Every Fuel Saving Tip in 12 Minutes

[@MickDrivesCars]

Thank you @OBDeleven-Official for sponsoring this video! Use code "MICK" to get 10% off at go.obdeleven.com/MICK Check out cars supported by OBDeleven and its features here: obdeleven.com/features #obdeleven #automotive #carcare

[@Justgreen89925]

The most efficient way to use AC is to have it off at slow speeds (like less than 40mph) with the windows down and then turn it on when the resistance created by the windows rolled down would exceed the AC losses

[@bimmerbitch]

Your cars aerodynamics suffer with the windows down hurting fuel economy at all times. Running the AC 100% of the time with windows shut is more efficient than windows down.

[@TimpBizkit]

Put your AC on full blast when driving downhill in gear, then turn it off at the end of the hill.

[@Justgreen89925]

@@TimpBizkit This works too i guess 😅

[@gabrielg1749]

Coasting in neutral uses more gas than coasting in gear. This is because in neutral the car needs to use gas to stop the engine from stalling. In gear the momentum from the wheels keeps the engine turning, engine braking is minimal at low rpm.

[@Smrda1312]

Unless you are driving a carburated engine

[@годгев]

not correct. the engine uses just enough fuel to keep it running, its pretty low. See a clip of a moped with a temporary transparent engine head- when at idle the explosions barely flash. yes, when engine breaking theres no fuel used, but when a short downhill is coming, i shift to neutral to go 80-84 kmh and not engine break from 80-76 kmh lets say. The difference is 5 grams of petrol and almost 10 kmh. In the shown example riding in neutral and maintaing speed is much more efficient than accelerating

[@kamilbuniowski4193]

Dude u have 0 control on neutral, thats dangerous and stupid

[@TimpBizkit]

But coasting in gear uses gas to keep re-accelerating the car more often than coasting in neutral, even though you aren't using any fuel for the moment you are coasting in gear. If you are going to stay in gear, you may as well use constant throttle or constant speed if the road is a bit uphill/downhill, so that your average wind resistance is less and your average throttle opening is more consistent.

[@honzaspetla5523]

Coasting is more eficient when short downhill is coming because energy you store by speeding up your car is greater > than energy you save by keeping your motor runnig on no gasoline. Its simply because motor is super ineffective

[@michakrzyzanowski8554]

Be careful with low revs. Accelereting in the low rpms isn't good for the engine, ideally you should go up to 3000-4000 rpm to get up to speed and then upshift. It's better to spend a little more fuel instead of doing an engine overhaul.

[@Justgreen89925]

LSPI (Low Speed Pre-Ignition) only happens when flooring the gas pedal at like 2000-3000 RPM, he was barely accellerating so I don't think thats an issue

Not exactly accelerating, but high load, what's gonna do it. You can be in 3rd gear at 30km/h all day on even road and enjoy engine daintily sipping fuel at idle revs, but pushing it up the steep hill in that configuration will be damaging. Diesels will do that, but not petrols.

[@TimpBizkit]

@@Justgreen89925 2000-3000 rpm seems fairly reasonable. I tend to avoid flooring my car between 900 and 1500 rpm, though if I had to floor at 1500 rpm for long (I don't know what damage it does to the engine but it just sounds lumpy and can feel the vibration) I would probably downshift.

[@Killbayne]

I'll cruise nicely in my diesel at ~1300rpm in 3rd gear 30kmh but as soon as the limit increases I downshift, rev match and accelerate. I used to floor it at low revs thinking it'd help my engine but did the exact opposite

[@Justgreen89925]

@@TimpBizkit nah if your car is petrol i would be more comfortable flooring it at 4000+, some engines can self destruct with LSPI so it's better to be safe then sorry. Obviously if you are not flooring it you can go 1500 RPM just fine

[@kaloyannikolov6849]

About the low revs part: As others have already pointed out, keeping it near the bottom of the rev range can do more harm than good. (in petrol/gasoline cars) Every engine is a bit different, feel around and try to see where the engine is happiest. I drive a 1.3L minivan with around 270K kms on it, it seems to be happiest between 2000 and 3000 revs, anything over 3500/4000 is starting to strain the engine and anything below 1500 feels uneasy. Better to use a tad more fuel than have to do an engine rebuild down the road

[@topa801]

Same for me, i have a 1.5L mazda and if its below 1500 it feels like its gonna die. I like to keep it around 2000-2800 rpms.

[@mateusz92380]

1. Tyre pressure needs to be at optimal point, usually you can find information about it behind the driver door or on the gas valve (sry for english). Bad pressure will mean worse tyre usage and costs of replacing the tyres. 2. Start & Stop function will eat your starter, it's not worth replacing the starter just to save, like a dollar, turning engine off for less than a minute at every light. Plus if you exit the highway and onto the lights and S&S turns the engine off, it's a death sentence to the turbocharger. 3. Constantly almost choking your car out will force it to pump more fuel to generate enough power to compensate for the low revs, if you're accelerating, or if you're driving uphill, don't hesitate to go way beyond 2000 rpm, especially in gasoline engines, which eat fuel on low revs.

Stop-start starters and batteries are built to withstand hundreds of stop-starts per day for 10 years. ECU knows when it's dangerous to stop the engine, like hot turbo oil, low battery voltage, cold oil and coolant, high electricity use, max AC, and traffic situations (like crawling traffic jam). You are saving fuel at every stop longer than 7 seconds if your engine shuts off. The only real reason you should turn the system off is specific traffic situations like traffic light uphill and if you don't want to stop AC compressor from running.

