You can clock the time it takes your table to traverse its x travel. By timing how long it take for x axis to travel (x amount of inches). A pinch of napkin math and knowing the travel distance will let you figure out your powerfeed's speeds for each gear. Then you can begin to calculate proper speeds and feeds for the part your working on.
@jasonwood6570Ай бұрын
Dude you dont need a a way to gauge your surface finish, you just need to use a flycutter properly. You are doing your best to carve grooves in that block. I cant comprehend how you could think that spinning something that slow with that ridiculous feed rate could ever work. A profiometer would not even tell you anything as they dont measure that rough. Its like plow marks in a field
@cattle_dogАй бұрын
Your RPM is way to slow for the feed rate. The scalloped toolmarks are stepover lines. The high point of the ridges are the area being skipped due to table travel speed. Lower feed rate and higher rpm will produce a much better surface finish on that machine. Also the inserts on that flycutter are not optimal geometry for that material. Likely a shallow depth of cut finish pass with low feed rate and high rpm (not higher than that tool is rated) will get you where your going. Also dragging a chip is the enemy in this situation, compressed air blasting the chips while taking the cut at lower feed rate should help chip welding. Untill you get a surface roughness tester a surface finish comparator will get you close enough and can be had on fleabay for song and dance.
@kalamazooenginemachineАй бұрын
Very good input. The video I did before this one; I did 600 RPM at half the speed, in which it wasn’t taking a full chip. I have a 12” Aluminum Flycutter to use on the next video which I’m aiming for tonight. I’ll get the rpm’s in the 1100s ( the next speed up on my mill ) and we should see how that does too. I’m not expecting anything much because my spindle is a weak NMTB 30 and my table has dovetail ways; I’ve been told no matter what we will get vibration issues etc. As far as the geometry of the insert, I have 2 cartridges, one is positive rake at 6* but we didn’t use that one, we used the no rake I believe ( but that is the geometry that comes on a comec/rottler/robins stuff to my knowledge. Rngn 43 1/2” stuff. You tell me tho , I’m not an engineer, I’m just lucky to demo these flycutters and entertain the viewers and burn up tool😋👍.
@cattle_dogАй бұрын
@@kalamazooenginemachine Trial an error is a tested method for success. You can achieve a lot with less than optimal machines. The old saying " A good machinist can produce great work on junk machine, and a bad machinist can't do good work on a great machine." With older machines they all have flaws, the key is to be aware of the flaws and work around them. I can see that your forced into that position on the table by the radius of the cutter. It could be worth it to move the head forward a bit and rotate the head to the right to get the cutter further to the right of the table increasing your work envelope with such large tooling will allow you use the sweet spot on the travel. Figure out how flat your table is and if it has a section of travel that holds a tighter tolerance than maybe the very center of the table, which is often the spot to avoid on older well used machines. I would sweep the table with an indicator in all directions and mark its deviations and work around them. The Y axis also likely has a sweet spot as well. By finding the y axis sweet spot and moving the head out or back to center on that sweet spot could help out. The further back you move the head the more rigidity you get so long as you can still reach your work envelope. Lock down everything except the x axis to increase your rigidity. Lock the spindle and the Y axis and knee. Tighten the x gibs a little. Tighten all tilt/nod bolts on the head and lock the ram column and anything else that could introduce play or vibration. Stuffing the head your surfacing with shop rags could reduce vibration on the part itself. When I ran manual mills I would always tram in the machine before taking any cut of consequence or on a part with a lot of hours. Having fun yet?
@cattle_dogАй бұрын
Also as far as your idea of doing one part in a conventional milling style and then coming back on the second part from a climb milling direction will shake your machine and create a terrible surface finish. Another thing is that the cutter is much too big for the job. So much of the tool is in rotation prior to engaging in the cut. You will have a much better surface finish is you make a fly-cutter and grind and hone an hss bit. CBN and carbide need to take a serious chip to get best performance. Your machine cant handle that well so using hss tooling and taking a light cut with a sharp bit will get much better results that that big tool if both were used in correct setups with appropriately dialed speeds and feeds.
@randombiopod7384Ай бұрын
thanks cattle dog, very informative
@whiplashmachineАй бұрын
I resurface blocks and cylinder heads. Aluminum and iron aswell as aluminum with iron sleeves. Our typical automotive fly cutters are 12"-14" and CBN is our main tool and we rev high. Mine spins around 1000rpm. Our depth of of finishing cuts are 0.001"+/- couple tenths and we easily achieve 15-20ra, over and over.
@kalamazooenginemachineАй бұрын
@whiplashmachine in a following video, I switch up to the 12” aluminum flycutter, which the machine likes a lot more than the steel 14”. We also switched to a 3/8 round PCD insert, rev at 1000rpm at 9.25” min (fast as she goes). That was only a few days ago, and I think it made the best finish so far. In that video I test 600 rpm also at 7.25” min. And discuss some chip size math. I want to take samples to RA test so I just know what they are. It would be cool to have one on the show; which I’m trying hard to borrow one for a night. Thanks for watching 🫡
@georgedreisch26622 ай бұрын
On y’all’s dowels y’all using for cylinder support, what if y’all drilled and tapped and used a set screw in place of the dowels? Just a thought…
@kalamazooenginemachineАй бұрын
Yes sir that is a great idea. 👍 I would need aluminum threaded dowels, which I will look into soon. Thanks for the suggestion 🫡
@acrodusterАй бұрын
Is that a johnson block, like evenrude even?
@acrodusterАй бұрын
Neverind the bell housing is wrong.
@kalamazooenginemachineАй бұрын
It’s ok 👍 Subaru EJ block 🫡
@kennyrmurrayАй бұрын
You need to slow that feed down. Mine does a nicer job then that 😝
@kennyrmurrayАй бұрын
That price is ridiculous! I just lost interest. I was thinking about 500 not 9 good grief!