Great review, thanxx

Its too expensive for what it is considering food dehydration units can be had for cheaper as can other filament dryers.

I want to try this. However, I am going to use a 5 gallon bucket. I am going to line it with paper towels and have a mesh shelf to set prints on. Thanks for your input.

Not sure why you were printing PLA with the door and top in place ! All enclosed printers have to be opened to print PLA ; that's basic knowledge sorry but we will let you off since you had not delt with it before ! Lol . For me I am glad the USB is at the back and at the top as it's less likely to be hit or broken off by my partner cleaning in the print room or if a visitor goes in the room . Also so glad where the Filament holder is in stead of directly at the back and I personally like the power plug at the side as I hate having to move big printers to access the back for leads or Filament!! Finally someone is using their head in designing a machine plus a bloody thick plate for the bed ; 6 mm is a must for such a big build size ! They have learnt from there previous machines which is great to see unlike some companies !

good vid even all these years later. just did this because my stock fan was loud and dirty. used a red led 120mm pc fan i had laying around that has removable screw mounts that slide off. didnt even have to glue it just splice the wires and pressure fit it in there lol. thanks for the info dude!

Questions: 1. Does the Chamber have even and accurate temps? (saw a review showing the chamber was temp was not accurate and not evenly heated) 2. If you do a max size print once the bed drops to same height as the Blower, does it interfere with prints and chamber temp? 3. Are all new Qidi Plus 4's expected to have the SSR updated on delivery?

I built a bracket for my V600 (V400) to hold my endoscope pointing down to reflect off an angled mirror (the ones a dentist uses) It is a little bulky but works. I could make this work but might be difficult to wire it up. Soldering not my thing, but could try with proper directions if someone could share a link.

When I try to print with PETG filament, I always encounter problems at some point. Sometimes the print doesn’t adhere properly, and other times the filament quality is poor. I use a nozzle temperature of 250°C and a bed temperature of 80°C. However, no print can be completed successfully because the filament quality deteriorates during printing, and the print fails. What can I do to resolve this issue? Also how can I check if the SSR is defective or not? For now, I don’t dare to make any configurations, like removing or changing anything. I was having version 1.1, and I updated it to version 1.6. I bought the print 2 weeks ago from canada from Amazon? Additionally, I’m using this printer for creating parts for UAV drones. It’s important for me to achieve high-quality prints, especially for structural components. Any advice on optimizing the printer settings or resolving these issues would be greatly appreciated.

I hope those E3D diamondbacks come back in stock soon. Been wanting one!

2:40 *A gap of 0.1mm is too small. 0.3 provides an easily removable and fairly clean support.*

Ok, the conductive pads idea is pretty damn clever...

clever idea. ill have to try

I think the jet pack might have a secondary use. That would be to reduce heat creep when you use the all metal extruder BIQU makes. Be interesting to see a test on that.

What did you say was the softest level of tpu? 95a?

Can you link your Thermo Cam?? I´ve seen some going around but normally out of our budget.

I am a bmg clone guy. Triangle labs bmgs fix most issues. I use the fixed silicone bed tube thingies vs springs

Hi, inconclusive.

I don’t think the issue is with the AnkerMake. I tried the same thing on a Bambu and I was getting the same thing. It was going up to like 40mm^3 with no issues, so I’m guessing it was some sort of slicer bug.

What is a long time for PETG to absorb moisture?

Can we find the STL file for the fan cooler jet thing?

My Prusa MK4 web interface does not look like that at all

Correct me if I am wrong. Voron Kits are at least double the price compare to available printers. U just pay 500-800 more to proof yourself u can do it?

I really like your videos and how you go step by step. I have the BTT Pi 1.2 and can not get it to boot or connect to wifi or ethernet any ideas what i am doing wrong. I have tried multiple sd cars as well as the raspberry pi os installer and the etcher os flasher and have had no luck any help would be great

10:20 lol yeah that beep does sound like the correction collars

I'm thinking if you have spare belt, you can hang them vertically with known weights hanging from the bottom. Heck, calibrate with the exact tension you want on your printer. How does that correlate to a different width belt? Who knows... calibrate using that width belt. I'm going to build one of these with no numbers, just one line in the middle of the scale.

