Matts Garage - Rover V8 oil pump part 1

I was about to fit the timing cover to my 4.6 litre Rover V8 and realised the oil pump drive was seized solid, so it was time to start pulling things apart! Naturally it didn't go to plan.
This sums it up: 'Drink beer, come back tomorrow' stickers and Ts goo.gl/2aev7w
Furious Driving is on Patreon now! Can you spare a dollar to keep this channel going? / furiousdriving Thanks!
www.furiousdriving.co.uk for stickers, mugs, T shirts, travel mugs and more plus lots of car models, toys and books
Furious mug: rdbl.co/2FuZvJL

[@michaelvincent1425]

Oh yes, bi metallic corrosion, love it! They carried that little trick into the Land Rover line up. Brings back memories of the tail gate handle on my old Freelander, had numerous fun afternoons sorting that one. Lots of penetrating oil and patience needed.

[@furiousdriving]

I didnt know Freelanders did that, I had one a while ago but part exchanged it while only the gearbox was dodgy

[@peterparris3056]

You can prime the pump with a homemade tool down it the the dizzy hole on the the the oil pump shaft

[@drewmog123456]

I think you should use a penetrating oil. WD40 is a water dispellant not a lubricant.

[@weldingempire]

Quality is way better brother. 👍

[@TheFakeRussian]

Oooooo I was cringing when you were trying to knock the cogs out BEFORE applying a freeing agent. The gunge in there was going to make things difficult at best and a catastrophic disaster at worst. Get some PlusGas, it's brilliant stuff and far superior to WD40 and GT85. With regard to freeing the cogs, a good soak then using a metal punch and metal hammer, (take that look of horror off your face), put a small metal plate against the end of one of the rear teeth first then nice gentle taps to get them moving. The reason for using a metal plate, punch and hammer is the shock will travel down to the cog through the plate and help dislodge the crap to get them moving and the plate will take any of the dings that might occur. If that doesn't work, put a socket or something over the drive shaft to protect the end and again nice taps to get the shock of the strike to help dislodge the crap. If you have a big enough G-Clamp, that could also work but put a large socket over the cogs so it'll spread the weight, (use a bit of cardboard to protect the edges of the housing), and apply pressure to the shaft. Yes it's all a bit brutal, but you have to remember whatever the crap is, it'll be far softer than the metal so it'll dislodge and start to move long before you start to damage any of the metal parts if it's had a good soak in a freeing agent first.

[@furiousdriving]

It was only a gentle tap! I was really hoping it would just dislodge and come away (and doing something like that gets comments and the algorithm loves that!) I was really hoping the Id be able to make more progress on this, and planned to do the video as a full rebuild and hadn't counted on it all being b*gg*r*d, but even stuck in place those pump gears look really rough. For the cost of a new set its not worth not swapping them (considering what the machine work has cost so far). Im going to keep on soaking it and hope that frees it, I don't want to be putting too much force on an aluminium part

[@TheFakeRussian]

@@furiousdriving Double sided tape and cardboard then maybe a cloth to protect the casing. You''re not going to stress the shaft casing because it's designed to take a lot of stress from the shaft rotating and maybe offering a bit of a wobble

[@peterparris3056]

You cam shaft turns your dizzy and then turns you oil pump shaft