MG Rover K Series Head Gaskets Review - The 3 Types Why 2 Fail

There is now a much better 'N series' head gasket (HG) for fixing the k series 4 cylinder engines. SEE NEW BUYING LINK below.
The early elastomer type could fail due to the elastomer(rubber) seals becoming detached. The next MLS (multi layer steel) with shim sometimes fails due to leakage around the shim and poor installation. The N series all in one MLS type of gasket is a superior design that appears to have fixed HG issues. I've done a number of HG failure jobs recently and here are some findings on why they failed and a look at the new 'N' gasket design that I have used successfully. This 'N series' gasket is the type used on the MG6 which has no HG issues. It is also of the same design type that the kv6 uses, which again doesn't really have any issues with HG reliability.
There is a lot of opinion out there on forums about which head gasket is best and under what circumstances. Some of the best advice be had here: www.dmgrs.co.u...
The n series head gasket is currently on eBay UK, the link is below. If it gets out of date, drop me a comment and I'll update it.
ebay.us/IWnZ8V
See my other video on making the k-series reliable by a number of upgrades:
• K series - How to Make...
Subscribe to the channel for similar DIY, fixing stuff, car bits and tech reviews here:
www.youtube.com...
Note, if you want to be notified of new videos click on the bell symbol on my home page.
See other videos on my channel here:
/ comeinhandynow
If anyone wants to show appreciation for any money savings, or just help support the channel and future videos then you now can. Use this link: paypal.me/comei...
OR you can support me by using the Amazon and Ebay links to buy other stuff that you would usually buy, it will not cost you anything more, but will help this channel. e.g. Generally useful stuff:
Face mask:
Amazon UK: amzn.to/2GHE9d6
Similar ones on Amazon USA: amzn.to/2IHmip1
Eye goggles: Amazon UK: amzn.to/2IUSqos
Amazon USA: amzn.to/2GAtIXJ
Rubber disposible gloves are also useful, here's the links for
eBay USA: ebay.us/GGqmTJ
eBay UK: ebay.us/cE1BHK
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3aikbl8
Amazon USA & others: amzn.to/3cdwjpD
A set of precision screwdrivers:
Amazon UK: amzn.to/2W311si
Amazon USA & others: amzn.to/2Z322T5
Torx bits sets:
Amazon UK: amzn.to/2Pgmf48
Or Amazon USA & others: amzn.to/2XlOK3h
I’m on Facebook here: / comeinhandynow
Become a Patron to get extra content or previews or sponsor here: www.patreon.co...
The video is about my personal opinion and experience and contains no paid for product placements. No responsibility is accepted for any perceived recommendation for or against a product or feature nor any consequential damage or harm since this video is just my personal experience. You accept by watching this video that you accept any responsibility for any subsequent actions or decisions that you take.
Note on copyright / licensing: This video was created using Apple iMovie and as such any music or video content is fully licensed by their terms and conditions for free publication and distribution.
See the Apple iMovie software license agreement at:
images.apple.co...
Which states "all Sample Content included in the Apple Software may be used on a royalty-free basis in your own video projects"

[@johnbrereton5229]

I've had three Rover cars fitted with their K series engine and I've never had a gasket failure on any if them. My present one is a Rover 45 with the 1.4 K series which not long after I bought it started to run badly so I took it to the garage and they told me, its the head gasket and then quoted me £500 to fix it. This was early in 2020 and as the Government told us all to stay home, I though while im at home I might as well do it myself during lockdown. When I took the head off, I soon realised it was in fact not the head gasket but a leaking vavle. It was also fitted with the newer single steele head gasket. While I had thd head off I reconditioned it and after talking to MGRover spares I bought the gasket as fitted originally with the silicone inserts which they told ne were far better than the original. So while I had the head off, I also fitted new piston rings and then re- fitted the head using the later stronger bolts. Here we are 4 years later and it still drives perfectly with no problems. So how bad are the older Rover type gaskets, when mine works fine ? Also how many cars like mine were wrongly diagnosed with a failed head gasket, when in fact it was fine ?

