Military Sabre six cut cutting drill lesson according to Roworth

This is a lesson on the basic cutting drill shown in the Roworth/Taylor manual on Napoleonic era British military swordsmanship, 1798, in regard to Sabre, Spadroon and Broadsword (Scottish basket hilt)

[@curticcarmichael3580]

I am so thankful for your videos. Your instructions are exactly what I need for the stories I am writing.

[@yagmi6182]

need more highly informative videos like this on sword technique. so many people talk as if everyone should know how to do every single technique in the world or show you how to do it but not explain it properly and never slow it down to show examples. this showed it slowly and explained it properly from multiple angles. i learnt a lot from the first minute than i have from hours of other videos trying to slow the videos down and analyse.

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Glad you enjoyed it. Check out this 20 video series we did during the lockdowns last year as it covers a lot of material in a similar way kzbin.info/aero/PLgRb6yZYwVwt14CE1re-jJRsOE51f08_3

[@jeremy4655]

Working through the Military Sabre Playlist videos now. Absolutely love them. Thank you

[@floydnimrod1826]

Constrictive criticism: Film these action from the rear so we dont have to reverse them when we're practicing

[@Est292]

Really useful video! Nice to see the drill from different angles!

[@davidjanosbosnyak6371]

Good evening! I do not wish to argue with you but the sabre six cut's root is a hungarian. Hungarian hussars started to use it in the early of the 18th century and the Lacy reforms started this technique had written down into the education books. The sabre six cut went to orther countries with the hussars (as light cavalary) was exported after a lot hungarian officer had to emigrate from the Habsburg Empire after the fallen of the Rakoczi independence war (1703-1711). All eurpean great power used this hussars and crated their own regiment. This technique influenced the spanish fence school, the french and a least the fence education in the young United States. At least this training was used to the end of WW2 in Hungarian Army.

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Indeed. The origin of many things in British swordsmanship were not originally British. In this video I am teaching a British military system, but those British military systems usually refer to themselves as having combined Scottish, Hungarian and Austrian methods. There is no claim or originality to them, only a method of practice in use at a certain time period.

[@WoL0WizZaRD]

I practice this all the time with one edge two handed, DE two handed, one handed and with my bo-staff... with each weapon the "Moulinet" remains the same but your movements and rotations have to adjust ofc. With the bo-staff it can be approached in different ways. I do recommend this training! Cheers from Venezuela!! also practicing this while moving forward and backwards helps a lot to practice moving.

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

+Nathan Lyrakis - I cannot reply directly to you so will do it here. A bokken is not really suited to it no. If you shortened the grip it would be okay for some drills maybe, but the grip shape and guard are still far off, and not suited to any kind of sparring. I would leave it as is and source something better. The Knightshop basket hilt or Black Fencer sabre is your best place to start.

[@nathanlyrakis7733]

+Academy of Historical Fencing ok thanks :)

[@djs4329]

I would love to see instruction on feints and a breakdown on what to do with the wrist, whole arm, etc and the timing in which they are used. Also instruction on creating opposition in cuts and thrusts would be really great as well. I don't see many videos on either of these topics. Thanks very much, greatly appreciated :).

[@hris3540]

Keep a boxing stance to mix with your solid stance when you feint. Step like a jab and mouillonet with the wrist to hit with the false edge and follow through with the true edge.

[@commondognut]

Would love more instructional videos on military saber fencing, as there isn’t a lot out there

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

That is something I am planning now. Getting the time and space to do it are the biggest problems. Hopefully a lot more coming soon.

[@commondognut]

Academy of Historical Fencing thanks my guy. Take all the time you need, as just as long as it gets done eventually I’ll be happy.

[@larsf92]

thanks for the drill. more sabre videos please :D

[@neohenry8292]

It would be really cool if you make an instructional video based on distance managing. Not much treaties, surprising, talk a lot on this, so hearing your suggestions and experiences on distance managing (covering footwork, tempo, and openings) can be awesome!

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Neo Henry Good suggestion. These kind of comments are really useful. Always happy to take suggestions. It will take time to get to all of them as there are lots of subjects to cover, but I certainly will.

