Flash Duration over HSS?

[@wbcvisions7489]

Always learning new tips from you brother. I’ll definitely try this out tonight during the end of my photoshoot!

[@MattHernandez]

Glad I could help! Hope it works out!

[@patrickvaughn9961]

Thank you, thank you it's about time. Someone made a video showing how this system works. I have been looking and I have not found anyone except this video or tutorial now I understand so thank you very much.

[@MattHernandez]

I’m glad you found mine then! Thank you for watching and the feedback. I actually did another video comparing HSS and flash duration a little more directly using both in the same shoot about 2 years ago too. Here’s the link if you’re interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZu8l36nqcSNZq8

[@isoawe1888]

Thanks again Matt. Boy, I love that the trigger tilts. Wish Godox would do that.

[@MattHernandez]

You need to switch 😂

[@ampedbusinesssportsmedia]

Thanks Matt. Definitely would like to see high speed continuous.

[@MattHernandez]

Noted! Thanks for watching and the feedback!

[@MichaelRoachWV]

The easiest way I’ve found to explain freezing motion with flash duration is to give yourself a black frame with the ambient FIRST (minus stationary things like ceiling lights). Then, you know all the light hitting the scene is from flash, and it will all be at your flash duration. Your flash is now your effective shutter speed.

[@dave_sports_photos]

Things get more complicated when you want to incorporate the background as Matt was discussing. Then you need to ensure that the strobe is hitting the subject.

[@MichaelRoachWV]

@@dave_sports_photos I was meaning explaining the base concept of flash as shutter speed. Just thoughts for how to phrase / explain it to those getting started with flash.

[@mikebartow9415]

Thanks Matt! Question: would a two light setup, both just on the edge of center expand the field of the light and eliminate the ghosting? Would you be able to increase the f-stop to increase the depth of field? A high speed continuous would be an interesting video.

[@MattHernandez]

In this type of shot that wouldn’t work because it would be in it. They have to be far enough back to be out of frame. Depth of field sliding matter either that doesn’t have anything to do with the ghosting. That part of her body was probably moving too fast to freeze without all of the light on it. I’ll probably make one. Thanks for the feedback!

[@terrysimpson2798]

Yes! HSS/Continuous video 🙌

[@MattHernandez]

Ok I’ll see what I can do! Thanks for the feedback!

[@TrevorMcGrathPhotography]

Hi Matt, Interesting video. Can you clarify if the reading on the strobe says T5? I think the very small amount of ghosting you were talking about in the jump shot was there because too much ambient light was still visible.

[@MattHernandez]

Gynn has to do with the fall off. Yes, it is T5. There are new strobes can show either T1 or T5.

[@TrevorMcGrathPhotography]

@@MattHernandez Thanks for the reply. Firstly, I love your videos on Dramatic portraits and backgrounds, particularly posing and camera positioning. Returning to flash duration, taking a reading from the T5 value can lead you astray. The t0.5 value measures the time it takes for the flash to reach full power and then reduce to 50% power. The t0.1 value, on the other hand, measures the time it takes to reach full power and then drops to 10% power. Although many manufacturers show the t0.5 reading, the t0.1 reading is actually the most important because it accounts for nearly all of the whole flash burst, rather than just the brightest part of the flash.

[@dave_sports_photos]

Hi Matt. I have an FJ400, so I appreciate the tutorial about the freeze mode - thank-you. I'm still not clear about why HSS is not a good choice indoors.Is it simple because of using excessive battery power? Or does freeze mode yield better results? (Also, at 11:46 do you mean freeze mode rather than HSS? I'm hoping that was just an error on your part! Otherwise, I'm definitely lost!).

[@MattHernandez]

1) it saves battery power because you don’t get the full power when using HSS 2) the frame will be more even as far as where the light hits. HSS causes one side to be slightly darker No I meant HSS at 11:46. I’m explaining why I DIDNT use HSS there and what the benefit to freeze mode was: because the frame is more even. I was talking about the cameras max sync speed for flash which shouldn’t have banding because you’re not in HSS yet, but on my camera at 1/250 s there is still a little bit of banding on one side similar to if I were in HSS. That doesn’t happen when I go down to 1/200 however. That’s what was talking about.

[@dave_sports_photos]

​@@MattHernandezthank you for taking the time to reply, I appreciate it.

