MF 165 Brake Repair

We go through the process of repairing brakes on a 165 Massey Ferguson tractor including de-greasing and repair of the actuator.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Another good one Dave, I have been a tractor mechanic for a living for 34 years and you are offering good no bull advise. Keep em coming.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Bundy Bears Shed Thank you! I appreciate the complement from a pro. :)

[@TheDungorm]

Found a 165 in very rough shape - I was pretty confident that I could tackle the clutch and power steering issues but I wasn't sure about the axle seals/brakes until I found this video and saw what was involved. Anyway, I bought it and made the repairs - it's now one of the most useful tractors on our farm... thanks for helping us keep farming on Vancouver Island!

[@CanadianRedneck15]

A fellow Canuck :) thank you for doing your part to keep us all fed! Thank you for the positive feed back, I am glad that you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!

[@reidsingletary6288]

thank you for all your awesome videos too. been watching alot of them

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoy the videos, many more on the way! :) Thanks for watching!

[@SherifMehmeti]

Very helpful video, thanks for sharing with us, found it in the right moment .

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Sherif Mehmeti Glad it was helpful!!

[@jcave66]

Well done, very helpful and easy to follow...I have a 1963 MF65 four cylinder Continental engine. I started out replacing the old wiring and ended up rebuilding almost all the electrical components....I finally fired the baby up, ( purrs like a kitty), and wouldn't you know the left brake was stuck. I managed to work it free by shifting from forward to reverse several times applying right brake and thought that the problem was solved and that she had just been sitting for too long. Wrong answer, brake locked up again while driving down the road to the neighbor's. Limped her back to the barn and found your video. Didn't want to get into this brake job, but it has been an experience and your video was better than a tech manual. Thanks again, keep it up. Caveman

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Jeffrey Cave Thank you for the kind words, I glad it was helpful, that was my hope in posting!

[@MrMskilll]

Thanks buddy, you are very instructive in the best sense. Keep up the good work. Dries South Africa.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Thank you very much, I appreciate the encouragement, thanks for watching!

[@harryenslin8739]

Dave excellent job keep it coming I learn a lot

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you are enjoying the videos and find them helpful, thanks for watching!

[@georgedoorley5628]

in fact he is a gentle giant , speaks in a whisper , never complains no matter how tough the going !!!

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Guys like that often are very gentle, anyone with a clue would know better than to mess with them.

[@michealtunnell]

Thank you for the video getting to know what I'm getting into when I tear mine down

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Awesome, I'm glad I could be of help! Thanks for watching!

[@thealabamafarmer3293]

thanks for the info just got done with mine on my 165 thanks for sharing

[@CanadianRedneck15]

AWesome, I'm glad I could be some help, thanks for watching!

[@kenmontgomery287]

Im getting ready to do the brakes on my mf 203 workbull. I also like your no bull how too. Thank you

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Ken Montgomery Thanks, I hope it was helpful!

[@utulangi6078]

Thank you for sharing and taking your time to explain.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoyed the video thanks for watching!

[@littledoga]

I'm also canadian, I've got a 255 massey ferguson which has zero brakes. It was my dad's . I still have the tractor but I don't have my dad. I 'm needing to be able to get the parts for the tractor, you seem very informative on working on this equipment. The housing on that tractor looks identical ,I have not yet tore down the tractor because of useing it to do firewood. The identification on the back of houseing will have notches identifying how many brake disc there are for wet brakes. Mine does not so I'm good. I've found some places that I can purchase parts but not idividual parts like the ball bearings in the actutor , seal's that nature. I read a comment that you said you were a dealer. A Web site would be very appreciated to look and order parts thank you. Ken

[@CanadianRedneck15]

You can find my website at www.chowntractorparts.com and it also has a link to my online store and my contact info so you can reach me for help ordering if you need. Thanks for watching!

[@MrMuzzery]

Cheers from qld Australia. I have bought a 2203, with loader and backhoe , I believe it has a 165 back end, so this should be what I’m dealing with.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am not familiar with a 2203 but MF did have the good habit of making many parts common among a wide variety of models so I expect that you are correct. Thanks for watching!

