Miele bearings update, what next?

[@johnhall642]

I had a similar problem several years ago on a 1943 vintage diesel engine with an undersize crankshaft. (I am assuming that the bearing Dia is larger than the upper part of the shaft). Your best bet is to clean up the bearing surface on the shaft as best you can, ( preferably in a lathe, without going below the upper part of the shaft Dia). Measure the shaft Dia and have a sleeve machined to be an interference fit to the shaft Dia,, to the correct length and to suit the bearing ID (remember that the sleeve is an interference fit, but the bearing has to be tapped onto it). When you get the sleeve, heat it up to cherry red and IMMEDIATLELY drive it down the shaft to the bearing location (once you start you have to keep going), (alternatively leave the sleeve OD oversize and machine it once it has cooled). The alternative to this, is to locate a company that supply ready-made thin wall sleeves that you can select to suit both bearing ID and the cleaned-up bearing OD. They come with a purpose made drift to assist in driving the sleeve into position-it is a one-way procedure, they go on OK but taking them off again is virtually impossible. The case I mentioned at the beginning was done using this method, some considerable time ago and is sill as good as when it was fitted. John Hall

[@matthewbrown5677]

Thank you John....

[@MMWA-DAVE]

My 11 year old meile front loader made light grindy noises today for the first time ever on a spin cycle. I think ill order the bearings before it turns into this nightmare

[@MikeSmith-uq6uw]

Great idea,too much is dumped nowadays.

[@matthewbrown5677]

Were did you order from.

[@MMWA-DAVE]

@@matthewbrown5677 eBay, fyi, still have not changed them. I did the self cleaning cycle 95c and its been fine ever since. It was probably a build up of scum.

[@lennyl3843]

Get someone to machine a sleeve for the shaft. Should be a couple of minutes of work for a metal shop and shouldn't be too expensive.

[@enra72]

I would have tried JB weld I have seen someone use this on a crankshaft and its still holding up

[@bootsowen]

Might have been the right thing

[@ianrs4685]

rthat cast iron bit on the back is amazing i've got mine in bits lol

[@MikeSmith-uq6uw]

I am of the opinion that a good clean shaft,that is then dot punched in numerous spots around the bearing sitting region would work fine.Obviously too much impact is not wanted,but lots of dot mark's will rescue the bearing shaft damage.Perhaps locktight can also be used....I am an ex electrician/Marine Engineer.I dont know it all!

[@bootsowen]

It may well have worked. But this shaft was very rough and while a machine shaft might fit up nicely with some pop marks washing machines take quite a bit of abuse and unbalanced loads.

[@MikeSmith-uq6uw]

@@bootsowen Mmmm,Thanks.I saw it done fifty years ago on a crane pinion shaft,and that was very heavy load,but also had a keyway.Take care.

[@ronaldsantosjapan]

I’ve seen cam lifters have steel added via welding and then machined to the proper shape and smoothness. Like this- kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYS3YmeZr5WIZ7c A faster, easier, and cheaper fix would be knurling the bad area. Here is a vid of the very same issue bootsowen shows. A broken bearing ate into a shaft, but a bit of knurling on worn down area allows the bearing to be seated again. See it here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/ql6bhaF-ndWAZ6M Cheap, relatively very easy, and apparently very effective. (Just read the comments below that video for confirmation.)

[@SuperWasherKid2002]

Put it together and use it and see how it goes 😁

[@shahabudinparmar7502]

Hi can you take to somebody who welding tell him building up welding for you and grind the shaft make your baring fit for you on the shaft it will be cheaper

[@bootsowen]

How do you skim the shaft down again? After welding. You would need a massive lathe.

[@grandmaskeate6279]

Have you shown Miele this video with 19K views and shown the world how stupid it is not being able to buy a single part and that the single part costs nearly as much as a new Miele WM? Would you like to replace the bearings on my W715 and put on your channel?

