Miata Weightloss (FM Live)

[@maxcactus7]

The best power to weight ratio increase I made to my Miata was dropping 30 lbs off the nut between the steering wheel and the driver's seat.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

That's a good place to start!

[@aaronmorgan2475]

Whoosh! Went right over my head ;)

[@xxxmaximizerxxx2292]

I think a lot of people also forget one of the best weight savings can start in the gym.

[@mitchellsteindler]

True! Although I'll advise thay diet is a much more effective means of weightloss (and only weightloss).

[@melangeken]

The rust is an automatic weight reduction that shaves off some weight every year.

[@alex_share92]

when iron is rusted, it's weight increases. Reason : Iron(Fe) is oxidised to Fe2O3 I.e. ferric oxide , which is generally known as rust. Here iron combines with Oxygen, therefore it increases weight.

[@melangeken]

@@alex_share92 It depends on how severe the rust is, if it's rusted away to the point you have holes I'm pretty sure that would be lighter than adding a couple of oxygen molecules. 😁 But thanks for the insight I learned something new.

[@K03sport]

...just about every car in Ohio is on that weight reduction philosophy, especially domestic brands over 5 years old...

[@LARSENBISQUITS]

This video motivated me to get up early this morning and shave some weight off my NB. 1.5 hours later and I removed 30.2 lbs. and you can’t tell I did anything. Amazing him much little stuff adds up to when you combine it all.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Glad we could help inspire you!

[@nosefirst]

The "passenger delete" option works rather well for my ND.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

HAHAHA! Obviously! :P

[@johnzimmerman1072]

Ejecto seto cuz

[@MrGSzakal]

Hello All I have been lightening street cars for years and have generally found that when you are purchasing lightweight components (once you have removed the easy stuff) that I am looking at about $100.00/Lb so if you can buy something that falls into a lower ratio than this you are doing well. Unmentioned in the video is lightweight flywheels. Most people know them for reducing rotating mass and increasing acceleration (especially in the lower gears) but if you are buying one that is 5 lbs lighter that comes off the gross weight too. I didn't find out the weight savings of the FM lightened one but having driven many cars with lightened flywheels, I love them. For around 300.00 if it shaves off 3 or more lbs it is a great deal when you add in the other benefits. Not affiliated to FM, just a fan. Jerry

[@MrGSzakal]

Some considerations that affect lightened component choices; Weight reduction (of course) Hight above CofG (Center of Gravity) Distance from CofG (polar moment) Drivers side preferred Cost (Dollars per Pound) A fairly expensive mod ($975 USD) that has other benefits for an NA is to install a Jetstream headlight conversion. Even factoring in the addition of Hydraulic hood lifts (the hood rod attaches to the pop up headlight assemblies) and a new overflow tank and relocation bracket. Weighing all items coming out and going in it removed 15 lbs. from fairly high up and maximum distance from the CofG. Without going into the math this would remove about 18 lbs. from the from wheels and move about 3 lbs. to the rear. This also allows my/you to run with headlights on all the time without the huge drag of popup headlights.

[@nolahahnshouse3389]

Was just talking with a fellow miata owner and if it makes a huge difference which it does depending on the situation

[@andrebaudoind]

Glad to see content from this channel either way

[@clubtouge1052]

one thing to add for a track car on the aftermarket seats , if you run only harnesses you can get away with cutting the seat belt tower off for about another 10 pounds, but not really reversible lol

[@TheMapleDaily]

BBS is not hard to find, their for sale always. I have both 2 sets of 14s and 2 sets of 15s. Alex Todd has over 5 sets - Rare and Vintage Miata Parts. I paid 700 with brand new tires and all caps for 15s, and only 300 for the 14s with caps. Anything more expensive just go buy RPF1s. Weighing my 15s, their about 11.6-11.7 ibs

[@HansDerninger]

Good tutorial, thanks! I believe perspective had been valuable, e.g. for the ND, what is the weight OEM vs. the Global MX-5 Cup car by Flis Performance? The difference is the potential weight saving 101.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Great comparison!

