Mazda Protege A/C Fan Switch Repair, EP. 12

[@mercury710]

I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for the very clear and friendly video you uploaded You solved a problem for me in Mazda 323 - 2002 My mechanic didn't want to hear about it so I had my good friend a man with golden hands follow your video step by step and within 30 minutes the problem was solved A huge thank you from Israel God bless you 🙏🏽

[@RetrocarStyle]

👍👍👍👍

[@bigsentientripple]

Awesome video dude. I’ve been done owned a 02 protégé5 for 8 years and finally found this video.

[@RetrocarStyle]

Glad u found it....hopefully not too late

[@patrickwardrop]

Thank you! When the AC stopped working about 8+ years ago Mazda wanted $500 to fix it. I’ve been living with fan setting 1 and 4 since then. Your instructions worked perfect, had everything working in 30 minutes for under $10!

[@RetrocarStyle]

So glad u found the video helpful!!!😎

[@tundra2008able]

I had the same issue happening to my mazda and after watching your video I fixed mine! I also took into consideration regarding the padding so it won't come apart. So far so good 👍🏼! Once again thank you for taking your time to do the research and putting this video together. You saved me so much money. Many blessings your way my friend!!

[@RetrocarStyle]

So glad u found the video helpful and that u can enjoy ac on all speeds. So far I think this is my most popular video!!

[@RetrocarStyle]

For those of you who are new to this video, I strongly encourage you to solder the wires and resistors together instead of the crimp connector method. You can crimp the entry/exit wiring. But when building the circuit, solder the two resistors and the ground. Also add lots of shrink wrap insulation to the circuit to protect it from vibrations as vibrations seem to loosen the resistors, making you have to build the circuit again. SO GET GOOD AT SOLDERING.!! MAKES BETTER CONTINUITY ACROSS THE CIRCUIT AND MAKES THE WIRING STRONGER!!

[@carlosbecerra715]

THANK YOU!!!! just repaired my wife's car with your diy video and now the wife is happy with her a/c.

[@RetrocarStyle]

You're Welcome.

[@tomvan6728]

This has been a mystery in my car for the longest time the 4 years I’ve owned it. And to actually see a repair for this is amazing, so thank you! I get nervous with electrics so we’ll see if I do it. But every estimate I’ve gotten to get it fixed has been large and this is so much easier. Thank you for finding this out!

[@RetrocarStyle]

BE PLAGUED BY THE PROTEGE'S MOST ANNOYING QUIRK NO MORE!! It really is that easy. If you feel uncomfortable, disconnect the battery before working. I doubt anything will happen but maybe that will help put you more at ease. Once I did this fix Ive never had another issue with the compressor cycling on and off...DO IT!!! You won't be sorry!!!

[@tomvan6728]

@@RetrocarStyle I’ll give it a try when I get the chance!

[@RC_BASSBOY]

It's the ground wire on the fan speed switch the ground is about 3ft long remove the ground wire from the fan speed switch from the wire harness cut it about a foot and bolt it to the framing in the dash fixed my 2 Mazda Protege5's with out this so called resistors. The ground wire has a bad connection wherever Mazda put it some people with Mazda Protege's the plug has melted why it's because of the ground wire getting hot because of a bad connection by shorting the ground wire from the fan speed switch and bolting it to the framing fixes this issue.

[@seanscott9186]

Thanks for the information. I like the way you do your video too, nice and chill while driving and explaining. I do my best thinking while driving.

[@RetrocarStyle]

Me Too!! Thanks for watching!

[@maxrx7]

I appreciate your video, I ended up doing this resistor fix with 200 ohm [I put five 1k ohm resistors in parallel] and one 470 ohm and soldered the ends to the electrical wires and followed your instructions as to where to connect them to. So now the A/C light remains on constantly as I can cycle to any speed and any setting on the climate controls, thank you sir

[@markweeks89]

I have been fighting this for year. The Dorman switches are junk, turn to mush, I would replace the switch and it would work, for a little while, 6 years I think I have replaced switches, one a year usually, don’t care in the winter. I just did this, and it fixed it!! Thank You Man, good video too, you explained it well!

