Mercruiser Alpha Shift cable adjustment

[@HughGenvaney]

I’ve come to this video multiple times over the years as needed and when my memory fails me. So thank you for making it and leaving it up

[@michael586]

11 year old video and still the best one out there. Nice job and thanks much!

[@jasonbabcock9046]

Thanks! Read the shop manual for the shift cable adjustment a couple of times and it read as extremely complicated. Your video and explanation on the other hand was clear and easy to follow. I brought the laptop onto the boat and did the whole job in about 10 minutes with your help and the drive shifts like a charm.

[@jamesricketts6186]

Excellent description thank you. After 15 years my 1982 260 shifts great.

[@jeffshoemaker3431]

Chris.. wonderful job as always!, explaining what you are doing and why...so well done compared to others who say, "move this, to there"...never explaining what they are talking about,, you always explain what you are doing and why,, well done!

[@BrookeInlow2006]

This video helped me solve my shifting problems! Thanks a million- Im going to be on the lake this weekend!!’n

[@scioguy]

Thank you so much for this! and the alignment video too. I've been restoring a 2850 bayliner bounty with twin 470's for the last two years and getting to the point of re-installing engines. Finding your video was like finding lost money in the washing machine.

[@dennissytsma3561]

I adjust my boat by trial and error with boat on the water. This video is outstanding and textbook way to adjust with the boat in the shop. I highly recommend final adjustment be done with boat in the water for optimum results, The service manual for the alpha one drive says the same under the caption "in water tests". Most professional marine shops do not bother with the in water tests.

[@chrissteeves8651]

Thank you ! This was perfect ! Mine was making a noise as when in neutral and would die when put into forward. I got up on the boat and followed along with you and 10 minutes later problem solved !! Great video and explanation!

[@MaxwellSmart6425]

This is the best video I have found for adjusting these cables, only thing I have to add, is if they have factory crimped the brass adjusting screw on the shift cable barely drill right down on the Crip temples. Can you contact the actual cable, spray, a little WD-40, and with a little effort you will be able to adjust the shift cable

[@jeralddegraw6069]

This Bloke Was just Who I needed to get the job done ! Not only that, He's an Aussie - I lived in Many locations, Down-Under, and enjoyed My Stay, VERY much ! :-)

[@vincentclark8031]

You know I took a new boat out I bought from some people that didn't tell me it was a piece of junk and you've helped me a lot with this so thank you

[@rick51460]

Followed your process and got my boat shifting smoothly again. Thank you!

[@josepeixoto3384]

I have read the factory service bulletin on this,and I can tell everyone you are very knowledgeable and very helpful; thank you

[@bobgerhold8]

Outstanding explanation been pondering this adjustment for longer than I Care to admit. Followed the video and restored function first try. Thanks for the video.

[@kevinkonschuh5984]

Thanks for the video Chris. Very helpful. You don't mention the spring loaded shift assist mechanism. Is it necessary to have it installed? It seems to place a lot of pressure on the assembly.

[@dimash244]

Why didnt i see this video 12 years ago! Thank you from all of us in 2024!

[@rodmauldin]

Hi thanks for the easy to follow instruction. My shift plate is a 1973 model however the outdrive was replaced in the mid 80's with a later model outdrive. I really didn't know which measurement to go with so I went with the 5 7/8" center to center shift cable mounting position and got it right. I assume the shift plate age would therefore be the determining factor. Anyways, was able to make the proper gear engagement adjustment on land. However once I went for a test cruise, I had to adjust the rear anchor pen negatively because I was slipping out of forward drive under a load. Once I moved the rear anchor pin back about and 1/8", it worked perfectly. Great video.

[@lloydspooner]

Your instructions were spot on. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!

[@gearoid6669]

Great video clear concise and straight to the point.

[@bradleystevenson6847]

Mate watched the others and this is the one that worked for us Thankyou🎉

[@richardcarr8264]

Best video! This is exactly what we needed.

[@patricktucker9950]

On remote cable if I have more that 3 1/8 inch is the cable bad? And need replacing or can I adjust it out? I have 3 1/4 inch

[@nathanmcolton]

@@patricktucker9950 How does it shift with the extra 1/8 inch of play? If it seems to work okay, I'd leave it.

