Micro Adjust Your Table Saw

Easy to build micro adjuster for your table saw.
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[@amdenis]

I wanted to say that your video, and its approach of showing the work in context of the overlaid 3D annotation of the whole piece is the best I have seen. I have created a lot of e-learning courseware, simulation systems and other interactive and non-interactive media for decades. Your approach is very effective and engaging for this type of instruction, and the obvious care you put into your clear, step by step instruction is phenomenal. Thanks!

[@ronaldroberts7221]

At 2:08, when you are epoxy-ing the nut into the hex-hole, a handy tip is to spread a little grease on a bolt thread, and run it in and out of the nuts, to prevent excess epoxy from getting into the nut threads.

[@donvjgr]

Great idea Brian. You can calculate your progression based on the threads per inch also. I think I will use this idea on my table saw fence too. Thanks for the video. Don

[@TheMrWoodsman]

Great Video, especially like the still's popping up on screen to show the part you are working on, great idea

[@gabrielgarciawoowworks]

Great work on the micro a just. And great word of the day. Nut hole. Will need to use that one

[@JimBeshears]

gabriel garcia There was also a lot of nut jammin going on here, just sayin.

[@johnmacmillen6244]

I watched your video to get some idea how I might make a micro adjuster for my router fence. I made one based on your video that will move the fence either way and can be moved on a rail. I have it centered on the hose housing and I can remove the entire unit if need be.

[@scott98390]

The 3-D (Sketchup?) drawing added really helps to visualize what you're talking about.

[@leonardorinaldes502]

Criatividade é básico para quem trabalha com madeiras! e você tem de sobra Parabéns.

[@iphadkegmail]

Awesome and thought out build!

[@julianoalberto]

Nice project. Awesome shop!

[@SuburbanDon]

Very good. Nice production.

[@TheShavingWoodWorkshop]

Very cool idea

[@joedance14]

Nice work!

[@RickMcQuay]

Looks handy. I've always been a tapper but occasionally that isn't precise enough.

[@freewoodencrosses]

I have never heard of the term nut holes before, but I like it. Great video, Thanks

[@PracticalEngineeringSolutions]

Great video. Would it be possible to attached the "push" block to the T part of the fence? That way you could push or pull the fence in either direction.

[@rhoula]

Now that's an excellent Jig. Thank you for sharing :)

[@NathanSafran]

Fantastic job. Plans would be awesome. Let us know how you find it works out.

[@sparkyprojects]

I only have a cheap tablesaw (not easy to mount something like that), but it works for what i need, but my micro adjust method is to place a finger flat on the table next to the fence, and gently raise the finger in a rolling motion keeping the fingertip in contact with fence and table.

[@j.d.ransom6721]

Great idea. Thanks for sharing it.

[@BackyardWoodworking]

Nice little jig for that tight work.

[@McGinnsWoodShop]

Smart

[@star1713]

great idea

[@walterrider9600]

great idea thank you

[@joecnc3341]

Nice Video! Love the superimposed CAD models! Really highlights what part you are making. What software did you do the CAD and Video Editing in?

[@GarageWoodworks]

Micro Adjust Your Table Saw

[@ardvarkkkkk1]

As a machinist, I have been tapping things to adjust them for 25 years. I have a fine adjust on my fence. Never use it. The reciprocal of the thread pitch will give the distance the screw advances in one turn.

