Mastering Bandsaw Tuning: Expert Tips from Alex Snodgrass for Precision Performance and Smooth Cuts

[@davidwsteadman]

I've always struggled to get a straight cut trying to mill with my bandsaw. Now I know why! I'm getting immediately better results following the steps in this video.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Just got my first bandsaw. This explains how and more importantly why adjustments are made.

[@dw_carvings]

Best video I've ever seen explaining bandsaw tuning, and I've watched a ton lol. Thank you!!!

[@giwrgossoiles3536]

He has the right belly for a woodworker. You can trust this guy for sure 👍 It’s like a diploma

[@paulwright6961]

Mr. Snodgrass, I want to thank you for going in-depth and giving reasoning for why you set the saw up the way you do. I've spent 30 years in different disciplines of manufacturing, and I've always been tasked with teaching what I've learned. The way that you take time to explain the minute details (such as how heat damages the teeth of the blade) is invaluable. Excellent tutorial sir!

[@philshock3805]

Thank you for your skill and knowledge. I bought a used 14 in Rigid bandsaw almost 10 years ago for $75. It was badly neglected, lots of surface rust and the top wasn't even tightened down. I took care of all that, replaced the rubber tires with neoprene, put in some new guides (cool guides), and purchased a new blade. With your fantastic set up demo from that old woodworking show video ("Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass" from 12 yrs ago), my bandsaw ran like a champ ... and still does to this day! Glad to see you give a refresher to newer woodworkers. I cringe every time I hear a tool company recommend tracking the blade in the center!

[@DidierFrippiat]

That was fantastic, thank you for those simple explanations. Blacktail Studio recommended your video and boy was he right.

[@Jake-tt6mk]

Thanks to Mr. Snodgrass, Woodcraft... and whoever invented KZbin!

[@markgkenny2264]

Not only the best video on setting a bandsaw but one of the best instructional videos I've ever seen! Almost perfect - except the last 10 seconds. I don't understand why you used a glued up board instead of a more challenging solid one-piece board with some grain challenges. Great Video - thanks

[@rustydegeorge5726]

Being fairly new to woodworking, and particularly the bandsaw, I found this information incredibly helpful! I have a Rikon 10” 10-3061 bandsaw and will use this video to fine tune my setup. Wish I had a Woodcraft closer to where I live!!!

[@seanpaula8924]

Thank you. Saved for future reference.

[@JohnJones-mz2tc]

This is a superb demonstration. Will centering the gullet on the top wheel damage the tyre or is it negligible.

[@hansmortensen5668]

Mind blown on the pivot point, that makes so much sense.

[@Uswesi1527]

Indeed, very important instructions. Operating any machine safely and properly is a “ MUST “ .

[@alanbotfield2308]

Just starting my first project with my bandsaw, your advice is very helpful and really helpful to myself and many others, big thank you

[@socketman]

That last cut was amazing. I tried to rip a 2x4 in half and it drifted so badly that it cut it in half diagonally. I couldn't imagine actually doing a straight cut on my bandsaw, so I only ever use it for small things where the cut is so short there's not time to drift. So thank you, this is great, I can't wait to go tune my bandsaw and actually get some good use out of it.

[@davidgagnon2849]

A month later...... how is your bandsaw cutting now?

[@ksojoel]

two months later... have you succeeded at tuning your bandsaw?

[@michaelbezoski3096]

Perfect video for us less than perfect band saw users. Thank you for the knowledge it took years to perfect (unless you worked for an older Master Wood Worker). Plus you just made using the saw safer. Excellent, subscribed.

[@blaisdja]

This video is very helpful! I followed it and still got drift. Then I ordered a new 3/4 Laguna resaw blade and followed the setup directions. It cut like a hot knife through butter with no drift. I think my main problem was that my original blade was shot!

[@guyedkins3200]

Alex, great stuff! Well done. I found that finding the "true" crown of tire can be a bit of guess to set the gullet just right. I used a good old fashioned ball point pen on bright orange urethane tire set dead center of the tire and spun the wheel. Viola, instant alignment line to get the blade spot on every time!

[@across8339]

This is superb and perfect timing as my bandsaw has more drift than a Japanese b-movie on fast forward!

[@EricHollister-e3l]

This is great. Thank you so much for sharing. I know I’m be making those adjustments today!

[@Zippytie]

Thank you

[@thomasanderson2248]

Hi Alex i love your videos most helpful always. Now do you have a video o the wrack and pinion maintenance as mine has a little bit of side movement as it goes up and down pushing the blade over a bit. I would love your advice please . Thank you.