[@jarmojarvinen1585]

Hi. Did the same repair last december for both sides, would be good to have your video available before that :-). Anyway we were very successful also. We did not clean expanders just bought new ones, bur exercised with old one. Anyway this was good, someone who is planning to do same will find this very helpful.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Jarmo Jarvinen (Jamppa535) I'm glad you enjoyed the video, sorry I didn't have it up sooner. :) Sometimes it isn't possible to save the actuators and replacement is the only option.

[@robstaples4933]

Thanks Dave, Now I know how to fix my late fathers pride and joy. Its been sitting for 27 years and started with a fuel filter change and battery lol!

[@CanadianRedneck15]

That's great, I am glad you found the videos helpful, thanks for watching!

[@hubertrobinson8825]

Good information I remembered those the later ones had wet brakes mainly the English made 165 even had a bigger engine 212cid Perkins were great tractors

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

[@4.203Perkins_Norway]

Thanks from Norway!

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

[@Puffie40]

Currently working on the brakes of a MF180. Your video is very helpful.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Puffie40 I'm glad to hear that, makes the effort worthwhile!!! :)

[@motorhead6763]

I have vídeo on MF 165 hyd pump and lift cover rebuild. Excellent tractors. Nice video

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Nice job on your videos, I like the 300 Utility. :) Thanks for watching!

[@masseymm]

Good one Dave, very informative, I think my 255 has wet brakes, most likely a later improvement.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+masseymm I believe that some of the late 165s had wet brakes also, kind of a work-around on the the fact that the dry brakes rarely were dry. :) Gal you enjoyed the video.

[@brianp454]

I have a 255. How do I find out if it has dry or wet brakes?

[@fakefoster966]

You Rock! I just bought a 1971 MF 165 near as I can tell from the s/n and you gave me a lot of confidence to replace my breaks. It has a loader and backhoe so a little more to consider, but I think I have everything I need to tackle it. I plan on using it in North Georgia mountain area, so got to have good brakes. Not sure if I have dry or wet breaks yet, I think I've seen kits to convert? Have you ever come across that, and or have a recommendation?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Thank you! I am not aware of a conversion kit but it is certainly possible. They make a fine backhoe tractor for personal use, I've used one before, lots of fun, just like in the sandbox when I was a kid. :)

[@leeroyexcavator9149]

Awesome info

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

[@seismoid7137]

May brake locking up problem was that the parts house sent me a "wet" brake actuator with 7/8 inch balls. After I took it apart, that is what I found. Got new actuator with 1 inch balls (and shorter ramp) and all is good now. This fixed my brake lockup problem. Guess it's best to take the new actuator apart to be sure you get the right part. They look the same...but not.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you found the problem.

[@karenkishphotography]

Awesome information, nice video! Could you explain how to adjust these type brakes?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Karen Kish Photography The threaded rod that sticks out through the axle housing is the adjuster, tighten it up so you can get a reasonable amount of braking pressure at a comfortable pedal height, but not so much that the brake drags. Thanks for watching!

[@leschampsmarins1392]

Hi! very very good job on the video,it take some patience and generosity to take the time to do all that! i have a question, i have a 1975 mf275 , are they the same breaks system? i have to open it in the next couple of days for a break job.thanks a lot! Roberto

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Hi, thank you for the kind words, it makes the effort worthwhile! I believe that the MF275 would have the wet brake system, meaning the brake disks run in the lube oil for the differential, but otherwise it is very similar. The actuators work the same but there are 3 disks rather than 2. Thanks for watching!

[@67HotRod1]

Good video, Thanks!

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoyed, thanks for watching!

[@seismoid7137]

Great video Dave. I had to replace the actuator and brake pads on my 265. Now, when I apply the brake, the wheel locks up. It seems real sensitive. It releases immediately, but it just grabs too much. Any comments would be appreciated.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

These mechanical systems can be pretty touchy. You can try backing off the adjustment a bit to give it a little more room to work. Thanks for watching!

