Microwave Oven Blowing fuse as soon as plugged in

[@repsolal]

awesome ! Micro blew 4 fuses in the last few months...... worked for a few weeks inbetween. Today it failed and kept blowing the fuse as soon as I plugged it in. Found this video, checked the door switches and one had failed. Found replacements on amazon. A $15 repair rather than an expensive service call 👍

[@Truckingtowardsfreedom]

Was it blowing the breaker once you plug in the outlet?

[@yurisemeniuk4673]

My brother! Thank you for your video. Because of this video I saved so much $$$$$. Now that covid-19 is shutting everything down and to get someone to my house would be impossible. And having kids and wife use the microwave it saved us lol. Honestly, I do lots of research on KZbin, however you have proven to me as my #1 now. My unit is Bosch oven and microwave in one. Paid large for it and because of you, saved large! Thank you 🙏!!!!

[@Karthor.]

This might explain why my Microwave pops the main fuse sometimes when i close the door, thanks for the video!

[@12voltvids]

Yes exactly.

[@sargetester99]

Thanks for explaining it again for those of us that missed it the 1st time

[@habdman]

Damn just discovered your channel, good stuff man!

[@edparker9837]

Excellent video. I watched several because my microwave pops the fuse as soon as it is plugged in. From watching your video, I understand why. I saw several saying it is the door switch (which I will check those tomorrow) but you explain WHY the switch fails and not just how to replace. Knowing WHY is just as important as HOW to replace it. Excellent work. Subscriber now!

[@markmarkofkane8167]

Meowcrowaves are the best. Enjoyed the video. Educational. The points on that switch reminds me of contacts of "points" in old car distributors. Yes, and having microwave ovens over a range top is not a good idea. Not only the heat, but all that humidity from steam.

[@davidbrewer8309]

Having a similar issue.my whirlpool over the range is 10 years old qnd recently started blowing fuses the minute i plugged it in. I'll check my switches. Thank you for the good video sir

[@claytevebaugh1100]

For those of you with the same issue with the door catch bracket that has worn out. I used an ABS slurry to “paint on” some additional plastic to repair that part. Worked great and saved me $30-40 for a whole replacement bracket. Acetone and melted some spare legos is all it took.

[@MrRondonmon]

The biggest problem with these switches is opening up the Microwave while its still runner, that shoots a small current through the switches and eventually casses one or both to stick open, usually the one that closes first.

[@fisqual]

Mine ended up being the switch holder. Without your commentary I don't know if I would have noticed the worn latch guides! I've only had this thing for TWO YEARS and it's already worn excessively. I had my previous Whirlpool microwave for almost 8 years and it still worked when i got rid of it! (although the finish was peeling off of the handle).

[@12voltvids]

Yes ended up ordering the part and changing it. Took 2 months to arrive.

[@mrpedrodrodriguezsr7628]

I did repair my mother in law microwave with the info in this video ! Thanks.

[@rolandsequeira]

I am sure you must have got a "good time" from your wife after that.

[@danmackintosh6325]

First word out my mouth when I saw the title was "crowbar"... Only because of a previous video where you explained how the dual door switches work though so thanks :)

[@danmackintosh6325]

White balance, yeah I thought you looked cold haha

[@12voltvids]

A crowbar is an over voltage protection device. Can be as simple as a zener diode set to the maximum voltage in low current applications. In high power devices a SCR triggered by a zener is usually what is used in DC circuits. In more elaborate circuits the SCR would energize and latch a relay with the circuit wired to the normally closed contacts. Once the zener activates the SCR triggers latches the relay to the NO contacts and removed power from the NC and your power is interrupted until he SCR is reset.

[@danmackintosh6325]

And this is why you have a subscriber in me! I knew it wasn't quite right to say crowbar, but couldn't think why lol. I just imagined it as a crowbar forcing the fuse to blow instead of the user's face getting roasted. I'll digest this reply & correct my terminology, thanks.

[@tadmikowsky7520]

Sweet, just mine working! Thanks so much for posting this man!! Not the same exact problem here, but very similar. On mine, the fuse was blowing when the microwave was turned on. This vid led me to check the switches. On mine, the monitor switch was just a bit jammed up (stuck down) - pressing it a few times w/a screw driver got it working/springy again. I tested w/a multi-meter and continuity was working as expected, after that, plugged things back in, back in business. 😎👍

[@crystaltears9703]

Thanks, your video came up first and was exactly the same fault as in my oven. Coincidence or not it was exactly what I needed. Thanks again.

[@mikeclegg6759]

GOOD STUFF - Very easy to fully understand problem

[@sweetmemories4448]

Thanks for a great video that has diagnosis, repair as well as circuit schematic explaining the failure of the microwave followed by demonstration of the success of the repair. Hats off to you, Sir.

