Fixing a Panasonic 3DO FZ-1 With a 3D Printed Gear - Common Cog Problem!

[@einherrjar]

so much innuendo, i wasn't ready for this. that lubed shaft though... loved every inch of it.

[@MarkFixesStuff]

It’s one of the bigger parts...

[@Coopertom]

Thank you so much for posting this video. My 3DO stopped reading discs about 13 years ago and I just put it away in storage and forgot about it. I found your video the other day and this was exactly the problem. Bought a new gear on eBay and my 3DO is working good as new!

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Fantastic!! Thank you for letting me know!

[@emerickscott]

can you point me to that gear seller? or @Markfixesstuff does your friend sell them? I don't have a 3D printer. Thanks!

[@bsg1138]

This tutorial helped me make the repair. Many thanks!

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Great to hear!

[@Danechip]

6:19 " The shaft doesn't even touch the sides, It's like a sausage in a bucket " FML...

[@ncot_tech]

“Sausage in a bucket” is a new one to me. “Biro in the Eurotunnel” is the favourite around here... Don’t use too much lube though, it can attract dust and make the shaft all sticky, causing problems with maintaining a solid ejection.

[@PantherUK]

From lubing your shaft and the pink bits to playing with your lizard, what a Sunday... Great vid mate...

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Thanks mate.

[@kirbyyasha]

This fix will also work with Matsushita/Panasonic CD-ROM's, specificially the CR-563 - Basically same CD-ROM except the mainboard and a few minor differences to use in the 3DO. Not surprised honestly, but thanks to this video, I saw it was 100% the same, and was able to buy the part to fix my PC CD-ROM.

[@restorethis7588]

I have an IBM PS/1 Consultant with a Matsushita CR-563 that shows up as a drive, but will not read discs. It begins to spin for a bit, but stops and then gives an error. Was your experience like this?

[@kirbyyasha]

@@restorethis7588 mine didnt read discs, as the laser couldnt move. So best thing to do is take it apart and see if the laser assembly moves at all. Also checking the gear too.

[@restorethis7588]

Sounds daunting, but I have no choice! Thanks. @@kirbyyasha

[@SianaGearz]

Polyamide gear is tough and durable due to water, it is conditioned after demoulding with a few percent absorbed water by weight. In this state, it's pretty tough and silent and pretty much impossible to scratch or crack. As it ages, it loses water, it simply evaporates gradually, which is at first helpful, as it allows it to grip around the shaft tighter. But as it continues to age, it continues shrinking and becoming more brittle, so the shaft will inevitably cause it to shatter. If you have polyamide gears and they're still healthy after 15-20 years, you can leave them in a humid environment for a while (i.e. a ziplock back with half a teaspoon of water in it) for a week and they should be restored to factory condition and prevent them from cracking later. My personal favourite is to first glue together the original gear and restore whatever missing bits it has from say CA glue and soda and filing down the excess, then knead some two-part silicone, and press the gear into it - this makes a mould. Then i just pour two part epoxy into that and create a nice exact copy, and i throw the mould with epoxy on the heatbed of my 3D printer at about 60-80°C to achieve higher toughness and make it cure faster. When using 1:1 epoxy, you can vary the composition to achieve different properties, you have about 15-20% leeway by volume. Using less 'hardener' will make for a more brittle, harder surface, more temperature and chemically resilient casting. Using more 'hardener' will make for a tougher, softer casting, that is likely more similar to original PA gear. The secret is that the real hardener is a very small amount compared to resin, so they bulk up the 'hardener' part with plastifier. When you don't have exactly 1:1 mixture, hot curing the epoxy is highly advised, as the resin can be somewhat reluctant to crosslink without extra heat encouragement. I have used this method to restore various highly intricate plastic mechanisms, ones that i wouldn't ever dare printing anywhere near successfully. Besides saves quite a bit of time in CAD. And also you don't need a 3D printer, though you may need a hair dryer and a good bit of patience to kick off the curing otherwise. With printed gears, i find that PETG is pretty nice, low friction, low noise, tough, somewhat temperature resilient. But PLA also works. There have been several severe cases of allergy caused by uncured epoxy, so please don't just wipe it off with an ungloved finger. It's rare but can be pretty dangerous, avoidable and unnecessary risk.

