McDonald’s Broke My Heart | Revisionist History | Malcolm Gladwell

They made the world’s greatest French Fry. Then they threw it away.
McDonald’s used to make the best fast food french fries in the world - until they changed their recipe in 1990. Revisionist History travels to the top food R&D lab in the country to discover what was lost, and why for the past generation we’ve been eating french fries that taste like cardboard.
Season 2 (2017)
#podcast #revisionisthistory #malcolmgladwell
ABOUT REVISIONIST HISTORY
Revisionist History is Malcolm Gladwell’s journey through the overlooked and the misunderstood. Every podcast episode re-examines something from the past - an event, a person, an idea, even a song - and asks whether we got it right the first time. Because sometimes the past deserves a second chance.
ABOUT MALCOLM GLADWELL
Malcolm Gladwell is president and co-founder of Pushkin Industries. He is a journalist, a speaker, and the author of six New York Times bestsellers including The Tipping Point, Blink, Outliers, David and Goliath, and Talking to Strangers. He has been a staff writer for the New Yorker since 1996. He is a trustee of the Surgo Foundation and currently serves on the board of the RAND Corporation.
ABOUT PUSHKIN INDUSTRIES
Pushkin Industries is an audio production company dedicated to creating premium content in a collaborative environment. Co-founded by Malcolm Gladwell and Jacob Weisberg in 2018, Pushkin has launched seven new shows into the top 10 on Apple Podcasts (Against the Rules, The Happiness Lab, Solvable, Cautionary Tales, Deep Cover, The Last Archive, and Lost Hills), in addition to producing the hugely successful Revisionist History. Pushkin’s growing audiobook catalogue includes includes the bestselling biography “Fauci,” by Michael Specter, “Hasta La Vista, America,” Kurt Andersen’s parody Trump farewell speech performed by Alec Baldwin, "Takeover" by Noah Feldman, and “Talking to Strangers,” from Pushkin co-founder Malcolm Gladwell. Pushkin is dedicated to producing audio in any format that challenges listeners and inspires curiosity and joy.
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[@jimmyolsenblues]

This is an unforgettable podcast. So happy I found it.

[@bubbercakes528]

I worked at McD’s in the early 80’s. It was a fast food restaurant you went to once a week maybe. Now people eat there everyday. 😢

[@cakep4271]

I want to hear more about the health aspect. Cuz sounds like heated unstable vegetable oil is like a billion times worse for you than the stable animal fats.

[@contrarian604]

Many of us are children of the 60s 70s & 80s, after the "food pyramid" had been hijacked by big food and the sugar lobby. Animal/saturated fats (wholly natural and part of man's prehistoric diet) and cholesterol (required by the body, and mostly synthesized by the body anyways) were unfairly and incorrectly demonized by the vegetable oil lobby, and big-sugar (including Coca-Cola) to deflect attention away from the dangers of sugar and excess carbohydrate consumption. Salt too, was also demonized by the sugar lobby, as the body is FORCED to retain salt as part of the insulin response, but only after the body is forced to deal with too much sugar/starch. The nonsense now peddled by dieticians and doctors and "nutrition guidelines" the past 50+ years is slowly but surely being proven to have had no basis in truth, never proven by unbiased science. There is a growing body of common-sense that points to sugar/carbs and unnatural "vegetable oils" as the root cause and common thread to many if not most of the chronic illnesses of modern man. Saturated fats (animal or plant) are natural, stable, and resistant to oxidation because they have zero carbon double-bonds. Olive oil is an acceptable compromise, despite having one carbon double-bond that can oxidize. Again, olive oil was demonized by the vegetable oil industry because despite being natural, it has a lower "smoke point" which again is a red herring being peddled by the vegetable oil industry. I used to think these conspiracies peddled by the "health food nuts" were simply BS, but it is big-food and big-pharma that have to be feared. Much of what we have been taught is not just wrong, but in fact the exact opposite of what we should in fact be doing to and for our bodies, for optimized health and aging.

[@markhamilton8765]

Saturated animal fats are actually good for you; vegetable oils are very bad for you…just look at the science for proof. Oh, the irony!!

[@sportivitythrills183]

Maybe you didn’t get the memo. All oil and fried food is bad for you. All of it.

