Milwaukee Impact Hole Saw DRILLING THROUGH STEEL (YOU Said We Did It Wrong!)

Milwaukee Impact Hole Saw DRILLING THROUGH STEEL YOU Said We Did It Wrong we read your comments and take your suggestions on the tecniques that we should be using with the Milwaukee impact hole saws and used them while drilling through steel because some of you said we did it wrong!
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[@AleksanderLydkunst]

Metal smith here! Typically any problem for a toothed hole saw will come from chip clearing. Any time you go through metal thicker than the height of the teeth, you will need to take a brake, and clear the channel with a brush to avoid chips filling the teeth and lifting them off the surface you’re cutting. As for the pilot bit snapping/shattering, that comes from a super hardened pilot shaft made to be uniformly hardened to beat whatever material you’re trying to get through; however, this also causes whatever tool steel it is to be brittle at a certain torsion ceiling. The torsion that broke your bit the first time might have very well been such a thick piece of steel (softer hardness than the pilot bit) grabbing the end of the bit, and since the piece of metal was so large, the bit could not overpower it to cut through, so the resulting torsion exerted on the bit caused it to shatter. Next time try this! For thick metal do slow and precise pilots, and then run the hole bit fast and hard til the teeth are almost filled (should only be about 20-25ish seconds at a time, and would be a better way to test the teeth themselves) clear the channel, reapply a little oil, then repeat the process til you’re through! If the teeth wear out or get dull, you have to consider the hardness of the material you’re cutting through, then you will know it’s limits. Remember not all angle iron/i-beams/mild steels are created equal, they all have a different hardness a tool needs to break through. Love the videos as always, great community and always enjoy the info I gain!

[@louieguda3421]

The spring inside that hole saw is fully compressed and is now keeping the hole saw from sawing through that 1/2 thick steel. That steel is simply too thick for that hole saw. Great vids

[@davidthewelderman2072]

Louie Guda Totally agree!!! Bottomed out on the self ejecting mechanism

[@Timothy-NH]

Yes, my same thought.

[@marinemikeusmc6529]

then why wouldnt it restart on the opposite side. had nothing to do with the spring

[@TGUGCL]

What would be the appropiate tool for cutting hole through 1/2 thick steel then?

[@james10739]

That's what I was thinking I figured the packaging should say max cut depth but he could just run it into the wood there and see how deal it goes

[@banga8080]

Your determination is off the charts Milwaukee owes you big time For being 1 of there biggest cheerleaders

[@mikegman7502]

Good vid as usual man keep them coming...didnt recognize you with the baby face

[@ImaITman]

Vince you coming back and doing follow up videos based on users opinions is what separates you from everyone else. Keep up the good work, love your videos.

[@Aepek]

How cool, that Vince & VCG took the comments & tried again for us👍🏻.....not many channels would do this, far as I know. Only Vince could model footwear & make an impact driver NOT impact all in the same vid......while bringing us great knowledge & content😉😆 Pretty darn great! Cheers✌🏼

[@Sundayfunnies]

I smashed the like button! I got and used these hole saw bits. They are great for drilling through aluminum. I use them on sheet aluminum and up to 1/8 inch thick aluminum. Obviously steel is a lot harder than the aluminum I use them on. They work great to drill through the aluminum.

[@honda9731]

Vince @VCG Cutting through the hardened steel i-beam is another level , slow and easy with Anular bits or super fast like CNC but continuously heavy cooled . Kudos to Milwaukee for trying to accomplish something out of the traditional ways. Like their cordless tools that continuously upgraded, hope will be possible also to their Cutting bits using simple tools we normally have

[@andysmith9140]

@vcg construction outstanding job, thanks for listening to the gang, I guess it really was just a bridge to far. Catch you on the next one....... Andy London England

[@maxb.6974]

I had almost forgotten what kind of knife Vince carries, thank god he reminded us...again lol great video

[@Metzger23]

Lol

[@operator8014]

I can't seem to recall the color though... Weird.

[@littlemilto6563]

@VCG Construction after reading the comments, I found one mentioning the spring is probably the reason it wont go so deep. I never thought about this since i'm not used to hole-saws with springs, however it's probably the reason. Always helps to have another set of eyes.

[@jasonjordan6435]

Good work as always. Always keep in mind the material being steel or stainless. Just keep lubed and keep the drill bit cool and go slow. You covered it well. Keep up the good work.

[@louieman009]

Hey VGC.. great video. I have the same kit that I use when I have to make holes in an electrical panel or switch gear enclosures. I've used these hole saws once on that hevi steel and found that the spring would bottom out. I believe that's what is happening here. Thank you for making these awesome videos. Can't wait for the next one.

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks buddy we appreciate the feedback!

[@ryanmalin]

I use the holedozer with a similar method moderate pressure and the least impact blows as possible. I've made about 50 holes in sheet metal with the 7/8" saw before its toast.

[@spudatbattleaxe]

Its never a waste if you learn a lesson👌👍 even if it happened to be an expensive lesson 😂😂 good stuff brother keep em coming!

[@jesustopete5494]

Hey buddy forget the impact just use a regular drill and don’t charge customers by the hour

[@jasomkovac9115]

Really, use the right tools, use a real bimetal blade or an annular cutter.

[@AyeJay-fe8pq]

agreed go with the drill when drilling makes the most sense to me.

