Mechanic Almost Blown UP! WELDING Tools to Customers Car! 2012 Chevy 5.3

[@robpeabo509]

This wasn't boring Ray, this was "real" reality TV - It was what you were working with and you took us for the ride.

[@vincentgotter4669]

And oh what a ride it was

[@hondaveetc82]

Shut up

[@gordongott127]

Amen!

[@ianrobinson1805]

True I’ve worked in shops where my job was to fit exhaust systems allday, i felt your pain, Ray Ian from over the pond in the uk

[@michaelearl6991]

Broken stud holding exhaust manifold to cylinder head on C-15 cat engine. Mechanic ended up blowing it out with cutting torch. Apparently cast iron has a higher melting point than steel.

[@barrysimmons5489]

At 80 yrs I've said it before, it bears repeating: Used to work in a saltbelt truck shop. We'd have to remove logtime seated body bolts among others. Get'em the nuts cherry red n quench with water to finger cool. Use penetrant if needed. You were there but never quenched it to cold. Used that on exhaust systems like this as well. Always worked around the farm machinery as well. Heat expands, water shock cools it breaking up the rust. Only ones that failed were if threads were already destroyed. Then oversize the hole n put in a nut n bolt. Enjoy you videos Ray. Thanks for sharing. 👍🇺🇸

[@michaeldepetris696]

The mechanics struggle is real. Been there many times. 1 hr project turning into 12 hours. Good job Ray. Never letting a car defeat you.

[@spaceflight1019]

When the time per task books are written the vehicles used are fresh from the assembly line and have zero corrosion.

[@JonnyHolms]

​@spaceflight101 I didn't know that, Thank you as you learn something new everyday.

[@DAVIDLEESKINNER]

.

[@Ralph_Baric_PhD_C2019]

a few moments later this makes me so happy with my life

[@gordongott127]

Me Too ! !

[@detornodoes]

I was there with you the whole time, found myself clenching muscles trying to turn that bolt with you. I have had some stuck but never that bad and of course it was before I started recording for KZbin. Glad you decided to stay and finish, there is not much that is more disheartening than knowing that you will beginning your day with the exact same problems you ended your previous day with.

[@thomas7770]

A regular mechanic would have put that back together without replacing those studs. Salute to Ray’s excellent work ethic.

[@jhonditch4269]

and ~~~~ I keep finding important looking hardware along the side of my road I just add them to my collection because ~ hey you never know what you might need.

[@harryellis8873]

Close to that floor wall there ray with that torch should have wifey to fire watch health and safety that what we was taught in our garage

[@harryellis8873]

Not got a stud extractor ray well done for your perseverance not a nice job takes so much time

[@scottbishop7899]

​@@harryellis8873 The problem was more the fact there's rusty threads on the other side of the manifold, he could still snap the stud even with a stud extractor as its seized in place.

[@harryellis8873]

​@@jhonditch4269 I take a walk near our local garage and the amount of snap on tools I have found in the road is unbelievable keep on looking jhon

[@joezupp4968]

As a rust belt mechanic, Detroit, this was a very good video showing the issues the mechanics have to deal with regularly. People don’t understand why stuff takes so long or is expensive, these videos show reality. Keep up the good work, glad you escaped your former place. Good luck.

[@mike.47]

This is why Ray’s new shop is going to a great success. Attention to detail is Ray’s watch word, if you have your vehicle worked on by Ray you know it’s going to be fixed.

[@lechatbotte.]

Not just fixed but done correctly

[@mikewebster2761]

Agreed. Nice name by the way👍

[@randynelson1769]

Hard to keep this a G rated video with such bad luck!

[@sunmist4421]

Ray, seriously, you're killing me with this. You need to get a lot more heat into the manifold flange with the torch, then squirt the stud with oil, WD40 etc. and then try to turn it. That whole flange around the stud should be cherry red when the socket is placed onto it. It will save you hours, and your temper ! Been there.