[@austinberger4670]

Great video, I just bought a 1989 Baja 190 sport and only had 300 hours on it. The boat is mint but the only issue was it not shifting all the way into gear. This will help so much and makes me at ease just to know its an adjustment issue.

[@natisandronicus]

All these videos are very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do these.

[@area51247]

adjusted 1974 shift cable to your 5 7/8, works perfect now. Thank you

[@tracybeasley440]

Did you have to put it in neutral in the beginning or full reverse?

[@nedrow0]

Very helpful BUT 2 things to clarify: 1)The throttle needs to be in wide open forward in the beginning and wide open reverse at the end? 2) when he adjusts the barrel, he says one direction and goes the other. Do as he does, not as he says? Edit: What worked for me was, throttle wide open forward and reverse and at the end, the barrel gets adjusted away from the cable end. It worked for me anyway.

[@petecoolidge]

Great video and instructions! Thank you for creating and publishing!

[@billhoagland234]

Great video, very helpful and more detailed then my Merc shop manuals. Thanks

[@DocOnTheRun]

Excellent crystal clear explanation!

[@aaronknott7125]

Very informative! Thank you for taking the time to make this video!

[@ghostnumber717]

I really appreciate these specs.. My sea ray has an MR1 outdrive and the neutral cutoff switch has been a real problem ..

[@libertyfinder4889]

are the cables worn? how old are they.

[@ghostnumber717]

@@libertyfinder4889 pretty old

[@jtettes]

I figured as much. I'm not quit sure what it would be though. I suppose I can try and check the play clearances as you mentioned in your video or just do another adjustment? Thatnks again for all the info and the quick responses, it's very much appreciated!!

[@chrisaydee]

Loved the video. Very well done and super easy to understand. I have one question. When you adjusted the barrel nut you pointed "away from the cable" but screwed toward the cable. Not sure which to do.

[@libertyfinder4889]

yep, boat is running like it probably never did before

[@jamesranger6283]

Thanks for the vid. Fixed all my problems.

[@loumerino]

Thank you for your quick response! The control box looked original from a 2004 Maxum 1800mx. Thank you in advance.

[@johnhiltz4143]

Thank you so much, for sharing this very helpful information. Cheers.

[@chrisa660]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johnhiltz4143]

@@chrisa660 Im knew to Inboard out boards , and a poor fellow, so when someone shares info to help others it's a blessing so again thanks so very much ...God bless.

[@antonwigge8903]

Thanks for a great video, really informative and it help me gather the courage to go at adjusting the shift cable on my Merc 5.0 220hp -05 with Alpha 1 gen 2 stern drive. I was having issues getting the boat into gear, bort forward and reverse which is why I wanted to try adjusting the cable. Whenever I put the remote forward or back to put it into gear (which is an original Morse remote in my CC Lancer 19' by the way), I was hearing a loud clicking/knocking noise and then the boat would slam into gear. Not very smooth and it made it hard to operate in tight spaces etc. Said and done, I adjusted the lower shift cable like you describe in the video (6" etc.) But I forgot to adjust the upper remote cable. I'm now having the following issues and I don't know if they might be solved by adjusting the upper remote cable or if I'm having some other issues: Reverse goes smoother into gear but I'm still hearing the knocking/clicking sound before the gear kicks in. Reverse also requires less movement in the remote shifter than before the adjustment Forward now requires far more movement in the remote shifter and I'm having the same kind of loud clicking/knocking sound before it slams into gear. Do you think there could be any issues using my Morse controller or should I adjust the remote cable in the way you advise anyway? I guess my main concern is the knocking/clicking, it feels like the cogs are engaging slightly/slipping before they actually engage and the gear slams into place. Sorry for the long post but could really use your input here! Thanks! Anton

[@fizzybillylah3816]

I know this is old but did you resolve it? How?

[@chrisa660]

The switch should not activate when going from neutral to FORWARD or REVERSE, only when coming OUT of gear, and only when there is load on the propeller, so not on the flushers either.

[@drmarkhunter]

Chris. Thank you. This is outstanding. What do you mean with your comment "No, you should not have the interrupt switch activate when running on the hose?" I am trying to adjust my cable, as shifting is killing the engine completely, when shifting into forward and into reverse. Thanks again for this effort.

[@chrisa660]

If the switch trips when there is no load on the propeller, then the lower shift cable is the reason...

