Any plan on having a flat center cap option for the Kogeki? Like the one on the Tobu 🤞🏽

Thanks FM for supporting the Miata community.

Whats the weight of 17x8s

Konig Ampiform?

Diverge design ;)

Can the Satin Bronze be had with a brushed aluminium rim?

How about painted silver?

What is the weight of these wheels ie 17 x 8, 17 x 9 weight comparison to forged wheels

How about silver valve stems to go with deep silver?

What about weight comparison vs original NC wheels or alternative popular NC Miata wheels? Also how about shipping to Europe? (it's very frustrating to follow your youtube channel, looking to all these great Miata products on your web site from EU) :D

That new bronze is sick looking.

Bronze looks amaaazing on red NAs! Unfortunately i got RPF1s (even if they are light and nice!) before i knew about you guys and now im limited in what brakes i can buy, but i suppose i will live and learn

I really wish i could afford one again

I had the best time building a winter track in a parking lot

The original bronze looks more titanium when the new bronze is sat next to it

More car reviews please

Hi Keith, I'd like to put the special active shocks on my NC. Do you have an idea when they will arrive?

Very helpful video, alrhough slightly different to the NC, it helped me quite a lot when stripping down my NC rear calipers. Could you do a video for NC as there doesn't seem to be anywhere as many vids for NC as there are for NA and NB.

Could you show what is behind the second large internal circlip. Is there a seal to replace?

Got a 1999 NB, what would you recommend size wise for my rear rims to just Flush to the fender w/o rubbing and the Tires. My vision is to make it look like ‘Starsky n Hutch’. ( Yes I’m that Old lol) Thanks

Love the new bronze, I wish my gold Enkei RPF-1’ were that color. Too bad he didn’t talk about the offset and weight. FM puts out some good quality parts.

like like, me need nc3 turbo asap, zoom zoom

Will there be a deep silver for the 15x9's? It's not currently listed on the website & would love to grab a set eventually.

Resurrecting an old video here. If you had a new ND1 RF GT, and were on a budget. Would you do Shocks & Springs, or an LSD first?

Are you going to bring back the 17x9 for the NC?

YES!!! That was the bronze I've been waiting for!!! Definitely getting a set ASAP!!!

Finally!! That’s the Bronze I like. Thank you!!

16 inch for NB SE

Will you ever have a 16 inch for the NB SE ?

What color would look best on a white 19 RF?

Great looking wheel. I may hit y’all up for a set when I’m ready!

Whats the 17x8 weight

I would love to see them near a tan top.

YAAAAAASSSS!!! I've wanted a "bronzier bronze" on these since I first saw them, and this is a very nice bronze. Unfortunately, what this means is that I definitely gotta move forward with the blue respray 🤣

Thank you Thank you Thank you! This will look amazing on my Emerald Green NB! Will your new wheel design come in the same color?

Great video….. What motor oil viscosity do you recommend for street only cars? Manual recommends 0w20 or 5w30 and I want maximum protection not mpg. Thanks

My wife was listening and gave me hell for watching a video dealing with 'trimming carpet'.

You should make content for every car to have a larger audience

Is it possible to purchase the print file? I would like to print this in the color of my interior with a different filament.

Does this prevent speed loss?

I just replaced my rear wheel bearings on my NA and the axle nut took a 5 foot pipe on a breaker bar and a lot of heat to remove it so when you said it is stuck, steaked I laughed.

But salt...

Well you're a bit mixed up in your descriptions of HP and TQ. You got torque correct and I'd add think of toque as twisting force like a torque wrench produces. A strain gauge measures the force of the absorber to rotate as the engine is being tested on a dyno. Same principal for a chassis or wheel dyno. Think of HP as putting a time frame on torque. Simplified to how much force (work) can be produced over a given time frame, ie: RP[M]. Most modern engines produce peak torque at an RPM lower than peak HP. At peak HP, there's normally less torque than at peak. That's because of the time element involved in the HP formula you gave, TQ X RPM / 5252. Simplified analogy: A contest where you have to move a pallet of bricks totaling 1000lbs, 20 yards from where it sets. You will be timed against your opponent. Quickest time wins. You grab 50lbs of bricks and sprint back and forth from the pallet to the drop spot. Your time to move all 1000lbs is 10 min. The opponent is a big strong stocky looking guy with a big belly. He grabs 150lbs of bricks and slowly jogs back and forth. His time is 10min 30 seconds. Even though the big guy was stronger (more TORQUE) he was slower. You weren't as strong but way faster. (more HP). You won because you produced an equal amount of work in less time (more HP). The ability to maintain speed on a grade is more torque related. More torque is good here. The ability to accelerate or have more top speed is HP related. More HP is good here. Big diesel trucks don't accelerate fast, even though they have 700 LBS/FT of torque. They're pretty SLOW at acceleration. Don't confuse big torque numbers with good street driving. It's responsiveness at low RPM with small throttle opening that determine street driving quality. The low RPM torque availability, shape of the torque curve, and tune is more important that torque at full throttle. The shape of the torque curve can have a big influence in the "overall feel of power". I think that's what you were trying to convey discussing torque and HP in the beginning. Sounds like you know this stuff, just didn't do real well explaining it in the beginning. A 62yo retired professional engine builder, machinist, drag racer thinking about the fun factor of building/driving a budget street turbo miata!

Would you pick the 21 or 22 inch tires on 2025 Cayenne ehybrid turbo and why? It is mainly a daily driver and wanting to know if you can actually feel any difference in comfort and handling or will it be negligible?

Would you recommend manual(foot pedal), vacuum, or pressurized bleeding?

FM - thanks for the video! I need some help though. I purchased the FM bars and Racing Beat end links for my 1994 NA8. With the car on the ground and no pre-load on the bars, I can only get the end links to connect to the ‘hardest’ position on the front bar (the hole closest to the front of the bar) and the middle hole on the rear bar. I was really under the impression that with after market end links I would be able to get to all adjustment positions on both bars. Is this typical? Am I doing something wrong? Do I need different end links?

Hello, how often do you have to squeeze lubricant for the bushongs after installation?

Do you have better wind deflector than what Mazda has?

Hi Mike I’m lucky to own a 2010 nc2 PRHT with only 60k KMS here in Perth Western Australia. My mods are 1 seat lowering brackets 2 Cypher steering wheel ( bought from yourselves) 3 stiffer door bushings 4 some lovely red & black floor mats ( hand made here in Australia) & I lowered the clutch pedal by about an inch . ( had to adjust the two switches on the pedal ) using a scanner as it bought some warning lights on . Questions (2) if anyone can help ! When I lower the PRHT the fm radio reception is terrible ( would your stubby antenna help ? ) & can’t get a definitive answer on how to check the drain holes on this model . Best wishes Simon .

This looks terrible and looks like something a random facebook seller would try to peddle to a miata group. It just looks so unprofessional especially for $35. Injection mold it or don't sell it at all.