Metal Roof- Best Practice Details

[@ghostplyr6346]

Out of all the variety of channels I watch on KZbin, I always learn and take something away from yours. Thank you for such good informative channel.

[@augustreil]

Great point on the drip edge, Tom Silva always uses a thumbs width away from the fascia, to avoid the water getting stuck in between the two and causing rot.

[@paperwait9611]

as risinger stated in the video, usually you are going to slide the gutter behind the drip edge. in risinger's case, the cor-a-vent acted as a spacer.

[@augustreil]

@@paperwait9611, Agree, most just use a gutter or don't. Just make sure your drip edge is 1/2''-5/8'' off the fascia to prevent a capillary situation.

[@justinstevenson2061]

Aluminum fascia damn you people and your exposed fascia !! 😘

[@ColonelK0rn1]

3:48 the face that Matt gives his subs when they've not done quality work. Thanks for the explanation from Sheffield for the different finishes, and explaining the details on all things needed for a great roofing system.

[@MrClarkisgod]

People made fun of my tin roof. Guess who didn't need a new roof in the last 6 years after the last 3 hail storms and high winds from a tornado. I had a large branch fall on the house. No real damage. Couple scratches. Guy down the street had a hole thru his ceiling and roof. He came and asked me about metal roofs after that and I helped him put one on his house too. Metal roofs FTW.

[@rivalino]

fkn legend

[@tomshani6320]

Do you get a lot of noise when it rains?

[@AleaumeAnders]

I hear you. Over here we have a lot of trouble with an invasive species: racoons. They tend to wreck through simple bitumen covered garden shed roofs like a hot knife through butter. So many of my neighbors in the "garden colony" have to repair their roofs almost every year. Except for those that choose a tin roof like me. And it's not even that expensive. I bought the "eco-friendly" high priced version and even then it was only €35/m² ($4/sqft) including work and taxes. Survived two hailstorms without a scratch before I even had a chance to sheet the walls.

[@squeekhobby4571]

I try to advocate metal roof. Everyone make fun

[@lovescamaros1]

steel roofs are the way to go!

[@mattbrew11]

As a solar business owner with over 40,000 installations, I’ll say we always get excited when we can work with standing seam. Its the best roof type for solar and makes far far more sense than solar roof tiles or punching holes in a 3 tab

[@EmptyZoo393]

Being able to just clamp onto the roof without needing to worry about sealing holes is a huge perk of standing seam. That by itself has been enough to make me look closer at it. The decades long lifespan (assuming it's been installed correctly) makes it even more attractive. Any experience dealing with weird roof shapes? I've seen a lot of newer houses that seem determined to have as many rooflines as possible, and it makes anything other than asphalt a real pain in the neck.

[@ducagace1390]

In my opinion, adding ventilation behind your metal roof is an excellent idea. I never understood that we vent the wall, but not the roof when you receive all you water on it. Take care Matt!

[@vik6980]

I think it all depends whether your addic is conditioned or non conditioned/vented. In Matt's case having a vapour barrier on the inside of the roof rafters it makes sense, but if you have a ventilated truss addic, not sure if you really have to as long as you use a decent underlay?

[@ducagace1390]

@@vik6980 I think adding a vent between the roof and the plywood would reduce water pressure. Therefore, reducing risk of leakage.

[@bellaherna1]

how does this affect oil canning though as well as manufacture application recommendations of applying directly to sheathing?@@ducagace1390 trying to figure out how to accomplish this now with conditioned attic and the place we are getting the roof says manufacturer recommends applying directly to the sheathing yet not sure what happens with condensation etc

[@TheMetalRoofingChannel]

It was good to be back on the jobsite with you talking metal, Matt! Looking forward to the next project! -Thad

[@supremelawfirm]

It's a THING OF BEAUTY, Matt. LUV all the close-up details. Such exquisite craftsmanship!

[@buildshow]

Thanks Paul!

[@roberteisner4172]

@@buildshow how much of a difference does that radiant barrier make. Would you notice it if it wasnt there?

[@jeffersonmayfield6701]

Big ups to the producers, the quality of the shooting and the editing work on this one is really good. Nice work y'all!!

[@djbroxton]

Matt - I'm in Texas as well... Beaumont to be exact. Getting a black standing seam roof installed and the builders couldn't get approval to install solars with the S-5 clamp. They will have to penetrate and screw to the rafters due to the windstorm codes. Just an FYI...

[@JohnLee-db9zt]

4:13 My understanding is that you need 3/4” space for proper ventilation underneath the metal roof and to prevent snow/ice damming. The mesh and dimple mat isn’t high enough.

[@knifetex]

After yesterday’s hail storm, I’m looking into metal roofing. Perfect timing.

[@buildshow]

I’ve been installing metal roofs on the houses that I build not exclusively, but mostly over the last 15 years I’ve been in business. I’ve never once had hail damage. On the other hand I’ve seen lots of asphalt roofs to get replaced around me

[@RossMalagarie]

I have corrugated galvalum, (a steel and aluminum composite).

[@nixaeagle141]

@@buildshow did you Forget ? I thought you were going to give us pricing? Thx

[@toyman70]

@@nixaeagle141 this. He lied to us all

[@bert2754]

@@buildshow I’ve been waiting to see this part of the construction phase of your house. I was hoping you would explain the best practice details for the flashing from the siding to the metal roof.

