Mazda2 | Rear Brake Adjustment

Tighten up your handbrake and gain a firmer brake pedal with this easy how-to. Make sure you’ve got plenty of tools, plenty of time, and aggression to spare. The results are worth the extra work!
Thanks for watching! Enjoy!

[@stealthjackson1]

Another fantastic video, Josh. The community really appreciates you.

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Thanks so much! ✌🏻

[@Sportage5603]

Hes a know it all

[@superelectic45]

The screws remove easily with an impact driver - don't try removing them with a Phillips scewdriver because they're not Phillips they're JIS and you'll round the heads. If you put some coppergrease on the threads they'll come off easier next time around

[@stephenstokes8318]

I did this on my Mazda 2 recently and the brake pedal feels a lot better and I was lucky the last person who worked on my brakes put copper grease on the screws threads

[@paulcunninghame7225]

Another great video - well done. Hope you are out of the way of that storm. Even half a world away we are hearing about that 'monster'. Good luck!

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Thanks! Yeah, I haven’t even seen any rain from the storm. I’m far away, relatively speaking. I appreciate your concern! ✌🏻

[@Starfank]

Done today with excellent same results, thanks!

[@AKADriver]

Can't wait to do this. My brakes are adjusted fine, but they've gotten ridiculously squeaky. My favorite tool for those screws, at least when I've had to take the rotors off a Honda, is a manual impact driver.

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

I didn’t have one on hand. If there’s a common theme on this channel, it’s using whatever you can find lying around the garage. 😅

[@bobwebb7410]

Got my son's Mazda 2 rear shoes to do this weekend, and was wondering if they were screw back calipers with the 'Ford connection' but happy to see they are drum. I use a manual (Hammer powered) impact driver for those screws but do make sure its the correct size bit, snug fit! if you don't have an impact driver, sometimes a 'clump' on the end of a big posi screwdriver can just loosen the rust. Otherwise, as Josh says, drill a divet and whack it, preferably with a punch. I always refit the screws, just tight enough (with a dab of copper grease, as it's high temp), that way the drum is held so I can accurately adjust the shoes. Some drums have a hole in them and a corresponding one in the hub, so you can adjust the brakes with a flat blade screwdriver, for which you need the drum secure. I also use high temp grease, if i lubricate the brake shoe to backplate area, just any old grease won't do as it might run off.. Brake grease is ptfe based

[@alejandragil5937]

Wow!!! Men thank you so much for be as the way you are and share all your experience in Mazda 2!!! 🙌🏻🙌🏻 and by the way thanks for send me the last sticker (the circle one) I already got it and is amazing!!!

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Glad you like the sticker! 👍🏻 Thanks!

[@skelgood6883]

That made it so easier than the other ones.

[@hendrikjan9116]

pretty good vid. my dads 2 braking just feels numb in comparisson to his old 323 so this should help.

[@crockteerden4023]

Just did my brakes. Used a little heat to those screws and they waked right out very easy.

[@Miatayo]

Thanks for the video. I'll try it tomorow 👍 BTW, do you know where I can find a technical book (like a haynes manual) about the Mazda 2 DE ? I'm looking for it since age.

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

I don’t have a solid source for a workshop manual. Sorry!

[@LEF-xi9rw]

Yesterday I bought this one: www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Mazda/2-%25252F-Demio/2008-MAZDA-2-DE-Series-All-Models-Service-and-Repair-Manual.html It is really complete! Definitely worth the 25€

[@sgomez3047]

YAY Tony!! LOL! Thanks for this video Jerk..:))

[@MrAfdasdfa]

The only thing you neglect to mention is if the big screws holding in the drum are JiA or straight phillips head. Everything else is A+ kosher. Poppin' the drum out with the spare hole should be a #8, likely 1/4" head bolt with a standard thread pitch eg: whatever mazda uses everywhere else on their modern cars. Slot it in with some grease and torque it while bopping the opposing side of the drum to wiggle things out.

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Since you have to likely destroy and then throw the dumb screws away and don’t replace them, I didn’t think it mattered much. lol Also, just hit the drum with a mallet like most mechanics shops will do. Much faster and it’s not going to hurt anything. It was already loose from the hub when I was having trouble removing it with one hand for the video clip.

[@MrAfdasdfa]

@@HiroshimaSpirit Thanks for the clarification!

[@martingoodef811]

You present good info, thank you

[@18PcPlayer]

Use an Impact Screwdriver to remove the Hub Screws. They cost around $15.

[@theriver8524]

Did you upgrade your rear shoes or are you using OEM/the original shoe? Curious about the porterfield shoes... Also, where is the Mazda2 owners group? Online somewhere? Thanks again!

