Mastering Crown Molding | Best Fastening Method

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Fastening Crown Molding - My Go-To Method
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Hey guys, today I want to share my method for fastening crown molding. I recently had several carpenters on a job site impressed by this technique-they’d never seen it before!
I learned this method over 30 years ago from my mentor, and I’ve since modified it with the advent of GRK trim head screws.
Most carpenters I see installing crown molding use a 15 or 16-gauge pneumatic or cordless nailer, firing 2-1/2-inch finish nails, in their crown, hoping to hit studs.
However, I was taught a more reliable approach-using a 16-penny nail. Here’s how it works:
You pre-drill a hole and drive the nail at a 45-degree angle through the belly of the crown molding. This angle ensures that you hit the top plate of the wall every time.
The nail pulls both the top and bottom edges of the crown tight to the wall and ceiling.
Note:
This tip works best in platform-framed homes, assuming you have a double or single top plate above your wall. For balloon-framed or timber framed homes this method won’t apply as easily. In those cases, you’ll need to locate the studs -my go-to for finding the studs is with a “Stud-Pop” magnet.
Now, here’s the updated version of the technique I use today:
Instead of nails, I now use 4-inch GRK cabinet trim head screws.
You can pre-drill or drive them straight in, depending on the quality of your crown molding.
Just like before, I drive the screw at a 45-degree angle into the top plate, and the molding gets sucked tight against the wall and ceiling.
The result is incredibly secure, with the screw closing most gaps rather than just hanging there on the wall like finish nails do.
It’s true-GRK screws are more expensive than finish nails. But the grip they provide is far superior. This method also eliminates the need for multiple finish nails in the wall studs or angled nails in the ceiling where you might not hit strapping or joists-it’s always a bit of a guessing game up there.
With my method, I place a screw every 18 to 24 inches, then simply nail the outside miters.
Occasionally, I’ll use my 16-gauge cordless nailer to temporarily hold the molding in place while I screw it, but otherwise, I use minimal finish nails.
One trick I’ve learned: avoid using screws within 18 inches of an outside miter. Get your miter tight, fasten it, and let the glue joint cure before adding a screw near that area. If you can’t wait for the glue to set, try using a screw, but if it hampers your miter, just stick with nails in that section. Same applies to the butt end of the molding that is covered by a coped joint.
Give this method a try-I think you'll find it not only secures the crown molding better but also saves time on fastening and caulking.
#CrwonMolding
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[@jargentieri11778]

This tip is perfect. It solves all of the issues of attaching crown to a wall securely. Awesome

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Yes it does!

[@lisaferrara8120]

GRK makes quality screws. I use them a lot.

[@DougStieb]

Love, love, love GRK's. Use all of their types. Wish they came out years ago.

[@garykintzler4273]

Thanks for all of the information that you share.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

My pleasure!

[@flyfishnewengland]

Good tip. Thanks Rob!

[@dans4900]

This is a really good tip. I actually use blocking for the stain grade. I will put a triangle of 2x material with the screw thats cut the same or a little smaller than the back of the crown and mark it on the wall with blue tape Than use a finish gun. The blocking behind keeps the molding staight i always have problems with a twist and its magnified at the mitre. Started doing it this way when i did a lot of it on facia outside and just took it to the inside of the house. Good video thanks

[@PaulRobinson-p2v]

The mitre.

[@ohiofarmer5918]

Well sorry my reply is almost exactly like yours. Did not see yours first

[@myway3343]

I only use GRK’s. Their deck and construction screws are sharper and makes fastening easier. I will definitely try this on crown molding >>>

[@rickjablonski9669]

Agreed. Even as a simple home gamer. I quickly realized GRK screws are just better.

[@floridabeardedwoodworker]

I wood love to use this method on my house with a hardwood…… great tip, has got my ideas flowing. Thanks

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Go for it!

[@bobmartin6055]

Thanks for sharing!

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@bobmartin6055 you bet Bob, thanks for commenting

[@rsmith7292]

Great tip - thanks!

[@ConcordCarpenter]

You bet!

[@Jddlincoln]

Learned something new today. I like it.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@Jddlincoln thanks for commenting Judd

[@tfmrotek]

I have an upcoming job where I'll be running a bunch of paint grade crown solo. That will be a great opportunity to try this technique.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Glad it's helpful!

[@temujin2]

this is genius... id suggest a jig for pre drilling on the ground guaranteeing proper angle and less ladder time.

[@ohiofarmer5918]

What I do is use little blocks cut from a 2x4 and locate the studs and screw them into the studs through a pre drilled countersink hole . I make the blocks just slight so that they have about an eighth gap from the crown. I always dub the corner of where it could distort at the wall ceiling juncture. As a final step, put little dabs of painters tape where the studs are. I can usually get blocks within three inches of an outside corner and air driven finish nails with smaller heads work just fine If I need a scarf joint in the middle of a run,the blocks will hold it nicely together A touch of expanding foam can also help. I also use a gauge block and a very fine mechanical pencil for gauging down from the ceiling. Some clients with stained and varnished crown want very tiny nail head holes,so that is what my comment is for

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@ohiofarmer5918 agreed for stain grade- great tips

[@williamsmith9026]

I dig the screw idea becausebif there is an issue you can back them out and make an adjustment if trouble happens. With me trouble happens.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

I agree - less forgiving to screw up once nailed.