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Siana Gearz thanks for this amazing information. Really interesting stuff and lots for me to look into! Thanks 😊

[@SianaGearz]

@@MarkFixesStuff Oh the silicone i happen to have and use for this is called "Glorex HobbyTime Silikon Knetmasse für Formbau" and it came in an 80g (2x40g) package and it was kind of expensive but i saw it at an art supplies store years ago and just couldn't resist buying. Luckily i never made anything bigger than these kinds of gears so it has been plenty :D It's probably actually quite overpriced for what it is. Similarly i always use UHU epoxies, Endfest (previously called the 300) and Schnellfest, it depends, because i'm kind of very used to their behaviour and have learned to trust them, so i'm not very inclined to switch to anything else. I think 300 is amazing and flat out beats any thermoplastic on properties you can achieve with it.

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Siana Gearz think I’ll have to try some of that. I do need to find a higher quality epoxy

[@mistermatix8241]

I hate it when you get a blob of goo on the end of your shaft, leads to all sorts of trouble! Just joshing! Very interesting video, as usual, Mark. I too have a Panasonic FZ1 3DO, I've done some repairs, and your videos really helped me out. It's always good to get stuff from you. I may open up my 3DO and take a look at that gear myself now (mine sometimes makes a grinding noise when loading discs). You make repairing these systems fun.

[@mistermatix8241]

My FZ1 is also intermittent with discs, some won't play, some will, some that have played before won't. Could that be laser pot adjustment, or ribbon cable?

[@fueledbyregret]

At first I was 3DOhNo, but you had me at stripping and shaft lubing.

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Yeah. 3DO is not the greatest system... thanks for watching mate!

[@P5ychoFox]

Great fix and great entertainment as usual. Makes me want to lube up my own 3DO’s shaft.

[@overhillmaster]

Thanks for fixing my 3DO :)

[@therushden]

Carry On... Mark Fixes Stuff. 😂 Great stuff 👍

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@chrislikeslotsothing]

Great video. Have a Betamax player with a similar gear issue. Good to know that 3D printed options can work.

[@Kumimono]

Hmm, I've been designing and testing a replacement PLA gear for a cassette deck, being somewhat dubious about accuracy of the finished, movement, I suppose. But, if a CD drive worm gear can be accurate enough.... Interesting video, nice fix. :)

[@MarkFixesStuff]

I think it should be fine. Plenty of lube though.

[@TheJackelantern]

"We are going in dry" - Mark Fixes Stuff

[@ascorpion2002]

Just came across this video and wishing this 3DO I have could be fixed. I found it while cleaning out an old house. Has no controller...only the RCA cables and of course the power supply. Since I dont have any games for it, its difficult to properly test it. I know it comes on because the power button doesn't work, so only way to power it off is to unplug the power supply.

[@croche382]

Had some luck after krazy gluing the orignal worm gear to the rod, however it only worked for about 30 seconds. Do you think this would be the problem? if so, does the creator of these have a place that I can buy some? I have no ability to 3d print at this time

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Yeah, I tried that as well. No glue can keep it in place because the nylon material has shrunk. I do see them for sale on ebay occasionally. EDIT: Here is one of the listings on ebay. Feedback seems good but I didn't try it. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305058377183 (I guess you are in the US if you used Krazy Glue?)

[@andychicago8295]

Great manual! Thanks for that! Do you sell one, or maybe three of these gears? Because I have the same problem with two of my 3DOs. And a happy new year!:)

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Hi Andy! I don't provide these, but the file is available on Thingiverse for free and you can order some prints. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2852461

[@libra83player12]

Muito bom!!! parabéns pelo trabalho amigo!!!!! Very Nice!!!!congrugation off work my brother!!!!

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Obrigado e obrigado por ver meu vídeo!

[@davidretrogamesplayedbadly3533]

It's like a sausage in a bucket 😆😆😆😆😆😆😆, Nice fix matey 👍

[@SteDubya]

Very nicely done 👍

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Stedubya Thanks Ste!

[@justinlangreck5722]

Hey I'm doing the same repair and I've had two different problems arise, the first being the gear doesn't go as far into the end of the groved metal as yours did in the video, is that a big problem? And the second being the rails not spinning the laser very well and barley moving up and down

[@MarkFixesStuff]

the important thing is that the gear teeth mate correctly. Does the motor turn OK with the rod out? It could be rusted inside.