[@robertpratte3639]

One that I've done is to swap out a lot of hardware (nuts, bolts, etc.) for titanium. Expensive, but adds up quickly.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Good idea! :)

[@KekusMagnus]

and you can have piece of mind that they won't rust beyond recognition and shear off when you try to remove them like half the bolts on my goddamn rustbucket

[@nobodynoone2500]

@@KekusMagnus Ti can gall.

[@pest2133]

Gym membership started to look like good value real fast

[@Cletus9]

I have a rb header on my 90. I tore out the carpet awhile back because it was nasty. Drive on a hot day for awhile and your throttle foot gets REALLY hot. Maybe some dei tape around that area lol

[@jacobduncil4702]

I will now go take the intake brace off. And not for the weight savings. I will remove it because I always fight around it when changing the oil filter lol.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Convenience and easier oil changes is a great reason! :)

[@merroika1050]

I've bought a crazy light shido battery that weighs only 4 pounds !

[@nissan_motors4934]

I was always told never to get in the back of a van, even if they’re is candy

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Stranger Danger!

[@johnzimmerman1072]

I want to see a tube chassis kit that will fit all Miata panels. Stock look, stupid lightweight

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

That’s called a tube frame Miata. Figure it’ll save about 500 lbs or so.

[@tedstriker754]

The tubular exhaust manifold is good. But forget headers, they're junk. They aren't insulated with heat shields and make the transmission tunnel get really hot. Especially on longer drives. I used a recipro saw to cut them out on my NB. Was so glad to dump them in the trash. They start off as shiney chrome, but they soon get really ugly with rust spots.

[@DarR1299]

Lithium Ion battery. 20+ lbs savings right there.

[@olddirtycracker]

I'm 50 lbs overweight. What's the car parts value of my fat?

[@ronbyrd1616]

I removed my windshield washer fluid, container, pump, bracket and bolts for about 7 1/2 lbs removed. I never use it, and clean my windows at gas up or occasionally in my garage.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Great for weight savings, not convenient for road trips ;)

[@scottersandman6408]

14" wheels don't fit 2001 on up with sport brakes....not sure about NC or ND (don't own)

[@nobodynoone2500]

Some ND can run 15"s I hear, I know 16"s fit.

[@SteffenHansen1973]

Brilliant. Thank you for this!. Q: The battery - how low can you safely go, amp wise, without having to keep it on a charger every time the car is stationary and not having to worry about getting home from that 1500 km Nürburgring round trip?.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Since there are quite a few options, would you mind sending this directly to our customer support team? They would be happy to help you out with our recommendations based on our experiences. Drop them an email at [e-mail] and use URGENT in the subject for a faster response. Thanks!

[@Seabass20329]

I used to work in a battery shop so I got to test this pretty extensively. FM correct me if I'm wrong: Where I live in WV it regularly gets below freezing in the winter, and I found that the smallest amp rating I was comfortable going with was a 300cca rated agm motorcycle battery (agm being an important modifier here because they hold up a lot better in cold weather compared to a wet cell battery). I mention the location and temperature because that's really what ends up being the limiting factor. Batteries are rated in "cold cranking amps" because that's what they should be able to output at freezing temps if the battery's in healthy condition, but on a 70F day a 300cca battery is probably outputting closer to 450+ amps. In my experience, in the dead of winter a 300cca agm battery consistently had enough power to start my car every morning. I did try to go to the next smallest battery available and it did kinda work, but on super cold days it would strain to start the car, so I settled on the 300cca as a reliable solution. If I lived somewhere warm and sunny year round I would probably go with a 200cca or even smaller. As far as needing to keep the car on a charger every time it's stationary, if you're having to do that then there's some kind of electric drain in the car and that problem will persist no matter what size battery you install. Hope this all helps, sorry for the long comment