[@RetrocarStyle]

Yes the Dorman switches are trash. I even tried one with this fix and it failed in 3 months. If you have issues with thr fan switches, stick to Genuine Mazda switches. I went a picked up a geunine mazda switch from a used protege out of thr salvage yard.....USED and the used fan speed switch has lasted 2 years and still going......

[@darthlucious1592]

So glad to have found this video. My A/C is working and I didn’t have to pay a shop $$$, THANK YOU!!!

[@RetrocarStyle]

YOURE SO VERY WELCOME...SO GLAD I COULD HELP 😎

[@Jbthecircuitdr]

I have a 02 mazda protégé 5 and my A/C on speed 2 & 3 kicked on and off every time. I used this method and fixed it and works perfect. I did not here in video but the 470 ohm resistor goes to the Blue/yellow sense wire on the car side, the 200 ohm resistor goes to the black ground wire and the 2 resistors twisted together goes to the blue/yellow wire on the black plug side. I did not have a 200 ohm resistor but used a 140 and 60 ohm resistors with both ends twisted together to make a 195 ohm resistor and that worked. I did not use any additional wire connected to the resistors. I soldered them directly to the wires for this. Thanks for the video and works great.

[@RetrocarStyle]

Glad everything worked out

[@bennienhouse2918]

Exact problem on my 03 MP5, thank you so much for the video fix, literally going to try it this afternoon

[@santosgarcia8547]

Just want to say thank you for this video, it was a quick $5 dollar fix! Awesome!!

[@RetrocarStyle]

Youre quite welcome. Glad the video helped!!

[@1973loukas]

Ευχαριστώ πολύ.Εχω το πρόβλημα αυτό από το 2007 που αγόρασα το 323 και έχω ταλαιπωριθει πολύ. Μέχρι στιγμής δουλεύει τέλεια με την πατέντα σας. .Ελπιζω και για αρκετό καιρό ακόμη.

[@KreepaEvoX]

Lol, after replacing a couple of these... the fix was so simple... Thank you, really appreciate how you go in depth on every step

[@Angel-ki3sb]

totally recommended, I did it with other resistors because here in Mexico they don't sell those and it worked even though now the compressor doesn't turn off I'm satisfied with the result, good video thank you very much.

[@RetrocarStyle]

If you have a compressor that wont shut off, try replacing the blower motor resistor. Make sure its Genuine Mazda. It does not have to be new, it can be used. Ive had this issue happen too.

[@chrisg998]

THANK YOU. I can confirm this absolutely works. I didn't have a 200 Ohm resister so I put 2x 100 Ohm resistors in-line and that seems to be working just fine. Thank you VERY much for your video! I just did the install yesterday in a Protege5.

[@RetrocarStyle]

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@sniggitty]

Ok, first I want to say THANKS, as this fix absolutely works! I have a 2003 Spicy Orange MSP and it had the exact problem. 1) it took me nearly 3 hours to remove the aftermarket radio as it was wedged and jammed in by the guy who installed it years ago. I had to remove the faux carbon fiber surrounding the dash, and then had to cut the metal box with a dremel to get it out, then remove the wires, antenna, mic, etc. Then I had to remove the plastic box in the middle of the dash which took another 2 hours as it was also wedged in there. Broke the hinge door, but glued it back on! Now, on to the AC fix. Building the circuit was simple!.. Butt connectors don't work well with such small wires. They pull apart easily. Also the blue/yellow wire on the white plastic connector is a NIGHTMARE to get to. Removing the white connector was another 2 hr job of frustration. 17 years of being in there made it very unhappy about coming out. black connector was simpler. I tried to get to it via panel on floor passenger side and that snapped! (ouch).. There is absolutely no room to work since the connectors are attached to the frame with a cable tie. could not get the cable tie out of its socket or even cut it as there is no room for mistake. Used lighter to burn the insulation off the wire after cutting it, as there is no room to use a wire stripper. Ended up using small plastic electrical nuts to make the connection. Using the connector you mentioned for the black wire was another nightmare as i went through 3 of them, since the wire kept slipping out after squeezing the metal clip. This job took about 10 hrs of my life which i will never get back, but the a/c is ICE cold on 3, 4 speed. Now I have to get a new aftermarket radio to replace the mangled one i removed, Unless you have very tiny hands, and lots of experience working in very tight quarters, with sharp edges and lots of time on your hands, I would suggest finding someone (radio installer) to do this and pay them whatever they want. I would rather cut the rusty bolts off the sway bar links with angle grinder than do this again. Thanks for a great video. Spot on! I wish you lived in NJ