[@kreal3218]

Checked all my interlock switches and fine. It was blowing the breaker and I would reset it and work until next time. It now has no power at all. Is it the fuse in the microwave? I did now replace all my switches. I also seen it could be the assembly is worn down.

[@ZachsGarage1]

Really good video! Had the exact same switch fail on my 2 year old microwave! your video helped me figure out how to diagnose the problem and fix it, Thanks!

[@Titanic901]

\You nailed it. Was able to repair mine by finding a comparable microwave on Craigslist and using for parts. Thanks.

[@buixote]

Any tips for "saggy doors"? I looked for some adjustments to the hinge mounts, but couldn't find any... top hinge seems esp. loose... a bushing, perhaps?

[@12voltvids]

We used to change the entire hinge

[@kevinjohnson2522]

This was EXACTLY my problem, thanks very much!

[@malcolm4200]

I have this exact same problem Breaker blowing as soon as i plug it in, so i should check out the door switches first, thanks for this info it will be very helpful to me.

[@nohandlexyz]

Is it cheaper to buy a new microwave? I have the same issue. Wondering how much a switch costs.

[@alfredoalvarez1510]

Question, I had a bad OTR microwave and replaced with a new one. Then I checked the old one and find out the fuse was blown. Then a week passed and now the new one is not working. Any idea of what happened here? Thanks!

[@hbf8083]

This is awesome!!! The comment you made about both contacts needing to hit at the same time solved my problem. I noticed that the plastic mount holding the two door contacts was push back on the bottom after 8 years of use. I realigned it and tighten it down and PERFECTO!!! Thanks for your vid!!!

[@The_Original_Forrest_Trump]

It’s kinda of an over engineered design to prevent silly people from operating the oven with the door open.

[@The_Original_Forrest_Trump]

Actually one has to activate just before the other does so if that is not happening due to a bad first switch or a loose switch assembly it can blow fuses when you open the door.

[@maniadoc1]

Thank you for explaining in such a detail. That drawing was super helpful.

[@SagarinForbes]

thank for video .that is same microwave as ge.very common issue with them .the problem is the latch body itself has worn out that you can see in the video causing the middle switch or monitor switch not to open up and short. ge recommended to change out latch body ,middle switch and door hook. if not it will happen again due to worn out latch and hook.

[@Noonecares10021]

I thought the door switches were my issue as to why the fuse keeps blowing as I have the same model. I replaced all 3 switches and the black switch mount , door hook. Tested all switches with door open and closed. Still blows the fuse after buttoned up and turned on.

[@PeterWightman-f3v]

Great video! Our MCO1610WF blows the fuse when the door is opened. All normal until then. Likely a primary switch fault? Are the top and bottom switches both primary and the third secondary?

[@12voltvids]

On most the primary it top and secondary is one if the bottom. The second bottom switch stops the timer when you open the door. The secondary is a normally closed switch. The primary and timer normally open.

[@robertcruz1532]

thank you for that diagnosis ,.. love that plug trick

[@zx8401ztv]

Sorry for the late viewing, my internet has been dead since last night to 11 in the morning today :-(. Speedy repair :-) My knowedge on microwave cookers is minimal, the anode of the magnitron is tied to negative (same as earth in the uk)and the cathode is connected to a negative voltage created by a high power/voltage diode and capacitor. That 5kv transformer/diode/capacitor makes the red alert bulb lightup, i dont like being zapped lol. That shorting safety switch is the most important one.

[@AThreeDogNight]

Your power was out too?? Mine was out for quite a while, from storms, I guess, not certain because it didn't go out until like an hour or more after the storm had passed.

[@zx8401ztv]

A Three Dog Night The difference in my case is it wasn't the power that went out, the isp service just failed. Virgin media internet is a pain for having problems :-(

[@AThreeDogNight]

@@zx8401ztv, Oh, OK then.

[@benjaminawat6458]

Nice video, Its great man!

[@azdesertnews7563]

Thhx good info blew 2 fuses and knew something was wrong.

[@HackMasterBlaster]

What if your switches are good but you still get continuity at the plug with the door closed?

[@DavideRizzotti]

Can you please explain why this system is better than having two normally open switches in series? Thanks

[@isettech]

To prevent the microwave from operating while the door is open, most do have an upper and lower door switch. Sometimes a broken or stuck latch, stuck switch, etc will prevent the switch from operating. The final switch is this "Monitor" switch that shorts the line only when the other switches do not open first. Sometimes a bad door alignment (do you slam the door?) will trip this switch first. This shorting switch sometimes stay welded shorted, but this is not a fault of the switch. It means it did it's job and the oven needs properly serviced for safety. The other switches have failed. All 3 need changes as a set as the first two failed and the 3rd protected you.