[@denisewright7145]

I purchase a new stack Miele W3038 washing machine and the T 8023 C dryer about 5 years ago. I had one problem with the washing machine already which cost me $298.00 to repair. Now the bearings are worn out told to me by the Miele repair person, also they don't repair that problem. So this leave me to have to purchase a new washer. Went to pick one out just to find out that the new machines dosen't stack with my dryer. So I'm left to discard my perfectly working dyer to purchase two more machine. I'm finding difficulty in finding someone to repair it.Is it possible to builda rack that can work for with both machine. Live in Manhattan, NY

[@bootsowen]

it is always possible to build a rack, you can buy "universal" ones on amazon or similar. if you use my link, amzn.to/3j75uX1, or you can buy anything else through the link and support this channel! As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases

[@denisewright7145]

@@bootsowen Thank you will check it out

[@lllmmm3572]

Hoarders: Laundry Machine Edition

[@aserta]

Avoiding to pay 2k USD for plastic: the smart people who can actually wrench edition. You'd have to be stupid in the head to buy a new washing machine these days where the only metal parts are those you see.

[@pravinkansara965]

What was the outcome, did you fit the bearing and got it together how did it work

[@bootsowen]

Yes, this was a few years ago. When I took it apart the shaft was badly corroded. so I rebuilt it anyway but the bearing was still loose. This is all documented in other videos. search for Miele on my channel. thanks

[@chrisbalanda9368]

Ebay or fire pit

[@unknown070609]

...didn't read the comments, before I drafted my comment :P appears it's already been suggested but, well, read below for more detail on the drink can shim idea... "boots man, have a suggestion as to a possible way to mount a new bearing on that shaft. you're going to need; -a coke can -a scissors -some sandpaper -a tea towel -a powerful microwave procedure -sand the shaft to an acceptable finish, nothing too fancy -cut a strip of the coke can the same width as the depth of the bearing seat. -wrap the strip of cut metal around the shaft, there should be overlap. -test fit the bearing, it should not fit with the strip of metal held tight. -cut small bits off the strip of metal until the bearing is fairly close to fitting. [ it may also be necessary to thin the cut strip of metal by sanding ] -remove the strip of metal -wrap the bearing in the tea towel, making sure to cover it completely -heat in a microwave, 3 minutes at full heat might do it, start low and don't go too hard, but do get it good and hot -carefully and quickly place the bearing on the shaft -quickly but carefully place the strip of metal between the shaft and the bearing [ if it looks like heating the bearing cooked the grease, add some spray grease when all is good and cold ] The bearing should now be solidly attached to the shaft. It will not be entirely true but should work for a good long time."

[@bootsowen]

Good man John! Thanks but.... the bearings have to go into the cast iron spider first, then the oil/water seal, then the tub has to be joined to the spider. The order has to be followed, and then the shaft with the inner spider, with the drum attached is slid through the oil seal, and 2 bearings. My thoughts were with the coke can, just to pack it out, but i can't see how to get it in cos it'll be behind the oil seal. The other thought was JB weld, or "liquid metal", to build up the shaft, personally I don't think welding would be good for it because it is very close to the aluminium and the little pressed on flanged washer that makes rubs against the oil seal. then fit one of the bearings on the shaft and hold it there in the vice, so that the shaft can spin in the good bearing, then offer up the sander or grinder and this should make it true. But it is a bit of commitment for a £6.50 washing machine. As it stands I could just put it back together with one bearing, and spin it up and brick it. but it seems too good a machine to do that to. I have the professional Miele doing test washes at the moment, it seems to do a 95 degree wash in 35 mins, seems a bit too good to be true!

[@unknown070609]

Apologies for the late reply, been a little disorganized the past few days. My thought on that repair would be quite simple really. Face the bearing mounting point on the shaft using an angle grinder and a jig consisting of two pieces of wood with holes drilled in each ( grease holes, place shaft in holes and rotate while facing the shaft with the angle grinder, this should allow the spider to spin uninhibited ) ( if you could temporarily mount an old bearing to create a stop this would work even better ) . Then measure the OD of the refinished shaft and ID of the bearing to go on it, cut a bushing to that size (aluminium should be fine). Then cut this bushing in half and braze or glue it to the shaft, sand down the bushing until the bearing fits on it. then slide all into place. Possibly a reply that is a little too late but potentially useful and avoids welding.