[@dextermcclung7693]

very helpful thanks

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I'm glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

[@mikehumphrey6872]

Thanks for the video man! Do you ever work on wet brakes like whats on a Massey Ferguson 265 or 285? Ive got some that just grab immediately instead of gradually braking harder the harder the pedal is pressed. Ive not torn into it but would you assume its that applicator? Always enjoy these videos!

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I haven't had anything to do with wet brakes but it could be the actuators or the disks could be worn down to the metal so they grab. Good luck, and I'm glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for watching!

[@hedspase]

thanks for sharing this

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoyed, thanks for watching!

[@derekevans8266]

I thought all square axles had wet brakes as well I am sure they were in the UK. You should check down the axle on dry brakes towards the hub reduction to make sure the oil is coming down from that end. Its a big job to replace these seals there was a special tool or you need a hydraulic press to get the hub apart. Also on wet brakes never over adjust the brakes or they will bind, Jack up until the wheels are off the ground and adjust the brake so they are on just before the pedal hit the floor and check the wheel turns easily when the bake is off.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching!

[@Lewatu]

Good one help a lot

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I ma glad the video was useful to you, thanks for watching!

[@hedydd2]

This is very surprising. Coventry built 165 up to 1972 had round axles with dry brakes. From 1972 they changed to square section axles like yours but the whole range of four cylinder tractors went with wet brakes at the same time. The only models I know of with square section axles and dry brakes built in Europe that I know of were the French built 1080 and the Manchester UK built early MF1200 bendy model. Dry disc brakes are the work of the devil with the wet, oil immersed ones being brilliant, consistent, powerful and very long lasting on even heavy duty haulage work. Pretty sure there is a way to convert those dry brakes of yours to wet, by drilling a couple of big holes in the first plate you took off, removing the oil seal and fitting the relevant wet brake parts. Another modification that was made to wet brake models in the 1980's was to remove the seal between the main axle and the planetary hub units, because they finally realised they are pointless.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I agree the wet brakes are definitely superior, the dry brakes rarely were dry. The US built models didn't follow the same change pattern as the UK models unfortunately. Thanks for watching!

[@kurtmanns9074]

Got an MF165 here in Germany, probably UK or French made. Original manual shows a handwritten "1970". It has the square axle housings I saw in your video but has additional hand brakes at the outer ( wheel ) ends. If I recall it correctly you said you couldn't tell wet from dry brakes until you take the axle housing off. Neither do I though I googled quite a lot. Maybe I missed out on that, but : Do I have to drain the gearbox or anything else before I start taking the housing off ? Is there difference between wet and dry brakes in this respect ? Thanks a lot !

[@CanadianRedneck15]

You will want to drain the trans/differential as it would pour out when you pull the axle housing. Thanks, for watching!

[@34979Charlie]

Many thanks for putting this up ... I´m getting ready to do the brakes on my MF 65 which are non existent , there almost identical by the look of it

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Yes, the 65 and 165 would be the same or at least very similar depending on the year. Good luck and thanks for watching!

[@buddhudd1054]

never knew any square axle had dry brakes!! here in Ireland , round axle dry brakes,square axle wet brakes .

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Budd Hudd It is likely the difference between the UK and US built tractors. Thanks for watching!

[@Ketis1985]

if i remember correctly. the french made 165:s has square axl....

[@butchmat1950]

Enjoyed video, I have a question. I purchased a Massey 50 backhoe. Right brake locks and will not release without going opposite direction. Previous owner said he didn't have any problems until he replaced brake discs. He did not do anything to brake actuator. He tore it apart again and took to local garage, they said to sand surface and put it back to together. Said it looked good. However, still locks up when applying brakes. Could this be my problem? I think it is the same set up as the 165. Thanks

[@CanadianRedneck15]

The 50A does have the same brake system as a 165. My guess is that the new disks are a softer material so grab harder and that is why they lock. They may "wear in" or you might just have to put up with it, sorry. Thanks for watching!