[@clearmore3024]

Great instructional video. Problem solved. Thx!

[@warrickvr]

Hi Chris. What can I check or adjust if my engine stalls when shifting back into neutral from forward or reverse. It happens more when the engine is hot. The motor has 950 hours on and boat is 96 Regal 5.7 Merc Cruiser

[@stevefewtrell1453]

Hi Warrick, The problem you have described has been the same problem that I have experienced on and off over the past two years with my Alpha 1 Stern drive second generation on a 3 L mercruiser inboard. The engine cuts out because the ignition interrupt switch activates, as it should, on the initial gear shift into forward or reverse, but it does not come back to the neutral position before the engine stops. What should happen is the interrupt switch activates momentarily to kill the motor to allow the gear shift without any torque, so it does not grind going into gear, and coming out of gear, it needs the engine killed momentarily to allow it to fall into neutral, otherwise it says in gear. The most common cause for this problem is too much friction in the stern drive cable, so the return to centre spring on the interrupt cam plate does not have the force to move the cable back to the neutral position. The friction can be caused by a worn or damaged or poorly lubricated stern drive cable or binding of the cable through the penetrations into the gearbox. I have had limited success fixing the problem by replacing the stern drive cable and seals, which cured the problem for about 6 months before it returned, intermittently when the motor was hot. On my latest service which included taking the leg off for an oil change and impeller change, I asked the mechanic if he could diagnose and fux the problem. He double checkef if the stern drive cable linkage was at all sticky or there were any problems that could be causing the shift interrupt sticking problem. He reported that there were not, and he fitted a new linkage plate as he reported that this had cured the problem with some of his other clients. He adjusted everything up to specification and I had about 1 hours worth of trouble free gear shifting before the problem returned. The problem now is that every time it shifts into forward the engine will die. Reverse shifting is not a problem. To keep us out on the water, I have had my wife or one of the children hold the interrupt switch cam plate in the neutral position whilst I put the boat into forward. This is far from ideal, but otherwise the boat won't go. I have now added an additional plate onto the gear shift plate to allow me to mount a tension spring that assists the interrupt switch return to neutral on forward selection. I will water test this tomorrow and hopefully it works. If it works, I will post a video on KZbin about what I did, so others can copy it. The mercruiser Alpha 1 leg gear shift design with the manual shift interrupt switch arrangement that relies on the spring force of the interrupt cam plate to counteract the gearbox and shift cable is not a robust design at all. As soon as any friction builds up in the stern leg to control plate linkage is causes problems. This design problem is the main reason that I am actually going to sell my boat, and probably never buy another boat with a stern drive again. I find it hard to believe that a reputable company like MerCruiser manufacturered such a temperamental design, that could leave a non-technical person stranded at sea. I hope you manage to solve you boat's gear shifting problem.

[@sedwds11]

Thanks! Your video was very helpful.

[@RobertOates-q8g]

Thanks so much for the great video. Having gone through it step by step, I'm still having a problem getting into reverse. After some diagnosis, Im finding that the shifting cable behavior is different in Fwd & Rev. Pushing the shift cable all the way back, the gears engage and the prop stops turning. However, pulling it fwd towards reverse gear, at no point does the gears seem to engage, making the rest of the adjustment mute. Any suggestions?

[@berniemccaffery2295]

Hi Chris Great explanation of adjusting the cables. I’ve got a problem that I can’t seem to correct. Boat goes into forward and neutral fine but when I go towards reverse the interrupt switch activities shuttling off the engine. Using your information My remote cable is an inch shorter than the 3.5” you reference. Any suggestions as to what I should be doing to fix this This is a 30 year old boat with 350 total hours on it

[@judofab]

Hi, where you able to fix it? I'm having the same issue...

[@chrisa660]

Sounds like you might have crud and/or salt build-up in the back of the shift slide cavity (in the bell-housing). That's most likely due to a leaking upper shift shaft seal and bushing. You need to remove the drive and check those things out...

[@robelpesao]

You're a lifesaver. Thanks.

[@kevceckim]

Thanks, great video !!! When I set the cable to 6" and set it back on shift plate and finish maikng my adjustments, I decided to measure it again while it is on the shift plate and i got in between 6 1/4 - 6 1/2 !! Is that normal ?