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

OEM shoes. They last forever, literally. Fronts do 70% of the braking so there’s really no need to upgrade the rears. Search ‘M2O Mazda2 Owners’ on Facebook for the group. 👍🏻

[@theriver8524]

@@HiroshimaSpirit I'll save my money on that area then and use it for something else, thanks! Unfortunately I am not on FB :(

[@flowersmile123]

This was incredibly helpful, both the information and visual. By the way, what is the maximum thickness of a rear shoe for the Mazda2 ?

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

No idea. The average street car probably will never reach it. lol The long brake shoe life on a 2 is no joke.

[@emptyhead3007]

Another super helpful video, as always. But quick (unrelated) question, have you or any of your friends experienced any harsh vibrations/shakiness from your 2's, particularly from the engine? I ask because my family's 2 has been causing quite of bit of vibration from the engine to transfer into the cabin and you can feel it from the steering wheel, the floorboards, and it sorta feels like the whole car is shaking a bit. Revving the engine or accelerating just makes the vibrations more noticeable. The engine runs super smoothly otherwise so I have a hard time believing it's anything but the motor/trans mounts going bad. It happens every morning after a cold start (which feels the worst btw) and completely fades away after about 30 minutes of driving. In your best estimation, do you think an 80k mile 2 should need motor mounts so soon? Anyway, sorry for the long read, you just have so much more experience with these little guys. Thanks man!!!

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

The mounts are a good place to start, judging by what you’ve described. 👍🏻

[@emptyhead3007]

I thought so. Thanks man! Btw, I'm aware of the big mount on the top left of the engine but is there two or just one mount for the transmission? I watched your video where you swapped out your mounts so I was wondering if there really was just one. If so I'll definitely feel relieved. haha

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Yes, there is just one trans mount. 👍🏻

[@MrAfdasdfa]

A transmission mount or engine mount on an automatic going out will actually have ~lowered~ perceived passenger bay noise and vibration when under load. Easy test: Keep it in park ==> heavy vibration Y/N? (y) pop into neutral. Vibration lower but still present Y/N (y) blip the throttle. Does vibration lower even more as the engine rocks? Y/N (y), one of your mounts is on the way out. When I bought mine at 117K, the PO gave me his OEM lower engine mount that he'd swapped out at around 80K and it had a massive tear in it. I wouldn't be surprised if you're suffering from some sort of dampening issue, even if your symptoms don't match what is traditionally acknowledged as a bum mount. That being said, if you're feeling a ton of vibration and noise in the first place, a bum mount is where to look. It's ass backwards and silly, but hey that's keeping economy cars on the road baby.

[@emptyhead3007]

Thank you for bringing it up actually, I tried that the other day and the vibration is about the same in both park and neutral. However, it seems very rpm-dependent so blipping the throttle, accelerating, and cold starts all make the vibrations stronger and more apparent. But I just can't seem to make sense of the fact that the problem seems to solve itself (if you can even call it that) after the car warms up for about an hour or so. But like you said, it's kinda ass backwards so maybe the symptoms don't always make sense in our heads. I'm just curious though, did the previous owner of your 2 get a high performance mount when he replaced the OEM one? I'm kinda wondering how a stiffer, aftermarket mount would affect driveability on an automatic like ours. Anyway, it's good to know our car is making it beyond the 100k mile mark without (too many) issues.

[@THC800]

Another way to remove the drum out is simply using a compatible screw to screw in the hole that's shown on 01:33. I only found out what it was for after watching ChrisFix mentioning it when he replaced his shoe pads on his car in one of his videos.

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Yes, but a few whacks from a harmless rubber mallet is way faster. lol

[@usdm_demio]

You should do a rear disc brake conversion ive seen some online for a 2

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

The kit is expensive and would be more for looks than anything else. Drum brakes on a lightweight car like the 2 where the front brakes do about 70% of the stopping are more than effective. Drum brake assemblies also tend to be lighter than disc setups. Not to mention that they literally last forever.

[@ResellTheWorld]

Hey brother, you helped me a lot last time. Now my heater is barely putting out heat. Do you think that could be the the thermostat? My coolant is at a good level and clean. (2011 Mazda 2 - 111k)

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Did you flush your coolant recently? Typically, if there is air in the system, it can find its way to the heater core and render it ineffective as well as affect your overall cooling efficiency. If you haven’t touched the cooling system, I don’t know what the issue could be. Perhaps a clogged heater core? It’s certainly not the thermostat.

[@John.Skelton]

4:41 THAT SCARED ME! I LITERALLY GASPED! LOL!!!

