Medieval Fairy Tale Fashion 2 : making a Victorian Smocked Dress

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We can't leave the land of Fairy Tales without spending a little bit of time on the lighter side of the protagonist. The smocked styles popularized by Liberty & Co in the 1880s seemed the perfect attire for this adventure. After all, to go through the land of smocking is a difficult and long journey! I may have taken on a sewing project a bit too large and time consuming for the space I had open, but I know it will be an incredibly useful piece for future ensembles of many different styles and eras.
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🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)
00:00 Liberty & Co
04:10 Smocking
08:38 Patterning & Planning
11:13 Neckline
16:27 Sleeves
18:34 Hem & Closure
22:14 Reveal

[@NicoleRudolph]

Visit birchliving.com/nicolerudolph to get $400 off your Birch mattress, plus two free pillows. Because the best day starts with the best sleep, and Bailey is awfully grumpy otherwise!

[@miaochs7716]

Love your puppy love in advertisements

[@roxiepoe9586]

An old friend once told me that her grandmother made buttons with her rings to ensure their safety as she traveled from her home in Poland to America. Her coat buttons and those of her husband and adult sons were cloth covered coins. Distributing the family's money onto their 'common clothes' ensured that even if they were separated by chance or misfortune, each of them would have some material resources to smooth the way until they could be reunited.

[@kagitsune]

This story is amazing. I wonder if it was common but relatively undocumented practice, given the stakes?

[@brendabignall9926]

Smart & savvy people! ✨🎇

[@davirasdarkside4263]

o that's lovely ♥

[@noaccount2494]

@@kagitsune this seems to be pretty common among various people that immigrated. I've heard similar stories from Irish, Italian and Romani sources too

[@7337blackwolf]

My grandfather’s grandparents did the same thing! They came over to the US in the very early 1900s, I can’t recall the year but it was just before WWI which was good because they lived in Russia (an area that is now Belarus). At the time, the town (including my family) was primarily Jewish, so they were hit with pogroms regularly. So the two of them packed up what little they had, stitched their valuables into clothing, traveled from Russia all the way to Western France, and hopped a ship to the US.

[@debbielarps]

Perfect for walking through your new husband’s drafty Manor House holding a candlestick, searching for the source of the bloodcurdling moans you are sure you hear coming from the attic!

[@batterbury4477]

Perfect!

[@emilyreames7748]

best not to open that single door he said not to 👀

[@valeriacavalloro2729]

A little fun fact: Liberty & Co. was so popular and iconic in Italy that the entire "art nouveau era" in all its forms, from architercture and dresses to painting and house decor, in Italian is called "stile Liberty" (the Liberty Style).

[@maggierobertson2962]

This is so cool. Thanks for sharing!

[@annaskopikova3554]

I just found out the word for smocking in my language - Czech - "žabičkování" which literally translated means "little frogging" 🐸😂🤣

[@robyn3349]

As in jump, jump, jump each stitch?

[@Hair8Metal8Karen]

That's cute!

[@halinakajfoszova4354]

Fellow czech here too!

[@Nahsaghara]

Oh wow, that's adorable 😂

[@barciba.342]

Cool. Thanks. :-D I was wondering, what the translation is. (Fellow Czech here.)

[@AliciaB.]

I'm stunned at how elastic the smocking is, despite not containing any elastic material nor any knitting, and even more stunned at the fact that you went & made a WHOLE DRESS with that technique and the result is absolutely ✨MAGICAL✨

[@stephgreen3070]

“I got it on major sale. Had NO idea what I was ever going to do with it…” lol story of my life! My stash is ridiculous and sometimes I just run my hands lovingly over the fabrics.

[@madeleinerose7090]

Same! I’m actually ashamed of the obscene size of my stash, but I love the fabric so much that it is literally difficult to cut into a piece to make a garment! 🤦🏼‍♀️

[@SpanishEclectic]

"I'll sell my rod, I'll sell my reel, I'll sell my only spinning wheel, to buy my love a sword of steel." Your final tableaux were fantastic. You are so impressive!! All of that precise hand work. My maternal grandmother grew up in NYC, in an upper middle class family. During her teens (1913-1920) she learned to sew, embroider, knit, crochet, make lace, and draw/paint with pen and ink and watercolors. I still have some of her lace (that would fit the neckline of your dark fairy tale dress) and embroidered pillowcases, as well as her Singer sewing books. You were indeed brave to take on such a large project for your first smocking adventure. Kudos to you!