[@eDoc2020]

With two normally open switches in series both will be passing and breaking current so the contacts will get worn and have a higher chance of getting welded together (which would defeat the safety.) The normally closed monitor switch, on the other hand, never handles any current unless there is a fault, so its contacts will stay pristine.

[@validefy]

Thanks for showing us how to troubleshoot with meter

[@SamunlocksNet]

Hey so I replaced the switch that was sticking, and also the fuse but when I close the door, it’s still blowing the fuse.

[@12voltvids]

Did you replace both switches? The primary and secondary switch need to be changed in pairs. Top one is a NO switch and bottom is a NC switch. There is a 3rd one also at the lower latch which is a NO switch. That is the timer stop switch. That one is generally ok.

[@SamunlocksNet]

@@12voltvids my bottom switch was sticking, like when I pressed, there was no click, so I only replaced that. Top two click fine, however as soon as I open the door it blows the fuse.

[@freeson435]

Is there any reason why removing/unplugging the monitor interlock from the circuit would prevent the microwave from running? Of course, just from a testing perspective. Seems to me if it was unplugged, circuit should would not short and 'act' as normally open. TIA.

[@12voltvids]

If you unplug the safety interlock it will run. Thus us the normally closed switch that opens when it is pushed in. The other switch to it, the normally open switch shuts off the timer. The safety short switch does that, puts a dead short across the line to blow the fuse.

[@mikara9]

I prefer this intro :-D

[@JasonHalversonjaydog]

how come they fail more often over a gas range compared to electric? what's the difference?

[@12voltvids]

Heat. Gas ranges produce a ton of heat. That is why people with gas ranges have big exhaust fans. Not only is there the steam from what is cooking there is the heat from the open flame. That heat heats up the bottom of these over the range units, and when you heat up the metal, and there is plastic inside what do you think happens to plastic when you heat it. I'll give you a hint, it gets soft and can warp. I would NEVER install a microwave over a gas range. An electric or induction cook top, the only heat is from the steam, and well steam won't be more than 100'C or 212'F. The heat from the gas is much hotter than that.

[@mrsemifixit]

Is the capacitor after the transformer going to the magnatron in series? Is that for phase shifting?

[@Inflec]

No. It is there to act as a voltage doubler in concert with the diode and magnetron.

[@alexbratok1]

Thank you! Fixed my MW , no replacement needed ")))

[@acrossphilippines6338]

Sir..while watching your video...I have planned of heating my Burger to my microwave.. It just happened.. That my microwave..makes a large noise..not the normal...and I stop immediately... I switch off..then try it again..its the same..and when I stopped it again..I smell something like burned...but the unit I still on have lights..etc..no blown fuse or whatsoever...what do you think is the problem... Thank you sir

[@12voltvids]

Possibly hv diode, hv capacitor or magnetron has developed a short

[@acrossphilippines6338]

@@12voltvids thank you...I'm afraid of the noise though.. It sounds like a fridge compressor when cooling

[@drama8917]

There is one middle butten on mine that doesnt want to pish its (NC) but cant push it in on (NO) no matter how hard i push. Help me please. Is that the fault

[@annaservices4725]

what a intelligent finDing... Great Sir

[@pennysnow6162]

Hi, I pushed 'START' & my microwave sounded like 'Womp' !!!! I thought it was fuse so I slipped in a new 20A. The microve lite up, I set the clock, put in a cup of water, set the time, Pressed 'GO' and 'WAMP'!!! It blew the fuse again. Checked breaker and all was fine. So, any suggestions? Or do I just toss-it out. : - D

[@12voltvids]

Could be a number of things. First is it a conventional microwave or is it an inverter type? If it is a conventional microwave and it's blowing the fuse when you turn it on the good chance the problem is the capacitor has shorted. When the high voltage cap fails it shorts which will overload the circuit and blow the fuse. It could also be the magnetron that's gone bad. You can test the capacitor by disconnecting the two leads going to the capacitor and measuring it with a meter if it's measuring 0 ohms it's shorted internally and that is your problem if the capacitor tests good then it could be the magnetron. Disconnect the magnetron leads if when you turn it on it makes a lot of noise and blows the fuse the stack diode to be bad. If it doesn't make a lot of noise and doesn't blow the fuse then the magnetron has a short and will need to be replaced. Magnetron it's one of the more expensive parts in a microwave but I've bought them for as little as $30. They'll generally be either the capacitor or the magnetron that's gone bad but a game you can test the capacitor if it's shorted that's your fault.

[@richardhendry361]

after watching your explanation of the purpose of each of the switches i was able to figure out why mine was tripping breaker when opening the door even though the swicthes all checked ok. i always grab the handle at the bottom and jerk it open which over time has caused the shorting switch to activate a spit second before the top switch was opening. after your explanation (which i couldnt find anywhere else btw) i went out and grabbed the handle at the top and yanked it open and voila no breaker tripped!!!!

