Mercedes Benz ML320 CDI Turbo actuator fault code

[@richardedwards7780]

Hi Tim, thanks so much for this video!! I had a mass airflow sensor issue (needed cleaning in the end) but at the same time I had this fault code. Removed it no problem. It was easy to get the turbo shield off. Took 3 mins. Would recommend doing it. This thing is clearly not built to last. On opening, I saw it had been repaired before, badly. Re-soldered it and it works fine. When I have more time I'll take it off again and solder all the connections. If you're ever in north Italy I owe you a couple of beers!

[@alexjoseph9157]

Thanks for a great how to video!! I had erratic turbo drop out. Popped off the cover as you showed, and sure enough one of the stainless wires was loose. The meter toned out, but it was actually a partial connection. the pads are covered in a varnish like paint that has to be fully removed before you can solder, I had to go with a very hot soldering iron to get the thing to solder. Could not get the bottom clip back on, but I figure 5 clamps will do. Went for a test spin and voila, full turbo, no juterring and no limps.

[@MostExpensive10]

Top class fix m8, fiddly bit of soldering but car is now a weapon. cheers

[@ILoveProjects]

Saved time and money. Not exactly my case (broken contact wires), but symptoms description helped to identify the cause of the problem - turbo actuator. In my case it was gears mechanical damage. Thank you.

[@jordonbeaven]

Thank you sir! I had this exact problem, and a little soldering was all it took. Back to full power!

[@Tooxcade]

Thanks man, I lost totally the boost of power yesterday, watched this video today and fix it in 30min. My ML280 is now like a rocket. CHEERS

[@colinsmith3050]

Brilliant -many thanks - exactly the fault on mine. The garage quoted £1200 for a non merc replacement turbo as they wont' just replace the actuator. Before soldering the contact must be scraped clean to shiny metal with the tip of a sharp blade. I left off the bottom bracket. Best to put something under the unit when removing and replacing the clips as you can spend more time fishing them out of the engine than it takes to do the fix.

[@k4is3r1984]

thank you very much... i had already an other actuator with soldered contacts... but they were faulty... cleaned and soldered again... it works fine again just tested accel. until 200 km/h on autobahn without boost problems kind regards from germany Chrysler 300C 3.0 CRD also OM642 engine

[@colinaglae2605]

Thank you Tim, most grateful for the information regarding the Turbo actuator. Soldering the broken wire was a brilliant diagnoses & fix.

[@TheDAKARM]

Excellent info!! Very much appreciated. Subscribed

[@lo0ops]

Thanks man this helped me out today.

[@ana-wg9qi]

Thanks so much for the video!👌👌👌

[@leodavis7524]

I had the same problem Sent my actuator to a company in Canada, they sent it back repaired, my 320 has been great since ..😁

[@mariusbaculescu1101]

You my hero thanks for the video.i fix my cls320.nice and easy

[@chrisstephens6194]

Did my clk320cdi but access was easier so I removed the unit. Gears and motor were wom too. Great fix as Mercedes won't do it ( new turbo big money)

[@robertmillward4229]

i owe you a beer mate

[@marioalmeida1285]

Muito bom!!

[@jonaseid4464]

Very nice and clear 👌 that's was cool ..

[@jalaluddin5287]

I've recently had mine done by my local mechanic, its all true and now drives like its actually moving and pulls real hard.

[@seydoubaba3313]

Good job Thanks

[@ZenGlyphs360]

Hello, thanks for the video. What kind of diagnostic device are you using?

[@martinriley2196]

My 2008 320CDI had the same problem and wire was off just as you showed

[@jasoncruz3237]

Great video do you think will be the same on 2018 e220

[@donalddesmondduck9443]

Very informative, I have 2006 grand Cherokee crd and I'm having trouble locating the the Map sensor,please help.

[@davidgarner3275]

Stupid question, but did your turbo not come on at all or was it simply not coming on at the proper time?

[@angrycatowner]

How can you test out this little black box?

[@BiffMartin]

what is the part number of that little black box?

[@ionutstanila7858]

Hello sir! If you are kind, p2526 fault code (Vacuum Reservoir Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance,) what should i do? Check the circuit from the acctuator, or maybe change the whole piece?

[@freenergyterminator]

Seen several videos where variable geometry is called waste gaste, what is that ?

[@Turbodatshit09]

mine occasionally makes no boost going up hill but no codes... is this an actuator problem?