[@user-to7ds6sc3p]

Tyre pressure doesn't need to be at the optimal point at all. That just what the car manufacturer recommends. Tyre pressure will change with temperature and vehicle weight(passengers/luggage/fuel/etc.) so you can't even always be at the optimal point.

[@Quickb3n]

It's not just starters it has an effect on. Timing chains and chain guides also suffer and on certain cars (F30 BMW's for example) it's recommended to code the stop start out in order to protect the timing chain guides from increased wear.

@@Quickb3n Recommended by the manufacturer, I wager?

[@Quickb3n]

No, the entire owner community. This is for pre - 2015 models which suffered from catastrophic timing chain guide failure due to wear on the guides causing them o crack and block the oil pickup. Stop start was noted as being a contributor to the wear of the guides, hence the recommendation. BMW altered the design of the guides and tensioner in 2015 which remedied the issue. There was a class action lawsuit over it in the US which resulted in BMW extending warranties.

[@simplyaugis9864]

Honestly, I discovered quite a few of these within my first month pf driving. Increased fuel economy from 10-12 liters per 100 km to 7-9 liters per 100 km. Maybe I’ll manage to get even better fuel economy with more experience. The car I’m using if you’re curious is a Toyota Rav 4 (2016). Manual, obviously.

[@naretox3830]

I'd use S&S only under certain weather conditions (not in summer for example). I don't like the idea of stopping the cooling system to save 2 bucks a year. The "no brake game" killed me, I always do that and thought i was crazy!

[@m8hzr]

no brake game and low rpm is best for me

[@MickDrivesCars]

A lot of modern cars have electronic water pumps so they will keep cooling even with the engine off. I do agree though, I especially hate it when I leave home, come to the first stop light and the engine kills itself. 0 chance that's good before it's warmed up.

[@supercellex4D]

No brake game works best on highways. I've gone 20 miles using just timed upshifts to deal with american traffic and then setting back cruise control before. I bet you could get 30mpg out of a racecar with that

[@simonczerny3766]

@@MickDrivesCars as a car mechanic i just wanna inform you that the cooling system has nothing to do with electric water pumps - this is true for heating but cooling is a separate system - unles you have an electric air conditioning compressor (electric cars have them and some hybrid cars) the cooling is of when the motor is off.

[@adriannurkiewicz8816]

​@@MickDrivesCars Turbochargers as "cooling" and lubricantion uses oil . If you push your car to the limit (or cruise at high speed at freeway) the supercharger is at high rpm and hot asf and then u just shut booth of them which can lead to excessive wear. I've heared newer skoda's have some way of providing oil to turbocharges even with engine shut off so then it resolves the problem but for the rest it is the problem.

[@bithon5242]

I’m a young driver, but I’ve been playing the no break game, engine breaking and planning ahead and I noticed insane mpg increase over the last few months since I started doing it. I used to be the first one off the traffic lights, always sending almost like I was trying to prove a point that I can shift super fast and super smoothly (now sure that also taught me a lot, like how to rev match, toe hill break/downshift etc) but the amount of money I was wasting on fuel was INSANE. I think I’m paying like 30-40% less now and drive longer, than before and it’s just as fun to optimize my fuel economy as it was to race to the next traffic light like a bafoon 😂

[@ΆγγελοςΦιλιππάκος-μ9δ]

I personally find driving super economical almost equally as fun as sending it and i have averaged 60mpg us over 1 year in bad traffic (yes i drive an efficient car but my mum over a week averaged 41mpg on my car).When engine is cold I am super efficient and when engine is warm enough and i am on a great road I absolutely sent it. However I spend 90%+ of my time driving super economical. Top 3 tips for me are 1)planning ahead(probably accounts for 80% of the improved economy , (the amount of times I get into other people's car and the accelerate then break hard is crazy) 2)engine braking (I swear I use this like 40 % of the time (although there are a lot of hills in my area) 3)no break game(practicly no break means planning ahead and using engine braking to slow down)

[@MickDrivesCars]

1000x this! It's so fun and a great way to make a boring journey more interesting. Also once you get used to all this stuff you just use it all without thinking.

[@MidnightGreen4649]

finally someone else as crazy as i am on the internet. i get 30 mpg on the highway in my turbocharged 4 pot and it's satisfying to know I dont need to sacrifice fun for effeciency.

[@TimpBizkit]

It's not quite as fun but it kills the boredom of slow traffic, and teaches me a lot of hazard observation skills further up the road. People say "are hypermilers slowing traffic down?" I must be doing something wrong because my biggest problem is catching up with slower road users while coasting, then having to press the brake and waste the kinetic energy.

[@MidnightGreen4649]

@@TimpBizkit I try to hypermile on my commute into the city. Most baffling thing is, I get there on time just like the morons who weave through traffic in their jelly suspension SUVs.

[@oscaraurelio8869]

I am kind of confuse: is coasting in neutral really efficient in saving gas? I read engine idling spends an average of 1l/0.264gal/h, and I mean, as an hypothesis, if you accelerate enough to get to slightly over the legal speed, and then release the gas pedal, the gasoline is not expected to run in the cylinders to get combusted, in engines with electronic fuel injection, right?

[@Oreoezi]

The tire pressure tip is dangerous. The tires will wear unevenly and can lead to a blowout. The benefits are very much not worth the added risk.