[@dhlwood]

Thanks My Dad left me a 1965 165 and he always kept in in great condition.However in the past year not used very much.I am having a problem with the right side brake.It feels like it is grabbing so for my use of the tractor i just have not been using the brakes the tractor is used in open field's only and mostly sand.Would love to have the brakes repaired but until i saw your video i did not know what was involved.Could you tell me anything else that would cause the brakes to grab and an idea of what the repair would cost me.Thanks nice video

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Quite often a small amount of oil will make brakes grab, when they get thoroughly soaked they then slip. I would guess that you had a small oil leak on the shoes or some dirt built up in the actuators that is making the brakes grab. Thanks for watching!

[@Bmooore84tj]

Hey Dave do you know if the brakes from the other axle MF used are similar to the brakes on the cast housing like the one in the video?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

If they are dry brakes they are similar although they may be a different diameter disk. Some of these had wet brakes as well, they use a similar actuator but the disks are thinner and there is three of them and a steel separator plate. Thanks for watching!

[@Superkalpo]

Thanks!

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I'm glad you enjoyed, thanks for watching!

[@squarewheel6182]

Thanks Dave, your video's, are so helpful. My mf40 has bad brakes, they seize up very easily, they are the same configuration as on your video (square housing) I figure they might be down to the metal. I believe you can buy a wet brake replacement, if so, is it better to stick with the discs or change them out, cheers Tom

[@CanadianRedneck15]

If you can get a wet disk kit to replace the dry bakes I'd go for it. Thanks for watching!

[@squarewheel6182]

@@CanadianRedneck15 Thanks again

[@procoroledesma8742]

gracias por el video

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

[@Ketis1985]

From what year is this Massey? Because theres a4203 engine and square rear axl.... had there been some kind of major damage and either the engine or rear axl has been changed?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Ketis1985 I'm not sure of the year, it's not my tractor, I just did the repair. As far as I know everything is original, I've seen quite a few square axle tractors with the 203 engine.

[@robguilfoil2470]

I'm in the middle of a brake repair on a 165 and your video has been invaluable. Any suggestions on how to remove the axle seal near the planetary? Also mine had a lot of rust inside. How would so much moisture get in?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I'm not sure which seal you mean but pry bar maybe? Moisture would get in through the opening for the brake linkage when the humidity is high. Any time you've seen "sweat" on the outside of your tractor the same amount of water has collected on the inside of the case as well. Thanks for watching.

[@robguilfoil2470]

The seal I'm trying to remove is the outer one closest to the wheel end of the axle. Mine is installed with the metal end of the seal facing the inside of the axle. The open side of the seal is facing outwards and there is nothing to pry on or grab onto

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Try driving a pry in behind the seal so you have the metal to grab onto.

[@derekevans8266]

If you are talking about the seal right behind the wheel between the planetary and the rear wheel, This is a very difficult job, You need to remove the planetary hub then there is a special tool to pull the planetary hub off the sub shaft and its super tight. You then have to use a hydraulic press to press the hub back on back on. Its not a DIY job. I have only ever done this three times and I worked at a Massey dealership for 14 years. We had to take the hub to an engineering company to borrow their big press to press it back together.

[@davidreinbold5223]

Hi Dave, it’s Dave from Australia... I have got this job ahead of me very helpful video will have it right by our side... any chance would would have the MF part numbers for them balls and seals?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Your best bet is to check at www.agcopartsbooks.com/ you can look up your tractor there and be sure you are getting the parts that fit your tractor. There can be a few variables with the MFs depending on country of manufacture and year. I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

[@davidreinbold5223]

Legendary, thanks a lot!

[@charlietanner6211]

alway,s good idea to break down outside plantarey check gear,s and replace seal,s that can be source of oil on break,s

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@karuptwade83]

I may have missed this in the video but would this need repeated for the other side? I have a mf275 needing brakes this looks fairly similar will be my first time working on tractor brakes. I have the it manual. Thanks

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Yes that is correct, repeat for the other side. Thanks for watching!

