Fashion Doesn't Matter (like it used to)

[@NicoleRudolph]

I want to add that this video was scripted and filmed in October. I do feel like the end discussions about signaling safety to your chosen group still stands as a topic that needs to be pondered, even more so than before. The future of the next few years at least may provide us with a much clearer dichotomy as various groups attempt to find each other through shifting, and subtle, visual cues. But acknowledging that what signals one thing for a small community may not work outside of that range. "Safety" or "compliance" is not universal and we shouldn't expect clothing to make it so. It can certainly be included, but not relied upon solely.

[@Hanaconda_Aquaponics]

A number of my American friends have said that they'll be wearing more blue and rainbows from now on. I think it's interesting that it's colour not style that is considered something you can use to signal your beliefs at work without getting in trouble. Regarding the "signalling conformity with fashion part: my friend who works at a college has observed that nearly all of the students conform to such a strict dress code that it's practically a self-regulated uniform. My partner's kid is that age and is massively adverse to wearing anything colourful or detailed that would make her stick out despite what her personal preferences are. As a Millennial I feel like I can wear whatever I want and fashion doesn't matter, but this doesn't seem to be the case for younger generations. If "everyone is wearing t-shirts and jeans" then that is fashion even if some groups (e.g. geographical, cultural, economic, political) follow different trends, like they always have throughout history.

[@technopoptart]

you know what else signals safety and community? wearing a mask in public to reduce the communicable illnesses you are passing on to people who are more susceptible to becoming sick and/or dying from these illnesses. :/

[@jenniferroney6593]

​@Hanaconda_Aquaponics when an individual is trans and is at risk of harm when they wear what they're comfortable is terrible

[@Rowan.Evander]

​@@technopoptart This one! I don't have an immune system and even just someone seeing my mask on and stopping to put on theirs in my presence helps makes me feel safer.

[@rugbybeef]

I really like you close bob haircut as you modeled your coat and smiled at the camera speaking about your upcoming trip east. Not sure that it is new as sometimes I fear your hair gets a but lost in the dark background, but thought I would call it out as it looks very 1920s and fresh and super stylish. Also, if you need a recommendation and are in the Philly area feel free to reach out

[@ashextraordinaire]

My mom grew up dirt poor in the 50s, but her momma made sure the family always looked put-together in clean, freshly pressed clothing. She tells me she misses the way everyday people dressed up to go out, even if it was just to do the grocery shopping. Each of the ladies in the store had her hair done and wore a nice dress and shoes. Fashion was 100% a means of fitting in! A little later, in the 60s, my mom's very fashionable aunt sported go-go boots, a minidress, and the bouffiest bouffant that ever bouffed to her corporate job to stand out from the men in their stodgy suits. I do sometimes wish there were more context to modern fashion, but I'm also very happy that, for the most part, I can wear what I want without it meaning anything. Fashion nihilism?

[@Jennyonthehill7035]

"... the bouffiest bouffant that ever bouffed..." has made my day. Thank you 😊

[@ashextraordinaire]

@@Jennyonthehill7035 Glad to hear it! Came up with it on the fly. Feel free to use it too.

[@ariadne0w1]

I dress up specifically to do my grocery shopping, ha. Between thrifting and sewing I have so many Nice clothes and I never really go out otherwise - so where else would I wear my evening gowns and capes? But I don't mind that other people don't - lets me stand out more, ha. And takes the pressure off, so it's something I can do, not something I have to do. I think fashion nihilism is a good term.

[@PrettyGuardian]

My mom was the same in the 90s. We were poor but we were always presentable.

[@ashextraordinaire]

@@PrettyGuardian Exactly, poor but presentable. I guess we were lower-middle class in the 80s, and then definitely lower class after my parents' divorce. Still, from the way I dressed, you never knew I was lacking for anything!

[@bookmouse2719]

My Grandfather was from Russia, and (a long time ago) he designed women's coats, had a small factory in San Francisco. He used to go for walks in the evening, look at the stores window and draw, copy ideas, go back to work the next day for new ideas. This was in the early 1905- 1930s.

[@MrCallmebaldy]

So he was Jewish

[@mistersir3020]

are you )evvish?

[@racheltate2965]

Do you have more history on his styles?x

[@chrish2277]

Oh, they would have been lovely.

[@mistersir3020]

are you jewish

[@kristenhurst683]

I'm from a small town. We have the pajama and slipper crowd, the farm crowd, the overly badly tattooed crowd (clothing challenged), the yoga pants crowd, the metal band t-shirt crowd, and the hunting/fishing wear crowd. I know and love them all. I also sew clothes. Finding fabric that isn't fleece or quilting cotton is difficult. Thankfully, the internet fills that void. We may not be fashionable by big city standards, but we're never dull.

[@erinwojcik4771]

My small city is similar. I am one of the few "made it myself" crowd, and yes decent fabric that isn't cotton calico, cotton denim, or polyester fleece is a challenge all its own. I've taken to repurposing items meant for home decor (bedsheets, blankets, table clothes, and curtains) to fill some of that gap. Granted they are often still polyester or nylon, but at least it gets one more round of use before meeting the landfill.

[@LadyMiner100]

We live in the same town I think, although mine is pretty dull. I live vicariously through the internet!

[@amethyst_cat9532]

I remember when I first started sewing and I leaned towards tailoring and repair specifically because I couldn't imagine fabric stores selling anything that wasn't quilting cotton or pajama-type fleece!

[@Tea_and_Crafts]

How about browsing the online second hand stores that let you search by fabric type?

[@StoriesfromtheShelf]

I think what’s interesting about this as somebody who is from a small town again, is the way that small town communities have a very leveled field as far as income. At least in the town I was from you were some degree of poor. If you were not, you were signaling that you were going to the city when you grew up. The passion was much more about belonging to a particular group and finding distinction. If it was to signal wealth as opposed to subculture, you went straight to name brands.