[@comeinhandynow]

Well done. The k-series is a better engine than many people believe. It was awarded a ‘design centre’ award and uses some good principles like the oil pump driven directly by the crank. The original elastomer head gaskets can fail by the elastomer moving so the ‘N series’ gasket is better if installed well and that is the key.

[@johnbrereton5229]

@@comeinhandynow Thanks for the reply and yes I had heard that the steel gasket was the better one. However, when deciding what one to use I asked the chap at 'MG Rover discount spares' and he said the latest polymer gaskets are superior to the original ones, so I decided to fit that. In 4 years it hasn't let me down and I've done a lot of miles. Nevertheless, what ever gasket you use, it is a great engine and in my experience not as fragile as its reputation would make you think. I believe it was the later expanded 1.8 engines that suffer head gasket problems not the original, lower powered 1.4 versions. Also it needs to be done properly and I suspect many garages might have not taken the care that it needed when fitting them. Anyway, it is a great engine and I love driving it, shame Rover is no longer making them. 👍😊

[@comeinhandynow]

@@johnbrereton5229 Agreed

[@T16MGJ]

One very important point worth stressing again when repairing any car engine needing a new Cylinder Head Gasket. Checking, cleaning and assembling the engine components are within manufacturers recommended guidelines is essential. It's not simply the case of fitting a "better" gasket. The very best gaskets in the world will not last long if these important checks and preparations are not done properly. Yes, even in well run pro-outfits they can and do get it wrong. Then it's cue "Repeat failure mate.. they all do that" Well known fact in the trade... ;-)

[@comeinhandynow]

Very true.

[@T16MGJ]

Interest comparisons there. Thanks for putting it up. Bought two new K-Series cars still on original Cylinder Head Gaskets. One in 1993 and another in 2003 ( MG ZS 1.8 ) and in family use including today. I think far too many folks use the term FAIL where head gaskets in any cars are involved. That includes a work colleague with his BMW 5-Series. According to him, his car's CHG has failed. Invariably, they rarely fail. More likely they are first damaged by severe over heating and that excess of heat damages gaskets so they no longer are able to do the job they were designed to do. We have also two cars in the family fleet both bought cheaply with suspected "HGF" of which I fitted MLS Head Gaskets with Head "Saver" shim. Ten years on after that work still in regular daily use. However, far too many folks whip off the old gasket and bung on the new There's more to it than that. Cue so called "repeat" failures soon after professional repair where basic checked were not done. Those checks are for truth of head-to-block interfaces and the all important cylinder liner heights. Failure to do these basic checks to see all is well means "They all do that Mate" so called repeat failures. A very convenient get out clause for incompetence.The best gaskets in the world will "fail" if basic checks of components are within manufacturers recommended are not done. I have repaired successfully six so called pro-repair "repeat failures" where the real failure is incompetence. In my experience, the prime cause of cylinder head gasket DAMAGE is coolant loss leading to severe engine overheating. That excess heat causes engine damage and the first component damaged is usually ... guess what. I recovered a work colleagues Toyota on my trailer and he drove on when it was obvious something was wrong with his car. It needed more than a head gasket. It needed a replacement engine. Still lets ignore that, Lets blame the poor old Head Gasket. Been on TV and everything and those folks are professionals and always know what they are on about. Stands to reason.. My brand new tyre failed soon after having it fitted. There was a dirty great six inch nail in the side wall. It had not failed. It was damaged! Finally, in my experience, the major cause of engine over heating in K-Series engines is coolant loss. Prime suspect for coolant loss in K-Series engines is a Worn Out ( not failed ) Water Pump. There are other reasons for coolant loss of course and those need to be identified and rectified or stand by for a repeat "HGF" soon after repairs.

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks for your interesting comments. Good to read that you do it yourself and keep these MG Rovers on the road. You write a lot of sense.

[@michaelb9664]

MG John. Why do you suppose the HGs both failed in my ZR and 25? ZR owned from new, always well maintained. 25 second owner low miles, well maintained. No lack of fluids or overheating causing the gasket to fail. I’ve always caught the gasket failing very early on and no further damage has been caused. But in my case I definitely think the gasket was the failure rather than something else leading to it. I love the K-Series. It’s a great engine. I’m actually now on the lookout for a ZT-T 1.8 Turbo. I’ve no qualms running a K engined car daily. They are light, powerful and easy to work on. I definitely think there is a weakness with the original HG design. Other gaskets and seals are problematic too, such as the IMG and cam oil seals. Not major issues, cheap and easy to replace, but definitely a bit of a weak point to an otherwise strong and robust engine. I’d still take a MG-Rover product today over anything else of the same age. New cars don’t appeal.