[@tayechbelete7381]

Hi Dave, thanks for video. I got MF40 with bad brakes. Any input where to buy them ? I am in Canada. Cheers Mike

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Any of your local dealers should be able to get them for you. Thanks for watching!

[@tibitibi7844]

Hi. If you don't mind i have another question. THE disk brakes you put there are bought same or they are deferent în splies, because i have seen with 27 splies and its normal duty, and with 28 splies heavy duty. I hope i don't buder with this question. Thank you.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

There are 2 different size disks and I believe they have different spline counts. I don't know how to tell which you would have until you get it apart and measure. Your questions are no bother at all, thanks for watching!

[@reidgeo]

Hi there, I have a massey ferguson 165 and a few years ago I replaced the brakes and since then my brakes jam on and I have to reverse my tractor so they will release, my question is what could have caused this to happen ? I didn't change those balls and wondering if they might be getting stuck on the ramp ? Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated !

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I have run into that problem before but have never really found the cause. Thanks for watching!

[@seismoid7137]

Dry brakes. I know the difference. I guess just go inside and see what I find. This was a new actuator and brake pad. Everything was clean. I'll figure it out and let you know.

[@JimsNBHomestead]

I need a valve cover gasket for a Ferguson 35 any ideas where to get one?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

www.chowntractorparts.com

[@nikoprto578]

👍👍👍👍

[@hippygunster]

Thanks for posting. Very good work! Do you have any experience with an old Massey Ferguson 88 and the brakes on it? Is this a similar brake system?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+MANNIS Thank you for the compliment! I have not had anything to do with an 88 but if you check the agco parts site you can look at the partsbook online, just log in as a guest. www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/login.aspx?region=NorthAmerica Thanks for watching!

[@danieljohnson9700]

I have a MF 30 industrial tractor, the brakes look the same from the outside. Would i use the same procedure?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Yes, same deal the industrial tractors are very much like the farm tractors. Thanks for watching!

[@kierancl]

if My handbrake is good but by brakes are flat, do I need to take it all apart? its a hydaulic system on a 300 series

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I think the park brake is mechanical and the regular brakes are hydraulic so yeah, you'll have to check but likely needs wheel cylinders or master cylinders. Thanks for watching!

[@martinpetersen7180]

My 165 brakes work as one. it seems like the left and right brake have seized together. How do i get them to work separately

[@CanadianRedneck15]

There is a latch to connect the 2 pedals together, make sure it's not latched. Both pedals work on one shaft, one is directly fastened to the shaft, the other rotates around the shaft. The shaft can get seized to the shaft by rust and dirt, you may need to work it free and lube it up. Thanks for watching!

[@reidsingletary6288]

hi my friend. I've got a question. my 3 point lift has quit working. I took filter out and it had what looked to be a clutch plate broke up into little pieces around filter. I cleaned filter and every thing went back to working, but only for a little while. when tractor is first started 3 point lift works great, but within 15 minutes of bush hogging it would drop. I took filter out to look again and looks like alotta metal partials in oil. ( tractor is a 1990 240 Massey ferguson w 232 front end loader. ) I used it using bucket for a lil bit Monday and now lift winy work at all. Front end loader will work, but it sounds like its constricted making a whinning sound. I'm a mechanic and worked on a ton of logging and construction equipment, but never messed w a small tractor. your help would be greatly appreciated. pto works great, two stage clutch works great and hydraulics still working. no lift now and had the pieces of clutch band broke up around filter. I want to get this thing right BC I'm going back into produce farming and got a couple hundred acres it has to maintain.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Not all but most MFs have a separate pump for the loader driven from the front crank hub. It sounds to me like yours may have a separate loader pump if the 3pt has stopped working but the loader works. The internal lift pump may be worn or the lift cylinder fastened to the bottom of the lift cover. Some investigation should help you narrow down the cause of your issues, good luck!