[@stevenulbrich4969]

Just installed new heads, and I did not put the boat in forward when I took shift cables off the riser plate. I'm sure the cables were moved and jostled as I did the replacement in the bilge. After the rest of the engine was buttoned back up, I reinstalled and re-set cables to your specs. When testing, prop didn't go into gear. Got under the drive and noticed the dog/shift shoe was pointed at about 11:55 to port side when I did put the control to forward. I was able to push the dog/shift shoe to 12 O'clock with a small rod. The prop locked counter clockwise. I then made the adjustments to your spec. Started engine, put it in forward then N then Reverse a few times, and then tried it again a few times. On the 3rd of 4th try it stopped engaging in forward. Do I need to reset the upper cable more? Or do I drop the lower unit on the outdrive just enough to reset the dog/shift shoe connection to 12:00 O'clock while the control is in forward and then do the cable adjustments. These cable were replaced 2 seasons ago. The engine is 2010 Merc. Vortec 5.7 350 - Thanks for the video. I did use this video last season on my port side engine. It took 2 days of me swearing up a storm before I realized that, that particular outdrive was opposite rotation, and I had to do everything in reverse :) To be clear the engine I am asking about is normal rotation. Thank you.

[@chrisa660]

My pleasure...

[@pcb6162]

Great Video, Thank You! ❤🎉

[@normteskey2829]

How are there 75 dislikes, his explanation is spot on.

[@chrisa660]

I was sort of wondering that too. :-) (maybe other youtubers who are losing views to my video???)

[@alfakrab6134]

Watched this 100x... GREAT VIDEO. Would there be a slim chance that I'm one tooth off my outdrive shift shaft alignment?.. I can't get this fkr to grab reverse to save my life. EVEN AJUSTING SLOT ALL THE WAY!!! PLEASE HELP!

[@ramseyblohm995]

Going to try this tomorrow. Mine it’s very difficult to get into neutral. Have to rock forward reverse to get neutral will shift cable adjustment do this?

[@rowlex929]

I've followed the video, my measurements were the same as yours. So I followed your instructions exactly. On the water if I shift fast and accel (to pull a wakeboarder out) I will get a clunk into gear and then a second later another clunk. If I shift quickly but keep near idle I do not get the second clunk. Can the black throttle adjustment thing be adjusted further then 4 turns? My reverse shift slams into gear hard and shakes the whole boat. Suggestion? THANK YOU!!

[@ericparry7032]

Check your idle speed too. If too high you can get that hard ckunk

[@midrangesupport]

when you spin the barrel four turns "away from the cable" you said. Is this increasing the distance between the two pins or decreasing the short distance? I want to make sure I'm doing this right, thanks.

[@bartoers7735]

Hallo, are the measurements ( 6 inch etc) also for a shift cable with a 3.0L Alpha One Gen 2 of 1996? My shift adjustment is horizontal en not vertical like yours. What if the cable is longer? Thank you very much .. cheers Bart

[@libertyfinder4889]

i have the same thing you have, all the same . horizontal or vertical.

[@jennyfitzjarrell6763]

Great video, it took me ten minutes to complete the adjustment thanks to you!... I now get great gear change in forward and reverse. However, in order to get the prop to go into reverse I had to move the drive shaft anchor to about a 1/4" from the top of the slot. This did not engage the cut-off switch so I figure this is fine but, shouldn't there be a point when it do engage the cut-off switch? If it never engages, what does that mean?

[@rlilley1775]

having the same issue in reverse. i didn't try to adjust the drive shaft remote anchor that far up to engage in reverse. i guess i will try that, but did you come up with any best adjustments to solve issues for smooth operation? thanks

[@jerryhawley1778]

When I shift to forward, I can't get back into neutral and the kill switch is engaging killing the engine, this only happens in forward not reverse. Is this resulting from a bad cable or kill switch? TIA. Great video.

[@libertyfinder4889]

yes

[@aaronhudson1327]

Good afternoon. I was hoping you could help as well. 1986 mercruiser alpha one. Boat shifts into reverse and prop spins fine. Shift into forward. Prop locks like normal but doesn’t spin with throttle pushed forward. We do here something clinking around but we are thrown off since reverse works fine

[@nigelhulse1538]

hi did you sort out the problem , mine does exactly the same ?

