Building an Attic Knee Wall

[@tranlongphu]

wow, exactly when I'm starting to work on the knee wall. Thanks for the info.

[@metaspencer]

Good luck!

[@frankhassett2496]

I'm getting ready to build knee walls in the attic. I haven't framed anything in years, thanx for the refresher! Lol

[@metaspencer]

It'll be great! Just take it slow and it'll turn out great

[@inspectrgajit]

Started on my own yesterday. Thank you!

[@metaspencer]

You're gonna love how it turns out

[@dennismadigan2023]

Just what I needed to see. I'm getting ready to do my attic and was wondering if I would angle my top plate. Yes I will! Thanks

[@metaspencer]

Excellent! Good luck with the project. It's gonna be great

[@karsonronnie8333]

@Chris Billy yea, I've been watching on flixzone for since november myself =)

[@gideongannon2128]

@Chris Billy definitely, been watching on flixzone for months myself :D

[@IppiopaidFEEDBACK]

Man...I started out putting a bevel on a 2 x 4, but then I switched to a regular 2x4 and realize it wasn’t working, got frustrated and went home. But thank God I found this video so now I know what to do when I go to work tomorrow, unscrew the 2 x 4 and put the one with the bevel back up. Thanks!

[@metaspencer]

Sounds like you're gonna put it together well. Have a good one man

[@bkmbuilds]

Very detailed step by step video. Your tips and tricks will for sure help as I continue to renovate the 2nd floor of my cape cod style home.

[@metaspencer]

Good luck with the project! sounds like a good one

[@duncandoit]

Great video. Thanks for the advice. Pre-loading the studs is a good call.

[@metaspencer]

Good luck with the project!

[@savannalaguna7060]

I REALLY LOVE HIS DETAIL EXPLANATION HE REALLY GETS DOWN & DOESN'T go on & on most DRAG ON he doesn't great enjoy

[@metaspencer]

BIG THANKS! Glad you found it helpful

[@CompTechMike]

Very helpful! Any consideration or suggestions how you would insulate this?

[@metaspencer]

Just insulate your new wall like any other wall

[@Grizzlife]

Nice work. I would use a Kregs jig to predrill the 2xs.

[@metaspencer]

great idea. yeah that's a nice jig

[@lonnieclemens8028]

Good video! I hope to do knee walls soon.

[@metaspencer]

you're gonna love the project

[@1diggitech]

Just had to do this for a loft in a garage.It was to support the load along with having to add additional 2"x 8" joist to accommodate for the added load.The initially built the joist out of 2" x 6" which was odd from the start seeing the overall length of the 2" x 6".

[@metaspencer]

Sounds like you took care of it!

[@ahomesjourney3225]

Thank you for making this video!!! So incredibly helpful

[@metaspencer]

Great to hear!

[@rextyro]

Great video. Thanks!

[@metaspencer]

Thanks for checking it out, man

[@riffdex]

I have a conventionally framed attic 2x6 rafters 24” OC. Above the ceiling joists lies a 2x4 subfloor going perpendicular to the Ceiling joists which is tied into the joists and the wall plates. There is plywood floor over top this and vertical members of the knee wall come through the plywood floor, apparently attached to the subfloor below. Since the knee wall connects to the subfloor which connects to the ceiling joists, can they adequately support my roof rafters at mid-span? In other words, is this framing appropriate for my knee wall to be load bearing?

[@metaspencer]

It's hard to tell from your description because so many other factors are involved: attachment methods, size of the lumber vs load on the roof, and most importantly the location of these supports on the span of the rafter. Note that many knee walls are superficial, not structural ... but its hard to say in your situation what's going on. If you have roof sag that's a telltale sign of a problem

[@tonyw2641]

It is always a joy to watch a master at work! I have a wall like this in a room in my house. The studs are 16 in. apart. I would like to build 4 approx. 43 inch bays into the space behind the studs. That would require removing the middle two out of every four studs. I want to be sure to have proper roof support but unsure what to do to provide adequate bracing, esp because of the angle on the top plate Can you provide a recommendation on that? Hopefully you will understand what I am trying to say. Thanks.