[@keithww5111]

It would be great to see some details on the Coravent and installation.

[@wjk94061]

Like Brad Gaeth, I'm wondering how you did all your vents. The attic is conditioned, and we've seen the interior of the attic in other shows, so we can tell know you didn't cut corners and vent to the attic :-). I was watching the eves for vents, but didn't see what I guessed might be there. I think a separate show on venting best practices would be well received. In my upcoming project, I'll have a metal roof, and I'm wondering how to do combustion and exhaust air, as well as DWV.

[@james-jq8sk]

Great video, would be interested in why a black roof was chosen rather than a lighter coloured one, would it not get excessively hot in the Texas summers?

[@ayraspam7602]

Outside of paint degradation, my bet is that because of the ventilation behind it and all the insulation under that it does not have a significant impact on heat energy transfer into the home.

[@ayraspam7602]

Without ventilation, all that energy would go through the insulation. However, the high temperature variance between the well insulated home and hot metal roof will generate circulation through the ventilation system.

[@wisetow10]

Why wouldn’t all the condensation from the metal roof not rot the 1 x 4 strips?

[@independentnature295]

My thinking would be "no airflow under the metal panels = no condensation under the metal panels." I guess this approach allows water underneath and then hopes the ventilation dries it out quickly?

[@benzun9600]

Great. makes me like our black 24 gauge metal roof we just installed on our new build in Wyoming. With all the snow, hail, and cold it was a great investment.. We wanted a little extra heat from the roof. Done and never to worry about it for 30 years

[@ericbstudios9807]

Ice Guard installed onto the eaves (overhangs) is to be wrapped onto fascia and continue at least 2' past the exterior wall and over the heated space beneath. In other words: not just 3 or 4 feet "up the roof" it all depends on how big your overhangs are. When you are dealing with open porches for example you may need 8-10' of Ice Guard or more

[@toorimakun]

Matt: Talking about all the ways he is reducing heat with this roof. Also Matt: I have a black roof! YOLO! lol

[@lgl_137noname6]

I'm also confused by facing the reflecting side of the radiant barrier down, not facing the radiant source..

[@luthersullivan5141]

Black conducts heat but with radiant down heat doesnt transmit through. Still though...

[@aintquitewright1480]

Why the heck would he do everything he has done for energy efficiency then put a black roof on? Also metal roofs with that air pocket behind it will dent like crazy in hail storms.

[@toorimakun]

@@aintquitewright1480 Well on the bright side I have only seen it hail one time down here. :p (and it was pretty slushy by the time it hit the ground) but yah..... it seems very few people these days realize black absorbs heat. I have been to many places and have never seen so many people wearing black cloths.......

[@toorimakun]

@@lgl_137noname6 He didn't explain it.... but kinda sounded like that was a mistake. I guess he wanted to save time and/or money and is just going to leave it facing down.

[@rollinchapman4816]

Matt: Please provide a close up photo of how your metal roofing is attached to the roof sheathing. Thank you!

[@165Dash]

Nice video. Roof looks very handsome. 2 items: 1) There was no mention of seam spacing. A black (I assume) aluminum roof will undergo quite a bit of heat related expansion and contraction and you will not want to have any “oil canning”. Seam spacing and material thickness impact this. 3) Matt mentioned 3/12 for his “lower” slope area but later your guest said 2/12. If I’m not mistaken, 3/12 is really the lowest you want to go on and metal roof that is not soldered or otherwise detailed to perform as a membrane that will essentially leak under some circumstances.

[@jerryc3828]

Some mechanically seamed metal systems can go as low as 1/12 pitch. Check w/ the manufacturer's details/ specs

[@manorin]

I bet Kyle at @RR Buildings would love that metal forming trailer

[@Dougie_trades]

I wonder if he will more to those cool vented ridge caps pieces

[@BLKMGK4]

My roofer had one and told me what it cost 10 years ago - it was NOT cheap! Coil of metal was over 100K too he said! Whipped a roof out fast though and was done in hours vs a full day - love it!

[@infiniteadam7352]

Im so going to make a architect watch all Matts videos on his own house to design my home! With the addition of a interior above ground tornado shelter!

[@somedude-lc5dy]

eh, matt isn't the best. he usually solves problems by doing the most complicated and expensive way. sometimes the slight gain for the increase in cost/efficiency isn't worth it. also, keeping all of the different shapes, dormers, level changes, etc, out of the roof will save your more time, money, and effort than anything matt does.

[@ericl5973]

Just outside of Austin city limits where some hail just hit recently. I would love to get a new metal roof with all the venting details. It would likely help with heat in the summer compared to my current asphalt roofing especially with my poorly insulated vaulted ceiling.

[@hatleyjm2000]

I'm trying to design a similar roof on my future house and like the idea of air ventilation under the roof. I had originally thought that furring strips would be the way to go but my roof will only be 1:12 and 2:12 pitch. Therefore I may use the ventilation underlayment mentioned in the video. Does anyone know if the roof can be walked on once the metal is installed? Or will it result in the roof deforming/bending because of the underlayment? Nothing lasts forever so someone will eventually have to get up on the roof--I just want to make sure it doesn't deform.

