The Top 10 Best Folding Knife and Fixed Blade Steels - According to Metal Complex - Updated 2020

[@metal_complex]

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[@justincrain5268]

I think you'd love LC200N. Edge retention is comparable to 154cm, but toughness FAR exceeds S35Vn and most other stainless steels outside of AEB-L, Sandvick, and Nitro-V. Plus, being corrosion proof is awesome. It is my favorite EDC steel.

[@manifestgtr]

I’d have to say that k390 is *probably* the “best” we have at the moment, all things considered. It’s plenty durable enough for a folder, it holds an edge forever and it’s not an impossible beast to sharpen. The only thing it has going “against it” (which is actually one of the things I like) is that it’s very carbony/non-stainless. Again, that’s a plus for me....my favorite steels are all carbon-oriented steels that age well. Having said all that, my personal favorite steel is cpm cruwear because of the unbelievable edge it takes and its feel on my stones...but that’s just personal preference. I also like vg10, 9cr, bd1n and the Sandvik steels for similar reasons. Also, never underestimate good s30v and s35vn. I know those are considered “boring” nowadays but they’re superbly well-balanced in my experience.

[@PNW_Cole]

Got my first Maxamet pm2 about a month ago. I was blown away at how easy it was to sharpen to hair whittling. Seriously, like 15 min on the Edge Pro with their diamond matrix stones. I went thru the full progression of 250, 650, 1100, 2300, and 4000. Then stropped with Ken Schwartz's 1 micron on balsa, 0.5 micron on kangaroo and finished with .05 on kangaroo. Maybe I'll test the standard stones next time, but it's probably gonna be a while. This knife is holding an edge like no other. Definitely my new fav steel. Also, I have a few Protechs with 154cm, s35vn and CPM-D2. Their D2 is by far my fav. Easy to sharpen and holds that sticky, toothy edge really well. Too bad more makers aren't using it. As always, thanks for the content!

[@spiritedwhiskey4640]

Top 3 for steels for me in no order: CPM-154, CTS-XHP, CPM-3V (fixed blades). Also having a great experience with 6K Stellite!

[@pauldayton5285]

Maxamet , M4 , CPMS35VN !!

[@AudibleVisibIe]

Cpm 154, s35vn, 20cv

[@hollo6546]

Cpm154? How much

[@TanTran-dr8pj]

Maxamet, 3V and M390!!!

[@greekveteran2715]

Best for small folders EDC: M390. Best for hunting knives: Handforged ballbearing steel. Best for Survival knives: 1095. Best for Bushcraft knives: 52100 or 80CRV2. I agree on CPM 154, what a great knife steel it makes!!

[@jydymyyyr9630]

Very informative. It's interesting that the 3 blade metals that tied for 2nd place in your "BEST Steel for (folding knife) EDC" video in Sep 2019, didn't even make this list. Glad you updated with blades you have experience. If you haven't already done a video, I'd like to see more info on the various blade metal manufactures... I'm assuming most knife makes purchase their blade metal from an outside source. Thanks!

[@duaneraymond4252]

What do you think about VG10 and 14C28N in relation to 154CM? Enjoyed this segment very much.

[@pauldayton5285]

I always thought VG-10 was better than 154cm.

[@DamionJR4923]

I always like Benchmade’s 154cm over Spyderco’s VG-10. I think 154cm is a bit tougher a bit easier to sharpen and holds an edge a little bit longer. VG10 is more stain resistant.

[@BT_360]

My Top 3: 3: 14c28n 2: 440c 1: N690 I prefer steels that are tough and easy to sharpen. My 3 favourite steels hold an edge a decent amount of time and are easy to maintain. I've sharpened M390, S90V and S35VN a while ago and i didn't like it. I prefer Ease of sharpening and toughness over Edge retention all day long.

[@americangraffiti6192]

There are so many good steels to choose from today. People get so fixated on the flavor of the day. " If treated properly " is more important a statement to 98% of knife buyers. Than the subtile difference in metallurgy. Buck made a blade empire out of just average steel treated better. 420c is more than sufficient for the overwhelmingly majority of users. What are you using the blade for? Geometry comes into play. Toughness? Again, subjective. Is that feather sticking to one and batoning to another. Tell me there's a tougher steel for batoning than the spring steel's 5160...ect. maybe. Is it worth 3x the price? If you can even tell in a blind real world application. It's like two cars identical in appearance. One has is the latest model with all the newest performance enhancement upgrades, shiny add ons. One is older but built by a master engine builder ( Treated properly ) and it's a photo finish at the line and a dozen people can't decide who actually won. But people will always buy bells and whistles ( like super steels in knifes ) Unless your racing for a living you don't need and will never use 800hp..Same with super steels.But there will always be a market so they will keep making them when S30V is a Ferrari to all but a few .just not the newest.