[@unrightist]

I think hyper cheap fashion has made clothing so disposable people don't need to think too much about it. I think as people move away from that model, fashion will inevitably return. Probably in ways we can't imagine today. After learning about Derek Guy and the "fashion as language" model... Well, I think just as language is innate to humanity, so is the language of fashion, it's just in a state of great flux these days.

[@MossyMozart]

@unrightist - The fashion industry accounts for a good share of the trash in landfills. Especially disposable trendy "fast fashion" styles meant to last for one season and made from artificial fibers. Bernadette Banner made some videos on this subject in the past.

[@unrightist]

@@MossyMozart I am well aware, yes.

[@samsontheladle]

You watch that CJ the X video on this?

[@unrightist]

@@samsontheladle Yes

[@Jorvaskrr]

The west is working on blockading trade with China so that you only gobble down their b*lls. Maybe this will drive the desire to appeal to locally made brands. In Romania you still have old tailors that can make you suits however you like it for about 300€, payment for fabric included. That means if you want high rise trousers with pleats and wide suit jackets with peak lapels as wide as your hand or wider, they'll do it for you as long as you give them the fabric. There's stores in the big cities where you can buy fabric, in my town they even have Vitale Barberis. Unfortunately, since they aren't long for this world, the made to measure younger tailors with exorbitant prices are slowly becoming the only options.

[@vernieplummer5148]

I found this to be very educational. I am 64, so when I really came of age was the 80s, although I was certainly round in the 70s. My parents were very conservative, and until late in their lives, they would say things like oh everybody’s just wearing jeans it’s so sad, and I never understood what they had against it. My husband is a bit older than me, born in 1954, and he says he was not allowed to wear jeans to school ever. I was at least allowed to wear them occasionally. I just always wondered what everybody had against blue jeans and how they would kind of loop that in with being a hippie. I see now that it was because people were no longer interested in expressing themselves as a certain type of American. Just fascinating. Thank you for a wonderful talk.

[@PiskeyFaeri]

I love this so much, and I'd love a discussion on what "timeless" fashion actually is. I keep seeing it *everywhere*. "Don't buy this, buy that timeless piece, it'll fit into fashion for years to come!" or "Ten timeless dresses for every need", and I just don't understand what timeless actually means. What's "timeless" in 1970 or 1980 isn't "timeless" in 2020. I haven't seen that discussed anywhere, so I'm here pretty much begging you to explain it to me.

[@outdoor_kat]

@piskeyfaeri Great question. My first thoughts are, timeless fashion does not have a lot of "novelty" features that can go out of style. Nothing over exaggerated in shape or colour, and no excessive features like ruffles, bows, busy patterns, weird necklines or collars, etc. Well made and in natural materials, (wool, cotton, linen, silk.) Staples like blazers, blouses, and hand made leather shoes.

[@lenabreijer1311]

As above, something that is not fad, that looks a lot like simple previous decades. Especially what the very wealthy were wearing in previous decades. This is especially important if you want to give off upper management vibes. I used to look (in the 70s, 80s and 90s) what the junior clerical staff was wearing and avoid that. Another point is that if it looks like a rug, a table cloth or boudoir outfit then it is not it.

[@unrightist]

@@PiskeyFaeri generally a simple construction without strong statement elements or embellishments is going to be more durable (in terms of trends) than a highly specific style that has a lot of trendy embellishments.

[@isabellefischer5145]

I have a bit of a different reply for you. When you look through clothing of past decades/centuries, and you see something that you would still be able to wear today, that is timeless. I don't agree that it must be of simple construction, or in natural materials - those have more to do with the longevity of the garment than the timelessness. Don't forget that whoever wants to sell you "timeless" styles, still wants you to buy something. In my opinion, your own timeless style will be different from everybody else's. Your timeless style is whatever makes you shine, makes you self-confident, shows off your best features. If you think back, can you determine some clothes that made you feel like that? If yes, that's where your own timeless style can start. If you haven't found anything yet, continue experimenting until you do. Good luck!

[@hannahstraining7476]

It simply means that calling one's clothes "timeless" is currently in fashion. It will go out of style soon enough. 😉

[@stiofanmacamhalghaidhau765]

'fashion is dead' reminds me of 'the end of history' so it is not impossible that the purposes of fashion outlined here may just come charging back very quickly... as noted in the pinned comment

[@littlesometin]

Haha I love how theoretical this is getting. True.

[@samtyers8236]

Years ago, when I was a child, my father was a tailor at Burberry . He had a big pair of fabric shears, which I was banned from touching

[@katrussell6819]

Clothing quality is so very low these days. Mostly polyester junk. So sad. I prefer to shop at thrift shops to seek out natural fabrics.

[@SingingSealRiana]

Same, almost exclusivly own second hand in natural fibers. Cause I have no hang ups over hand me downs, I dress way above my monetary class

[@hinnahinna-j9y]

I think you're just cheap. If you only go to fast fashion stores, yes they are junk. Mid price stores are pretty good. The fact that mid price fashion are going out of business is because people are cheap. Everyone says they want good quality and unwilling to pay for it. That's why you think thrifting is good. You are just cheap. If you support expensive stores, they won't go out of business. Corporations answer to the market.

[@user-ln2yd4zt9c]

​@@hinnahinna-j9yI think u dont know what capitalism is...

[@illicxt7480]

No money bro 💀

[@PinkProvocateur]

My daughter feels similarly; and she started sewing to make her own clothes from natural fibers. Thrift shops have been a source of fabric, but it’s harder to find yardage.

[@ainsleyimparato]

21:53 OMG you went to Real Clothes, Real Lives! I am the current student research assistant for the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection. It's amazing to see the reception Real Clothes, Real Lives has gotten and the positive attention it has given the SCHCC. This exhibition is really a labor of love from Kiki Smith, who has spent nearly 50 years advocating for the collection, and the Smith students who love the collection.

[@AvecPoesie]

I have never before heard of SCHCC. I will be looking into this. I have a fascination with Smith College and plan to visit the campus in the coming months. I primarily wish to see the Sylvia Plath Collection.