[@RetrocarStyle]

WOW!! Sorry to hear it turned out to be a Special Ops mission for you. Yes, being able to work in tight areas without damaging neighboring components helps. As a BMW technician...It is an absolute MUST that I had to learn to do this though crimp connectors like this is never allowed on BMW...they have their own versions and specialty pliers to bridge wires but the operations are similar and believe me it can be ÜBER annoying and time consuming. But in the end you got some cold A/C and on speeds 3 and 4 the Protege has some super cold A/C when working properly....it will literally make you turn it off!!!

[@maxrx7]

Same thing with me, except I was the last person to put in the headunit. One side was ok and disengaged with the removal keys but the other side had the brackets wedge beyond the point that the removal tool didn't do anything, I had to also remove the center surround and use an array of tools to get the clips to move towards the center and pull out the HU, it was a b!tch

[@davecrowe831]

Done ! If ever you're in my neck of the woods, hit me up, the sushi is on me ! Worked like a charm. A bit of a wiggle and a struggle to get the radio out with my home made tools, but i got it ! Thanks so much, I have a/c at all 4 speeds !! Cool, very cool !!

[@RetrocarStyle]

GLAD THE INFORMATION HELPED!! ENJOY THE A/C!!. The protege when charged properly has some of the coldest a/c ever....I have to shut mine off sometimes!!!!😁

[@deathfromabove2250]

Great video and very detailed. I just ordered the parts I need. I've gone through two HVAC panels and both are having the same problem, so I think this resistor installation will do the trick. Thank you!

[@RetrocarStyle]

Glad the video was helpful

[@deathfromabove2250]

@@RetrocarStyle follow up. I completed the repair today and my AC is working good as new!!! Thank you again for this very detailed and informative video. You just saved me a lot of money!

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@deathfromabove2250 Glad I could help!!

[@vaduha777]

Thanks a lot! Also worked for me! After 2 year of trying to find the fixing solution.

[@RetrocarStyle]

Glad u can enjoy ac on all speeds now.

[@ObonicPineMarten]

This worked for me as well. Thank you!

[@RetrocarStyle]

😁✌

[@portomavi]

Thank you bro it worked. İ used 470 and 220 ohm did not find 200 but did not matter. Thanks again

[@RetrocarStyle]

👍👍👍

[@portomavi]

@@RetrocarStyle but after 1 week it happened again :(

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@portomavi What happened again?

[@portomavi]

​@@RetrocarStyle same issue happened. Ac works on only fan speed 1

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@portomavi go back and check the resistors. Make sure they have not come apart and make sure the wire coming out of the resistor isnt broken. If all these check out look at the blower resistor mounted on the side of the ac evap case.

[@cudatom9290]

I had this issue on 3 proteges. it was always the white connector. The crimps from the factory corrode and build up resistance. That resistance heats up the connector and discolors the write plastic. Solder the wires in the white connector.

[@Joseph22805]

Wow, I don’t know how long I had this problem in my P5, I even bought a knob for the a/c but it didn’t work, the first one to go off was the speed 4, now am having issues with 3,2 but #1 seems to work perfectly fine for some reason, also the lights for the knobs went out too so I don’t really know what to do about that but at least with this I can fix a problem that has been bothering me for awhile now, thanks for your video bro 👍

[@RetrocarStyle]

Yeah as far as the lights in the knobs, the only fix is to find another a/c control panel from a salvage car.

[@RetrocarStyle]

UPDATE: See updated Video description. Part numbers for resistors have been added.

[@chubichubi7560]

Thank to this video I was able to fix my 01 mazda protege5 that was only working at 1 speed 2,3 and 4 the ac wont turn on until now thanks to u the ac works on all 4 speed

[@RetrocarStyle]

You're welcome Chubi!!