[@handle32169]

Just be smart about it. Many manufacturer recommendations are underinflated for comfort. The more important thing is keeping the pressures in check - most people ignore them until the pressure sensors scream at them and by that time a lot of fuel has been wasted.

[@human0id]

As long as you don't exceed the cold spec on the tire you should be fine. A little higher pressure will also wear the tires more evenly, reducing the risk of the outer edge getting worn too quickly.

[@MickDrivesCars]

I mean, I did say be sensible and do only +5psi over manufacture's specs I think at that level you'll probably get better/reduced tire wear alongside the +1% mpg. I also like the slightly more positive steering feel.

[@Kiddomike]

It’s not the blow out that I’m concerned about because tires are usually able to handle twice and even three times the maximum pressure before failing. What I’m concerned about is the decreased contact patch of the tire on the road, which decreases wet and dry grip. The decrease in grip for safety reasons is not worth the savings.

[@-aid4084]

​@@Kiddomikeyes. Tire pressures absolutely kills grip. That's why off-roading or rock crawling use really low tire pressure.

[@zxripped6273]

Non-American roads look so peaceful

[@lv6892]

And narrow...

[@MasayaShida]

you will change your view of american roads after trying SE Asia roads hehe

[@squidikka]

Most roads are peaceful when they're not busy. But this type of comment is obviously by somebody who hasn't actually driven on the extremely cramped non-american roads.

[@VinyZikss]

uk roads are narrow as sh*t, I've never been to America but I think I'd take yours over theirs

[@Anamay-it5wq]

if you feel that way then you should see Indian roads

[@playday89]

Another thing with hyper miling is if you were sitting behind a lorry matxhing its speed, you will use less fuel due to the lorry reducing your air resistance

[@GubernareMens]

I have been doing this for the past 40 years and the car recently started to refuel the tank by itself. Thanks Mick!

[@i-robbie8114]

The no brake game is also very very good for good traffic flow and reducing slow traffic, e.g. like the approach to the roundabout, keep moving, keep flowing. Good video.

[@huiba1]

Coasting is actually really effective. I once almost ran out of petrol, and had to coast to the gasstation. I had a car that could display the fuel economy on the screen, it was crazy how much of a difference it made

[@HorseMeal]

Coasting uses more fuel because the engine is idling, when you’re in gear the engine isn’t using fuel to turn

[@huiba1]

@@HorseMeal I kept it in gear, just let the gar roll without gas. So not really coasting but it works

[@melancholic6457]

​@@HorseMealFor old carburated engines that doesn't work.

[@lobobaltazar1322]

Pretty much spot on and how I sometimes like to drive except few minor details. I hate S&S and believe especially in older cars it makes damage to car by stopping and starting engine from scratch. Flywheel, battery, crank etc so many things are being "spent" when doing this. Modern cars are more optimized for it, but still. And most cars use so much more fuel to start a car, and in my country most situation S&S kicks in are few second stops, so all you get is engine cut off. Coasting in neutral can be VERY dangerous would avoid that one. Also on slowing down by shifting there can be in certain cars fine line between "saving brakes and gas" and "trading clutch and gearbox to save brakes and gas". And lastly low revs depend on car too. Mine is really not meant for 1000 rpm, but 1500+ and torque band really kicks of at 1750 rpm and it really feels so much more alive at 1800-2000 and I love keeping it there. I understand this is for fuel saving but I dont like trading fuel saving for safety or longevity of car. Hell I go on trips for hundreds of kilometers for no reason at all. If I want to save something on fuel, I will just skip one trip like that.

[@BlazeFirereign]

"And most cars use so much more fuel to start a car" - for most modern cars, the fuel used to start the engine is minimal and equivalent to a few seconds at idle. This is where planning ahead comes in. If you're sitting still for just a few seconds, you probably want to keep it in gear anyway. Some cars are no doubt badly designed and will suffer wear and tear from stop-start but in a properly designed modern engine, the impact should be minimal. And in any sensible implementation, it's not going to be stopping the engine unless it's up to temperature, which further minimises the impact. It's not the same as repeated cold starts.

[@PrimeSuperboy]

Love the added feedback on this. Agree with all the additional points, including the dangers of coasting in neutral.

[@utiuandy99]

I've found that planning ahead, using engine braking, avoiding braking, and maintaining a constant speed are key for better fuel economy. Regular maintenance is crucial, and it's a good idea to check tire pressure regularly, like when fueling up. Many people focus on keeping low revs and avoiding air conditioning, but driving with the windows down at higher speeds (over 50 km/h) actually hurts fuel economy more than using the A/C. You can test this by timing how long it takes to decelerate from, say, 90 km/h to 60 km/h with the windows up versus down. Just make sure to do it on the same stretch of road in both directions and under similar conditions.

[@rocket2739]

Low RPM engine premature wear is a thing. I'd say 1500 RPM is what you should go for, but 1000 RPM is way too low for acceleration. However, 1000-1300 is enough for cruising at very low throttle. Also, air resistance is proportional to V², not exp(V)

[@davidkempton5694]

He didn't mention drafting, I've found that sitting behind a national express coach on the motorway works nicely as they do about 60-63 mph which is faster than a lorry but still in the good fuel economy range.

[@ethangriffiths7802]

Probably one of my favourite videos from you so far. Real world tips that i didn’t know and that I can start using today, brilliant. I love your informative videos as I’ve never been huge into cars or driving but started to love driving more since I got my current car. It’s nothing to brag about but I want to learn to drive it well and become a better driver and thus these types of videos are fantastic for me. Thanks man and keep informing us

[@MickDrivesCars]

Thank you so much! Lot of work went into this one, glad it was worth it

[@emmanuelbrenes374]

This hits close to home as I too was not that much interested in driving techniques until I got my JImny and started looking into best practices while driving and then, Mick's channel appeared. A god sent, really.

