McMurdo FastFind 210 Battery Replacement - Part 2

[@bjnslc]

2022. I finally decided my old batteries which still show full charge were at too much risk of leaking. I picked up a set of assembled cells from Beacon Battery Replacement. I watched a few videos to confirm that access to batteries is pretty easy and just replaced the old cells. Self test works, so back into my emergency kit it goes. Thanks for your pioneering videos!

[@kyleandjackpro]

Just did the replacement. Used "DURACELL Ultra CR123A Lithium DL123A 3V Lithium Batteries" found on Amazon. Lots of options, paid less than $20. Use a hand tool to remove screws so you don't strip them. Batteries have a ten year expiry date; they are replaced after 5 years for extra safety. Took me under an hour following the video. I used electric tape but its a snug fit. Thanks for sharing this!

[@kyleandjackpro]

Following up from my comment form FIVE years ago. I just replaced the batteries for the second time. Thanks again Paul! Brian, Toronto😊

[@bazzadebear8012]

Any electronics technician worth his/her salt should be able to do this easily. Liked this video.

[@sinbadcleo]

Thanks for that, Paul. That's encouraged me to tackle replacement of the batteries on TWO 406MHz EPIRBs I have..... of course, I'll register them both, but I'll carry both. Just as I carry TWO lifejackets, in case of need.

[@snaproll94e]

It took a while but I found a preassembled battery that just needs the connector swapped out. It's original use is for electronic hotel door locks. Google: "DL-11 battery" or "Saflok SL2500 Battery" www.batteryplex.com/doorlock.cfm/m/DL-11 costs about $20 to replace the batteries. Thanks for the video!

[@snaproll94e]

Thanks, I've been wondering about this. Also, thanks for the battery purchasing info in the first video. FYI, you can buy the thin film heat shrink tubing from a hobby store or ebay that is exactly like what was used to make the original battery packs. It's specifically made for constructing battery packs and has a high shrinkage ratio. Now that you know what you need, it might make reassembly easier. A loop made from a strand of copper wire when you solder the tabs together might help shorten up the battery pack and help make reassembly easier. I usually cut one tab a little shorter than the other and then fold the end of the longer tab over the short one and then solder the tip of the tabs together. Thanks again!

[@PaulZak]

Great suggestions, Thanks, Paul

[@johndenney123]

Many thanks for the video - just done mine. Note... I used metal cased batteries which need to be insulated from the circuit board with insulation tape. (the self test failed) ......basically make sure that the batteries are encased in some sort of plastic. Shrink wrap will be best if available. ps - I have done the self test many times... (at least 12) and it still functions as it should.

[@PaulZak]

You are quite welcome. Glad it worked for you and others! I really had no idea so many folks would be interested. Paul

[@johndenney123]

@@PaulZak I bought mine in 2012 when I sailed solo to the Caribbean. It has been sat in a drawer since then so you have helped resurect it. I now take it with me off road motorcycle riding. :)

[@joeltatham5673]

Just replaced the battery in my 210. Great video, thanks!

[@BreezyRider66]

Thanks for posting Paul, good instructional video with appropriate warnings, and you managed to keep a steady hand, nice work! When I do mine I think I'll put a dab of silicone grease around where the seal is...

[@PaulZak]

You're more than welcome Rona. I miss sailing. I learned on San Francisco Bay years ago.

[@neilangus2587]

Thanks for the video....I be searching for the batteries in Canada!

[@billjones3964]

thanks, going to do this on mine now, found batteries on line at Ali Express

[@ikono2]

Thank you for the great video, Paul. I am going to replace the batteries in my PLB and have a concern while doing this. I used to replace batteries in heat counters, they would fail if I had disconnected the supply even for a short time. Obviously, the memory looses the programming without the supply. I understand that this may be even intention in case of heat counters, to avoid manipulating them. But how do you know that it is safe to disconnect the supply here? We cannot test the device for which code it transmitts. Hopefully, the serial No. is wired into the device permanently. Has anybody tried to emergency activate the PLB after battery replacement with power disconnected?

[@CanadaGTA]

Thanks. A couple questions. One is that the company claims that pulling the red cover breaks a plastic anti-tamper seal that cannot be reset by the user - did you find this? Does it affect the functionality of the unit? (i.e. Is it easier now to "accidentally" have the red cover pop off?) Also, the unit comes pre-set with 10 available "GPS Position Acquisition Tests." (Different from the battery test that you did.) Once those 10 tests are used up, it will not allow any additional acquisition tests in order to protect battery life. Wondering if you know how to reset the functionality, or if it is automatically reset when the batteries are disconnected/reconnected?

