Ever After #2: Making the satin underskirt & learning to dye fabric (shockingly, I didn’t ruin it)

[@janeteholmes]

Just FYI, the MM, or mm doesn’t stand for millimetres, it stands for “momme” which is a measure of the weight of the fabric. 20 momme is a nice light but opaque silk and 8-13 momme is generally silk chiffon. 40 momme would be pretty stiff, probably good for a structured wedding dress. Perfection is an illusion sent by the devil to ruin lives. Give my love to the chooks! (Aussie dialect for chickens)

[@angelbear_og]

"Perfection is an illusion sent by the devil to ruin lives" (I'm definitely putting that on a t-shirt!)

[@wendymalik6784]

I like when sewists show struggles. Then I know I’m not alone. 😊

[@lorettoponton7218]

x2

[@angelbear_og]

I like it because I haven't done much sewing, but I WANT to, but it's intimidating! I like when they show their mistakes, and especially when they show either how to correct it , or just be OK with it! Been bingeing videos and getting inspired!

[@lforsey1899]

Honestly, after frustration-quitting on my sewing project for the night, it's comforting to sit down to watch your video and be reminded that experienced, professional sewers make mistakes too.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Thanks for leaving in all your "teaching moments". Struggling is how we learn, I guess. I've learned lots :P Thanks for the reminder about dye collecting like that when things don't dry all at the same time, I've had it happen before too but I'd forgotten. Two steps forward, one step back has yielded me a lot of learning opportunities and a good number of wearable mockups. And highlighted, underlined and circled notes on my patterns, "Do X next time!!"

[@marissabulso6439]

As a fellow perfectionist, I feeeeeel your pain. But it is so good to see someone else with those tendencies show the full process. Including all the snags and problems and frustrations helps me feel like I can move forward with a challenging project, too. ❤

[@sweetalissum]

I really felt your struggle here as a fellow hobbyist in balancing trying to be a perfectionist and remember it's just for fun. I do have to say, as much as I admire a lot of the well known historical or accuracy interested sewing channels like your referenced here, I don't think it serve us being intimidated and thinking you have to mimic all their methods exactly. Finding your own way, using cheaper, more readily available materials, like Rit dyes vs the more expensive powdered acid dyes, is not a failure! Anyway I'm really excited to see how your final product turns out. This is such a beautiful dress already and I'm sure your version will be uniquely lovely.

[@briefisbest]

Ahhh, now I understand! "Optical" white is like toned blonde hair: they add blue or purple dyes to make it appear more white instead of yellow.

[@akaneak]

Mariah, I love you! You are one of the most perfectionist and relatable seamstress out there! I love that you show the good, the bad and the cost! and then the wearing experience! At this point, i'm addicted to your videos

[@Blackbubble90]

About that problem with measuring the very small amounts of dye for the test runs: I have never worked with fabric dye but in various laboratories and whenever you would need to use a volume or weight that is too low to measure it correctly, you do a pre-dilution. So say your calculations say you need 1 mg of that dye but you don't have analytics scales, you put for example 1 g in 1 Liter of water, and that use 1 ml of that diluted dye. Works also with several dilutions steps like putting it in 100 ml of water, taking 10 ml of that und than adding 90 ml of fresh water to the 10 ml and so on. It's just some simple math and works arguably better in metric.

[@marthabenner6528]

This is how I gave my turkeys their medicine.

[@Nquerojantarsozinho]

One thing that actually makes the bias cut being naturally narrow at the waist is that gentle pull up in the front, that causes the side seams drag to the front slightly, causing that slimmer effect. Also, about the side seams on the skirt, as someone who deal with silk satin everyday, yeah, you're figured out the most painful way that mixing cuts just not behave on that kind of fabric, the ideal was always sew them in the most equal alignment possible, if not, you already said: leave them hanging, then sew it, although i must say i'm afraid the bias will work his way to drape over the seam with time, so it's better conservate this skirt folded to prevent damage. Love your videos, it's gonna look beautiful and so far so good, every dress has his histories

[@mialemon6186]

Mood sends me these rather large swatches which is how I knew when duchess satin was mentioned, it was gonna get real bad. Very grateful for that knowledge! 😭😭 I would actually cry if I spent so much and it wouldn't work. I'm grateful the mistake was added to the video though. Makes me feel less alone.