[@ethangriffiths7802]

@@emmanuelbrenes374 completely agree. You’re taught how to drive and pass a test but the rest is up to you to learn and that’s where Mick comes in 👏

[@emmanuelbrenes374]

Unconsciously, I've been playing the no braking game for quite some time. I thought it would be great to let the car just slow down by itself. All other tips, amazing. I own a slow car, and for the most part, I have been making a good KpL. Will see when adding the remaining tips. Cheers from Costa Rica!

[@engineerbot]

It’s also better on the brakes over time. That and light braking.

[@emmanuelbrenes374]

@@engineerbot totally agree. My MIL and wife have commented several times on how smooth the car feels when I am driving, and I feel like the "slow-is-fast" video has some great points about it, but most of it is just slow and progressive breaking, and the same for the acceleration. So, less fuel wasted, extended lifetime for the breaks and smooth driving! It's a win-win scenario.

[@averagedev7768]

All the things you mentioned are what an actuall good driver does and these come with experience naturally, mostly when people get confortable with driving.

[@petrolo72]

💯 I would say that if you’re looking far enough ahead and you need to come to a stop just leave it in the current gear and let the engine do mild braking. Constantly downshifting to slow the car down instead of using the brakes is going to put quite a bit more wear on the clutch and drivetrain. What cost more brake pads or new clutch and transmission?

[@huiba1]

My mom's car actually has a 'coasting' mode. It's an automatic, but when in the eco mode it goes into neutral any time you are not touching the gas. And if you tap the gas it instantly shifts into gear again.

[@kiromcbad9673]

Damn our fathers lived a time where fuel efficiency wasn't a thing. 5 liter grocery getters! Now we are doing road trips on a 900 cc car engine braking coasting and all that. How sad 😢

[@SingleTheShot]

"I've straight-lined the roundabout, if you want to learn more advanced driving tips like that click the video up here" lmao

[@patriotbarrow]

Many of these tips are super helpful irrespective of what powers your car. I get twice the range from my dad's PHEV battery than he manages; all because I optimize my driving for efficiency.

[@Rosterized]

Already knew and use most of the tips here, not because im dirt poor or anything but just because im cheap as hell 🤣

[@MickDrivesCars]

Hahaha I'm not dirt poor (anymore) either It's just fun to drive efficiently/smoothly sometimes, when not in a rush :)

[@Killbayne]

I got my license 2 months ago and im going on my first day of work in september, im broke as hell so I'm driving as economically as possible all the time lol

[@DraXTR_]

Hey there... from my experience, driving manual cars in super low RPM is worse on fuel economy than driving in a bit higher RPM at the start of your torque range (most modern turbo cars around 2k RPM). You need very little throttle input to move your car, and most of the time, you're just letting it cruise around on its own, and if you need to slow down, foot of the gas means youre doing engine braking. Don't be lazy and use that shifter ✌️

[@ElijahDecker]

Coasting in neutral is illegal in much of the U.S. because it decreases control of the vehicle. I can't imagine it saves that much fuel compared to just holding the throttle slightly depressed to stay out of engine braking. Also, you should slightly press the brake pedal when engine braking so your brake lights come on.

[@motiveminute01]

One more tip i found to work is when going on a highway to accelerate harder when going downhill to get cheaper momentum and to accelerate slightly (to the point of actually loosing a bit of speed) when going uphill

[@BlazeFirereign]

The main thing really is planning ahead to keep things rolling. Lots of drivers will stop in the same way every time - they'll be on the gas then straight on the brakes, instead of easing off the gas early for the red light or queueing traffic. Every time you touch the brakes, you're turning fuel (or electricity) entirely into waste heat. Not a fan of the coasting suggestion at speed. For safety, you really want to be in gear unless you're stopped or rolling to a stop. And keep in mind that your engine is using fuel to idle while you coast - yes, you're maintaining more speed because you don't have the engine losses sapping your kinetic energy, but you're using fuel to overcome those losses by idling anyway! Just keep it in a high gear to minimise those losses while you roll using no fuel. Shifting through the rev range to engine brake all the way is not worthwhile in most modern cars. It may be worth doing through the higher gears to keep the car rolling in gear, but it's not going to be worth e.g. going to 2nd or 1st to keep it in gear for the last 10mph of slowing. The wear and tear on your clutch is going to be more impactful than the miniscule fuel savings, unless you're a perfect rev matcher. More air in your tyres will help with rolling resistance, but it's going to impact handling, comfort, and wear. This will be heavily dependent on the vehicle but I wouldn't go far above the manufacturer recommendations. It's definitely worth *checking* tyre pressures on a routine basis - many drivers don't bother, and significantly underinflated tyres are bad in pretty much every way. On the aircon point, the same is (often) true of heating. That's obviously and especially true for EVs which use energy straight from the battery to heat the cabin, but many combustion engined cars will still take a hit to fuel economy when the heater's on. Stay wrapped up so you don't need to whack it on as high, and use heated seats and wheel if you've got them - they use a lot less energy than cabin heat. (Obviously, you should never avoid using heat as needed to avoid fogging.) On revs, an M2 has enough torque low down to accelerate comfortably, but many cars will struggle to accelerate in a timely manner if you're restricting your rev range - and that's dangerous on sliproads where you *need* to get a move on. If you've got a small engine, you'll need to use the rev range. And you're often better off economically if you accelerate properly (not full throttle to redline, but not slowly either) to get to cruising faster, as engines are usually most efficient when cruising at low revs - not when slowly accelerating.

