⚓️ NOMAD - How to use copper rivets

[@gravelcreekfarms3850]

It’s nice that you included the bit on how to fix the misplaced blows part

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Avoiding damage to the surrounding wood is truly the hardest part of mastering the technique.

[@josephlai9759]

Thank you for a very clear and concise explanation of the proper steps in rivetting. Swelling the dent with hot iron and wet towel is a gem of a tip. Never knew that.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Glad it was helpful!

[@TramJizzle]

I had no idea how this was done, a clear and well explained video of the process, thanks for posting 👍👍

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

You are most welcome. It's a fun and for the most part easy way to fasten things.

[@nettlesome-project]

I appreciate this thoroughness. I'm getting ready to rivet my frames into floor timbers on my build and want to see riveting from every conceivable angle. Huge thanks.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

The main tricks in my mind are 1. Drive the nails into the roves so you don’t need another set of hands. 2. Nip the nail off not much more than 1/2 the nail thickness beyond the rove. Too much length is hard to peen down. 3. Use nippers with that leave a squared off nail end if possible. If your nippers leave a chisel end, a cross peen hammer will do a better job of getting the peening started. 4. Use a light touch on the hardening up strikes. Letting the iron jump a little on the strikes helps it set better than being a brute.

[@mikejustice1196]

Awesome Mark Thanks for sharing your talent

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

You’re binging hard there Mike. Don’t forget to eat and sleep once in a while.

[@mikejustice1196]

@@Nomadboatbuilding now I need the video to remove them

[@markkubiak8296]

A discussion of rivet sizes is essential. #12, #13, #14 and their measurement along the flat.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

I'll consider that. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@BigFiveJack]

At 4:25 we see the end result of the "Clinking" in this "Clinker" boat building process! I've learned it's about 100 strikes, [aka "clinks"] per rivet!t A very nice presentation Sir. Very Nice!

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

BigFiveJack my boat building mentor would allow exactly 7 strikes per rivet. 5 for peening and two to set it tight. I like a nicer finish than 7 will allow though and I'm confident my rivets are going to hold better and longer so if it takes me 100 strikes, so be it.

[@daleskidmore1685]

I riveted the rails on my boat restoration. It was fiddly, but really worth the time over screw and plug. I have noticed in some French vids that they put the rove on the other way as a countersink.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

That's interesting. I've never seen that variation. I must try it. I imagine it could be harder to get the peening going in that concave surface but that would depend on the hammer. I'll have to give that a try. Thanks for the idea.

[@neilaleksandrov2655]

wow, the skill! subscribed!

[@georgesimmons9815]

Thank you for another nice video. Your editing, audio, lighting, pacing, etc are great.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Thanks for the kind words George. I was under the impression that I kind of flubbed this one. I had to rush it out the door to coincide with something I was doing on my instagram feed.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Thanks for the kind words George. I was under the impression that I kind of flubbed this one. I had to rush it out the door to coincide with something I was doing on my instagram feed.

[@midfutballr]

Thanks for posting.

[@capefalconkayak]

Good stuff, thanks!

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Glad you liked it!

[@stevegordon872]

Mark, great video. If you are going to paint the exterior, do you ever make deliberate countersinks (like with a forsner bit) so the nailhead can be filled before painting?

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Not in light planking. And putty will rarely hold for long. I have heard of a concoction made with gum arabic mixed with maybe pine tar that will hang on. Possibly some of the epoxy putties like TotalFair might work. In heavy planking you could countersink and putty or plug.

[@paulludington4030]

Very informational video. Thanks. Can you suggest a source to purchase the bucking iron?

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

They are pretty hard to find. I had mine made by a machinist. There is a set of four offered by Traditional Boat Supplies in the UK for about £98, but in my experience you mostly only need one shaped somewhat like mine. My sugestion is that you lean on the hobby machinist world to make one for you. I'm sure you will find someone eager to do a "little job" for $50. Try postting an inquiry on one of the many forums. I can supply you with a drawing if you like.