[@Nick-qm2qf]

I would appreciate an answer to this question as well

[@danielroden9424]

if water gets under the metal how does it flow out? it seems like the diagonal boards would soak it up and the drip edge would work to keep it under the metal.

[@johnc1256]

Looks like common sense to me. This roof is a disjointed conglomeration of good ideas that add up to a shit job.

[@tycoonmusashi123]

Wasps will love that drip edge spacer..

[@srt4b]

I just priced this September 2022 for a 55 square roof. $105,000 for the roof and $18,500 for the air gap framing details. An architectural shingle roof with full ice/water peel & stick came in at $38,000.

[@whatdaheck9667]

they were trying to rip you off ,ive been doing it for 16 years my current price material and labor 16" standing seam snap lock would be around 40k depending on the complexity of the roof

[@jeffvoight6586]

You and R&R buildings did a couple of shows about post and metal buildings. But, you do a lot of shows about perfect wall construction. With building supplies getting expensive, can you do an episode about how one might go about perfect wall in a post-frame steel building?

[@michaelambrosia]

I'm considering a similar roof insulation. I don't understand why you still need an air gap when everything is sealed up so tight...wouldn't you just make sure water can't get in by sealing the ridge cap? I don't see any way water can penetrate the metal roof and if you can keep it out, there is no need for air gap/venting right? I'm for being cautious, but I have to be able to justify the extra time and expense when I just don't see any way to trap water in there. Can you explain this more?

[@renaud6556]

I think it's because the metal roofing material causes condensation of the air from the outside which form water beads on the underside of the metal ?

[@terrydoyle1765]

If you're going to have any holes in the roof it should be for your solar. Check out Zilla for your solar penetration. S-5! have the best mounting brackets, good choice there.

[@goayala90]

great info! could you take a closer look at the details for the skylights? the example on my roof is more so how not to do it... also any recommendations on how to tie in once a metal roof is installed on high pitch area?

[@briarg1485]

the flashing on the skylights was done incorrectly on this roof as well

[@goayala90]

@@briarg1485 any details why/how?

[@gary24752]

If you use open cell spray foam insulation you are introducing moisture to the underside of the roof deck. If you use an ice and water underlayment that moisture cannot get thru the roof sheathing to be carried away thru ventilation. How are you then venting the roof to prevent degradation of the roof deck?

[@bellaherna1]

I started watching this video that you recommended but it ended up leading to more questions than answers :) - also - the way he is doing it is cost prohibitive!

[@gary24752]

@@bellaherna1 Try this one. Ventilation under metal roofs is important. You can pay me now or pay me latter in regards to what you do.

[@retiredperson4054]

Matt, I am looking to install a metal roof -- using steel or aluminum "shakes" -- I like your idea of allowing air-flow under the metal roofing. I also think that the 1x4 on a steep roof is quite clever and they 45 degree angle is an amazing twist.... Question = what was done at the eves and rakes with the 1/4? is there a product used at the eve to fit between the 1x4's or it that the plastic strips you show in the video that are nailed to the barge board prior to the install of the drip edge/caps? For the rake is there a 1x4 that runs parallel to the rake for the full length of the rake edge? Last question, how far apart are the 1x4's spaced? Great video -- I hope you see my questions and answer soon... Retired Person in KY

[@stacktier8257]

also curious about spacing, looks about 36"-48" on center

[@h2oespi541]

Heck yes on S5! Solar clamps, glad you are looking at clean energy for that already high performance house! -solar professional

[@BLKMGK4]

My county had never seen a solar install on a standing seam roof and wanted the installer to DRILL into my roof! My solar folk had to send out an engineer and set him straight - whew! The clamp right onto the seams - it's awesome! The conduit for the wiring - less awesome :(

[@bradgaeth]

@Matt Risinger You have mentioned a few times about limiting roof penetrations. It appears you have one pipe/flue penetrating the roof. What is that pipe for and what other design challenges did you have with the others pipes wanting access to the outdoors up top? What kind of compromises did you have to make to limit the number of penetrations?

[@YIQUANONE]

Why didn't "t you put the radiant barrier facing up where you installed diagonal 1x4s? Isn't that the 3/4" air gap side., or does the foil work when upside down too?.

[@evanbradow]

With a black roof and the obvious heat generated, have you thought about capturing the hot air during winter? Maybe it could be directed to a heat exchanger to heat your hot water or house? Might as well use it if you can since you've isolated it from your roof.

[@HelenaOfDetroit]

I wanted to learn more about that robot. Like, he teased it and then just glossed over it. I haz a sad

[@paperwait9611]

most people roofers hand swage the seams. when risinger referred to a "double lock", i don't know whether than means a 90 degree swage of 180 degree swage. both are labor intensive when done manually, with the 180 degree swage requiring 2 passes. in addition, hand swaging 24 gauge steel is difficult enough, but probably ridiculously difficult on an 8/12 roof pitch.

[@robertunversaw]

It’s called a power seamer. Not a robot though lol! www.stortz.com/product/freund-seaming-pro-preorder/

[@paperwait9611]

​@@robertunversaw it is a robot, which some people call a "power seamer". a robot is a machine that automates processes done by humans. the term "robot" is more commonly used in europe.

