Men's Boulder & Lead final || Laval 2023

[@joeomundson]

Yannick fan ever since that time he spent his last minute brushing the holds for Adam. Dude seems so chill and steady

[@scrotus7385]

so real

[@hobgoblin7336]

Adam's move on M4 should be called "tree-bar" because its a knee-bar with the legs in the tree pose from yoga

[@thdjjfsfh]

I would like to nominate the "Tree-bar" as the name of this move.

[@lovelynxie]

1:39:21 for timestamp for those who didn't remember the move

[@FainTMako]

Some people just call it "useless" because it didnt serve any real purpose but I guess the move did please some of the people who are just in it for the visuals lol.

[@wabdih]

@@FainTMakoHelped him get to the zone so not completely useless. Could probably be better used on other boulders though admittedly

[@xmichaloekx]

They named it Flamingo. Quite accurate I think :D

[@kim98677]

He made sure there was absolutely no doubt, what an unbelievable finish.

[@Jagknorr]

Seriously. The points were like .1 higher than Alberto…which would have been absolute agony. Luckily he just absolutely smashed the whole route so it was only the regular kind of agony for Alberto 😂. I do hope he makes it in eventually.

[@ASilverNMeep886]

11:25 Boulder M1 Introduced 12:19 Climbing Starts 2:11:45 Lead Observation 2:24:08 Climbing Starts

[@levanizandarashvili2464]

Thank you dear sir/madam

[@anpredictable]

Thank u

[@GTkoze]

I love you

[@cyberboss496]

i love you

[@Loveyogaanatomy]

You both are such great commentators, thanks for adding insight and tension. Loving Shauna's knowledge.

[@thomaskositzki9424]

+1 Seldom that you hear such sympathetic, empathic and knowledgable commentators! Very fitting for such a sport. Hope you guys are with us for a long time. 😃🥰

[@nilsp9426]

Excited to have these back on KZbin in full length! Thank you! This can only be good in terms of spreading the climbing enthusiasm.

[@thomaskositzki9424]

Indeed!

[@nixonhanna]

So happy for Toby but man my heart goes out to Adam. That foot slip has to hurt

[@NikoIden]

Ye… at least the good news for Adam is that he still wouldn’t have came first since tony had more points in boulder.

[@Jagknorr]

^^ this. Adam would have gotten beaten anyways if he topped it too. 😢 Them young guns really making the good ole boys work for it.

[@shmalts1]

That being said ondra is honestly looking better than ever. His adaptability to new styles is literally unmatched and he’s looking so strong

[@karabas1543]

Really bummed for Adam's season! So many slips/mistakes where we all know he could've done so much better. But yeah, I'm comforted by the fact that Toby would've taken it anyway. What a beast!

[@cornball1111]

​@@shmalts1really? I felt like the commentators were right - he keeps coming up short on avoidable mistakes.

[@kim98677]

I'll never get enough of Shauna and Matt they have such flawless chemistry

[@DanKonecny]

Like to hide spoilers 😊

[@FainTMako]

Dislike cause this is lame.

[@Hahtaitai]

This is great!

[@anvil-o4l]

​@FainTMako tell me how?

[@PPKFilms]

@@FainTMakowatching the replay tonight and got effing spoiled when opening it on my phone with a « happy for » comment. Kinda ruined the fun… so I wanna give all the likes to that guy

[@DanKonecny]

​@@PPKFilmsexactly what happened to us 😅 Let's help others to enjoy the sport we love

[@goloher]

Over the moon happy for the men's winner! But this format is just heartbreaking. As if there shouldn't have been silver and bronze. Watching outstanding athletes almost crying having to stand on this podium was upsetting. Seems like either just 1 winner and no podium or all 3 get tickets would have been more fair.

[@alexanderfradis9026]

100%

[@carinam8970]

I agree with only just one winner and no podium. I don't think that giving the top 3 from every continent the Olympic tickets is ideal, especially when there's only 20 spots.

[@dakiblabla]

Well yeah, that crashes that myth that climbers are genuinely happy when their competitors thrive. Up to a point, like any other sport or area of life.

[@goloher]

@@dakiblabla sad to see this happening because - just my feeling -of this Olympic hype. Kills the kinship.