[@jarekpszuk6944]

Lower revs works only for cars with relatively powerful engines which have plenty of power from idle onwards, such as the BMW you drove in the video. I have a Skoda Fabia II with a 60 horsepower 1.2 litre three cylinder, that engine absolutely hates any amount of throttle addition at revs lower than 1800 rpm. I usually keep it between 2000 and 2500 rpm, runs quite smooth for a 3 cylinder and sips little to no fuel just like it should.

[@MickDrivesCars]

I do agree with you, but I think it's a uniquely 3-cylinder problem Lots of 4 pot cars I've driven are quite happy around 1.2k-1.6k with minimal throttle - and even the m2 is unhappy at those revs at more than ~25% throttle.

[@doubleb947]

As a young provisional driver who's still taking driving lessons your contents is golden to me, thank you!

[@Dani3l_K]

Same

[@arnavm.9529]

One of your best videos to date, great presentation too

[@MickDrivesCars]

Damn, thank you!

[@David_Crayford]

Good stuff. I knew most of this but it's great that you have put everything all in one place.

[@matisl1853]

obdeleven is sick, but to have to pay for credits is scammy in my opinion. Why not bump the price and then it includes all the features?

[@mirrored_]

Because it's scam company and want earn money on subscription for device you bought already, sick

[@mirrored_]

Because it's scam company and want earn money on subscription for device you bought already, sick

[@jreererer8490]

I have an older bmw that has the MPG needle that constantly shows you how much its efficient at the moment. It's actually not good to have it as close to idle revs but a bit higher 2000rmp so the engine has more power and doesnt feel that much load but is also still quite low RPMs and it will use very little fuel

[@ÁronBeňadik]

watch out because on older cars (around 15 years) the A/C can increase your fuel consumption almost to double! Another thing you should only be in that low-rev range if you want to keep your speed or accelerate really slowly, otherwise you are going to pay the saved fuel's price in the service..

[@Tibialstone7]

Brilliant as always mate. Thanks for making these!

[@Steven-p4j]

Manufacturers appear to state their tyre pressure's according to the most comfortable ride, and not economy, for that reason I normally set my tyre pressure at 35 PSI, instead of 30, and it is better in every way. Handling is also improved, I find.

[@WT-eg2bl]

Disclaimer to the "Low Revs", u should try to keep as low RPMs as possible only in naturally aspirated engines. Almost all of cars come with VGT turbos these dayes, and low rpms actually have massive impact on those turbos longetivity. However in case of not so agressive drivin, keepin revs low wont hurt them so much

[@TimpBizkit]

56 mph is the "most efficient" on a dual carriageway because it is the speed of a lorry limiter. You can tuck behind one (ideally leave around 50-60 yards for safety reasons) and reduce your air resistance. Without the lorry, probably 25-30 mph or whatever your highest gear does at idle is probably more efficient, though tedious for you and everyone behind you unless it's a low speed limit road. In truth you may be able to beat this further with small bouts of acceleration followed by engine off coasting, but haven't tested this. I'd be interested to see the results on a test track.

[@eleftheriosgkioulekas1001]

Lovely video. I have been doing a lot more engine breaking than before (you mentioned it in a previous vid also). Wind resistance grows with power 2 of speed, not exponentially, but it is still a bitch. I feel it when riding my bicycle. When I ride with wind at my back, I can take off like a speed demon. When riding against the wind, I go like a turtle at a lower gear. Wind sucks.

[@lawsen3719]

This is very useful, I am a new driver with just under 1 year driving experience and I drive my mom's Rav4 2019, I try to drive safetly and efficiently so it doesn't cost my mom anything, so far I have only been aware of using Low Revs (7:00) and coasting, I also use the cruise control when on long roads and try to not brake when coming up to a stop, instead I just let the car come to a stop on it's own by letting go of the gas. This stuff will be very useful for when I eventually get my own car, thank you.

[@mati4181]

I find the coasting and engine breaking very great and generally pleasant and my passengers agree on this. Thanks. Please correct me if I'm wrong but your car doesn't use the least fuel at VERY low revs (1k for petrol). In my head the force it takes to overcome the drawing in of the air through a slightly open throttle body has to be remedied by the computer pumping more fuel. Since diesels dont regulate via air intake and they make more power at low revs, you're better off with less throttle/revs. I'm ready to be proven half right or wrong by people in the comments.

[@rarespetrusamartean5433]

I really don't recommend downshifting through the gears when engine breaking if, as you do in the video, you're not willing to rev match. The syncro wear is not worth it. Just stay in the same gear and use brakes if needed because you'd rather replace those than syncros.

[@zarovakalex9272]

I like the format. This was a high quality video.

[@MickDrivesCars]

Thank you sir!

[@Dani3l_K]

Interesting and informative video. Enjoyed it

[@MickDrivesCars]

Thank you sir!

[@nkkollaw]

Good video, but your absolute best ones are the accident analysis ones.