[@Walt1119]

I like the shirt! Oh yeah, good project and video too! W

[@ricekingfromny1737]

Great idea- have been thinking about making one with some modifications-- I want to make one with hold down for dial indicator so that you can directly read the movement if wanted- Table Saw Fence Micro Adjuster ---- AND---- I would like to attach a metal "L" shaped bracket or hook inserted into a hole drilled on top of backing plate for sacrificial fence so that you can push and pull the fence in both directions.. link below is example "L" shaped bracket that could be bolted or attached to the business end of your micro-adjuster arm to hook into the sacrificial fence and allow it to be pulled-- as well as pushed. Sacrificial Fence Clamp Any ideas on how you might do this? thanks

[@MustacheVerra]

There's got to be a way to make this part of your fence system as oppose to an add on... I ask cause that's what i want to do for myself. When i saw the video tittle i figured damn this guy is gonna show me how to do it, how cool is that! But i guess you didn't go all the way... I guess the trick is to have this micro adjustment thing built in between the T-bar and the fence then. I believe i just answered my own question. Thanks to this very informative video i have a very good idea how I'm gonna build my fence now. Yo made things so much easier now. Thanks much.

[@NGinuity]

Great tutorial. I often forget how spoiled I am with the Incra positioners.

[@alfredneumann4692]

I would have made the two nuts adjustet, so you have no play between forward and backward turning. But the idea is very good. Cheerio from Germany.

[@ManhattanWoodProject]

Great idea! I like your addition of the 3-D drawing at certain points as well, very helpful. Is it from SketchUp?

[@GarageWoodworks]

Yes SketchUp. And thank you.

[@kevinbtak]

kool vid, but most importantly, the orange jersey at the end. Super kool

[@renbooth4147]

All i need is a table saw! i like it.

[@uncleSamsites]

nice!

[@thomash.9860]

Super Idee... :)

[@ryankaul8620]

I too use the same brand of blue label wood glue.

[@GarageWoodworks]

It’s much better than green.

[@ryankaul8620]

Johnny Jointer blue label

[@chrisjohnson6482]

So the way this works is that as you tighten the screws, it puts pressure on the glue/screw joint holding the side onto the top. But this is a really weak joint and any decent amount of pressure will break it (I just made this as an experiment and it split right at that joint as I suspected on first use). I tried not tightening it down very much but then even the slightest nudge from the fence moves this thing which defeats the purpose, and by the time you tighten it down enough to stop it from moving you've broken that joint. Trying to think of a way to get a proper clamping system and about the only thing I can come up with is one of those universal fence clamps, but those don't quite fit, so I'd need to make a custom version. Anybody else have any other thoughts?

[@kevinvernon3600]

You're using really soft/weak wood, or really bad/lame/not enough glue - or both. Use a good dense hardwood, and glue it properly, and you will not have this problem. A tiny bit of non-skid foam pad or sandpaper on the part that clamps to the fence rail will stop it slipping, and you shouldn't need to tighten it down like it was a vice. This is why he made the thing from Cherry, where odds are you made yours from Pine, and that's why it broke.

[@chrisjohnson6482]

I'm using hard red oak and plenty of titebond III, that definitely isn't the issue. Plus, as I said, it broke right near the joint, indicating that the wood strength wasn't the issue, and I used *plenty* of glue and gave it 72 hours to fully cure. It's just absolutely a very weak joint -- simple physics tell you this, there's no doubt about it. I was just curious if maybe he got away with it being a weak joint by not tightening it down very much?

[@chrisjohnson6482]

I will give it another try with some stick-on sandpaper to see if that gives me enough anti-movement without having to really give it any clamping pressure whatsoever, which is about the only way a joint like this will not fail.

[@vallejokid1968]

Going to give Mathias a run for his money.

[@Uncle_Buzz]

What's the "got ham" shirt about? I see you wear it a lot.

[@GarageWoodworks]

It's from a ham festival in North Carolina. I think I need more T-shirts now :)

[@bobbg9041]

Now pull the fence back because you went to far! Magnets....... If its a steel fence. Li ke yours but you could use T track bolts and nuts if its a extruded aluminum type with T Slots on it.

[@bobbg9041]

Making it up as you go along tends to work the best. That way you can make corrections as you go rather than buy something that doesn't work from a store and have to fix it with a hammer! SMASH___________ Oops!

[@SuperPatrickPacheco]

Hey! Is this episode sponsored by Mountain Dew?

[@carter83419]

Nice work!