[@KittyS-gg5gd]

Modern fashion designer do NOT design to keep - they want you to throw everything out and buy it all new every year. Environmentaly unfriendly waste of money.

[@williamsstephens]

THE COAT! Love your green one. I have one, a camel I bought in the 90s. Or rather, my youngest daughter now has that coat; she acquired it from my closet several years ago. They never go out of style.

[@somewherenicefarmstay6146]

I had a lavender one I made in the early 90's. Loved that coat. Don't know what happened to it. I think I gave it to someone.

[@because78...9]

As someone who loves costuming yes yes yes, we live in a time where a style of an item of clothing can say volumes about a person!!! This was a wonderfully informative video ❤

[@jms9057]

I could not possibly care less what anyone wears, what it cost, who made it, or what "status" it's supposed to signal, so this was a video I almost clicked away from. I may not understand the mentality that assigns significance to clothing, but I appreciate the window into that world. It was an entertaining and informative video, thank you.

[@fikanera838]

I bought a short, pale pink, swing coat from Max Mara Weekend a few years ago, & it gives me so much joy to wear, even though I can't keep it looking as pristine as previous generations of my family would have! I wear it with everything I own in spring & autumn, & feel it elevates my otherwise brightly coloured, inexpensive, second hand, or homemade, wardrobe.

[@s.f.nightingale1735]

I like the idea that our participation in society is sharing our joy!

[@fromisabella]

14:54 I live in a little medieval town in southern italy and my local notions store was established in like 1880-something, and the design of the store has all of the stock behind a counter that goes all the way around the store, so in order to look at and buy things you need to ask them for assistance (which, as an indecisive person who doesn't want to bother anyone, is my personal nightmare) but hearing this makes it make sense a little bit more now than it did before

[@somethingclever8916]

I remember watching Feud: Capote v Swans. And the Swans going to the department store looking for hats and gloves and sales team saying they no longer carrying them. And realizing their era has become bygone.

[@skirtedgalleons]

I love the coat, love the hand sewing shots. As I am now starting to make my own wardrobe (mostly so that my clothes fit me properly and I can make historicalish fashions), I regret the decades spent shopping trying and failing to figure out what I could buy to fit me, of seeing fashion trends come and go--most of which were not to my taste and/or not something I could wear and look good. Turns out I had the power to fix the issue by sewing. Vintage style not vintage values has changed my entire outlook on fashion.

[@pansepot1490]

Same.

[@somethingclever8916]

Balenagia is selling plain black cotton tshirts between $750-2000

[@HosCreates]

And they probably only cost$10 to make

[@shmataboro8634]

​@@HosCreatesand the sewist is paid 12 cents.

[@littlesometin]

I don't think they sell many of those. That's just a marketing gimmick to make the brand look as inaccessible as possible. Then the people who want to look like they can afford it, go and buy something more recognizably Balenciaga to make sure it shows that they can shop there. The basics are there to sell the more expensive stuff.

[@richardmacleod5253]

It's not just Balenciaga all big fashion houses sell expensive simple tees for a fortune

[@stefaniasmanio5857]

Dear madam I cannot decide what I love more: wether your soothing voice,or the super interesting concepts you explain so well, or you ability at tailoring these wonderful clothes. Thank you so much and enjoy your next trip! ❤❤❤❤

[@Authentistic-ism]

I really love all the historical artwork and photography you select. I always take hours to get through your videos because I pause on every picture and consume all the details!

[@theladysamantha193]

What a great video essay on this topic. The funny thing is that you say we have lost our ability to discern quality cloth and garments, which is definitely true. However, as I have gotten further into sewing, learning so much more about fabrics and specialty techniques needed to create quality clothes, I can't unsee certain things in mass-produced garments anymore. It's turned me into a quiet snob about it now. I certainly won't speak my criticisms aloud, as I don't want to be rude, but I definitely notice things now.

[@ariadne0w1]

I am less polite than you - I was stunned when my roommate was crowing about some name brand bag she got on sale at Nordstroms for only $100. It was printed plastic. I tried to convince her to return it and get a real leather bag on etsy for a fraction of the price but she didn't bite, ha. The obsession with names instead of quality blows my mind.

[@theladysamantha193]

@@ariadne0w1 Here is me being less polite: People are just straight-up brain washed by brands these days. The system is working exactly as they intend it to work. Though I do have to give kudos to the very few companies out there that sell expensive stuff, but the quality is worth it. But in the end, by far the best compliment you can get on anything you wear or carry is when you can say, not "thanks, it's a so-and-so brand and it cost X amount", or even, "thanks, I got it at a thrift store". It's when you can proudly claim, "thanks! I made it myself!".

[@spiralpython1989]

11:00 reminds me of the delightful movie, “Mrs Harris Goes To Paris”.

[@MossyMozart]

@spiralpython1989 - I agree with you about that movie.

[@HosCreates]

I loved that movie

[@DoomWaffle]

That's a gorgeous coat! And, Fashion Is Spinach is such a 1940's name for a book!

[@Sirigml]

Dear Nicole Rudolph, thank you very much indeed. So many beautiful and inspiring ideas that only outstanding comes to mind! I not only appreciate your perspective but blending it with many a new garment. Brilliant!

[@Jasmine-in-my-mind]

I second that recommendation for Fashion is Spinach by Elizabeth Hawes. She was a fascinating individual herself! Really enriched my understanding of fashion.

[@nightfall3605]

I adore your lectures. Not a single ummm or I forgot to mention. So clearly researched with analysis, examples, and further reading. And making the thing you are discussing as proof of your thesis is 🍒! 🧑‍🍳 💋

[@april_swingler]

I love your swing coat! One of my favorite pieces of clothing I ever owned was a green swing coat that I wore in the 90's. I still have it but the shoulder pads are far too large for it to ever be wearable again even though it might be voluminous enough to still to accommodate my much larger and older body shape. Mine was a kind of terrible shade somewhere between olive and acid green but it made such a fantastic wardrobe piece that I bought it anyway and never regretted it.