[@mjb12141963]

Ray, this is one of those videos that makes us all feel better, knowing this schtuff doesn't only happen to us.

[@Rsandman41]

Would rather hit my thumb with a hammer then do exhaust work but did it for 2 years. Got good at blowing them studs out with a torch and saving the threads. The bolt will melt before the cast iron but so do you when the slag lands on you. You did good so hats off to you.

[@williamjones4483]

The nice thing about these videos is if the customer questions why you did a particular thing or why it took you so long, you have proof of your work.

[@Nl-nn3ds]

The thing I like about your videos is that you do not skip the frustrating parts.

[@u.p.tinkering]

Ray, if you weld a flat washer to it first you can get it welded on tighter then weld the nut to the washer. I used to do it with just a nut and it worked but took a lot of tries. With the washer and nut it just works a ton better, Love the channel Ray and keep them videos coming!! :)

[@u.p.tinkering]

On my 22 year old rust belt truck, I just drilled them out and threw some good bolts and nuts through there as there was enough room on top to get a wrench to hold the top. And it is so much easier now to remove them, i just snap the bolts and throw new ones in. lol

[@bmoore3199]

At 61 years of age, I've never given up therefore never been defeated. Persistence finishes the race. Good job Ray 👍👍

[@ogresspeedshop]

I hope your videos reach the people that have the “I can do it myself for cheaper” attitude. People who don’t do this kind of work just won’t understand the struggles involved. Not to mention, all the extra hours you’re putting into it and probably not charging extra for what it took to get this job done. Great work as always Ray!!

[@outseeker]

the hours part is what kills me.. there's just no way he's being paid a full day to remove some bolts :< he's just bending over to get the job done for the customer.

[@tomhendricksen1805]

@@outseeker If he were charging it would probably be cheaper to just replace the manifold..... assuming he did not break too many studs and have to weld through a copper tube to prevent damage to the aluminum.

[@outseeker]

@@tomhendricksen1805 for sure! changing parts out is quicker and easier than repairing something. i love that he's like no, i won't waste parts/money/resources of others- i will repair this thing if it kills me! he could have bailed at any point and changed the manifold, which i think he mentioned, but he stuck with actual repair all day, and still wasn't actually finished. massive respect and empathy lol the painnn

[@arvilsstraume9304]

@@outseeker he didn't remove the manifolds only because there was risk of breaking off the bolts in the head so this was less risky

[@ianrobinson1805]

Your right most people that don’t fix their own cars/vans wouldn’t have the first idea what to do with a spanner, I’ve been around engines since i was 13 yrs old, always fixed my own cars, replaced clutch lay on my back, with the gearbox on my chest, all on axle stands.

[@spelunkerd]

I very much liked this video, it shows the real world experience with welding nuts onto a frozen stud. There's a tendency here on KZbin to show only the successes, with no meter on how many tries are made or how long it took. It also emphasizes how important it is to have good penetration by dialing up the heat. I'm so impressed you were able to do this without damaging the mating threads on the manifold.

[@pebosk]

I loved the filter you used during the welding... I'd love to see it again. As a backyard mechanic, having been there as a kid and without the welder/torch, it found extremely interesting watching you extract all the bolts you did.... one thing I can't understand though, is how you can have all the fails you did today and not one swear word... amazing!

[@ladonnaghareeb4609]

My thoughts exactly!

[@vbtbmrt4394]

Or a thrown something. Lol

[@chrishar110]

I don't know if we saw the whole video. Don't forget, he edited the video. That's what I would do, just a few "cut here, cut there....."

[@leonb2637]

Ray may be just one of the few who doesn't normally use swear words or he edits them out. He does take out his frustrations with empty brakecleen cans by throwing them. 😁

[@philipershler420]

Tonight you can sleep the sleep of the victorious! One suggestion when you are trying to weld on a nut. If there is still at least a nub left, take your angle grinder and make the end of the nub “nice and shiny”. You will possibly get a stronger weld.