[@neohenry8292]

Academy of Historical Fencing If you have more time, it would be very interesting to see tactics for one weapon against another weapon (say, longsword vs saber (I'm not suggesting anything about superiority, I'm just suggesting for discussions on cross-weapon :D)). Two questions: where did you get a Rowarth/Taylor manual and why this particular manual? It's always nice to ask questions about intent and books. Books. Books.

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Neo Henry Advice on mixed weapons fighting is definitely going to be covered in the future. The Rowarth/Taylor manual is easily accessible on google books. 'The Art of Defence on Foot, with Broadsword and Sabre'. Also now available via high quality reprints. Check out Corsairs Wares. Why we chose? When we started practicing swordsmanship in the 90's there was not widespread access to original manuals, or even much knowledge that they existed. Between the core four founding members we had a lot of experience in a mix of Tae Kwon Do, Sport Fencing, Escrima and re-enactment combat. So when manuals really came to light in the community, we looked through a vast array, and found those styles in which we found most effective and intuitive, especially according to our experience and skills. The Rowarth manual is particularly of interest because it is one of the few Napoleonic era British manuals in existence. Written by those who taught the armed forces, and therefore representative of the fighting men (or at least some of) of that era. So much of the manual matched up with our own findings and experience. It is clean, simple and logical. I think like most martial arts, they are chosen by those who study them because for whatever reason they feel right, and match the approach and style of the practitioner.

[@Saluspergratiam]

My question is, when attacking an opponent, do I simply go straight for a cut (such as straight from an outside guard to cut one) or do I rotate the blade to generate power first, or do I do whatever is most convenient at any given moment?

[@joaomelo7538]

Good to see you're making instrutional videos. Nice

[@thelonerider9693]

These sabre vids are helpful thank you!

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Glad you are enjoiying them. Checkout the HEMA at Home playlist we put together in lockdown as it covers a huge amount of the system.

[@thelonerider9693]

@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing Thank you!

[@blackmixen]

brilliant! Thanks mate. Very helpful as i now have a nice new shiny.

[@Fenderstat]

1. Great video. 2. When your doing the cuts into inside hanging guard....thats not inside (prime) hanging guard. I dont think that guard is in the system but I'm sure it works. Looks like some fancy rennaisance guard or something like in sidesword.

[@sirdanielsmalley9657]

I love those protective greaves! What brand are they?

[@sasquatchycowboy5585]

Thank you for sharing this.

[@arthureaterofworlds5176]

Gonna use this to beat some friends in lightsabers duels.

[@malcolmlagares8245]

This is such a great video. Thank you so much. : ) I appreciate this. : )

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Check out the HEMA at Home playlist that I am currently making. 2-3 instructional videos on this topic per week.

[@peterkay7458]

hey this was a great explanation. thanks so mchu

[@ubique6859]

Hello and apologies if this question has already been answered, what is the type and make of the sabre in this video and where do I aquire one for myself?

[@nathanlyrakis7733]

i have a question... i own no saber but i have a boken ( wooden katana ) would it be sufficient for saber training?

[@erichusayn]

Thanks. Very helpful.

[@thehoodedman1936]

Can you do this with your back to the camera, so it's like we're seeing it from home. I find this easier to pick up.

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

I'm currently making a new series on this topic, see the HEMA at Home playlist. I haven't done a video on the six cut drill yet, but it will be coming soon, and I'll be sure to add that.

[@RizanDahal-vn7qd]

43:05 That happens when you type CTRL+S which means splitting screen on Sabre

[@KaerRid]

Many thanks, quite clear and usefull!

[@adwarfsittingonagiantsshoulder]

Hello, how would you do a left handed version of this ? Would you mirror the technique only (then you cannot follow exercises done in pairs from the manuals) or mirror the technique and the names -ex : a left handed cut 2 named cut 1- (so that it conserves the same direction vectors so it is easier to do paired exercises from the manuals ?). Anyway, thanks for the video.