[@lalkahandawa8923]

Thanks, very good, simple explantion .

[@patalbert1256]

Im having issues pulling the switches out. Any suggestions on how else to get them out?

[@glenngoodale1709]

Enjoyed the video. Educational

[@teacfan1080]

I still have my 1997 Sharp 1000 Watt counter top microwave still going strong. My door doesn't have a handle. You have to push a large button at the bottom of the control panel and it swings open. I plan to keep this microwave as long as it will nuke my dinner.

[@kiwishbj1]

I still have the same one too. Sharp microwave with a push open button for the door. 1998 model. Clean quiet and strong 💪.?? With automatic popcorn timer.

[@jorgedavidoviedo7940]

Where you can get the switch

[@Alftrader]

Hi i did change both switches, and works but after a couples uses turn off the breaker i dnt know what t do.

[@sdiburro1]

I having a problem with my microwave too when I try to put time in and turn it on it just makes clicking sounds the timer is still counting down what is wrong with it

[@12voltvids]

Could be the top primary interlock switch is not closing, or the relay that actually turns the power on and off to the magnetron is not working. That's about the only thing. If the fan comes on when you hit start you can rule out the top switch, and then it is pointing to the relay on the timer board, but if the fan doesn't start when you hit start, then most likely it is the primary interlock which in this unit is the top switch.

[@sdiburro1]

12voltvids where can I buy those switch for it it’s a kenmore how much are they

[@12voltvids]

@@sdiburro1 Any appliance repair place should be able to help you. If not digikey or mouser will definitely carry them. The part number is usually printed on the switch.

[@GeorgeGeorge-xj2bc]

I think that the contacts of the driving relay for microwave lamp along with the internal tension spring sometimes need checking also because the contacts burned and remain stuck and the lamp keeps working without any other noticable sign.Once had this problem with the capacitor blown and the gears of the mechanical timer worn just because the relay contacts didnt open and the timer motor kept working along with the RF lamp in silent and melted the facing plastics until the capacitors short circuit.

[@Deqster]

My problem was similar. One of the nc switches was bogus. Thank you!

[@marcdich9066]

notice the distinct sound of the magnetron as it fires up? its the sound of a good mag and cap and hv diode

[@asifrana5392]

please tell me that can we replace bad transformer with good transformer of any other microwave oven???

[@12voltvids]

Most conventional microwave transformers are interchangeable

[@asifrana5392]

@@12voltvids Thank you

[@FuzzyWuzzyBear89]

Is this repair something that could cause a shock? In other words, does the capacitor need to be drained? Gonna try this repair myself but I'm a little afraid..

[@kamallasrikanth1307]

Sir when my micro Owen continuously fuse blowing so I replaced new fuse and checked continuously it's getting buzzer sounds so next step i checked continuty no buzzer in cable cord what's the problem

[@12voltvids]

Check the switches. If not switches and it blows as soon as you start likely hv capacitor. This only applies to conventional microwave not inverter type. If inverter type then inverter is likely bad.

[@rolandodimaano292]

Where can I buy that microwave door switch?

[@steve-951]

On my microwave the fuse pops while the microwave is not being used. Twice now I notice the fuse blown in the morning. And I know during the night the microwave was not used. What do you think that could be?

[@12voltvids]

Probably a bad door switch or the bracket that the switches sit in has warped.

[@enufots4621]

What would the schematic look like with 3 switches? Seems like nowadays many microwave uses 3 switches.

[@12voltvids]

3rd switch just to tell the controller that the door is open and to stop the timer. 2 interlock switches one for power and the monitor switch

[@enufots4621]

@@12voltvids Wait a minute, your microwave does have 3 switches.

[@12voltvids]

@@enufots4621 sure does. 2 side by side on the bottom and one up top.

[@gozzy25]

Excellent job 👏 👍

[@Strib420]

Good stuff. I have the same unit. I saw an arch when opening the door (arch was at the top of the door). It tripped the breaker and blew the fuse. Change the fuse out and it powers up, but trips the breaker once I start to run it. Plan on learning how to test the lines and finding where the short is. Any thoughts? Powers up, but trips once it start warming.

[@12voltvids]

Change the primary and secondary interlock switches.

[@Strib420]

@@12voltvids Talking Greek to me on primary and secondary. I did test the continuity and found that the switch you replaced had the same issue. The meter showed zeros even when I pressed the button. Any ideas on where to get the switch? I'd hate to get the wrong one. I'm guessing they are different since some sit open and some sit closed. You're awesome by the way.