[@mgjohn8534]

@@michaelb9664 Hi Michael B. My view is that they rarely fail of their own accord. Any new component or old can have something wrong with it and so not be good for the job and that shows up eventually as a weakness sooner or later. In my experience, there is usually another root cause when head gaskets, in any car .. fail or become damaged...There is always a reason for these things. Trick is finding that or those reasons. . My daily drivers are now two MG ZT-T 1.8Ts. Also a Chinese built MG6 Magnette saloon. The last named a 74,000 mile car bought as an MoT failure engine donor for one of the ZT-Ts. That ZT-T over heated at speed when the BMW style spring loaded coolant hose clip let go and became detached unseen from the Coolant Outlet Elbow on the front of the Cylinder Head.. That enabled all the coolant to escape very quickly at speed unseen until the needle on the coolant temperature gauge reached the top and on came that big red light. Not only was the Head Gasket damaged, but the excess heat broke up a few of the piston lands between the piston rings. I was to discover all this later when working on that engine. The MG6 was far too good to break and I spent less than two hundred quid getting it's Mot. Then rebuilt the ZT-T 1.8T engine with new liners and pistons. Not a huge expense but lots of my enjoyable DIY time. The rebuild was a success. Better than I could have hoped and effectively drives like a new engine ... which most of the components now are. Yes, I agree, the much maligned K-Series is a cracking engine in more ways than one... ;-) I like 'em and so do the Chinese who snapped up MG's IPRs for peanuts. The MG SIX is a better car than I had been led to believe. Stay safe .. Safety Fast Motoring in fact .. the old MG Advertising slogan.

[@T16MGJ]

@@michaelb9664 By the way Michael, I agree with you when you say :~ "New cars don’t appeal.". With the exception of say an Orange McLaren and maybe one or two other "exotics", nothing any of the current range manufacturers have to offer in their modern model line ups appeals at all. Nothing appeals... I will not join the massively increasing ranks of SUV/CROSSOVER car consumers. They maybe a means of getting about for the majority now, but not for me. I shall continue creeping about in my aged MGs and Rovers which have and continue to serve me well. They cost buttons to purchase relatively and run. Even the new MG ZS my wife's daily driver for seventeen years now pre-Lockdown ~ with the "They all do that 1.8 K-Series" only my one has not done that. Yeah, I know I'm lucky.. ;-) For instance, my MG SIX recently purchased costs less to obtain than my always buys German friendly neighbour pays for a few weeks rental/pcp or whatever finance for his BMW-Bi-Turbo ... wait for it OIL BURNER. Plus, he will not arrive any sooner than I do in my cars. I gave him a lift in my old ZT Saloon some years ago. He was genuinely surprised by the car and the way it goes. Yet, when the time came to buy his new car... German. Finally, OK hold my hands up... Very Guilty M'Lud.. I lied .. about the "creeping about" bit... ;-) ...Stay Safe.

[@amana1480]

As well as putting the N series gasket, it's also recommended to put the new modified stronger head bolts and new modified stronger lower oil rail thing that goes in the sump at the same time...

[@comeinhandynow]

Yes indeed, see my other video kzbin.info/www/bejne/l37Gm5ZpgdKArJI

[@joaovilaca4204]

Thank you for the advice, I'm near to change the head gasket to my 414, and I will buy the multi layers type of gasket, it's totally reliable.