[@liv97497]

I have the same struggle of wanting every single thing to be just as I envisioned but knowing with absolute certainty that it's simply not realistic. I do think sometimes we have to just let go, but I don't think it's an exaggeration to redo things, even if it means you have to do a lot of the same work again. Thinking of it not as time wasted, but time spent learning is how my brain copes with it. It works most of the time. Personally, I think the slight unevenness of the dye (which is not even visible on camera) will not be a problem at all and won't really show even in the front, so I wouldn't even consider buying more fabric. I think yours was the right call there. But I think if it were me, I would take the skirt apart and trim the pieces, like you said. I knew it was bound to happen when you explained how you were going to match the seams, because the same thing happened to me🤡 lucky for me, mine was only an underskirt, and I had two layers of crepe chiffon on top, so I only had to fix the hem. A dress as incredible as this is bound to have some trials and tribulations! But it will all be worth it in the end. (AND a huge learning experience, too!)

[@vfrances5159]

I am so glad you did the fixes before attempting a thousand French knots!!

[@crystilmurch5659]

You have learned so much from this project. Some day, there will be funds enough to go back and fix whatever you didn't like. By then, maybe you will have outgrown it or maybe you will still wish to do it. Either way, yes, it has been an expensive project to learn on but the knowledge is likely going to be worth the price in your future. It being a dream project is the thing that is so hard. You will find a way to be okay with it. Also, small pieces of the project in videos are fine. There is no reason to stress over finishing a whole part of the project for each video. Just the dying part would have been enough. The sewing and etc part could have been a separate video. We are here for the journey with you. Don't drive yourself mad. We will stick around to see the results. :)

[@thirza9508]

What you said about feeling like to make this dress you have to make it twice is so relatable! I almost always end up doing a project twice because I too am a perfectionist. The thing is: I pretty much only sew with thrift store fabric and don't have deadlines, so that makes it much easier on me mentally.

[@kida4star]

I’m so sorry you are frustrated, but as a beginning sewer, I appreciate knowing I’m not the only one who gets mostly through a project and is like, nope, not working, GAAAAAAA! Looking forward to the next video

[@DipityS]

It's absolutely not a down! I feel scared every time I see you cut anything and the dyeing process almost did me in I was so anxious. But you just went ahead and tried and did it and that's bloody amazing - and I think it's extremely valuable that you shared the learning process. Thank you so much!

[@cherylrosbak4092]

For the record, Dharma Trading also has silk crepe back satin for a decent price. They even have the silver grey.

[@MariahPattie]

I did order a couple samples from them but they were way too thin

[@cherylrosbak4092]

@@MariahPattie Ah, good to know.

[@mikkib7921]

the perfectionist urge to make something twice is my CONSTANT mood when it comes to cosplay and sewing. I've only completely remade two cosplays in my life I think, but I find myself wanting to completely start over using everything new I've learned on a project almost every time. It's very annoying as a perfectionist, but I guess it's good because it means you're pushing yourself and growing your skills! Steep learning curves suck, but do come with, well, a lot of learning. I have to constantly remind myself this is a good thing, especially when I'm crying over my bank account haha.

[@leigh2e200]

This is the chaos portion of creating. You will get there. I'm loving watching this come together.

[@mable552]

I think this us how we get better and proficient at our crafts..by making mistakes and learning from them. Explaining your thought process and the results and what you would do next time is invaluable information for your viewers. Can't wait to see the next video!

[@bloomfieldartsacademyatsac4033]

It is a learning curve. But how much joy will you have when you figure it all out; and your results will be amazing

[@Rotten_Ralph]

It’s complicated. This is a dream project. Do what makes your heart happy. That’s all I can say. ❤😂

[@jackieraulerson2005]

Don’t be frustrated!! You’ll figure this out. It’s enjoyable to watch you learn.