[@SomeRandomHuman717]

This vid is a great study in the contrast between rust belt mechanicing and sun belt mechanicing. The rust belt mechanic will have a greater arsenal of tools and polished skills for attacking this kind of thing. It was hard watching the results of Ray bringing a knife to a gun fight, but in all fairness a sun belt mechanic is not dealing with this level of stuck all the time. There are a million KZbins on removing exhaust flange studs, but few address what you mentioned, the rusted threads protruding out of the other side of the hole are often the problem, but most mechanics don't have the smaller tools to address. A Dremel with small cut off wheels will fit in very tight places and the small size allows finer control; if you have to cut off the stud flush to start drilling, Dremel grinder bits can help you flush cut and give a flat face so the drill bit won't want to walk away. BTW, a die is designed to remove material to leave behind threads, a thread chaser/restorer is designed to push displaced threads back into place. The difference is one removes material and one does not.

[@kellyscottlindner9908]

How many Dremel cutting wheels do you go through to cut through a stud? Has to be a few. Those things never last but for a minute.

[@ninjatuna317]

Loved the Braveheart analogy. I could feel the elation at the bolt finally coming out.

[@kimkeam2094]

I’ve been caught in the same situation and used an angle grinder to cut a slot from the tip of the flange to the bolt. This not only reduced the tension on the bolt but enabled the penetrant to soak in the threads. Came straight out! I always use copper anti-seize on the bolts when putting new ones in.

[@dreadrechsler8278]

And once the stud is finally out a touch of weld on the slot to keep it tight as you run a tap through to prepare for the new stud. That seems ever so much better than replacing the entire manifold.

[@pauldanner9037]

Just posted the same.

[@waleyefish9026]

When other shops say no to rear seals, Ray says Yes we do!!!👍👍👍

[@hot_wheelz]

I'd say that Ray loves his job so much that he does it twice but honestly after watching the video this feels more like some sort of unusual punishment. It reminds me of the struggles I've had in my old line of work where a 1 hour job went sideways and became a 3 day saga a few times.

[@robertbeebe6146]

Just another day in the life of a mechanic Ray, I did it for a long long time!

[@martinaudet7687]

Mechanic's nightmare! I hope the customer appreciates all that you've done to facilitate his repair and to ensure his exhaust functions properly without failure in the future.

[@wisecampmotorcycles8258]

I don't think the customer will appreciate the repair bill, all that time, this has to be a $2000 job easily 😅

[@ronhall9040]

oh, i'm SURE he'll bang the customer for some, if not all that xtra labor hours

[@larrybraden6640]

Hey Ray, I had an old guy show me a trick many years ago and I have used it more times than I can count. Now I'm the old guy so I'll pass it on to you. Use your cutting torch and just melt out the stud. It will melt way before the cast iron. Then just tap the hole to get all the slag out and clean the threads. If you don't believe it works try it on a junk manifold. Takes about ten minutes. Love your videos.

[@tomasnagy4518]

Ray as a retired marine tech the best was to remove a bolt like you ran into. Once rotated grind the stud flat drill it all the way through and use a tap to cut threads into the stud that arec😊smaller than the diameter of the stud. Use a bolt threaded into the stud as you tighten the bolt you drive the stud out using the clean threads on the stud.

[@dv7548]

It shows a determined mechanic winning. That's what I saw. Keep up the good work 👍

[@patrickgoodwin3085]

I admire your tenacity of continuing to show it who's boss. Great job as always!

[@calitech4217]

Love how the life just flows back in ray after that last bolt removal.

[@beardyeighty]

I love how you post at 6 in the morning and by 0630 everyone has showed up to tell you how you should have done it lol. REEEEEEEEE!!! lol

[@marymulrooney1334]

I remember a time when I was trying to drill something out and I still had it in reverse. I about wore myself out. Worked better after making it drill rather than undrill.

