The lathe washer-or a new way to clean your ways way too clean.

[@JanBinnendijk]

I used a similar method on the CNC Mill i used to run.. but "hosing it down" with Coolant just after machining brass or bronze works just as well.. i mounted a quick-release hose to the Coolant supply before the ball valve so i could shut off the coolant nozzles.. On my lathe i have a second coolant line, which i can clamp to a magnetic base, but when cleaning the machine, i take it out of the clamp and hose down the machine.. then dry it with a rag before turning brass or bronze..

[@OgiveBC]

@@JanBinnendijk Ya, I figured guys must be doing something like this, just so tempting. The separate line and quick connect would be very useful. Maybe I’ll try with one of those pigtail coil style hoses. Really just an air blowgun nozzle might work too. The flow through brush does allow for some good scrubbing action on those places hard to get with a rag. Thanks for the comment, appreciate it.

[@JanBinnendijk]

@@OgiveBC If you regularly hose down the machine.. there's no need even for a brush, as you will flush away all the chips before the coolant evaporates and the Chips get stuck..

[@OgiveBC]

@ I’m in a rather strange situation in that I apply oil to most surface of the machine to try and keep ahead of the rust, so I end up with a strange sort of accumulation at times. The shop is very damp at times and I haven’t figured a better way to keep ahead of the rust than good old oil.

[@JanBinnendijk]

@@OgiveBC My workshop luckilly is not very damp.. and i apply a light coat of petroleum to keep rust at bay.. that dissolves easily in the Coolant.. preventing sticky chips..

[@camillosteuss]

And that is why i recommend using oil as coolant... No need to ever bother with drying the machine, with potential coolant creeping into crevices and rusting the surfaces where it can remain unseen for long enough to it`s deviltry... Plus - oil don`t go bad, nor does it really suffer from additional way oil that it washes off... You just change it after a while, but it doesn`t go rancid nor does it ever really stop shielding from rust, plus, the chucks can now be bathed in ``coolant`` and neatly ignored thereafter, as they won`t rust from it... I know that emulsion is a better coolant in thermal sense, but flood oil reduces friction and thus reduces the need for cooling to a degree, plus it offers better surface finish for the same reason... Literally the only ``flaw`` of oil as coolant is the fact that it is lesser in regards to active cooling it can provide, but on the other hand - it does not generate fucking steam and moisture in a shop, but oil vapors, which neatly coat the whole shop and all the machined surfaces that are not behind a hermetic seal... And if you want to say that that is bad, as you inhale oil fumes - motherfucker, are you aware that you are inhaling micro particles of whatever stock you are machining whenever you do it dry? That you inhale so much different crap in a shop that you should by all means wear a full face mask with filters whenever you are working in the shop anyway, especially when machining inox or chrome rich alloys(hot work helps hexavalent chromium to be released, and if you don`t know why that is bad - think zinc fume fever but Erin Brokovich...)... I know that this turned into a schizo rant, but alas, such is the way of things... You get the point, what is said was said in a figurative manner rather than being meant as an insult, yet what was said stands from the technical standpoint... I do get feisty about ``shop safety`` as it is a PSA worth putting out there, but i have written literal essays on that topic in comments when it was appropriate to do so, so just the thought of being told that oil fumes are bad - in an environment that offers so much MORE BAD is kind of a thing that i want to dodge straight away... It`s kinda like saying to someone with a few weeks to live that something is dangerous - like, no shit sensei, teach me more, oh wise one... Plus, you can always filter that gucci through a cigarette - works like a charm... Also - which oil? - hydraulic non-detergent oil if you wanna give the old girl the best... The same that an olden automatic lathe would use... Anyways, let`s cut that rant short... Good work, nice to see a machine operator that is also a care-taker aswell, given that these machines deserve the fucking best, being that they were made to outlast humanity if someone is willing to take care of them properly... Best regards! Steuss

[@OgiveBC]

@@camillosteuss wow. Thanks. I subscribed to your channel. I’ll try and watch a some of your videos. I started on your second one, will watch others later. I think I agree to a large extent with most of what you said in the comment. I have a few thoughts, which is a great excuse to try a few things and perhaps make a video about it. Again, thanks for the comment.

[@camillosteuss]

@@OgiveBC Anytime, i`ve seen your levels and bits ramble a few days ago, i thought i subscribed, but it either didn`t go through or i just forgot to... Either way, you got a sub here too... For now my channel is minimally focused on actual machining, but we`ll get there at some point... If i recall, my first like 5 videos are the Habegger lathe... That is a damn fine machine... A bit small(work envelope) despite the footprint, but a really nice machine for small to medium sized parts... Also a major counterpart for the Charmilles sinker - the lathe forms the electrodes and the Charmilles sinks them... She is more of a machining center than a lathe - even as she is now, she just lacks the accessories required for mill-turn machining... But alas, i`ll shut up now, i don`t want to write a small essay just rambling... Speaking of the oil and machine maintenance - oh yeah... Oil is just the best - no nonsense, no moisture, no degradation(well, there is chem. deg, but no scum generation)... Plus, the oil heats up and warms up the whole machine nicely, rather than steaming away... It retains more heat in itself and passes it onto the machine itself, which after a while results in an evenly heated machine where everything remains at essentially constant temperature and thus aids the precision to a degree(having an oil warmer would help with that, just heat up the oil and let the flood oil wash over the machine and stock, plus warm up the headstock by idle running for half an hour before work)... Best regards! Steuss

[@ypaulbrown]

Outstanding❤

[@peterhadfield873]

Clever :-)

[@Calligraphybooster]

Good idea, but I find what I see at 3:37 VERY disturbing. Please don’t film before you have removed the eyelet from your chuck! Remember: There are amateurs watching, they might learn a very bad practice.

[@OgiveBC]

Hmmm, oh I get it, you’re joking right?

[@Calligraphybooster]

No sir, I am not. Don’t you see the danger of an eyelet revolving at a few hundred rpm’s?

[@OgiveBC]

@@Calligraphybooster. No revolving in the video, just cleaning.

[@OgiveBC]

@@Calligraphybooster I can remake the video, what about the gloves I’m wearing are those ok?

[@OgiveBC]

@@Calligraphybooster at time stamp 3:18 I say “I’m going to swap that chuck out”, right when the eye bolt shows up.