[@Nathon-xl3mf]

I am about to try this on my grandmas car i had it fixed for a little i unplugged the white connector which was burnt up cleaned some the pins it worked for a day then stopped but im gonna give this a shot all fan speeds work but the ac light only works on 1 also when i tried to unplug the white connector it was stuck where they melted together and it caused me to pull the whole switch put but its held in there with the knob so its alright gonna try this as soon as these resistors come in

[@seatraingaming6057]

Thank you so much I just bought this car off fb market place and this was the only problem with my car and it bugged me so much

[@maytonh]

Great Video and thanks for the links to the parts. We should start a thread where people who have done this can sell their excess resistors.

[@RetrocarStyle]

Glad you like it!...Editing the next video as I type this!!!

[@RC_BASSBOY]

It's the ground wire on the fan speed switch the ground is about 3ft long remove the ground wire from the fan speed switch from the wire harness cut it about a foot and bolt it to the framing in the dash fixed my 2 Mazda Protege5's with out this so called resistors. The ground wire has a bad connection wherever Mazda put it some people with Mazda Protege's the plug has melted why it's because of the ground wire getting hot because of a bad connection by shorting the ground wire from the fan speed switch and bolting it to the framing fixes this issue.

[@tempestelf2]

@@RC_BASSBOY this could be my salvation, summer in NYC is HOT! And I'm not any kinds of good dealing with wires. What part of the frame do I bolt the ground wires to? And how do I bolt it?

[@existinghome]

Fixed my ac with this. Thanks for the video

[@RetrocarStyle]

NP!!😎

[@portomavi]

On my protege ac works only fan speed 1. Fan 2 3 4 does not ac works, sometimes on fan2 level ac works. Does this method solve my problem?

[@RetrocarStyle]

It certainly will. Makw sure yoy follow all the steps in the video!!

[@allexklak]

thank you for your work! can you describe which resistor 470 and which 200? I ordered it on amazon, but it came in blue color both and i can not understand how to made correct scheme. TIA

[@RetrocarStyle]

So...hopefully when you ordered the resistors, you got them from the amazon links provided in the description. Both should have arrived having a taupe appearance or color and look similar. The 200 Ohm resistor should have a red stripe on one end. The 470 Ohm resistor has some other color. I recently checked the links i provided. The 200 Ohm resistor should be the one being grounded.

[@allexklak]

@@RetrocarStyle thanks again. today i applied your method. everything works perfect!

[@gregbieck8167]

Hi thanks! Do you think this would this work on a mazda MPV 2003?

[@RetrocarStyle]

It is possible. The cars are all built similar. For the price of the resistors and time it takes you can always try. And if it doesnt work out you can always repair the wiring back the way the factory had it.

[@トウトウ-k4p]

I did this on mine a few years ago and it’s been perfect since!

[@2160p]

you got a hint how i can pull off the knobs? got myself some stylish upgrade knobs from aliex and want to install them

[@RetrocarStyle]

Just grab n pull...may have to use a small pocket screw driver to help pry them.

[@BestOf4K]

@@RetrocarStyle mhm, i tried to pull with my fingers... didn't work out, seems i need to engage with some toolery

[@nagrain]

At 3:37 which resistor is which? The ones I bought are both blue

[@RetrocarStyle]

Well I don't know where you purchased your resistors so I cannot tell you exactly what you bought. BUT....Resistors are "readable".....The color of the resistor and the color and number of stripes on it tells you how much resistance the device provides. There are numerous charts you can google and download to help familiarize yourself on how to read resistors. Be sure to go back and watch at that moment as I did mention which wire is intended for ground and circuit completion.

[@bakerybb1]

Also for the wiring needed I believe basic speaker wire will work? Thanks

[@RetrocarStyle]

I would say try to use the same color and gauge wiring as factory. Get the wiring from a protege in the salvage yard.

[@bakerybb1]

Do you need to disconnect the battery before doing this repair?

[@RetrocarStyle]

As a good mechanical practice you should disconnect the battery before performing any electrical work. I doubt you would have any issues on this low voltage circuit, especially with the key off but to be safe remove the - battery terminal.👍

[@davecrowe831]

Thanks so much, very helpful, im wondering about the wires used on your resistor pack..what gauge wires need to be used.. or does it matter?