[@jrock5830]

because everyone believes McDonald’s is healthy, right? The podcast is called Revisionist History... not everything that we know with a Google hit.

[@langreeves6419]

Yeah, there's no way to make unhealthy food healthy. There's no way to cheat.

[@johnnywapstra9973]

Irony being today nutritionists are saying we need to eat like our grandparents,i.e. tallow...

[@MissyGail4eva]

As a Generation X kid, I remember this fiasco growing up, and the resentment I harbored for a while after, for it was a bitter pill to swallow, indeed. Gone were the wonderful memories of after school happy meals once a week, the social mingling of friends at the corner McDonald's after a busy Saturday afternoon at the bowling alley, skating rink, or YMCA.. that's what's so funny about it all. We were all active kids, the type who played outside until the street lights turned on, then you'd meander back to each friend's respective homes. Sometimes life would surprise you, and from the corner you'd first smell the fries. Pace quickening as the group of pals rounds the bend, a smile would beam over your face upon realizing that *you* were the lucky duck who now was the envy of all your peers; *you* had done a great job at (insert cleaning your room, raking the leaves, acing a quiz) and your mom and dad had not forgotten. You felt appreciated and loved, but not simply for the fries themselves, but for what they represented. McDonald's usually served as a treat, _not_ a staple. It was veritable reward for an A+ on a difficult exam, or after a 9th inning win for the teeball team, all shuffled into booths, alternating between bites of fries and quick reprieves in the ball pit. As aforementioned, the portions were reasonable, but oh-so delicious, and satisfying. And unlike today, in which quantity has long given leave to quality, the singular greatness of a well-turned McDonald's fry was a thing of legend amongst harangued parents and babysitters, desperate to regain a modicum of civility as the charge first showed signs of an ensuing tirade.. there was always that one lone trump card that could bring it all back to homeostatic normalcy...the promise (if your good, now) of a McDonald's Happy Meal and it's unmistakable pull of a collectible toy and a small, child-sized sheathe of gloriously golden fries all your own..

[@MrTeff999]

Malcom, you should do a piece about the history of seed oils, and the continuing increase of heart disease.

[@sportivitythrills183]

What do you think causes heart disease ?

[@MrTeff999]

@@sportivitythrills183 Apparently, it's the manufactured seed oils, processed foods, and non-foods that humans never consumed until about a century ago, and that have become an increasingly large percentage of calories that people consume.

[@rogerc23]

@@MrTeff999 I think they are the reasons for obesity and many chronic diseases like diabetes. Which then lead to heart disease. But more directly sugars and animal meat causes heart disease. In addition to smoking and drinking of course.

[@rogerc23]

Oh and air pollution.

[@Redmenace96]

Not going to bore you with the details, they are in the book, "Grinding It Out" by Ray Kroc. The original recipe for FF from the McDonald's Bros was very complex. From the beginning, fresh whole potatoes were delivered to restaurant locations and they had specs on how they were stored, prepped, and cooked. Kroc had to change all that in the name of efficiency. Wish I could have tasted some of those original 1950's fries.

[@sportivitythrills183]

That’s your goal in life?

[@Pops2]

Malcom, everything was better in the good old days. 😊

[@L33PL4Y]

Bold thing to say to a man who's done multiple episodes on historical sexism and racism.

[@wyatt2000]

This man deserves millions of subs. Keep going!

[@the1only467]

Had no idea what these were, they’ve been flooding my feed. Glad I clicked.

[@steveeuphrates-river7342]

How in the hell do you ONLY have 14K subscribers??!

[@davelenzi3698]

I too lived through this... a sad day when they killed what was one of my favorite foods in the world. McDonald's was a special treat for my siblings and me. Maybe once a week, usually after church if our behavior warranted. I loved my fries. I would order them, sorting by texture and length. I would select some for addition to my burger, an enhancement in taste and texture. I would the pair the remainder and eat them in ascending order according to how I ranked their quality. I will never forget this, or the amazing happy meals. Nutrition in America over my lifetime really has been the blind leading the blind... but also gullible.

[@daddymcpapi7520]

well said, Dave...well said.

[@mry5892]

Ah, yes. That was tragic. Those who remember the original fries continue to be disappointed....😢

[@EricaFanuele-je7eu]

I just recently figured this out, wonder if the industry would ever go back to the original recipe.