[@stevieklaer9347]

What're the specs on your wheels? are they 15x7?

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Yup. 15x7 +30 👍🏻

[@kimallen7545]

thanks for the video.. BUT just so you know, those 'stupid screw holes' line up perfectly with the adjuster. they're there so that you can adjust it without taking the drum off. also, even if they were indeed pointless, all you've done by getting rid of them is increased the potential for dirt and rust to get inside...

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Those two screws are there to secure the drum to the hub. Nothing more. A friend of mine, also a 2 owner, master mechanic, and certified state vehicle inspector, recommended that they be thrown away. I trust his judgement. As far as dirt and rust getting inside, there is a gap between the drum and the rest of the assembly. The entire way around. Two little holes on the mounting face of the drum that are covered by the wheels aren’t a problem.

[@kimallen7545]

that's not going to stop the brake dust from inside the drum or moisture in the air from getting in. all i know is for me, doing this exact job today, it was much easier to do it through the hole, even when the drum was off, although with the drum on is easier to alternate between testing and adjusting. there's a few mm of play around the hub bolt holes of the drum and the bolts. eventually that will wear down the bottoms of your hub bolts as it will grind when you change into and out of reverse, unless the screws are in to keep it from sliding/playing. it's easier and maybe well worth that, but they're far from useless.

[@jamesymiff7699]

Iv been on the tools for 40 years ,and Iv never heard such rubbish , you can adjust the shoes with the drum on when you remove the rubber bung from the back plate and adjust the self adjuster with a brake spoon or a small screwdriver , by turning it slowly clockwise while turning the drum and checking for drag .The two screws you are referring to are for securing the drum to the hub that’s their only purpose .and not necessary as your lug nuts serve the same purpose

[@kimallen7545]

@@jamesymiff7699 what makes you think that a single feature must have a single purpose? i gather you know how vacuums work if you've worked 40 years as a mechanic...so am I wrong in thinking that the two holes would create and/or alter the aerodynamics within the drum when the wheels spin? as far as i understand, the answer is yes, probably leading to more dust & also probably cooling or heating the drums inconsistently (wind blowing in from one side on a freeway). all that aside, the holes create noise when unplugged when they spin through the air. i'm not saying you shouldn't throw them out because it will cause tangible damage, but they aren't pointless to keep on.

[@danielc.5681]

Good video mate 😉🙂

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Thanks! ✌🏻

[@danielc.5681]

@@HiroshimaSpirit you doing good video mate and helped me a lot to do it on my car, I have a Takuya version 1.3 engine petrol 2011 and was full options when I buy it but I don't now why american one's looks deferent inside( I saw some extra buttons on central console close to the gear shifter)..anyway great job and looks forward to seeing you whit more video about Mazda 2 😁😉. And why not maybe some video about some tunning on the engine because I'm interested if this kind of engine can be tuned whit a turbo kit for more horse power? Thanks

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

That stuff costs a lot of money that I don’t have. I wish I could show people things like turbocharging and engine tuning. As far as the interior, I’d have to see the two side by side to know what you’re referring to.

[@danielc.5681]

@@HiroshimaSpirit no worries mate anyway thanks and i always keep watching your channel, and about buttons is that 2 buttons on that central console or tunnel,I don't now how to name it close to the shifter I saw them in your video anyway no worries maybe is only for american market version of mazda..you now what I mean maybe these options are only in USA. Thanks mate and have a nice day.

[@danielc.5681]

@@HiroshimaSpirit by the way maybe please can you make a video about how to remove the cover skin from driver side door, beaucose i need to have access to that buttons who control the window and the mirror, I need this beaucose i need to fix that buttons left and right for mirrors beaucose is not working anymore to control the mirrors, something wrong whit that button.i try myself but I'm stacked..Thanks! 🙂😉

[@manuelzambrano1039]

Estimado quisiera saber si ese sistema de tambor se puede cambiar a disco porfa para que realice un video

[@kennethku345]

hi, What is that device on top of your dashboard behind the steering wheel?

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

It’s an OBDII multi-gauge. I have a video about it.

[@gachacloudiesky4474]

Great video

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Thanks, Luis! ✌🏻

[@gachacloudiesky4474]

HiroshimaSpirit where i go to check on the sticker?

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

hiroshimaspirit.bigcartel.com

[@ludwigtaveras6981]

Can you make a video changing the actual drum breakers I try to do it like 2 month ago and couldn’t do it

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Neither of my cars need them changed, so no. How old is yours? The rear brakes on a street driven 2 literally last forever. People who race them go three seasons on brake shoes, for perspective.