[@jonduncansakurawallknifegarden]

Not trying to man-splain anything here ... and maybe it’s due to my excessive sharpening in the kitchen over stones, and then primarily with wet stones or a rod system lanksy for kitchen and folders- I’m wondering what is causing your edge to chip while sharpening, and the only thing that I can think of, is that either there may be an imperfection in your stone, your angle (like using your wrist when you don’t notice it turning over the belly’s edge) or that the edge you are making is so flat, and so thin and high, that you are actually adding undue pressure that isn’t flat or even along a portion of the edge, while sliding down the secondary bevel. I used to see guys sharpening our kitchen knives starting flat (laid down in its side) on the flat grind and then raising the edge until it clicks into position, while tilting the spine upwards. Sometimes people do this a little too hard and they are wearing down the edge they just worked on by actually semi-rolling it over while being too thin and the stone is not perfectly flat (it’s course and rough even on a 2000 grit) . I really want to figure out why you’re chipping during sharpening, and get you going so this doesn’t happen anymore. That would be a pain in my ass and I would be turned away from my all time favorite steel (I have too much CTs-xhp and find it inconsistent) and I love Bohler M390. I’m not judging in any way because I worked as a professional prep cook for a living, for years, and I didn’t know how to sharpen well until after I graduated culinary academy and had to learn how to get it sharp for the rest of the day FAST. If you use a knife all day, for hours, and then need it to be as sharp as possible due to safety and ease of use (you will work twice as hard and may hurt yourself with a bad blade) then it becomes a second nature to someone - if you always knew that a certain tool, in a certain condition, made life easier, it would be second nature to make sure that you have a good system in place, to be able to use your knives and know that you won’t have to worry when trying to get them back to BETTER THAN FACTORY edge. If I had a hard time getting gas, I wouldn’t have as much fun when I need to drive. And in the culinary world - it’s a joke to see the edge on a folding knife - they look like butter knives from the factory dude. A factory edge is mediocre at best, and if you can get that knife shaped how you want it, the factory blade grind and blade geo is the START they give you , to be able to achieve a killer knife. Factory edge from Benchmade is ok, but many times wonky. Factory edge from Spyderco, not wonky, but not super thin. Civivi or We, with a tall blade that has room to taper down into paper thin secondary- that’s slicey as F*CK. Those are literally kitchen blades made for cutting through meats, bone and heavy media, and can be used for more tasks than cutting a piece of paracord or cardboard.theyre great even for light food prep, if you want to slice a tomato but don’t want to beaut up there media and crush it on the way through the slice. If the knife can’t easily cut an apple without prying pieces and beating it up, it’s as good as a weak prybar, or a non-cutting knife for scoring and light cuts. I guess some people still want those thick stocks for being able to use their knives for a paint bucket opener , rather than a food grade level tool... but if the knife can’t cut tape due to being so damn thick and won’t cut other media without brushing it, then I’ll use a screwdriver and save the edge lol. Sorry to vent , I just feel like my knives should be able to cut, not just poke - if I can use a kubaton in place of that factory edge and thick stock, I didn’t need a knife for the task anyway lol. Could have used bic pen or a prybar. I think most knife companies assume we use our knives very little, or only for ONE specific thing. If I can’t get that edge done to my liking, it’s being given as a gift to someone who won’t mind having a thick blade or a mediocre edge that won’t cut without excessive force. Hope I’m not sounding preachy because I don’t care what people do with their knives, but I always feel compelled to share what I’ve found, only in the event that someone may take something from it, or catch a new thought or idea that they may not have thought about. There is no right way and I don’t believe any one person to be more or less “correct,” as we all have different wants and needs, and different levels of desired maintenance. I know guys who have some of the nicest knives you could ever imagine, but won’t sharpen anything even once and that works for them nicely. To each their own and I’m not a judge for a living, thankfully. Love these, MC. Thank you !

[@kilegorecruz]

I enjoy all the steel types coming out of the industry now a days. For a long time I had a couple of knives in d2 and s30v. They get me through my basic needs. But im super glad in the like 5 years I've been able to grab a bunch new blades in so many steels. My collection grows exponentially now. My fav steels are Rex45, m4, hap40 and probably still s30v. (Spyderco kills it).

[@mikeboyce21]

And hell yeah.. my 3 favorite steels are 3v, maxamet and 154cm absolutely. Followed by.. cts xhp, aus 8, and 1095. Aus 8 is just super super easy to sharpen.. it just doesnt stay sharp very long

[@BT_360]

I agree with you on Aus-8. The steel is great for a hard use fixed blade and the ease of sharpening is just outstanding. The ease of sharpening and the toughness make up for the lesser egde retention.