[@monicapharo2330]

I began smocking in 1985 when I was pregnant with my first child. I bought a new Bernina, a 24 row pleater, and took several classes. Hand sewing has always been my strong suit. Over the years, I did a lot of general sewing and have sort of struggled with machine sewing concepts in general. I now am quilting (piecing and long arm), as well as hand quilting and other techniques. I am retired now, and in the process of moving into a new studio space that will accommodate all of my things and toys. Thank you for inspiring ‘adult smocking madness’ into my already overstimulated brain, I do thrive on the madness of it all… love your content ❤❤❤❤

[@LizzaLee]

Oh wow. I did a little bit of English smocking 30-ish years ago when my children were small. I always bought pre-gathered fabric. Doing your own gathering is HARD. I enjoyed it, but quit because I had carpal tunnel problems and early arthritis. Your dress is BEAUTIFUL!

[@kathyjohnson2043]

I was thinking about those 2 issues as well.

[@robyn3349]

I think I have also seen some sort of smocking board tool to help with the gathering?

[@Judoka26]

@@robyn3349 yes, the issue of these is the limited width they provide. Something Nicole talked about in her streams about this project

[@labyinthoiospotnia]

i am experiencing an unholy desire for those sleeves

[@robinsiciliano8923]

Your ability to persevere through long and complicated projects is so impressive! This turned out gorgeous. Always a huge inspiration to me.

[@Chibihugs]

This is a gorgeous gown. I love those puff sleeves! I am so excited and grateful for this video because I have photo of my great grandmother. She is wearing a smocked gown. It appears to be early Edwardian and this is so helpful in allowing me to understand the process when I try making my own one day.

[@nimuek3107]

Haven't even finished the video but liking for your OVER FIFTY HOURS OF STITCHING. 👏👏👏👏🎉🎉🎉(edit:ps. As a hand smocker, your work is absolutely BEAUTIFUL and blows my mind that you haven't smocked before!)

[@k.s.k.7721]

The Pre Raphaelites were mad for auburn haired "stunners" as they were called back then. The hair really completes the look beautifully.

[@KathleenStidham]

Have to say the BEST part was reading with your pup in your lap… The dress is beautiful!

[@croitoriafaraformule]

I am in complete awe.... the patience!! Superb dress

[@alexishawthorne]

Not only did you do so much beautiful work on the dress, but then you staged it for the reveal! Stunning!

[@jenhaynes9721]

Looks so pretty & comfy! Also - Rachel Maksy cosplay vibes! 👸

[@juliejay5436]

Hmm... Rachel wouldn't have the patience to do super detailed hand stitches... She would lose her marbles and grab the hot glue gun instead!

[@annbrookens945]

@Julie Jay: so true!

[@anna_in_aotearoa3166]

You're right though, the initial thumbnail fooled me for a second with the wig colour and just general fairytale vibe! Very Rachel 😆

[@graceface418]

That dress looks like it truly walked out of a fairy tale! It is stunning! As a kid I never understood why clothing was so expensive before the modern era and I fully understand why now. The hours you put into this garment are mind boggling. I crochet, and it has really given me an even greater appreciation for handmade clothing. The 20-40 hours it takes me to make a sweater put everything into perspective. Excellent work, as always!

[@quisnessness]

Very beautiful! Looks comfortable, too. I imagine smocked dresses and blouses like this would have been a status symbol back in the day, with the large amounts of fabric used and the time the embroidery took.

[@maureenwilliford8985]

I’ve always thought smocking was SO beautiful and you did a spectacular job!

[@hailtothefire_]

It amazes me how patient historical garment makers on youtube are. I would have given up after like one row of gathering haha This came out absolutely stunning! Speaking of stunning, that red wig looks incredible on you!

[@ArachneAnathema]

Doesn’t she look amazing with red hair?

[@sarahwatts7152]

Huge Vasilisa vibes. Here for it. All that smocking must have been a pain but it looks so good!

