Mercury 60hp Spark N Timing

[@barryfuller5896]

I just want to let you know your videos are awesome and easy to follow I have been fighting with a 98 60hp mercury for almost a year and found your videos on all the different test procedures and went through all the steps and found several wrong adjustments and it's running great now. Thanks again

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Thanks for watching and glad my videos helped you with your motor. I plan on doing more test this spring and summer on the 60hp merc and will share.

[@barryfuller5896]

Do you have any experience with deleting oil injection this engine had been deleted but they didn't use block plate they just blocked lines off and it still seems like it's running a little to rich its basically loading up after its been idling for more than a few minutes. I mix the oil 50:1 just wondering what your suggestion would be I'm hung in between purchasing oil injection system to reinstall or just buying the block off plate and leaning out my oil mixture some

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

No, I don't because I still use mine. I asked this question to Stu Dangar down in Australia and he said if you have oil injection keep it. He said it's a good system and to just make sure it's working properly. I have heard of folks deleting them and just making up the 50 to 1 mix to run it but have not looked into how to do it.

[@ongedre]

Hi mate. Message from Australia here (not too far from Dangar Stu). I was a mechanic back in the day and work on all my vehicles myself however I found myself working on a two stroke boat motor for the first time in my life recently. It is a 50 but basically the same as this one. Your vid saved me time and was easy to watch. I wish you well. Timed my motor up perfectly using your advice. I think I only ever picked up on one [slight] error in the previous vid which was the B and A when timing. You call it Above and Below which basically works out the same but most people know it as Before and After. Both work, just thought I should point it out. Great series. Always happy to subscribe to a good channel :)

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Thanks for watching and Subscribing. I started my channel after I retired from Boeing in 2016. I was a mechanic there for 37 years. Before I retired was the Team Leader for the 747 Landing Gear and Flap crew. I started watching KZbin on my lunch breaks at Boeing and decided then I wanted to start my own channel. Stu's channel was my favorite back then and learned allot but as he suggested to really know your motor to get a Service Manual for it. After going though it I wanted to share to help others with similar motors. It's really rewarding when folks like you have success by watching my videos👍

[@ongedre]

@TimsWorkshopTJY awesome. I've been into aviation my entire life :) my great grandfather was an initial financier of Qantas so it runs in the fam :) currently an aerial cinematographer and will be starting a yt channel myself soon :) I'll keep an eye out for your vids.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Tim here, here's a tip if you think you have a broken flywheel key. Get your timing light on your cranking speed timing Mark's that you put on when timing your motor. If the motor still runs good but the Mark's are way off your key may be broken?

[@leebatt7964]

I like that youre wearing a Dangar Marine shirt.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Love Stu, we became friends years ago when he first started on youtube and inspired me to start my channel. Just put a new impeller in my merc 60hp today. Video coming out soon

[@Barbaralynnmusic]

You and Dangar helped me to replace my water pump on my 2000 50 HP Mercury 2 stroke. Many thanks! Current problem is friend screwed up my perfectly running motor per cold start issues by messing with EVERYTHING. Arrrgh! He claims he set the timing but does have a timing light. Now spark plugs are fouled, carbs were spitting out gas,…..(I rebuilt the carbs, replaced the bearing carrier assembly per his other hack job, new water pump) He will not accept that his “adjustments” screwed up a perfectly running motor. I brought him my 50 gal container to use since he overheated it while using his muffs too.Is it possible that a misadjusted timing could damage the motor per the fouled plugs? He also insists that I do the Oil Injection Delete but at this point if it Ain’t broke…If he was not such a good bass player and over all good guy I would unfriend him. :-( I’m begging him to pay someone before he kills it completely.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Thanks Barbara, Stu is a friend of mine since he first started his channel. He inspired me to start mine in 2016. Which he still did videos but he's been traveling allot the last 2 years. We'll deserved. Glad we were able to help with your water pump. If your a subscriber to my channel you will see that I do more than marine motors. Right now doing on location videos on our trip on the Pacific Coast in Oregon and Washington State. If you are enjoy. Tim

[@charlesbirch497]

I looked for videos on how to do this on my motor. They were either confusing or unhelpful. Yours was the first I saw that made things click for me. I downloaded a manual that did in deed say to check the setting under load and at full throttle. Even though that may be more accurate, its not very practical or safe. I think your way is close enough and doable. I never thought to pull the arm and bungie cord it in place. I can't wait to try this again your way. Thanks