[@Strib420]

@@12voltvids I think I found it. I ordered a package. Cracked the one of the bottom ones open and it was soldered together. Will update once I repair. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D8J6J2T/ref=crt_ewc_img_srh_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A84ISXLWKDMPW

[@12voltvids]

@@Strib420 primary is the top one on most microwave. It is open normally and closes when you push the button in. The secondary is the lower interlock and it is normally closed (shorted) and opens when you push the button in. The secondary switch job is to dead short the mains if the primary switch sticks closed. When you open the door the first thing that happens is the primary or top switch opens before the door starts to open then as the door opens the secondary or bottom switch closes this way if the primary switch does not open say it's jammed with dirt or debris the secondary switch will put a dead short across the line and blow the fuse

[@Strib420]

@@12voltvids Thx. I saw your diagram on how it diverts the flow if the switch fails. I ordered three to replace all as you suggested. In my case, it seemed as if I was not deliberate in opening the microwave (opened from the top) and there was an arch up top between the door and the panel when it popped. I will make sure to pull deliberately from the middle. I'm now a subscriber. :-)

[@whatsin5335]

Thank you, I was in the right direction but one of the switches was flipped so as soon as a put a fuse in an plugged it in the fuse would blow.

[@russellhunter3274]

Hi, and thanks for this video. I have this exact microwave and it's tripping the circuit breaker every time you run the microwave. I purchased all 3 new switches for the door and changed them out, but unfortunately it's still tripping the breaker. I think either it must be something else, or it could be the latch assembly that holds the switches. When I took out the old switches, I think I broke off the little lever that holds the switch in place with the screwdriver. Is that piece located on the latch assembly to hold the switches in place? Do you think it would be worthwhile to replace the latch? I've spent almost $100 on this microwave and it's still not working, so I'm reluctant to spend more if it won't be fixed. Thanks in advance for any help!

[@philhui3773]

Thank you for the information great video !

[@aaroneskandar4777]

I could really use your help. I have a 2 year old microwave and the thermal fuse as well as the internal fuse continues to blow. My wife opened the door to the microwave before the timer was finished and it lost the power. By adding a new internal fuse it regains the power but when you press start on the microwave it immediately loses all power again and blows the fuse. After further investigation I found that one of the thermal fuses was bad. I replaced it and replaced the internal fuse and it worked great for a couple of weeks. My wife opened the door again the other day before the timer was finished and now it has no power and the thermal fuse as well as the internal fuse is blown again. What could be causing this. Thanks in advance for your help.

[@moviebod]

Very interesting. I had a microwave oven that was wrecked by a "kidult" recently. He always used to slam the door and the switch (I can now tell) must have given up the ghost. I bought the same microwave again, so I will have a go at fixing it next time. as he is still living with us.

[@12voltvids]

Kidult hahahaha I have 2 of those living here, and yes they tend to slam things. At least both my kidults have jobs and pay rent, so I just keep my mouth shut and hope they hand around a little longer. I have a friend that has one about 10 years older than mine that refuses to get a job, sleeps all day, plays video games all night. What happens when you slam the door is you can "bounce" the contacts, and if they are both in the closed position for even a millisecond, well, you know what happens then.

[@stefanmarinescu5086]

Nice. That's pro mode :)

[@TheBestPersonYouKnow]

Good video. I was able to get my microwave working again, but if I open the door while it's running it blows the internal fuse and throws the circuit breaker. Obviously this suggests the switches on the door latches aren't disengaging at precisely the same time, but how can I determine if there's too much play in the door (there is some up and down play when I try moving it with my hands, but not sure what's and acceptable amount) or if there's an issue with the bracket that holds the switches?

[@TheSrlost]

I have the same problem, did you ever figure out a fix?

[@pillsberrydopeboy851]

Will the microwave screen be completely blank if it’s a switch issue?

[@12voltvids]

A switch issue that causes a blown fuse certainly will.

[@pillsberrydopeboy851]

12voltvids so if I replace the blown fuse the screen should show up? I pushed a switch in all the way and trying to get it unstuck I think I blew a fuse. Would I need a new switch too? Replaced the fuse and the screen is still blank. Don’t know if I just got a bad new fuse

[@12voltvids]

@@pillsberrydopeboy851 Typically if the short switch triggers it will weld the contacts together and will need replacing. Otherwise you will blow the fuse as soon as you close the door.

[@pillsberrydopeboy851]

12voltvids the short switch is the bottom one? Do both need replacing? The screen didn’t even come on for the fuse to blow again so idk what the issue is exactly

[@Kay_7777]

Great video. Is it usually worth fixing vs. buying a new one?

[@carlosquiahua1614]

This microwave has only two switches?

[@12voltvids]

It has 3. One is to stop the timer when the door opens. One is primary interlock avs then there is the short/ monitor / safety that shorts the line to neutral if the primary interlock fails to open first.