[@Cletus9]

Ive been running a light lawn and garden battery from walmart for years. 230amps or so. Stock battery is around 326 amps. No issues with leaving radio on for 10 mins or so with key on. And i live in a cold climate. Battery is also 30$ or so lol

[@SteffenHansen1973]

@@Seabass20329 Third time's the charm I hope - I've replied to this twice before but it looks like the KZbin AI doesn't like my comment. Thank you so much for taking your time to write such a thourough response. Much appreciated. Some stuff I should've mentioned: Cold starts will not be a concern. This is only a toy so starting in anything less than 15 degree Celsius will (probably) not happen. The "Hook up the charger as soon as stationary" was mostly a tongue in cheek comment. It's stripped of everything electrickery not needed (and has a master switch in the trunk as well) As I read your comment, you're saying I can get away with something like the Varta Powersports 518 902 026 (this is where I'd put the link to the specs previously but I suspect that's what causes the comment to be deleted) without having to to worry about the battery. Maybe even a bit smaller if I'm feeling adventurous?. Again - thank you so much for your comment.

[@Seabass20329]

@@SteffenHansen1973 No problem! Working in this store I ended up with a ton of almost useless battery knowledge, if it can help someone out I'm happy to share. Weird that your comment kept getting deleted but at least it worked this time lol. That Varta battery seems like it's right in the amp range that I was talking about which is good, but the only reason I'd recommend something different is that it's physically bigger and heavier than it needs to be and if weight savings is the whole idea, you'd of course want to go with the lightest option. For similar money I would go with either a Deka ETX-12 or a Deka ETX-14L. The 12 is a 180cca and the 14 is a 220cca, with the 14 weighing probably 4ish pounds more, whereas the Varta battery you mentioned probably weighs around 8 pounds more than the ETX-14L. All weights I'm mentioning are approximate, but the store I worked at carried all of these and I got very familiar with their relative weights from picking them up and moving them around all the time. I would also say Deka makes a superior battery in general; the way that their terminals are welded on to the actual battery plates inside the casing is like 3 times thicker than other brands, it makes them way more resiliant to getting tossed around (like seeing heavy G's in the trunk of a miata :P). Deka's also needed the fewest warranty claims out of all the brands we carried, they became our top tier brand and what we would recommend to everyone. Oh and also, with any motorcycle battery being used in a car, you need some way to adapt the motorcycle styler terminals to your automotive terminals. Lots of brands sell adapters that screw on to the motorcycle battery and let you connect your terminals like normal, or you could swap out your regular terminals for a couple of ring terminals and not have to worry about adapters at all, both options should cost like $5 either way. Cool to hear that this is for a dedicated toy and not a daily driver, you could definitely get away with a really small battery compared to stock. I might still recommend hooking it up to a battery tender if it's sitting for a month or more in between uses, my previous thing about "if it dies unless it's on a charger than there must be an electric drain!" was assuming it was being driven daily, but it's always a good idea to have a tender hooked up to stuff that only gets driven occasionally.

[@merlyn2121]

I've added so much weight with braces. Ugh.

[@pest2133]

I bought almost stock na and it only had front splitter, skirts and fiber class trunk lid

[@AverageJoe84]

Went to remove my intake manifold bracket and the back and forth arguments about it on the net scared me away. Throttle body Butterfly bolts backing out and intake manifold bolts breaking, etc. I think if you guys remove them I can probably ignore all the other theories. 3 bolts coming out tomorrow 😂

[@tedfoureagles2778]

I removed mine ~34 years and 300,000 miles back. So far, so good.

[@KekusMagnus]

gun-drilling control arm bolts?? jesus christ that's borderline suicidal lmfao

[@nobodynoone2500]

Most of the strength is in the surface and those control arms are in double-shear so less worry

[@K03sport]

It doesn't help that I had 600 liquid calories today, and that was just today, not any other day. ☕ Each time you say "miata/mx-5", I'm just going to substitute in "WRX".