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

It works good. Just remember 2 strokes need the plugs cleaned when idling allot. They are meant to be run with the throttle rpm up off idle or they clog up. You will see on my videos to use my propane torch or a lighter to burn off the oil and put them back it. Keeps the motor firing on all cylinders. Fyi thanks for watching

[@2fat2furious1]

Hi Tim. I found this video so interesting even though I had no idea what you are talking about. I don't understand engines at all. But I can fix computers and laptops 😂. We just love listening to you explaining away

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Thanks Nikki for watching anyway. My next video maybe a bit more interesting for you guys. My camera tripod broke on one of the plastic leg attachments. I used my plastic welder today to fix it. Works great. I love how I can save plastic parts now without buying new ones. Also my first plastic welder video is one of my top videos now👍

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

I reread this comment you guys did awhile back and thought maybe this was G and not Nicki? Anyway sorry if I put a name on this. I think now I just say Nicki and G👍

[@SandmannOZ]

Hey Tim... I like the Dangar Marine shirt... I've been devouring Stu's videos since I got my first boat about 6 months ago. Anyhoo, thanks for the tutorials... I followed yours on rebuilding the fuel pump on my '99 40hp merc and it's like a new engine now... the 40 & 60 are almost identical. Was wondering about how you earthed out the spark plug leads when doing the timing in this video... that's just 3 wires going to earth, nothing special about it? What gauge wires did you use to plug into the spark plug leads?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Thanks for watching, got my Dangar shirt years ago when I started his channel. Watched Stu when he shared a shop with a friend. He started his channel at his home before that. As far as my ground wires just used some old RV 30amp 8 gauge wires and taped together. I put a large lug on the end to put under one of the starter bolts to ground it.

[@JacoKillian]

Hi Tim have a 40hp 4cylinder the timming window and the tpc is not near .do you have to take the flywheel of and adjust it with the 1ste piston out?thanx

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

The way it works with these motors is first if you want to work on one you need the service manual for your year and model. Read through it carefully and follow each proceedure your trying to achieve. On my motor the top cylinder is number one. When that cylinder is all the way up the marks on your flywheel should be close per the book. If they are way off on the flywheel it is possible the key way is broken and your flywheel is free and not in the correct location. If that is the problem pull the flywheel and replace the key. Your timing will be back to where it was before the key broke. I've had another subscriber contact me with this issue and he found that was exactly what was wrong. Hopefully this helps but buy the manual. Tim

[@keithdog3678]

Hey tim injoy your video has helped me out with a few things. I have one more ? How do you set that single screw on all 3 carburetors and how do I tell if it's set all 3 right thanks

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

I set it by the book which out 1 1/4 turns on all three. After that I took it into the marine shop to have it gone through. They put it on a dyno tank and ran it. When I asked them why I was having issues with it they said the plugs were fouled and they reset the carbs. I assume they adjusted the only screw on it. My service manual states only to set them like I did though which is for low speed idle for these two strokes. 4 strokes you adjust each carb with a vacuum gage till they all run even. There is no high speed adjustment just the jet that's in the float bowl if I remember correctly? I was thinking about checking carefully and record if each screw was moved by them from where I had it and by how much in or out. I'll let you know if they did

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Just pulled up my service manual to tell you what is says for carb adjustments. It states like I said first set all three at 1 1/4 turns out to start. Start engine and run for about 1 minute so it's warmed up. with the engine at idle speed in Forward gear turn the idle mixture screw in till the motor starts to bog down or misfire. back out 1/4 turn or more till the engine smooths out. do the same on each carb on the idle mixture screws. now I have tried this once a long time ago before I took this motor into the marine service folks and with the motor running it's kind of hard to tell if there is a change on each carb when doing this, but I think I was in neutral and not in forward gear. the motor may be more sensitive to the adjustment on each carb when doing this? try it and see if that helps it run better. remember to clean your spark plugs often before testing. 2 stroke motors spark plugs foul up quick when idling. These beasts are meant to run WOT. that's why when you are trolling to have a 4-stroke kicker. the plugs won't foul up.

