Margiela Runway History - Fall 1990

Maison Martin Margiela runway show during Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 1990. We analyze every look in the collection to unpack the meaning behind the clothes of the most legendary Maison in modern history.
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Special thanks to the VANIITAS store for beautifully detailed imagery of vintage Margiela. Their site specializes in the sale of vintage avante-garde fashion: www.vaniitas.com/
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Bliss Foster is the name on my birth certificate.

[@victor.benitezzz8188]

This series the best thing to watch on KZbin

[@malarauko]

The increasing distance between Margiela's shows and the rest of Paris fashion week makes a nice metaphor for his confidence that everyone would eventually have to come to him, he wasn't going to compromise and move closer to anyone else. In fact he was going to keep moving out and they'd have even further to come to catch up.

[@BlissFoster]

Andrew Baker the first three continued to move farther out. This location was slightly closer than the third as the crow flies (idk about traffic and stuff tho). Your point still stands tho.

[@munkodynasty7865]

HIS ENERGY IS WHAT GIVES LIFE TO THAT PLANT.

[@giorgionattirainieri292]

The “ very 80s Chanel lady” is the legendary Anna Piaggi, a legend of fashion journalism.😵

[@charliespeak4687]

Literally just discovered this series and watched the first 3 episodes. Gutted there wasn’t anymore - subscribed with notifications. What a great day I’m having 🖖

[@BlissFoster]

Welcome!! Got a bit of a surprise coming in the next week with this series too. I’m glad you have motifs turned on 😊

[@malarauko]

I've done some digging and this wasn't just a normal post office it was a sort of rail freight office ran by the French national rail company so that probably explains the memorial plaque on the wall. Around 1,500 French rail workers were involved in sabotaging the rail system during WW2.

[@BlissFoster]

Andrew Baker I was wondering why they put such emphasis on it in the video. All that footage is official MMM footage. Why did they linger on it so long?

[@malarauko]

@@BlissFoster Well I might be reaching but possibly it's the expression of something very dramatic on such a sort of dull and almost tawdry way. Maybe it was just unexpected to find something like that there. Maybe it just caught the eye of the videographer aesthetically.

[@Youngcaptainharlock_]

Ahh this has become a ritual for me, get out of my morning class, go get an grande cold brew with almond milk and two pumps of vanilla, sit down and open my laptop to see that Bliss has uploaded yet another Margiela runway video.

[@tumppi723]

Ok

[@menoleya]

Ok

[@BlissFoster]

Thizzel Washington I’m glad you’re into it. I just saw the In His Own Words documentary so I’m so excited about this topic rn.

[@fchfye7620]

Bliss Foster where can I watch that? I‘ve been looking all over

[@aveOW2]

This series is incredible. Keep doing what you're doing, more and more people will find your channel and be sucked in (just as I was).

[@BlissFoster]

Thank you!! 😊 it definitely helps if people spread the word

[@sprainha]

the 80s Chanel lady you mention at 5:20 is Anna Piaggi... a cult figure who was predominantly a fashion editor of sorts for Italian Vogue and who was famed for her bright hair and OTT aesthetic and very influential in pushing new designers to the forefront

[@LuisCBaeza]

Yes, Anna was an extraordinaire lady. Sad that Bliss didn't know about her...

[@sprainha]

@@LuisCBaeza I used to collect old vogue Italia issues just for her collages etc . She was a true original

[@LuisCBaeza]

@@sprainha woow, that's amazing. Doppie Pagine still rocks. I remember being thrilled by her and that unique style.

[@sprainha]

@@LuisCBaeza 😊😊

[@gretagiannini2022]

I AM LIVING FOR THIS CONTENT! btw I saw the Margiela exhibition in Paris 2y ago and bought that book too, full of precious infos. I just wanted to add a curiosity about that cool punky sweater that Martin's mum did: instead of needles, she uses pieces of broomsticks, whittled down by the designer’s father, to produce an open, irregular stitch. With the assistance of few friends Margiela’s mum produced 40 such articles in 3 colors: sky-blue, madder rose, black. Love your channel xx

[@BlissFoster]

What an awesome detail! Thanks so much for sharing!

[@terrymcguinness9586]

Bliss has literally never missed

[@cleansingserum]

dude, the way youve made me learn how to analyze fashion shows, runway shows....is insane. thank you so so so much

[@iantrowell9123]

Another passionate and precise dissection - wow - thank you. I love the Fugazi-style "I'm not looking pen catch" The jacket at 22:30 is remarkably similar to Westwood's Eastwood jacket - a piece designed for the A/W 1984 collection (her first independent from McLaren). However, that jacket was based on a mad costume worn by Clint Eastwood (obv) in the 1976 film Outlaw Josey Wales...