[@gamesmaster1060]

I'm not sure about low revs, surely if you are using too low revs for a given situation then engine will have high load leading to more fuel being used anyway. Also its not good for the engine. But either way you suggesting coasting automatically removed any credibility you had for me lol

[@Killbayne]

keeping it in neutral uses fuel unlike just stepping off the gas, I don't know how coasting is recommended here lol, when I approach a red light I still engine brake through all gears until I come to a stop

[@shawandrew]

I'd imagine that going through the gears in a manual would be a good habit as it keeps you in control of the vehicle, but would a modern engine really consume more fuel in neutral? Either way the tip is useless if you don't drive a standard transmission.

[@jedananagram6272]

Nice rundown. However there's one tip you forgot to mention: keep your car clean! It won't matter much on lower speeds, but as you've said, air resistance increases exponentially with speed. And dirt on surface worsens its aerodynamic properties significantly. So if you are going on longer highway trips, and don't want to be cruising at 56 mph, washing your car before is a way to get better fuel mileage...

[@ahmedjamal6397]

Very informative , thx

[@MickDrivesCars]

Glad you liked it

[@llluqueee]

Hey guys, i want to add something to this video that i learned during a security course provided by my auto insurrance. It take more fuel to go from 40 km/h to 50km/h than going to 49km/h to 50km/h, is it right ? (24 miles/hours -> 31 Miles/hours / 30 m/h -> 31m/h for the tea drinkers) So the best way to consume less is to going quickly to the speed limit/speed u want to drive and stabulize it carefully (by not losing more than 1km/h). U will consume some gas to go to the limit but u will consume lot less gas trying to maintain ur speed. Using speed regulator is quite good for that because it will do micro accelerations to maintain the speed, wich consume lot less than regaining the 2km/h u lost. Also going quickly to the speed limit is important because it is better to make 200 meters consuming 15 l/100 (18mpg) than 800 meters consuming 9 l/100 (31mgp). In the second case u consume 60% less but the distance is 300% more important. So at the end u consume more. U can also use the metaphor of the bike to help you. It is a lot easier to maintain the same speed with a bike than accelerating. It is the same with ur car, it consume less to hold the speed than accelerating constantly to rotate around the speed that u want. The data that i use come from my 1.5 diesel 100hp peugeot car so for a 200+hp the consumation data will be different of course, but it is all these little things that allow me to have an average consommation of 4,5 litter/100km or 62mpg. On the highways, all of the tips given in this video (cruising in the downhills...) allow me to have an average consuption of 3.5 L/100 or 80.71mpg. And i'm living in moutains, wich is quite bad for my consumption, also, i do very often aggresive drives, wich consume a lot. But with all that habits, u can see that having a low consuption is easy. Also take in consideration other car part like the brake. It is good to think to oil but u also have to change ur brakes if they are used to brake a lot. This is why engine break is a money saver... BUT a new ennemy enter in the game : the clutch. By using too much ur clutch to downgrade to use the engine break, u will prematurely damage ur clutch. The holy achievment to limitate ur brake and clutch use is : the more often possible braking wich the motor brake engaging 1 or 2 speed bellow. But u have to be carefull to make PERFECT heel toe to not damage ur clutch. Otherwise, u may not change ur brakes often but u will destroy ur clutch by downgrading 2 gear when u want to slow down.

[@lukecastellan8939]

Great tip with thr hypermiling. I never knew it. Awesome overall video as well

[@MickDrivesCars]

Thanks dude! 👍

[@ПетърТодоров-ы6й]

The first tip is gonna wear out your gearbox

[@swoldoge]

It would probably be good to point out that coasting isn’t the greatest if you drive an automatic transmission. You want to be stationary when you shift to drive since you can’t feather the clutch, and an rpm mismatch between the gears could damage the transmission. Also, coasting is a traffic violation in some jurisdictions (at least in Alabama, USA). But so is speeding, and look how that goes.

[@p12jacob]

Avoiding high speeds and using a block heater in the winter are also two small tips.

[@marbesky]

who has time to do this anymore ???? NOBODY because they all rush to wait at a red light

[@Simon_r2600]

I think turning off the AC gets better fuel economy than using start stop, and its not even harmful to the engine. On the other hand, depends where you drive

[@gianlucabruno2596]

classic bmw driver not using indicators 🤣

[@aiztoh]

Noice, some of the tips apply to my country, great video!

[@PrimeSuperboy]

Having driven over 60,000 miles (4 total years), I've saved 14 gallons of fuel using the Start/Stop. That's almost a whole fuel tank, which is the equivalent of about $55.00USD. If my starter were to need replacing at this point, it definitely wouldn't have paid for itself in fuel savings. Also, coasting in neutral is illegal in most US based jurisdictions because it's very dangerous for the untrained driver since they don't have immediate control of the vehicle if they need to accelerate out of danger. Do Not Do It.

[@nightkido]

when you have a 3 liter engine ofc its easy to start from a light and upshift at 2k rpm. my 1.2 liter will stutter if I dont bring the revs higher.

[@ahmetcvk7775]

Nice video bro thanks

[@abhigeo4171]

Thumbnail-kun deserves a raise

[@ashtar3876]

56mph is like, under the speed limit but still pretty normal here in the netherlands lol. When i get my license i for sure will be hypermiling cus you're not even going that slow.

[@spudo6]

Oh my gosh I watched alot of your videos and just realised i recognise all the roads u drive on and live near u i think. Keep up the vids and nice job fitting in with youtube trends and shit like this thumbnail 👌

[@bestimmtkeinbot9793]

I think your speed for hypermiling is a myth. Whats true though is that patrol engines are more efficient at an higher load. I don't think the same applies to diesels at least not to this extent. The key here is thermodynamic efficiency increases with higher combustion temperature caused by more fuel injection.