[@flip2480]

Thank you worked like a charm

[@gregpatey6355]

Concerning the "final adjustment"... you say to "adjust barrel 4 turns away from the cable", and indicate with a sweep of your hand that it should move towards the end of the cable, YET it was rotated so that it would go onto the cable further.... can you clarify what direction it needs to move in the final adjustment?.... thanks

[@chrisa660]

The 'sweep of the hand' is to indicate that he barrel is to be turn away from the end (that the hand is 'sweeping' to)... Voice over also says 'turn the barrel away for the end of the cable'... Hope that's clear enough for you.

[@josepeixoto3384]

​@@chrisa660 1982 Sea Ray seville ex--3.0 , now converted to Iveco 2.5 Td intercooled,180 hp; Remote throw 3 1/8th, lower cable at 3 inches; Why those 4 turns,? if i do those 4 turns, the throw becomes longer, and then REVERSE becomes a bit forceful, ant it will engage the microswitch and stay engaged; on the trailer; If i do not do the 4 turns,then it stays centered,FW and Rev., prop locks ,Fw and Rev, and it is free on neutral. why the 4 turns?

[@OrcUrias]

Awesome video Thanks!!!

[@joeyrizk3275]

Hi Chrisa, Can you tell me what position that throttle needs to be in when you remove the lower shift cable or it if matters. I see you push the shaft in to measure the distance - along with moving the prop and scotching it when it bottoms out counter clockwise -( which puts it in forward) and when you are done measuring your gaps you re-attach the shaft to the leg. My question is when we are hooking everything back up what position is the throttle lever in when reattaching the cable? I assume its in forward position but maybe I am wrong or maybe that does not matter. My boat runs great in neutral and forward but when I engage reverse it wants to bog down. I assume I have the wrong tension set on the reverse and interrupter switch as if I by pass the interrupter switch the boat runs fine in reverse. In case you needed to know this is a 1987 Alpha One Gen Two 4.3LX thunderbolt. Hopefully you can understand what I am saying and I certainly appreciate you doing this for all of us as we don't have very many reputable boat mechanics in my area and the ones we do your looking at 3 months out.

[@chrisa660]

Once you have the 6" measurement for the lower shaft cable, with the throttle lever still in forward, you put the lower shift cable in, and with it still in forward, you adjust the remote cable so it's in the correct position, then back off the barrel on the remote cable 4 turns. All while the throttle lever is in forward. If shifting into reverse is tripping the switch, you have dirt in the shift slide cavity in the bell-housing, or inside the slide itself, or the anchor stud on the shift plate lever in too high. If all those are correct, replace the cable.

[@joeyrizk3275]

@@chrisa660 You are the best sir !!!

[@chrisa660]

No. That indicates either a sticky cable (replace it), crud in the shift slide cavity in the drive (remove the drive and clean it out) or the stud is in too high a position (move it down).

[@zackcash7277]

I'm having a problem finding nuetral with the shift lever. you have to jerk from forward to reverse and feather it in the nuetral position to get it to actually go in nuetral. will this help or do you think I may have another problem. note this throttle quadrant is the second one and the same problem arises.

[@tyuip4657]

In the water running, the ONLY adjustment should be to the brass barrel on the shift cable.

[@jtettes]

Clunk is normal...good news!! And of course it would be as simple as that to find out the rotation. Nice!

[@jtettes]

Thanks again for the info!! Well, I spent a few hours today trying to adjust the shift cable. The adjustment now is the best I've had so far. After the four turns you make with the brass barrel, and then hook everything back up. The manual says to move the remote to the opposite (if your in forward, move into reverse) then move the prop clockwise and check the cut-out switch, which should still be centered. Mine is just off center. Will that cause me problems? Thanks

[@drizler]

Here’s a thought. If you’re messing around with the breather off STUFF A RAG IN THE CARB. That way anything tint you drop doesn’t cause you 🤦🏼‍♂️grief later on.........shit does happen .

[@garrettpeterson9816]

My engine stalls as soon as shifted to reverse. I have made no adjustments yet, and it used to work just fine. No reverse at all, instant kill when engaged. Can I fix it by using this adjustment technique?

[@vettonator]

I had same problem and this fixed it for me. You gotta pay attention and do it just right or you'll still have problems..