[@Aspie_Geek_UK]

This video was absolutely awesome Ray, It showed that its not only us amateur driveway wannabe mechanics have these difficulties but also you professionals too. It also showed the results of perseverance and how satisfying it is when in your words "I WIN"! If I had £1 for every nut, bolt & Stud I've rounded/snapped/stripped or broken in some other way and had to spend hours extracting like this, I'd be a rich man by now.... sometimes I have given up and asked someone else to come round and help with it and together we have managed. But your sheer perseverance was awesome to witness and is also something that probably wouldn't have been rewarded at the last shop you worked at!

[@jonathonvanmeter4893]

Broken bolts are stupid!!! Glad to see you win though. All of us celebrated with you Ray!!!

[@57dent]

30 minutes of watching Ray remove three studs - and it was interesting!

[@vincentgotter4669]

It's time well spent. For some reason when he suffers I feel better I know that sounds bad but thank you Ray.

[@aniciorossitorella7794]

Yes, you're right. Normally it could be a big boring show to watch, but Ray made it so interesting...

[@Achangedlife2008]

In my 20 years as a mechanic in various dealerships I never had a bolt snap off or use a torch. Very blessed. I dont see how Eric O. does it.

[@51ubetcha]

It's been my experience in a situation like this to heat the complete flange on that area , not just the outer edge. The inside area is just cool enough to not allow the stud to move and also try to clean the other exposed threads as much as possible.

[@durango4624]

yes was very frustrating watching but gotta love the ray

[@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261]

Also, the goal isn't just expansion but breaking old bonds of corrosion all around the threaded fastener?

[@burgesskab]

Total respect for not giving up on that stud..... I would have just drilled it out and if I couldn't save the thread, I would have just drilled it out and welded a bolt in! 😁

[@jameswambold1599]

Great video Ray. I feel your pain. Keep up the great work.

[@GrantWilliams666]

I will donate again when possible because that was great.

[@pc-yx9uh]

i love that "i win" moments in life. it's what keeps me going! stay on the struggle bus a little longer than you like. Thanks for sharing.

[@Bob-se1si]

I thought the drilling approach had the best chance. Did something similar a few days ago. Was surprised you started with such a large bit rather than starting small and gradually increasing sizes before using extractor. Absolutely amazed with your persistance though!!

[@patrickdiehl6813]

Have to agree, with something like this I use a center drill first to make sure I have a good center hole to begin with then step it up gradually, most of the time the left over stud will get thin enough to re- thread or chase out.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Try left hand drill bits, they work well. Just keep increasing their size. Use lots of lube.

[@michaelsmith1108]

Ray just a little advice for when you are warming metal you have too much oxygen you need to turn it down so you have what they call a flame at the tip of the nozzle looking like a ducks tail

[@Brian-wb7uv]

I feel this one, Ray. All I work on are my old, rusty hobby cars. I can work on them when I want, without thinking about hourly productivity. But I CANNOT be as patient as you are. Kudos to you for maintaining calm. I woulda just kept drilling until there was nothing left and re-tapped for a bigger bolt. And I woulda yelled a lot more.

[@Raphael-eu7cw]

Being a transmission rebuilder of the north for many years. The exhaust bolt break is the worst nightmare. We always soaked them with ATF overnight. If they ever did break drilling all the way through the stud relieves pressure and sometimes breaks the stud inside the manifold. Well done. Very entertaining not being the one messing with a broken stud.

[@tonywestberg4716]

You need to get an induction heater before you set fire to the car. You must have an enormous patience Ray. I salut you for that 😄

[@jonalowe]

I was thinking the same thing about an induction heater. Dave Steryl uses one a lot on his channel.

[@forgetfulme1719]

patience his virtue, spending $ wisely on needed tools not. (he spent $400 on rear cover without thinking, is it a must?)

[@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261]

When all of this torch work began I started wondering, "Where are the fuel lines?"

[@carlevans7966]

I liked the welding lens idea. It shows people who have never welded, what limited vision you have while trying to lay down a straight bead.