[@fafnyrslair]

I really do appreciate that you include videos like this. My sewing goes like this sometimes. I love that you don't only show easy and successful. Hope the next part goes much more smoothly.

[@MegMarchSews61]

Don't give up Mariah! I know you can do it, I'm so excited to see this dress come to life outside of the movie.

[@makeda6530]

Ah, I wanna hug you. I know you’ll persevere but give yourself some grace, we believe in you.

[@elisabethreeves1786]

Thank you! You are not alone in your perfectionism 💚 Keep going! Find what you love.

[@coreygilles847]

My perfectionist is always urging me to go crazy with redoing projects

[@taylorr.s8082]

Please do channel memberships. I don't do patrion and would love to support your projects. This is such an awesome project!

[@jaimie-leedesigns4310]

You could look into doing 1/2 scale dressforms/patterns.. you can get a chance to play around with the expensive fabrics and learn its quirks before going in for full form creations. Might save you some time worry and money also..

[@tammyellison735]

After 50 years of sewing I still struggle some days but I know I learn more from my mistakes than my successes.

[@mcomeslast]

Yes, I make mock-ups. Saves me money and aggravation. I’m learning to make a blouse at the moment but I have a vintage Chanel suit set on my list and I’m working on increasing my skills to match the project. By the time I buy the expensive dream fabric, I should have made the jacket at least 3 times, at least once with the skirt and maybe 5 or 6 times with the blouse (starting with cotton, then shirting and moving to lawn, rayon, and finally silk). I’m on a fixed income so I freak out less messing up muslin than I would my dream fabric. I know Angela Wolf has a pattern review class on dying silk, if that helps.

[@juliemeanor6531]

Yellow streaks could have been from the wooden drying rack. Wood can discolor fabric.

[@alexiscarlton1355]

The journey can be difficult but you've learnt so much. Keep sharing your story, it's lovely to watch and see the progress, whatever that may be :D.

[@tarabound]

wow, this is a roller coaster, i can't wait to see the next episode. Sorry it has been such a problem for you. I wish you success.

[@spiritussancto]

for what it's worth, i often get better results dying the finished garment rather than the initial fabric but that does depend on your project. think your cunning plan all the way through

[@maly_dinosaurik]

thank you for sharing the process, I think it's important to see the struggles, too, not only the satisfying result :) as a hobby sewist and costume maker I relate oh so much to how you feel. I have never worked with silk satin because I'm afraid to ruin the expensive fabric so kudos to you for even trying it :)

[@winterinbloom]

I can hear the frustration in your voice. I know that mistakes are so discouraging, and nothing said right now is really going to make it feel better, but you are a talented person who is learning so much from this. You are going to come out on the other side with a wealth of knowledge that will make your next projects even more amazing than anything we've seen from you yet. And this project is going to be incredible too. I think in this case, just judging from the disappointment I see in your eyes, it might be best to go ahead and let that little perfectionism bug win this time, and redo the skirt. It's just my opinion and you should completely ignore me if the stress of a redo is too much, but I think you'll be happier with it done the way you really want it. I think you should take a day first though to relax and think it through. The cotton batting instead of the polyester is a good idea. I wouldn't have thought the polyester was too thick at first either, but side by side with the picture of the original dress it does look more pillowy.

[@bonniehyden962]

This is all a process of learning which, while frustrating, can never be a waste. It's doubly beneficial because you share your learning process with us! AND...as an added bonus...from reading the comments I see the possibility of making new community connections. I'm not a perfectionist but my BFF is...on a GRAND scale. I'm the one to whom she vents when her sewing projects turn into learning opportunities. 😉 I also have been gifted with the skill of digging for that silver lining in less than optimum situations. LOL...or, as my husband more simply calls it: "digging through that pile of 💩 looking for the pony". Take a breath. Pet a chicken. Sip a cup of ☕. Ponder on all the knowledge you have now that you didn't have before ...and be thankful. You know from experience that you will get through this...it will be beautiful...and you will be armed with knowledge & skills that could open up projects previously unthinkable before! ...and maybe so will many others who watch. 🤔 You're doing great! Thank you for sharing your journey with us! ❤️

[@ChelseaSteeb]

I'm always so happy you're sharing the woes of sewing :) it's the thought process I'm coming to these videos for, not a smash hit costume every video :) no pressure! Love it!

