KX250 shock & linkage bearing replacement - Pivot Works

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[@Outdoorsman351]

I stand with most other people in saying this video has been a life saver! I bought a 96 kx 125 and tore it all down to do a full rebuild and after I tore it down I got really busy with school and work, well now (6 months later, after many set backs) I have my frame powder coated! Well my bike now sits in my room being put back together, well low and behold I don't remember anything with the rear suspension, this video has been a life saver! Thank you again! Now if only you have a video on which way the piston goes so I could put that together :D

[@HTMR]

Thanks for the compliments! I'll be coming out with a top end video soon. The piston should have an arrow that faces the exhaust.

[@Outdoorsman351]

Yep, I found another video that said the arrow goes towards the exhaust. I got bearing pressed in the linkage and am gonna press swingarm bearing tomorrow if I get the chance then she can go back together finally!

[@HTMR]

Outdoorsman351 Good to hear!

[@damnmillennials3913]

Just found your channel as I do this job myself. Thanks for uploading it! One trick to get out that first bolt you had trouble getting out is to remove that rubber bushing guide for the chain on the left side there. It makes accessing the bolt much easier and with zero cussing lol

[@MegaJabadabadoo]

Awesome. Great video and I like how you're not like "go buy this and this and this". I'm new to dirt bikes and I'm rebuilding a 99 kx250 and spending more than I budgeted because I don't want to do it again and keep finding new things that need to be or should be replaced (such as a complete bottom end, which has about $250 more in bearings and seals than the "complete bottom end kit" everybody sells. Anyway, you're awesome for putting these videos out. Keep it up. Thanks.

[@Oxigan2win]

Matthew.. I really dont know how to thank you. I am a beginner at bikes (driving ATV mainly) and I just bought a 2002 YZ 250. Many things are the same with your KX 250 which makes your videos a gold mine for me! At the moment I am completely disassembling the bike to rebuild every part which requires it. I just wanted to say "man-I-love-you-these-vids-are-incredibly-helpfull"!!! Greetings from germany!

[@HTMR]

Thanks for the compliments! You can email me anytime if you have any questions.

[@nickparlee]

Great video man, love the before and after at the end, I’m having the same problem on a kx 125 I just picked up and you just showed me everything I need to know, thanks

[@andrewfarrant198]

Great vid, I have a 1990 Kx250 & I'm going to change all my bearings & seals too. I've owned it for 19 years, for all I know they are original. After watching your video, I'm probably just going to order some new hardware to save time. For a 27 year old bike, I think it deserves it & worth it. Thanks for the info.

[@HTMR]

I also have a swingarm bearing video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gprTaGyjoLGkb6M

[@2WheelDerness]

thanks for your video, I have exact same components on GasGasEc300 and of course the same issues. I was thinking to weld the linkage but wasn't sure if it will hold. Now I will do it since is the cheapest solution.

[@HTMR]

Yeah, the rocker arm was in bad shape. I had it TIG welded up to put material back and hole resized. Good luck on the ninja!

[@chromey5938]

Hey Matt, very nice and simple videos. I followed your instructional guide to replacing front fork seals on my 1999 kx250 and it was very simple. I even modified a 1 1/2" 40 T just like yours and it worked like a charm. Now, for the question. after putting everything back on the bike, i put the bike off the stand. As i picked up i heard clicking from the rear suspension. I can sit on the bike and when i let the suspension stroke come back up it clicks several times at the top. Is this a shock issue or is it a bearing issue like you are working on in this video? I bought the bike used so you know how that goes lol.

[@brandonquenneville7330]

My 2000' is fine . The bearing was installed Improperly at the factory. Good work

[@HTMR]

+Brandon Quenneville Thanks!

[@stevodakine1]

Good video, I noticed your tie rods slipped on very easy over the bolts. Mine was really tight very little tolerance around the shaft of the bolts. Not sure why it was so difficult, it took a while to line them up after the rebuilt.

[@HTMR]

Rusty bolt? Maybe a burr?

[@stevodakine1]

Not sure what it was. I finally got it together, just took a while. Rebuilt the whole bike, frame off restoration. Came out really clean, took it to the track and it performed like it was a new bike.

[@HTMR]

Awesome!