[@dsvance1]

So change the shoulder pads; should take about twenty minutes.

[@AngryTheatreMaker]

You're rocking that coat! It's fabulous, and the pockets look very roomy. I'm doing my best to keep up with a baby daughter, so I've been keeping my eyes peeled for wrap tops (speaking of styles that recur throughout fashion history). I usually find that the best current looks draw heavily from vintage influences; anything else bears a strong resemblance to what they used to call knock-arounds. Meantime I am discovering once again that sewing patterns offer more of what I'm looking for than a lot of RTW. Again, great video!

[@LynnHermione]

My mom tells me ready made clothes weren't a thing until the 1970s. She was still getting her clothes by picking from a catalogue and waiting until they were made at department stores in the 50s and 60s, the first item of ready made clothes she bought was a pair of jeans in the 70s and they were EXPENSIVE. And they werent "very wealthy", they were working class. My grandpa was a carpenter. Ready made clothes were what the very wealthy were buying.

[@l.5832]

Well, I was born in the 1950s and post war, ready made was the thing. When your Mom ordered from a catalogue, the department store didn't make the garment. They shipped her the ready made garment. Department stores DID do alterations in those days so if she specified an inseam length, the department store would have a seamstress alter accordingly. But they did not sew from scratch. I worked in a department store. When I was in school in the 1960s we actually looked down on 'home made' clothing because those people were considered too poor to buy in a store. So it was rare to see home made.

[@NicoleRudolph]

Ready made actually started being a thing in the mid-19th century because of the Civil War and other economic issues! It just took a while to have everything be available that way. Sears catalog started selling ready made in the 1890s, and so many others picked up in the next few decades. Having a store nearby that sells it is a whole different matter, however! My family in rural Indiana took the trolley an hour or two away to do their ready-made clothing shopping as of the 1920s. They had been buying work clothes already made in town, but "fashion" and suits were custom, catalog, or they made things themselves when they had time.

[@MossyMozart]

@@l.5832 - That was how Rosa Parks made her living when she was arrested on that bus - she was a seamstress in a department store making alterations.

[@splendidcolors]

@@l.5832 My mother made most of our clothing in the 1970s, can confirm that people looked down on me for it. But the fashionable clothing was poorly made from scratchy polyester with monofilament serged seams that cut our skin, and it wasn't worth trying to stretch our budget to wear clothing that hurt. (Mom and I both have sensory issues.)

[@jahirareyes1102]

@@NicoleRudolph depends on country

[@MrAnonymous2332]

Everyone wake up queen of youtube just posted again!!!!

[@sandyruffin4520]

That coat is STUNNING!

[@jenmckitrick]

I enjoyed watching you make that coat. I'm a quilter, not a garment maker, and seeing those garment-making skills in action was really interesting.

[@wangofree]

I just found Fashion Is Spinach in a vintage bookstore, and you're right, it's fascinating!

[@multicolorconverse]

I loved seeing you use weights !! My great grandma used to use butterknives to hold down her patterns

[@daxxydog5777]

That’s actually brilliant. I’m stealing grandma’s idea! Great for straight seams, especially 😊

[@Kehy_ThisNameWasAlreadyTaken]

@@daxxydog5777 could probably use square washers (for unistrut in construction) for the same, not sure if prices are are worthwhile though. Would certainly make for amusing sewing tools though

[@mwater_moon2865]

@@Kehy_ThisNameWasAlreadyTaken why bother with square? just use round like Nicole used. My issue with weights is that they really don't work for slippery fabrics like satin and linings where the pin holes can be so problematic.

[@Kehy_ThisNameWasAlreadyTaken]

@@mwater_moon2865 square washers are heavier than flat or fender washers that you would typically find, making them more suitable for this use.

[@robertacomstock3655]

I captured some purpose - made pattern weights from mom's studio . Plastic coated heavy things with felt bottoms, a muffin shape that's easy to grab. I've taken to tracing around the pattern with gothic school pastel (if I just say chalk you'll think I mean tailors', which I loathe as too faint), or ink pen and removing weights & pattern to cut. Works great until I change my mind. Still OK if I trace on fabric's backside.

[@edwardbynum1018]

Hi, I don't know if or where you're at in your trip through the east coast, or if everything is planned yet, but the Ava Gardner museum near Raleigh, North Carolina is worth stopping to see! They have I think around a dozen or so of her outfits, and it's not an especially large museum, but definitely an interesting look into Hollywood culture of that time, it's perspective on historical clothing, and on making do with wardrobe choices from the studio. There are a couple of her personal fashion items, which I think she used in her later movies, and maybe 10 or so dresses from earlier films. Also, there are also a collection of 19th century quilts and needlework in Old Salem, Winston-Salem, NC with the Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts, and there's a really beautiful standout called the Pinecone Quilt, also 19th century at the museum for the indigenous Lumbee people at UNC Pembroke. Can't wait to see what's to come with your east coast trip!

[@stephengreen-dowden9068]

Hi Nicole, great video. I'm a big hate lover. I had to buy a new hat last weekend. Most people don't wear hats anymore. I love a good fedora or bowler. It's all about personal style. I like wider leg trousers. I have long legs and I injured my left leg, my calve is twice the size as it is use to be. So, I have adapted. The hell with what is in, I go with what works for me. Love your work.❤❤❤❤

[@margarethall1625]

Love the coat! Love the history lesson! As someone who works in a thrift store I see lots of "fast" fashion come through. I also see lots of clothing being rejected due to stains, holes and on T-shirts inappropriate language or other stuff the place won't put out due to it's policies. There are also lots of brand name items and even couture items that come through. It can sometimes be mind numbing. I fully appreciate your videos on fashion and the nature of consumerism in fast fashion or the throwaway mindset.