[@RetrocarStyle]

I used the same gauge wiring that was in the car and it has no problems. That would be 14 -18 guage wire.

[@davecrowe831]

@@RetrocarStyle Thanks so much, very much appreciate the quick replies !!

[@antonioramirez8345]

buen video con ayuda del traductor claro que me ayudo mucho no me activava el 2 y el 3 y con este video pude repararlo con menos de un dolar muchas gracias por la informacion.

[@RetrocarStyle]

Eres muy bienvenido. Es bueno ver que esto funcione para todos.

[@danielhofmann8699]

I just had all settings go out 1,2,3,4 all at once randomly was all working fine.. Gonna try this out

[@RetrocarStyle]

It will work out just fine. Thnx for watching

[@Gunwoo]

Great video! Question- would I be able to substitute a 220 ohm resistor over a 200 ohm? Thank you!

[@RetrocarStyle]

Shouldnt be a problem.

[@Gunwoo]

@@RetrocarStyle I just performed this fix over my lunch break. You're a life saver!! Thank you, now my kids won't melt on the way home from school.

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@Gunwoo Yes we wouldnt want that...congrats!!😂

[@ZALONS]

Muchas gracias por tu vídeo , saludos desde Mexicali , México

[@RetrocarStyle]

Eres muy bienvenido mi amigo y gracias por mirar!

[@ZALONS]

@@RetrocarStyle la resistencia también funciona con 1/2 vatio?

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@ZALONS Sí, son resistencias de 1/2 vatio y funcionan bien.

[@mx22mx22]

Que onda, también soy de Mexicali. Deberíamos pasarnos infos de nuestros Mazda, ayudarnos con problemitas comunes. El mío es protege 2003 2.0, ya hice esto de las resistencias y se me acaban de super tostar los cables de tierra. Acabo de leer aquí entre comentarios que el problema de diseño de Mazda fue la Tierra, es muy larga, voy añadir otra tierra para ese circuito del control. Por cierto también cambie la resistencia por si las dudas, 550 pesos en autozone.

[@kirbypalm3170]

Which resistor is which?

[@vincentlee2460]

You need to check the fan resistor under the glove compartment. Its located in the evaporator unit held by 2 screws. When this is damaged, fan 1 has aircon but the other speeds may or may not have aircon. Replace that and all will work again.

[@tomek5706]

Hi, that's interesting tip. Do you happen to know the part number for this fan resistor? It seems nicer to me to replace that part, than doing the wiring process mentioned in this video (wich is actually cool, but needs more work).

[@vincentlee2460]

@@tomek5706 Manufacturer part number GE6R61B15

[@tomek5706]

@@vincentlee2460 Thank you!

[@peteblairakathemadscientist]

HI Vincent, thanks for this tip, I would like to try it first. Do you happen to know if I have to go to Mazda to purchase this resistor?

[@vincentlee2460]

@@peteblairakathemadscientist u can buy this part at Ebay, Amazon. Mazda will cost you a limb. I replaced mine for $15. Till now it works fine. The mod in the video might start a fire.

[@jonathanbrooksofficial]

Does the 200 go to the ground?

[@RetrocarStyle]

Yes.

[@peteblairakathemadscientist]

I'm trying to follow this but I am confused. One leg has the 200 ohm resistor and one has the 470 one goes to the ground and one to the cut wire but which is which?

[@RetrocarStyle]

You are basically putting two resistors inline to an existing circuit. You would ground the 200 ohm resistor. The 470 ohm handles the voltage. The 200 handles the grounding.

[@peteblairakathemadscientist]

@@RetrocarStyle Thanks, I'm with you now! Much appreciated!

[@joenorwood4950]

How do you fix the cigarette outlet I replaced fuse and still don't work

[@RetrocarStyle]

The cigarette lighter socket is on the same circuit as the radio, which should be a 15amp bue mini fuse. So first verify if there is or isnt a short circuit issue with the radio. if there are no problems there, check the circuits and make sure they aren't grounded in lieu of the 12v socket. Sometimes the sockets themselves will ground out and cause issues. 3rd, some devices you plug into the 12v socket may pull more volts and amps initially than the 15 amp fuse will allow either by design or the device may be faulty. These steps are by process of elimination. Hope this helps.