[@samsonblue3444]

My favorite type of notification :)

[@eriklopezchannel]

lol this "chanel lady" her name is Anna Piaggi 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@BlissFoster]

Erik López nice! Who is she?

[@vestaglia]

@@BlissFoster Anna Piaggi was an italian journalist and writer,also had some pages on italian's Vogue, and was a big icon. like Suzy Menkes. the "Destroy" shirt of the guy, was a j. Richmond one.

[@BlissFoster]

Toni Uord thanks for the info on both! I love getting comments like this.

[@FSNJPS]

Never stop!! You're onto something amazing I love this seriessssssss

[@BlissFoster]

Thank you, I don’t think I could stop if I wanted to at this point. Please let someone know about the series. Nothing helps thing grow like word of mouth.

[@jmbaug1229]

Thank you ! Your videos about fashion are great !

[@shinichibaadkar79]

I love I loveeee how this guy is so real that he ads an addition clip shot at last minute to give us info. Damnn i might cry

[@xxxyxblkyth613]

best series on KZbin

[@wuxiang6654]

incredible job of you，thx for taking me to a margiela world

[@BlissFoster]

You’re just getting started! I’d love to hear more of what you think as you move thru the series 💫💫

[@kristianyumul]

favourite series on yt fr! hoping you continue this with other brands during the same era.

[@BlissFoster]

Definitely! I’d love to give the same treatment to UC, Rick, CDG, Viv, etc

[@radiobekot3821]

Made my day

[@user-eg8yc8ew2b]

really into this series its helping me learn more... also need to see that new In his own words doc

[@BlissFoster]

It’s so good. I’ll have a review coming soon

[@TheFrezrArts]

If these were 1h long i wouldnt mind at all.

[@BlissFoster]

They honestly probably would be if I could get input from the original design team and Martin. I know there’s holes in my info, it’s just all the info I’ve got :(

[@TheFrezrArts]

@@BlissFoster And we appreciate every single piece of it and you!

[@hornbeck]

fantastic

[@yohjicadoavocado8425]

That test shot on the models coat is so interesting too bc we saw with the Raf hero’s collection that Raf almost took that idea and ran with it, using bts photography of his diff models from over the years and put them on his ready to wear garments. Just another example of how margiela influenced menswear, consciously through Raf seeing this show and thinking that would be a cool piece to wear or unconsciously, inspiring future designers to play with the idea of the behind the scenes aspect of fashion and championing not just the designers but the models as part of the art of fashion

[@joshrocha2500]

Just discovered this channel and have been binging everything. Now I’m deep into this Margiela series and loving it. One thing that’s interesting to me is how people got so up in arms about Marc Jacobs showing grunge-lite in 93 for Perry Ellis when Margiela had been glorifying the beauty of cheap, re-used and everyday people clothing since 89. Do you think it’s because Perry Ellis was already this established brand and people thought that Marc Jacobs was bringing the brand down whereas Margiela came out of the gates as an avant garde grungey house without any airs of pretentiousness? Or do you think it was because Margiela was recontextualizing and deconstructing and in that way elevating used and cheap clothing? Maybe a mix of all of the above and other cultural elements that are hard to understand without being in the fashion industry and understanding the culture in the early 90s.

[@joshrocha2500]

I should also say that I know almost nothing about the fashion world other than what I’ve learned the past few weeks from watching this channel, so any thoughts here are very welcome. Really love learning about this stuff and didn’t realize how much I would be interested in it all before now.

[@dbao]

That shot of the white paint chipping off of the boots has me scouring the interwebs for another pair of the H&M x Margiela jeans, since I got rid of my original ones a while back..

[@kashkarti6]

🥺 missed this. ur amazing.

[@BlissFoster]

What do you mean? Missed what?

[@kashkarti6]

Bliss Foster lol this show. wish we could watch a new one everyday but that’s impossible!

[@Priveemarie1]

Strongly suggest you read Experimental fashion: performance art, carnival and the grotesque body by Francesca Granata. Two chapters are about Margiela, analyzing in great detail some of the collections. Some details I had never heard of about the collections and a very interesting focus on his work. It focuses on his work relating to Bakhtin theory of the grotesque body and carnival. A bit also about his focus on time and how it is related to the work of Derrida. Also includes a chapter about the 1997 S/S by Rei and another about Goergina Godley original Bumps and Lumps collection.

[@EdgeoftheBed]

sick day has just become 10X better

[@JOAOGabriel-tz8kg]

U r the best

[@0608jeffrey]

Amazing analysing as usual! On one note about the lining dress, lining could be made out of viscous, silk or even cotton. These fibres would become satin, for its comfortability as mentioned and its shininess, luxury. Viscous satin normally would be the choice on jackets, especially men’s jacket because it is more durable than silk. Then the dress shown would be even more interesting because it is borrowing the elements from men’s wear!