[@HackMasterBlaster]

One of my switches was bad so I just replaced it and made sure it works but I’m still getting a short (continuity) at the plug when the door is closed. If I open it it goes away like I’m the beginning of the vid. Also blows the fuse as soon as it’s plugged in.

[@HackMasterBlaster]

Just realized I installed the wrong switch. Needed a normally closed but mistakenly put in a normally closed.

[@kentanrem]

@@HackMasterBlaster Look at schematic diagram on the body of the oven. Before doing anything.

[@igotstoknow2]

My oven's panel was good but it wouldn't turn on the nuke. A bad switch tested good but it didn't work as well as the other switches. I took the bad switch's cover off and found the lower contact slipped down a little that made the switch movement weak. I corrected the problem and sanded the internal contacts with fine sandpaper. The oven now works. $0 cost. If it happens again I'll epoxy the lower contact in place to keep it from moving down. My cheap Emerson was made in 2005 and works as good as new now after the fix.

[@areg6068]

hello, just saw you video and im having problems with my microwave as well. (i have the same one you have over there in the video) right from the begining I found that my microwave didnt show any continuity (1:04) (my fuse was blown but I replace it before doing that test). Later on I found a bad micro switch (the midle one) I replaced it, after that the microwave still wasnt able to show continuity, but was working ok tho. I leaved it like that and test it for a few days and by the 3rd day, blow the fuse again. I dont know what its happening

[@MIW_Renegade]

I had to fix my microwave today. Apparently the primary switch had flipped it’s role 😂 I knew something wasn’t right there lol

[@MuhammadIqbal-sq2dl]

Thanks for the video, but my microwave cause circuit breaker to trip after running for some time and not by opening or closing the door, Its tried at different outlets but causeing the breaker to trip after few seconds. Any solution please?

[@dalebabbitt6185]

I'm thinking of the spring for the door latches wasn't so stout a lot of these problems never would've occurred. It takes a moose to open the door in all these affected models.

[@Reboot12345678910]

I changed all the door switches on my crappy over the range Frigidaire Gallery series and the ceramic fuse still blows when I close the door.

[@Eagleoneradiogod]

What I want to know is where dose he go to get a part in person without having to order it.?

[@12voltvids]

Lee's electronics stocks them

[@randy1ization]

STRONG WORK !

[@daviddelatorreperez4]

Hola my friend Greetings from México city

[@mikescott66]

I have a GE JVM3160RF3SS that appears to be nearly, if not exactly, the same construction as the one shown in this video. It suddenly started tripping the circuit breaker in our outside breaker box upon pressing start. After watching many videos, including this one, I found out that there was an easy fix that didn't involve replacing any switches. It was merely that the switch on the lower door catch had become stuck, probably due to heat, moisture, grease, etc. After simply pressing on it with a screwdriver while the door was open (no need to remove the control panel at all), it became free (started clicking) and the microwave worked again! Hope this might help someone. ;) Oh, and thanks for the tip in the video about pulling the door handle in the middle instead of the bottom - good to know!

[@12voltvids]

Once the lower switch activates once. Even though you can pry the contacts apart and make it appear to work but it may not when it is needed. If a switch has ever popped I can only say it must be replaced. Giving any other advice would be irresponsible.

[@mikescott66]

@@12voltvids We're talking about two different things. I didn't pry anything apart. I simply pressed the switch from the outside a few times until it released from whatever was keeping it from moving through its full range of motion. Then, the lower door catch was able to activate the switch again. This is not to say that the switch has much life left in it but I read plenty of other comments from other video tutorials that had the same issue and this was the easy solution. Obviously, if the switch was bad this wouldn't make a difference.

[@dwjw1]

You are saying that the switch failed when its contacts are welded together from current flowing through it? Have you ever proven that the switch will cause the fuse to blow if the other switch is actuated when the door is open? That sounds absolutely crazy! Isn't it more likely that something caused too much current to flow in the switch so it failed?

[@12voltvids]

It has nothing to do with current flow. The system is designed so the primary switch is open, before the short switch closes. If both end up closed at the same time there will be a dead short and the result is welded contacts. Now how can this happen? Weak spring in switch causing contacts to close, excess dirt and grime causing switch to stick, but most common is some idiot slamming the door shut and causing the contacts to bounce.