[@ludwigtaveras6981]

HiroshimaSpirit mine is 2014 I just try to change them for learning purposes but now that you mention it that they last a good amount of time I guess that there is not much need on changing them

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Yeah, our 2013 has 120k miles and the rear brakes look the same as the 2014 with 40k miles; More or less new looking. You won’t have to worry about them for a LONG time. 👍🏻

[@flatlander757]

Agreed. 131k, 500+ autocross runs, and a bunch of track events and my rear shoes are still at like 4/32 (which is basically brand new). No need to screw with them if there's nothing wrong.

[@adiltonaeon]

Hey, Im gonna do this, mine clicks back a few times. I took the tires off to look at mine saturday because they were making noise, but turns out mine look like new aswell.

[@rogueone9214]

Thanks for the info I have a 2016 Scion IA which is actually a Mazda 2 sedan I've adjusted them before but I had a hard time cuz I was using the access hole on the drum this time I'll just take them off if anyone out there could let me know an average of mileage on drum brakes

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

On a street car they should literally last the life of the car. Definitely as long as you’ll own it.

[@jeremiahcarducci1232]

What’s up guys I’ve been thinking slapping a turbo in my mazda2 a real sleeper. What do you guys think? Forget get about it being economical tho. Lol

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Hope you have plenty of money for all of the custom work. If you do, go for it!

[@jeremiahcarducci1232]

How much would it cost just for a kit no installation. Im looking to hit 200hp not more. And what would you recommend?

[@jeremiahcarducci1232]

P.s lights gotta be changed big time. Always wanted blue lights. ☺

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

I don’t know. It’s all going to be custom made parts. There is no off the shelf kit for the 2, so “installation” is going to be part of it. Also, anything above 180whp will destroy transmissions. They don’t handle much power, according to people who have boosted their 2s. There is information out there, you just have to do some research.

[@briansetal493]

Hey I don't see any adjustments in my drum brakes

[@jack-spicer1381]

I belive they sell a rear disk brake kit conversion for the mazda2

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

They do, but the kit is expensive and would be more for looks than anything else. Drum brakes on a lightweight car like the 2 where the front brakes do about 70% of the stopping are more than effective. Drum brake assemblies also tend to be lighter than disc setups.

[@flatlander757]

131k daily driven miles, 500-600 autocross runs, and 6-7 track days/TT events with brake shoes that still are near-new looking say that rear discs would be a waste of money. :)

[@chucky2316]

Can you adjust it from inside under the centre console

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

No, that’s not the correct way.

[@pedrosanpedro5281]

In reality, there is a raised lip on the drum, therefore adjustment is necessary once the drum is installed through the back of the drum, via rubber grommet.😂

[@nednf5048]

are all Mazda 2s a 4 stud wheel?

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Yes. 4x100 👍🏻

[@nednf5048]

@@HiroshimaSpirit how would I go about putting a quick release steering wheel on?

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

You need a hub adapter, quick release, and of course a steering wheel. NRG makes a hub adapter that fits the 2, but I don’t know the part number.

[@nednf5048]

@@HiroshimaSpirit do you have an email I could contact you at?

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

I never check my email. Best way to reach me is through comments here or to DM me on Instagram. (@hiroshimaspirit)

[@briansetal493]

I have a mazda demio 2000 the square one

[@serbia991]

One click travel is not good at all buddy it should start to catch at 3 clicks

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

This advice was given to me by a master mechanic who knows way more about Mazda2s than you or I ever will.

[@serbia991]

@@HiroshimaSpirit lol master tech my arse it should never grab at 1 Click

[@unclefreddieDied]

Alexis Lafreniere!

[@a___________r414]

Mazda + FoMoCo .... Ford Motor Company -have a look to minute 1.35

[@KunaonMang]

Now I can waste my life and money drifting in my M2 😆

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Ripping the handbrake on a FWD car isn’t drifting. lol

[@rickdeane8062]

OMG use an impact driver Don't through them away!

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

I was advised by a certified master tech to throw them out, and it’s the best thing to do in this situation. Not having them there makes zero difference other than now NOT needing a tool I (and, likely, most people) don’t own to remove stuck hardware on the drums to routinely perform this otherwise easy job.

[@reddingcarolyn7468]

Hey bro, do u have Instagram i have mano question for you

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Yes, same name.

[@michael.carrot]

first

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

There he go 👀

[@HiAsTV]

Is the mazda 323 ratchet set the same as the mazda 2's?

[@HiroshimaSpirit]

Couldn’t tell you. I have disc brakes.

[@HiAsTV]

@@HiroshimaSpirit ok do u know which cars ratchet set rapport to mazda 323 hb 1991