[@skylerbond56]

Agreed aus 8 only takes like 5 minutes to get a razor edge back, and doesn't rust too easy and is cheap so I have no issue with it

[@Bittls]

Hi Metal Complex. Did not know you are a Native Kansas! I live in KC and you have unfortunately helped me further my knife addiction with your reviews. I personally love the CPM 154 in my Kershaw launch knives and the s35VN in my AD10.

[@albertmartinete1852]

Awesome video! I’m by no means a steel snob but I love getting all nerdy about blade steels

[@mrk8521]

Its interesting hearing peoples vastly different experiences with the same steel. I don't have a ton of experience with a lot of different steel. But I've had the opposite experience with my s110v manix2. It gets the most use out of all my folders. Because the edge lasts forever and it never chips or rolls for me. My s35vn para 3 though, chips if you just look at it funny. That one is super brittle. Very disappointing. Might have just gotten a dud. But, it makes me not even consider anything s35vn anymore.

[@pauldayton5285]

Wow ! I have the SOG Seal XR Flipper with CPMS35VN steel & I love it ! The HRC is high too 60-62 & I've never had a problem with chipping yet.

[@wchurchill419]

I agree. S110v is top 3 on my list. Have it on my pm2 and have great things to say about it. Stays sharp a long time. I baby it tho..so..maybe I'm biased a bit.

[@Abby_Normal_1969]

One of my very favorite things about knife enthusiasm is the diversity of blade steel. So much choice. And even little differences can make big differences in the qualities of a steel. Add 1% chromium and the steel becomes harder and more stain resistant but also more brittle and harder to sharpen. And it looks like the market is driving the manufactures to put effort into maximizing the qualities of steel as much as possible, given their compositions. This is fabulous. I doubt I would be so into knives if the steel was boring and everything was in 8Cr13Mov or unspecified "stainless steel"; yeah, I'd still have a knife, but maybe just one.

[@lewisward4359]

I have a Benchmade mini-Griptillian with a 154 CM and I find it extremely easy to sharpen compared to D2 and S30V. I decided to remove the secondary bevel to create a "Scandi" type edge. It's wickedly sharp and still holds the edge. Really surprised you chose that as the top knife steel. Enjoying my PM 2 in S35VN, but I would like fatter more contoured scales on it.

[@mikeboyce21]

I have a couple maxamet knives and ive had them a couple years. And i will say this. I love maxamet. If you have maxamet then make friends with a ceramic rod. Cuz if you maintain your edge with a ceramic rod and a strop. You may never have to actually sharpen it. well lets put it this way. Ive only let my 1 knife in maxamet actually go dull and that was after purposely doing so and I'll never do it again. Cuz although i find maxamet fairly easy to sharpen and it takes a great edge.. it does take a long time. My other which ive had for 2 years and ive only stropped and ran on the ceramic rod. And its still a super slicey and scary sharp edge.

[@jamescrozier2806]

I just ordered a para 3 in maxamet. What do you recommend for a ceramic rod and strop?

[@mikeboyce21]

@@jamescrozier2806 a decent 1 and done is the worksharp field sharpner.. thats usually what i use. I also use a small dutch bushcraft knives strop with .5 and .1 micron diamond spray.

[@ozziejim8472]

My 20cv needs to stay sharp to field dress deer from start to finish, I don’t open boxes with it ! Right tool for the right job.

[@GBall_Vision]

Hey MC, looking for some ideas, I just got a couple knives I really wanted, a protech godson, a microtech LUDT, Benchmade CF s90v bugout and a Benchmade Adamas, say I have about 220-250 to get a knife where would you say to look at. I've really been looking at the Ritter Hogue, I may get that if I don't find something I like a little higher priced. Between that and some spyderco knives but nothing has struck me yet from them except the maxamet blades they have

[@jamesfair9751]

S110 is for food prep but which is made for cutting other steal would that be maxamet ? I’ve got spyderco pm2 and para 3 in s110 and a para 3 coming in maxamet. I can’t believe I waited so long to get spyderco knives.

[@richardg6109]

Nice video. I'm feeling really good now about my 154CM Vanguard Mini Sheepdog. What a steal (no pun intended)!

[@AudibleVisibIe]

Both 154s are underrated

[@keithpointer7380]

I've had my benchmade CLA for 2 years in 154cm and never sharpened it and cut whatever I came across I love it!