[@dakiblabla]

@@goloher I think that both things exist in climbing - some people just like to climb and are happy to share, and some like to compete. Even outside, first ascent, grade fights, speed records... it's not always amiable.

[@thdjjfsfh]

It was super exciting to have Shauna in the commentary box. Very insightful.

[@daphnecrete3623]

2:36:28 is when Yannick Flohé loses his glasses, the rope knock them out and you can see the light flash in the glass' lenses as they fall 😅 Glad they survived that drop lol

[@rhettetherington1351]

Brilliant to be able to watch all the semi-finals and finals. Great coverage and commentary

[@pyehrra]

I can't imaginen being in Alberto's shoes. Those 2 emotions he felt after Adam and Tobby, felt that but he definitely has a chance to qualify.

[@longb1913]

2nd and 1st place werent even close.. points wise

[@pyehrra]

​@@longb1913I didn't say anything about points for a reason. Anything can happen during a lead wall, that's why I understand how Alberto was feeling and why I wouldn't want to be in his shoes knowing that Adam and Toby are fierce competitors.

[@gnaagren]

Idk how exactly the qualification process works, but I'm sure we'll see many of these athletes in the Olympics anyway. I feel like he has a good chance at qualifying. (Which will be no good consolation to him right now.)

[@lazymary2200]

Shauna doing a great job❤. Please invite her more often!

[@thomaskositzki9424]

Just a good hour in but I just want to share my fascination with watching climbing - even climbers I am not rooting for and are not up in the scores much bring so cool moves at times that you just stand in awe! 😯😃👍

[@PaulCoxC]

I love that Toby seemingly kept looking at his Dad whilst saying how much he had helped and how thankful he was

[@cookie4jul]

I love the commentry, both Matt and Shauna give great and insightful comments. I do wish thought that they would refrain from spoilers. Sometimes I can't watch the competitions live or in the right order and then they casually drop who had won the woman/man competition earlier on. :(

[@benoitbergeron8858]

The interview at the end was really nice. It felt like the conclusion of a great epic.

[@xGakuenAlicex]

Big congrats, Toby! Such a sweet moment with his dad. After all that pressure in Bern, I'm so glad to see him bounce back and bloom! Heart goes out to Adam for sure.

[@Hahtaitai]

Thanks for the spoiler 😢

[@StephaneDubois-ie3tb]

Stupid spoil

[@arrrriba]

​@@HahtaitaiLiterally nothing more annoying than people complaining about spoilers Here. People ALWAYS discuss the comp in the comments of IFSC streams. Just don't read the comments. Your own fault

[@Hahtaitai]

@@arrrriba I did not check the comments. top rated comment is shown directly under the video on the phone. To avoid the "big congrats Toby" I would need to partially blind myself. I watched it shortly after it was live, there is truly no reason to put this into the comments. Other comments simply write "big congrats to the winner", very easy.

[@milksushi6640]

@@Hahtaitai tbf that is my strategy, squint my eyes until I can go full screen

[@edmarkmaestrecampo3805]

What an intense finals!

[@andrearamirezreyes3055]

Ohhh i am soooooo happy for toby 😭😭😭 really haaappy. Oh boy! I am really excited for the videoblog of this comp 😍

[@tylermartin9225]

toby absolutely dominated this comp! excited to see what he has in his future

[@tokarteam1]

Please make Shauna a permanent cohost. They vibe so well and she adds so much to the commentary.

[@user-hr9hg2eh5c]

please not, she talks way too much... its annoying and gives people headache. hope she can only talks about important matters.

[@imaginebeinggood3471]

​@@user-hr9hg2eh5clol what? It's literally her job to talk

[@masterpropper2485]

People might have different opinions, but from a professional commentator view, Shauna is definitely the best commentator (or co-commentator) we ever had.

[@masterpropper2485]

@@user-hr9hg2eh5c It's a commentator's job to keep the flow of talk and not have any awkward periods of silence ...

[@MikeCampo]

​@@user-hr9hg2eh5cyeah it's too much. I always end up muting these events lol.