[@sticksteve13]

Phil Sokoloff was a rich guy with an opinion. He was not a doctor, nor nutritionist. He used his wealth to destroy American fast food french-fries. So the fries are less healthy now than when he ate them. Why wasn't he called out as the idiot he was? Great Job Phil, now more people are having heart attacks after his completely misguided attempt at fixing an imaginary problem. He was only effective because he was rich. He was not a true "David" in the goliath scenario, he may have been facing a goliath, but he had millions of dollars to throw at the problem. Rich people think their opinion matters more because they can throw more money behind it. The rest of us just want tasty french-fries.

[@gregkirk1842]

Yes. This asshole should have minded his own business. Thinks he knows better than anyone else. Onky cares about the issue becauae it affected him.

[@incognitotorpedo42]

Yup, Phil screwed up.

[@gsilcoful]

Great story.

[@buster9106]

I was about 30 when McDonald's changed the recipe and I didn't even notice the difference.

[@ecamp6360]

There's actually a BIG difference between eggs fried on the multi-use griddle with veg. oil, and those cooked in butter in a cast-iron skillet only used for eggs. Also, nothing here about the beef tallow flavoring sprayed on after people complained that veg. oil fries tasted lousy.

[@kambrose1549]

It's worse because there is now doubt that dietary fat is the cause of high cholesterol in humans😕. When I was at uni in 1970 a new chip shop came to town. The owners were Chinese and the chips(fries) were so good they had long queues every night. Someone said they used beef fat.

[@cherylcarlson3315]

Fascinating. My son was born in 1990 and I thought was the birth that changed the way french fries tasted.Hardees had good fries a bit longer but they also tasted bad... thought was just me.

[@willmpet]

When I was a teenager, I worked at a restaurant that served burgers and fries. We used to go to White Castle after work where we would get floppy, greasy fries and gut bombs.

[@viscountav]

Thanks for the information, and especially the entertainment.

[@lreadlResurrected]

When they were serving the original fries I would never use ketchup on them. After the change French fries became ketchup delivery devices. BTW cyclamates tasted better than sugar while they were legal. I would’ve rather had a Diet-Rite Cola back then than either a Coke or Pepsi. It just plain tasted better. “They” shot them down, too.

[@HSVIRK]

Just wonderful...

[@darlafitzpatrick8770]

I'm only five minutes in but I don't need to go farther to know that anything fried in beef tallow is far, far healthier than anything fried in machine oil -- oops, I mean in "vegetable" oil, which should never, ever have been introduced into the food supply. You don't even need to heat these PUFAs in a fryer; just your own body temperature is enough to cause oxidation. And if cholesterol were bad for you, your body wouldn't manufacture it and use it for hundreds of biochemical processes. They didn't mention whether Mr. Sokoloff was a smoker. It infuriates me to hear more of these stories about people with absolutely no knowledge of biochemistry influencing public health policy -- and it continues today. Don't blame fat for what the sugar/starch and chemically manufactured machine oil did. All of this was deeply researched and referenced in Nina Teicholz's excellent book, The Big Fat Surprise (only because her publisher wouldn't let her use "Lie" in place of "Surprise"). Malcolm Gladwell isn't uncovering anything new here, but I'm glad he's spreading it to his audience.

[@chrislubs1341]

Yes. Food business profits have driven unhealthy addiction, advanced by promoting misinformation. Regenerative farming struggle is one hope against synthetic patented food substitutes aimed at capturing subsidized food distribution: choose sustainable production whenever possible

[@beenflying1]

Amazing. Thank you. The whole world is sick with poor metabolic health now thanks to people like him and big sugar...

[@EternalAngler]