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

In the past we have always mirrored it, but it does get more complicated as you then practice set paired drills like the 10 lessons of Taylor. I think the best thing would be to have a left hander follow the same angles of the cuts. It's still a mess though, as certain guards, parries and target zones don't match up, The reality is that historically soldiers were not allowed to do it left handed. Our current method is to mirror, and pair left handers together where possible. I am still not convinced which method is best. Lefties really screw with a regimented system like this!

[@DMEII]

Thanks. But what about Cut 7? I enjoy your sabre and sword demonstrations, etc. I especially like this one because I have a copy of the 6 cut target I saved. But I have see another one just like it that includes a cut that as you follow through Cut 6 then you go up and come down vertically on the head, shoulders, etc, Cut 7. Just curious why you did not include Cut 7. Again thanks. I enjoyed it.

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Because we teach from Roworth's 'Art of Defence', which features a six cut diagram, not seven. The 7th is removed for simplicity sabre, cuts 1 & 2 effectively covering it. Cut 7 is shown by the Angelo's though, and is handy to know if you work on the 10 lessons/divisions introduced by John Taylor, and taught by Angelo and also shown in the last edition of Roworth.

[@DMEII]

Thanks. Where is you Academy of Historical Fencing? Do y'all have school all over or what. I live in Alabama, USA and it would be neat to take a course or lessons. I have heard of that HEMA too and am curious about the also. I really enjoy your videos. I love sabres by the way.

[@edwardgrylls01]

Great video

[@dankoobober8229]

Thank you very much!

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

If you liked this, check out the HEMA at Home playlist we have published, now 20 videos on the British military Swordsmanship style.

[@dankoobober8229]

@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing Already, sir)

[@sirupate]

Which manual does this come from, I couldn't catch the name? From 'Swordsman of the British Empire' Evidently and ironically, the Florentine or Radaellian system of sabre fencing, which was officially adopted for the British Army in 1896 and introduced by Maestro Giuseppe Radaelli, who was chief fencing instructor for the Italian Army and later director of a military fencing school, was based in part on the tulwar or scimitar method. “The French work with a supple wrist and fingers, commencing from a bent arm and a free, unconstrained position of body, the hand and eye working together under the guidance of the brain; whereas the exponents of the Florentine school work with a tight, claw-like grip and a stiff wrist, commencing from a rigid straight arm, the chief work of parry and thrust being done by the elbow and shoulder, on the principle that those parts being nearer to the brain than the wrist, their action must, therefore, be quicker and more correct than that performed by wrist and finger action.” (Col. M. J. King-Harman, “Sword and Pistol,” Journal of the United Service Institution of India, 1871.)

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

+Simon Hengle We teach sabre from Roworth (1798), a much earlier system. The system adopted at the end of the 19th century was quite different, and also used a very different sword, which is in fact, not a sabre, and at a time when swordsmanship was almost completely redundant.

[@sirupate]

+Academy of Historical Fencing Crikey that was quick, many thanks for the quick reply, yours seems similar to the 1796 LCS drill, whereas Radaelli's is more in tune with the traditional Indian use of the Tulwar, which seemed to gain some popularity; From 'Swordsman of the British Empire' Be declared to be impracticable, or the result of chance, with the supple wrist prescribed in the British sword exercise. The Native practice not only prescribes a stiff wrist, but a stiff, though not a straight, elbow for a cut that shall disable….. thus, penetrating cotton armor “is to be done only by the practice of cutting which forms no part of the instruction of regular cavalry in the British service”; and so a British swordsman “will find that, till he has acquired the habit of a stiff wrist, his sword will invariably turn”. (Memoir of the Mahratta War, 1821.)

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

+Simon Hengle Yes, that is hardly surprising for many that would be training according to Roworths methods would be using the 1796 LC, both for mounted troops practicing on foot, as well as many infantry officers adopting it as it was far superior to the spadroon that was the pattern of the day, this quickly led to the 1803 infantry officers sword, which is almost identical to the 1796 LC, just embellished for infantry officers. Angelo's methods were much the same, which because the official British sword system until that was adopted in 1817, and maintained until the change in philosophy of sword practice at the end of the 19th century.