[@keithdog3678]

Thanks so much I'll do that have a wonderful day

[@Dlezman_fishing]

if you primarily only run an outboard at low speed, does it matter what max throttle timing is? Also, when you are checking timing, do you need to have water flowing through the water pump?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Hi Doug, first of all a two stroke motor doesn't like being ran @ idle for very long due to the oil mix. The spark plugs will foul up. Two strokes are made to run at high RPM. When I get to where I want to slow troll I use my 4 stroke kicker motor which are made for running @ idle for long runs when fishing. For your second question if you are turning the prop even in neutral you need to run it with water on muffs or in a barrel. Running dry will damage your impeller. Water acts as a lubricant. I see some motors on muffs that the prop doesn't turn but mine does. Either way better be safe or you'll be taking the lower unit off to change it. Also when an impeller starts coming apart make sure all the rubber pieces are removed and check under the metal impeller plate too where the water is coming in from the water inlets.

[@Wrensspeedshop]

Do you happen to know the wiring schematics on the other side of the motor down towards the bottom? The boat I have had the motor rebuilt/overhauled about two years ago and one or two connections they left undone because it looks like there may have used to been a manual fuel mechanism down low which is no longer in use but I’m trying to confirm which wire goes to what on the passenger side of the motor. Thank you

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Hi Derek, First off is your motor the same as mine? 1996 merc 60hp 3 cylinder 2 stroke? All the wiring is on the starboard side on mine. I haven't looked yet but I believe there may be a wire going to the enrichment valve over there? Other than that just fuel lines and air

[@Wrensspeedshop]

@@TimsWorkshopTJY I’m reading up online and trying to get information and figured I would ask you first hand to get your thoughts. Could the connection between the motor and the tachometer on the dash cause the engine to run improperly, or if there was an issue with the tach Signal wire between the signal wire from the motor to the gauge? The reason I ask this question is because prior to putting the boat in the water and running it at my house I was double checking all the systems and of course I had water going to the outboard for cooling purposes, the engine ran flawlessly and would rev instantaneously. The motor had been rebuilt the year prior and tuned so I was not concerned about the engine mechanically being the issue because part of me getting it they had been put on the water once or twice with no errors or issues reported. I can’t remember what happened but I was either double checking the wiring underneath the dash to make sure that the gauges would function and light up correctly because the previous person that did work on the boat had jacked all sorts of stuff up so I was trying to undo what had been done and get it back to its factory wiring configuration. The tach signal was reading high to start with. For instance when you start the motor it’s sitting at zero but once I was underneath and got back out from underneath the dash I noticed that the tach gauge with the engine off was sitting at roughly 1-2K rpm, then of course rising once the motor started and throttle was applied. When we put it on the lake to test it out on the way back to the boat ramp the motor was running like it was not getting enough fuel or some thing, and honestly I know fuel was not the issue but that was the only thing I could try to relate this to because I had the throttle all the way forward and high knocked on the tach gauge with my knuckles a couple times and in doing so the tack moved and when it did that motor took off like a scalded dog. Sorry for the long explanation but just trying to give you as much info as I can to help you understand the situation and what I’m talking about.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Been busy today so just now getting back on this. Yes the wiring on the console does affect the loom connection with the motor. You can isolate with a remote staring switch like mine and run it in the lake and your controls for throttle and shift should work. Your kill is the remote key which by pushing the key in on mine enriches the fuel (choke) if it runs good on the water then you know you need to get your wiring straighten out up forward. Get yourself a mercury service manual for you motor from mercurymarine.com. it has the wiring colors and what each wire goes to. I'll shoot a picture of the tachometer wiring and anything else that may help you

[@Wrensspeedshop]

@@TimsWorkshopTJY Perfect, I’m literally standing in front of motor right now trying to test stuff out. Any help would be greatly appreciated

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Oh, let me go take a picture. Here you go photos.app.goo.gl/4bWXVDVfor3JqQUM7

[@robnall3483]

Have followed your videos, and have problems at idle, any thoughts, carbs cleaned, new cdi , new fuel lines. New spark plugs, rebuilt fuel pump, seems to have the power now, something is still off, thx

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

What is it doing at idle?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Set all needles at 1.25 turns out from lightly seated. Should work well there... if necessary, open them about 1/8 turn further COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Keep in mind, a COMPLETE SYNC-N-LINK PROCEEDURE is MANDATORY if any carb has been removed. No substitutes for doing it right! Sync-n-Link Proceedure is covered in the OEM Service Manual... and the last step is setting idle speed IN THE WATER, IN FORWARD GEAR (you can set it "roughly" on the hose at about 700-750 RPM's, but will need to VERIFY in forward gear, in the water as your final adjustment to SPECIFICATION in manual).