[@justinlangreck5722]

I think I just put it in wrong, took it apart and put back together and it worked fine lol

[@MarkFixesStuff]

@@justinlangreck5722 Thank goodness. I was wracking my tiny brain trying to figure out why it wouldn't work!

[@justinlangreck5722]

Thanks again for the help, no way I could have put it together right without this video lol

[@frankowalker4662]

It's too early for all this smut. I'm sending Mary Whitehouse to see you. :)

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Half these things people are flagging up are not even intentional. I’m some kind of savant.

[@frankowalker4662]

@@MarkFixesStuff LOL.

[@bluetonic9538]

all the innuendo 🤣👍

[@anthonyaviles8665]

How can I get a few of those gears and has he made the hole smaller so it would press fit next time

[@MarkFixesStuff]

The guy has remodelled the cog but has been unwell of late. It turns out that there are a couple of cogs on thingiverse that I've not tried. Have you looked on there?

[@joshpayne4015]

With so much play between the rod and the new cog, how did you make sure the metal rod was centered within the new epoxied-in cog and not lopsided?

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Josh Payne the cog is held in place by the locating screw in the motor housing.

[@SianaGearz]

I think the gear just pulled itself to the centre with epoxy surface tension and viscosity. I.e. luck.

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Josh Payne ah, sorry. Misread this. I checked it when the resin was setting. If it had been off centre I would have aligned it whilst the resin was semisolid. No need this time though. New gears will be a push fit hopefully.

[@howdoesgame8879]

3:10 Does anyone know the values for these two resistors? Mine have burnt out and I’d really like to replace them to get my drive working again

[@TheEPROM9]

I have a 3D printer now, so I can create my own gears =-) A gaping hole means he has seen to much action.

[@krull1981]

Was the Road Rash music Rusty Cage by Soungarden ?

[@MarkFixesStuff]

krull1981 yes! It was!!!

[@semarugaijin9451]

are you the same guy from Retro Man Cave?

[@MarkFixesStuff]

I have been on RMC a few times, yes.

[@SparksNZeros]

any chance your friend could make us one of those gears too?

[@MarkFixesStuff]

We are working on a revised fit version that shouldn't need to be glued on hopefully. Watch this space.

[@emerickscott]

@@MarkFixesStuff did this ever happen? I need one :)

[@MarkFixesStuff]

@@emerickscott I’ve made some in resin since and they seem to be even better. Resin Printing TINY gears. Will they Work? New Elegoo Mars 3 Printer! kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6XHkH97e89qmaM

[@three3fitty573]

Thank you for posting this, didn’t know people were printing out replacements. I just recently got a 3DO and found the broken drive gear as an issue. Currently waiting for my replacement to come in the mail.

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Glad I could help!

[@alanhammerton]

Thank god you didnt mix up the lube with the araldite

[@ultimateman55]

My Japanese 3DO just stopped working and, based on the symptoms, I suspect I might have a similar problem. I'd love to slip my shaft into such a gear, but I'm not sure where to find one. Any chance your friend can provide a printable file or some specifications? Thanks! Edit: Found a couple files on Thingiverse that might work. For anyone else looking for the links: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2852461 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2799915 My guess is the first link is what I'll need.

[@antonyd5976]

gex doesn't sound right without leslie phillips...

[@MarkFixesStuff]

"Hell..ooooo"

[@Nukle0n]

Your videos are great but you could stand to cut down on the innuendos lol, it's a bit much,.

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Nukleon Most of the time I’m not intending them. I think my viewers seek to find meaning where none is intended. When you have to say shaft etc it’s an open invite. As long as they’re happy.

[@coryengel]

Mark Fixes Stuff I’m not buying it! :)

[@MarkFixesStuff]

I’ll double check the next one to see if I can stop any double entendres before recording. Problem is that they often slip in unnoticed.

[@wimwiddershins]

Ooh Mark, you are terrible.

[@MarkFixesStuff]

That’s what she said.

[@coryengel]

I’ve been subscribed for a while, I can’t take any more of the innuendo. I’m out.

[@MarkFixesStuff]

Sorry to hear that Corey. Thank you so much for all the support you’ve given me up to now and I genuinely wish you well the best.