[@Mdsotelo12]

Does it matter what resistor goes to ground?

[@RetrocarStyle]

Ground the 200 Ohm Resistor.

[@crazywhitten]

Instead of tapping into the ground, could I just directly ground it?

[@crazywhitten]

Can I? Lol

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@crazywhitten I have not tried that. Since its just a ground u should be able to do that.

[@genrs13]

Thank you so much !!! You helped me out so much

[@tomek5706]

To everyone interested in this life hack: I was also having the same problem and took my car to several electricians. Finally, one of them decided to dismount the A/C control panel and checked the solder joints on the back of it. The diagnosis was simple: "cold soldering joints". The electrician resoldered the A/C control panel and voila! Everything is working flawlessly. I regret not knowing this before I have spent 100$ on the original Mazda resistor mounted under the glove compartment :( Oh well, life is brutal :)

[@glennbernhardt5903]

Great video. It was a lot of help solving this issue! Thanks!!!!!

[@RetrocarStyle]

Glad the video helps!!

[@tundra2008able]

Great video my friend! Its been a year since this video and I'm curious to how your A/C is holding up? Any further issues?

[@RetrocarStyle]

The only issue I had was the circuit I built came apart because I didnt insulate it from vibration. I made a new one, added some padding and secured it so it wouldnt vibrate....no other issues. Been ice cold ever since on all 4 speeds.

[@brandonporier9271]

Hey I have some questions you might be able to answer is there any way you could help me

[@RetrocarStyle]

Shoot

[@dreamerjazz352]

This is a bit unrelated, but I have a 2002 Mazda Protege and I'd like to give it just a little boost. Do you know what could help it? So basically, just a little kick in it's acceleration, but I don't want the exhaust to make that big sound, I want it to stay quiet while giving it some kind of boost. I don't know if that's possible, I don't really know much about cars, but I love my car and all I want to do to it is put some rims and give it a slight boost.

[@RetrocarStyle]

Well my first response to your question is yes, there are a few things that you can do to add some response to your engine, but it depends on your budget, or how mechanically skilled you are, or not, and whether or not your car has a manual gearbox or not. Automatic Protege's do not respond well to modifications. Modifications to a automatic Protege do help, but a car with a manual gearbox will will give a much more noticeable responses to tuning.

[@dreamerjazz352]

@@RetrocarStyle I see.. Well, for my budget, I'm cool around 100 - 300. Because, cars aren't really a big hobby for me, but I do enjoy cars just as a driver, not as a mechanic in any way. In other words, I love cranking some classic rock, putting my shades on, rolling down the windows and cruising! So as far as my mechanical skills, I monkey wrenched an exhaust tip on my car for the sake of looks lol. It was all rusty looking any ways. Other than that, I just like to drive. My Protege is indeed automatic, which is how I want it to stay. Basically, I just want like a slight boost, a little kick. I like driving automatic, so it'd be nice to have an old Mazda like that still drive automatic, but with a little kick. I just don't know if it's possible to get just a little kick. I did some research, and I'm avoiding the whole exhaust upgrade. I want my car to be the same in sound. But then I've seen that getting the airflow intake system is basically useless if you don't have a proper exhaust system for the gasses to escape. Is that right? Or will one work without the other. Do they make any exhaust kits that aren't so loud, but get more horse power? Or do they make intake systems specifically for cars with the same muffler for a little boost? Let me know anything if you can, and thanks for getting back to me!

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@dreamerjazz352 Getting more air in with a cold air intake is just as important as getting it out. An intake and exhaust would add some HP but I doubt you will find the both of them for your max budget number. The only exhaust I know of that will add some performance withour being too loud is the Racing Beat cat back exhaust. There are a few clips floating around on KZbin that demonstrate its decibel levels. I personally dont think its that loud at all but your tolerance level for exhaust noise may vary...But this exhaust system is nearly $500.00 USD. As far as the intake, you could make one or buy a super cheap one. They dont add much power but some response rather because they eliminate the turbulent airflow associated with the crinkled rubber intake boot. You could also buy a set of cam gears. The cam gears could be used to advance the camshafts a slight bit to shift the torque and powerband of the engine to the lower rpm ranges. This does not add HP but shifts it lower which will add some response. If you go that route, I would suggest having a professional take care of that if you have never experimented with engine timing for sharper responses to throttle imputs. These are all options that can be done one at a time or all together...but you may spend more than what you anticipated.

