May 18, 2022 Update

[@isaacwachob9092]

If having the man power is a problem, have you thought about contacting a trade school nearby (if you have one)? Some schools require hands-on experience.

[@theanimerailfanthehagersto1280]

Nice Rick Nice to hear that everything's ok Can't wait to see 57 and 60 in operation

[@douglasengle2704]

A feature video with steam locomotive preparation for work and unique filming angles along running along the rails would be a very nice addition to the KZbin film library on North American 2-ft gauge heavy haul railroads, because there really are not any others. I'd think drawing inspiration from the UK Welsh Highlands 2-ft gauge slate hauling railways would be good source of video techniques and story telling.

[@randyclyde4939]

Wow! What a great and informative update! I'm worn out just watching. You have way more energy than I. Your vision and forward thinking is amazing. Thanks for another great video! I can hardly wait for the next one!

[@OldIronVideo]

You should make the windows on the passenger car be able to be opened for summer days

[@YoungstownSteelHeritage]

It will be an open air car in the summer. Looking to make up windows so we can use the car in the winter but haven't even started on that yet.

[@OldIronVideo]

@@YoungstownSteelHeritage sounds like fun I also suggest taking a look at the cars at cedar point they are a nice desgin but the pin and loop have alot of slack

[@alcopower5710]

Really like your vision. Thanks for the update 👍

[@thestuffz]

wow has this ever come along since last time I caught up on your videos! Someday I will make it out there! lol

[@stephenciszewski3564]

I like your vision for the future.

[@midwestmodelrailroadworkshop]

Awesome progress! Love seeing the updates come along! Keep up the great work!

[@SuperAWaC]

6:41 If you just bend some frogs out of regular rail, you can do a normal switch because you have points right there.

[@rich7934]

Wonder if you need to change those coupler/buffer faces to a domed oblong version? Similar to what the British used on their industrial shunters (I think they were twice as wide as they were tall), that should give you the ability to use them on your tight curves, but the chain bars will have to be made wider. Probably could use old plow disks as a material source and just cut them oval. Keep up the great work.

[@gravelydon7072]

To solve the gauge problem of two different gauges, use the narrowest back to back wheel spacing. Use the guard rails to rub against the back of the flanges. On the wing rails, leave the bigger gap so that when a narrow set of wheels go thru, they are pulled off the point of the frog. When a wider set of wheels go thru, the guard rails will keep the flanges from picking the point of the frog. Yes it will be a bit rougher operation as the gaps between the frog and the wing rails will be wider but not by much. The same problem exist in the US with 1.5" scale equipment as the two gauges are 7.25 and 7.5 inch. At least with 1 5/8th" scale equipment, the 7.5" gauge is correct. Which also works for 2.5" scale for 3' gauge full size equipment and also 3" scale for 30" gauge full size equipment. If 2' gauge equipment was modeled, them 3.75" scale also is correct on 7.5" gauge track.

[@YoungstownSteelHeritage]

This is not possible as the Carpenter cars have very narrow wheels and reducing the back to back distance would cause problems with those wheels falling into the frog. Due to those small wheels we have to control gauge fairly tightly so that they don't drop inside. Each of the Porters will be regauged as time permits to the standard back to back distance.

[@Gin-toki]

That passenger car looks great :) A question: Are you planning on making a siding on the main line to allow two trains to pass each other? And are you planning on having any method of turning a train/wagon around, like on a turntable or loop track?

[@USASteamProductions]

There is a siding in the works for trains to pass each other but for right now when it's done he will put 57 and 60 to that siding.

[@Gin-toki]

@@USASteamProductions Ah, I thought it would be a blind siding.

[@YoungstownSteelHeritage]

If things go as planned eventually there will be a loop and a passing siding. But that is down the road a ways.

[@s16100]

Wow, you are ambitious. That is awesome that your going to make your own frogs. I can't imagine you can't just grind down rail to make switch points, but a stub switch will be cool too. I feel bad that you have to do most of this yourself. But I am glad you do. For myself, it is awesome what your doing.

[@YoungstownSteelHeritage]

I get help on the weekends, but generally for some things I love working as a "one man gang". Been doing it for so long that its just second nature to figure out ways to do things by myself.

[@s16100]

@@YoungstownSteelHeritage Actually I can relate to the "one man crew" thing. Well keep up the great work! I will get out there sometime in person, but for now sadly my life and work don't afford me the ability to drive out here. But I will keep supporting you with membership. Can I ask where you get coal from? I bought a ton in Oct. of Kentucky Bituminous here and it had jumped to over $400 a ton. :( I need a cheaper source for bituminous.