[@timjohnun4297]

Seeing that splined stud extractor snap off in the stud reminded me why I never use easy outs. Left hand drill bits all the way, drill until either the stud winds out of the hole becomes the right size to run a tap through. In this case I reckon persistence with a right hand bit may have wound the studs out the top. Always easy from the armchair though ;) Good job Ray

[@loudelvis610]

The broken bolt extractor happens 1 time ....and that lesson is learned lol....I can't even remember what I was working on when that happened ...all I remember is ....never again!!

[@jameszaun3421]

This is by far my favorite video. As a NY transplant to the wonderful state of Florida, every bolt and nut on my rusty crusty Jeep gives me a fight, it’s good to see professionals having the same issues I run into, and see how you overcome and succeed!

[@clemmarais9768]

Good grief, Ray, what a struggle. I admire the apparent calmness with which you just kept on trying to defeat that damned stud. That you never lost your temper is amazing. Well done!

[@jerebigler7520]

No apology necessary. You proved once again that perseverance overcomes great obstacles. Thanks for sharing.

[@matt_1984_]

Ray, you might look into left handed drill bits. that way when you're drilling out studds like that, the torque of the bit is working towards unthreading it. Good video and glad you got them out.

[@mikepaul3959]

left handed bits and drill ALL the way through the bolt/stud. in 60 years of wrenching that has worked for me 95% of the time. (and try to get a little more penetration on your welds!)

[@patrickdiehl6813]

Honestly in this case if a right handed bit caught it had a better chance, the top of the stud was massively corroded and fought all the way...

[@dennisbranum719]

When I was a young apprentice back in ancient times in the truck shops all we had was "3 in 1" oil as a penetrant. The directions on the back of the can said "apply penetrant and then gently tap bolt with hammer". The theory and the technique are valid. Today, guys like to use air hammers. The trick is to be gentle about it and just keep tapping and then tap some more before attempting to turn the bolt. In later years, when I was teaching all of the young "grasshoppers" in my shop this technique they did not believe the it would work. I never lost a bet.

[@61rampy65]

Ray, I feel the PAIN! Having worked in Chicago for 15 years, I know ALL about rust! Seems there are two schools of thought: one says to do the hardest part first, hoping the rest of the job is easy, or, do the easy stuff first, then tackle the hard parts. Personally, I do the hard stuff first. Once you have resigned yourself that your payday just evaporated, you keep at it until it's done. Then, after a huge sigh of relief, the rest is easy peasy!

[@tbom1021]

Ray I know that sili kroll and Sea Foam Deep Creep are costly but it always works for me no matter how rusty or stuck things get. I only use it in extreme conditions.🤙

[@qhew]

congrats Ray, your persistence paid off. my apprehension just watching you was real intense. you have an amazing attitude “failure is not an option” i would never have!

[@shadowtheguarddog]

I’m an Avalanche owner, 2013 Black Diamond. It is very cool to see stuff specific to my truck. Thank you so much.

[@mjac8373]

Good Lord, sheer determination wins the day! Totally awesome demonstration of do-or-die attitude which is pretty darn rare today. Thanks Ray, you are the BEST!

[@russellbrown1138]

40 minutes watching Ray work $ Welding two studs to extract them $$ Welding tools to cars to extract a stud $$$ getting all 4 out and two chased to finish the day -- Priceless Even cheered a little when that third stud finally succumbed Better content than 98% of anything else

[@allangorrey4798]

Someones probably already said it but to prevent flash backs in the torch turn the fuel off first then the oxy. Little tip from an old welder.....

[@Camperfanatic01]

Love the brave heart ref! One of the all time greatest movies….. might be repeating as you say, but we still enjoy it

[@paulschlobohm7226]

I have been down this road many times. Unfortunately the customer generally doesn't understand what labor costs and time going to jobs like these. I always try to give Alternatives that may be less expensive like changing the entire exhaust manifold but of course that's even more cost-prohibitive. Hats off to you for your tenacity. God bless and keep up the good content

[@blastercaster3509]

this is verry easy, i work at a muffler shop in tampa, and i would just wash out the holel withh the torch and juust dropp though bolts in

[@rem7751]

Man this was way more interesting than I would have expected. I was on the edge of my seat! I'm so glad you got it. Once again you are the king of patience.