[@comeinhandynow]

Here's the item on Ebay UK ebay.us/kcmDaR

[@politicazlo8926]

@@comeinhandynow tell me the article and company of this gasket. your link is not working

[@jamieclayton9]

Another issue of using the triple layer gasket is the Liner heights. If they are not spot on, the triple layer gasket will not seal correctly. The N series gasket has seemed to have sorted that flaw in the earlier triple layer gasket. I know a few people who have used the new N series gasket and also the toughened oil rail and have had no issues at all. It is a more expensive kit but if you intend on keeping the car for a long time it is worth the investment. My current Rover 25 gasket failed at just a smidge over 50,000 miles. Failure was down to having the wrong coolant in it and a slight seep in to the evaporation chamber on the water pump. Because i know what i was looking for, I caught the failure at its earliest stage. Just a very small amount of oil in the coolant system. No over heating issues whatsoever. Because my liner heights were not spot on, the original beaded gasket was used for the repair. I also replaced the original radiator with a better quality alloy variant. So far I have covered 17000 miles without losing any coolant or oil at all. I will be dropping the coolant in the next few months and will replace with the same good quality OAT coolant. Thanks for posting the videos on your channel. I always find them very interesting :-)

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks very much for the comments, some useful experience. There does seem to be a lot of opinion on what gasket to use under what liner height situation. One of those links in the description has a summary on that, but like you I now only consider using the N series gasket as it seems a better design and it has proven itself. A recent HG job I did with the N HG after 18months had a very slight weep of coolant that was easily stopped by checking and retighening the head bolts. One bolt near the weep seemed to have a low torque. I think the bolt was a bit weaker, or something settled, so I swapped it for another less critical location and retorqued up all of them checking the rotation spec as well as torque. Checking the torque on a bendy bar torque wrench while doing the 270/360 degree rotation final tighten allows you to check there is reasonable torque, which was just over 50lbft. They were the new stronger bolts, which they say should have a final tightening twist of 270 degrees, although on retighening I went for the normal 360 degress with no issues. No leaks now. On old cars they used to say when fitting a new HG to recheck the head torque after 1000 miles, maybe a bit of that principal is still applicable. That's one other advantage over the elastomer HG as when that goes retighening will not help.

[@comeinhandynow]

I forgot to add that I noticed in a photo of that gasket mention above that the part number had been stamped into the gasket too close to the sealing edge, which is where it was weeping from. Something to check before fitting next time.

[@josepeixoto3384]

didn't understand shit; liner height,this and that.....HG...i'll keep on searching

[@billysgeo]

HG = Head Gasket

[@djs909]

I just can't believe that they settled for these rubber addons to the gasket which were "glued" on. Of course they will fail. I'm working on mine as we speak. MLS gasket with shim is going in.

[@comeinhandynow]

Yep, doesn't look that good, however they obviously lasted a lot of years despite that. I am tempted to try the Victor Reinz head gaskets that are rubberised but with a bigger rubber contact surface area for better gluing and clamping. The one advantage of the rubber sealed ones is that when they stay in place the seal is possible tighter. Whereas the purely metal gaskets have been known to show a little bit of seepage sometimes, even though it shouldn’t go in a major way. I must try and look up peoples experiences with the Reinz gasket.

[@mikechaffin8100]

Out of interest... Who made the original OEM head gasket for the K series engines?

[@alvarocortesconti9543]

Hello... Here from Argentina. I have been watching your videos and they are very good and useful. I am about to repair a rover 45 1.8.. bought the 6 ply gasket along with higher grade bolts and reinforced oil rail. They tell me that the shirts should protrude 0.1mm for the joint to seal well. What do you think? Greeting.

[@comeinhandynow]

Hello there. Yes around 0.1mm is desirable although I have fitted the 6 ply gasket to engines with nearly flat cylinder liners and it has been ok. Now when the liners are near to zero protrusion I prefer to fit shims to the bottom of the liners to raise them up. See the description of these items of K series liner shims: Ebay UK: bit.ly/30nNFMh

[@josepeixoto3384]