[@kagitsune]

It was so nice to see how you put together your backdrops, Nicole!

[@gennyfer8]

Can we take a moment to appreciate that Nicole’s fairy tale instinct is to just be Rachel Maksy?

[@skepticbat]

Big Rachel energy in that opening scene 😍

[@skepticbat]

I appreciate them both, and can enjoy both of them for different reasons. 😊

[@gennyfer8]

@@DSG851 I didn’t mean this as an insult at all- I love them both. Just a funny wig choice.

[@kathleenhensley5951]

My mother knew how to smock. She was born In Italy in 1913 and she was an extraordinary needlewoman. wonderful work, Ms. Rudolph.

[@jenhaynes9721]

Amazing how everything comes back around, I remember my Mom doing some smocking I think in the 70's. 1970's that is... Beautiful job as always! B

[@belle.diabolique_plays_guitar]

This is so fascinating! I absolutely love this style of clothing so I really appreciate your making these videos to share your knowledge with the world!

[@kristinamanion2236]

The sleeves! I love them. And I am very impressed with your perseverance in completing so much smocking. Beautiful and educational as always.

[@natasjacecilieveggerby7509]

I am sooo impressed! The dress looked amazing! I love how smocking looks, but i am super scared of the math 😅

[@courtneyx9845]

I really wanted to try smocking at one point because we'll it's beautiful. Once I realized exactly how difficult and tedious it is I was like nah. I'm fine not doing that. Kudos to you though. It looks amazing and definitely a labor of love.

[@BethAge95]

This is so gorgeous! I'm in love with the dress you made and also with some of the pieces you took for inspiration (the dark purple blouse from Amsterdam, I can't even!!!)! Smocking is already known from the Viking Age and I have to try it at some point. Although maybe not starting with an as elaborate piece as this. Absolutely stunning work and presentation!

[@MaryanneNZ]

Nicole! You need to know about smocking dots. They are a heat transfer grid of dots that smockers use. They come in different colours and spacings. Loving this, no shame in using the resources that are out there

[@NicoleRudolph]

They wouldn’t have worked for the curved neckline or for the minor adjustments I made between 1/4” and 3/8” spacing on each of the sleeve rings. Great for basic work, but wouldn’t have helped here!

[@lisastreet8920]

You provided all the elements of a good video. You talked about the historical aspects of the smocked dress, discussed the fabric and development of the design, demonstrated the making of your dress, and finally, the creation of the story where you wore your dress. It was charming. I liked it a lot.

[@cynthiaself9597]

Love that long red hair on you, it fits you beautifully. The gown goes along perfectly, allowing your medieval charm to come out.

[@sylviapesek5193]

Brilliant, as always. The utter softness of every element, from fabric to smocking, was so dreamlike, and the finish on the neckline was the perfect complement. Also, in all of your videos, watching your hands is a real treat -- they're so graceful, it's like watching a "hand ballet". I enjoy these so much, and though I may never make any of them, they do stimulate my creativity, and I think that carries over into other things I do, such as my knitting and crocheting. Just lovely, and so appreciated.

[@FirstLast-iv2tc]

What a beautiful end result. And I really loved the music in this one. Great video Miss Nicole. Thank you.

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Oh I’ve always loved smocking! I remember my aunt making us little smocked dresses. I’m so drawn to it that I must make myself something! Thanks for doing all the research and hard parts!

[@bettyjotatum6115]

I have long been fascinated with smocking, to the point that decades ago I purchased one of Martha Pullen's smocking gathering tools but have never used it. I also have tried doing a machine smocking using a ruffling foot and some decorative stitching with 12 wt threads, but obviously your hand smocked and embroidered work is totally more exquisite. One of your best costumes in my humble opinion! I hope you manage to wear it multiple occasions! Now, since I only rarely make clothing anymore, although I used to make special occasion clothes decades ago, I have moved to quilted wall art as I have become older, I need to figure out how I could incorporate some smocking on an art quilt. 🤣Great tip on the silk yarn. I managed to find it...I could use it for couching on by machine. Thanks for sharing this wonderful work. It would make a great bridal dress by the way. Cheers, BJ.

