Quick tutorial on replacing the lower control arms on your 3rd Gen Mazda 3.
Пікірлер: 70
@TsunamiPete3 ай бұрын
Completed the repair today, went very smooth even though I was working in the driveway on Jack Stands in a small space. She drives like a new car and no clunks and clinks. Thanks for posting, your video definitely helped me achieve an easy repair and save some $$$
@TsunamiPete3 ай бұрын
Great tutorial and solid step by step instructions. Going to be doing this in the driveway on my 2015 Mazda 6, which is identical in design to the 3. I'm also doing a full strut replacement as those are making some serious popping, creaking noises. Come on Amazon, they arrive on Tue. Big THANK YOU for the awesome video.
@acar3615 Жыл бұрын
Its nice to see it done. I'm replacing everything on the front end, 200424 on the clock with its original parts minus brakes and tires.
@stephenbay9564 Жыл бұрын
Another great video. Right to the point. Thank you for this. You're showing me all the parts of my Mazda that I'd like to see, and know about. I look forward to your next ones!
@The13thSword3 ай бұрын
Well done sir. Only thing missing here is the lug nut torque spec, which is 85 foot pounds. Everything else was well explained. My "stealer-ship" quoted me (as of Feb 2024) over $1400 to do these; not gonna happen. Have air tools, some experience & a free Saturday, piece of cake. The Mevotech Supreme parts were mentioned elsewhere in comments. I've used them before on my Toyota and am well satisfied with their price, quality & performance/function. Plus the ball joint on their control arms for this Mazda are greaseable instead of sealed/non-greaseable. Again, good work sir. Like left. 👍
@JayDonatoMusic9 ай бұрын
Bro thank you for this video. I'm just learning how to service my own Mazda3 and that was extremely helpful 🙏🏻 Clear video quality, descriptive, and straight to the point.
@ChrisKozlo5 ай бұрын
Thank you for the walk thru and torque specs. Still sore because i have no uga-duga. I found my T-bar with a cheater was the perfect fit to break the front bolt by the oil pan, no swivel needed. The passenger side i used a 12" extension suported by a jack stand to get good leverage and break that big boy. But thats working off the ground with hand tools for ya.
@dannysiordia417611 ай бұрын
Mazda owner here.. Great job man💯 Keep it coming really great information 👍
@martinf96268 ай бұрын
Grate job sir. I'm from Quebec Canada with snow and salt so A lot of rust , look easy but for me with the rust on my Mazda CX 5 2014 I need more tools and penetrant w40 and spare push type clip because many will break. Thank you for the torque specification.
@johnrogers28262 ай бұрын
Very cool! Thanks. Wish it was that easy here in Canada.
@Kontiky19 ай бұрын
That’s exactly what they doing at my Mazda 3 2016 in the agency (dealership) right now. 👍🏼 great video
@vaughnbutts2974 Жыл бұрын
The best ever you make it look so easy 🔥 and fun also I’m definitely changing my Mazda army myself , thanks 🙏 so much
@CARDIAXPLAYS Жыл бұрын
It is easy bro. You can totally do it and thank you so much for the support
@SlowCarsFastSFV Жыл бұрын
This is a doable DIY. You'll need that breaker bar and a 1/2 torque wrench as a few bolts require crazy high torque.. 175 ft/lbs on one for example. You can buy the bushings/ball joints aftermarket or OEM and replace but it's easier to just buy a new one and replace the whole thing.. I used Mevotech's.
@ignatiusDOWN9 ай бұрын
mevotech original grade or supreme? looks like a good option on RockAuto, close to $160 or so after ship and tax for a front pair
@pto1975 Жыл бұрын
you’re the best 🎉🎉🎉
@richardbatara31815 ай бұрын
should the bushings be torqued down with the tires on the ground instead?
@sarahobrien337911 ай бұрын
Could they cause vibration in reverse with brake pressed down?