[@dwjw1]

@@12voltvids Sorry it has everything to do with current flow. The switch contacts are welded together. That only happens when too much current flows through them. And that is precisely what happens when the one switch fails open or closed with the other in the wrong position. The power is momentarily connected directly to the other switch which is connected to the neutral - bam - short circuit and a minimum of 15 amps through the switch - probably much more! This is an outrageous design in my book. Almost anyone other system would use the switches on a positive lock so the one goes and so does the other - there has to be a better way than to overdraw the power supply to make sure that the switch is also destroyed. I tried hooking mine to the other terminal, but then the door is seen as open when the switch is active (door is closed) so I think it is wired right as it was intended and does exactly as you stated. If the switches are not in sync, the main power is connected to the neutral and it pops. If one happens to be on a c/b, this trips the c/b rather than the 20 amp fuse, if the fuse is a good slow blow, it might not be damaged by that, but the switch even if rated for 25 or 30 amps will not take that - the pads are too small and will overheat/arc and weld them shut. The rating of the switch is meant for switching on or off, not for continuous operation in short circuit conditions until a breaker or fuse blows. I am just totally taken aback by this type of design. And that doesn't even consider the transients that the high currents put into the system with those ICs and the like - they are asking for trouble.

[@12voltvids]

@@dwjw1 The whole point is they want the switches to be destroyed. It is not a bad design. It is designed so that if the primary switch sticks closed for any reason. Grease / dirt build up, someone slamming the door, switch failure, some idiot sticking a screwdriver in the top slot to try to make the unit come on with the door open, the secondary switch has a dead short on the main to blow the fuse and or trip the breaker. This will blow the switches. This is designed as a 1 time operation which will render the unit safe. That is why they call it a fail safe. The last thing you want happening is to open the door to your microwave and the magnetron stay energized and expose you to high power microwave radiation. As you are arguing about the design indicates to everyone reading this that you have absolutely no clue about how these things work and why they are designed like this. The point is to render the unit inoperable and throwing a crowbar across the supply will guarantee that the unit has no power. No consideration is given for collateral damage. Only concern is making sure the unit is dead. Better a dead microwave than exposing you to high power microwaves that will cause serious harm to your health.

[@enufots4621]

Why does my microwave intermittently blow the fuse when the door is opened? It was not even being used. I pulled open the door and was about to put some food in. Haven't even press "Start" yet! Checked all 3 switches with the connectors removed from the connectors - all good!

[@timka880057]

I had a microwave light my face up after i tried fixing it. Something was wrong with it not heating, then all of a sudden it started heating outside the microwave. my face was red for a few days. The door was closed when it ran, then it started smoking.... I didn't mess with one after that.

[@mrnmrn1]

Then you are very lucky you're not blind by now. High power microwave energy can cause serious eye injury almost instantaneously, and blindness in a few seconds, as it heats up the liquid in the eye very quickly, because there are no veins in there to transfer the heat away with the blood circulation.

[@timka880057]

@@mrnmrn1 I'm not blind yet thank God. I have to wear glasses though.

[@charleswhite5730]

Well I was going to try to fix my mom's but now I'm not to sure. So you nucked your self. Do you have any special powers.do you glow under a black light. Or spit acid. That shit ain't funny.

[@jimgow4991]

Just to clarify. In which position (top or bottom) do the "Normally Open" and "Normally Closed" switches go?

[@12voltvids]

In most microwaves the top switch is the primary interlock and the bottom is the safety monitor or short switch. Just remember this. The switch connected with the NO and Common is the primary and the switch connected with the NC and Common is the short switch. The switch with the small wires going to the timer board is to stop the timer from counting when the door is opened.

[@randy1ization]

do they use time delay fuses

[@12voltvids]

They use a ABC fuse which is a slow blo fuse.

[@randy1ization]

@@12voltvids even after checking my micro switches bracket, door alignment, it still pops my fuse as soon as I try to microwave something,, display comes on fine, but then it pops after I try to heat up coffee.

[@12voltvids]

@@randy1ization if conventional microwave with big transformer it will likely be the big HV capacitor has shorted.

[@randy1ization]

@@12voltvids my capacitor has a plastic housing, so how can I tell if its shorted to the case? I have a fieldpiece capacitor tester.

[@12voltvids]

@@randy1ization ohm meter across the terminals. Disconnect wires first. If it says 0 ohms it is shorted. If says open then it is good. You can disconnect wires from magnetron and see if it blows fuse. If not then magetron is shorted. Only few things will blow fuse when start cooking. If not short switch it will be capacitor or stack diode or magnetron. This is for non inverter types. If it is an inverter Panasonic then the inverter or magnetron. Inverter boards are extremely dangerous to work on because they generate about 4200 volts and enough current to do serious damage. I won't work on them myself and would never make a video for inverter repair due to the extreme hazard in servicing them. Panasonic didn't even want service centers fixing them. They sold them as a complete replacement part.

[@UFOHunting]

Hi, just watched you video and I noticed the drum cooling fan at the back of the microwave was not working, did anyone else notice this ???

[@12voltvids]

That fan is not a cooling fan. This is an over the range microzapper, and as such has an exhaust fan to suck out all the smells and steam of what is cooking on the stove, and it is controlled by a fan button on the control panel.Had I pressed the button to turn the exhaust fan on, it would have come on. The cooling fan for the microwave is on the right side behind the magnetron. and transformer.