[@billchiles7734]

Matt, have you played with your A9iii for this work much? I shoot inside or outside at 1/8000+ with very little flash power. I would love to see more cameras go to global shutter, it is very liberating to not have to worry about HSS or ND filters.

[@MattHernandez]

I haven’t yet no but that’s a great idea! I love my a9iii but I use my A7RV a lot more for portraits because of the bigger image size.

[@billchiles7734]

@@MattHernandez Like you, I still have my A7RV, but I use them now just for my volume work. I've switched to the A9iii for my portraits and weddings. It has changed the way I shoot though. I shoot going wide, medium and tight, where before I could just crop in with my A7RV.

[@dave_sports_photos]

Also, could you tell me what the effect of going into freeze mode is in real terms? In other word , if I was at power 5 in freeze mode and I get a T time of, for argument's sake, 1/6000. How would that compare with the T time if I was at power 5 in normal mode?

[@MattHernandez]

Great question! I don’t know the answer to each specific power setting unfortunately. But I’m sure if you called westcott customer service or emailed them they would be able to tell you! I can promise you it’s a big enough difference to matter if you’re freezing action.

[@dave_sports_photos]

@@MattHernandez I contacted them and got a really good reply. Here is part of that reply "Here are some real specs, all at 2 meters: With the FJ400 At power level 4 in normal mode, the flash duration is 1/5,290 of a second. In Freeze mode, the flash duration is 1/16,500 of a second. That is more than double. In contrast, power level 8 in normal mode is 1/736 and in freeze mode is 1/1420. A little less and double".

[@patfeher6655]

Any idea why my A9iii is still requiring my trigger to be on high speed sync to shoot high shutter speeds

[@MattHernandez]

No I don’t…is all your firmware updated on the strobes, remote and camera? I don’t even know if mine switches or not when I go over 1/400. I need to look at make sure. Thanks for the feedback!

[@patfeher6655]

@MattHernandez yea everything is up to date. I try to raise shutter and stops unless I turn high speed sync on. I use all westcott gear.

[@MattHernandez]

@@patfeher6655 Have you checked out the Westcott a9iii Field Guide? There are several things you need to make sure you do in order for the camera to work correctly and work without using HSS. Here’s the URL so you can check it out. Let me know if this solves the problem! help.fjwestcott.com/en-US/field-guide-fj-wireless-flash-sony-a9-iii-compatibility-settings-637306

[@alexg0742]

I would love to see the power with 15 fps not only with westcott but with godox as well. I know probably won't happen though. 😢

[@MattHernandez]

I don’t have any Godox lights but I can try that with the FJs!

[@johnwilkinson9194]

If you put your FJ400 power at about half (4-5), you’ll get around half a dozen pops before it will start to miss.

[@MailmanJustin]

So if I understand this correctly, you're not adjusting the speed of the flash to use with the desired power. You're adjusting the power to get the appropriate shutter speed substitute and managing the other settings according to get the best result. Did that make sense to other people or did I just word vomit? If it did was it correct? 😂🤷🏽‍♂️

[@MattHernandez]

I think you got it yes! Adjust the power to make sure the t5 number is fast enough to freeze what you’re doing. Then adjust your camera settings as needed.

[@MailmanJustin]

@MattHernandez I'm using Godox flashes, and they refer to it as a T.1 number. They describe in their manual that the difference in the two just being how the bell curve is measured. There is no setting to turn it "on," but the T.1 number is displayed when the flash is in manual mode. I plan on doing some experimenting to see how images come out with slower camera shutter speeds. Thanks for the great videos!

[@MichaelRoachWV]

Also, no one will EVER notice your tiny bit of ambient motion. When doing rear-curtain sync for wedding dancing photos, basically in-camera double-exposure, you lower your shutter and move the camera so you get a frozen person with blurred background lights.

[@MattHernandez]

Thanks for all the feedback! I’m very familiar with that I do it all the time! Using a Shutter Drag with Rear Curtain Sync kzbin.info/www/bejne/faW4kHuVe8ufY7s

[@MichaelRoachWV]

@@MattHernandez yep, same technique just in a different setting. In a reception, you can make light trails from the ceiling / reception / decoration lights

[@jay10242]

C' mon. At least 15 minutes nonsense. Write a script next time. Thanks.

[@MattHernandez]

There is no script. Non of that was nonsense I felt it all needed to be said. I like to be thorough.