[@sirupate]

the 1803 is a beautiful bit of kit

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

+Simon Hengle It is my favourite sabre design of all time. My original can be seen with a range of others in the video below where I look at all the different swords being covered by the British swordsmanship manuals of the Napoleonic period. It combines all of the qualities of the exceptional 1796 light cav, but with a fractionally lighter blade, more suited to infantry use, whilst still being the same size and profile, with a little more protection from the slotted hilt and then lavishly decorated. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHithICcjbqrnKc

[@thehollowlingwin]

Hey I'm about to buy a Black fencer sabre to start to learn and do these drills, but I was curious if it matters a lot if I choose their Polish style or Slightly curved style or if it's just my preference?

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

I'd recommend the more curved sabre, and fitted with the curved guard, which is the best setup as we recommend and use. The 'slightly curved' blade is more like the later period sabres that had larger hand guards, and a bowl guard would be better for that sort of blade.

[@thehollowlingwin]

+Academy of Historical Fencing Sadly I'm in the U.S. so getting the exact model of sabre is costly, so is it fine to purchase and use the hilt from your guard videos? Also out of curiosity would these techniques carry over well to the later period sabre(Slightly curved)?

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

The hilt design had a weakness being a two part construction with flat stock rather than round. They have massively strengthened it however, so as long as you get the newer model you should be fine. It is the V3 model you will be looking for. And yes it will carry over just fine. Roworth was in fact re-reprinted for the American market in 1824, and all of the techniques can be used just the same. The manual is after all not just intended for stirrup hilted and curved sabres, but also the spadroon, and the Scottish broadsword.

[@morten1975dk]

Thanks for the tips..... Just took down my old original 1839 danish cavalry saber and tried this in the living room and knocked down a lamp and made 4 scratches on the wall. Now my wife is pissed!! and my night is pretty much ruined. Thanks a lot....

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Lol, this is not a drill for the living room.

[@morten1975dk]

lol no... But it was fun he he

[@dfraser7402]

Excellent series. Thank you very much. What is your source for metal military practice sabres? I am with a group studying Rowarth, and we are having difficulty finding an appropriate Georgian type practice sabre, although we are looking at the Black Fencer synthetic sabre as well.

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

+D Fraser Steel practice sabres have always been problematic to source. At the moment the only ones available that we recommend are from Peter Regenyei in Hungary. We have at least 20 of his sabres, and about 40 other swords from him. However those bowl hilt lightly curved sabres do indeed represent later period gothic hilts as opposed to the more curved stirrup hilts that people doing Roworth want. I am having one made custom by Danelli Armouries at the moment to match an 1803 pattern sabre, but it Is expensive and I have never seen a military sabre made by him before. One of the problems getting steel for this is getting a blunt steel that will really work., not hit too hard and be safe enough. I think you won't get anything much under 400. The Black Fencer sabre is one of the best sabre training swords that has been made. One problem is that so few swordsmiths want to make curved blades due to the complexity and time of production. Polish swordsmiths may well be the way to go because Polish sabres have a lot in common with British Georgian ones, but most make overweight re-enactment beaters. I have several original Georgian swords. A typical infantry sabre weighs just 800-840 grams, not east to find a smith today capable of making a blunt to that spec.

[@dfraser7402]

+Academy of Historical Fencing Many thanks for taking the time to reply. I wonder if Regenyei or Red Dragon would be willing to simply put a stirrup guard on their currently produced sabres as an option. I believe a number in my group would also be interested in sourcing original 1796 Light Cavalry sabres and the infantry flank officer sabres of the same period, for solo training, if the prices were reasonable. Recommendations welcomed. Cheers, DF

[@dfraser7402]

+D Fraser Would you have any specific points of contact for Polish sabre manufacturers?