[@rustyknifelover4463]

I like Maxamat so much I own the Spyderco Para 3 and Paramilitary 2 in it. Just got my first knife in CPM M4. Own multiple Cold Steel knives in CPM S35VN, two knives in CPM S30V, and several D2 knives. I am liking LC200N for some purposes. I have not experienced 154 CM or CTS XHP yet. Great information.

[@Survivalsteel]

LC200N and CPM-3v are my top two steels. Both are very tough and have awesome edge stability. If your check out the link I sent you to knifesteelknerds awhile back and then Petes test at Cedric and Ada channel it gives interesting data on LC200N. One test Pete did lines up fairly close with Larrins when both used a course edge and similar angle per side. Then Pete to the edge to a more polished edge and got a very interesting result. With any testing they always have variables so they need to be taken with s grain of salt but it’s still interesting.

[@nickedcr2320]

Once I mastered the work sharp (ken onion edition) belt grinder I sharpened m390 on my GM Iona. 17deg convex edge, put it through 2 bags of cutting chestnuts open and it still shaved hair after that. 🤯lol Loved it since. Keep the killer content up mc!

[@ZELLKRATOR]

i mean to most people the premium steels (better than high end steels like: 3v, 4v, cpm s30v, cpm s35vn) are: m390 (cpm 20cv and cts-204p are nearly the same steel), cpm m4, elmax, vanax, cpm s90v and cpm s110v. often you hear, m390 is the best balanced of these steels and the winner overall. now vanax came and people think its even better, because of a bit higher edge retention on same toughness paired with much better corrosion resistance. I dont know if its true, i wish there would be a really good comparison... and not only edge retention, also on toughness etc. and on all steels in one comparison not just 2 or 3 of them aus8 is well tested, 1095 is nice, but i think for a tough knife 80crv2 is the best carbon steel, saw so many destruction tests on this steel and it performed incredible, also its used as swordsteel and its not that well know, so maybe there will be a bigger hype in the future.

[@rogersiples3335]

Wow! Your 10th choice is my 1st choice. In fact our choices are almost opposite. 35 and 154 are also great materials.

[@zankelley]

in my user experience 154 cm and cpm 154 are different animals. of course I only have a couple benchmades and bark rivers to go off but the cpm 154 outperforms the former in most ways in my experience. love em both. 1. s30v (just because I have the most exp with it ) 2. 14c28n (cost and use its always been good to me) 3. 3v ( I mean, cmon!) 4. 20cv 5. D2 6. A2 7. Aebl 8. 154 cm 9. Cruwear 10. spy 27 could be different tmrw. but thats how I feel today

[@JW-pj1zd]

Frn sucks I hate it. Just feels so damn cheap if I pay over a 100 bucks for a knife I want to feel I have a knife in my hand not a piece of plastic

[@jonduncansakurawallknifegarden]

Jeff Washinski fRN is when they know that you will change it out anyway. It’s basically a bra. You will take it off... they know this. Look at the bugout. Look the grip and mini grip. They have access to G10 and want to keep the cost down imho. No one LIKES or PREFERS frn homie ... that’s like saying “I like the manual windows because they break less!” We know you don’t prefer the manual window crank... we all hate t6 too and we have been complaining publicly for over 4 years straight and the best companies will give you fRN ... for like $130 or more (lol). Please don’t get me wrong - I’m feeling you like Braille, but I assume they assume we already know it’s a popular knife , and that everyone and their mom will make scales custom from $25-200 for a set of whatever you want. In my eyes, it’s a hubcap on a Mercedes- it won’t stay that way for more than a trip to the shop to get it fixed. Most people buy their frn models and already have the mods first, because they don’t want the model In standard fit. I do this with the bugout when I want to change out some new pants, and MC did the same with a Ti build. It’s fun to do, and if you don’t see it as a “obligation” and you can have fun with it, it can be quite a bit of fun, but it can seem like a pain when they were so close to nailing it, but then put some cheap parts on her. If you really want to find a bad one- check all of your expensive knives to see which ones actually use hardened steel, or halfway decent steel for hardware, which is the weakest point on any folder - why make the parts that will break first, out of crap metal ??? I hate soft screws. I hate cheap hardware that they round off and paint black because they know it’s gonna rust on you and doesn’t have any corrosion resistance or strength to speak of.

[@BT_360]

@@jonduncansakurawallknifegarden good point, but i think that it is kinda stupid to buy a knife where you need to change out the scales. Yeah the Delica is a great knife, but in my country it costs around 100€ and knives with better steels, micarta scales and beefy liners cost only a fraction more. And the Boker Arctos is even ground thinner behind the edge. And the point of the hardware is true. I hate soft screws and that freakin T6 Hardware. Fortunately most companies i buy from have a great customer service and will replace the hardware. Or i will get some quality hardware from a store that sells quality screws.