[@jayneterry8701]

I have some of those magazines and just can't throw them out. Children's clothing has been the only thing smocked for so long we don't think of it for adult clothes. In the 70s we wore elastic in the bobbin tops or dresses. Very easy to wear.

[@lorienmanookin8257]

A pleater will change your life! Definitely easier than trying to mark and sew all of the little dots.

[@OhAlice1951]

The final result with the red wig is absolutely giving P.J. Lynch’s East o’ the Sun, West o’ the Moon 😍

[@bethliebman8169]

Helleva work! You cleared up a smocking misconception for me. I have a memory from my childhood when my mom made a smocked yoke dress for me. I think she used a smocking attachment for her sewing machine along with elastic, I was intrigued that the smocking was so stretchy, especially at the cuffs, with no elastic. Very cool.

[@hotjanuary]

If she used elastic, then it has to be shirred/shirring.

[@lauralake7430]

Singer made an attachment called a smocking or cartridge pleater. They are hard to find. They could be used with elastic bobbin thread or basting thread and then steam set and hand stitching.

[@yvonnebruce6178]

Wow! I now have a whole new appreciation for smocked clothes.

[@megankenway8757]

This and the previous dresses were so beautiful! I loved them and fell into the deepest rabbit hole looking up pre-Raphaelite paintings and Artistic dress fashion plates.

[@kfries1282]

Absolutely gorgeous work! Seeing the time it takes makes sense as to why my brain associates smocking with kids' clothes: just so much less fabric to have to smock

[@jomercer21113]

Gorgeous There was a fad for cross stitching and smocking on small gingham checks in the 1950s. It gave the sewist a built-in grid. I have several aprons and tablecloths my great-aunt did. My secretary, 30-some years ago, had a Pullen pleater--a pretty nifty gadget for drawing up even pleats in preparation for smocking.

[@brendabelcher3197]

WOW! Awesome. Impressive scholarship. Impressive design. Impressive workmanship. Impressive presentation. Awesome. WOW!

[@lulu-qo6ed]

Oh this looks so beautiful! I had already heard of the reform dress movement, but now I really consider making a dress like this myself. Probably even doing some further research into the german movement as I live there 😊 And the smocking looks absolutely beautiful, I'll totally try that out!

[@candiwalkowski7480]

You know I like the juxtaposition of these two fairytale looks. The villainess dress has a hand sewn for royalty feel to it, while the heroine dress has a homemade with love feel.

[@jleet9758]

I have died and went to heaven. Love, love, love that you are covering this. It is wonderful.

[@alicepokorna7924]

I love the dress so much. I alread thought of making smocked dress and now I’m determined to really do it. Truly breathtaking piece ❤

[@YasuTaniina]

Smocking!!!♥️ I think of my grandma everytime. She made multiple smocked garments for every grandchild, as well as fabergé eggs. She did the English type of smocking. I didn't even realize there were other types. She taught me how to smock in my teens like 20 years ago. She passed away this last fall. I want to get a pleater one day

[@ushere5791]

wow. that's not smocking--that's SMOCKING! it's stunning. wow!

[@emilyrln]

The Tower Princess vibes here are impeccable!

[@MelzoA.]

How aesthetic you wanna be? - YES! 😍😍😍

[@OcarinaSapphr-]

I think it's nice how smocking was actually quite egalitarian a technique- yes, the affluent liked it- but so did a lot of common people, & it was also something for males & females; I had an old book on different sewing & needlework techniques- & one of the illustrations in the smocking section was a photo of this old farmer, in a top hat & a long smocked shirt, dressed up for market day- dude looked immaculate! Next to it was, quote 'a shepherd's smock' - Unisex fashion before it was 'trendy'!

[@draig2614]

When I was a kid (1980s), my grandmother made beautiful smocked dresses for all of her granddaughters. We saved them carefully, and they have been and are being worn by the next generation now. Just over this past Christmas, I was talking with one of my sisters and an aunt about her smocking - unfortunately she didn’t pass the skill on to any of her descendants.