Interesting story, if you research standard potatoes in general you'll realize they're considered a nightshade which causes inflammation and deep frying in general is unhealthy. Potatoes is not a vegetable you should be eating on a daily basis... My recommendation, make sweet potato fries which is not a night shade, use a little extra virgin olive oil and bake them in a shallow pan in your own oven. You forgot to touch upon how McDonads is also sugar coating their fries, they claim this is how they get their unique golden look, evenly cooked and texture, truth is it's just there for taste and get people addicted, just like every other processed food in grocery store is laced with sugar. Home Depot founder Bernie Marcus claims rise of socialism is what's causing Americans to be lazy and fat, but yet you look at some of the socialist or communist countries like china they're living to 100... We're starting to see the repercussions to basing a diet based off of pure profits... We pay more for healthcare than any other country, yet by 2050 CDC stated 1 in 3 will be diabetic. Remind you sugar industry paid of scientists to put the blame on fat instead of sugars and carbs. Frying in beef fat prolly is healthier than vegetable oil, but deep frying anything in general is still not considered healthy. My personal opinion, if you're looking for a healthy fast food, turn to arabic fast food like shawarmas, they're baked on a rotisserie not fried chicken like most american fast food, do not use as many preservatives if any at all like subway, they also use a strong garlic paste that is probably good for cleaning out your arteries and is probably antibacterial, antiviral, and anticanerous... Garlic is very strong antioxidant! Look at Vice and Journeyman Pictures what happened to arabic people when american fast food came to Kuwait and Qatar, obesity and diabetes went through the roof, it's actually the perfect study... No need to even watch Morgan Spurlock's documentary supersize me, American fast food is garbage, always has been. Pop is garbage too, it was considered somewhat of a treat or delicacy mainly to be consumed on occasion like ice cream. Corporations have influenced Americans into turning pop, fried fries, and beef paties cooked in vegetable oils as their daily diet. The only thing probably healthy at McDonalds is probably their egg mcmuffins which last time I looked, they're cage free, but then again they're cooked on a stove with vegetable oils and is put on a piece of bread that is intrenched in glyphosate, which new studies are showing this herbicide even at diluted levels can act as an antibiotic on your gut bacteria, high levels can cause cancer, and is also an endocrine disruptor and hormone changer, Germany just outlawed this herbicide in 2023. You claim McDonalds broke your heart, lol, this food has always been garbage, deep fried foood was only meant to be only eaten on occasion, foundation of the American diet used to be what mother cooked at home like eggs in the morning, maybe even a liver or steak for dinner... Corporations have corrupted a lot of things... I'm still a fan of capitalism, but honestly, how we come back from this I have haven't a clue. They have made everything a profit, racket, including our healthcare... If you listen to what native boy Michigander Jeff Daniels not being greatest Country Anymore and we're 49th in life expectancy. Many are saying that freemarket capitalism and corporations helped win WW2 with building ships, fighter planes, etc... Definitely some truth to that, but sometimes our greatest strength can become your greatest weakness! We're living in a new age of technology, while majority of Americans are getting free unregulated videos on TikTok majority concentrating to become the next Influencer which is very unrealistic, Chinese are feeding their people a regulated version of TikTok with videos showing science experiments at home, museum exhibits, patriotism videos and educational videos... Hate to say it, American dream is over, we've turned into fat slobs that barely function in our day to day jobs. McDonalds broke your heart, lol, that should be least of your worries.... We're circling the drain like George Carlin said...

[@laidman2007]

Sometime you have to deny yourself so you can live to fight another day.

[@laurie113]

Their French fries are the best! I’ll go anywhere for a burg or chicken etc. but Always McDonald’s Fries. Now , they are much flatter tasting, thanks to the do -gooders, but still better than most!

[@victoriaman117]

What broke my heart was how you presented yourself at the monk debate sir. Such a pity

[@victoriaman117]

@@willzimjohn Your entitled to your own version of reality but, that would not be the case sir. I read his books, listened to his podcast, loved his work. however accusing someone of racism with no proof to substantiate it because you are losing a debate lowers you in my view. That is not intellectual honest or a thing a decent person does

[@shad0wyenigma]

As a vegetarian I can’t say I’m disappointed that my fries are no longer cooked in the juices of dead animals

[@victoriapearce6145]

Hmm. Guess that's why I never order fries anymore, haven't for years. Tasteless little sticks

[@CourtneyW-jr6fx]

tea & a small town broke my heart using proprietary information behind my back

[@fredhoupt4078]

Hilarious and enlightening.

I cooked fries yesterday. Crisp, light brown, home made.

[@trippy19640]

Now that the research is f=inding out about how bad vegetable oil is really for yo9u, if Mcdonalds will reverse and go back top good old animal fats

[@collineare]

This is all history for me: I've been following a low/no carb eating style for 15 months, and my life is so much simpler and healthier.