@kaferere7 ай бұрын
My man, firstly, you didn't pre load the suspension before tightening the front horizontal bolt, this can cause the bush to squeak and will definitely limit the life of the front Bush in the control arm because of "over twist" when the suspension is compressed. Secondly, you actually didn't set the correct torque for ANY bolt because you over torqued them with the impact gun FIRST ! Going around the bolts with the torque wrench after they're already over-torqued is telling you nothing. Just because it goes "click" doesn't mean a thing if they're all over tight to begin with.
@KillaninjaFC Жыл бұрын
Nice technical video. It seems a shame to replace the entire arm just for a busted bushing. But if labor hours are lower to replace the full arm, that speaks to a Mazda engineering oversight.
@josenoguerasjr.68736 ай бұрын
Problem is after market bushings never fit correctly.
@giovannidamian5237 Жыл бұрын
New sub here. Excellent work. 👍🏽
@CARDIAXPLAYS Жыл бұрын
Thank you very much my good Sir
@ericjohnson9784 Жыл бұрын
Keep it up bro!
@CARDIAXPLAYS Жыл бұрын
Is this you bro?
@ericjohnson9784 Жыл бұрын
@@CARDIAXPLAYS yes sir the one and only bookunator! Love ya dude
@VinnyVarious Жыл бұрын
Mr. Mazda in Da house!!!!
@ignatiusDOWN9 ай бұрын
Awesome wheels, I think those would have originally came on a CX-5. I think the Sport 17" wheels of the 3rd gen are way better looking that the swept 5 spoke Touring and GT wheels
@VinnyVarious Жыл бұрын
Thanks Bro❤
@TommyG11814 Жыл бұрын
Good stuff here,,,,,,best Mazda tech on the U
@CARDIAXPLAYS Жыл бұрын
Thanks you soo much.
@user-co6yu9nd3e10 ай бұрын
Great video!!!! Do remember what brand part you installed? Also, I have an 2014 Japan made model Mazda 3. Mazda part breakdowns show 2 diff control arms Japan and Mexico. Do you think there's any fitment issue? Many thanks.
@CARDIAXPLAYS10 ай бұрын
The control arms installed were OEM Mazda3 control arms. I believe that OEM is the best way to go.
@RowanJohn10003 ай бұрын
@@CARDIAXPLAYSdo you have a link to the oem part? I have a japanese built
@terrellgarfield74348 ай бұрын
How do you do the driver side?
@deepzone3127 күн бұрын
What's the estimated cost for this repair? I need to do both of my front control arms on my 2016 Mazda 6. Arms look to be about $440 for OEM parts right now. How much labor time is involved for a pro to get this done?
@AndresSalazarAutos Жыл бұрын
Excellent video, how many miles does this car had? I used to have a 2016 in red, traded it in for a 2021 Turbo HB
@CARDIAXPLAYS Жыл бұрын
It had about 90'000 on it. I love the 4th gen hatch by the way. I feel like its under rated. I wish they offered it in a manual trans. It would be a hot hatch to content with.
@ignatiusDOWN9 ай бұрын
@@CARDIAXPLAYS they do have a 4th gen Mazda3 HB with a 6 speed, just with the 2.5 NA and FWD. So no turbo and no AWD
@soushi88 ай бұрын
I hear clunking noise in front of my Mazda 2015. Not sure if the bushings of thee control arms are shut or my suspensions are done. Maybe both. I’ll have the dealership check it out and I’ll do it myself since my stealership people are crooks 😂😂😂 nice video keep them how to video coming!!
@ignatiusDOWN9 ай бұрын
Is it true that to properly torque the bolts, the car needs to be sitting flat on the round like it's parked and not on the lift?