[@saraharnold6790]

Smocking = a special and beautiful kind of sorcery 😍

[@anayacerinaryu]

I have long been fascinated by smocking. Not only does it look beautiful, it's a way to add stretch to non-stretchy fabrics without suffering material waste by cutting into them. A very practical thing during a time where clothing was often un-stitched and the fabric reused for new garments. Plus the stretch in the garments meant a more versatile fit. Not sure I'll ever have the patience to make a smocked garment for myself, but I do admire the technique very much.

[@sc0ttishlass]

Beautiful work, Nicole!!! And I loved the little Pre-Raphaelite diorama at the end :)

[@puppetplushmasters]

Nichole Rudolph giving us PEAK "forlorned maiden" at the end. I love it. I know this project took forever, and it's so lovely. Makes me wanna make a smocked high neck "dickie" so I don't have to do a whole garment. XDDD

[@susansamata3696]

You used to be able to buy transfer papers of dots for marking out the gathers. So much easier, especially for a round neck! Alas, they are a thing of the past. You can also use gingham fabric and use the interstices as marks.

[@lisamr40]

Between you and Bernadette you both blow my mind. I can crochet and knit and used to do embroidery but this is another level. Incredible work. Tfs

[@PolyvoreThea]

Omg that is how you make those puffed sleeves!!!! THANK YOU!!!!

[@studious_nonchalance]

This is so gorgeous and I am super intimidated by the process but fully enjoyed watching it come together. Your hard work really paid off ! I love love LOVE it!!

[@cypriennezed5640]

These beautiful dresses (villain and princess) are the perfect intersection between comfy and fancy

[@katwitanruna]

Smocking! I did it years ago and am impressed with those who are able to do it!

[@tierneykurfess2618]

This is maybe the most horrifyingly impressive project yet.

[@CandycaneLane999]

An absolute work of art!

[@susanrobertson984]

A lot of effort - it turned out stunning. At least it was worth it!!

[@annbrookens945]

The thumbnail looks exactly like a pre-Raphaelite illustration! I love those Liberty gowns, too. My grandmother used to smock pillows and I always thought smocking was very nearly magical!

[@briarwoodimp]

I have to laugh at myself when I read all the other comments by people who are now inspired to try smocking. Thank you,Nicole, for saving me from another guilt-laden UFO! Should I try a garment with this kind of shaping, and as a lover of fairy tale style, that's sure to happen, I shall do maybe a smocked neck or the center front of the waist and then resort to ribbon channels or (gasp!) a bit of hidden elastic, for all the other areas. Your patience is the stuff of legends. :)

[@lauralake7430]

I might possibly consider smocking a dolls dress. Maybe.

[@naturalcambion3747]

For a first time you left no crumbs. Absolute perfection!

[@rebeccabrantley4336]

Whew, I flashed back 26 years to my 1 and only time to smock. My daughters were 3 and 1 yrs old and I had the brilliant idea to make and smock their Easter dresses. In the south ALL little girls needed smocked dresses🤦🏻‍♀️ It was the longest month and sewing project of my life. I enjoyed cross-stitching so I thought “How hard or different could it be?”🙄 Oh how I was humbled! I finished them and they were pretty, but I swore “never again”. Now that I’m older and have much more experience I would actually like to try it again. I still have them and maybe one day I’ll have a granddaughter that can wear them while I tell the them the epic tale of how Grandma Slayed Sir Smockington in the Year of our Lord 19 and 96. 🤣 Your dress is absolutely stunning BTW❤️

[@Redboots]

I remember when I was about six my first cousin once removed got married and I was one of the flower girls, so my mother made me a beautiful smocked dress and to this day whenever I think of smocking I think of this bright green smocked dress (actually was kinda like an artistic dress, as much as mid-2000s patterns could be) with these embroidered flowers on it

[@svetlanasmirnova306]

Back in the 70th it was trendy - I made a silk dress with strocking, though in a way much simpler than here. I made parallel stitches with longest stitch on sewing machine where you can pull one thread to geather the buffs, certainly no decorative stitches over it. You've done a HUUUGE amount of work. Extremely beautiful!

[@candiwalkowski7480]

Ah, smocking! I haven’t seen any in person in decades. My mom used to work in a small sewing factory with some really old machinery years ago when we lived in South Carolina, they still did smocking, and focused most of their work on children’s dresses.