[@revolvermaster4939]

I love it

[@pcooke9865]

@@revolvermaster4939 Me too!

[@johnnywatson4914]

Nah. FRN slaps. Love it.

[@mitchellnebrosky2765]

What would be the best steel for a fixed blade, pretty thick, but also roughly 3-3.5 inches. Able to be an outdoor knife, pry shit open like cans, sticks, or worse come to worse a door or some type of metal, hold and edge, and not worry tooooo much with rusting. Any suggestions?

[@johngunter735]

How about knife steels such as K390-CPM REX 45 or Vanax super clean?

[@319.e]

I’m all about rex45. Haven’t tried the other two but I can attest to rex45 being solid

[@rickkerans8485]

Nice list. I do also like 14C28N and VG10 They take screaming edges. Don't hold them long depending on use. I want to try Maxamet. Stassa said he doesn't need coating on his 4V and his environment and ours are no where near as wet. Sure we have soupy days where he pretty much lives in suspended water. Lol

[@averageknifeenjoyer3108]

I like aebl is it good compared to other steels tho?

[@jeremyhiles985]

I love M4. That is my favorite steel. I have a super freek, I have a griptilian from the custom shop in M4, I beat them both up and they are amazing. I wish I had an XM-18 in M4. That would potentially be the last use knife I would ever need if that happened.

[@SeemsLogical]

I'm more familiar with high carbon steels from the sword community. 1045 - 1095 is the range most of them fall into. The last 2 digits in the numbers identify the carbon content. Higher number, higher carbon content. 1095 is harder, therefore it holds an edge better and will cut deeper into soft objects. 1045 is softer and is more durable, it will bend rather than fracture upon hard impacts. 1045 is the cheap end and 1095 is the expensive end. 1045 is what's common on cheap "beater swords" that you can abuse and it will bend rather than break in half. Average price range on a 1045 sword is $100 - $250 (and $250 is being generous). 1095 is very hard. It holds an edge very well and cuts deep. The problem is that it likes to chip when used on hard materials. It is a good steel for a short blade about knife length but it is an awful choice on long blades. 1095 generally costs $200 - $600 and it does not deal well with hard impacts. 1060 is the more common variant of high carbon steels. It mixes the durability of 1045 and the edge retention of 1095. This is the ideal steel when you want a practical long blade that won't break the bank. And then there's a step up into spring steels. 5160 and 9260 are the two I am aware of. What makes spring steel so great is its resiliency to return back to form after hard impacts. Hard impacts send vibrations through the blade that cause it to bend (you can see this in slow motion captures of a cut) and both spring steels handle these vibrations very well. I have a few khukuris in 5160 and it's my favorite steel on a long blade. 9260 is better as it retains most of the durability but with a much better edge retention. Then there's tool steels. Their use is fairly new in the sword community and you don't see it all too often. But these are the highest grade stuff that you really only see on custom pieces, typically katanas. I'm not very familiar with tool steel but can recognize some of them. T-10, L6 Bainite and A2. I'm not rich enough to have handled any of these steels.

[@dusbus2384]

Let's be serious. Most of our pocket knife use is opening amazon boxes. Might at well just EDC a box cutter

[@metal_complex]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHO5gWyafLh7oqM

[@319.e]

My top have got to be maxamet (same para 3) m4 (gayle Bradley 2) rex45 (shaman,lil native) s35vn (sebenza and umnumzaan) all such good working steels. M390 and 20cv have been pretty subpar and chippy for me too. Nice honest video! I like that you didn’t just go with what is the current “hot new thing”

[@jamesloerzel4377]

What are you thoughts on s45vn?

[@319.e]

@@jamesloerzel4377 haven’t tried it yet. I’m interested in the new s45 stuff and really interested in magnacut and I still have yet to try cruwear for some reason.

[@jamesloerzel4377]

@@319.e I just bought a para3 in s45 vn and was hoping for some insight

[@jimbeecharmgods]

Love the enthusiastic review. I’m new to the high end knife steel but out of the three decent ones I own s30v s35vn and elmax the elmax is easiest to sharpen and takes the best edge and that on my fox tur. Great little knife.

[@jaypowell0185]

My three favorite are 154CM, M4, and S30V

[@jameshewettjr.3147]

XHP is basically the stainless version of D2

[@manifestgtr]

Based purely on the numbers, yes. But it’s also PM and tends to be used by companies with reputable heat treat processes whereas nowadays, d2 is considered a budget steel used by companies mass producing knives cheaply. So based on those two things, alone...most people will *probably* have a better experience with cpm xhp than d2. I must say, however, that the d2 I’ve used from Civivi and CJRB is very nice considering its price point.