[@alpenacademy]

Incredible performance by Toby. Really incredible, was on my feet watching his lead climb. For most of the time Adam Ondra couldnt keep up with the top 5 this year, probably due to his focus on rock and also hitting the 30 years. But still a pleasure to watch his interesting solutions for different problems. Regarding setting: Men finals were partly worse than the women. M4 was a real nonsens. There is no way a setter or anyone else made the final move. Not even isolated from all the other moves. The problem wasnt weak climbers. Physics was the problem there. Great final for this season. Cant wait to see the qualification events next year.

[@StephaneDubois-ie3tb]

Stupid spoil

[@jfro8723]

Jakob is older than Adam and still better in the comps

[@spacevadr10]

yeah i think Adam just struggles at comp. He's talked about it before not being his strong point@@jfro8723

[@wmchoi1474]

3:10:03 A figure-nine !! Dang! First time seeing a figure 9 on sport climbing!! Kinda interesting that the commentators are also not familiar with figure-9 and commentating it figure-4.

[@riccokane]

Well spotted, I thought the same thing! It is quite rare in lead so that could explain it, but yes clearly a figure 9 (Same side leg over the arm, figure 4 is the opposite side leg over the arm).

[@RaveMasterr]

I'm up for Alberto but Toby.. that was a magnificent top out. Amazing athletes!

[@Myself_Official]

Sam dominating boulder in front of his home crowd, and 3:07:24

[@chingfhen6534]

Nice Flamingo Bar Adam🔥🔥

[@floijd]

The only way to make the ceremony even more cruel for second and third place, would have been to present them with a gift card for a eurosport+ subscription - or to wherever they stream the olympics. I mean, what were they thinking?

[@karlaart6971]

once shauna really figures out to dial back some commentary, she’ll be perfect! love her insights

[@bloodink9508]

Why didn’t Adam get 3rd due to count backs? Didn’t Adam come out of Semi-finals higher ranked than Sam Avezou? They both scored a total of 132.9 so why didn’t the count back kick in? What did I not understand about this?

[@misatsundere399]

I have the same question

[@exactified]

Also, on Adam's lead climb, the extended draw had a flipped rope side biner. On routes that are at the limit, him having to fix it before clipping could have cost him that extra move he needed at the top. I was so sad to see that happen at a top level comp. A failure of the belayers. They are supposed to check everything before the climber starts.

[@1lomi901]

I didn't know half the climbers, I was very pleased to see all of their performances, outstanding work

[@MrTannels]

2:12:23 is so clean how they do the moves similar 😂

[@LePetitBat]

Omg yes 🤯

[@alicegonam]

You could feel the tension in the commentary box, Matt and Shawna truly delivering

[@TheMinarus]

The commentary is brilliant and extremely entertaining!

[@sanjidaarchi7612]

Can anyone explain why Sam was in third place?? He and Adam had the same score. What’s the rule regarding same scores in this point format??

[@patryks.5229]

What a final🤯

[@andrearamirezreyes3055]

Oh no vi venir la posible victoria de alberto... Lo amo! Estas competencias para clasificar a los olimpicos son tan difíciles de ver, por que ves la increible mejoria de todos y es doloroso ver que aun asi no triunfen.

[@tomasgomez3617]

33:21 Sam Avezou est clairement au dessus avec cet enchaînement + finish, la relève !

[@chabicanada7741]

Albertooooooo!!!!! ✊🏼 Tendrás tu oportunidad.

[@dakiblabla]

No camera in iso. Come on. As a spectator I have no interest in intruding on the climbers in their moment of concentration. Not everything needs to be reality tv.

[@NicklasLinnemann]

Can we get post analysis. Sounds like an absolutely amazing idea!

[@Michael10Bell]

Why can’t they do a table with athletes on left and boulders as the column labels. Then we could see how everyone did in comparison on each boulder

[@renauddespax8581]

Impressive and beloved Oriane and very impressive Toby, congrats to both and thanks to Shauna's return

[@Pflunze]

why is the camera always at the wrong angles? Just show the basic front one all the time please

[@pattiemurr]

Lead starts at 2:23:50

[@BuenoSociety]

Adam Ondra on MDMA :D best mood ever in competition probably

[@ihavetreefiddy]

Wait what?