[@haveaballcrafting8686]

You can run a line of smocking on the inside as well any place you need more strength or durability, or a little less stretch. It’s a good thing to do first, roughly every 2 inches. This style of yoke is called the “bishop”, you can get guides that help you gather to the right size without having to out it on a body. Amazing job for your first try!

[@sabbyd1832]

Bravo ! Smocking is really hard. Wonderful dress

[@debcarroll8192]

You never cease to amaze me! This is just breathtaking!

[@kristenmorris4064]

This was amazing to watch!! You are truly gifted Nicole!

[@DawnOldham]

FABULOUS! The ending was so romantic and fairytale-esque!! Your fifty hours- over how many wheeks? (Sorry, I have Guinea pigs)😂 This may be one of my very favorite dresses you've made. Maybe because our four daughters spent years as babies and toddlers wearing smocked dresses! Bravo!🎉🎉 Well done!

[@darthbee18]

HOLY SMOCKING BATMAN! That's so GORGEOUS! 🤯✨✨ The sheer willpower needed to embroider all that gathering... Props to you 🙌🙌🙌

[@3rdmariah]

this is just incredible! I especially love the three puffs closest to the wrist. Gorgeous!

[@OdeInWessex]

Very Lady of Shallot vibes! We still do smocking in the UK, I learned it decades ago at school. I used it three years ago for baby clothes for a friend. I made him a little pair of Linen dungarees and a fine linen smocked shirt to go underneath it. It was only a very small bit of smocking but never again!. I admire your patience.

[@Niobesnuppa]

This dress is gorgeous, really gives off that fairytale vibe. Looks very comfortable too.

[@hazeluzzell]

I love all types of fabric manipulation.

[@amberhashmi1886]

This is stunning!

[@smiller6925]

I adore smocking, though I usually think of it as for children's clothing. My daughters wore Polly Flinders dresses (gifted by their grandmother) when they were small. Sadly, I see these dresses no more. I would love to own a beautiful nightgown made with smocking. lovely!!

[@latronqui]

7:38 "I was going to be doing yards and yards, if not miles and miles..." and in my head this immediately started playing: "and I will smock 500 miles and I will smock 500 more_".

[@briannawalker4793]

You looked like Rachel Maksey's graceful older sister! 100/10 would read y'all's fairy tale 😍

[@mehressagreen4615]

My first sewing project ever on my landscape will probably have smocked sleeves. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. With every dreamy pose of this listless woman reading in her gown, I gasped at the beauty! 😅

[@janellerowe609]

I enjoy your reveal set setups. You’re one of the few KZbinrs I’ve seen do this and it’s nice to see.

[@Bosquecito_de_Laureles]

Dear me! The patience!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@HobbyHopper]

Now I must try this, and with the hood, it would make a great renaissance festival outfit.

[@YetAnotherJenn]

Those sleeves. I would be terribly tempted to bastardize centuries and make them so they were removable as to better enjoy them on all sorts of different ensembles. Gorgeous work as ALWAYS.

[@triciaf8261]

I am always amazed by your meticulous work - so well done!

[@darkred83]

The dress is stunning! Your patience is so impressive Nicole, and what a result! 😍

[@pmclaughlin4111]

Not sure if they can still be found on the internet but Grace Knott smoking plates (patterns) are wonderful for this type of geometric smocking. There are also published books. Can find books from Martha Pullen as well. Also iron on dots are available to bypass the drawing of a grid. And finally smoking pleaters. It used to be that heirloom sewing stores would sell pre gathered inserts of offered pleasing services so you could just do the fancy stuffer

[@lorienmanookin8257]

Lucky for all of us, smocking is slowly regaining popularity, my guess is due to the beautiful dresses that princess Charlotte wore when she was little. Heirloom sewing stores and content creators are still making patterns and tutorials. Add in the costuming community with gorgeous projects like this and the patterns from Clockwork Faerie, and recreating your own liberty dress is attainable. If you can sew a backstitch, you can do English smocking. ❤

[@eleanorlaurent2303]

This gave me a whole new insight into my great aunts and their friends. I took it for granted that I would get a beautiful smocked dress for Christmas or Easter. I always felt the love that was put in them, but I never understood how much skill it took.