[@metaspencer]

That sounds like a good project and nice use of the space behind the knee wall. If your knee wall is in fact a knee wall, and not part of a truss system, it shouldn't really be supporting the roof. But that is hard to assess without being there to look at it. In the end, what you'll want to have are doubled up studs on either side and additional support in the form of a header up above. That should be more than adequate ... again, I'm not 100% sure without seeing it, but that's my sense. Good luck with it!

[@tonyw2641]

Thank you very much. That helps a lot. I value and appreciate your thoughtful and quick response.

[@BRICEN18]

Very nice video. Thanks for posting. Im planning on doing some cubbies or built in storage in a finished attic. Can I just frame it like a window or door? Header and jack studs?

[@metaspencer]

That seems like a good plan -- if your knee wall is not load bearing you can do just about anything with the framing around those cubbies. If you've got a load you'll need to distribute it. Sounds like it'll be a nice use of space

[@carlos4228]

Hi great video. Very detailed and explained without rushing. How high should your knee wall be?

[@metaspencer]

Thanks for checking it out! Height depends on your room size but is usually 3'-6'

[@carolinegray3150]

Good handy man 👨‍🔧

[@metaspencer]

:)

[@DeGenerationIce]

What size screws were you using? And the 34 degree angle sounds like a great idea

[@metaspencer]

The screws are 3 1/2" construction screws ... you can get them for about $20 a box

[@jerseyscaler445]

Thinking about ripping down a 2x6 with the bevel so you get the angled 2x4 stud to meet the top plate entirely 🤔

[@metaspencer]

sounds good man

[@talimultiservice796]

How did you measure out the top plate to match the bottom plate ?

[@metaspencer]

simple tools like a level and tape should be all ya need. marking on a story pole can also help

[@peterpostiglione5150]

hi- for the top plate, if the rafters are 34 degrees, the top plate should be ripped at 34 degrees? or would you do 90-34 and rip it at 56 degrees?

[@metaspencer]

I tend to mark live angles on a piece of scrap in that kind of situation, just to make sure any variation is captured. just my approach

[@knittingthestash]

really cool build! Thanks!

[@metaspencer]

Thanks! Not enough knit wear in this one :)

[@dannyt2684]

Is the exterior wall balloned framed or was there a small wall added for the truss to sit on?

[@metaspencer]

no small wall added ... trusses just sit on the top of the exterior wall

[@dannyt2684]

@@metaspencerthat’s interesting. So the floor joists are about 2’ below to top plates?

[@metaspencer]

@@dannyt2684 yep weird old building

[@carlos4228]

Know did you do for side walls not being 16” for Sheetrock hanging? Also the ceiling

[@metaspencer]

Yeah no sheetrock on this building, but 16" on center is typical

[@williamkeehn3637]

Looks like you be having a good workout

[@metaspencer]

so true!

[@tonygallas6504]

I notice your knee wall studs have a bit of overhang on the top plate. im building a knee wall in my attic and thinking maybe a 2x6 top plate may prevent any overhand of the studs against the top plate. What you think?

[@metaspencer]

Using a 2x6 up top would be great -- absolutely. Framing with nice square 2x6s is always great when you can do it

[@jasonluna4939]

How do you find the angle of the rafter?

[@metaspencer]

Just hold a PLUMB piece of scrap up against the rafter and draw a line. Pencil and a level and you're all set

[@chelysgarage1457]

How do I make my 2x6 stronnger So can create a hangout spot for my boys. I have an old 1928 farmhouse. With true 2x6 joists

[@metaspencer]

The strength of the structure is not just about the wood, in your case 2x6s, but their distance, length, bracing, connections, sheathing, etc. So there is a lot to consider with that question.

[@leroyhoward272]

Great video 👍. How do you find the angle for your top plate?

[@metaspencer]

I shoulda shown that. Just hold a 2x4 scrap piece up there and draw a line with your level

[@lpetters84]

Excellent video! I’m about to do this very same thing. Any chance you could elaborate on how you found the top plate angle with a scrap 2x4? I just can’t quite picture how to do this properly.