[@emilyrln]

It's so neat to see the whole process, snags and all! I would definitely redo those side seams bias-to-bias, and see if the pockets behave better when the drape is consistent. If not, you can always make a matching wrist bag for necessities. So excited to see what comes next!

[@indiabilly]

It’s really helpful and instructive to see you problem solve, I learned so much-thank you for showing us xx

[@susancheveralllong7694]

Go big or go home... You are learning and practice makes perfect. This project is the stretch you need. It's unbelievably rewarding to watch. Keep going you star 👍😉👍

[@philurbaniak1811]

👍👍I feel that frustration, good for you for taking breaks and getting back to it 👍!

[@therese565]

I really appreciate your transparency about this process and relate to your struggle with perfectionism. Thank you!

[@gaylabadillo5015]

I always look forward to your videos. I have been sewing off and on longer than you have been alive but I learn more from your videos than from anyone's. Probably because you do show your mistakes and because you keep things interesting and real.

[@iamtheonewhocares]

Take a break of you need! Thank you for sharing your struggles!

[@dorota1504]

Crepe de Chine is not the same as Crepe Back Satin, unfortunately. Crepe the Chine has a slight texture to it and is very delicate and see-through. That's why there is a difference of price. I would say CdC is a bit like thicker organza and it doesn't have the shine of satin. I learned that while looking for fabric for my Atonement dress. CdC is also a bit more faded when it comes to the vibrancy of colours. You definitely made the right choice with your fabric. It still amazes me that you picked up such a complicated project. Can't wait to see how will you tackle the embroidery on organza. Good luck!

[@thegriffinwithin]

Hey its a process. Great video.

[@RockinTheBassGuitar]

I think we all have some project(s) that just keep going awry. This is still beautiful and I can't wait to see how it turns out in the end.

[@jenniefowler4968]

I'm watching you make this dress because I want to make it too. I have a pattern I'm using for it. It is very close

[@ValerieSaubrement]

I feel so much better about my Renaissance Gown I am currently working on that has so many fails to it! Thank you for sharing. Also, your work is amazing, keep it going I cannot wait to see the next video about your project!

[@janicemcalisterdouglas7351]

I appreciate you for sharing your journey in figuring out how this dress is constructed. I find what you are doing very informative as I embark on my own sewing journey.

[@molinattiaudrey]

Wow i spend the year doing the zardosi trims and everything but i didn't realize all this questions, thanks a lot for this

[@MariahPattie]

“Zardosi”?

[@molinattiaudrey]

@@MariahPattie it s the flower bullion trim around the neckline and on the sleves, it's more a technique name than the render i guess ^^'

[@MariahPattie]

Great, I’ve never heard it so I’ll look that up

[@lorettoponton7218]

I actually feel bad for you because it didn't end up as you were hoping for but at the same time apreciate that you showed us the failed atempt because that makes it more real and makes me feel a little less of a failure with the stuff I trie not turning out at the first try, thank you for showing us that part of the process

[@LeoFieTv]

I must say that it is reassuring to see someone as prolific as you screw up. Sorry, I guess?! But it does make me feel better about the projects I have ruined as a beginner. I hope you find something else to make out of that silver duchess satin, so it might still be useful somewhere else. Could always be a quilt.

[@sandiemable]

Take some time away from this project; a couple of weeks should do. Then take the entire dress apart, and start over. I am not a sewist, but I know not to use poly batting, never on clothing. I am a knitter, and I cannot tell you how many times I had to rip back my work and start over. I noticed you kept saying, perfectionist, no one, and nothing is perfect. Using this term to describe yourself will hold you up and stress you so much that it will keep you from being able to move forward. Your perfection might not meet my standards of perfection, and mine will not meet those of someone else. I think the real meaning of perfection is doing our very best work. When we allow ourselves the time to do our best work, the result is OUR perfection. It's achieving this that makes us feel joy and to be proud of our work. You create amazingly beautiful clothing, and I truly enjoy watching you. Ripping out and re-sewing is part of the process. xoxo's Sandie

[@inkwingart]

This video is a few months old so I’m not sure this matters anymore, but crepe de chine is not a satin fabric, it’s an eggshell-textured semi-matte silk and generally quite sheer. Crepe-back satin refers to charmeuse. Silkbaron carries a decent charmeuse that is heavier than the dharma silk and much more affordable than nyc designer fabrics. The shade “travertine” might be what you were looking for, if you ever decide to attempt a remake!