[@reidsingletary6288]

also, filter prob never been replaced. Is it possible filter is just that stopped up?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

The filter could certainly be plugged. You shouldn't have to split the tractor. If your loader works and the rear lift does not, then it's likely the lift cylinder for the 3ph. The lift cover comes off and the cylinder is bolted to the bottom of it.

[@MrMskilll]

After doing the brakes on our MF165 as your vid showed, we encountered another problem! The brake on the wheel we did, right hand side, every time going forward, the brake binds and only comes loose by jamming hard on the pedal or picking up the actuator? Please advise asap. After binding, going backwards also releases it. Regards Dries, SA

[@CanadianRedneck15]

That sounds like the brake is dragging all the time, try backing off the adjuster. Thanks for watching!

[@MrMskilll]

And only while in motion?

[@MrMskilll]

We eventually found the problem, the springs on the brake actuator was stretched and unable to roll the actuator back resulting in a stuck position. We actually replaced the actuator as a whole and all was OK.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

@@MrMskilll Awesome, I'm glad you found the problem.

[@carlosjuarez8469]

Hi Dave do you know the price of two used trumpet housing of the Massey Ferguson 280

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I expect it depends one where you are, general rule of thumb is half of new. Thanks for watching!

[@khurambeg6098]

For long life break and better grip

[@glenparks5175]

Good deal I got a old mf 65 it needs this done so now I think I can handle it

[@CanadianRedneck15]

As long as you have something to lift the axle housing back into place I have no doubt you can handle the repair. Thanks for watching!

[@jcave66]

Hey CR:I have taken the dust cover off but the first disk seems to be froze in place. I tried a little prying with screwdriver and chisel in the space in between disk and actuator from the lever hole to free the disk, but am afraid of damaging either or both of the surfaces. Can I pound a chisel in between the actuator and disk or maybe there is a trick?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Jeffrey Cave It is probably stuck to the splines on the axle. You can try giving the disk a tap inward (the wrong way) to unstick it. You may have to unbolt the planetary from the outer end so you can drive the axle out of the housing if it's stuck too badly.

[@jcave66]

Thanks beat the hell out of it damaging the disk and used an air chisel lots of pb blaster an about 200 lbs of elbow grease finally got both disks off, inner was worse... Actuator came off easy. You're correct in assuming they were frozen to the shaft. Will have to replace disks. The actuator has a couple scratches on the inner brake side, do you think for that reason I should replace the assembly. I plan on cleaning everything up, replacing the actuator bearings, the disks and the seal. Also could you tell me the best online parts store. Found most parts on yesterday's tractor.com, but they don't have the actuator bearings/ balls. Thanks

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Jeffrey Cave I had to get the balls from a MF dealer. For online parts store check out A&I Parts.com and search for a local dealer. Scratches on the actuator surface shouldn't be too big a problem as long as they aren't big gouges.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Jeffrey Cave Glad to help! You will have to measure the balls in your actuator, there are 2 sizes.

[@jcave66]

Thank you.

[@tibitibi7844]

Hello. I have a question. The disc break mf 165 are same with mf 158?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am not familiar with a 158, that i not a model we see in North America. Thanks for watching!

[@seismoid7137]

I have adjusted the pedal, but still grabs real hard. I'm not afraid to crack it open again, but I don't know what the heck it could be.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

A 265 is wet brakes right? Is it getting oil in on the brakes like it should?

[@jaypatterson1780]

Hello, is this the same process for a MF40 Industrial Diesel?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

The MF40 would have the same brake system, pretty much the same differential housing complete. I'm not sure, but some of the late MF40s may have the wet brake system, but is pretty well the same process. Thanks for watching!

[@jaypatterson1780]

Great video! Thanks!

[@ivordavies2976]

should you have renewed outer seal as well, that is seal which keeps oil in epicyclic reduction, by the way I have an old sawbench and I want to fit a perkins engine to it what is best distance between flat pulleys

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I think you should talk to an engineer about the pulley thing with some details about what you intend to power with it.