[@calliecooke1817]

Search electric standing seam machine. They've been around at least 35 years. So has the pan forming machine. About $4000.00 new for seamer.

[@OceanofMaya]

I recently did a metal roof - there's no way, given aesthetic parameters, I'd recommend installing anything else in the future.

[@lovescamaros1]

@Ganga Din you can get any color you would ever want and it's all personal preference but galvalume would look good on a farm-style build.

[@paperwait9611]

@Ganga Din do you think that asphalt shingles (which the vast majority of people have on their roofs) *don't* get hot?

[@paperwait9611]

black solar panels would actually blend in quite well.

[@OceanofMaya]

@Ganga Din Yeah, as Dave Wenzel said - you can get a huge range of colors. I have a friend who finished up, before lumber prices went ballistic, some multi-family (apts./condos) spec. 'houses' and the demand for that rough galvalume repurposed look far exceeded anything I could have imagined. But, as far as using metal - I'm a 100% convert and if you do it yourself the costs are not that much greater.

[@OceanofMaya]

@@paperwait9611 I don't think he was suggesting Asphalt shingles don't get hot - I think he was suggesting that in the realm of metal roofing black runs hotter. Many, perhaps all, major metal sales companies will say the same thing of metals - lighter colors are better in certain climates. Irrespective, one nice thing metal has over Asphalt is far less mass (something like 80% lighter)....I'm not sure what the construction sciences term is for it but a metal roof will 'shed' that heat MUCH faster.

[@evanmartin4107]

Would love to see a section view of this roof down to the first layer of sheathing, has to be 12 layers of materials?

[@JamesRibe]

Facing the radiant barrier towards the air gap is absolutely the right way to go, but I'm curious whether it's more effective to face toward the interior or the exterior. Both should work reasonably well since polished surfaces have low emissivity and high reflectance, but there are a ton of complicating factors that impact the effectiveness: * How much better the emissivity/reflectance is than the surface you're applying it to * Conductivity of the surfaces on the air-surface interface on both sides of the air gap * Size of the air gap * Reflectance/emissivity of the opposite surface

[@JamesRibe]

Looking into it further, it looks like you definitely want the radiant barrier facing toward the interior in a cooling climate. Low emissivity keeps the surface from transmitting radiation. High reflectance keeps the surface from absorbing radiation. Aluminized mylar has ~4% emissivity and ~97% reflectance. A white painted surface has ~90% emissivity and ~90% reflectance. So, put the radiant barrier on the side you want to stay hot. On the cold side, it's only a marginal improvement over white paint.

[@JamesRibe]

@@ARShirk the layer being in the darkness has little to do with its effectiveness. The advantage of a radiant barrier is low emissivity, meaning the hot surface behind the barrier will transmit far less heat inward via radiation than it would otherwise. OTOH, with a small air gap between the barrier and the rest of the roof, convection and conduction are likely to be the dominant modes of heat transfer anyway. You'd get much better mileage out of an assembly that has a large gap between radiant barrier and the rest of the envelope like a vented attic.

[@Dracounius]

@@JamesRibe i kinda wonder how the math really works out in practice, as if the emissivity/reflectance of Aluminized mylar is indeed 4%/97% would that not mean that potentially 4% of the heat would radiate towards the inside (inward-facing) compared to only 3% being absorbed (outward-facing)? But I would suspect the main difference (between the facing of the material) might come down to the behaviour of the air in the air gap rather than the emissivity or reflectiveness of the material. If the material is inward-facing heat removed due to air convection would be less likely to radiate inwards. While an outward-facing reflective material would potentially have to reflect more radiant heat from both the air and the roofing material, I would be interested to see the actual differences as the research i found on this was mostly looking at attic installation nut comparing different methods for roof installation

[@ergohack]

@@JamesRibeIf you put the radiant barrier on the peel-and-stick side, then the white underside of that roofing material he used could also act as a bit of a radiant barrier. Not sure how much difference that would make though. Figuring out how much heat gets absorbed between two radiant barriers reflecting back and forth is a bit too much for me at this time of day.

[@Dracounius]

@@davidg5010 of course the reflectivity of the foil is much higher than the emissivity, that is literally the reason why he installed it facing downwards. And if the numbers are wrong what are the numbers then?

[@michaelshettig7805]

Well done again. I have a design-build house coming up in east Texas and I'll present this type of roof to the owner. I'm more of a commercial contractor and your videos have helped me brush up on building houses. It's been since the '80s for me to build houses. I do have a series of videos coming that might fill some voids for people on the building of their homes. Design-build pre-construction, value engineering items. I start off with a series of structural failures and lessons learned for 4 successive weeks. The first video I just published is about a structural failure that resulted in 2209 lives lost. Informative and educational for us in the building industry. Just following Matt's lead, educational and informative.

[@JAW88]

Thank you so much for this video. We are moving to Texas and I am planning our self build barndo and this was very helpful for roofing.

[@Justusson]

More Metal Matt!! 😁 Great to see, construction and tips. Always happy to see some great metal work,.. 👍

[@MaxamillianStudio]

Hey Matt, Thank you as always. I wish you would have shown the detail on how the roof air flow mesh meets the upper wall. How do you use the corrugated plastic to allow the vapor from the roof to vent upwards?