[@jaydee7741]

Sam and Adam got the same total score. Shouldn't Adam be ranked higher based on countback? Or do they factor in time on the lead wall into total score (which would make no sense in a combined format)?

[@anvil-o4l]

I was also confused about this. The only thing I could think of was that Sam had a higher max score in one of the two disciplines. It's ifsc though so it's also possible the scoreboard was wrong..

[@YozoraRain]

I didn't read the rulebook but I think I remembered Tomoa mentioning in a video about Bern, that if he had made 1 more move in lead, that he would have had the same score as Colin Duffy, and that he would've been guaranteed an olympic ticket due to him having a higher bouldering score.

[@jamespatterson7901]

When there’s a tie it goes to prelim qualification score.

[@LukeSeed]

Please add more info on the description including the commentators

[@artemkondratyev2805]

please please have both athletes on split screen simultaneously when both are climbing, like they did at asian qualifiers

[@chiz161190]

5:19 Adam already chalking :D

[@chris_devlog]

That finish! Wow

[@j.t.schroff131]

i climb with glasses and i use ROKA, really hard to knock em off even when going for big moves

[@andythequeenfreak]

How come Sam Avezou was given 3rd place? He had the same score as Adam Ondra, but Adam qualified higher. I thought, in the event of a draw, it went to countback

[@AslakIrmanpoika]

Why was Adam the 4th and Sam the 3rd, when they had the exact same amount of points?

[@TomasBank-z9p]

1:03:56 - i hear what i hear and i hear it.

[@karlchop]

Love how AO is chalking up even during the observation & introductions 😂

[@liverpoolarmwrsetling]

What a finish 🎉

[@Alex-to8es]

The commentators keep saying about the orange tension based crimping boulder as being "basic" and "old school", but reality is these proffesional atheletes are failing to complete it, and these competitions should be about diversity of skillset, not necessarily who is the most dynamic and "springy" boulderer. While no one would want to see every Boulder like this, as it would mean other types are missing, there is no reason this type shouldn't be in the mix and being supported when set if at an appropriate difficulty, to make sure the best all around boulderer is winning these competitions. If you can't complete this style and others can, well you just aren't "good enough" then!

[@thomassummers249]

Inspiring stuff Toby!!!

[@GaryEnglish-k9s]

Superb!

[@amaliamorris7164]

Toby and his dad litterally made me cry

[@christophersieben4617]

Love shauna in the commentary Box. I Hope they make it a regular Thing :)

[@SFrank-wk1os]

much better now 😊 🙏

[@danboas1784]

A huge well done to Toby Roberts. Amazing performance and well deserves his place in next years Olympics. 👏👌

[@milksushi6640]

Sam had some really great beta on that first boulder - kind of similar to Mika on the slab in semis. Everyone else was going for the final hold once they got the side-pull, pulling into and up the wall, but he was able to actually push a bit down and away from his foot to get more comfortable on the side-pull before statically reaching the top. It seems like that theme comes up a lot in bouldering - can you, within 4 or 5 minutes, both follow your years of climbing instincts and also not get trapped by the thought of needing to get directly to the next hold or up the wall. Super well-set move

[@IzSaru]

Now, that's the way to close a final.

[@juanignaciosiris8779]

Tremendo lo que escalaron!!!

[@fabiopalma4429]

Spoiler: Janja Garnbret wins

[@KodakYarr]

🤯

[@optimusprime9456]

43:13 - Just look at that right hand muscles. At first he looks skinny, but seems he is extremely strong.

[@doposud]

3:06:11 when you stop it and look at the pic , why everyone except Adam has shoes ? :D

[@easorion]

This isn't new, but Shauna Coxsey is _so good_ at commentary; the level of detail she shares about very movement are wonderful. Dream pair of commentators here.

[@abfab90]

Can someone explain what Shauna is talking about when she says "because Oriane qualified here, another female French athlete can qualify next year". Does this in any way mean that only one male French athlete can qualify next year even if they have a quota for two?