[@somebodysomeone832]

I got the all balls kit. Did the lower bearing on the swingarm, all 3 on the linkage knuckle thing, and ended up with 2 different inner sleeves and 2 end caps that don’t fit anything left over. So confused. Good video though as always

[@stephenfox2881]

How did you get that last bolt out? Mines stuck bad. I broke my linkage right where you guys made your repair. Luckily i have an extra frame. Hopefully i can fix it

[@HTMR]

I cut it. Also, BFH and a lot of swearings helps.

[@HTMR]

Nice. I need a bigger vice or a small press.

[@andrewbishop971]

Just found your channel, some good info here. I've got an 01 kx250 and about to start a resto, but being in Oz the current exchange rate is killing me! You need to bolt you vice to bench a bit better.

[@HTMR]

Awesome. I have a ton of videos on that same bike. BTW, I bought a new vise: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJa6gpWCYp6Zf7c

[@jamesobrien6855]

Same thing happened to me pounded the nut in and only got it moving after few sprays of lube and few wacks with a 4 pound beater. Threads and nut and bolt where both toast and I was trying to save them but it was only way to get it out.

[@bongard1]

Great video I have been struggling with the bearings on my 1999 kx250 and this really helped thanks.

[@brokebikemtb4448]

i rebuilt my rocker luckily ...but I didn't have a vise or torch so I soaked it in on blaster for 30 mins....and put it on a space heater for 15....did the socket thing ...but with a hammer against the floor...once I saw the race go down a mm I knew it was gonna come out ....i used a 30 mm...on the other end and hammered one that matched the race ...came right out...just in time two sections of the race were gone but it still has the back ring intact...im gonna see if Kawasaki will sell me just the dogbone bearing....i didn't know it was this crazy to do bearings have my bike totally apart right now so after watching this I checked my swingarm lucked out with the rocker I shot on blaster into it with the seals off....then lithium greased it....works good.i really hope I don't have to buy a bearing kit for just the dogbone...2009 kx 250f

[@HTMR]

See if these people sell it separately: store.factory-links.com/

[@Sparkydo777]

Thanks for the hot tip on using heat and a vice to get the old bearings out of the linkage, but like a typical yank you gave up to earlier, I persisted that little longer and succeded, boo Ya

[@stuiwindsurf]

Great video - I found myself glued to the bearing removal via vise / blow torch even though I have no intention of doing it myself. Keep up the good work.

[@user-sp8eb6iz7f]

What size C-clamp is that, is that the right size? too small too big? Thx

[@edgarsantos3745]

Nice work and video, but i have one question! When you remove this bearings, its indiferent wich side you put the larger socket and the small, or have one direction to remove?

[@HTMR]

If there is no shoulder, then it doesn't matter. The larger socket is so the bearing gets pushed out.

[@NzJohny]

at 2.45 is like a mirror image of me trying to get mine out on my 01 kx 125 last night haha what a mission that was, that other bearing on mine was completly gone to, caused no damage luckily

[@Pentti.Mattila]

Hi! I have the same problem with the lower shock bearing. I've had it replaced twice and it still keeps wearing after another. I'm thinking about making a nylon bushing for it. Will it work?

[@HTMR]

Pentti Mattila I don't think that will work. Reason being is there is too much force on such a small "bearing surface". It really needs to redesigned to take the load. This reminds me, I need to check mine.

[@Pentti.Mattila]

MatthewMCRepair I was also thinking about using inner section of the bearing with the bushing because the shock "bearing" needs to move in a certain way. And the plastic I'm going to use is a very hard (polyurethane) and it's made especially to make bushings so I think that it will last longer than bearing.

[@HTMR]

Pentti Mattila I thought about replacing that bearing as well. Ever heard of Igus? They make plastic bearings and bar stock where you can machine your own. Let me know how yours works out.

[@Pentti.Mattila]

MatthewMCRepair I will machine my own bushing because I have the tools for it. Btw I watched your front fork repair video and I managed to service my own forks(I have 1999 KX250) and saved quite a bit of money so thanks for that. Nice videos! Keep them coming.

[@HTMR]

Pentti Mattila No problem. Glad I saved you some coin!

[@Mmdoggy1]

I've got a Kx250 myself and a Crf450, however the grease on the Kx linkage bearings seems to be washed out really fast compared to the Crf, But like you said, i guess the Kx linkage is pretty poorly thought out?

[@HTMR]

Yes, I've read a ton of threads where people are going through these bearings quite often. I have 8hrs of mx on the bearing right now and will check it over the winter.