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Did you clean out the small idle cuircut holes with a small wire. If they are clogged on top of the carb the motor won't idle right

[@GraemeJones1979]

Hi Tim just a quick one, from TDC am I setting 2-4 degrees BTDC or is it ABTDC for idle and 22 degrees for WOT

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Let me look when I get back home. I believe it's above but let me double check and will respond back

[@GraemeJones1979]

@@TimsWorkshopTJY idle on your video looked ATDC and WOT looked BTDC

[@GraemeJones1979]

@@TimsWorkshopTJY found a manual looks like my 50hp is 2-4 ATDC for idle and 22 BTDC for WOT

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Sorry just getting back to you been really busy today shopping with the wife and troubleshooting a RV. Anyway yes you are correct. just looked in my service manual and for the 50, 55, and 60 of that year it's 2 to 6 degrees ATDC which looking at the flywheel it's to the right on zero. BTDC is to the left and 22 degrees which is cranking timing WOT to the stop. Make sure your battery is good and full charged or you will not get the correct reading/setting. Also I had to correct my earlier video setting the idle timing in forward gear. the screw that sets the idle timing to get the 2 to 6 degrees ATDC is the same screw you adjust the idle timing to 650 to 750 RMP in forward gear. it doesn't take much is why the book states to set the timing closer to 2 degrees and 4. that way if you need to increase the RPM you don't go over 6. Make sure to adjust the throttle cable as well so there is a little clearance between the idle stop and screw end. My throttle cable needs to be cleaned and lubed. It's getting hard to push up on the control. New video for my to do. haha

[@GraemeJones1979]

@@TimsWorkshopTJY hi Tim just done the timing on idle it was too high and the WOT was up close to 30. Dialled it all in to OEM spec now so let’s see how it goes

[@turbols1z]

Just tried checking my idle timing and Mark's on flywheel are no where near the cover window. Any ideas?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Sounds like a broken flywheel key. I just helped some else with this and it was broke

[@dhmhtrhsgavrilos6809]

Hi Tim.! Please tell me in my mariner 60hp 2 stroke 3 cyl i have only rectifier but not voltage regulator! In low rpm the voltage are almost 13 but in full throttle are going to 17! I ordered new rectifier but same condition

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

I just came inside to check on my emails and comments. This is a good question so let me do some research in my books and let you know what I come up with for you.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

So below I copied and pasted what a regulator should be reading between 800-1000 rpm basically Idle speed. at full throttle haven't found that but if your regulator is not between these measurements at this RPM then it would need to be replaced. If you see burnt connectors going to your regulator doesn't necessarily mean a faulty regulator and in most cases, just needs new water proof bullet heatshrink connectors installed if your regulator test is good. I hope this helps. Tim The voltage range on an outboard regulator while charging is between **12.5 - 14.4V** ¹. The maximum voltage depends on the temperature, with a maximum of **14.5 volts** at 60 degrees F and **14.3 volts** at 80 degrees F ¹. The float voltage should be 1.0 volts lower ¹. At 800-1000 RPM, the output on the gray wire should be at least 8 volts with a DVA meter ¹. The reading should not be higher than 14.5 volts or lower than 13.5 volts when checking the regulator with a meter ¹. The voltage is usually regulated to around **13-15 VDC** ¹. Source: Conversation with Bing, 9/9/2023 (1) Troubleshooting Battery Charging Issues - Outboard Marine. www.outboardmarine.co.nz/catalogues/battery-differences.pdf.

[@tonykampe8201]

How do you open governor my motor will only Rev to 4000 need to be 5000-5500

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

No governor

[@Unctahdew]

Hey Tim. Could I check the timing the same way with the motor running on muffs?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Interesting question. Let me check my book and get back to you.

[@Unctahdew]

@@TimsWorkshopTJY thank you. Hard to find any info on this procedure online

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Here you go from my service manual. Have it in a barrel of water or muffs but don't start it. Water is just to keep the impeller wet. Timing is done by cranking. Make sure your battery is charged when doing testing or there is a chance for false readings photos.app.goo.gl/uFBVZ75SY2Cdt3hW7

[@Unctahdew]

@@TimsWorkshopTJY thanks so much! I cleaned the carbs on a 2004 merc 60 and after checking the timing it was set at 8 degrees btdc at cranking speed. It was always hard to start. So I moved it to 2 degrees atdc and it idles super low and sputters a lot and hard to get started. I checked the link and sync setup over and over and it’s set up exactly the way it should be. Mixture screws 1 and 1/4 turn out. Sounds like it’s happy at 8 btdc for some reason….i made sure the timing window pointer is right at zero when number 1 is at tdc…..ever seen anything like this?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Sometime the flywheel key will sheer off and the timing is way off until the key is replaced