[@oladapoawoniyi37]

I think what she meant is because France is the host, even if another of their athletes don't qualify through the Qualifier series, France still has a host country spot Edit: there are still stipulations on rankings but France has really good climbers. For there to be two men, at least one must qualify through the series

[@lill8537]

It’s 2 per sex per country (maximum). So 2 women and 2 men per country maximum get to participate in the Olympics. Because France is the host nation, they have the advantage of putting someone else through even if they didn’t qualify through the system to make up their maximum quota.

[@abfab90]

@@lill8537 I guess my confusion was that Shauna made it seem like if a French athlete didn't win here, then only one of the two front runners would be guaranteed next year. But I guess she just meant it would be harder for two to qualify.

[@joeylaptop9909]

Where can I watch the panamerican comp in santiago?

[@dakiblabla]

It's on youtube as well. Chanel is Panam Sports.

[@wake_flick4176]

Is there any video of the beta for the top on boulder number 4?

[@wabdih]

I feel that the previous members of the podium should auto qualify to the olympics given that they are active in the year leading up to it. Maybe give them some minimum requirements for qualifying like top 3 at 2 world cup events in the year prior. Made that up off the top of my head but you get the point

[@alexrahali5279]

Are there further options to be qualified for the olympics?

[@RaveMasterr]

@@alexrahali5279I think there's still the Olympic Qualifier Series on Mar-Jun 2024. That's the last chance to get a ticket.

[@alexrahali5279]

@@RaveMasterr thx mate

[@milksushi6640]

Why did Sam end up in front of adam even though they were tied in points and adam shouldve been ahead on countback? Anyways, gotta be happy for toby lol he's just on another level of strength and endurance. Toby vs Sorato really resembling Jakob vs Adam in terms of extreme strength vs who tf knows how they're so good. As for Adam, honestly probably good for him to have to compete in OQS - obviously he's extremely experienced already but I feel like he just needs to get back into a relaxed competition mindset and this will be good practice for that.

[@SFrank-wk1os]

Bad camera😢 cant see their feeds

[@verg4469_]

what a fukn beast

[@brucenowmen6955]

What gym grade is the lead route? Like 5.15+???

[@oootandaboot9431]

Good on you Toby

[@aleju]

2:36:28 Yanninck drops his glasses :S

[@Mike-oz4cv]

Why is Yannick Flohe not at least using sports glasses which hug the face more tightly?

[@AbiSaysThings]

bc he wouldn't look as pretty

[@jonathanrossddsmhs1271]

Congratulations Toby! 🥇

[@LetsChat]

War Toby! Also, I quite like the scoring system.

[@artemkondratyev2805]

boulder 3 is a giveaway and makes the competition unbalanced in favour of lead specialist. These things need to be admitted and corrected in the future. The Matt’s commentary makes everything sound very positive, but there are negatives, and it’s ok as long as we are all open and transparent about it

[@theafloreani9893]

I dont think there are commentators out there as chill and funny as the Climbing ones😂

[@jean-bobcharlemagne5133]

Thank you for the commenting 😊

[@WonderWhatHappened]

I love the format BUT I feel that Bouldering doesn't carry enough weight in the overall score. I'm probably in a minority but I like the routes that were set. It was challenging for the most part.

[@FlatOutFE]

Half isn't enough?

[@oladapoawoniyi37]

Unfortunately, combining these events will never result in a perfect system. What they've got here seems as good as it can get and significantly better than multiplying rankings

[@CJski]

Just depends which discipline is set harder. This format relies too much on the route setters. It’d be better if the scores were rescaled such that the top score in each discipline was 100. That way route setting is less of a factor and it doesn’t give boulder or lead specialists an advantage if one is particularly hard or soft.

[@BoZen64]

♥♥♥♥

[@G.Giorgio]

Wait these Events are not behind a paywall anymore?

[@Font4gion]

1:03:56 - 20 fucking points

[@kopite5156]

can we do only one climb at a time? :(

[@ig2d]

Doesn't Alberto qualify as olympic champion?

[@xxxxxnzjsgshbwh]

matt and shauna as commentators are as good as it gets

[@purity9761]

토비 완승!!

[@olesyaluk443]

When can we watch Women's Finals?

[@tomasrubioelia6912]

2:36:30 yannic lost his glasses

[@marzoval9551]

43:15. look at that forearm size.