[@ivordavies2976]

since I sent you message I have been watching on youtube a guy who did similar to what I want to do so when job is done I will post it on here but it will be in 3 or 4 months

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Cool, I look forward to seeing it.

[@buddhudd1054]

I subbed

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Budd Hudd Thank you for the support!

[@simengyland7988]

Wasnt you suppost to oil the seal in with grease before you put it togheter

[@CanadianRedneck15]

You could put a little oil on the lip if you like but you don't want grease in there that could contaminate the brake disks, they'll get oiled up soon enough as it is. Thanks for watching!

[@Blunder44]

Great Video about to do a 3165. Where do you get your parts from?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Blunder44 Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful! I am a tractor parts dealer. :) Search for A&I Products to find a dealer local to you. Thanks for watching!

[@enednas801]

Have a Belarus 1025 here wich I bought from a neighbour who flipped it and trashed the cab. put on a used cab and Im gonna sell it but it had brake issues. they bite and lock the wheel with no matter how gentle u press the pedal. they are dry discs just like this mf 165. it had newly gotten a brake repair before he crashed it and the friction disc was fine and the expander plate was new too. after alot of messing about the brakes started to bite normal but after standing still for a week they were back no nightmare. they kept locking the wheel and would not brake smoothly. had bought the discs of the dealer and they said "non asbestos" and Im pretty sure the material on them are not best suited for this kind of system. on a belarus facebook page I was adviced to get the "russian brakes" from belarus and not the aftermarked type. I found some other brand from a tractor webshop in Estonia. they where red material and I prayed as I tried them.they are very easy located infront of the rear axle and disassembled and reassembled in 1,5 hours each side. low and behold they have worked normal and good. the friction material was what made this thing a living hell for months xD needed the russian brake part ;)

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Thanks for watching!

[@charliebrooks1999]

I am thinking about buying a mf 175 tractor. The left side breaks need some work. Should I go ahead and buy the tractor and work on the breaks myself or keep looking for a tractor that need less work. And how long does it take to replace the breaks? I mean how many hours?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I guess that would depend on the price of the tractor, what you have for tools to work with, and how comfortable you are with doing the work. It's not a difficult job if you have a shop crane or another tractor with a loader to lift the axle housing, if you plan to lift manually it would take 3 men and a bear!! If all goes well I would think it would take in the area of 2-3 hours to do the job, and parts (brake disks mainly) aren't terribly expensive. If the tractor's a good deal and you feel comfortable with the job, go for it. Good luck and thanks for watching! :)

[@charliebrooks1999]

Thanks for the info. I do have the the tools because I live on a dairy farm in Missouri. Do u think $1,800 is good for the tractor?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

It certainly a good price in my area, in good shape they would run $5000 or more, but you really have to check what the average price would be in you area to know if it is a good deal for you.

[@charliebrooks1999]

Thanks for the information.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

The multi power is a hydraulic clutch pack much like a PTO clutch pack, they were a great idea but by now can be troublesome. I don't understand why the multi-power would affect how it shifts, that is a bit of a puzzle.

[@chrishicks9372]

Is the brakes the same on a M/F 4255

[@CanadianRedneck15]

A 4255 is a fair bit newer, I expect that they have hydraulically operated brakes, probably disks on the axles though so somewhat similar. Thanks for watching!

[@steves47150]

Good to know about not lubing op the actuator ball bearings, Thanks

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Steve Scott Your very welcome, everyone gets to learn from my mistakes! :)

[@motorhead6763]

We have alot of new age Landing and New hollands made in Europe. Very troublesome with electrics ...alot of high tech junkie stuff . Old Mahindra are good. Volvo make good tractors not sold here in America .

[@hasansahinturk1765]

çok begendim

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

[@georgedoorley5628]

seen a man take one off on his own

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Thta would be someone you wouldn't argue with! Thanks for watching.

[@markomikic6394]

Do you know tractors IMR and IMT made from Yugoslavia?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am not, I haven't seen either of those brands here, though there certainly could be some around. Thanks for watching!