[@metaspencer]

I should have showed that better. Just put the 2x4 up where the plate will be and draw the line down from highest point using a level held plumb. That is the cut line to rip at an angle

[@lpetters84]

Thank you sir.

[@metaspencer]

You bet!

[@RichardBenavidez-q6x]

What if your installing Sheetrock on both sides is there different way?

[@metaspencer]

Sheet rock the inside first

[@SteampunkSteve]

Very informative

[@metaspencer]

thanks for checking it out man

[@herbertburden4696]

Does that top plate have T be leveled out

[@metaspencer]

Depends on your situation. In this case, with a very old structure, it wasn't possible so I had to improvise

[@kenyonhairstylingprofessio6018]

Great Video! Do you NEED a top plate OR can I sheetrock using the Rafters? So it would go like this: Floor, Bottom Plate, Knee Wall, Rafter (Knee Wall attached directly to the Rafter)

[@metaspencer]

Drywall tends to warp and wobble if it doesn't have something to screw into on all sides so I'd recommend some kind of framing on all edges. Even a 1x1 to screw into will help

[@kenyonhairstylingprofessio6018]

@@metaspencer Thanks for your prompt reply. Does the use of the Top Plate add as much Support to the Rafters as not using one?

[@metaspencer]

It has an equalizing and stabilizing effect

[@kenyonhairstylingprofessio6018]

@@metaspencer Sounds good. Does the Top Plate need to be 1 long 2x4 or can it be split into 2?

[@metaspencer]

@@kenyonhairstylingprofessio6018 I don't quite follow you there but keep in mind that carpentry is always specific to the location, existing framing, etc ... so there's no one single formula

[@chelysgarage1457]

How do you frame out the hip and Jack rafter when the hip is longer than the jack and you want a smooth transition for drywall.

[@metaspencer]

That would take some creative furring strips, I'm guessing ... you might even have to build out a bit from the rafters just to make it perfect. Good luck with it!

[@TheRoadTaken]

My unfinished attic (house built in 1978) has 2x4 running perpendicular to the rafters and attach to the joists. They are spaced out about every 4'. They intrude on what would be the finished of area. Would a knee wall be able to replace these perpendicular 2x4 that are currently there despite the angle difference?

[@metaspencer]

It sounds like that would work but I'm thinking those existing 2x4s are serving a stiffening purpose, perhaps even structurally vital. So always replace existing members with more strength and support, not less

[@TheRoadTaken]

@@metaspencer I suspect they are structurally vital, too. I just cannot tell if a knee wall would be an equivalent replacement due to the angle of the 2x4 being at approximately 45 deg rather than 90 as in the case of a knee wall. There are a total of 4 of the 2x4's (perpendicular to the rafters and attach to what I believe is called a Perlin) but in the space I'm hoping to reclaim, there is only one in the way. I was thinking I could reinforce the two outside of the area I want to reclaim with 2x8" and add a 2x8 to the existing Perlin and essentially build a header (like over a doorway). Visually looking at it, I would be building a door way frame only instead of being vertical it's leaning over at an approximate 45 deg s the original 2x4. This should allow me to remove the 2x4 that is in the way, plus I can put in my knee wall, and structurally speaking, everything should be solid. After removing the one 2x4, the distance between the remaining perpendicular 2x4's (reinforced now with 2x8) is 12'. Does this plan sound solid?

[@metaspencer]

@@TheRoadTaken I don't think anyone could consult on such a project through some messages like this ... you've gotta see something like this to make such a decision. The existing configuration you describe is pretty common. Any decent framer will be able to build out that area, assuming it's structurally able to take the added weight and has enough room for your new space.

[@atticreno6746]

​@@metaspencer Glad to hear it's common. Thank you for taking the time to respond. Looking forward to watching your other videos and learning more. Happy New Year!