Thank GOD. I was dreading the task of implementing per-filament PID.

Will this hold the 3kg spools?

Would love to have a Qidi Plus 4 to replace my inoperable Creality printers

I HATED octoprint. I spent days struggling to learn/fight through installing klipper on a Pi and doing the conversion- when i DID get it figured out Octoprint was such shit compared to even just a regular slicer that i deleted it and struggled through a whole install again but THIS time i went with Fluidd/mainsail. Which is infinitely better😂 its basically the slicer your used to but with full control. I put an accelerometer on my old bed slinger the other day and ran input shaping, its cool how much control you have- if you can think it up basically you can make it do it😂 if anyone is on the fence- go with fluidd/mainsail. Its just so much better.

Probably my next printer. Does enough things over and above the average printer to make it worth it. Good customer support etc.

Very informative. Thank-you.

That paint on fuzzy skin feature is going to be huge for me… I’m going to use it to make the inner surface of parts grabby to adhere epoxy to, like the inside of a rocket nose cone. I’m also delighted to see support for different nozzle sizes start to appear.

thnx

Hi, I have the same exact printer and it's been going well but when I try and print something the printer percentage would just randomly start going up while not printing anything and it's not even moving

I ordered mine and it said it was RFD compatible now does this reflect in the installation manual so we know where they go?

Do i need to add custom g-code into the filament section start g-code to take over the filament pressure advance setting from orca slicer?

People really like bouncing the filament on that arm 👀

How is it in 2024? Should I get this or the Creality K2 plus?

Rafts were a very useful thing back when people were printing ABS on Mendel-tier printers that had little or no bed heating, and where warping was a major issue because of uneven heating. They were also present on some cheaper 3D printers' slicers a few years ago, because they ensured that a print likely could be done. These days, the lily pads or "mouse ears" are what seem to be used. Something like a brim around a sharp angle that is on the print bed, just to ensure that area stays in place. Skirts, I definitely consider a must, as they are good "insurance".

I am confused it it’s a billy bookcase why not use Billy shelves instead of conduit. You can print stoppers to prevent the rolls from slipping

Prusa 2.9 vs current Orca?

Why print Nylon if PETG is just as strong?

11:47 is the lid bolted on or something? It cant ve that bad to take off.

When I first saw the thumbnail, I thought it said "it's tits" lol

Poor mans voron goes Nnnyyyoooooom!!!! I’m honestly tempted to wait for The mini version. Also I wonder if they will ever try attack the bamboo market like so many others do now

translation, you got a free extruder to say how much you like it on a channel that is viewed by 27K people one one video, nice job honestly

I printed a vented top riser for my X1C exactly for that heat creeping issue. Unless I'm printing ASA, ABS,.. I always have the top vented and the door cracked opened. That improved the print surfaces quality a lot.

Oh yes.

I'm sorry how is this a hell of an option for peak performance and industrial application??? First of all industrial application usually means printing with not so printing friendly filaments like pa and such. They are never printed at speeds higher than 5mm3/s cause they lose strength otherwise so having a giant heater is pointless, and only adds weight. Even abs is recommended to be printed at that speed. More is only plausible for PLA and PETG. Secondly with those behemoth of a fans on the printhead im wondering why not just strap a car turbocharger turbine? Its just a teeny-tiny bit heavier and provides a lot more thrust, you can even blow the part off after printing. Its not like having an extra kilo or two on the accelerating part makes it perform worse. I must be tripping.... Don't even get me started on the 6 bolts of rigidity of the radiator.... Jokes aside if you actually want a high performance printhead, you shold use nema 14, orbiter like feeder, cool it with cpap assembly and trusty 'ol e3d volcano for industrial application, and maybe a Goliath if you want to print PLA at 200mm/s

Wow. Someone at Bambu really shat the bed with that name...