[@apscoradiales]

vapours travel through the air space between the underside of sheet metal and the top of the membrane, then escape at the bottom of the assembly and at the top (soffit/ridge). There are continous vents at the soffit/fascia and at the ridge/junctions to vertical walls.

[@brada1803]

THANKS! I'm planning on metal (Southern California) DYI (I need to have this be my last roof)

[@ltsgarage7780]

How old are you???

[@emilianios]

Very nice prep work bfore the double seam roof Matt. 👍👏 To bad the double seam work is kinda porly done, not that final touch that we do all the time in northern europe. This looks lika a DIY job overhere sorry to say.

[@juliancate7089]

Great to see it coming together. Congrats.

[@txengineer]

can you explain how this type of roof handles hail? looks like it would easily dent

[@mikerichards1274]

Was zip sheeting used on the roof? Just curious as to why the use of shark skin was used of zip board was integrated in the build.

[@worawut2515]

when change to steel roof, does it has a loud sound when raining compare to another material?

[@usp211816]

I had a retrofit to standing seam in 2019. The roofer got a precut system and they shipped the wrong dripedge, the supplier was nice enough to come out and make it on site , those machines are pretty nice. The seamless gutter guys use the same material now so you can get a color match without much fuss. I have a high pitch roof and wish they would have warned me how slick it was going to be, its like a row of slides on your roof. If i had known i would have had them put in some permanent harness anchors. I went standing seam because not only was it time to replace the shingle but i was planning on putting solar on and i likeed the ridge mount system. No sense in putting 25 year solar on a 15 year roof.

[@christinedebellis9759]

If you do this vented drip edge detail, I can guarantee you that you will get condensation dripping out of the the Cor-a-vent in the north, and likely intermittently in the south too. You will see it running down the fascia and onto the surfaces below -- not a big deal if over plantings/grass, but it will be a call-back issue if there is a deck or other hard surface like a patio there. And no, the gutter will not catch this if you have not prepared for this. If you have prepared for this, you would need to add a Z-shaped "kick-out strip" made from the same metal as the roof that would get installed onto the fascial as the first step of the roofing process. This kick-out strip will direct this condensation that happens under metal roofs, into the gutter. It gets nailed onto the top of the fascia, and then taped into the roof deck before the Ice-and-water goes on THEN you do the rest of the roofing detailing as described in the video. "HOW DO I KNOW!?" I've made this mistake before!

[@unionrunner1]

What about issues with oil canning? We recently used a panel almost exactly like yours for exterior wall cladding, but we had a terrible problem with oil canning. What is best practice in regards to oil canning?

[@oldscratch3535]

There's really nothing to be done. Its just the nature of metal panels b/c of expansion and contraction. When we get metal panels the warranty information specifically says that there is nothing they can do about oil canning, it is not a defect, and it is not covered under warranty. Darker colors show oil canning more. The more vertical a panel, the more it shows as well.

[@donhuffer4637]

Great roof. But what the deuce? Black metal roof in Texas? Black?

[@ergohack]

Elsewhere in the comments he says he has an upcoming video on that.

[@BryanWidemon]

In east tx most roofs that blow off you see 1x4 under it catches wind but I’m sure this guy is nailing and screwing the metal down better

[@wjk94061]

@buildshow I've listened to this episode a few times. What is the lbs/sqft needed for this roof system? I see a sandwich of zip 5/8, 2x2" polyiso, zip 5/8, which is toped with peel-n-stick, batten strips, standing seam roof panels.

[@greendodge98]

I want to know what you did with the plumbing vents and other vents

[@iancormie9916]

Gang the vents together if you have to. You can then take them through the roof, the peak or gable ends depending on local building codes.

[@kathrynroberts2246]

How did you avoid roof penetrations for vents? What factor forced you to have the one vent in the back? Or were you able to consolidate all your vents into the one pipe?

[@Gaborkik]

Here in Europe we do a 2"x2" frame under ceramic tile roofing for ventilation. Although creamic/concrete tiles are preffered here over metal roofing, mostly because they damp noise better.

[@apscoradiales]

Also, more contractors are used to doing tile roofs than they are metal, hence the cost factor. yes, noise is a factor.

[@WB-zr7pq]

Been watching every step of the house, major house envy. Would love a website outline for each phase of this huge project. Everything all in one place and hopefully any blueprints your comfortable sharing. Can't wait to see the final house!

[@gary24752]

When you install the CorVent along the edge how are you going from vertical air flow to horizontal air flow when you have sides on the strip. The sides close off the air flow unless you rip the top edge at a 45 degree angle?

[@philleach6271]

Hi Matt. Any chance you viudo a follow up on the project that was having the Brombal windows being installed in the cast insitu concrete home?

[@jonnyde]

Can you install solar on that type of metal roof?? Nicely answered at 15:00

[@Bob_Lob_Law]

Yes. You can get clips that will clamp on the seams without putting any holes in them.

[@blogistics6009]

The roof looks great how many inches from standing seam to standing seam?