[@JLJCoastersPlus]

great infomation thanks, just what i needed.

[@glennchaffin8446]

Great video Alex. I just got my new Rikon 10-3061 table top band saw and I plan to build a rolling cart for it. My question is what is the ideal working height for a bandsaw like mine? Thanks again for posting this setup video.

[@johnlivsey4146]

Excellent info. Thanks

[@davnunn1]

Really helpful.. thanks

[@PeanutsDadForever]

Boy, you know your stuff Alex. Thanks for sharing. 🇦🇺👴🏻

[@GeraldJensen]

Great advice ... never have seen such a thorough bandsaw setup video. Thanks Alex! Off the subject ... are you a Bulldogs, Packers, or Grambling fan? Couldn't help but notice that belt buckle, and would love to have one like it (I live in Green Bay!).

[@DebHeadworth]

Thank you!!!!!

[@saifmanna]

Thank you very much

[@Stoeckermann]

Any recommendations If the wheel ist Not crowned?

[@nathanr6381]

Great video. Unfortunately my badnsaw is cheap and nasty. Makes fine tuning super difficult. The blade wheel is too thin to centre the blade to the gullet, the base is stamped sheet and not level at all and the fence is cheap junk. Oh and the guard is wonky so I have to adjust the guides each time I move it up or down. Wish I'd saved a little more for a better model but that's the joy of starting out I guess.

[@richardbrooks3569]

Mr. Snodgrass, I have conflicting instructions on setting the blade position. The mfgr Laguna says to center the blade on the wheel. I am currently using a 1/2 inch blade. I noticed that, when centered, the blade on the bottom wheel is very close to the front edge. I currently have the blade set per your instructions. Is there some reason that I should worry about setting my blade per your instructions vs. the mfgr? I have done a couple of test cuts your way and they are very satisfactory

[@splunge743]

I have a jet 12" and after replacing the rubber tires with neoprene, I noticed a few things. When I put the top tire back on and tightened the nut onto the bearing, it would not spin freely. So, I backed off the nut a tad to allow it to rotate freely. Once both tires were put back onto the saw and the blade centered, when I turned on my saw, I noticed that the blade was moving in and out about 1/8th" as the wheels turned. Is this due to improper replacement or alignment of the wheels? What can I do to solve this issue? Thanks P.s. I will check to see if the blade's gullet is in the correct position.

[@Sageofthedustypage]

That was really good.

[@g8r22]

Since what dulls the blade is loosing the set on the teeth (knife edge) is there any advantage to carbide tipped blades?

[@melgross]

Only if you do a lot of resawing. By a lot, I mean commercially.

[@ricks2936]

If your putting in a 1 inch blade it doesn’t seem possible to center the gullet. Can you suggest a depth for a larger blade

[@kenhorner4023]

Alex, I have two questions. (1) I assume the guide bearing setups are the same for the bearings under the table, correct? and (2) You started by saying the lower wheel was already set, but never spoke about any tuneup actions down there. Are we to generally ignore the need to tune the blade to the lower wheel? Thanks.

[@LynnardCrow]

I tried putting the deepest part of the tooth in the middle of the wheel and when I turn on the saw the blade moves forward where the back of the blade is on the wheel center.... what am I doing wrong?

[@nathansmees1471]

Are you adjusting the tracking knob while manually spinning the wheel?

[@moritz7155]

@@nathansmees1471 no… but I found a guide under my table and adjusted it and now I have it lined up perfectly.

[@danav4810]

Place, can you activate the automatic translation for your vidéos, so I can good understand what you explain. Thanks

[@WoodcraftSupply]

It is activated.

[@danav4810]

​@@WoodcraftSupply sorry but not the possibilité to translate in a other language 😢

[@WoodcraftSupply]

@@danav4810 I'm very sorry, I can see the auto translate button on my end. I'm not sure how to fix it. I will look into it more.

[@danav4810]

@@WoodcraftSupply I test it today and I can translate the vidéo in French Thanks

[@moonolyth]

Exelent Sir!!!❤

[@helder4u]

Perfect. 🤔🙃🤩

[@DavidBird-uu8km]

I found your video from Blacktail studio. Thank you for a great information video.

[@hwmbo727]

What about tire placement? I just replaced the worn-out 20 year-old tires on my Genereal 90-150M and the machine vibrates even more than before. The new urethane tires are just a bit narrower than the wheels. I've tried to pull sections of the tires so they are as consistent as possible, but that's a challenge. Any suggestions?

