Mayflower 988 Tire Changer 680 Balancer

[@johnmcintire8030]

What would be the ceiling height requirement for this? The area in my shop for a machine is only about 84" from floor to ceiling.

[@mrmotofy]

Mayflower 988 Tire Changer (950 with 2 helper arms) Deliveries require a forklift to unload at a business OR pay for Residential delivery + $150 For clarification the 560 is the smaller unit up to about 18” rims has the square tube rear upright and requires assembly of the bead breaker. Air needs: Suggest a compressor with 4CFM @ 90psi or higher as the bare minimum. Higher the cfm at 90 the more air they put out and fill tanks faster. If you have a small tank, get an air tank from Marketplace and Tee in the line with at least 3/8” line and short as reasonably possible. I've seen 5-10gal tanks for $10-$20. Use a quarter turn ball valve to bypass the tank etc. You can also double up compressors ideally with the same pressure switch settings. Air just flows through the lines and doesn't really matter where it comes from. The 950 is the larger up to 22” rims, has the “Bead Blaster” and main rear upright is a round cylinder air tank. There's also the options of the 2 helper arms the #232 unit making the #988 unit. The other #300 with the black additional upright with 2 round pipe arms on it with a disk, making the #960. The Mayflower 988/680 pair can fit tight in a space about 80” wide IF the Balancer is turned sideways so shaft is out facing you. Other arm options will need more space. The 988 (950 changer with 2 extra arms) is about 45” deep. I used casters on the 988, Harbor Freight #62276 3” locking 100lb. NEED (QTY 8) regular 1/2”-20 nuts (ORDER or get at a regular hardware store. Home stores don't stock them but can order some). Unit is at or over the max weight of the casters so user beware. Remove rubber foot on bottom, just pops out. Install 1 nut all the way down on caster then insert up through hole and install 2nd. Caster shaft needs a spacer so could use 1/2” flat washers too instead of the first nut. Foot bracket is upside down U channel. 1 Upgrade I added was a 1/4” NPT street elbow to the main airline input on the regulator after removing the factory Japanese style fitting the US doesn't use. That allows the air hose to hang down when connected instead of straight out the back. Then used a 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” hose barb to a 6' section of hose for a whip to move the connection out where it's convenient. That way it's easy to connect when using. Then I added a 1/4” NPT quarter turn valve so machine can be disconnected without losing all air pressure in case air supply line is needed etc. Another upgrade I did was added a higher volume airline. The “Bead Blaster” is almost a joke and SLOW. If you see the size of airline and the regulator it runs through you'll understand. I've seen a few add a line at the Regulator. That technically does work but doesn't have the flow capacity I desired. So I added a line to the tank(rear upright). Remove the included Tee for the gauge. Tank bung is 1/4” NPT so I used a Milton s-646 1/4” NPT Hex nipple into the bung using 4 layers of Teflon Tape on all connections. Then I used a Milton s-655 Brass 1/4” NPT Tee which has 3 Female fittings. One end screws onto the previous nipple so the middle connection is centered and angled down and back a little. The included Tank gauge Tee then screws into the other end of the new Tee. Then the middle is a port for a new hose to connect Using a male 1/4” NPT fitting like Milton s-602 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” ID hose barb and a hose clamp etc. I cut about an 8' chunk of another 3/8” ID air hose. I strongly suggest not using 1/4” hose. Then a quick connect fitting on the end. I use and highly recommend the High Flow Milton Type V couplers. You can use a regular air chuck or make a little “bead blaster” that runs way better. Use a quick connect fitting then a quarter turn 1/4” valve then a short section of hose and an air chuck that locks on. This is a much higher volume short hose feed off the tank. Smaller and more hose length are restrictions. You can now swap chucks and fill higher psi tires and a higher flow bead blaster. But care must be taken using the new bead blaster as it's got straight tank pressure. So use carefully and once bead pops insert valve and use a gauge to fill properly. The Milton fittings are examples and not required it's all basic plumbing fittings available at any plumbing dept. As a later addition I also added another Tee off the bottom of the Milton s-655 Tee, with a hex nipple between them. That gives a port for a Milton V quick disconnect which has a hose whip for filling/beed setting. As well as a 2nd port with a hose off it running to a hose whip that I keep a 5gal portable air tank connected to. It keeps the tank filled for use any time and gives more total volume at the changer. The tank I got off FB Marketplace for $10. But removed the factory fitting which is 1/2” NPT and added a 1/2” Cross with a gauge, Quick coupler and ¼ Turn valve with a male quick connect to fill. 680 Balancer Options/Upgrades Will also need a 15” Steel car rim and tire to calibrate, ideally NEW. NOT an alum or trailer rim Many truck rims will need an additional adapter cone with 5.5” diameter that's sold separately for balancing. The largest included cone is like 4 1/4” Dia. For best results the 680 Balancer, should be anchored to floor. Don't just bolt down unless floor is perfectly level where unit sits. Base is bolted down with (3) 3/8” threaded anchor bolts ideally with 2 1/2” of threads sticking up to level with. Method is below. I wasn't ready to anchor yet so leveled with 3 3/8” x 2 1/2” hex bolt, 6 3/8” flat washers, 6 3/8” nuts. A small thin rubber piece size of a tire patch works good on floor to help keep from walking across floor. Install a nut on the 3/8” bolt approx 1/16” from head of bolt, then a washer. Insert bolt FROM BOTTOM UP through holes on bracket then install 2nd washer and 2nd nut loose, then do same to other 2 holes/bolts. The lowest nut can be adjusted up and down to raise and lower the machine bracket sitting on it. Use a 2nd wrench as needed to hold the hex head while adjusting nut up/down. Use a 24” level on the side of the case to adjust till plumb side to side and front to back. Don't use the plastic tray on top, there's no way to know if it's level to anything. Use the base sides. Then when height is good tighten down the top nut to keep height. 1 wrench holding bolt head 2nd on top nut tightening. Essentially the machine bracket is sandwiched between 2 washers with a nut on top and below. Parking lot light posts are mounted similar for reference except threaded rods are in concrete. As the concrete anchors should be to secure it.