[@bobherweg6442]

Whenever that happened to me i would grind the stud flush with the flange then drill it and tap it.

[@Cirathos]

Struggles of reality, this is real content. Keep it up Ray, love your videos. Not because I like seeing you struggle, but because I've been there too, and it shows real time problem solving. 10/10.

[@2000globetrotter]

I must say, Ray, that you have WAY more patience than I have! i would, many hours earlier, have drilled out the broken stud, complete with thread, and widened out the corresponding exhaust hole, refitting either a bigger stud, or a nut and bolt!

[@weldor111]

A couple of tips as I do this for quite a few people. First heat the stud cherry red right where it screws into the manifold then cool it with water a couple of times this will cause the stud to shrink then give it a few taps with a hammer then with your nut welded on work it back and fourth a few times, a small impact wrench set on low can be used to work it back and fourth will usually bring it out. If it does break off sometimes you can grind it flush and drill it, but make sure and drill dead center then use a square or fluted easy out and screw it back through the manifold out the top. Hope this helps and keep the videos coming.

[@chrishayden7016]

If it isn't dead center, drill with increasing sizes until you reach the threads on the one side. Then, using a small chisel, go to the area next to the threads area and collapse the stud in on itself.

[@Rags722]

This one video pretty much summed up what I hated about working on cars for a living. Some days were just like this and all you could do was keep trying, knowing you had passed the book time long ago.

[@Cocora22]

Wow Ray, what a PITA!!!!! Your patience is amazing. It's also so fun to just watch your work. My husband thinks I've lost my mind watching your vids every day, but not only are they entertaining but I learn so much. I know that ALL the work I do always takes me the whole day or even 2 or three days to do simple things, but it's OK. I'm not very strong and I have to watch videos several times over as I do the work.

[@rhadden8976]

If you don't have them already, check into flash back preventers for the torch. Good safety item. Nice job of patience and perseverance. YOU WIN! Thanks for sharing your time.

[@tracktime1196]

A proper mechanic job love these vids they show the real struggle and victory is it's most sweetest. Big respect to you Ray for sticking with it most would've been defeated well done you earned your beer that evening lol

[@TravisAIT]

A tool I used at Boeing to remove 'problem' fasteners, (I forget the official name for it now) was a rod that went in a standard rivet gun that would hold a bit at the end of it. This rod had a handle that protruded from the side so that you could turn the rod while slowly 'ramming' the bit into the fastener while turning it. It was quite effective

[@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261]

Shake 'n Break, or "screw knocker."

[@GeorgeMandry]

Hey, Ray - if you've never used it - try a penetrating oil call "Kroil" on seized nuts/bolts. It's expensive, but well worth it IMO.

[@forgetfulme1719]

I use 'Krill oil'

[@f.k.burnham8491]

I have used a thread file on the back of the studs when I have had the room to get to them. It does help. Also taken the studs out from the back side- that way you have much less rust to fight- again when i had the room. I have also been known to heat flanges and then put dry ice on the stud/bolt to shrink it. No matter how it goes, it is always a huge PITA. If you want a real challenge, try removing a broken bolt or stud from electronics gear. Can't use a torch on the equipment either.

[@jamesgeddes797]

The struggle is real! Thanks for sharing this segment, Ray. I think a lot of guys would have just bypassed the struggle. But it is good to see that stuff happens and that it does not always go easy. Thanks bro.

[@jasonlecreux1175]

A trick I’ve always used was using 2 nuts, heating it bright red and then using the 2 nuts as a jam nut then spin them out. Works like a charm!