[@ariadne0w1]

I have 6 pure wool or cashmere item from my local thrift store, and each had at least 1 hole that is the reason I assumed they were donated, and that I mended in less than an hour. It's such a different way of thinking, I can't imagine getting rid of something initially so expensive over something so small.

[@margarethall1625]

@ariadne0w1 I tend to wear out my clothing to the point of no repair. Apparently I take after my Dad who would do the same. I do shop at my work once I'm off the clock. I've bought fairly expensive leggings for practically nothing and loads of yarn for very little. I'm grateful for what little I can save. I make good use of all my purchases.

[@ariadne0w1]

@@margarethall1625 I bet! My weakspot is shoes - I end up buying most second hand because I just absolutely trash them and getting them new doesn't buy me enough extra time to justify the cost, they get worn to death in short order and can't really be repaired.

[@louisedykes4794]

People are dressing down so you don’t stand out. No flash no cut nothing that displays quality. It marks you to thieves. Not even bags or purses. I personally love cut fit and quality but keep it now for home.

[@twestgard2]

The 48 Laws of Power book talks about that. Dressing down is the new way to virtue signal. The basic idea hasn’t gone away, it just has a new way for display.

[@louisedykes4794]

@ oh sure I was followed in a mall fortunately I have an eye for movement and caught 3 tag teaming my movements. I asked for an escort to my car and never shopped there again. How I dress now is survival not a new Way to display. I find that virtue signal abhorrent and demeaning insulting.

[@JosephGoclowski]

Sad but true

[@mheinzle]

Oh my god. I love that coat, especially that colour! Beautiful !!

[@carenfeldman8854]

As you have presented here, if it's not the materials it's the quantity that people have used to signal their status through their clothing. Today given that anyone can fake anything by tapping into decent-looking mass produced stuff or trolling the 2nd hand markets, I think public displays of "making it" nowadays are through the "toys" one can afford. I have a few acquaintances who present like your ordinary Joe in their dress but make up for it by hopping into their Porsches or high-end Teslas when it's time to drive home.

[@NicoleRudolph]

Yes! I've always argued that technology is just as much "fashion" as clothing now a days. That's the way the past treated it, too. Fashion stores like Milliners sold tea, games, books, tobacco, even cheese!

[@NoelleTakestheSky]

I look down on people hopping into Teslas. The one person I know who still has one is looking into a different car since he doesn’t want to be associated with Asshole Musk.

[@incanada83]

@@NoelleTakestheSky 🤣🤣🤣Thanks. But on a more serious note...Owning a certain make/model car, doesn't always mean the person is an asshole. Sometimes, it's because that particular model fits the need/want all in one 🙂

[@avivat3010]

OOOOOO!!!! I absolutely love the clothing you create! The acid green colour is amazing, especially in that you were able to match the double knit? furry detailing. The buttons are perfect, the top stitching perfect and the swing is so much fun! The coat colour, as you know, suits you so much and looks wonderful on you. I remember my mother wearing this coat in the late 50's and early 60's. Regarding quality, my grandmother taught me to look for a full-length or at least 1/2 length chamois hidden in the back of the coat between the lining and the exterior, for warmth, as an indication of quality. I understood the feel of cloth, impressed upon me, and after reaching menopause, appreciate the breathability of natural fibers so much. I think we are returning to a time when money spent on good quality fabrics, if you can even find them, let alone identify them, and making a small set of clothes for oneself will be coming back just due to loss of ability to purchase. For now, there are still quality items to be found second hand, but in time, we'll have to find other sources. We won't have a mom at home to make garments for us; it definitely is a time investment! Ability to purchase will always affect our choices. Thank you so much for another very informative post. I can't wait to see your travel wardrobe!

[@jujubesification]

I'm definitely learning to make clothes, for this reason.

[@happyplum2822]

@@jujubesification Same here. My mother is teaching me the basics and handed me some old books on how to get every measurement you need. I have autism and sensitivity because of it. Clothing was always a nightmare, and I always settled for clothes that were at least comfy for me. I can't wait to make clothes that look just as nice as they feel! I already got a general idea on what style I enjoy :)

[@mwater_moon2865]

I never got to stop making/altering clothes, as I'm irregular proportions. (I'm a bit tall for a female but I'll all leg, so I literally buy petite tops if they're short sleeved and then tall for pants. Though for shorts I have to wear mens', because womens' are just too short. Dresses intended for below the knee or long sleeved shirts not made by me, must be altered.) That said my daughter from age 4 to 15 was too skinny for her height (when she started K at age 5 she wore a 3T in the waist, and a 6x -- aka 7 -- in length) so for a decade of her childhood all of her nightgowns/pjs and pants were made or altered by me or my mother for her and I can attest, even cheap cotton prints cost more than the completed garment costs. For jeans and the like it cost less money for me to buy off the rack jeans and then add fleece or fake fur as cuffs or crocheted lace as ruffles to the bottom of the leg or buy a larger size and spend a few hours (at min wage) altering the waistband then it did for me to actually buy just the denim.

[@avivat3010]

@@mwater_moon2865 Woah! that's not easy to do on minimum wage and working full time. Real kudos to you! Thanks for the correction. I'm from Canada and my thinking for everyday clothing related to other times... the 50's to the late 70's. As far as making a coat or other clothing of this quality level, including tailoring, fitting and material quality, which will last a long time, I think it might be less expensive than buying at least a coat of equal quality, but you would know more than I would! Thank you!

[@avivat3010]

@@happyplum2822 I hear you. My daughter preferred soft clothing. That's really cool. I hope you find it fun to do and rewarding.

[@wendybutler1681]

Before I watch: I see so much fashion inspiration coming from drag costuming. I'm a faithful Drag Race watcher and what I see there in makeup, hair, lingerie and garments, jewelry and shoes are showing up on designer runways and photoshoots. Some of the most avant garde looks are now edging towards mainstream. And men are finally included in the fashion fun! I've always wondered why men couldn't play with fashion like women do. Now on to your video.