[@sandrakaliczynski4710]

Hi Matt I have a question. I live in Northern Ont. I have a 3 season log cabin kit. My roof is beams & tongue & groove boards on top. I have GAF membrane to cover whole roof. Can't afford spray foam. Can I use Rockwool Insulation under my metal roof? And if so what is the procedure?

[@bradheckel9694]

The cost is key decision factor. In the beginning cost was stated as one of goals of this video. Can you tell us the cost?

[@apscoradiales]

Costs vary depending on your location, size of the project, construction site access, moon phase, season...best thing to do, if you are doing a project, is to get a "budget estimate" from an installer in your area.

[@danielwenske1107]

Can you do an illustration of all the layers of your roof? Zip, foam, peal&stick, 1x4, air gap, Radiant, metal roof… oh my! That’s a lot of layers!

[@vloogle4924]

1. How does the mesh stay lofted when you screw the metal down? 2. How do you not destroy all of the benefits of the metal roofing by perforating it with screws?

[@calliecooke1817]

I was so happy to see someone actually doing true standing seam. I'm so tired of seeing carpenters call snap-lock standing seam. I hate your metal because it can't be soldered. But your crew is doing a great job. Everything I saw was up to or above current specks. BTW, we(tinsmiths) refer to the two sides of the panel as male/female. Thanks for the vid.

[@peterparker9286]

Snap lock is considered standing seam... But it is not a True Standing Seam metal All it has to do is have a standing leg to be considered standing seam.

[@calliecooke1817]

@@peterparker9286 I know. It's just that I have been putting on double-lock, batten seam(with true batten boards) and soldered common flat seam for almost 44 years. I used to work with Terne, mostly. I have done a lot of copper in 16, 20, and 24 ounce. I have done a lot of lead -coated copper and "Freedom Gray". Lately, I have been using a lot of Roof-in-Nox TCS. This is really a very superior product. I think the baked on factory finishes definitely have a time and place, but frankly, if the roof has penetrations and you can't solder the metal, it's junk. Just my old time tinsmith's opinion.

[@peterparker9286]

@@calliecooke1817 Nice You know what you B doing. What is this freedom Gray stuff ???

[@calliecooke1817]

@@peterparker9286 BTW, I should mention that I work in Washington, D.C. and get a lot of historical and government work that require SMACNA specs. Not everyone is so fortunate. Freedom Gray is a Revere Copper product. They started making it in response to EPA cracking down on lead. I believe it's a tin/zinc alloy coating instead of lead. Ages very uniform, nice looking architectual metal. Thanks for your replies. Peace.

[@peterparker9286]

@@calliecooke1817 RhineZink

[@hightower2537]

i look forward to the solar install

[@jimhendrix7776]

killing it dude!!!! youve deeply penetrated this vid!

[@EndlessWaltz]

Is this a good type of roof for mounting solar panels on? Building a house in southern Florida. Need hurricane proof shinanigans. Building icf as well. Top to bottom

[@oldscratch3535]

If you want hurricane proof, then 24g double lock standing seam with plenty of clips is really your only option here. This is a great roof system for mounting solar panels. The mounting solutions clamp onto the seams so no penetrations are needed through your roof to fasten them. Don't even bother with asphalt shingles if you want hurricane proof. You could probably do OK with a snap lock panel but I have seen them come off in hurricanes. A screw down 5-V panel is also pretty tough but you end up with tons of exposed fasteners and you're really relying on the expertise of the installer to fasten the screws properly so the gasket can seal. You also lose the bottom edge locking turn on the eve trim with 5-V so it doesn't have the same wind uplift rating as standing seam. Not really great for solar mounting either.

[@peterparkerlovesmj]

What about striations? On a previous video, it was stated how important it was to choose panels with striations but it looks like you chose a flat pan style. Do you have any opinions on this? I'm building my house soon and this would help me a lot in my choice of metal roof! Thank you!

[@briarg1485]

striations reduce oil canning, he would have had less oil canning if the would have double locked each panel before installing the clips and next panel. The difference is cosmetic

[@chelin7023]

Is it important to install the 1X4 in a diagonal position? Can they go horizontal as well? Would the orientation creates proper ventilation and drainage if needed? Please advise, my roof is going up and the 1X4 are going horizontal.

[@joebevf]

Question: I am on an island in FL 1/2 mile from the shore line. Roofers say I am too close to the salty gulf water for metal and must use 100% aluminum ( double the cost) It this true? What are my options?

[@directrue1742]

How wide are this panels 21"?? They look nice.

[@joshuaandersen4599]

Hey Matt, question about your Fascia boards. What did you use for your fascia boards? and what was the size?

[@j-tibz8299]

Would the air gaps in the roof make room for insects to make homes?

[@johnvalerian8440]

I’d be interested if you considered solar panel tiles?

[@buildshow]

I looked into that, but in the end I decided this was a better choice. It allows me to put the solar on when I’m ready and have the roof I wanted in the meantime. I also have some pretty good tree coverage so I’ve only got one spot over my master bedroom that will work with Solar

[@niklasxl]

@@buildshow on partially shaded ares micro inverter solar systems would work better :D

[@kennmuoki]

@@buildshow Hi Matt, are you pre-wiring your garage for electric car charging?

[@bryanmagdalensky5715]

Would the roofing that has 1x4s under it get dimpling where the voids are during a hail storm?