[@skylerbond56]

@@manifestgtr You mean CTS-XHP?

[@FT4Freedom]

Yes. The formal name is CTS-XHP.

[@MrLeonardee]

I tried to sharpen Maxamet on spyderco's sharpmaker, feels like skating on ice.

[@pauldayton5285]

You have the white stones? Were you not able to sharpen the Maxamet ?

[@MrLeonardee]

@@pauldayton5285 yes i do, and the ultra fine ones. to be honest i don't know cause maxamet dont really get dull.

[@pauldayton5285]

@@MrLeonardee Lol I'm still confused , are you able to get your Maxamet blade sharp with the Spyderco sharpmaker? I have a Manix 2LW with Maxamet & I have zero issue's getting it shave hair sharp.

[@SeemsLogical]

I'm not a big stickler for steel quality in my folders. I don't see much benefit in having M390 on my knife when I can get the same design for cheaper with s30v. I am more concerned about steel choice for swords. Knives I care more about ergonomics and aesthetics. But at the same time I'm not that educated on the steels and what their attributes are so I'm watching to learn something. Maybe I'll have an epiphany at the end. We'll see.

[@evanacey1414]

There are infinitely more legitimate uses for a folding knife in your everyday life than there is for a sword.. The only thing a sword is good for in this day and age is as a piece of decorative wall art. So it would make a whole lot more sense to value a sword for purely aesthetic reasons and a folding knives for their blade steel, as that is directly related to a knife’s performance.

[@jimmycricket7946]

If corrosion resistance isn't an issue nothing beats a well treated rex45 @66-67 hrc or a seki city delica in k390 @ 63-64.5 HRC. The only stainless I kinda like is s90v and s110v but I haven't tried magnacut with a good HT at 63-64 Hrc as of yet. 20cv/204p/m390 is almost 20% chromium based which is why I understand the fascination with it, it's really not a good steel composition. I'm looking forward to the day they stop flooding the market with 20cv.

[@dtpfeiffer]

Have you had lot of issues with chipping MC? For me it's just the opposite. S90V has been awesome in my experience, while XHP is just okay. I figured that 154CM would be your favorite and I think 14-4 CrMo is another equivalent to it that was made by Latrobe. I know Canal Street used it quite a bit and some other companies did as well. Pretty sure ATS-34 is the Hitachi version.

[@bwallis100]

What do you think is more hard use and great for most every task large inkosi drop point, xm-18 3.5 slicer, or Medford infraction? And this question is for everyone but also want to know what you think metal complex

[@metal_complex]

The Medford Infraction seems great, but the whole thing is pretty excessively thick. Itll do what you want it to do, but not as efficiently as the XM or Inkosi. The XM SKINNY slicer at .145" on the spine will beat out any of those IMO, but between the standard .165" slicer blade and .140" hollow ground inkosi drop point, its hard to say which is more versatile. I dont think you can really go wrong with any of those 👍

[@bwallis100]

Metal Complex thanks bud I almost have the trifecta I have the sng regular Sebenza and really want an inkosi but at the same time I’m missing my hinderer I traded for a Chaves 229 so I’m really torn between the 3 and just saw on Medford’s channel they came out with a Praetorian Swift FRame lock which looks sick in a drop point! Ughhh so many sick knives and such a small wallet :/

[@lazy1854]

Do you ever think you will ever review or delve into fixed blade knives? Really enjoy your content about steels and metals. Just curious if that will ever carry over to the fixed blade side of the knife world

[@metal_complex]

I review fixed blades every now and then. I have a playlist of all the fixed blades I've reviewed. I like them, just not as much as folders.

[@chrisreuther4546]

Love this topic and how you presented it! I’d love to see you now cover how various companies actually put out steel and the quality. So.. example I think from use Benchmade does a better heat treat on S30V than Spyderco... but on that I understand Benchmade outsources heat treating... it’s not in-house like say Buck.

[@kennethbroadwell653]

Chris Reuther. I have limited experience but it is the opposite. My 940 with S30v chips easily whereas my PM2 with same has held up well. The tip did slightly chip. The PM2 has held a sharp edge for a year now. They both are great knives but the overall quality is better on the PM2.

[@jonathanoehlert5672]

I have a 154 CM that I hate. It will not hold an edge for a minute. I have a s35vn folder that I have split wood with and can't lose an edge! I love it!

[@mj1653]

What is your choice of sharpening system?