[@christinefreeman2295]

Thank you ❤ thoroughly enjoyed...even as late as the 1970s I remember that many women particularly married didn't have access to their own money. Mums accessed or made many of there clothes and altered those in their wardrobes for changing styles, all the kids had some homemade clothes. I would pour over my mum's pattern books but hated standing still to get fitted.😅..

[@tristambre632]

Hi Nicole ! I wish to reassure you, as a young male stylist in a luxury imported clothing boutique ; there are still plenty of people out there who can afford and value fine fabrics and elaborated designs. It's a matter of how people are educated about clothing, so please, keep on doing your amazing work of teaching.

[@Rhaifha]

Well, this confirms that the vintage green wool swing coat I bought most likely really is original 50s. It's lovely and I wish I had more occasions to wear it. ❤

[@JJW77]

Nicole, I love your well researched fashion videos!

[@sharonkatope9885]

Nicole, great video. I remember my mother giving me a swing jacket and swing coat in the late 70's / early 80's and feeling terribly chic when wearing them. The style is timeless and versatile. My coat had the wrap around side pockets like the one you showed today and had a floofy fur collar. Good luck moving forward with your plans and your East Coast visit! I know you will do well.

[@Elvertaw]

God!! I grew up in the early 60’s and up until 3 years ago (when I went full remote) I had an outfit for every thing and very skilled at how to achieve my look with a small budget. I really miss those days!!! Now I express my status in how I put things or what bag I carry. Or how I make up nails or face. Cheaper and easier and works with jeans and active wear 🤗

[@jakobraahauge7299]

I love your coat! And watching you applying your skills is just a delight! Please consider making a chill out video where you use more footage and talking us through the process - I feel confident that I would see quite a few of similar pieces or pieces inspired by it out and about. It seems like very nice and comfortable garment and it's really quite elegant! I love the colour!

[@elaur73]

Thank you so much fort this video! I love all your videos, but this one not only was posted on my birthday, it also inspired me in the making of a coat I have been planning for a while now.

[@kb-ny3ln]

There is a picture in my mind of my grandparents in the 40s - 50s, with my grandmother in a coat of this style, and I just had to go look! I think she is! Its the A-line shape, with wide cuffs, what looks like a peter pan collar, and a short line of buttons. She looks very stylish! . Thank you for another video

[@MossyMozart]

Grandmother is still in style.

[@ThistleandInkwell]

I loved this one Nicole 🎉 The narrative of the evolution of fashion and the making of the chartreuse coat as it was made was so satisfying. Welcome back to the East Coast 🧳

[@jenniferlevine5406]

Beautiful coat! I had a 'duster' as we called in in the 80's. It was lighter weight than this but was a wonderful garment. Very inspiring. Thanks for the information and the sewing lesson! Wonderful!

[@mattanderson6672]

Fantastic discussion Excellent analysis Thank you Ma'am

[@sarahwatts7152]

I like that I can immediately tell that this coat will go really well with the 20s wardrobe

[@josephinedykstra3383]

It's fascinating the way life experiences influence this- I'm a midwestern engineer/ lab scientist who loves historical fashion (I've made a wool loose gown!) and a queer woman. I spend so much time thinking about how to signal that I belong to the same class/ status/ am worthy of the same consideration as the men around me at work, who wear the button downs or pullovers and khakis/ dark wash jeans that are a class marker. The jeans and sweaters that the women wear are similar; I match myself to it, but- it signifies. Looking around the office, you more or less know someone's position and class by their clothes. This is just at work, and I agree it falls apart outside of work, but- queering clothing still gets you noticed here, inside and outside the subculture. I'm beginning to suspect it's harder to see because we live now, not then, but that there's always been so many subtle differences to fashion that the people wearing them would say there was infinite variation then as well

[@Familylawgroup]

As you were discussing how American women would see European dresses in fashion magazines and would look for something of similar design in their small shopping options or they would buy fabric to try to recreate a desired fashion look. This led me to wonder about the history of intellectusl property protections relating to clothing and when various countries began protecting clothing designs and patterns. along the same query, I am also curious about the application of different IP protections for foreign fashion houses. For example, if France had the first IP protection on their dress patterns, it would be obvious that would protect the company from copycat within France. However, that protection may be meaningless in a country such as Guatemala if Guatemala didn't have an IP treaty or lacked IP protections as to clothes. While I am an attorney, I know very little about patent law. In America, patent lawyers are required to have an additional level of education and licensure to practice patent law. I believe as basic US patent lasts for 20 years but I don’t know if that is the duration for clothing patterns nor do I know how long IP protection s last in the fashion powerhouse countries. Further, how do these protections change if clothing is designed as part of a theater or film production that is also covered with IP protections such as copyrights? I wanted to suggest this topic as a potential future episode in your channel since I believe these topics are right inside your wheelhouse. Thank you for continuing creation of amazing, well researched and well-scripted historical content within the fashion realm.

[@NicoleRudolph]

It's pretty much impossible to do IP for clothing, even today. Specific fabric prints can be done, but the styles are so much copying over and over that there's just no way. The patterns themselves can be considered property, but are generally protected by employee contracts. So I could make and sell a pattern based on a famous garment and at most would just word the "style" carefully (basically can't say a movie name or company name).

[@Familylawgroup]

@ I didn’t even consider the employee angle of my questions. I was envisioning a scenario where a woman in the US could see a fashion magazine, similar to Vogue nowadays, from a coutier house suc as Burberry, and then recreate the design for herself. If she is successful in copying such a dress she could have neigh or's asking for their own "fake" Burberry dresses from said woman. Nowadays, there are large units of the US government dedicated to investigating and prosecutingm, both in civil and criminal courts, the theft of IP from the pattern side as well as selling designer knock offs. It is a crime to create an IP protected item and it is a separate crime to sell it, either as your own design or as a fraudulent item representing itself as the original. These protections were virtually non-existent, in the US at least, in the 19th century, and earlier. However, I suspect said protections for novel clothing designs would first appear in countries with a fashion industry in earlier centuries..I.e. France. I might be wrong about haute couture clothing and IP protection since, I susoectm, before "ready to wear" clothing appeared everything would be made to measure by the customer or local dress maker. I also recall another video (which may have been one of yours or @sewsrine) commenting that prairie dresses were often created with adaptable hooks or fasteners to accommodate changing weight or pregnancies, thus extending the useful life of each garment.