[@SkiRedMtn]

If you eat a combination of complex carbs and simple, unrefined, unprocessed carbs, in a balanced diet, and actually use energy, you won’t have an issue. Ultimately you do you. But advocating that avoiding entire aspects of nutrition, especially the one that supplies most of our work energy, is acting the false profit of nutrition. No athletes eat carb-free diets. Full stop.

[@collineare]

@@SkiRedMtn Been there. Done it. Thanks for the imput.

[@rebeccazegstroo6786]

Maybe saturated fat is bad, especially in excess. But taking the saturated fat out and building up flavor with sugar and salt is even worse. I'm hoping you Influence somebody brings back tallow fried French fries.

[@contrarian604]

please do some further research before posting past propaganda that has since been debunked. I am a child of the 70s and 80s, after the food "pyramid" had been hijacked by big food and the sugar lobby. Animal/saturated fats (wholly natural and part of man's prehistoric diet) and cholesterol (required by the body, and mostly synthesized by the body anyways) were unfairly and incorrectly demonized by the vegetable oil lobby, and big-sugar (including Coca-Cola) to deflect attention away from the dangers of sugar and excess carbohydrate consumption. Salt too, was also demonized by the sugar lobby. Salt is only an issue because the body is FORCED to retain salt as part of the insulin response, when the body consumes too much sugar/starch. The nonsense peddled by the dieticians and doctors and "nutrition guidelines" the past 50+ years has now been proven to have no basis in truth, and is not backed by impartial research results. Nothing in your first sentence is correct, please do not post mistruths.

[@lisaleaalexander4138]

Now that we know that “saturated fats are all bad for you” was not settled science, why don’t they go back to the original recipe? Because in addition to that, people care less about their health more now than ever and would buy zillions of the yummy fries 🍟 !

[@Idlewyld]

Go get a job at McDonald's, and you will see how much grease has to be cleaned off kitchen items at closing. Then realize that grease is in your blood when you eat there.

[@antonomaseapophasis5142]

Phil Sokolov would be right at home in MAGA USA Mr. Loud and Wrong

[@gregkirk1842]

No, he would be right at home with you self-rightous, woke totalitarian SJWs who shut down anyone or anything that doesnt comply with your dilusional ideologies.

[@claracalifornia]

man means well, well, the catch is............... man is often used by others to make the big bucks......... and little children learn to hate milk. And I got a really bad stomach ache from soy oil.... Soy oil was everywhere. I learned to cook my own food. I use animal fat.

[@johngage5391]

It's time for a reverse Sokalov to step up and get Micky Ds to revert their recipe. A smaller quantity of an excellent product is better than supersizing a poor quality substitute. Look at the growing incidence of diabetes and wastebands of Americans. The recipe change did not make anyone healthier.

[@claudiabarter6697]

Corn and cotton seed oils. Really give me animal fats every day

[@ThomasSigurdson]

Truly Impressive! Every step of each episode is so thoughtfully crafted. Thank you. Let's see if I can tempt you with a very, very story - in my neighbourhood, there is a racist dog. Honestly.

[@johnrolle6645]

Sorry, not trans fats but saturated fats the beef tallow stuff.

[@TheDavidlloydjones]

Sugar. Minuscule cubes of pure refined white chemical.

[@davidandersen9177]

Yeah but the research on fats say otherwise - so much for his passion for health?

[@90000cg]

Gladwell got eaten alive when he debated Douglas Murray🤣🤣🤣🤣🤡🤡🤡🤡😂😂😂🤡🤡🤣💩🤣🤡🤡🤡😂😏😄👍💩💩💩💩

[@KeaneSouthard]

I'm a big fan of yours, Malcolm, but I'm really disappointed in this episode. If you want to argue that McDonald's fries are tastier with beef tallow rather than vegetable oil, that makes sense. But it seems your whole argument is based on a belief that unsaturated fat is more unhealthy than saturated fat, which seems to come from your reading of Gary Taubes and Nina Thai Schultz which you "love" and "wholeheartedly recommend" at the end of the episode. (And your telling the reader to Google "aldehydes scary" to find evidence for this is some really bad journalism, I expect much better from you!) I'm not saying fries made in vegetable oil are healthy, or even that they are healthier than those made in beef tallow, but Taubes and Schultz's argument for a low-carb, high-saturated-fat and high-cholesterol-diet, especially when the scientific consensus is that saturated fat and cholesterol cause heart disease, is an extremely dangerous view to be spreading to people. I hope you might consider reexamining your views on this, and I'd highly recommend that you read the book "How Not to Die" by Dr. Michael Greger, who has been diving into the peer-reviewed nutrition research for years now to share with people what the science really says. (It is by far the most well researched book I've ever read, with more than 130 pages of citations!) www.amazon.com/How-Not-Die-Discover-Scientifically/dp/1250066115

[@fedimusmaximus2454]

It's trans fats. The hotter, the longer, and the shittier the fat, or the fact they change the oil once a week, are the operative datapoints.