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

+D Fraser I am sure regenyei could make something, but his order book is closed right now and he is extremely busy. Red Dragon sabres are also out of production, hopefully they will be back soon once they have established new facilities. I have original 1796 light cav, spadroon and 1803 infantry officers swords. They are all desirable and expensive models to acquire. Typically £300 is about the cheapest you will find any of them, averaging more like £400-600 and a lot more. Of all the Light Cav is the easiest to find as it was made in the most quantity, being a troopers sword and not an officers one. But their legendary reputation still keeps values high. They are heavy bear in mind. Certainly they were used on foot, especially for rifle/flank officers before the 1803 was developed, but that doesn't change the fact that they are heavy for infantry use. They typically weigh 100 grams more, despite being he same length and profile as an 1803 blade, and that makes quite a difference. Despite those prices, that is still a better buy than getting something like a Cold Steel reproduction, which are quite basic.

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

+D Fraser I have given up on them due to them not being either suitable or particularly good service, even with the language barrier removed though Polish friends. This guys stuff looks great though and would be a good bet - facebook.com/Krsticic-Swordsmithy-238755506178192/?fref=ts I have seen some of his early work and it was very promising. Right now I am not keen on using stirrup hilted steel because the gloves don't exist to make it safe. However, with new developments like the St Mark gloves, that may change in the new year. If it does I will work on Regenyei to make a stirrup hilt with more curve.

[@jackalobowaitthisnameistaken]

How would you do this drill with the longsword?

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

+Jackson Loya Put another hand on the hilt :-) I jest, but that isn't far off. Meyer has a similar cutting drill with longsword, just ending in a seventh straight oberhau. The best way is to follow the cuts exactly, it will be self evident how you use the hands. But it is best done with passing steps. Pass, or withdraw a full passing step with every cut.

[@Ofotherworlds]

Can these drills be used with a basket-hilt broadsword or backsword without modification?

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Yes, they were intended for it. The cutting drill is for broadsword, spadroon and sabre. In the time period of the manual, broadsword meant a basket hilt, the standard highland Scottish sword of the time.

[@frogman4700]

will this be useful for modern sports sabre fencing?

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Not really, its quite far removed. The fact there is so little mass in the blade means a lot of movements with a sports sabre are twitch movements at the hand.

[@bobmilaplace3816]

So its a HEMA kata then

[@Narlithstern]

off to a great start

[@palmaiattila3288]

Nice, however, this is a sabre six-cut in the ground fencing position. In a "static" duel on the battlefield (after a dynamic cavalry attack), the right leg of the cavalryman sitting in the saddle is not pushed forward in the stirrup unless he turns the horse to fight on the right. The six-cut is of Hungarian origin: magyarszablyapecs.hu/images/hatv%C3%A1g%C3%A1s.pdf

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

Yes, we practice sabre on foot from manuals specifically for that, not mounted combat. And yep, the six cut diagram is indeed of Hungarian origin, I;ve mentioned that in quite a few videos.

[@palmaiattila3288]

@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing The manual of the Hungarian hussars prescribes a practice position so that both feet are in line, which is parallel to the plane of the six-cut drawing.

[@palmaiattila3288]

@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing However, it’s a very nice presentation, especially when it comes to wrist work. That was the essence of the drill, the hussar (light cavalryman) had to do the exercise until he had a muscle fever to strengthen his wrist and to avoid using the saber as if it were a thresher.

[@iamnotspartacus4460]

What about cut 7 and 8?

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

That is seen in manuals such as Hutton that is much later, and in my opinion, rather redundant.

[@matthewpham9525]

For the sake of your partner, don’t do cut 8

[@ianexcalibur7096]

Why are you parrying a couple of foot past your body? Your girlfriend isnt stood beside you, fencing is all about keeping it tight to save time, you parry about an inch past your body, if you fenced an epee or rapier like this you would be dead in seconds, don't get me wrong all this pomp and circumstance movement looks beautiful to look at but if your life depends on it then no......Your sabre blade is stronger but all I would have to do is disengage.......

[@AcademyofHistoricalFencing]

What has parrying got to do with this video? This is a cutting exercise. The circular motions are not about beautiful movement, they are power generation. This isn't about taping your opponent for a point, but striking them with a powerful cut. Point work is all part of the system too, but again, this is a cutting exercise. In fact I do fence rapier and smallsword (epee blades) all the time. This is a cutting drill, there are no parries, nor context to its use in a fight.