[@gabriellehitchins9182]

@@Familylawgroup the problem is you can’t copyright a style of dress (for example an A line dress is a A line dress no matter who made the pattern, and constructed it) you can copyright the label put on the dress but not the dress itself.

[@splendidcolors]

@@gabriellehitchins9182 Agreed, this comes up a lot in the maker communities when someone's indie clothing design gets copied by a big company after it goes viral. They can't protect a style, color combo, etc. just the use of the company logo.

[@NoelleTakestheSky]

@@Familylawgroup You can’t patent “useful” items, such as clothing patterns. We’d be screwed if this was the case. You can patent non-useful elements, such as a logo, which is why a lot of expensive brands put their logos all over everything. In rare instances, you can get a patent on something like red soles, or the blue Tiffany uses for jewelry boxes, IF that element is so intrinsically linked with a company. Otherwise, it’s 100% legal to copy a pattern, even exactly. This is how the knock-off industry is allowed to thrive, and why you’ll see, for instance, a purse that looks exactly like a Louis Vuitton bag, but the logo is obviously different, though “inspired.” You admit you don’t know about this are of law, yet are arguing against people who deal with it in the course of regular business. This calls into question how good of a family law attorney you are if you’re this intent in doubling down on an area of law that you know you don’t know about. I strongly suggest you step down on this. I’ve actually personally gone up against both 20th Century Fox and Warner Brothers on this, and they backed down.

[@KerriHammond-mr2cy]

I really enjoy your intelligent videos. The research that you do and your skills are impressive. Looking forward to seeing your trip!

[@francisfishing4913]

This is why I love making fur coats. They keep their value, they're hand made, they're so valuable

[@mrsgingernoisette]

I'm from the 3rd world, this is our big city: We've tiktok fashion crowd addicted to Temu, heavily inspired by 00s crowd due to social media, "I do not care" crowd which are positively Victorian- they wear any tshirt with any pants with plastic sneakers to cover themselves. There are also a small group that wears middle class brands like Zara, but for them Zara feels designer lol. In this scene, I believe fashion is going to be amazing (again) we began to love vintage, we learnt to sew with linen and wool. Personally I wear a 39 year old wool pink coat, for 7 years. I handwash it, I dry it by kissing :)

[@HosCreates]

Fashion is fun, when you know what looks good on your body shape. As a child and teen I didnt care . In my 20s i wanted to be taken seriously. At 28 i realised I felt frumpy and decided to chose elegance. Now, in my mid 30s I love fashion but I'm picky and I know what I like. But it took several years.

[@LoireLovely]

What an interesting look into the topic of fashion, and how its purpose in history and modern use continues to change

[@Littlebeth5657]

I love watching all the sewing and particularly all the different ways you are finishing your seams! It's biggest decision i have to make whenever I sew

[@Tera_B_Twilight]

My grandmother made her family's clothing all the time my mom grew up and even some of my clothes as a child. Wouldn't it be lovely if everyone could afford custom tailored clothing, even if it was just that they did the labor themselves. The price of textiles is sometimes MORE expensive than buying cheap stuff off the rack. It really feels sometimes like Corporate America (or internationals) have their foot on the accelerator down to the floor and there's no avoiding the cliff ahead.

[@kirstenpaff8946]

I would add that the sources and speed of trends has dramatically shifted. You can now have a look that goes absolutely viral on one social media platform for two weeks, but that you will never see in real life, because people only wear the outfit for the social media photoshoot, but rarely in their daily lives. I think performative fashion (i.e. showing off your wealth or adherence to a community) does exist, but it has mostly shifted to social media. When not on camera, most influencers, no matter how curated their image, will probably just wear regular non-descript clothes. So many of our social interactions have shifted online that we put more time into curating our online persona than our lives in the real world. I wonder if the rise of AI will do even more to destroy the fashion industry. If we can generate any outfit we want with a few words in a prompt box, and most people consume fashion through digital imagery, why bother putting any effort into actually sewing clothing?

[@judithvorster2515]

Keen insight

[@Art4ArtsSakeVideo]

What a gorgeous coat! and I loved the dark green sweater worn in the cutting-fabric section! Deeply envious... with thanks.

[@cherylrosbak4092]

That wide collar looks fabulous on you! Did I see the CN Tower in there? Another trip to the Bata Museum? I went into one of their stores in Prague a few weeks ago, just for the nostalgia.

[@projectrainbowscamp1996]

Oooh, I'm looking forward to hearing about your travels. And your coat is so lush. Thank you for the education and inspiration.

[@bethduffus4598]

The coat looks great! Well done. It's a big project.

[@persia888]

I totally agree and I’m very happy to see this. We are evolving beyond shallow values. Heartwarming ❤

[@moi1310]

When I was out with my mom I spotted a nice beanie with fading yarn. But I had three issues with it. One, that it's made of polyester and acrylic with only 4% wool. Why would I want a plastic bag on my head?. Secondly that it cost around 35usd. Why would I pay that for a plastic bag? And thirdly that it's supporting fast fashion. So I found a skein of yarn 100% wool that had the fading effect, and a mohair strand because I wanted to replicate the beanies fluffyness (which was plastic but mine wouldn't be), and took up my needles and starting to knit. I hope to be able to wear it soon as it's gotten cold outside.

[@AimeeSaid]

I really loved watching your sewing in this video - so helpful for a home sewing to see these techniques ❤

[@kieraoona]

I'm looking forward to seeing more of what you experienced in Toronto, and hope you had a good time here! (am from Toronto)

[@avivat3010]

I didn't know Nicole was here!

[@kate_m.]