[@metal_complex]

KME, but my experience is limited between systems. Love it though 👍

[@jacobgarz8970]

My favorite blade steel of all time is K390

[@savagex466-qt1io]

Tell Jay Fisher you love 1095 :) Hes a "custom" knife maker that wont work with it because it "pits just looking at it" and he wont make a Neck knife. Took me a long time to learn when to use a Neck knife. When your fishing in waiters in deep water harder to get your blade out but not on your neck with a super safe sheeth.

[@azhawk516]

I'm with you on 154cm. It is one of my favorites. Its stainless, decent edge retention, and easy to maintain. What is not to like for a user knife?

[@pauldayton5285]

I've never had good luck with 154cm , I was getting better edge retention with VG-10. What knife do you have & use with the 154cm? The 154cm I'm familiar with came on a Benchmade 949

[@azhawk516]

@@pauldayton5285 I have 154 on several Protech knives, as well as several Emerson’s. I have found it to be really good on those knives. Holds a decent edge and when it starts to dull it can be brought back with some stropping on a pasted strop.

[@pauldayton5285]

@@azhawk516 I've always preferred VG-10 over the 154cm. Would you say those two steels are very close in performance & price? I always thought the Spyderco Endura 4 VG-10 stayed sharper longer than the Benchmade 949 with 154cm. The EDC I'm carrying now has CPMS35VN & I can't say enough good thing's about that steel. It blows VG-10 away !! I'd recommend getting a knife in CPMS35VN if you don't have one yet !

[@azhawk516]

@@pauldayton5285 I have had good luck with Vg 10 as well. I have many knives in s35, and I agree with you. It seems to hold an edge well and is easy to maintain with stropping.

[@jasonf478]

Any thoughts on Lam CoS?

[@daglife5388]

Great video as always.. Educational for steels I have yet to experience.

[@SeaViews-ru3jl]

opinions on cryo treated d2 steel for knives?

[@jessem18769]

I am currently awaiting to purchase a Maxamet blade from Spyderco.

[@ericthorpe5670]

S110v, s30v and (I think) my favorite lc200n

[@natek1993]

It's hard to take these type of videos seriously because every Reviewer on KZbin has never actually used each one of these steels long enough to give an honest opinion. If you haven't had to re-sharpen said blade steel multiple times because of extensive use, you really dont know what is best. When it's all said and done, it comes down to what you plan on using said knife for. This is all just opinion based.

[@metal_complex]

Right. Which means I can say whatever I want based on my own personal experience, regardless of whether or not that meets any individual person's specific requirements. Ive used/sharpened them enough to talk about them and give my opinion. Take from it what you will.

[@thiago.assumpcao]

1080 is better than 1095. Both on same hardness, 1080 will be tougher. Both on same toughness, 1080 will be harder. 1080 heat treatment is also easier. Some blades on 1095 are pretty good but they would be better if made on 1080.

[@Echo5-Tango]

Have you reviewed any Emerson’s??

[@aidanmccormack812]

I’ve had a much harder time sharpening D2 than M4. My native 5 in maxamet didn’t really impress me with edge retention. My dragonfly in zdp was used way more and held an edge much longer

[@metal_complex]

I've had the exact opposite experience. My delica 4 in ZDP was ok, but it chipped and wore down much faster than the maxamet on my para 3

[@mikeboyce21]

Strangely i have a native5 in maxamet and a manix 2 in maxamet and the maxamet on the manix seems to be quite a bit better heat treat. The native has dulled quite a bit faster and the edge rolled a bit. The manix is still going strong and its never rolled.

[@aidanmccormack812]

Interesting. I wonder if I had too high of expectations for maxamet or didn’t know enough at the time to properly gauge the zdp

[@metal_complex]

Well im sure even with Spyderco, there are slight variances. Would be neat to see some new in depth testing! (Not from me 😅)

[@Keith_the_knife_freak]

Nice content. Bit you forgot the ultimate super steel.. r150 spring steel!!!

[@bolsteredblades1463]

Great video mc as usual and you are getting so many more coments. Congrats! And the other day i cut down a 6 inch wide tree with the shaman. Its a beast!

[@whest8085]

Just checked your blade HQ link and found that the praxis and backlash are both on sale and available. Both under 40$

[@sunnyrachelsson3169]

Where's the vanex or lc200n?

[@Samacun]

I have a problem now ., obsessed with getting every tool/knife as sharp as possible and a bunch of shredded papers everywhere. 14c28n steel

[@dropem555]

Hey metal u going to blade show in Atlanta this year

[@metal_complex]

No, but I might catch the next one!

[@tallica4life81]

My 20cv on my bareknuckle and my zt0393hlcf is really good. The 20cv on my smock (knife joy exclusive) is soft.