[@mkell4800]

Can you adjust idle screw without timing light?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

First of all welcome to Tim's Workshop. Good to see lady marine folks on here. So once timing is set on CDI Mercury's there is the following RPM setting procedure. The way it works is your idle timing is set at least on my year of 60hp tow stroke 2 - 6 degrees ATDC. For the RPM idle setting you hook up a RPM gauge and put motor in forward gear on load (in a barrel of water or lake but tied to the dock) the setting should be 650- 750 RPM. If not which is usually higher like 800 to 900 then adjust the idle timing screw to lower the RPM within range. It hardly affects the 2 -6 range at all and actually makes the motor run better. Just make sure the motor is warmed up and battery's fully charged before testing

[@facundomoya2857]

I did the compression check without grounding the spark plugs boots... how do you know if the cdi is damaged?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

You will not have spark on all or some of your plugs. If you have spark on all no worries

[@tonykampe8201]

Not riv.running ram's 4000 I need to get my ram's 5000-5500 for best running how do I adjust?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Hi Tony, so does your service manual show your WOT @ 5000 to 5500? If so and you have your throttle wide open on the lake it could be a couple issues. First make sure your tach is working right by double checking you top speed on GPS on your phone. If your getting close to your top speed for that motor then the tach is off. If you top speed is not there then your motor carb link n sync is not set right for WOT setting or you WOT timing is not set right. My timing video shows how to set cranking WOT setting for the 60hp 1996 merc 2 stroke 3 cylinder motor which is 22 degrees below top dead center. When doing this test your battery has to be full charge and motor in a water barrel. One reason is never run a motor without water or it will ruin your impeller. Another reason is the motor is under a load. Muffs are just good for flushing your motor not for testing. Hopefully this helps. Tim

[@michaelmorrow6853]

Hi Tim I have this same motor. I feel my idle timing is off. Are you for hire? I don't live far from you. Thanks

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

I could take a look and if I get it set for you then pay me what you feel is fair. First I'll just take a look and talk but pretty busy right now. It would be later this month. My email is [e-mail] I'm retired so any day is good for me

[@williamhaskellhaskell3162]

So on static wot timing adjustment 2 degrees more than specs vs 5000 rpm timing? It's unclear !

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

As I said on the video. This was the settings from the professional marine shop. What I was doing is checking what the settings were at after the shop tune up

[@skinnyguy3184]

Hi Tim, great video mate, I have a mercury 75 and im going through this process, for the timing check do you remove the spark plugs from the block?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Hi there, yes remove the plugs and ground out the coil boots to avoid damage to the CDI. Good luck with your Merc. Working on my 57 merc Mark 10 today. I want to get in the lake here soon for a test run video before painting it this year

[@skinnyguy3184]

Sweet thankyou, i bought the motor a few months back but after running it and hearing the severe knock i decided to rebuild it. New pistons, rings, slightly honed block etc, i also rebuilt the fuel pump and new gaskets etc all round, th reason i watched your video is to see if i can get on top of this cold start pop its doing and also slight hesitation at high rpm

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Cool, when you first setup timing there is a check where you use a dial indicator into the number 1 cylinder to check top dead center. I don't have my service manual in front of me but I'm sure there is a reason to check it. Sounds like your on the right track fixing the popping and hesitation at high rpm

[@timothykakue331]

Tim or anyone knows why when do basic and advanced timing, the light is not on. Only on when it's running. Motor is smoke, poor idler and weak.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Not sure what you mean? What light is not on?

[@timothykakue331]

The timing light is not flashing to flywheel, its only flash when motor is running

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

It could be you don't have the timing light hooked up right. Send me a picture of your setup

[@timothykakue331]

@@TimsWorkshopTJY thanks Tim. I have found the Trigger is bad

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Awesome, just in time for boating season👍

[@fish2day918]

How do you adjust timing ?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Watch the video

[@ronst.louissr7685]

its before tdc and after tdc not above and below tdc lol

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Very good, thanks for watching. Weird the book says it and I thought it was odd too?

[@ryanwellz7423]

Same thing

[@tonykampe8201]

Rpm's not ram's sorry

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

No problem I do the same😁