1:26 AH! One of my favorite Star Wars memes! (What are the kids wearing? I guess “girls these days”* dress like Han Solo?) *”these days” were the early 2010s, and girls did indeed dress like Han Solo.

[@Eloraurora]

@@kate_m. I still love a silly little vest.

[@splendidcolors]

@@Eloraurora I just got a Land's End jacket at Costco that comes with a quilted vest you can button into the coat or wear separately.

[@georgethompson913]

I think the purpose of fashion has been replaced by luxury beliefs which people express through their social media.

[@amandapittar9398]

I’m in my 60s. I don’t think fashion is dead. I watch people aspire to spend obscene amounts of money on name brand bags, shoes and “leisure wear” which is actually worth a fraction of the actual cost. Expecting those who should be SAVING their cash for their future spending it on crap. No more buying a winter coat for the next ten years. Even RTW Designer Wear is disappointing now, their standards have dropped, loose buttons, skimpy linings or no linings - never mind hand finishing. Even the fabrics are cheaper. I have clothes I bought in my 20s, off the rack, and they would be seen as luxury now. Fashion has gone haute couture, to the street, it’s just in a state of flux. I prefer to thrift and make my own. I just find most clothes in stores…….sad. Your coat is beautiful, the chartreuse colour a dream and it hangs so nicely- it’s perfection 😊❤😊

[@ariadne0w1]

I think she was mainly focusing on the lack of social cohesion in terms of fashion. Yes, there are trend-chasers and Name Brands that signal wealth (or aspirations thereof) etc but it's not like in the 1800s where you can say the sleeves changed like this and the skirts changed like that, and that is how those who could afford it dressed that year, and what those who couldn't mimicked best they could. So it's not dead, but it just doesn't matter in the same way. Yes, we know what name brands mean but as you mentioned they are ever-cheapening, and there are so many different fashions for different groups that it doesn't really matter what you wear, just how and where. I can wear my edwardian ensemble to the store, my medieval kirtle to hang out with friends, and something butch and corporate to the office and it's just a fun thing I do, rather than a Statement and a Big Deal like it would be even just 50 years ago (or so I assume, I welcome being corrected).

[@CampingforCool41]

I just do not care about fashion. I want comfortable clothes that are well made. If I had the money I’d love to buy top quality clothes made with natural fibers. But I use what I have and that’s good enough.

[@applesocks89]

14:08 to 14:36 is just a straight up lie. “Shopping and excess consumerism was a way of life for everyone” this is simply not true. The majority of Americans at the time remember were dressed with a mix of handmade clothes and store bought all the way up into the early 80s. Being poor was a normal thing for millions of Americans and hand-sewn clothes made from patterns were extremely popular and normal, most everyone was not out buying the latest clothes, they had grandmas, aunts, and mothers at home making them. Most Americans could not afford to go to the mall regularly until the 90s. Just ask your family

[@debbralehrman5957]

Thanks Nicole I always enjoy the information you share.👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 🍂🍁🍂

[@internetfox]

the b roll throughout this is so pleasing to watch!

[@nattiex3735]

Among the well off, it's brand association that is considered to be the most important thing nowadays, and the style/fashionabilty of individual garments gets thought about afterwards. Nowadays styles change constantly, and we are always being pressured through advertising to participate. Most people don't alter or repair their clothes anymore, unless the item is very expensive or has sentimental value, and existing clothes are sold on/disposed of and replaced.

[@singingneedle953]

Another great, informative video. Thank you! And I'm very intrigued about your upcoming roadtrip videos. Looking forward to them 😊

[@pengruiqio]

Love watching you make stuff ❤ I’m making my first pair of stays and I’ve only just watched your stays video 100mil times

[@amykendrat1701]

I just love watching you sew and your voice is quite meditative.

[@user-yc4fz7vv6u]

I love the buttons you used on your coat.

[@NicoleRudolph]

They were in my vintage stash from my grandmother! I think they were 1980s, but they actually are meant to be little mushrooms!

[@dagnolia6004]

i had to watch this TWICE, so enjoyable. once to listen~ once to watch the LOVELY video. enjoy your travels!

[@nblmqst1167]

I loved Eve Arden (as Miss Brooks) in her Swing Coat. Such fun.

[@robinbirdj743]

That coat is gorgeous. Some can still see quality fabrics and workmanship! ❤

[@sarahbettany7546]

There was a phrase used in 'The Devil's Whore' that I always loved as a compliment - "You look like yourself". I think that's where we're reaching for now.

[@graphixkillzzz]

things that don't need to matter to anyone, will matter to those with the luxury of allowing unnecessary things to matter 🤔🤷‍♂️

[@victormalmanzar77]

Thank you for educating us. And you have a gift as a fashion designer. Congratulations on your amazing creation.

[@daisukidatotoro]

Your coat turned out beautifully.

[@betsymcc61]

Thank you so much for your very intelligent observations. I love your soothing voice! And the coat is divine!

[@kristenrosales2919]

Fast fashion is ruining the fashion industry in addition to lowering the quality of the materials.

[@kikidevine694]

I'm going to be interested to see what the impact of any tariffs have on the US clothing market. I think it's going to be the high end garments will see a more extravagant use of imported fabric and lower end brands going super skinny and short

[@NoelleTakestheSky]

People are going to return to buying fewer pieces and having to take care of them.

[@aseel7845]

Hi! what kind of thread are you using for that coat? I've been sitting here nervous for that thread but it's so strong mashallah! (The greeny beigey thread in 19:50)

[@daxxydog5777]

I see women around my area who clearly have money, and I’m sure they look down on me with what I wear, but I feel good in my clothes and I’m comfortable, while I think a woman in her 60s dressing like a 20 year old is silly. As I always say, just because they make something in your size does not necessarily mean you should wear it. I remember my mom wearing such beautiful suits and heels, and she’d never have been caught dead in the grocery store in hair rollers and a housecoat. I remember my father being horrified when that started in the 60s, lol.