[@richarddouchkov9453]

Oh we feel your pain Ray. I am glad you had a win in the end. Your perseverance is inspiring. It is during these times I would walk away and focus on something different. Quite often you will have an epiphany and work out solution whilst you aren't even thinking about it. Perhaps even whilst crying into a beer or whilst on the throne of contemplation.

[@electronicengineer]

LOL @ Throne of Contemplation! Nice.

[@pthomson9736]

You're ability to verbalize the frustration of doing that job brings back memories

[@briangier3176]

This is a master class on maintaining composure and a cool head. This job was already huge and to have to deal with stubborn fasteners like that would have have sent me over the edge. I hope that through some weird time/space continuum thing, you could feel all of our encouragement as you worked those studs loose.

[@jame3shook]

@11:25 another trick I learned (not having a welder) is when the stud is long enough is to double nut the stud, then turn the inner nut against the outer nut. as the inner nut can not go further than the outer nut, the assembly turns.

[@danieleaton1399]

Well done for your persistence, I'd try cleaning those studs with a wire brush before welding try make cleaner surface to penetrate

[@forgetfulme1719]

he was welding onto rust.

[@rogerbuford6561]

Ray, I'm so impressed! You have the patience of a saint. This certainly brings back memories of past struggles. Thank you for posting.

[@dieselchevette]

I enjoyed every second of you struggling with rusty stuff. Up here in New England, this is a daily thing and we're well versed in how to deal with this nonsense. Watching you struggle and learn more on how to deal with this was quite enjoyable. Give em hell, and watch Eric O's daily struggles if you ever need a moment of Zen on rust 😂

[@EzBible]

I watched Eric change a Honda timing belt in a 45 minute video. Took me 6 hours. Made a comment..... He replied hours of editing. Took 2 hours to get the last bolt on. The tiny 1 that holds the dip stick. Just can't get that 1 to line up and thread. Finally filed a slot in the dip stick bracket. Started the bolt with my fingers. Slid on the dip stick and then tightened the bolt.

[@dieselchevette]

@@EzBible for sure it's edited down when he's struggling to. Nobody wants to watch someone fiddle with an M8 bolt for twenty minutes. 😂

[@shaunsizemore5708]

Been there and done that my friend. I have a poster that reads....." Every 15 minute job is just 1 broken bolt away from a 12 hour ordeal"

[@barrysimmons5489]

That's the truth, I don't care who you are.

[@kevinhill5596]

I have always had luck by grinding the bolt flush and then drilling a hole completely through the bolt and then welding a nut to the bolt and inside the bolt. This allows the bolt to shrink and loosen up.

[@stevestorhaug1628]

Nice job it’s a pleasure to watch you and the patience you have. I’m sure I would’ve had a stick of dynamite. That’s why I’m not a mechanic.

[@turboslag]

With the amount of rust and corrosion on the underside of this vehicle, I reckon it's been driven through seawater once or twice. To get around that stud problem, you could drill them out and slightly oversize the hole, then use a bolt instead of a stud. Also, I would highly recommend that you buy an induction heater tool to heat up siezed parts, less hazardous than a torch and very effective.

[@waterloo123100]

If you use a torch safely you won’t catch anything on fire!

[@turboslag]

@@waterloo123100 Agreed, but it is still potentially hazardous. Obviously there are going to be times when a torch is the only way to handle some jobs but induction heaters are quicker, cheaper to use and easier to concentrate heat into a specific part. That's my experience anyway. Each to their own though, peace.

[@turbine2]

Never has a man been so happy that a stud has come out 🙂

[@tonylegon5682]

So good to know that real pro's such as yourself run into these issues. As an amateur it makes me feel a whole better

[@artillerest43rdva7]

YES !! been there done that! being in the NE rust is a usual state of all fasteners unless stainless & brass. any iron is iron oxide! great job over coming all odds! and through the whole issue you never lost it, nor used those 4 letter words { rain, snow wind } :-) great video even better you did not have to replace the exhaust manifold. you probably lost money on that job! but educational video. barry

[@jamesknoflicek]

Ray, this was the most painful video of yours I've ever seen. After countless numbers of these that I've removed, if you can't remove it with heat, take the time and patience to drill it out then re-tap the holes. The corrosion/rust above the flange is the demon you have to overcome! There is a process and it's a bit tedious, but 15 minutes and you're done and on to the next one! Just the same, any success is a success, congratulations!

