Mazdaspeed3 valve cleaning short version.

Quick description of cleaning the intake valves of a mazdaspeed 3 or 6. Forgot to mention to tape up the turbo and pcv valve. More detailed video cab be made if the demand is there.

[@greglivo]

Thanks again for your vid and your quick replies. I got my Speed 6 back together and it actually started after being torn apart for several days. I've done plenty of wrenching over the years but this is as far as I've been into this car. It runs noticeably better better now. It seems like it spools a little quicker, midrange is about the same, and the top end power has improved. I did however manage to break one of the bolts that holds the fuel rail shield on. That part doesn't seem too critical anyway, and it does have the other 3 bolts holding it on. For the sake of knowledge, I figured out how to get the throttlebody harness off. You push the red plastic lock piece towards the wires to unlock. Then you have to push a small screwdriver in from the other end to release the retainer clip.

[@businessmanph]

you are awesome

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Thanks bud haha. Looks like this is a liked video so next time a local needs valves cleaned I'll try and make a more detailed version. Also I'm open to suggestions for videos.

[@jimjackson4638]

This video helped me out thanks. Im having a turbo back presure issue when i apply heavy throttle the boost tube coupler seperates on the hot side of the fmic and a puff of black smoke. Any idea what that could be? Thanks

[@kevv13b]

Your welcome

[@mazdarene]

What happens if I don't move the valves and clean? Is it easier to do oil and change adding an oil flushing? i guess

[@greglivo]

How do you know if you need a valve cleaning? I'm the original owner of an '06 Speed 6 with around 70,000 miles and the car definitely has lost some power. I also short tripped it for several years, driving less than 6 miles to work every day.

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Greg Livorsi if I remember correctly recommended interval is every 40k miles. I've cleaned a car as low as 36k miles and they were pretty dirty already. One of the drawbacks of direct injection is there is no fuel traveling down the runner and through the valve to help clean them like a car running port injection or spraying meth.

[@nizzy1057]

so you fill that hopper on the gun with media blaster?

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Epibloger yeah fill the hopper with Walnut media

[@DOrellana7]

where is your shop?

[@greglivo]

I'm in the middle of this right now. What is the trick to getting the harness clip off of the throttle body? It's got a red clip built into it. Your video has been extremely helpful so far.

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Greg Livorsi it's been awhile so I don't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure there is a slot to use a flat head to release the latch so the plug comes out

[@greglivo]

What is the trick to determining which valves are closed? Will only one cylinder be open at a time or is there some overlap? Right now it appears I have cylinder 4 open. I sprayed a bit of brake cleaner into 1, 2, and 3 and they seem to be holding a level.

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Greg Livorsi there is some slight overlap but I always work one cylinder at a time just to be safe. You can also pull the plugs (will make turning the motor easier) and vac/blow out each hole before rotating the crank for the next one

[@grape00jellly]

What does the coolant bypass on the throttle body do

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Ita an emissions thing for cold climates. All it does it heat up the throttle body making your iat higher. The bypass just helps keep the air charge slightly colder

[@Justin-lq4lc]

You rotate the engine to close the valves right?

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Yep you close the valves by rotating the crank bolt.

[@greglivo]

Are any parts required? Gaskets?

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Greg Livorsi besides the tools, blaster, walnut and egr delete plates (if doing erg delete while you are there). I've reused the intake mani gasket before without issues but if you want put a fresh one in for peace of mind that's all you need.

[@HoUsEoFcAtS78]

You will need the basics. -8mm deep and shallow -10mm deep and shallow -12mm deep -8mm combo wrench -22mm wrench -21mm socket -Compressor -Cheap media blaster -shop-vac -WD-40 -brake cleaner

[@seb42]

Why would you want to do a coolant bypass? (1:40)

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Sebastian Hothaza bypassing the throttle body helps keep IAT/BAT lower.

[@JuniorMason]

how long does this take......I might have to take mine to a mechanic since i don't have the tools

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

Depending on skill level and tool setup and how beefy of an air supply you have anywhere between 3 hours or so all the way up 8+. If you know your way around the car you should be able to have the car stripped down to where you are ready to blast in about an hour or so. It's a labor intensive job so a shop is going to want a solid chunk of change.

[@JuniorMason]

+Ricer WithaDream damn. I was going to use seafoam but I heard it doesn't do much

[@TexasTrollPatrol]

+JuniorMason yeah tha won't do anything for you. Either need to blast them or use b12 and dental picks. Sometimes a combination of both methods as well

[@JuniorMason]

+Ricer WithaDream hmm ok thanks a lot I'll see what I can do/ try

[@carbonfiberwizard5416]

I've done the dental picks with chemicals method... Results were not very good, no where near as good as if you use a spray gun/compressed air with walnuts method. I used the BG intake cleaner which is pretty expensive and all that did was turn the carbon into a gunk/sludge type thing and I let it soak overnight and it didn't get it all clean, if I do it again 100% going with the walnut method.

[@numinous4789]

I soaked the valves in B12 (I think it was) and scraped initially, then switched to the walnut blasting media. Came out great. If I did it again, I'd probably soak in M1 methanol, since I spray it now and have it handy. That stuff would probably eat through the gunk much easier.

[@HoUsEoFcAtS78]

Why not soak in gas overnight?