[@UFOHunting]

Ok thanks for that. Keep up the good work. Steve from the UK

[@t0nito]

I never understood why North America uses those over the range microwaves, those are virtually non existent in Europe, I've been inside many homes as I'm an electrician, and never seen one ever, nor find any at a store. What are the advantages? I think they become to high for practicality.

[@12voltvids]

People want more counter space I guess. I dont like them myself. Too much heat and moisture over the stove .

[@buixote]

Yes, and they're not really a good height, esp for heavy items, or liquid that can spill. I agree that it's the counter space that folks are after... Over the range units are also noisier; because they're attached to the cabinetry, the "thunk" that happens when they close is transmitted more reliably through the structure of the building.

[@ThatOneTruckGuy]

I am in the us and I have an LG countertop microwave. In fact, a lot of people in the US have countertop microwaves.

[@12voltvids]

@@ThatOneTruckGuy I have 2 countertop microwaves. One is a straight microwave and the other a convection microwave. I would never put one over the range as I have gas and that is asking for trouble

[@joecaponi8511]

Subscribed well done man! I have a GE spacemaker overhead, the 20A fuse behind the display board was blown, I changed that the micro works for like 10 seconds then pops the fuse again any suggestion? Thanks much

[@12voltvids]

Check the HV capacitor between the transformer and magnetron.

[@joecaponi8511]

@@12voltvids I thought it was a compensator my uncle's old tube TV made that noise and that's what it was! Is that a easy repair?

[@igotstoknow2]

I hate the beeps, so I found the piezo noise maker and I pulled the center contact off - no more annoying beeps.

[@12voltvids]

So then how do you know when it is done? Sit and watch for the thing to stop turning and the light to go out. What is the light is burned out.

[@frankmontez6853]

Does anyone think a cut wire to the outlet will fry the microwave if it's plugged in ? I really don't think so and I checked the fuse it's good

[@wolfy1]

Fascinating! I wish I knew how to use the meter tho so I can fix mine.

[@Strib420]

Fairly easy. I just used this and was able to nail it. Read the part about understanding the results. Mine shows OL or zeros. I guess OL is open line. Basically zeros is a good connection. www.wikihow.com/Test-Continuity-with-a-Multimeter

[@matthewbestdfghy]

I always knew there were multiple safety interlock switches in a microwave. I did not know there was one that direct short line and neutral I will have to remember that.

[@12voltvids]

Yes definately. Fail safe. Called different things by different manufactures. Monitor switch, short switch, failsafe, secondary interlock. Every microwave over will have at least 1. Some of the older ones had 2. One on the door hooks and a second one on the hinge on the other side to trip if the hinge broke.

[@uK8cvPAq]

What's it for, to reduce the chance of the magnetron becoming energized in the event of a door failure?

[@12voltvids]

@@uK8cvPAq Not to reduce the chance of the magnetron being energized, but to eliminate any chance of that happening. A dead short will blow the fuse and kill the power

[@reneofngol2398]

Thanks sir. But the microwave were repairing is only blowing the fuse when we start to on the microwave, what could be the problem sir?? Tnx sir

[@tadmikowsky7520]

Year later, but hopefully this helps someone. I had the same problem - fuse blew when starting. On mine, the monitor switch was stuck down and i just had to unstick by pushing it in a few times (yes, it will likely need replaced soon). Basically u just need to check continuity (via multi-meter) on all 3 switches and make sure they're behaving :)

[@tadmikowsky7520]

Welp I'm back. 4 months later.. Stuck monitor switch again. 😑 I realized the plastic hook-shaped piece that protrudes from the door is wobbly and does not press the monitor switch firmly enough. Another round of switches and fuses, plus a carefully placed bit of heat shrink tube around the end of the door hook. It has been working for a few weeks with no problems. Would not recommend my lazy fix to anyone, ever. Not really sure why I'm typing this at all actually. Perhaps this microwave has pushed me into a state of questioning all things broken or not. A sad and disappointing failure of modern engineering.. Yeah, think this recent round of microwave repairs had the side effect of breaking my mind and faith in humanity. My only hope is that there is enough spare bits of stuff nearby to kluge together something that will make reality make sense for another month or two.

[@stanpatterson5033]

What might be the worst that could happen if you had simply doctored up the old switch and re-used it? I'm just thinking that with the above-average chance that the thing will be turfed out soon, why invest in a new switch plus the drive to go get one? If it wasn't something that would be a shock hazard or a firestarter, I'd have taken the chance that it would have functioned for another few years of service.

[@eDoc2020]

The worst case is the switch doesn't close when it is actually needed, causing the unit to run with the door open and injuring you. It's part of the safety circuit, so it is not the place to use something marginal.