[@bootsowen]

In the end I just bunged it back together. It is not completely loose, not the right fit either. So far I spent £21 on that machine, and a full day. Not worth investing more time. I like the machine so I might use it until it dies again. In my experience I have never worn out a washing machine from normal use.

[@mguerramd]

It's probably too late now but your bearing would have fit properly on the shaft. When you dropped it down and it was loose on the shaft, you just had it sitting on TOP of it's mounting surface, which is the slightly larger diameter shiny surface closest to the spider. Your shaft was not undersized and did not need a machined sleeve. Had you pressed it properly down on to its mounting boss, it would have fit! You could see the mounting boss was clean, shiny and intact. There was no galling and no rust. Look at the 1:44 point in the video, you have the bearing sitting a half inch or more up above the spider, just resting on the larger diameter mounting surface. Note the calcified ring on the shaft just level with the inner race. Now go back in the video before you slid the bearing on and see where that ring is! Well above the actual mounting boss for the bearing. The fact it did not slide all the way down on to its mounting surface is proof that it was the correct diameter. A bearing should not slide freely on to its boss, but require to be pressed or pulled with the appropriate force and tool. You assemble the bearings in to the big cast iron bearing cross, and press that on to the shaft with a bolt threaded in to the center of the shaft, washer and socket that is just larger than the shaft and just small enough to bear on the inner race of the outboard bearing. Darn.

[@bootsowen]

I did reassemble it in another video. It was a while ago now. I think there was something else wrong with it. If you search the model number in my videos you will see what I did with it.

[@fingusernames]

I do not believe that is the case. I have repaired our Maytag washer, with a slightly different construction. In the Maytag, the bearings and seal are pressed into the outer tub assembly which has an integral bearing carrier assembly. The outer tub needs to be split open to replace the bearings. In the Miele, the cast iron bearing carrier external to the outer tub is where the two shaft bearings are pressed in. In both cases, the face toward the inner tub has a rotary shaft seal with spring lip pressed in over the bearings. The shaft of the inner tub spider fits into the bearing carrier assembly and the shiny surface you noted is the shaft face that seals against the shaft seal to prevent water egress (in theory). The bearings are not pressed onto the spider shaft, beyond being drawn into them when the shaft nut is tightened. That pitted surface is indeed where the primary bearing fits when the assembly is in place. The destroyed bearing with significant rust is almost certainly caused by failure of the $10 shaft seal. I have replaced the bearings in our Maytag twice now. The first time, the seal was failed and in pieces, with water exiting the tub, corroding the bearing and leaking out. There was pitting corrosion on the aluminum spider. I cleaned and epoxy filled it (JB weld) and then painted it with aluminum primer and appliance enamel. After a couple years, it started to get noisy so I replaced the bearings and seal. This time, interestingly, rather than water leaking out, bearing grease had coated the interior of the outer tub. The shaft was loose like this Miele shaft, but when reassembled it was quiet and fine for nearly two years until now. The epoxy/primer/enamel on the spider was largely intact as well, with no additional spider corrosion. It's likely beyond repair now unless the shaft is machined and fit with a sleeve. We've gotten about 14 years of life out of it, so it may be time for a replacement. I would like to find a machine that is repairable though, and these Mieles with the external cast iron bearing carrier appear to be more readily repairable.

[@Xenon777_]

Weld the bearing to the shaft

[@bootsowen]

I thought about putting some shims in , but you have to get the bearings in to the spider first then the shaft, so no room for welding, and difficult to line up shims.

[@laszlokatko7216]

Then weld on a few stripes, spin up somehow and sand down to size.

[@bootsowen]

It's the spin up and sand down accurately that I am getting stuck on, it would have to be quite accurate otherwise it will wobble. Because of the size of the spider it would take a pretty big lathe to do it. But maybe something simple with an angle grinder. I'm thinking about it. Any more ideas, let me know.

[@luca._.3706]

Use glue lol.

[@bootsowen]

I thought about packing it out with a bit of drinks can foil. Hard to get it centered!

[@angelch1975]

As a miele tech I'd advise you not to waste your time nor money.

[@bootsowen]

Sad!

[@glugluminicreft1514]

??????????