[@dommangano6537]

when you swapped out the part on the swing arm is that still considered part of the linkage? I'm curious because I ordered a pivot works linkage rebuild kit for my 2003 kx250 and it came with 6 cages of bearing and I only need 4 for the rocker arm. I'm just curious where the other 2 go!

[@HTMR]

+Dom Mangano Are they all the same size?

[@scottmiller4889]

The last 2 bearings go on the bottom of the swingarm, where the pull rods go.

[@HTMR]

Yup. Keep that bearing lubed and some owners change it once a year!

[@alexmehregan5144]

I have the same bike and I’m still trying to get that pesky bolt out holding in the arm, I’ve tried oils, heat and hitting really hard, do you have any other ideas?

[@HTMR]

I had to cut it.

[@alexmehregan5144]

@@HTMR should I try just cutting the bolt or try and remove the whole arm assembly because I have a newer one ready to put in it’s place.

[@HTMR]

@@alexmehregan5144 Cut it.

[@erg11879]

love the brass hammer. lol. and I thought I was the only guy left with one. good vid. getting ready to do this to my brothers wr 250 thanks

[@stevodakine1]

Was there a spacer built into the center of one of those bearing housings? I was able to press out one but it appears there is a builtin spacer dividing the two needle bearings and races. The smaller race was basically welded in there I have to take my time and chisel it out not scoring the housing.

[@HTMR]

steve steve I don't think so. Check parts diagram to be certain.

[@stevodakine1]

After a few hours of heat and patience, I finished the job. Turns out that centerpiece was only one of the inner rings from the needle bearing cage. It just happened to seize up and I got lucky that the same thing that happened to yours didn't happen to mine. There was nothing left in the smaller one, a few more rides and it would have ate away at the housing most likely requiring a new part. Thanks for the response, I never had to deal with a linkage in such bad shape. Take care.

[@natebennett6504]

question, after heating the linkage cage or whatever its called. wouldn't the heat make the metal or aluminum softer? thanks, nate

[@HTMR]

nate bennett The heat added will probably bring the temp of aluminum up to 200°F, which will not hurt it.

[@natebennett6504]

oh ok thanks

[@nevanmonahan6532]

Hey, my shock arm linkage on my 1994 kx124 seems to be identical, I took everything apart and the "dog bones" or the shock linkage pull rods look like they have wear right where the bolt goes through do they need to be replaced? It sorta looks like there's a brass insert in each hole do those need to be replaced?

[@HTMR]

The kits will come with everything you need. Replace it all.

[@lisaworley2076]

Thank you ...very much for all ur awesome help / guide thru this job !!! Keep posting

[@sasngang]

Excellent... only comment is that all the nuts should go on the same side. But in general a fantastic video. I already have been though this many times and you gave a real life example of repair of one of the most needed suspension repairs for MX

[@HTMR]

Steven Schultz Thanks for the tip, Steven. I agree that this area is the most neglected on any MX bike.

[@TuCamoteCuh]

I used your method only I weld a nut on vise grip hit it with the impact pressed right out thanks man but now i need a new vise grip lol

[@nevanmonahan6532]

The linkage rods at 34:19 do they need any maintenance?

[@lilchungus5109]

At 2:07 how did you end up getting that thing out? I’m at the same spot and don’t know what to do

[@HTMR]

I had to cut the bolt and pound it out.

[@lilchungus5109]

@@HTMR thanks for the quick response😃. After a hour of pounding away at it I finally managed to get it out. Messed the end of the bolt up tho

[@rctodayukshaun4817]

Hi I'm having a problem with my 2003 kx250 the rear shock seams to be over extenting so the spring is hitting the swing are could you possibly help me out ?

[@HTMR]

Maybe watch this video and see if you have any worn linkage bearings: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gprTaGyjoLGkb6M

[@rctodayukshaun4817]

MatthewMCRepair sorry I explained it a bit wrong it's like the shock is over extenting the swing arm is going so far down the shock is hitting the back of the engine hope this helps I'm really puzzled we it now

[@HTMR]

Maybe the seal head in shock is bad? kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJTbmHWinttlq6c

[@HTMR]

Your lucky you caught yours early!

[@HTMR]

Thanks!

[@camilloni1]

How did u end up getting that linkage bolt out im in same boat?

[@HTMR]

BFH and a lot of swearing. I ruined the bolt and nut so it is $20 or so to replace. Try some penetrating lube and heat. I did not try that.

[@PillSharks]

When I did mine I put the bearings in the freezer and gently warmed the swing arm and they almost fell in.... they did need a little effort but nothing major!