[@zyzzzam6348]

I know this video will blow up like crazy 💪💪 lez goooo

[@jimmythompson8919]

The views and likes and flying as im watching. Mick deserves the success - my favourite source of info for driving

[@MickDrivesCars]

Haha I hope so!

[@MickDrivesCars]

Thank you sir!

[@antazur3983]

I'm already using all this tips, except for the Start/Stop, for good reasons : the fuel economy is actually ridiculous AND in long term it's bad for your engine especially if you live in town, because right after starting again you accelerate before the oil is completely back in the engine, also it stop the cooling system, and it wears down a lot faster your engine starter AND your battery !

[@ZenTunE-]

There's more than enough oil left in the head even after sitting with the engine off for a minute, I'd think.

[@TheBoyCalzone]

That's why they specially designed better and reliable starters & batteries for the start/stop systems as they came about...

[@MickDrivesCars]

Can I be honest with you? That start/stop actuation in the video was the first time I've actually let the M2 do it :D I hate the bloody system for all the reasons you've just mentioned... but... for pure fuel economy it is better.

[@nerfingdino5628]

I love the thumbnail, i thought i was clicking on a "Paint Guy" video

[@mercury2c]

Learned the no brake game from my emt wife. Gamechanger

[@inthebackwiththerabbish]

interesting ive been doing all of this (apart from the tyre pressure) without learning about it 😂 just thought it was common sense😂

[@Big_Kala]

Concerning the AC. If you turn it off, that means you’d have to roll your windows down. Wouldn’t the drag from wind resistance also affect fuel efficiency?

[@shawandrew]

I don't mean to be negative but I have a lot of criticism. First if all, you say you are fully aware that a lot of viewers drive automatic cars but three of your tips are exclusive to manual transmission cars, unless you advocate automatic car drivers pop into neutral to coast, which is very bad for an automatic transmission. That said, can someone explain how engine breaking would save fuel compared to using your brake petal? You seem to be of the idea that you are returning the energy to the engine for it to use later. I don't know everything about modern engines, but I don't think this saves any fuel. If I can talk about low revs for a moment. There are actually cases of people having extremely expensive repairs due to employing this strategy, because their oil pump is engine driven, and not enough oil is getting to all the places it needs to go due to the engine never going into higher revs. The correct way to drive os in the power band, but you don't have to adhere to it like a race car driver, as that is also not great for a manual transmission. You simply allow your car to go into higher revs sometimes. This ties into maintenance and tire pressure. I agree about maintenance, although I wouldn't recommend messing with the factory settings. But I would say regular oil changes and making sure that your air filter is clean should be the main thing. Amd when it comes to tire pressure, the factory recommendation is there for a combination of comfort, least wear or best wear pattern, and fuel economy. Now the AC thing. I guarantee that you would not be saying this if youjved in north America. In the southern US where I currently live the summers are so hot that AC is not optional. You try driving without AC when the temperature is over 100 degrees Farenheit outside. And in Canada where I have lived, the winters will require you to use a defroster, which employs the AC to remove moisture from the air blowing onto the windshield. If you are actually moving, the AC won't draw much power, and telling people to forgo that because of the fuel savings is like telling people to not listen to their radio. It may do something, but it's like using a handkerchief to wipe your bum in order to save money on toilet paper. All in all I recommend planning ahead and keeping your car maintained, but you should be careful about employing other tips which may give little benefit for the effort, or reward you in costly repair expenses.

[@-aid4084]

I have a question with the start stop, if you're stopped and the engine turns off, and you go into gear without using the clutch, will the car crank the engine from a standstill? Or will it just remain off until you put the clutch in? There's no way they haven't thought of this happening.

When you press in the clutch it will start. You must be in neutral to stop the engine, so either clutch is in or you shifted into neutral. If the car knows you're trying to get into gear, it will start. I used to drive a 2016 Renault Clio, that was exactly how it worked: arrive at red light, engine shuts off as soon as speed is zero and clutch is fully in. I shift to neutral to release the pedal. See amber light, clutch in, engine starts, by the time I am slipping the clutch the engine is alrteady started and I can drive normally.

[@imtempie]

Can you do a test on air conditioning and how much more mpgs you get?

[@speedybonsky]

I do almost all of them without knowing it saves you fuel, just to save on breaks. 😂

[@maddilynpeterson4180]

8:06 just to add a little bit to turning off ac to improve fuel economy, it has been proven that the impact on aerodynamics of rolling down your windows is worse for feul economy than running your ac, so yes turning your ac off will give you better fuel economy, but rolling down your windows instead of running your ac will not

[@chaseorton-brown5225]

Engine braking is a tricky trade off. Yeah it might be slightly more fuel efficient, but its unnecessary wear on your clutch, and replacing your brake pads is much cheaper than your clutch.