[@djnemesis82pluss1877]

After an engine replacement I’ve had a lot of issue with this interrupter switch. I’ve tried making some adjustments it seemed better. Some days it won’t ever die and some days it dies going into reverse. Now it’s dying going from forward to neutral a lot. Lower cable has been replaced and if I recall I had my 6” on lower cable right. Boats a 96 which way should I adjust the barrel when dying from forward to neutral ?

[@deadparrothead3175]

Hey, did you happen to find out which way to adjust the barrel when it's dying from forward to neutral?

[@djnemesis82pluss1877]

@@deadparrothead3175 I probably did but don’t recall. Replaced the transum assembly and it’s been perfect. My shift cable was ran wrong

[@waynemurray7847]

Great vid .... my 2003 alpha one with 5.7 L has problems where it will shift into reverse but after the initial shift to reverse when I advance the throttle in reverse the engine dies (it works fine in forward and this condition only happens in reverse).... Could this be a cable (either one) is out of adjustment or does this point to other problems? Thanks Wayne Vancouver bc

[@8thovertrucking]

I just got a 1994 bayliner ciera 2655. Goes into forward beautifully. However when going into reverse i get a grinding noise then it will go into reverse. Just a reverse cable adjustment? And does this video reference that adjustment on the end?

[@jills.6579]

Great video! Do you have a one for adjusting the shift cables for a Mercruiser Bravo engine or is it the same?

[@frog6202]

what's the difference of its in water or not when adjusting?

[@billskrib917]

Thanks for your video!

[@Kr24108]

Best video man thank you

[@chrisa660]

Glad you liked it!

[@mattsaxton8500]

Can you adjust this while the outdrive is up/on trailer? Or do you need to lower it?

[@rocketstutorials]

Perfect!!! Thank you

[@johnnowlin2808]

Set to netural did 6in.then put in forward for top linkage to where it fit rite on.i had forward no rev.

[@Condor1970]

If I am adjusting an existing cable, I know I need to measure the proper lengths of the cable movement. However, wouldn't the barrel on the remote control cable already be set 4 turns back? Or should I adjust it to fit perfectly first, then turn it back 4 turns for tension I assume?

[@Fndeadlegs]

I have an 87 alpha one 8v and I'm having trouble getting it into forward. I have to be trailer trim and trim all the way down. If it doesn't work and I have to put it in neutral and try to put it back in drive and then trailer trim and trim all the way down again. It acts like I'm moving it from the top but I have never moved the lower unit from the first attempt to put into forward.

[@dgthrg]

Thanks for the video. I had my cable replaced by someone and it hits the cutoff switch when going from neutral to reverse but not when going fro neutral to forward. No motor shutoff or hesitation from the seitch. My question is, "is the motor supposed to hesitate when going from neutral into forward? Mine doesn't . What do I need to do? Thanks, Brad

[@HerbZilla]

I put my cable in and now whenever im in reverse gear my neutral cuttoff switch is always activated so the engine dies completely when shifting into reverse gear. Works perfectly when shifting into forward gear and back to neutral. Although the cuttoff switch does not activate when going from forward to neutral or from neutral to forward. Really dont know what to do anymore.

[@wyoprospector]

What if you have 3 1/2 " on the remote cable? You didn't say anything about that. I just installed a brand new cable and I have 3.5 inches of travel.

[@djbaril78]

My cable that goes to the control looks different and seems unadjustable. It does not have the nut to spin 4 times. Not sure what to do know

[@TheKillingFloor69]

So what if the measurement is more than 3 and 1/8? Mine appears to be a little shy of three and a quarter inches?

[@gera2570]

THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH !!!

[@chrisa660]

I take it you're doing this adjustment with the boat on the trailer and the engine running on flushers. If that is the case, the switch interrupt (cut-out) switch should never activate. The system needs load on the prop to work. For an explanation of how the system works go to a forum called iBoats, then navigate to the Mercruiser repairs section. At the top of the list is a post called "Adults only". Click that and look at item #9... (I'm poster 'achris' BTW:-))

[@Buddy8]

chrisa660 my boat is in the yard I was doing some cleaning and it’s off and on stands I put it into reverse. Now it won’t go back into neutral. Tried manually turning over motor a little and spinning the prop jerking it both ways while trying to put in neutral to no avail. Any ideas?