[@TheBigToe69]

Yet there’s a few videos showing ZT m390 is on the soft side as well as the Keyshawn. Meanwhile Spyderco is pretty consistent at getting good Rc numbers on their sprint runs

[@H20cofilmandphoto2112]

s30v is the best EDC steel hands down.

[@jacobokubo7726]

The only steel on this list I don't own I m4 but I think there in purity good order. The only thing about maxamet is you need diamond stones.

[@jiffylube9051]

hey, love the vids. I like the new crkt squid its the d2 steel. i also like the regular one too

[@ashacklett01]

lmao i like it when he starts half-yelling at himself

[@SignifiKent]

I disagree regarding M390 vs S30V on sharpening... All the S30V I deal with from Spyderco and Benchmade is genuinely difficult compared to the M390 I have on WE and the 20cv on my ZTs.

[@TheBigToe69]

That’s because they (ZT, WE) don’t heat treat them to the 60-62 it’s supposed to be at. I wouldn’t doubt it if you had them tested and they were around 58-59.

[@just-inedc2381]

Very cool! My top 3 are 14c28n, s35vn, and 154cm..

[@kerrykitterman4602]

C P M 154 !! My top choice Too .! Easy to sharpen Kerry

[@jessemijnders]

M4 for just abusing the knife, lc200n for outdoor(sailing) use and s35/maybe s45 for all around use

[@AudibleVisibIe]

Love that 0392 😍

[@bFOURdwZEROlf]

Sick, I live in Kansas, too. Roeland park! :D

[@klaassiersma4892]

I hear coldsteel quit cts/xhp (wich i like )becaus they could not get enough ,my favoriets are cpm 20 and 30 v.

[@robertgraham1049]

Ithink 64-66HRC is optimal for M4

[@chupapi.]

"those knives chip out while I'm sharpening them"

[@birdlaw1019]

No Cruwear?

[@metal_complex]

Not enough experience with it.

[@birdlaw1019]

@@metal_complexFair enough, it's pretty sweet. You would probably like its ease of sharpening (easier than m4) and toughness.

[@goodnessgraciousitellya5004]

K390: the M4 KILLER

[@metal_complex]

Mmmmm.... "competitor"

[@cet.420]

I like CTS BD1N and CPM S30V

[@jonduncansakurawallknifegarden]

Who else just has the desire to fill an rag bag up and go shoot the shit with MC and talk knives. I would love to have some knife debates and some real solid thinking around some of the knives we both tend to like. Come to blade show west hopefully and we can grab a beer with Jeff. Me and Jeff we’re going to shack up together in a good spot so see it. Us would be a peace of cake !! I hope we can rally around a table someday man. Me and my son talk about knives while watching on the TV. You’re a household name in my family of two, and all of my friends who don’t give a sh*t about knives have to endure my thoughts about what “metal complex said “ Lolol. You’re like my family Anderson Cooper 360 😂. Scissors don’t ever get used in this apartment.

[@tallica4life81]

I prefer 20cv because 🇺🇸

[@MountainFisher]

NO! D2 should never be heat treated past 60-61. I've been making knives out of D2 since 1992 and that info comes straight from the metallurgists.

[@metal_complex]

I never said it should. I just couldn't remember the exact number.

[@MountainFisher]

@@metal_complex Well OK, I guess you're forgiven then. LOL

[@MLKusername]

It's just not worth it for me to buy stuff that's prone to chipping. It takes way too much effort (for me) to keep them up. I'd much rather have something go dull and then strop it back to life than to have to re profile the blade to fix chips.

[@notawix8542]

cpm 15 v is amazing

[@jaydeleon8710]

The raider is 1095

[@thekanthalkid4273]

S90V??

[@metal_complex]

S90V tends to be chippy and is VERY difficult to sharpen for the average person. Its ok. Not my favorite

[@thisolesignguy2733]

this was extremely confusing, I couldn't follow any of it...sucks being a noob.

[@spk7816]

I liked the video but sometimes it was difficult to understand what you were saying...i.e. talking too fast

[@E.D.B]

seems like you might like 4v

[@ashmerch2558]

You do NOT want to sharpen K390

[@TheBigToe69]

I use a KME sharpener. I have a Pm2 in k390, Military k390. It sharpens them up just fine. Takes a little longer than some other steels, but that’s part of the trade off.

[@jackherron7140]

I sure likede this video and would love to win any of these knives , I'm tagging and sharing this video .

[@theblake5356]

10. CPM-D2 9. CPM154 8. Maxamet 7. A2 6. CPM-S45VN 5. AEB-L 4. Elmax 3. CPM Cru-Wear/Z-Wear PM 2. M390/CPM-20CV 1. CPM-3V

[@brudyboy58]

To damn commercials. Im unsubscribing!