[@serzaknightcore5208]

The clutch won''t like the no brake game. Automatic car maybe not, idk i never drove them. But on manual car there is a limit to how much engine brake you want, after that you will wear your clutch pretty hard (that's why you never put on first gear for engine breaking: instead of using the motor to brake, your car will stopped before you even completely declutch, making the clutch do most of the work.) But yeah, be careful of the tips here, some here are a big yes, like planning ahead. Some are more... dubious. Like i said engine braking, if you keep it low yes, but don't overdo it (i switch to a lower gear when i would have switched up at the speed. For example if i stay at the third gear up to 50km/h, then if i am at 60km/h i will wait for a bit, or do a double-clutch to not wear the clutch too much) . Maintenance of course, but his thing that he plug isn't a magical device, especially on older car. A good indicator, but don't rely on it for everything maintenance related. Tire pressure no. Because while you have lower rolling resistance, you car will stick less to the road, so instand of transmitting say 90% of power, you will transfert 70% of power. Manufacturer knows what they are doing,they don't just put a random number here. Though tire pressure tipe: always put a little more pressure in the tire. If you have too much pressure, you will lose energy efficency and traction, but for it to be visible you really need to be overdoing it, like putting more than 5 psi what's recommanded. Not enough pressure, and your tires will wear faster. And if it's too low, it can easely be shredded or even explode. Low rev is good, not at the point he says. 1000 rpm, in any car is too low. You basically need to listen to your car, if you shift up and you don't sense the engine shaking, then you are good. If you do it too low, premature engine failure. Because what is hapenning is that to push the pistons, the car need to make a bigger ignition, up to a point that it may even need an explosion. And there is a reason why we don't just have a big-ass explosion all the time. And for hypermilling, 80km/h on the highway is really, really slow. Trucks are faster. So if you don't want to go that slow, the rule when going fast is usually that for each 10km/h that you remove, you will get 10% fuel economy (including the fact that you will get there slower). If we take an extreme, if on a motorcycle you go 130km/h, and then you average 260km/h, then your fuel consumption will be about twice what you had before. And on a lighter note, 120km/h instead of 130 will get around 10% economy fuel. While it's not a god-rule, it's a good thing to keep in mind. if you are about to stay very long on the highway, just lower your speed a bit. It will be more or less the same thing, you will be coming later, but you will have less fuel cosumption. And if it should have used 300$ of fuel (especially in france when fuel is almost 2€/l,) then making a 30$ economy is probably more worth it then coming an hour sooner. But if you want pleasure, then sure, drive at 130km/h or even higher. Just keep in mind that it's not the optimal way.

[@bonsaibaumchenlp2005]

thats an insanely good video

[@MickDrivesCars]

Thank you so much!

[@MikhaelAhava]

I do some, but I drive CVTs. Still I’m qualified to drive manual’s.

[@snnrman4053]

Man in BMW M car telling me how to save fuel 😁

[@ingeniusbtw]

didn’t expect u to like juice wrld lil peep and xxx ❤

[@MickDrivesCars]

Haha yeah I have a "driving" playlist with a lot of such songs

[@Nikolaos3750RS]

never seen a bmw driver say "a little bit of revs is all you need" 😂😂😂

[@Foxis1080]

I will never want to be liberal 7:35

[@sonicszuetomyt5448]

This is fake news. By keeping your engine at 1000RPM you're slowly destroying your drive train. AND, the computer is forced to give MORE fuel to keep you going, because there's not enough power. This is expecially noticeable in petrol cars, as they are just weaker. (But they are overall stronger when at high RPM. Diesels loose momentum at high RPMs.)

[@DaniV3392]

If you are coasting, wouldn't it make the engine spend fuel to keeping up the minimum revs and not stall? Wouldn't it be better to select a higher gear that allows the car to decelerate very lightly like 5th or 6th gear and have the momentum rev the engine through the drive train?

[@MrPhilip796]

Lower revs doesn't automatically mean less fuel consumption, especially in uphills where lower gears makes it easier for the engine to move! In my GD i30 for example it starts using more fuel under ~1800RPM when its idle is 1/3 that. In my MB3 Civic it turns the economical driving light off below 1500RPM to signify that as well

[@corl4147]

my petrol Toyota 4cyl is perfectly fine doing 1100 rpm throttle wide open on longer climbs, this is very much car specific

[@marcin25]

exactly, I found that my petrol bmw e87 has the best fuel economy when driving with ~2200rpm, a LOT better than when trying to drive with e.g 1500rpm, even 3000rpm is better than 1500 in my case

[@MrPhilip796]

@@corl4147 You sure about that? A 2011 turbo diesel Toyota Yaris I've driven lugged the engine HARD when doing anything remotely near wide open throttle below 2000RPM.

[@geronieldas4844]

bensin engines are made for higher rpm, 2000 is the best for the bensin, low rpm is difficult to accelerate from, high rpm is more power but high consumption, always try to keep it in that range and you will be fine

[@DriverNerdAutomotives]

Turning off AC will only save fuel if you are at relatively small speed, if you are driving highway speeds, you are better of closing windows and turning on AC.

[@anubhavgupta3370]

Good video Mick

[@MickDrivesCars]

Legend

[@jackedrussell]

I already do basically all of these things and as a result, my car that got 42mpg in official tests is now averaging 31.7mpg.

[@MickDrivesCars]

Let's go!

[@Im_Frustrated45]

uhhh u alr?

[@bambou3715]

Coasting represent a risk in emergency breaking

[@Simarski17]

At 10:32 you mention 56 mph being the most efficien speed in most cars. I'm curious, where did you get that number? Why 56 and not 50?

[@MediaNocte3000]

Left out drafting. Driving behind a bus, semi truck, or other big vehicle that takes away a lot of the air resistance. Yeah, you lose a lot of your forward visibility, but buses and trucks take longer to stop than cars, so you just have to focus on the truck right in front of you.

[@RisingSwell]

When it comes to the traffic line gran prix, the slower my car is the more i care. Maybe it's a skill issue because the moment i got a car that required more than 'lol floor it' i stopped doing it.

[@ijhhcfionlkgs]

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