[@austinfletcher8960]

Ttzzzzft

[@ramblnman24]

just subscribed...thanks for doing these vids matthew... big help to a rookie like me

[@HTMR]

No problem!

[@nvader88]

I have owned a 2000 Kx 250 and and currently own a 1998 kx 250, and both had the exact same problem. I replaced the arm both times. People just neglect their suspensions. This is a minimum once a year lube. Good video.

[@HTMR]

Do the bearings last if lubed once a year? I only put 7hrs on it so far.

[@flakeyboyz5664]

Need help. Can i use any washer (obviously right size) on that top bearing ?

[@HTMR]

Please reference a time in the video so I can help.

[@flakeyboyz5664]

MatthewMCRepair at 29:41 those washers.

[@HTMR]

I don't see why not. They are probably metric though and hard to find at hardware stores. Why not just buy the OEM ones?

[@joshwheeler1875]

is that the lower shock bearing?

[@HTMR]

Yes sir

[@michaelmacdonald329]

Heat and PB Blaster... exacly what i used for my 04 linkage.... rusted and seized too.... must be a kx thing

[@michaelmacdonald329]

I had a bigger vise and used a 5 foot pole on the end of it to get leverage to even turn my vise.... it was horrible

[@StilwellMotovlogger]

Im replacing mine tomorrow on my 1995 kdx 200. Its never been done. 23 years those bolts have been on there and them bearings never greased

[@loganrolling2536]

I’ve had the same bolt stuck for 2 days

[@brandonquenneville7330]

I like this channel. Very intelligent

[@jacobrataj21]

How would you put a bushing in the transmission

[@HTMR]

Care to share more details?

[@andystevens6979]

The vice/clamp did not work for me - bearing would not budge - I ended up hammering the socket through and this worked much better......

[@HTMR]

I used that method as well. Whatever works right?

[@IBoostedSS]

Damn dude, i got hung up where you got hung up at, my bolt is froze between frame and shock linkage, got pissed and now its miller time. Gonna try heating it up in the morning though, its in that tight spot where you cant really hit it with anything, gonna have to break out the air hammer

[@HTMR]

Soak it with penetrating oil and walk away for a while. I used an air hammer or BFH and trashed the bolt. At least it eventually came out.

[@IBoostedSS]

Its been soaking in PB blaster for a day, I have gotten it to turn but it just doesnt wanna back out, its pretty beaten up from the air hammer, good thing I dont have a deadline

[@HTMR]

I feel your pain right now. Anyway you can cut it? It's been a while since I did this so I don't remember how much room was in there.

[@angelf95]

As did mine, I said fuck it and tore the motor out so I could fit the breaker bar in and get a better angle. Worked great 👍🏼

[@ambernectar5066]

i got same prob man a seized bolt in the linkage

[@HTMR]

Seems to be a common problem. I cut mine out.

[@Astrothunderkat]

My 03 RM 250 is the exact same way

[@HTMR]

Just grease often and keep an eye on bearing.

[@user-sp8eb6iz7f]

Is there anything that "big screwdriver" can't do?

[@greaselover3248]

I DIDNT ADD EXTRA GREASE TO THE BEARINGS AND BEFORE I KNOW IT ONE OF THE BEARINGS LOST ALL THE ROLLERS😡😭

[@HTMR]

That sucks...did you find all of them?

[@jamesmanley9414]

Just watching this video made me frustrated lol

[@joelcr250]

Braaap ?

[@Advantgarded]

use a press! dont heat alu jesus christ...

[@HTMR]

I disagree, you can heat aluminum to release a steel part. Different expansion rates.

[@slimchancejw]

Just spend $140, time is money bro!

[@etyrnal]

What I don't understand is, why I Motorcycle company, that specifically manufactures a vehicle to be used in the mud and the dirt and the water, would skimp out by just a couple of dollars and not put non-corrosive parts in there. Seems like kind of a douchey thing to do. If a company is going to charge me six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve thousand dollars for a bike, you're taking all my money Put it into the actual quality of the build. I mean these bikes aren't going to be used strictly indoors where it's dry and perfect environment. They're going to be used in the most filthy crummy cruddy dirty wet icky environment possible. Why on Earth would you incorporate parts that are going to corrode or rust?

[@HTMR]

Non corrosive materials usually don't make good bearing material. Instead, people need to follow the maintenance procedure outlined in the service manual. Regrease every 10-15hrs or every year.