[@contrarian604]

Keane, you are correct that Malcom's position is that saturated fats are natural and healthy, and PUFA (poly-unsaturated fatty acids) are unhealthy. Arguments to the contrary, are incorrect, and books written by Taubes and Teicholz (you misspelled her last name) are in fact correct. At its core, butter and beef tallow are natural productions and saturated fats are least prone to oxidation, as they have no carbon double bonds. "Vegetable oils" are not natural, are created in petrochemical factories, and are highly prone to oxidation (due to the multiple carbon double bonds, especially after repeat heat cycles. Further, there is no evidence that a low-carb diet is "extremely dangerous". it is medical common sense that a low carbohydrate diet reduces the need for insulin in the body, and a high-carb diet is not ancestral, and leads to follow-on chronic medical issues such as diabetes, cancer onset, and various forms of chronic inflammation such as arthritis. There are millions of people around the world now following and buying low-carb, keto, carnivore, or low-inflammation diets with a goal of reducing carbohydrate intake. The evidence supporting this trend away from carbohydrates is growing, and time will eventually show this is the way forward. Your position is the same as an ostrich with its head in the sand.

[@contrarian604]

@@fedimusmaximus2454 Most of your statement is incorrect. Trans Fats have mostly been taken out of the food system, and are no longer really an issue. Saturated fats (butter, tallow, lard, coconut & palm oil) have no carbon double-bonds, and thus can not be oxidized. As a result, they keep well, and are stable even at high temperatures. Polyunsaturated fats (any vegetable or bright yellow oil) have multiple carbon double-bonds, and oxidize easily, especially after repeat heating/frying cycles. Further, they don't exist in nature, and are essentially manufactured in petrochemical factories using an industrial process. Most restaurants will change their fry oil once, maybe twice a week. I would rather that my fries be cooked in one week old beef tallow, than day old canola oil. I know because I am a restaurant franchisee. However, you are correct in saying "the shittier the fat". Canola and sunflower oil is not a fat, it's essentially synthetic motor oil and I wouldn't eat that. My system uses canola oil (on the grill and in the fryer) I have brought this up with higher-ups to no avail, and I no longer consume any of the food items I sell that have canola oil. All decisions are made based on price and ease of supply. and canola oil dominates the North American food supply.

[@fedimusmaximus2454]

@@contrarian604 ok, but trans fats form in repeated, long term, high heat frying... like commercial fryers.

[@contrarian604]

@@fedimusmaximus2454 you are correct, but this applies exponentially more so to PUFA like canola and sunflower oil. repeat use of a saturated fat such as tallow, ghee, (butter less so), coconut oil, or even olive oil (it is an MUFA) is far safer than any PUFA (corn, sunflower, vegetable, canola, etc) oil from the study abstract, "Influencing of Deep Frying in Forming of Trans Fatty Acid. April 2009MAKARA of Science Series 13(1) by Ratu Ayu Dewi Sartika University of Indonesia", "Trans fatty acid was formed after second repeating of deep frying and increased in line with the frequent of repeating" and " In accordance with the beginning of trans fatty acid formation, it would be better to use the cooking oil not more than twice" and from the study: Formation of trans fats during food preparation, Oman Przybylski 1, Felix A Aladedunye 2012, An investigation was completed to determine how typical cooking procedures used in food preparation, such as baking and stir-frying, affect trans fats formation. Methods: Canola oil was used as the main fat ingredient. Results: Irrespective of the cooking procedure, linolenic acid was the most prone to isomerization with the highest amount of trans isomers formation.

[@user-yq2wc2ug8m]

I haven't eaten at macdonalds in forty years. They changed their fries?

[@gregkirk1842]

Do millenials all chew with their mouth open?