[@scottdowney4318]

I have a ton, well couple thousand partially corroded so more like nails Everdure bronze screws, which are 1.75" long #10 sized. I have thought they might be usable as rivets. I did use one to fix a pizza cutter. I know copper is softer, but can bronze be used too?

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

That’s a tough one. Bronze is certainly harder to move around than copper. It’s possible but if those screws are corroded such that they are no good as screws anymore, I wouldn’t use them as rivets either.

[@johnthaler9297]

Hi Mark, thank you for the great videos! Do you have any advice for choosing the size (gauge) of the rivet for a specific task. eg. Planking vs ribs to gunwales vs a knee between transom and gunwales. I can logic/measure my way around the length of rivet required but I’m stumped by the decision on gauge.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

That is a really good question John and I wish I had a definitive answer for you. The choice is so contextual and may be limited by availability of sizes. I suppose you could say you choose the size that is as reasonably large as possible without compromising the thing you are trying to fasten. For 3/8 lapstrake planks that usually have a 3/4" lap I would use 12ga. For fastening the gunnel structure I go up to maybe 10ga or even 8ga. The lighter sizes of say 14ga and smaller would get used for lighter craft like canoes and such. There are some charts available. "Nevin's scantling rules for wooden yachts" makes mention of some screw fastening sizes based on plank thickness but nothing regarding rivets. In very rough terms you could say the fastener body cross section should be 1/3 the thickness of your planking stock but I wouldn't say that is a hard number. I hate to say it but tis is one of those times that you only know by doing. Usually the plank to plank and the plank to frame fasteners are the same gauge.

[@andrewebmaster5376]

Hello máster great video, is posible you give me a link for Shop Cooper rivets and Rover for begin me traditional boat project? I live in Panama and here dont have this. Thank for you time and share... Good healt.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

One supplier I know of is Jamestown Distributers. I have been unable to find a source for square rivets lately.

[@_noname617]

thanks for sharing - i wouldn't mind seeing a small rivet project

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

That's a great idea. I'll put that suggestion in the hopper.

[@RiverbendlongbowsOutdoors]

Very cool Mark 👍 I carry my edge banding iron with me on finish jobs. Works great for pulling dents on sight Rivets were great

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Riverbendlongbows Outdoors never leave the ranch without packing some heat.

[@JenkinsBoatWorks]

good stuff!

[@shaneruby8547]

Where did you get the square copper nails?

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

It’s been a good number of years since I've need to buy any but you can probably get them from the Wooden Boat Foundation store or Admiral Marine in Port Townsend or you could try Jamestown Distributers.

[@davidmoore5021]

Thanks for sharing

[@fundybanjos]

Doesn't really need to be said because it's self evident, but nice video buddy. Interesting to see all the tools you've got for this, and the steam fixing.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Thanks 👍

[@dscraft6358]

Great trick to steam the hammer mark. I have never tried that before. Thanks for sharing that. And a nice video :)

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

DSCRAFT sure thing. It works pretty well. Hard to make the results invisible. Sometimes a slight discolouration in clear finishes shows.

[@Dillon-bl3dz]

Can you just use screws?

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

You could but copper rivets offer a lot of advantages. A minimal hole. Ease of replacement. High strength and flexibility.

[@Dillon-bl3dz]

@@Nomadboatbuilding alright

[@oldwillie313]

Why not put protection around the rove like a piece of leather as others have done. Can't iron the whole boat.

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Well that requires a third hand to hold it there. You certainly can iron the whole boat but usually just a mop down with hot water takes care of 90% of any dents that might have occurred.

[@pt4242]

how/why is that called a rove instead of a burr?

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

In the British/European tradition, which is prevalent in Canada, the washer is dished and we call it a rove, while the American version is a flat washer and is referred to as a burr. So dished: rove, flat: burr.

[@soylentgreen326]

Riveting 🍻

[@bonafideadventures8425]

I was a carpenter when I was younger and we used to call the hammer dents donkey tracks

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

That's perfect. I am totally using that expression from now on!