[@PaulZak]

There is indeed a tamperproof cover however removing the screw with the cover pivoted open will keep you from breaking the tab they're talking about. I have no idea how one would reset the 10 GPS Acquisition tests. I didn't see any obvious traces or switches on the pc board, but without documentation, I don't know. I've only ever run the battery test 3 or so times so I'm not clear what would happen at 10+. I could imagine that it would just stop passing the battery test. Sorry I can't add anything more to this, but we're into unknown territory here. My advice would be to not rely on the unit when it fails the battery test. It's entirely possible that, as you suggest, it might reset when power is removed during battery replacement. Let me know if you ever figure it out. There will be others here who'd like to know. Thanks for watching and your questions. Paul

[@bartlett73]

Just a note of caution when you open the unit the seal is broken, so when you reassemble it may not be waterproof. Keep it in a plastic bag just to be safe.

[@johnsea7724]

Hi, a query, please. On the first (Part 1) video, the new batteries are quoted as 'Lit 0362 CR123A (with tabs) 6v lithium battery, 9.3w ', yet I can only find CR123A batteries at '3v'. Was this an error; i.e. are the batteries 4 x CR123A 6v, or are they 4 x CR123A 3v? Thanks. John C.

[@PaulZak]

John. This is Paul's wife. He is unable to respond and I don't have an answer for you regarding the batteries. I can tell you that he probably did not make a mistake. And I hope that helps.

[@johnhackett8831]

Nice tutorial, Paul, thanks! Is that a static mat (wired to ground) you are using in the video? If you didn't mention it -- I skipped over bits of the video -- note that is important to have a static-free environment and use a grounded static wrist-strap when you handle integrated circuit boards (especially in winter) or you might damage the chip(s) in SUBTLE WAYS which might not be apparent during a battery test, but which would cause the unit to fail as a GPS receiver and/or as a 406 MHz transmitter. You wouldn't know until you tried to activate it and no one ever responded. I suspect McMurdo actually tests GPS and RF functionality after they replace the batteries, which is the real reason they charge so much.

[@finbarrohalloran6907]

Thanks Paul. Very helpful! 🙏👌

[@davidsinclair6425]

Great video Paul, thank fort he insight

[@PaulZak]

David Sinclair You're more than welcome David. Paul

[@PaulZak]

I can't quite remember where I wound up getting the batteries but AliExpress usually has that kind of thing.

[@Showerguard]

Well done, thank you

[@pops9190]

Thanks, I"ll redo my 210 batteries as well

[@mrbennimax6835]

Great tutolrial, thanks for sharing this!

[@PaulZak]

Thanks for your kind words.

[@mrbennimax6835]

2 things I'd like to ask you, there seems to be two versions of the CR 123 A, 3V and 3,6V, do you remember which one you used in that project? And do you remember the aprox price?

[@PaulZak]

+MrBennimax They are listed as 3v and are not rechargeable. I believe the open circuit voltage when new is a bit higher than 3v, but as far as I can tell there is only one A123. Check out the Interstate battery website and look at the LIT0362. Something like $5 each, less with the ongoing discounts. Without the solder tabs these things are much less expensive but I though it was worth it. Paul

[@lexzal5820]

My unit is 6 yo and only a few months past its battery change due date. Just tested the battery and still show a full charge (3 blinks). In your opinion, do these battery deplete slowly or can they die unexpectedly. In other words, can I wait with the change out until it tests 2 blinks not 3 or is it better to be proactive. Thx, Lex

[@PaulZak]

Lex Zal Hey Lex. I don't know how they fail. In truth, I couldn't tell you if I knew. The liability concerns are just too big. My thought is that the manufacturer probably has the statistical documentation to support their replacement cycle. It's probably conservative but they have lawyers who help them make supportable decisions like this. So, I'd replace. Standard disclaimer follows. Please do this battery replacement at your own risk. If you don't have the required skills or equipment, the manufacturer can replace them for you.

[@rickdozier3609]

What kinda of battery do you buy? Mine have nothing to ID voltage or MWH.

[@russell2952]

My FF210 batteries said Lithium 6V 9.3Wh on them. I replaced them with 4 Duracell CR17345 which totals out at 8.82 Wh for each 6V pack. Close enough.

[@Topsoil4u]

Thank you

[@lzugner]

My battery test still indicates "good". It's probably still good,right?

[@PaulZak]

voodoo dad The manufacturer says two years and I'm inclined to follow that advice. I'm guessing that there is some statistical data which shows a greater failure rate after two years. I wouldn't play with that. I replaced mine at 2 years.

[@lzugner]

Thanks. Mine is actually 12 years old.

[@bushyfly2]

If the batteries are lithium, can a person just charge them up?

[@PaulZak]

As I understand it, rechargable lithium is a different chemistry. The non-rechargable should not be recharged.