[@zoodwear]

can you show an actual calibration of the 680.. There are several on youtube but no m2 are the same and all are ambiguous

[@mrmotofy]

@@zoodwear I just followed the manual instructions

[@stilyou]

The roller assist arm does not seem to be aligning properly on the machine we have - the wheels are not tangential to the rim and track at an outward angle and come off the tire. I've tried to adjust the arm to be as close to the 'duck' as possible but the lock lever on the duck hits the roller arm so I can't get it close enough to track well. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?

[@mrmotofy]

I think it may work better slid back toward the pivot

[@jerryt8116]

Why is that Mayflower quick release female disconnect coupler $30.00. Do you have to have it because it has Chinese fittings?

[@mrmotofy]

Not sure, no you can put any coupler on there. I used a regular 1/4" NPT 90 deg fitting to drop hose down, then a hose barb fitting. Then put a short hose whip on there. As I don't have it connected to an air supply except while using it.

[@ericc8895]

Do the added air driven arms hekp that much? I am looking at tire changers with then and without them

[@mrmotofy]

From what guys say that do it all day every day with lot's of different tire sizes. Most of them say yes they are useful especially for the lower profile tires so popular now. They can certainly make life easier. I swapped a TPMS sensor super easy by an arm pushing sidewall down and holding there while I removed/replaced sensor. I decided to get the arms. Everyone in shops buying new machines gets the arms Less levers on the rim is less potential damage.

[@ericc8895]

@mrmotofy sounds like you just sold me on the 988 model. Thank you for the information!

[@mrmotofy]

@@ericc8895 Haha, well you can thank me by Cashapp, Zelle, PayPal, Google Pay or gift cards :)

[@JohnFrancoNH]

Nice overview, are those 2" casters that fit nicely into the feet? Would 3" work did you try?

[@mrmotofy]

Thanks, They're 3" casters with info in the pinned comment

[@tenehaglendening9246]

Do you know if this is the same as tuxedo brand? They look very similar. Thanks in advance

[@mrmotofy]

On a quick look they do appear to be about the same...there's Chinese manufacturers selling units out of a catalog. Same thing many different brands. Go to the Mayflower website and order for better pricing.

[@jerryt8116]

Will it do motorcycle tires? Do you need spe iL attachments?

[@mrmotofy]

You need adapters for those, there's some on Amazon/Ebay for like $100 I think. The cycle rims aren't wide enough to reach the duck ill so need adapters(spacers) to lift them up. The balancer would need an adapter that's I think $2-300, but even racers at tracks usually use a bubble balancer or the stand type like from Harbor Freight

[@KINGRG1]

Do you know is the assist arm (230) will bolt up to the 980 model?

[@mrmotofy]

I'm pretty confident it would I believe the only difference is the color. You can order off their website and likely save tax costs which is sizable. Ebay and Amazon will charge tax.

[@KINGRG1]

@@mrmotofy So I emailed Mayflower and they told me that I would need the “Mayflower 300” assist arm which is $1000 for the 980 model… I don’t believe them… When my cylinder cap broke they told me that they don’t sell the caps separately and I would need to buy a new cylinder pump assembly for $250. Well i found a retailer online that sold me the cylinder cap for $25 and also mentioned that all of the China tire machines use the same parts across the board.

[@mrmotofy]

@@KINGRG1 I think you're right. The 300 is probably just the one that comes on the other model using the 980. You have the 980 and can measure the dimensions of that top arm behind the lock lever. I can compare it and get back to you

[@KINGRG1]

@@mrmotofy Thank you for doing that for me. I took the measurement from the center of the pivot bolt to the center of the clamping arm/rod. It is roughly 24” between the two points.

[@mrmotofy]

@@KINGRG1 OK how about the height and width of the arm?

[@jessielawrence9227]

Can these clamp 24’s inside?

[@mrmotofy]

The 988 is spec'd for a 24" inside so yes it should...but NOT a rim you care about as it will almost guaranteed damage them. Virtually nobody clamps modern rims that way. Old steel rims for a tractor or farm truck sure. But not a nice aluminum rim. You need a bigger machine for that likely one that clamps the center bore

[@jerryt8116]

Thanks

[@mrmotofy]

Welcome

[@sprtplt]

Useless vid.

[@mrmotofy]

What would have made it useful to you?

[@CoreysZ32]

Lol definitely not useless, thanks for making this