[@klarkolofsson]

I'm looking forward to your Zam Barrett video (pretty please).

[@BlissFoster]

Oh yes, it’s coming

[@jarib4799]

That pencil flip tho

[@BlissFoster]

Haha I forget that I even do them in these vids

[@PilarNarvaezalvarez]

Hello Bliss. I just discovered your channel and your Margiela videos are pure gold. Thanks a lot for this. The woman at 5'19" you talk about is the LEGENDARY Anna Piaggi en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anna_Piaggi

[@BlissFoster]

Thanks for the clarification, Pilar 😊 and Welcome!! Thank you also for the kind words 💫💫

[@mattbonanza9032]

Very 80's Chanel lady is Anna Piaggi, legendary Italian fashion journalist.

[@BlissFoster]

Thank you 💫💫

[@marvinraphaelmonfort8289]

Hate yellow lights too

[@malarauko]

Thoughts on the flood of models at the start, the street musicians playing at the side and the whole mood and setting off the show. There seems to be this trend in these shows of mundane normal settings, so maybe this is the attempt to create almost like a fashion show that just happens to be taking place in a completely normal setting. Like you're just at the post office then the people walking past you are all of a sudden models showing off a collection. Streetwear in a very pure iteration of literal the clothes people are wearing on the street

[@BlissFoster]

Andrew Baker yeah that’s a great interpretation. Any examples of other shows doing the mundane setting?

[@malarauko]

@@BlissFoster I'm sure there's plenty of other examples but vetements jumps to mind because I've watched fashion archives very good video on them recently

[@ursulastaempfli759]

Ein verkleideter Spießer bleibt ein verkleideter Spießer.

[@PilarNarvaezalvarez]

Hello again. No idea if it's related. The train station, the stamps of the models faces and the nazis remind me of this super amazing movie, 1966, Jiri Menzel: Closely Watched Trains. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Closely_Watched_Trains

[@BlissFoster]

Oh nice! Thank you!!

[@damangrewal5939]

Hi!!! Where can we watch full runaway clips or pictures ????

[@hello378]

The "boyfriend" looks like Dave Pirner

[@skatergamer4ever]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to recall that the mohair sweaters knitted by Margielas mother weren't actually torn but were distressed as af product of them being knitted with broken chair legs

[@BlissFoster]

Emil Bories Hüttel that’s a great piece of info! I haven’t heard anything about that. Do you remember the source?

[@skatergamer4ever]

@@BlissFoster It was incorporated in the sweater's description at the Palais Galliera's Margiela archive exhibition in Paris

[@ernestoh429]

I sent your channel to my discord fashion group

[@BlissFoster]

Nice! Which one?

[@ernestoh429]

Bliss Foster Archives Hypebeast

[@DeanEspresso]

Monday made

[@BlissFoster]

Definitely Tuesday, but thank you 😊

[@DeanEspresso]

Bliss Foster that’s how you know it’s been a rough week

[@dearabra1981]

man the very 80chanel lady is Anna Piaggi !!!!!

[@marvinraphaelmonfort8289]

Was just gonna say the boots did that to the skirts but then u interjected via editing =]

[@BlissFoster]

Haha yeah I realized that at like 2am 😂

[@ZipZaril]

B I G B O O T S

[@duncanlester3873]

La Cwaah...

[@codewithkate]

If the street performers were chosen to be at the show is it possible that the house wanted to continue to add the energy from their second show at the park?

[@BlissFoster]

Very possibly!

[@asor_airama]

your content is so nice, and MUCH MUCH MUCH appreciated, but when you keep insiting about following and sharing feels a bit heavy ):

[@marvinraphaelmonfort8289]

U just called anna piaggi a very 80's chanel lady lol maybe she did still wear chanel but the hat might be a funkier brand =]

[@BlissFoster]

Lol this is like the 30th comment identifying who that woman is. I’m apparently the only person alive who didn’t know who she was 😂

[@maryamnabavinejad4460]

when you say " This very 80s Chanel lady" , does it mean you don't recognize Anna Piaggi ?

[@pamelagrajeda2427]

wait aren't the cages under the skirts, just the boots under the skirt or am I just dumb?

[@pamelagrajeda2427]

haha nvm

[@claws811]

@@pamelagrajeda2427 lmao

[@ujeel2210]

1939-1945 is WW2, that would explain why they were killed I guess

[@BlissFoster]

Yeah but why did they include it so prominently?

[@sofiabailote]

"Very 80s Chanel lady" OMFG ...I just facepalmed so hard it might bruise! Seriously, you're doing a fashion history series and you don't know who Anna Piaggi is??

[@BlissFoster]

I certainly do now! Thanks for the info :)

[@ken2ema]

Mason margiela showing the process of his creation can easily be used as a form of laziness???

[@maverickbull1909]

why are you yelling...