[@jessicav2031]

Wow, you only have to do things twice? That's great! I'm used to having to do each thing at least 3 times, often 4 times :) The first thing I ever tried dyeing was supposed to be dark gray, and it actually came out the color of vomit. Sometimes I think to get anything done just requires one to be more stubborn than reasonable.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

"More stubborn than reasonable" ...that'd be a great tshirt for my husband. Mine is "Bad Example."

[@account01289]

That has happened to me with so many projects it's frustrating lol I feel your pain XXx

[@lesleyharris525]

Hi, thanks for sharing the struggles you had with the under dress, but when you try again it will be fabulous. 💝

[@wynnewhitten-holmes5090]

That's got to be frustrating, but it's okay that it can't be wrapped up in a neat bow every time. Learning new skills is like that; real life is like that!

[@ElderberrySprout]

Thank you so much for sharing your thought process about this project! Just know as long as you are sharing the process, the financial investment of a failure is not a failure, It is just you teaching all of us! So thank you for the awesome lessons!

[@juliathelittle7007]

I sewing motto is "never let perfect be the enemy of good and done." often it is just "never let perfect be the enemy of done."

[@chelseafarnsworth119]

do it again! do it how you like. It's your dream project! Don't let too much slide or you won't be happy!

[@ReinaElizondo]

Is this a bad time to mention RIT dye remover? I don't know if it would just create more things to troubleshoot though and would turn into several more washes for your silk using it and re-dyeing. That being said the color looks lovely though, and the difference isn't noticeable on camera. I've never dyed that much silk at once because of the crowding issue you mentioned; good save in the bathtub. For flowy skirts I like the Victorian envelope-shaped pockets, they hang nicer when the skirt isn't held against the body as much. (Off-topic but they're also duel direction, so you can use in a skirt that can be front/back reversible.) Bias is still one of those deeper-than-expected subjects I'm still figuring out more than the basics on, so this is interesting. Sorry about the rippling. I do like ruching though so it could be a feature if you weren't working off an original reference. I wonder if the slippery-ness of the fibers also account for the large bias stretch and probably the satin weave does.

[@jaspersgrimoire]

Perfect is the enemy of complete with the dye, but I would definitely nix those seams and put bias to bias- putting bias to straight grain in a context where you’re trying to take advantage of the properties of cutting it on the bias… just took away all those nice properties of cutting it on the bias to begin with. If it makes you feel better, I also had to take out some pockets recently- but I had to take off the buttons and undo waistband facings to do so.

[@joanramsey4002]

Love your videos, keep going, you can do it!

[@MsHedgehog]

I wonder if they did not use a modified edwardian fantail skirt pattern for the underskirt. Those skim the hips thigthly in the front and I think you could keep that effect with the waistband raised or extended. The waistbands of those skirts could be pretty wide. The the actual 'tail' aspect might help with the train part.

[@marcco44]

like Drew Barrymore says in the movie---"just breathe"🙂

[@ClearlyPixelated]

Your cute forest print blouse though! Where is it from?!

[@花乃きのこ]

Don’t dye fabric in pots/with utensils that you use to prepare food! If you are still using those pots and that spoon, I recommend you put them with your sewing stash so you don’t accidentally prepare food with them again. You don’t want to be consuming acid dyes or mordants.

[@KaatiKoo]

When i have to stitch straight and non straight grain, i baste it in hanging position.

[@theoffkeydiva]

If you really don’t like the streaks you can try dye remover and then restart the dying process

[@IonIsFalling7217]

I LOVE your shirt!