[@mmndimitrov]

Hi Tim I have a problem with my w211 e270 cdi the fail code is P2348. Is this problem from actuator?what do you thing ?

[@dereksaenz1439]

This might be a dumb question but can a 400se be turbo???

[@garygaribyan4364]

Hi, I have a diesel ml350, mine goes into limp mode in a few miles, I am thinking this is it, I took the cover of the turbo actuator and not sure if yours did but mine smells like burnt? The 2 wires you showed...mine aren't detached, was yours detached or just loose? Mine feels loose but i was thinking its because its a thin wire....let me know your thoughts please. Also thanks for the video!

[@rotatingglasssafe]

Hey Gary. it's more than likely the swirl motor rather than your actuator. do the resistor mod in your swirl motor to stop your car going into limp mode permanently. if your getting no boost after this mod then theres probably a mechanical issue with your actuator. the mechanism which moves the arm is probably jammed.you have to remove the whole actuator and disassemble it unjam it.clean it all up and put it back together. if your handy enough it shouldnt be a big task. hope this helps you in some way

[@mikefranky]

I've comes across these co on line where you can send your old unit for refurb is it possible to only send the part that you have taken off? Or do you have to send complete actuator?

[@timthev8man]

Just the removable part is all that needs to be repaired.

[@mhamedelhayouni4449]

Hi I need to remove turbo charger on GL 320 2009? There are 2 screws far behind manifold and they are hard to come off can someone advise? Thank you

[@TheScoobypowa]

Hello. Did your actuator move or it start to give u problems like limp mode or P0046 obd code ? I have a simillar problem, my actuator moves, but it seems that it has some play on it.

[@timthev8man]

The actuator wasn't moving and it was in limp mode.

[@TheScoobypowa]

thank you my was making the same error and shymptoms . the turbo geometry was damaged by the exhausts manifold... it seems that is a problem in this engines. the manifolds starts to break off

[@88vicana]

did you fix your issue after soldering that wire?

[@timthev8man]

Yes it did. It was very hard to solder due to the wire being stainless steel. But yes it fixed the problem and is a common fault

[@88vicana]

Can I ask how did you solder that wire providing it is stainless steel as you mention. Thank you

[@iainchapman]

@@88vicana I found it impossible to solder the original stainless steel wires. It might be possible with the correct flux and solder. Instead I pulled them off, and used a file to take the two small square/rectangular surfaces back to the layer of copper underneath. Then soldered a bit of (much thicker, household mains) copper wire to make the connection. Works fine so far. Does anyone know of a reason why this will fail over time? No idea why they used stainless steel. [W221 S320CDI 2006 UK]. +Thanks for the video Tim; extremely helpful.

[@partymanau]

Well done, thanx mate. Love my Benz but the electrics are worse than Italian electrics.

[@shoppingdogessobh]

Fusível ?

[@fixingproblems3183]

I am getting P0299 code, I checked no leaks in the system. Any ideas ?

[@aeroxpolini]

Did you Found your Problem? Havr the same P0299

[@fkmking]

aeroxpolini yes I did. It wasn’t the boost pressure actuator for me. There is a sensor near the EGR. Just had to remove and clean with brush/carb cleaner. No more error code after that.

[@juliandizy]

@@fkmking Hi, I too have the P0299 code and nothing else. It is intermittent and when the car works it works fine. I have logged sensors with TorquePro and I do have a pretty high EGR % error at times, so I could have the same issue as you: a dirty sensor. Would you be so kind to show me where that sensor is located? Thank you very much indeed.

[@tinkajanson6221]

Mine had the same code and problem

[@mikemike-ym9pb]

Is it just that or the plastic gear drive teeth inside the black box that sheer off and can’t move the position we arm???

[@shifty2755]

That only usually happens when your vanes are stuck with soot.

[@alberttekanokashe2305]

I have ML 320CDI and it doesn't have a power I took it to the mechanic but he reckons it's because of airflow meter sensor that is faulty

[@alberttekanokashe2305]

Could this be true?

[@jalaluddin5287]

This process is a temprary fix, u can do it a few times over & over eventually it will slowly kill the turbo & cause the vanes to holt. Best to buy a reconditioned turbo unit from internet & get a local mechanic to fit it. & whilst your at it buy an swirl flap emulator from ebay and connect on the connector & your good to go for years to come 😁 Note: all actuators come calibrated with the indivisual turbo so and tampering will eventually lead to complete turbo & vanes Failure.