[@dreamerjazz352]

@@RetrocarStyle Very interesting.. Yeah, I think a little more "response" is what I'm looking for. The thing is, I really like how the car handles. I've driven my dad's modern Mercedes Bens which really feels like a race car! It accelerates like a monster, but not even that Bens compares to how much I personally love how my Mazda handles. I love going down curvy roads and taking the inside of turns and slowly launch out on the straight (safely of course), my car does it so effortlessly. Sometimes I don't even need to brake to take a turn. Even going slow, the car is so easy to maneuver, so with that being said, yeah I think a little response and a slight boost is what I'm looking for. I just don't want to change too much on the car, I still want to keep it original and maybe just change one thing. So what would happen if I was to only put a cold air intake? I know you may have touched on that already, but if you can give me a little more detail that'd be nice. So like, would there be any way to make only a cold air intake effective? Or would it not be a wise thing to do? Even the guy at Autozone told me it might even make the car lose more power.. But is there a way to make it gain that slight bit of power and response I'm looking for with only the intake system? Also, would stuff like oil be of any help to gain more power? I have an extra eye on my oil now because I've gone through 2 blown engines already. So I'm also worried if modding the car will decrease the engine's life. Are there any consequences to modding the Mazda that I should consider? You're helping me greatly already, so I just want to let you know I appreciate the messages so far!

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@dreamerjazz352 One thing to keep in mind is that when tuning an engine for more response and power a single modification seldom does the trick alone. It is usually a collective of parts or things that need to be done in order the get the most out of any tuning efforts. Bolting on an intake, adding the cam gears and adjusting them, with much more free flowing exhaust system is a collective of things to boost response, which is why I listed them. You would need to do all three to see any real gains. The more you modify the car, the more money you will spend, even if you are able to do some of the modifications yourself. You're still going to spend, simply put, there is no way around it. How much you're willing to spend is the question. Can a tuned car be reliable? absolutely. Just because its tuned does not mean you MUST drive like there is no tomorrow. You would still perform regular maintenance and drive it as you would if it were stock so relative reliability actually depends on the driver/owner rather than the car itself. Engine oils and lubricants usually do not add power. Depending on the thickness of the oil, there may be some minor parasitic drag losses, but these are usually negligible and cannot be measured. To risk accelerating engine wear by using engine oil with lower viscosity isn't worth it. Engine oil serves two functions. To lubricate moving parts and to remove heat away from these parts with the help of oil coolers or heat exchangers if equipped. I would suggest using full synthetic 10W-30 or 10W-40 and if you want maximum protection, 10W-50 . Its a bit more expensive but more than likely well worth it for the protection.

[@dandan4926]

How done it work with a hot and negative hooked together ? I'm so lost

[@RetrocarStyle]

Adding resistors in grounds is sometimes done for the same reasons you would place a resistor where there is going to be power. Its done mainly for circuit protection. In other words, you can't have too much of one and not enough of the other = equalize.

[@dandan4926]

Kool beans. I have to try this on my parents car. Thanks for sharing

[@RC_BASSBOY]

It's the ground wire on the fan speed switch the ground is about 3ft long remove the ground wire from the fan speed switch from the wire harness cut it about a foot and bolt it to the framing in the dash fixed my 2 Mazda Protege5's with out this so called resistors. The ground wire has a bad connection wherever Mazda put it some people with Mazda Protege's the plug has melted why it's because of the ground wire getting hot because of a bad connection by shorting the ground wire from the fan speed switch and bolting it to the framing fixes this issue.

[@rolangracia8047]

No se ingles pero nesecito saver cual resistencia conprar veo 2 pero tengo dudas

[@RetrocarStyle]

Referencia a la descripción del video. Debe indicarle las piezas necesarias para realizar la reparación y dónde comprarlas.