[@markomikic6394]

IMT is a license MF, but IMT tractor with Rakovica engine (Perkins) is very good tractor. Tractor IMT with 170 to 370HP have Mercedes engine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4HOl61rgduXaaM

[@lutzlischewski3361]

Hi there, a seal is probably not necessary? Lutz

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Usually you will need a seal, an oil leak is often the cause of the brake failure. Thanks for watching!

[@lutzlischewski3361]

@@CanadianRedneck15 thank you for replying. After the long time it took to make the video, I could only hope. the fact that you try anyway makes you very reliable.

[@kristenmork4549]

Can rusty and dirty old balls make the breaks "snatch" or "grab"? Instead of making a soft breaking it stoppes immidietly after touching the pedal?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

The brake balls need to be clean for proper operation but grabbing is likely because the axle seals are leaking and making the disks grab, you will likely need to replace the disks. Thanks for watching!

[@kristenmork4549]

@@CanadianRedneck15 It's on a 168 with wet brakes

[@niclaskaiser3835]

jey thank you verry much this video is perfekt^^

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

[@motorhead6763]

Landini from Italy and Bulgaria. Relabeled as New Holland. John Deere not so good anymore either .

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Waaaay to much electronics on newer tractors, with the dirt and vibration they don't last. New Holland and CaseIH are both owned by Fiat now, made in Turkey and Italy. Red Fiat or blue Fiat, I'll pass.

[@domenicocarbone5969]

Brake adjustments

[@Blunder44]

Hi I have a question. I have a differential lock on the left side do I have to do anything with that or will it come out with the axle assembly. Thank you

[@CanadianRedneck15]

+Blunder44 The dif lock will come right out with the axle, once it's off there is a roll pin through the fork to remove to get into the brake cavity. Be careful as the fork and rod are under spring tension. Thanks for watching!

[@williamjindra6652]

In the oil out of the rear end

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Yes you would have to drain the hydraulic oil. Thanks for watching!

[@domenicocarbone5969]

How to adjust the brake on a old massey ferguson tractor 1960s

[@CanadianRedneck15]

That would depend on the model. Thanks for watching!

[@khurambeg6098]

Why you're repals in oil break (o.i.b)

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I don't quite follow what your saying, but these are dry brakes. Thanks for watching!

[@cormacdaly4633]

Are all 165 breaks dry brakes

[@CanadianRedneck15]

I believe that some of the late 165s had wet brakes. Thanks for watching!

[@cormacdaly4633]

Thanks and how do you know if it is a wet or a dry break

[@CanadianRedneck15]

@@cormacdaly4633 Perhaps someone else can chime in on this as I can't tell til I pull the axle housing. The wet brakes Have a different style of disk and I believe there are three on each side rather than two.

[@cormacdaly4633]

Thanks for your help

[@scottyboy7804]

Hey what did a little boy go in the background lol

[@CanadianRedneck15]

God knows. Thanks for watching!

[@khurambeg6098]

Change in oil desks break ar she o I b

[@satyanarayanpatel1074]

mahindra 265 di bhumiputr ka

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Thanks for watching!

[@markosparko7873]

I think your girlfriend escaped around 1:58 :-)

[@CanadianRedneck15]

LOL, that was my son finding a shady place to play. :)

[@markosparko7873]

Figured as much, looks about the same age as my youngest lad. Very informative video, thanks and God bless.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed the video and God bless you as well!

[@henrywarden5368]

Does a 165 and a 165 UK both have the same braking system?

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Yes they do and either could have wet or dry brakes. Thanks for watching!

[@henrywarden5368]

Thanks you are the man :)

[@althomson1549]

Web site parts book is no good for me. You have to have a dealer supplied log in. MF/Iseki Thailand will not respond to emails. If you want to phone you have to speak Thai or they just hang up. Local manager is good but she needs part numbers.

[@CanadianRedneck15]

Below the login there is another button, "log in as guest" click on that and you are golden.