MGB Rack & Pinion part 1

[@paulfanning7059]

Amazing how each 'simple' job expands into a whole basket of other 'simple' jobs!

[@D3Sshooter]

Indeed

[@taunuslunatic404]

That's par for the course.

[@logjam88]

It takes the proper tools, a good lift, and the patience of Job to work on these cars. You have all three.

[@alexcanniccioni7563]

I absolutely love your videos! The production quality is top and you clearly explain your diagnosis reasoning and show us every little steps along the repair process! Giving us plenty of great tips for stuff like undoing a stubborn bolt as things come up. You've become my favourite car mechanic channel by far! Also your channel deserves a ton more views... Coming from a 30 yo millenial that's got his hands full with an old 76 Datsun B210.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thank you for the comments

[@vayabroder729]

Great decision; like with your BMW. Makes sense to do all the work while the car is already disassembled and you won’t have to worry about it again. Great video as always, Steve. Thank you.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thank you

[@dquad]

I recently refurbished the rack and pinion on my KP61 Starlet. I still can't believe how differently the car drives now, the change is somehow subtle but huge.

[@dquad]

I enjoyed watching your struggles with removing this rack. While I was working on my Starlet I was saying to people "1960's British Engineers really need to take a page out of Toyota's book. I bet it would take hours to remove the rack from an MG." With the Toyota, they designed everything to be easily removed. The rack mount bolts under the engine sump are upside down for easy access. The universal joint housings have threaded holes so you don't need a spanner or socket on both ends. And even after 40 years the splines still moved freely and smoothly on the universal joint housings.

[@D3Sshooter]

Indeed, it can make a big difference

[@m.b.smoshitoa8325]

You gave me power Steve, whenever I try to work something unwanted just came up . And when I watch your videos everything goes smooth. Hahaha, you gave me strength when you say not everything goes smooth on videos

[@D3Sshooter]

That is a fact

[@ShaunCymruDS8]

I imagine that when you run into a problem/ more work it’s a double edged sword - that is, yes more unplanned work but it does make great content and makes your collection in better shape! Thanks for sharing Steve.

[@D3Sshooter]

Yes indeed Shaun

[@joelpalmer]

"While were at it, we might as well... entire front undercarriage detail. Well done and well played

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@rosworld9129]

Great video series! This is the exact winter project I’m tackling right now on my MGB roadster (not V8)… cheers

[@billywhizz98]

Another brilliant video Steve ever video you do is a mind of information that makes sense even to people who are not mechanically minded can understand the way you explain and demonstrate the process

[@D3Sshooter]

Thank you William

[@General813]

Hi Steve, nice video, great job. You love what you do and that is really great!!

[@D3Sshooter]

Indeed and thanks

[@bshnabel]

Very informative video, thanks keep up the good work

[@iamrichrocker]

great job as usual Professor..

[@D3Sshooter]

Thank you

[@windmill1965]

This video is a great example of "project creep".

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, indeed and for me I see that daily at work

[@David-wy9jl]

When you were moving the wheel to make the noise, it actually looks like the noise is coming from the front hub and not the steering rack. It's almost like the hub bearings are too loose or improperly shimmed. The front hub has a lot of free play. Good tip on removing the ball joints.

[@D3Sshooter]

yes , but I did check that ... you really need to feel and be close to sense it... In fact I also had a MOT remark on the steering.

[@klausp7035]

your videos are great and very learning

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments,

[@tanyramos8045]

Just another amazing video.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thank you

[@bloodreighn]

Ive had one tie rod end so stuck in the upright that it broke my tie rod splitter just liek that, on a mini too! I ended up with a large long brass rod on the end of the upright and a big heavy mallet to bash it loose, ball joints are not fun sometimes!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments and indeed , that does happen

[@richardporter6201]

Hurrah, back on my favorite car!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@brianparkinson1594]

Love the graphics as well as the content!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thank you

[@Tim-57]

Thank you Steve

[@tedohio3038]

Nice series thanks

[@D3Sshooter]

Thank you

[@melvinalfredo20]

Very informative video...

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments,

[@brentnearhood8874]

I would be interested to know if the rack and pinion was bad or if the inner tie-rod ends were loose.

[@D3Sshooter]

That will be in part 2

[@nitrojunki4249]

Very nice explanation on removing the rack and pinion. I never knew there were two different style suspensions. I would love to have your style as I’m not fond of the dampers. Where are you located If you don’t mind my asking.

[@ipanemabeach2266]

Excellent job!