[@jonblakemore6454]

I approach the same way but with a 2.5in 15 gauge nail. With a 3-5/8 crown, i find i can atill hit the top plate if I locate and angle it correctly.

[@sdsconstruction]

Great idea. I have installed crown for over 20 years and this one never occurred to me! I like the idea of possibly fewer fasteners but tighter holds on the top and bottom joint from the central screw. On stain grade crown are you plugging the trim head hole or filling? What would be your fill method for prefinished crown in a kitchen application? Thanks for the content as always!

[@williamsmith9026]

I'm only a painter. For already finished product I buy those small containers of colored wood puttys. Get a color on the lighter side and darker side of the work piece unless by chance you get a true match out of the jar. Then I break off pieces of each and mix them together to dial the color in as close as I can sometimes even leaving it marbled/swirly for a grained look. Push it in tight and wipe away the excess with your remaining putty ball. There will be a light film around the hole. A dab of mineral spirits an a rag will remove it.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Prob plug or run a continuous nailer behind

[@jonnymiskatonic]

Awesome tip, Definitely doing that next time I install crown molding. Also, who's that young guy hanging the concord carpenter sign in your intro video? 😁

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Haha me

[@BiggMo]

I’m assuming this is for paint grade crown? Seams like a large hole for stained.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@BiggMo 100%

[@mikeh4686]

Question: Would screws hold the same in either MDF or Pine?

[@rogerspaulding6569]

Nice!

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@TheRealGOTdurrrred]

I like it

[@IRAKLICHIKHLADZE]

How about base molding? Would you recommend using 4 inch screws with 45 degree angle facing down as well?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@IRAKLICHIKHLADZE no need. Base molding sits flat on the wall

[@MatthewPark-u5l]

I guess it depends on the crown width but is there an average length of GRK fastener you use for this? 3 1/8” or maybe 4”? Thanks!!!

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@MatthewPark-u5l 4-5”

[@MatthewPark-u5l]

@ thanks so much!!

[@jeffreymaddalena9890]

Any tips for plaster wire lathe walls? Small 1/2” steel stud every 6-8”

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@jeffreymaddalena9890 I’d install a continuous wood nailer then apply/fasten crown to that

[@tedmcdonald3377]

😎🛠️😎🛠️😎

[@MrBaconis]

How are you finding that Milwaukee installation driver? Milwaukee is my platform, especially the 12v stuff, but the way you switch from forward to reverse on the M12 installation driver is a major turn off. The last gen festool csx is what I use for stuff like this. Also, grk trim screws are amazing problem solvers.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Like it

[@jonathanconway7256]

I typically only use screws when installing structural crown...

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Haha

[@sterlingsnyder]

Are you a Concord, Athens, WV alum?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@sterlingsnyder no

[@steventicknor8059]

The screws maybe more expensive up front but you use less of them than the nails. Also you will save time by not having to hunt studs and puttying all the extra nail holes. Now with that said you will be hated by the person who has to take down the molding in the future!!

[@histershellac2842]

this seems like a fine technique to fasten crown but i always use a calibrated laser to establish the condition of the ceiling along the entire area where the crown is present and determine if it is wise to drive the crown all the way up which could result in hideous reveal changes between crown / cabinets / casing / archways etc. and make inside / outside miter work a time suck. the way i was taught and try to convince my customers to afford is establishing a good looking average registration line ( horse trade a bit, be flexible) and have my tapers visit to float-skim the ceiling to crown reveal ( if necessary ) and this work on the ceiling is virtually invisible to the customer's perception where as verticle reveal changes jump out and janky, MC Escher miter work gets seen.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@histershellac2842 you’re assuming that the crown could be noticed by people looking at it, which they can’t. If you listen to me, I mentioned that I do not use the screws near the miters. I told him lighters are perfect and then I got a screw later if at all. If you’re going over cabinets and or archways, that’s a different story and of course you need your reveals to be perfect as long as you have reference box on the wall and you’re following them you should be fine. I say floating ceilings with plaster when ceilings are really bad or off. it’s definitely an option if needed, but we certainly don’t do it as a regular course of business.

[@jefff6167]

Recognizing you’re a carpenter, how about a video on finishing crown molding? Especially best practices for hiding the nail/screw holes before paint or stain finishes. Thanks for your consideration.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

That’s on the painter but who knows… maybe

[@jeffreym755]

I would bet your molding is a bit wavy looking

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@jeffreym755 no it’s not - I use a scrap piece of molding and,ark the ceiling and wall every 4-6 feet apart and at all inside and outside corners. I make sure to keep the crown on the lines - nice and straight

[@Pepe-dq2ib]

Honestly, I rather get the drywalling correct than add my grandma's ceiling mold.