[@whoolph]

Good project . . . . good tips . . . . . Rog :)

[@metaspencer]

Thanks man! Always nice hearing from ya

[@chelysgarage1457]

I want to sheet rock the attic but my hip rafter is bigger than the rest of the roof rafters. Can I box it in and how or do I need furry out the rafters

[@metaspencer]

You could do it either way: box in the bigger rafter or add strips to the others to make them all match. Keep in mind, though, that attics are part of a moisture dissipation system in a home so you'll want to develop a new way to make sure moisture doesn't build up and cause mold issues if you sheet rock it up

[@luisfernando-mm3jt]

Nice video

[@metaspencer]

Thanks man

[@arturocamacho408]

How many degrees do you cut the top plate so that it won't affect drywall???

[@metaspencer]

Depends on you roof pitch. Scribe a line on a plumb 2x4

[@Lettermark]

detail...had me wondering how to find beveled angle of top plate. Figured it out...since you are squaring. Find angle of rafter, then subtract from 90 to find beveled angle cut of top plate. In my case, angle of rafter was 45, so 90-45=45 is angle of bevel cut into top plate.

[@metaspencer]

Nice formula. I've gotta admit that I'm not a math guy so I typically just plumb or level a piece of scrap and draw a line. I like how you think!

[@Lettermark]

metaspencer thanks for sharing the video. About to start our own knee wall in the attic and yours was most helpful. Two thumbs up

[@gustavocaceres7269]

Hi I am trying to convert and attic space into a office but my floor joist are 2x6 and the spam exceeded the requirements how can I fix this issue Thank you

[@metaspencer]

2x6 tongue and groove sub-flooring with a wider joist span works, but you need to know that those joists can take the weight

[@shaneharms1895]

Did you end up insulating and closing up with dry wall? Just curious about your ventilation.

[@metaspencer]

In this case everything remained open and the knee wall was to enhance structural strength. If you drywall and seal things up, definitely attend to ventilation as you can end up with moisture build up at the top of any structure.

[@mcchatman6226]

i have seen people do this with out top plate do you think it ok to go that route

[@metaspencer]

Yeah some do it that way. The top plate stabilizes and is nice to attach wall board to

[@tylerstafinski6013]

How do you know what angle to rip the top plate at?

[@metaspencer]

Since every roof is different -- the easiest way to get a perfect angle is to plumb the vertical member and then draw the cut line

[@tylerstafinski6013]

@@metaspencer I think I know what that means… use one of the exterior wall studs already cut to mark your top angle?

[@metaspencer]

@@tylerstafinski6013 yup ... measure each one in place if you have to

[@tylerstafinski6013]

@@metaspencer alright cool thank you! If all else fails is it required to rip it?

[@metaspencer]

@@tylerstafinski6013 Do ya have a lot of construction experience? if not, this might not be the best project to start out with :)

[@Clothis64]

After the functional foot, here is the functional shoulder 👍😉

[@metaspencer]

Whole body workout!! Haha

[@louishollandjr]

What about insulation are roof has Ben Spray foam I want build walls for closet with ceiling.

[@metaspencer]

The only thing to watch for is moisture buildup. Make sure you have a venting solution so you don't get moisture, which is common high in a structure.

[@wheremydogsat5374]

Why did you use screws? Not a nail gun?

[@metaspencer]

in some cases I prefer them, that's all ... do what works for ya

[@yojuanjose1]

Do you really need to put a top plate?

[@metaspencer]

It’s good for hanging drywall on, distributes the load evenly ... but you could do without sometimes

[@yojuanjose1]

@@metaspencer really appreciate for taking your time to respond back. Thank you!!

[@nloncto02]

Looks great man! Thanks for the video.. How did you figure out what angle to notch out that top plate at so those studs line up perfectly ?!? Is it the same angle as the roof joists/angle the studs are cut at? Thanks again!

[@metaspencer]

One way to get those angles right is to use a piece of scrap, a level, and do some sample cuts until you get it dialed in perfectly. Then your perfectly angled scrap can become a template for future cuts.

[@jessejcarter]

What did you do for the side walls and windows?