[@e_m_met]

An interesting video as always. It's great to see your methodical way of finding and fixing faults. The camera work and lighting give a really clear picture of exactly what it is you are doing. I often toy with buying an older car (maybe an old Dolomite Sprint) so seeing your work on this generation of cars gives me something of an insight as to what work I might expect to have to do on a 50-year-old car. Oh and I'm really looking forward to the next "Old Rust" update. On another note, I'm not sure if you want criticisms/corrections from random viewers so feel free to ignore me...I believe you are miss pronouncing the phrase "without further ado". It sounds like you are saying "without further adieu" or "without further a due". Perhaps you can help me with pronunciation too. In Britain, we say 'chassis' with the 'ch' pronounced as 'sh' as in ship. The Americans pronounce it as 'ch' as in chip. I always thought the British were pronouncing it the French way (hence we did not pronounce the last 's'). However, I have heard you (a fluent French speaker) pronounce it the American way. Do the French-speaking nations normally pronounce it with a "ch" or "sh"? Anyway, regardless of insignificant pronunciation queries, keep up the good work!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, wow a dolomite sprint... that is what I used to have when I was 20 ( 1981).. That is a great car , I had mine modified so the overdrive would work on all gears. The engine , well that was great but always work... but a 24 valve was not that common at the time and it was fast

[@americanpatriot2422]

Great video!

[@aussieboganbloke2244]

Perfect timing... Im doing my rack amd pinion boots my self aha

[@D3Sshooter]

Good luck and enjoy the work Aussie

[@SamanPerera]

Very informative. Thank you.

[@neilshovlin9888]

Asking for your help: I’ve got a ‘73 MGB with 2 SU (HIF4) carbs… At startup, choke-on, underneath the rear Skinner Union are fumes coming off the exhaust pipe- I’m thinking it’s a gas leak from the carb to the hot pipe? But, when the choke is off, no fumes. When running, no fumes. At idle after a drive, no fumes. Can the choke-on at startup cause my SUs to leak? Thank you, Neil Shovlin a Subscriber.

[@mohabatkhanmalak1161]

With the subframe out you will definately need that mug of hot chocolate drink! But its good to iron out any issues at this stage when you have easy access. Does this MG rack have a 'dead center' hole where you can insert a pin, old drill to fix its center.

[@D3Sshooter]

I have not seen that or aware if it ... it would be great if it did

[@mohabatkhanmalak1161]

@@D3Sshooter There should be one, I read in one of my car manuals about this. I don't remember which car but I will have a look at some other manuals I have. Yes, I found it. It is there on the rack of the 1959-69 year Mini, Haynes page 239. MG is affiliated to Austin, Morris, so it would have one with a plug to cover it. I couldn't find this hole in a 1973-79 Honda Civic though.

[@mohabatkhanmalak1161]

@@D3Sshooter Thinking again of the Honda Civic, I think a rack of that car you would centralize that rack by measuring equal distance of the tie rod, before installing. This would make centralizing of the steering wheel, and the wheel alignment very easy. Cheers!

[@D3Sshooter]

​@@mohabatkhanmalak1161 Thanks , I don't think that this applies here .. But will have a close look

[@stevefoster7603]

I would like to see more of that gt it's bad.

[@stevenserabian7366]

Any thoughts on how best to remove the shaft that goes to the steering rack from the u-joint? I have removed the associated bolt, spread the u-joint, and applied penetrating oil and heat to no avail. How did you get yours to just pull out? Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply.

[@PhG1961]

An "expected quick job"..... tiens tiens, waar heb ik dat nog gehoord... ;-)

[@mikepaton3614]

I have refurbished full front suspension on 72 mgb gt. However when i Install it all back together I have 2 turns on steering wheel to the left and 1 and a half turns to the right. Should the steering rack be installed into the housing with an offset? I have taken steering wheel off and centered it. And have eyeballed the wheel alignment, not done a full alignment yet. Have i installed rack incorrectly into housing.

[@markbehr88]

Any idea when we will see Old Rusty again?

[@rickden8362]

What happened to the Formel Koneg? An MGB rack? Is the Koneg getting to difficult?

[@mikakolari3201]

Are those headers in good shape?

[@waynevietnam]

"Without any further adieu?" What are you doing speaking so fluently?

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks , Nothing really .... just picking up what you folks tell me

[@hado-atlanta]

awesome

[@rompdude]

I was looking at the pulley and thinking, that looks like a rover v8 pulley, but didn't think much of it. cut to the top of the engine... I was right!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments , indeed

[@ricardogabbiani7816]

Things never go easy belt it in side put nut on and wood it off lol