[@joekawasaki]

Where is the cat on the NB2 manifold? How far would you have to change the exhaust to make it work for a California car?

[@darren429858]

What about the radio and speakers? I have an NB with the Bose system, anyone know the weight on that?

[@stephanegenest6793]

What about the gaz tank for a cell thank !?

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

@stephanegenest6793 Fuel cells are really only going to be useful for Miatas that spend most of their time on a track - they can be a headache for street cars.

[@hausmeisterengineering5952]

can someone add up the weight savings that he talked about? im lazy

[@kumakaroshi117]

No such thing as left over candy. Just candy that needs to be eaten.

[@mustachemel7410]

Would love to see the link for the targa Miata

[@Moneyandfood]

How about a CF propeller/drive shaft?

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Not really worth it unless you have a race car looking to save every oz you can.

[@bartolomehus]

How about changing the stock radiator on nb1 to an alloy aftermarket?

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Changing your aging plastic radiator to a cross-flow aluminum radiator may not save you much weight, but is definitely a good idea anyway!

[@flyingsloth2606]

when will the stage one kits be back in stock for nb’s?

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

So sorry for the delays! We've had some supply issues with certain kit components, but we are working hard to get those back in stock asap! Please contact our customer support department directly for more details or a specific ETA. Thank you!

[@vlenhoff]

Sorry if i missed it, but you didn't mention two piece rotors. Also, is there Wilwood calipers for the stock rotors on the NC? I've looked around, but i can't find any.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Our "Little big Brake Kit" for the NC uses the stock rotors. Please give us a call if you have any questions or need help with the kit options! www.flyinmiata.com/NC/nc-little-big-brake-kit.html Our customer support team would be happy to help. Call 970-464-5600 M-F 8-5 Mountain time, or drop them an email at [e-mail]. Thanks!

[@vlenhoff]

@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks for the link! I do know the lil' brake kit has larger rear rotors, but my question was about stock sized two piece rotors to use with the stock caliper set up. Thanks in advance.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

@@vlenhoff Gotcha, sorry about misunderstanding that. Your best bet is to give our customer support team a call (or email) directly. They can give you more info on options and point you in the right direction.

[@vlenhoff]

@@FlyinMiataVideo No worries/sorries, I really appreciate your reply. Thanks, I will give them a call.

[@robertkliffel3467]

I was told power windows for NB are lighter than manual crank?

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Not from what we've seen. It's not a big penalty, but the manual windows are slightly lighter even before you take the wiring into consideration.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=140710

[@andrebaudoind]

Ima finna leave these chewing noises triggering me

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

LOL So sorry about that!

[@JO.Racing]

I was hoping to find a new way to save weight off my kmiata but every suggestion in this video was amateur hour.

[@FlyinMiataVideo]

Sorry you didn't find anything helpful. This video was basic information for people who don't know where to start. We weren't trying to cater to hard core racers or people looking to build an ultra-light track car.

[@JO.Racing]

@@FlyinMiataVideo thanks for the reply, 98% of the rest of your videos are useful, I was just hoping to find something I haven’t thought of but it just never came up. I have a 1963 LBS Kmiata with a full cage, 6 gallons of gas, carbon/fiberglass in all the body panels, its about as extreme as you can get with a Miata build

[@Grumpini]

My misophonia prevents me from watching past the first 10 seconds.

[@Helios1733]

I am sorry but I can't spend all this time waiting for your lecture starts actually... Straight to the point topic is too far and mixed with too much general statement where we are loosing our way... I love Flying'Miata but I am not fan of your videos

[@AverageJoe84]

Thats what the drag feature is for. Fast foward or rewind. Lets see your video

[@kevinhuang888]

​@@AverageJoe84 Especially when most of the things he said are pretty useful. Great video overall.