[@timeflysintheshop]

Besides welding up a ramp on the worn rail, you could easily grind down some of the tall rail too. A little off the top of the taller one, will save a lot of welding on the shorter one so the ramp you need to add is much reduced!

[@lawnmowerdude]

That’s one way to do it but I was told you always modify the older rail. That way if you change out the older rail at a later date you don’t have a new problem.

[@YoungstownSteelHeritage]

The standard procedure is to build up the worn rail so that when the worn rail is replaced it matches up with the new. I will do the same since when the 70 is replaced with heavier rail someday it will match up.

[@m611martin]

See you and the railroad in June!

[@jasonwhitler4167]

I'm sure you figured this out, but make sure you have a nice long section of straight track on the moving side of the stub switch. Short rails and curves make the switch extremely difficult to throw.

[@YoungstownSteelHeritage]

Yeah for sure. Especially when there is a 40 ton block of iron sitting on the end of the movable section!

[@jasonwhitler4167]

@@YoungstownSteelHeritage that could just make things even more fun! Regardless I'm sure the stub switch will be a good source of entertainment when you have new volunteers try to throw it.

[@PRR5406]

Rick, whatever you take for vitamins, I want some. Man, you get stuff done in short order.

[@Brian_rock_railfan]

Awesome video update

[@kevinmacomber1336]

If I may, you may be better off shimming the bottom of the 70lb rail to meet the height of the 100lb rail. This would be an easier approach and give a smoother transition. BTW, great job you are doing there.

[@happyhome41]

I'm sorry if I'm asking you to repeat yourself -- why are the air brakes "so much better" than steam power ? All this fun vocabulary . . . What is a point ? What is a frog ? What is a stub switch (and differentiates it from a "regular" switch) ? What is a transfer table ? Absolutely love your years of explanations and "making it work" - every kid's dream. Stupid question, are y'all anywhere near (or how far away) the restoration of Reading 2100 ? I could see convincing my wife we need to ride J&L and see 2100. If not this summer - definitely next.

[@alexprocyk8805]

I can take this one. Steam has too much water in it. Well, technically it's all water, so there are corrosion issues when it condenses through the brake line., Which it will do because the line is cold at the start and goes cold at the end of the day. Plus steam brakes need a steam line off the loco with all that headache, also removing working steam from the loco. Air brakes are easier and cleaner.

[@YoungstownSteelHeritage]

The one major drawback is that the brake cylinders leaked water onto the rails, which had the effect of diminishing braking force. Braking force was also dependent on the boiler pressure, the lower the pressure the less brakes you have. It is also impractical to have steam brakes on the cars as the steam would turn to water by the time it got to the last car.

[@happyhome41]

@@YoungstownSteelHeritage Thank you both - the practical aspects of a mountain railroad. Next, the vocabulary lesson ?

[@1bryanh1]

Looking slick! Keep up the good work!

[@raymondleggs5508]

that actually looks a bit like the passenger car the German trucks and couplers came off of!

[@kennethbean1587]

What are you doing with the boxcar brake gear? The Nebraska Railroad Museum could use them for their car.

[@YoungstownSteelHeritage]

Everything has either been sold, repurposed or scrapped.

[@kennethbean1587]

@@YoungstownSteelHeritage darn

[@weekendrailroader]

A stub switch in 70lb rail? What's the largest rail size a stub switch has been built in?

[@christoffsuron4143]

hello and congratulations on your work it is a treat to see your videos I have a question what is the gauge of the railway track in centimeters? 50 cm or 60 cm I practice the narrow route 50 cm decauville thank you very much christophe from pays basque france

[@YoungstownSteelHeritage]

24" or 60 CM

[@christoffsuron4143]

@@YoungstownSteelHeritage thank you j&l ngr ! they are very nice locomotives

[@jacobramsey7624]

Can you still run the locomotive tenderless?

[@bdvids7930]

Cool!!

[@matthewbaker9601]

I have 100 30 foot narrow gauge rails to get rid of

[@xyyx7559]

Loved it

[@oldnstillworkin5709]

What’s a stub switch?

[@iaincaillte3356]

Instead of the rails being tapered as in conventional point switches, the ends of all the rails are cut off square. Hence the name, "stub" switch.

[@locorimax]

Why the road it's still rusted?