[@metaspencer]

There weren't any on this job ... just the knee walls, no windows ... sheathing was drywall but that was after I left the site

[@jessejcarter]

@@metaspencerAwesome. So was the knee wall built into the stud cavity on the side walls? or did you stop short to leave space for insulation and/or drywall?

[@metaspencer]

@@jessejcarter in this case I believe I built it into the stud cavity as it was an outbuilding with no plans to heat/cool/insulate. But you could definitely leave space for that as a knee wall like this isn't structural

[@louish.9414]

I need 3 knee walls one 13ft , 8ft , 6ft plumb Bob to find bottom plate.

[@metaspencer]

Sounds like a good project.

[@JEC11718]

The Chevy is back? Video on that too, Spencer?

[@metaspencer]

Back in action! Update coming soon ...

[@mcchatman6226]

I"m sorry but you got me working the rip are done,,thx.....but how do you get a straight bottom plate ,,the easy way

[@metaspencer]

Straight lines for the plate are easily established with a string :) good luck!

[@antonyanguianoramirex6265]

nice! subscribing

[@metaspencer]

Thanks for the sub! Good to have ya

[@antonyanguianoramirex6265]

@@metaspencer thanks for the knowledge bro.

[@steveche42]

How did you calculate the angle for that top plate?

[@metaspencer]

You can calculate but I find the best way to get an exact match is to draw the angle on a piece of scrap and then transfer the angle to your miter saw. That way you can get it exactly right every time, and with some sag or variation across the structure you can get each piece just right. Tools are just a level, piece of scrap, and a pencil.

[@steveche42]

@@metaspencer Thanks!!

[@mcchatman6226]

do i have to rip the top plate..

[@metaspencer]

No but it helps if you’re installing drywall

[@orthoouchcare3769]

What is the height of the knee wall?

[@metaspencer]

It depends on what you want….this one was about 5’

[@orthoouchcare3769]

@@metaspencer thanks

[@mistirashotte8851]

How do you find your angle?

[@metaspencer]

There are a couple of ways to do it but the easiest and most accurate is to: 1) stand a plumb 2x4 up in place where your knee wall will be. 2) Then hold another 2x4 in place that runs along your ceiling/roof (floor edge to ceiling highpoint). 3) That second 2x4 will allow you to draw a line on the first 2x4 ... and that line will describe your angle. 4) transfer that angle to your miter saw and go!

[@mistirashotte8851]

@@metaspencer awesome thanks

[@bethmay191]

I like the use of your shoulders and head as your helper. My brother has hung sheet rock balancing on his head. I 😜

[@metaspencer]

The head comes in handy I guess! :)

[@ilickspam]

can we see how your wall looks by now please? :D

[@metaspencer]

Oh, it's so fresh! Lots of routes and places to try new things

[@abmoralesrosado]

Why no insulation?

[@metaspencer]

It's a back garage/barn type building, so no heat source. There used to be an old wood stove out there, but it's long since gone

[@tommytomtomt]

framing this on the ground and installing in one piece would have saved you a million

[@metaspencer]

Too much variation in the roof for my taste but I see your point

[@deaddog5172]

That's ok but what about a concrete floor

[@metaspencer]

On a concrete floor you just need to use pressure treated wood for the sill plate and affix it to the floor with concrete screws

[@ohske]

😯👍👍👍👌

[@metaspencer]

Thanks!

[@jpz6072]

3 dislikes are those who failed to calculate bevel angles.

[@metaspencer]

haha ... could be: that does get frustrating! :)

[@jf8947]

1 like the video.

[@metaspencer]

First to check it out ... big thanks!

[@markjacksonturner6462]

shouldn't be using deck screws. Too brittle, narrow, and lacking strength. Should be using actual construction wood screws.

[@metaspencer]

Oh yeah, you're definitely right. I tend to use construction screws for just about everything these days so didn't realize deck screws were used on this one. Good tip man!

[@timmathias2677]

Why wouldn’t you just build it and knock it in

[@metaspencer]

Variable rafters ... none were the same height from the floor in that old structure

[@wilterdormevil8988]

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[@wilterdormevil8988]

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[@wilterdormevil8988]

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[@wilterdormevil8988]

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