[@forsecurity1privacy]

The mention of 'clamp on' solar panel retention clamps poised me to ask... Do you need to plan and install more 'hidden roof hold down clips' on an area that may in the future be a location for solar panels? I'd hate to later install a solar array and then have the solar panels rip my Florida 100 year roof off in a hurricane.

[@oldscratch3535]

Probably not a bad idea. I suppose it would depend on how and where the wind is blowing. The solar panel could impart a lift force to the roof or it could impart a down force into the roof. I would think that considering how close the solar panels are usually mounted to the roof deck that they provide a down force when the wind blows (Think ground effect in F1 cars.)

[@Ed-jg3ud]

Matt, with lumber prices moving to insanely high levels are you feeling pressure to move towards ICF builds? Would be interested to hear your take on the lumber market impacting construction costs and how it is affecting your clients/builds.

[@percyfaith11]

How do you deal with the soil stack flashing on a metal roof?

[@brent1041]

Funny I just got a quote for a metal roof on my small 1000sqft rental house. Shocked the crap out of me at $22,500 for a super simple roof job. Looks like I’m gona wait a while to see if steel prices come down before deciding what to do.

[@oldscratch3535]

How big is the roof b/c the square footage of your house really doesn't tell me anything about the roof size? Its quite common for a metal roof, depending on material and type, to cost 3-5 times as much as asphalt shingles.

[@traceyjscott069]

Striation panels create a subtle airspace that works with Radiant Barrier well. The striations also help with inevitable hail that's going to hit that metal surface.

[@paperwait9611]

striations are not for creating an airspace or to hide denting. striations are for the purpose of hiding "oil canning". the best way to avoid dents is to use 24 gauge steel as risinger did.

[@traceyjscott069]

@@paperwait9611 True that striations were not originally designed to create air space or hail prevention. But no the less, it has been shown that striations does in fact greatly reduce hail dents and does create a slight air space. And since radiant barrier only needs a slight airspace to become effective, laying it down over the underlayment under the panels with a striated standing seam roof will reduce your heat gain. And if the hall is big enough a 24 gauge flat pan panel will show hail dents. I've seen it many times.

[@traceyjscott069]

It should also be noted that whenever you left a standing seam metal roof up on furring strips it does help with energy efficiency. But it also creates an environment where hail will have a greater chance of causing dents in the roof. So lifting the panel on furring strips and putting down a flat pan condition is the one application that will be the most susceptible to hail indentations. True 24 gauge metal will greatly help with that scenario. But 24 gauge is no guarantee you're not going to get hail dents.

[@paperwait9611]

@@traceyjscott069 it is true that venting a roof has *some* effect on "energy efficiency", but it is not substantial. the best way to "help with energy efficiency" is through the choice of roofing materials.

[@kevinJmadsen]

For a low slope patio cover, (.5" per foot) what is the best method for adhering fiber reinforce rolled roofing to the drip edge. The mastic I used previously let loose after a number of years, causing rain water to wick back and then under the drip edge. I'm not sure the polyurethane I purchase will adhere any better to the tar shingle roll roofing material.

[@roysonparsons3300]

Matt, good info as always! My next roof will be metal, so I’m very interested in the details. My biggest question here is why black? I’m assuming it’s an aesthetic choice, and I agree that it will be a good match with solar panels. But since it’s so sunny where you live, doesn’t black absorb more heat and increase the demand on your AC? I recently had a solar PV system installed and one of the considerations was that roof mounted solar panels are less efficient than ground mounts because heat gets trapped between the panels and the roof. Solar panels produce less electricity when they get hot. It would seem to me that having solar panels mounted on a black roof would exacerbate the problem. As always, I’m eager to be proven wrong...

[@oldscratch3535]

There really isn't that much of a temperature difference b/t the colors on metal roofs. They all get hotter than two rats f*cking in a wool sock. With all of the moisture and heat mitigation he has I highly doubt a different color choice would make any significant difference. If you're spray foaming the roof deck, then it definitely doesn't matter. Another problem with white or other light colors is how bright they are. If you've got an upstairs window that overlooks a white roof then be prepared to wear sunglasses in that room or have some damn good blinds and blackout curtains.

[@briarg1485]

You are 100% right, I recently installed a silver metallic roof for a client and the panels did not get hot. Yes the roof is bright when installing it, Matt could have gone without the reflective material had he used a lighter or reflective color

[@panamacitybeachbum]

Did it have oil canning?

[@robertbutler4272]

Matt how did you install radiant barrier on the steep slopes?

[@ergohack]

You're right. He didn't cover that at all.

[@TheMetalRoofingChannel]

I believe the radiant barrier was installed the same way as the low slopes, but with furring strips instead of the 3D mesh or dimple mat. The steep slope assembly looks like this: Sharkskin Ultra SA underlayment -> wood furring strips -> Sharkskin Radiant (shiny side down) -> metal panels. The roofers installed the roll of radiant barrier vertically while installing the metal panels at the same time across the roof. -Thad

[@chrisnorcross3322]

Aren’t you worried about the roof deck breathing? It seems like that could be the downside to ice and water shield in the whole thing

[@austinmarius850]

Hi Matt!! So did anything happen to your roof after the hail storm that just hit the Austin area? Any advice on what we should look for and do when we replace our shingle roof’s after a storm like that?