[@MariahPattie]

It’s a dress from a few videos back 😄

[@IonIsFalling7217]

@@MariahPattie It got recommended afterwards and it’s stunning!

[@grimnirnacht]

sometimes the best lessons are learned from the worst mistakes. you'll get there :)

[@cls3282]

Joining your Patreon to hopefully help out and let you make the dress you want to make. I'm so sorry it didn't turn out the way you wanted, but I hope you persevere! I love this dress so much and can't wait to see it finished!

[@newcreature222]

I appreciate your hard work I’m sorry to hear that this dream dress is giving you problems but it will be so worth it in the end “just breath” I hope this helps, it commendable that you are tackling this gown it really is a seamstress dream dress 😉👏👌

[@nixhixx]

I've never heard anyone pronounce Duchess that way. I'm fairly sure it's pronounced the same way as the noble rank, the feminine form of a Duke, or his wife.

[@nataliejones6626]

You are correct, Mariah pronounced it wrong in the video. She probably has never heard duchess satin said before; just read on the internet and did not see the correlation between the name of the fabric and the royal title. It happens, especially more and more as people have less in person interaction and more online interaction. I hear content creators mispronounce words all the time.

[@cynthiadugan858]

Giant hugs coming your way!

[@ethe7119]

Whoo! That is a costly oops 😅 You are so amazing, just love everything about your content and sheer talent!P.S. I love the shirt you’re wearing!! 😍

[@LachlanKipp6669]

Hi Mariah! I'm a fan of your worldbuilding channel and was wondering where you went. Will you every work on a world building video again or are you scraping the channel?

[@MariahPattie]

Not scrapping it, but I have given up on it being any kind of a business. It takes me a full 40 hr work week to produce a video that might make $50, so worldbuilding will need to stay a hobby. I’ll get back to it when I have enough time for it again.

[@marthabenner6528]

I would take it apart. It's disheartening, but there's a difference between compounding and mistake and settling with a fabric you're stuck with.

[@cenedra20]

Currently sewing a dress that I thought would be simple to sew. Made straps for a belt, sewed too narrow to flip and had to start again. After cutting the skirt, i found i didn't have enough fabric and had to add a different fabric. The fabric I chose is white and see through, so I had to add some trims and lace to cover it. Why is sewing like this😂😭

[@TheSerialHobbyistGirl]

Crepe de chine is not the same as crepe back satin. Crepe de chine is very, very light.

[@MariahPattie]

Hm. Maybe I didn’t waste as much as I thought.

[@savannahbrewer6161]

flat lining is your friend

[@wyogrl11]

Take it apart and redo it. You won’t regret it once it’s done. (Hang in there - this is just a part of the process.)

[@LauriesPlace999]

Stick with it, you will do it justice I’m sure

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Darn you really need to beat your protectionist tendencies back! It’s really hard to do but you will be much happier with yourself if you do! Everything looks lovely! Remember we are looking at the overall project not the little things that to you are highlighted in neon with large arrows pointing at! Be nice to yourself it’s going to be wonderful!!

[@sannabengtsson3044]

Don't be yourself up the come and go fine

[@aleciab83]

If you can afford it (financially) then go all out and start completely over. Find that perfect fabric and start from there. Don’t worry about if you really “should” buy more fabric…if you can then you definitely should. Don’t put all this effort and creativity into an item that you don’t love. You’ll never be happy with it and it will end up deep in a closet where it will never see the light of day…not even for a cos-play event. You know you like things a certain way so make them that way. Don’t settle if you don’t have to. I hope what I’m trying to say makes sense…I’m tired and may just be rambling nonsense.

[@marthabenner6528]

This must be the reason they make to scale miniatures.

[@dionicia12]

Maybe stop here and focus on a mockup with similar drape fabric? Keep at it. You're doing great.

[@laurenloertscher1319]

Oh boy. Good luck 😬

[@nancymcdade3909]

Instead of settling for a fabric that wasn't the best option why didn't you just keep searching for the right fabric? In this age of internet searches at your fingertips I'm positive you could have found a better, more affordable fabric.