[@chrisa660]

@@Buddy8 Sounds like the remote control cable is broke. (the inner core)

[@jtettes]

Great video!! Thanks. Question. When in forward gear...is it all the forward, full throttle? And the same for reverse?

[@jasonbradley5547]

Did you say the prop should be turned anti-clockwise?

[@Chris-hx3om]

Yes

[@kristinfleck9280]

Hey mine is Brandon, I have my shift cable at 6" and my control cable like you said, then I seen where you told somebody that the cut out switch won't work on a hose, iam heading up to the lake this weekend, if my cutout doesn't ingage what else can I do? Just wondering and thnks for the videos they were lots of help

[@John-nl7ls]

Turn the motor off for a second to get it out of gear then start it back up

[@adrianfox3653]

hi I have a SeaRay sundancer 290 1992 with 2 4.3 mercruiser engines and standard stern drive gear shift and throttle controls. Boat is in the water now, all working fine but throttle showing on gauge different RPM between both engines. For example throttle are in the same level forward or reverse but RPM is not the same -showinf port 1500 and starboard 3500. You upload clip above but can i do it when boat is in the water? And how do do it step by step ? I will be really great full for any help.Iam new owner for this boat. Also i put fuel 270 l and gauge showing this is 1/4 only in tank.not half.They said is 500l. Can be bigger tank inside?

[@chrisa660]

Clunk is normal. Stand behind the boat, looking at the prop. If turning the prop clockwise is forward, that's a RH prop. If turning the prop CCW is forward, that's a left hand prop.

[@tiotheberk]

What is the remote cable is not moving the 3”? How do you make it move more? Mine only goes 2 3/4” can’t figure out how to get to the 3”’s of travel.

[@Chris-hx3om]

Is it a Merc genuine remote control or an aftermarket (Morse, etc)?

[@tiotheberk]

@@Chris-hx3om yeah it’s the genuine one

[@Chris-hx3om]

@@tiotheberk May have a problem inside the remote, or the cable may be attached to the wrong anchor point. IIRC some of Merc's remotes had two anchor points. One for Mercs, the other for 'other'. Worth just pulling the remote off the mounting and checking.

[@tiotheberk]

@@Chris-hx3om awesome will do!! Thank u!!

[@vettonator]

Thank you sir for sharing this.

[@joeguerrier7975]

Got me right. Thanks.

[@weatehrman]

Hey Chris I think my upper cable needs replaced how bad is that? its an 89 celebrity by the way I just dont see the lower needing replaced its deffinately within specs i think the control box and upper cable pry wouldnt hurt along with the neutral switch and the actuator for the neutral switch both have been tampered with and as soon as I go to push it to full throttle adjusted the way you have shown here the switch activates like big time

[@loumerino]

BTW, it has a mercury mercruiser 3.0l engine. thanks again.

[@vettepiper6752]

I'm well aware that this is an old thread but if anyone is paying any attention: Mine is a 1986 year Alpha I Model 1 and the first thing done here is pull the slide out the 3 3/8". Mine will not move over 1/8". Also the mount is pinned. Measured 6 1/16" Should I try to loosen the mount so I can adjust on the threads? Shifter seems difficult to get into forward & sometimes the engine will die. (on water) Wondering if the cables are worn out or the Remote control has something going on. Don't have an hour meter but I'd say for it's age don't have an excessive amount of hours. Thanks!

[@Chris-hx3om]

6-1/16" is not a problem. If it's killing the engine then it can only be a sticky lower shift cable or the *adjustment* of the remote control cable. I'm not sure what you mean by 'the first thing done here is pull the slide out the 3 3/8". Mine will not move over 1/8".' I assume you're referring to the remote control cable. It's not the absolutely distance you should be measuring, it the difference between forward and reverse.

[@vettepiper6752]

@@Chris-hx3om When you pulled out on the cable checking for the 9/16" play - mine won't move. Also I believe you screwed the 4 turns opposite of what you said. I turned my barrel from factory setting 4 turns and it went on easily so I just backed it back where it was (4 turns) and left it there and really it was opposite to what you turned your barrel. Is there any kind of setting I need to know about on the control lever itself? I have owned this boat since new (1986). Something just isn't right with the way it's shifting. Thanks so much for your expertise.