[@Theheardrecords]

Planning a 2:12 that has a 67’ run. Roofers are saying they can’t get panels that long. Is it common for roofers to have that machine cut on site? I’m in colorado. Other option is EPDM. Thanks!

[@00HiGhGuY00]

Yes it's common for those machines to form and cut the metal on site. They use the same machines (with different dies) to form and cut gutters on site. Those machines could most likely make extrusions in any length, only limited by how much metal is on the spool. The problem is the longer they get, the harder it is to move it, get it up in the air without damaging it. Perhaps, if you could the OK from the roofer, you could rent a telehandler and suspend the whole machine in the air at roof level and have it spit out the panels right onto the roof. If you end up going with a membrane roof, you should look into fluid applied membrane roofing systems. That is what I plan on using when I build my house, which will have a "flat" roof (technically 1/4:12 pitch). They are fully adhered and unlike most membranes, they are monolithic. Much less chance of leaking when you have no seems anywhere on the entire surface.

[@oldscratch3535]

The only way to run a panel that long is to either have a shit load of guys to catch and handle it or to suspend the machine to the roof line and lay out rollers for the panel to lay on. The roofers you are using probably don't own a panel machine, which is common. Most of us get them from a supplier and haul, or have them hauled to the job site so 67' is definitely out of the question for hauling. We don't own a panel machine so I can sympathize with your roofers. 67' isn't anything I'd want to handle. Honestly, if it was my roof I'd probably go with white or grey TPO b/c of the low slope. Its super easy and clean to install, very easy to patch holes or rips, fairly cheap, and you'll get at least 20 years out of it. When it needs re-roofing, you can just put down recovery board and go right over the old stuff. You can glue it all down or just use screws and plates at the seams. You can put down 2" isoboard insulation for better energy efficiency. All of the laps are heat welded. I'd wager that every Wal-Mart you've ever been in has a TPO roof.

[@Theheardrecords]

@@oldscratch3535 thanks, yeah I was sold on Black TPO but having trouble finding someone to do it. Building boom...

[@Theheardrecords]

@@00HiGhGuY00 Thanks, do you have a product name for the fluid applied?

[@00HiGhGuY00]

@@Theheardrecords There are several companies that produce a fluid applied roofing system. The 2 I can recall at the moment are Sika and Kemper System. Matt actually has a video on his channel of Kemper system. It's an older video, but just search, you should be able to find it. Also, there are several other videos on youtube showing these systems.

[@charliexu1099]

I have watched this a couple times before making decisions for my own house renovation. Questions: 1. Is it a concern to use regular 1 x 4 instead of pressure treated for the spacers? I know it has the ability to dry because of the air space, and Austin probably doesn't have that much rain. Would it be a concern in Northeast US? 2? when screwing in those 1 x 4 to the rafters, i don't see the screw holes being liquid flashed. Would that be a problem in future?

[@jerryc3828]

The pressure treating chemicals in the 1x4's may very well be a corrosive issue to the metal roofing panels

[@jeaxre1307]

For anyone who is wondering: Matt is indeed right. It doesn't matter which way you put on the radiation barrier, as long as the reflective side faces the air gap. At first I thought he put it on the wrong way, so I looked it up. An ideal reflective body (which does not exist) will neither absorb, nor emit any thermal radiation. In his case, the radiation barrier will get hot due to thermal conduction, but it will not radiate into the air gap, because of the highly reflective surface. This even works the other way around, because any thermal radiation coming from the inner part of the roof will be reflected back. The air gap itself however will do almost nothing to remove heat by ventilation. There is so much friction due to the small size of the gap, that there will be no meaningful air flow. That's why it is smart to use a radiant barrier, because this way the air gap can provide at least some thermal insulation.

[@january2568]

Which contractor did your installed? I might need them.

[@RJ-sr5dv]

Humm, I missed it if he talked about it, Why put the furring stops on a angle? I thought Matt’s house had igloo type ridged insulation, something like 2” on the roof? Would like to see the detail on the underlayment fasteners they screwed thru the rigid insulation

[@billvojtech5686]

Furring on an angle because if they were parallel with the ridge, they would block air flow from drip edge to ridge, trapping moisture. With it on an angle air flows up to the ridge vent.

[@RJ-sr5dv]

@@billvojtech5686 Bill thanks for that reply. I guess what I was thinking is that the moisture created daily from condensation will lay up against the up slope edge of the furring strip which will rot. In my home state of Florida I've seen wood shake roofs rot in as little as a year because of trapping moisture. Best practice here is to have a lattice work of furring strips. The bottom layer is vertical and the top is horizontal. I guess you could protect the furring strips on a 45 by some sort of protective coating or by using PT wood but I bet Matt is going to an issue before too long. This will be interesting to follow.

[@dznnf7]

Hi, I'm Matt Risinger, and here's my one-hundred-thousand-dollar, ten-layer roof!

[@paperwait9611]

risinger is using his remodel as a kind of sponsorship showcase for different product vendors to display their wares. unlike some, i personally have no objection to it. infomercials can provide useful information.

[@bearfoot100]

Great Video. Have you ever looked at Decra steel roofing?