I think the problem is not only that ( think with me, i am retired, i learned this from the Rover factory itself, from its service manual:) The factory says that the protrusions of the 4 cylinders/liners must all 4 be THE SAME and 0.003 inch ; (that is almost impossible to find on a well used car,in 4 cars i repaired, i did not find it ) the reason being that the cylinder head is rigid at 0.000, and a steel gasket IS NOT a gasket, no way it will seal,it will NOT seal. So,either you shim the low liners at the bottomto be 0.003 inch above the block/deck (you NEED to know how to do that..) OR you use a GASKET,i mean,NOT a steel make believe stack of shims; Of course a steel gasket will never burn, also it will look like it works, but as soon as you push heavily on the horses, the hot combustion gases will leak between the sheets through the silicone and paint makeshift beads!! hoses will blow,radiators will blow apart the side tanks,seen it all; the steel (plain,embossed) gaskets work well on exhaust manifolds,not on head to block; I am doing a 25 1.4 right now,2 liners are at .001 and 2 are at .0025 inch,and i ran out of gaskets,real old style gaskets,need to order 2 or 3; Of course,the engine must not leak coolant (hoses,clamps,water pump..!) but that goes for all cars. Greetings from Portugal

[@songokussj6572]

My rover 25 2005 orginal head gasket

[@comeinhandynow]

Nice

[@callumwhite6141]

where do you get these n series gaskets from?

[@comeinhandynow]

I updated the link in the video description section so it points to one supplier currently selling these on eBay UK. I hope that helps. Sorry about the original link being out of date.

[@patriciomunoz2830]

My neighbour is working on a freelander with failed HG what he should check? What is that liner clearance everyone is talking about

[@comeinhandynow]

Here is a recent video of mine on the engine in the freelander which should help. There are more on my channel kzbin.info/www/bejne/bnOoin2OYqyCf8U

[@comeinhandynow]

The liner clearance is actually the liner height issue. With thermal movement over the years the liners can sink from their normal 3 thou height from the block surface. If they are flat use liner shims to raise them up again as shown in that video on my other reply.

[@Max_Mustermannn]

Is the 6 layer N series gasket thicker compared to the original elastomer gasket?

[@comeinhandynow]

I think I read somewhere that after compressing it is a fraction thicker than the elastomer ones, but the difference is not significant.

[@Max_Mustermannn]

@@comeinhandynow Thanks!

[@waldenhouse]

Small Water droplets & small beads of 'margarine' on dipstick, but no oil in expansion tank. Any ideas?

[@comeinhandynow]

Probably the head gasket needs changing, often the water is at higher pressure than the oil. E.g. Around the oil drain back points in the head, so water can go into the oil first.

[@antonioj.martinezfernandez4878]

Where can you understand the last cylinder head gasket you recommend in the video?

[@comeinhandynow]

If you mean where to buy the N series head gasket, there are several sellers on ebay uk: ebay.to/2XH7f2E

[@zoranstojanovic4255]

Hi.rover 25 1.4 hed gasket what isde is,what side is dawn?

[@comeinhandynow]

It should be obvious looking out how the edges and holes line up. e.g. see time 32:24 in kzbin.info/www/bejne/l37Gm5ZpgdKArJI

[@danbmx69]

what liner hight do you recomend haveing fitting an N series gasket, 3 thousandths of an inch?

[@comeinhandynow]

Probably a good guesstimate but I dont have the data on trials to say what works and what doesn’t. Personally I would use it on anything above 0.

[@unigateman]

Can any one work out roughly out of every 100 cars how many had head gasket failure ?? I have just found an MGF in a barn in France, 1.8. 1998. 40.000 miles. hasn't run for 3 years. I am worried about a possible head gasket failure when starting.

[@comeinhandynow]

Not sure but you can look up the percentage of cars with engine problems for each model on reliabilityindex.com. There are plenty of mgf or mgtf models on eBay, the very cheap ones often with HG issues. Better to get one of those and do a proper job on the HG. I'm tempted myself, looked at a couple recently for around £200.

[@T16MGJ]

Check all the things you'd do with ANY used car like that. Probably very few Head Gaskets actually FAILED, if any. Invariably the vast majority are DAMAGED usually by overheating for whatever reason. Many reasons for that ranging from user neglect or ignorance, poor or no maintenance " Why fix it if it aint broke" mindset involved here far too often. Worn parts or even professional incompetence by those entrusted to the care of a car's ( any car's ) well being. There again, probably I've been merely "lucky" with the two new K-Series Rovers and MGs still in regular family use now seventeen and twenty seven years after purchase new. I know it don't work like that. Ask any AA/RAC rescue Guy. I have a neighbour works for the AA. Far too many car users today never check nuffink and do not even know where their bonnet release lever is in their cars. So NEVER check their car's basics to ensure reliability. Still, ignore all that. Lets blame the poor old Cylinder Head Gasket. Been on BBC and everything so these folks are "professionals" and obviously know what they're on about. No news of the FAKE variety ever to be seen or heard there ... on any topic. Well known fact.. For some.