[@RC_BASSBOY]

It's the ground wire on the fan speed switch the ground is about 3ft long remove the ground wire from the fan speed switch from the wire harness cut it about a foot and bolt it to the framing in the dash fixed my 2 Mazda Protege5's with out this so called resistors. The ground wire has a bad connection wherever Mazda put it some people with Mazda Protege's the plug has melted why it's because of the ground wire getting hot because of a bad connection by shorting the ground wire from the fan speed switch and bolting it to the framing fixes this issue.

[@RetrocarStyle]

At least we know of a another way to fix the issue. Do the honors and make a detailed video showing how its done to let others know there's always more than one way to skin a cat! 😸

[@RC_BASSBOY]

Yeah because my fan speed 2 & 3 the A/C would go in & out but 1 & 4 would work after doing this with the ground wire on the fan speed switch the ground wire never got HOT and my A/C stays on on 2 & 3 no more cutting in & out issue. Bad grounding and ground wire was to long the shorter the ground wire the better.

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@RC_BASSBOY BTW....killer sound system in that P5....do you still own the car?

[@RC_BASSBOY]

@@RetrocarStyle Yup I do I have 2 P5's. Thanks!

[@mx22mx22]

Gracias! Its a gold your comment and experience. Thanks a lot, i will do that in this moment for mine mazda

[@gabrielph71]

Friend, how can I talk to you to ask you a question about my Mazda?

[@RetrocarStyle]

Post in comments.

[@gabrielph71]

@@RetrocarStyle The question is that I bought the LED on the fender and installed it and when you put on the signal it only comes on once and then it comes on but the light goes down and I wanted to know if I need to put a resistor on it.

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@gabrielph71 check the relay

[@otarsulava]

You need to search online for that relay specifically for LED bulb, because LED consumes less energy the oem relay "thinks" bulb is out. I have exactly same issue on my Kawasaki motorcycle, LED was light up just like you said, after I replaced that relay LED bulb turns normally....hope this helps ✌️

[@Vic-sep]

What color is the ground wire? It seems that is the black or brown

[@RetrocarStyle]

If its on the connector it will be black.

[@Vic-sep]

Thanks

[@Vic-sep]

I am glad this video was posted I have finally fixed it

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@Vic-sep Glad you found the information helpful!!

[@jannos3592]

3:32 EDIT: Ground the 200 Ohm Resistor (blue)

[@gabrielsos6677]

nice video you are a prooooooooo good job

[@solsireperezcruz8271]

Mi carro hace los mismo me podrías decir como buscar esos cables que cbiaste o como se llaman por favor

[@RetrocarStyle]

Cuando dices cables, supongo que te refieres a cables eléctricos. El cable de detección de voltaje está en el conector negro que va al interruptor del ventilador. Este es el cable que debe modificarse con las resistencias eléctricas.

[@solsireperezcruz8271]

@@RetrocarStyle gracias si a eso me refería muy amable por contestar rapudo

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@solsireperezcruz8271 😎

[@solsireperezcruz8271]

@@RetrocarStyle arregle el problema del aire con 50 centavos se cambiaron los resistores y quedo excelente.

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@solsireperezcruz8271 Estoy feliz de que el video lo ayude, señor, ¡gracias por verlo!

[@KevinMorales-jo6xx]

Do u have a link for the Amazon to find it

[@RetrocarStyle]

Ill seee about making one

[@RetrocarStyle]

Links added, see description.

[@TrevorMLark]

Thank you best and easiest fix!!

[@RetrocarStyle]

👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@roomba4623]

W video thanks mate.

[@misha9301]

Thank you so much for this!

[@RetrocarStyle]

NP!!

[@pedrofontanez1903]

How can I get in contact with you? I would like for you to fix my car

[@RetrocarStyle]

Visit the about section of my channel, there you should see my email information where you may send PMs. Thanks for watching!!

[@TheChikilin93]

It work. Thank you. 👏👏👏

[@RetrocarStyle]

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@crownline79]

Only setting 1 works before and after this mod.

[@RetrocarStyle]

Is it the blower or the ac? If the compressor does not work then go back and check your resistors.

[@venera12850]

Спасибо из России, всё слелал как у вас, всё получилось

[@Abnxr27]

🐐