[@sunalwaysshinesonTVs]

Yeah, I get the concept yet what I dont get is why bandsaw manufactures (just got me a Laguna) don't recommend such a set up. I set up the blade per the manual, and the blade (3/4" Resaw King) is cutting dead flat boards. Yes, blade tension at teeth = better tracking in theory, but are blades engineered to operate that way? Per manuals, tension is centred on the blade. Your recco puts all the tension on the edge. There's gotta be more to the story.

[@HardcoreWoodworking]

How else are bandsaw blade makers gonna make money if everyone sets their blades up right?

[@melgross]

@@HardcoreWoodworkingvery funny.

[@melgross]

I agree. This seems wrongheaded. I just commented on this as well. What he does also puts uneven tension on the blade. He says that’s good. But it stretches the blade unevenly, contributing to wear and leading to breakage. Additionally, the teeth now press heavily against the wheel tires, wearing them out faster as well. Normally, the center of the blade sees the most pressure and contact.

[@melgross]

@@HardcoreWoodworkingbecause if people do, they will like the blade more and buy them from that manufacturer.

[@dslboysc1]

I just bought some trouble a Delta 18” with two knobs for blade tracking. The manual is no help. It just says turn both knobs equal amounts.. Great! That’s real help full. Nothing about both clockwise or counterclockwise, or one clockwise and other counterclockwise. Or hints on turns to track the blade forward or backwards. Can anyone help haven’t found a video with two adjustments knobs?

[@chrisweigand1817]

I have used your videos countless time to help me but this is the first time I didn't get my answer. I am installing a 1 1/4" resew king on my laguna 18bx and am unable to get the blade in the correct position with the deepest part of the gullet at the crown of the wheel. the blade is to wide and rubs on the back. I am sure there is a solution for this I just can't find it.

[@tomm2519]

Try centering the blade on the wheel, make sure that the guide blocks are very close to the blade (no more than 0.003" on each side) and the thrust bearing doesn't turn when the saw is on. With the saw off, push on a tooth with one finger and move the blade; if the back of the blade is close enough to the thrust bearing, it should turn before the finger pressure is enough to cause pain or draw blood. If that doesn't solve it, check the alignment of the table to the blade. Consider adding a short plywood fence that stops where the teeth begin to cut; sometimes drift in resawing is caused by the released tension of wood passing the blade forcing it to deviate from straight. Drift has many causes and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. I am in a guild and several very skilled members (who were not having problems with drift) tried the Snodgrass method; it worked for some but not for others. Everyone who tried it went back to centering the blade. The consensus was that wide blades need a lot of tension, and even if the upper blade guard doesn't rub on the back of the blade, why would putting most tension on the edge and leaving the mass of the blade less tensioned be a good thing? I couldn't use a 3/4" Resaw King with my 14-inch saw because of upper blade guard contact; oddly when setting it up by hand it seemed fine, but when power was applied the noise was alarming. I tried a 1/2" and it worked ok, but no reason to say it was better.

[@shaynerushton214]

Just a thought. If the table isn’t square, then you have to use a square to fix it. Your test is great if it is square. Not saying it would be impossible to figure it out, but it would have been great to see how you handle a table that wasnt square.

[@andersnelson6888]

Band saw? might as well be called an Alex Snodgrass saw

[@WoodcraftSupply]

Not a bad idea.

[@robertbaldwin2779]

At 3:43, you say “anything less than that ….” Don’t you mean more?

[@ItsAlive111]

He meant less tension, more flex

[@kiukle]

How do we find the center of the wheel since it's not marked? Looks like my wheel (the yellow band part) is 27mm, so do I just estimate a guess of 13.5mm and hope for the best?

[@EnquiringMinds-vx8gb]

This man must go through bandsaw tyres like nones business. Let me guess, he sells those too? I get his idea but setting up guides on the leading edge would be better as they wouldn’t cause as much uneven tension on the blade and destroy your tyres. Bandsaw manufacturers know what they’re talking about. Anything approaching 1” should be set with the back of the blade 2mm minimum off of centre.

[@stuarth43]

cobblers if yourun the saw where you say, the set will rip up the rubbers, polymers, whatever the wheels have bonded on them, i run the teeth off the front of the wheel, not touching the rubber

[@melgross]

The placement t of the blade on the top wheel goes against every other recommendation I’ve ever seen, or the way I do it. Normally the blade should be centered on the wheel. The reason is that when it’s centered, the blade runs parallel. That is the front of the blade and the back of the blade are exactly the same distance apart. But this way means that the teeth on the blade will run with the teeth to the right of the back of the blade. That makes it difficult to cut straight. So this is a strange way to center the blade. Will it work, obviously it works for him, but it makes things more difficult.