[@Aspie_Geek_UK]

I think with each repair you do, you should give the customer a copy of the video on a usb stick so they can see the struggles you have/have not had with their own vehicle. Thats a very personal touch that nobody else does and would educate people as to why sometimes their car costs a little more to fix with you instead of joe bloggs down the road

[@RexenPrime]

There were a few things you couldve done differently to get this done sooner. I wouldnve just drilled the stud out, threads and all and used a nut and bolt combo when putting the exhaust back together. Ive done that before and it works just fine.

[@toddpeters9007]

Yep would work

[@bigdog7813]

That was at least a 4 Heineken job.... one bottle for each bolt extracted. Rest well and looking forward to the next episode. Cheers

[@glenwhatley7366]

You might want to invest in a flashback arrestor if you don't have one in your welding rig. Also, I wonder if using a dremel cut-off wheel to cut off the exposed sides of those studs would help you out. Your peanut gallery at work.

[@waffalobill]

What i was thinking. Hard to tell on camera how much room he has. Chop the top off, then turn it out

[@ken2tou]

Yes. I was thinking the same thing through this whole video. If the threads are buggered up on the exposed back side, just whack em off! Much less to unscrew that way. Ray’s patience knows no bounds. I’d have been getting a wee bit more violent with those studs.

[@livingstonbarrie]

I agree with you. Many of times I've been in this exact same situations working in a muffler shop. I would drill the stud completely out and put a nut on the backside of the flange. Just make sure it's a locknut. With a good donut gasket it will seal up.

[@waffalobill]

@@livingstonbarrie he got spoiled working in Florida. Doesn't know how to work on rusted bolts and nuts. Lol

[@Dixler683]

The nut weld does work but the fatal flaw is your welding skills/lack there of.

[@MrNolan911]

Glad to see real mechanics have the same problems I've had

[@djspbb]

I tried to weld nuts onto a stud before, the doctor told me if I did it again, he'd have to remove them.

[@d.a.2742]

In well over 200 plus transmissions replaced in my mechanics career ,I found a good torch and cold water with a rocket socket resolved almost all the situations as seen here ,in the other situations it was just easier and time saving just to remove the exhaust manifold and work on the stud removal or replace the exhaust manifold as they are not too expensive and yes the bolts or studs for those can have their own inherent issue but luckily they came out easier in less time ...also copper anti-seize on reassembly for the exhaust flange studs especially the end of the stud protruding from the top of the flange is your best friend if ever you had to do it again .

[@JohnHill-qo3hb]

Next time the Snap-on truck comes by, treat yourself to their stud extractor, it goes over the stud, grips the stud with a knurled eccentric, fits on the end of your ratchet/extension. I used to have trouble with exhaust studs and nuts, then my dealer's chief mechanic told me to try brass nuts, worked great although it it was on your favorite type of car, foreign, an Austin Mini Cooper S to be specific, a little before your time I think.

[@TheLawrenceWade]

I am not a professional mechanic, I am an above-average shadetree mechanic. I like to work on old cars and I live in the Canadian rustbelt. Every. Single. Fastener. I know your pain very well. :) I hit it first with a blowtorch (I don't have oxy-acetylene) and loads of penetrating oil. Then I grab it with a pipe wrench about 1/4" away from the surface of the flange. The reason for the pipe wrench is that it's the only tool which bites harder the more you pull on it. 1/4" away from the flange leaves enough to weld a nut to the broken stud. I hate having to drill them out and use a nut and bolt to attach things instead of the original threads, but.... I have to drive this car to work tomorrow, so that is what I am going to do.