@kaferere7 ай бұрын
Yes it's true, but only for horizontal bolts that go through a Bushing, like the front "through" Bolt on this Mazda 3. The reason is that when the suspension is under the weight of the car, the Bushing is supposed to be "relaxed" (not twisted), Failing to do this limits the life of the Bushing and causes it to squeak over bumps etc. If you tighten the horizontal bolts while the suspension is dangling, the Bush is "relaxed" in this position. Then when the car is back on the ground, the Bush is ALREADY under tension and somewhat twisted. This means that when the suspension is at or near its fully compressed state, (potholes etc.) the Bush will start to tear under the abnormal twist range it's being asked to deliver. If ever you have a new control arm fitted by a garage and it squeaks, and the Mechanic says "it's just 'cos it's new" don't believe him, he was probably too lazy to preload the suspension. The guy in this video has not loaded the suspension before tightening the front horizontal bolt, nor has correctly torqued any bolt up because he over-iorqued everything with his rattle gun first !!. Then he went around every bolt with the torque wrench as if he correctly torqued everything up ! The customer may have squeaks and be back with a torn Bush sooner than he ought to be.
@MichalMazal11 ай бұрын
Hi, please how many miles had that Mazda when you change these arms. I have 93 500 so i ask when i should approx. Prepare for change many thx
@CARDIAXPLAYS11 ай бұрын
Hi Michal. I would do a visual inspection on them first. Your lower control arms might still be in great condition.
@ignatiusDOWN9 ай бұрын
108k miles on a 2016 mazda sport, mine are due for a change
@wyzkalifaayala40137 ай бұрын
Beast
@jblairhoward9 ай бұрын
The passenger side was easy thanks to the video! BUT, the driver side big bolt (the one with 158+ torque) is impossible to get out b/c of the transmission pan. HELP!
@pufifa2 ай бұрын
ALL the bolts were over torqued since you have used impact gun to begin tightening. 😅 It is clear, when you try to tighten using torque wrench. Other than that it is great video.
@SollMaN9011 ай бұрын
What is a reasonable price to replace both arms in the front? I was quoted 1500
@ignatiusDOWN9 ай бұрын
front lower control arm assemblies cost $150-200 for the pair on rock auto. Based on the video looks like one could do it in a couple hours. That being said, labor at a shop will always cost more. But for ONLY both front control arms, that sounds like a rip off
@Cadet21766 ай бұрын
Question can the ball joint can be replaced?
@The13thSword3 ай бұрын
No, it's integral to the control arm, so you have to replace the entire arm.
@reblph111 ай бұрын
I'm having trouble removing the first 19 mm bolt in the front my breaker bar can't get in there .
@reblph111 ай бұрын
The transmission pan is in the way on the driver side
@spike37810 ай бұрын
Impact
@SebastianPucci Жыл бұрын
no need for alignment after replacing these?
@CARDIAXPLAYS Жыл бұрын
I would recommend one but my shop does not have an alignment machine.
@spike37810 ай бұрын
I have to change mine 2 times because moog failed me after 1 year for both sides. The new ones doesnt look any better. For those doing your own, go oem. Moog sucks now
@MrEdiboyzee Жыл бұрын
where are you located?
@CARDIAXPLAYS Жыл бұрын
West Texas. The Permian Basin
@drewbush653510 ай бұрын
Hope the top one is easy
@BreadAndGatorade9 ай бұрын
Nobody want to video the driver side for this car 🤦♀
@jeffwest55513 ай бұрын
He said in the video it's the same as the passenger side, so what's the problem?
@BreadAndGatorade3 ай бұрын
@@jeffwest5551 it’s not because access is different
@MrLee200992 ай бұрын
Yep done mine not to long ago. Driver side is a pain in the butt as you need to remove a bolt from the transmission housing and jack the motor up. Then pry the motor forward to remove the bolt located near the air compressor. Definitely not the same as the passenger side 😩
@cleanwhite6527Ай бұрын
😂 😂 😂 if you have an auto that trans pan is in your way. Thankfully I have a manual transmission so I had plenty of room
@hawkboy000Ай бұрын
@@cleanwhite6527same!
@ampm977113 күн бұрын
It's ridiculous that you have to replace the entire control arm just because a piece of rubber has gone bad instead of just replacing the rubber. The kind of weathering steel used by the 3rd party brands isn't the same steel car manufacture has used.