[@paulrobinson3528]

So it's nearly 4 years since this video was done. have you heard of any failures?? i used to do K series head gaskets all the time , even in my sleep ha ha. I did used the multi layer gasket twice and on both cars it leaked twice, even before i started the engine and both in the same bloody place so refused to fit them ever again, just carried on fitting the original style gasket.

[@comeinhandynow]

That particular one went on for several years. The metal gaskets can be susceptible to weep, especially on non perfect gaskets or surfaces. One gasket had the part number stamped right over the raised edge sealing, which wasn’t great for sealing, but was mostly ok. (Got to be fussy and check that Chinese quality or lack of it). Sometimes the block surfaces get damaged which is the case on one I am doing at the moment. So I’ll run a thin layer of Loctite 574 over the sealing points (not fire ring) before putting the HG on top as I can’t see that doing any harm, only good.

[@paulrobinson3528]

@@comeinhandynow I can't recall a part number been stamp but was quite a few years ago now. It was very rare i had a head skimmed unless the head gasket liner ring had dug into the head. If it was just a slight mark into the head, it did't get skimmed, just cleaned up. A lot of garages just automatically sent them for skimming when they didn't need it and just done the head gasket. They didn't replace the slightly weeping water pump or the inlet manifold gasket that only leaked when it was cold. They didn't pressure tested the system to see if anything else was leaking. That was essential on an MGf/TF. They then wondered why the gasket had blown a few months later. I've never put sealant on head gaskets but have put 2 head gaskets on a Fiat Tipo diesel at the dealers once lol. Clenliness is the key when putting a K series head back on!!

[@comeinhandynow]

@@paulrobinson3528 The item with the part number in the wrong place was an ‘N-series‘ gasket bought from china, the quality of their items needs careful checking. Another I bought recently has a scratch over the sealing layer and the supplier tried to blame it on me, so I now video the opening and inspection of these gaskets in case of any problems.

[@riceralfa1468]

I have 200vi 1.8 wwc 1997 does it fit it sez Rover 25 45

[@comeinhandynow]

I think its the same gasket on all k series 4 cyl.

[@jamesconnors4297]

Link is dead for the head gasket

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks, updated now. ebay.us/IWnZ8V

[@jtothew4201]

On the mgf the failure rate is far more than 5pc

[@alexhill4724]

Its the same to vvc 160?

[@comeinhandynow]

Probably

[@NorthCamZ]

yep thats why I have the mls gasket on mine

[@elainemuir502]

Doesnt the old freelander from the early 2000s have the old k series 1.8.....that car is renowned for head gasket issues.

[@comeinhandynow]

Yep they had a few. Can be made reliable with newer gasket. See my channel for other video on making the k series engine reliable.

[@theheaterguyryan5052]

Why couldnt rover sort out the head gasket simple gasket

[@comeinhandynow]

Landrover/ Rover did eventually make it more reliable. They just should have done it earlier.

[@TheMrPineapple]

@@comeinhandynow in what models? perhaps de 2000+? do you have any source for that info

[@jeffvaljean6030]

The engine that killed Rover MG terrible design that was and is unfixable once they over heat they are dead as ROVER MG found out even lotus ditched it because of its none ending faults

[@comeinhandynow]

No. They can be built to be reliable. Later engines with N series type HG’s were reliable. The engine won a design centre award. It was very advanced for the time using F1 type principles. See this reasonable write up of the good and bad bits of it’s story www.aronline.co.uk/engines/k-series-engine/

[@jeffvaljean6030]

@@comeinhandynow I wish I had your confidence but I've had five mgzts and all of them suffered the same k series engine problems I gave up in the end and bought a toyota space cruiser and its 100 percent reliable even tho its 36 years old