[@dushk0]

Also Milwaukee accessories seem suspicious to me in their price policy...basically the other china made stuff + 100 bucks/euros/potatoes. Would be possible to try Bosch's stuff... speaking of which now there's a new Bosch impact driver with a socket square head with an internal hex that has switchable impact, so you could use it as a drill replacement for a 1 tool does it all situation... although there sure already is a similar thing by Milwaukee as well.

[@caydendebois4281]

I watch your stuff for the tools as a electrician, but I’m also a knife guy love to see both in your video keep up the good work!

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks Cayden we appreciate it!

[@coal452]

Great vid love the content personally I agree with you I would not go more than quarter inch on them bad boys 1/2 inch steel honestly I’d use a mag drill with a bore bit

[@jasper2114]

Most people don't own a mag drill sadly. Certainly need some specialized tools to work with heavy steel. Otherwise you're gonna be there all day snapping bits

[@jeremybroshear1237]

Thanks a lot Vince, appreciate you guys!

[@boystoyz8922]

Good attempt brother, keep up the great reviews! Spend many hours at work watching your videos. They keep me very entertained during the long hours of the graveyard shift.

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks!

[@thomasday3294]

Great Video Bro! Thx Vince & VCG BROS

[@jonathanconsiglio166]

love my Spyderco PM2’s (and the m18 fuel gen 3 hammer/impact set I picked up the other day). Mainly carry a limited, but not sprint run, s35vn tan handle and silver blade. Missed your’s, in a PMII though, by a day or two. Enjoy your videos. Very solid.

[@strizzy239]

From my experience anything starting at about 3/8 thick steel gets considerably harder to drill, especially holes over 1/2”. A lot of people heat things up too much and work harden the piece which makes it very hard to drill. Having the right tools for the job makes a big difference. I wish i could use my impact for everything as i enjoy using it more for multiple reasons. However my regular drill will always have its place in my box.

[@luyanoH]

the main wrong tool is the impact driver, a drill driver is the right tool

[@Metzger23]

Hole saw needs to cut at a slower constant speed. A driver driver or more preferably a drill press is the way to go.

[@jayv2765]

Yes you are correct way to much torque with the impact drill at slow speed only

[@joefrayer6993]

Yes a drill driver or a drill press! If he doesn’t know that the impact driver is a silly choice to cut that hole, I question his background as a contractor. Just because it says impact rated and has the 1/4” insert doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. I watch his videos because he always reviews new things, so I don’t have to impulse buy a cool new tool.

[@porkchop7652]

If any of you actually watched the video you will see he explained the reason he was using an impact was because the hole saws were impact rated and he wanted to test that, but hey not everyone has the same attention span 😂😂😂

[@garradmiller5025]

Electrician sizes, not made for heavy steel like that. Package just means steel, stainless steel, plastic.

[@franciscoverdugo4021]

Stainless steal worse than heavy steel

[@JaketheRake16]

They’re all hung up on the I-Beam designation on the packaging which doesn’t actually mean I-beams it just means metal, if you read the packing and website it says not to exceed 1/8” metal

[@garradmiller5025]

@@franciscoverdugo4021 no not if it's thin

[@thedude6279]

@@garradmiller5025 it still has a higher hardness rating than mild steel...

[@alpharemoval2046]

@@franciscoverdugo4021 not worse than your spelling

[@cowboy_broke]

He is right there is a picture of an I-Beam on the package. So why not drill it?

[@tombrown3072]

It's just an icon milwaukee uses to represent "thick metal". On the packaging it tells you the thickness they really mean. Same icon is used on their sawzall blades and so on.

[@garycasper2929]

It's only an icon for easy reference at the store. Meaning "steel"... Just like one wouldn't drill though plasic pipe. But, the easy / quick reference icon & lets the consumer know one can use it on "plasic" ..

[@zack6892]

I've seen that on a bunch of things that are definitely not for cutting I beams. I've always taken it as indication for use in heavier metals not literally an I beam lol. Certain multi tool blades are marked that way and that just means it will go through steel nails or corner beads.

[@momouppa]

Because even blind freddy would know it couldn't do it

[@Emmasmatt01]

It was not made to drill a hole in a I beam that is a generic icon for steel I have a set look at the teeth they are small and will do thin wall because it can usually cut through before the teeth gets full of chips for that I beam get a spider titanium the teeth are larger and won't get chip packed as fast use the right tool for the job

[@dragonkreed]

You always do a good job explaining stuff. Thanks Vince!

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks Dragon!

[@contessa.adella]

18:40 “time to switch batteries!”…..No Vince, time to break out the plasma cutter 😂

[@Cordova449]

Love how u mentioned the knife..hell ya

[@tritonmemnon5801]

A great test young Brother. Thanks for your diligence

[@keylenz1342]

When I first bought these impact ready hole saws I thought it would save me a lot of time and energy compared to carrying around a chuck drill n case of hole saw bits. Had a building outage sometime later and used it to make a couple 3/4” holes in a panel. After the first hole the pilot bit bust.. good thing I still had my old set up.

[@DieselDucy]

LOVE the outtro! I have a similar one!

[@VCGConstruction]

day hitten em buttons cuz

[@lordmcted]

man, this is like some escape from alcatraz type s**t

[@jasper2114]

The Para 2 is very nice. Very high on my list of knives to buy.

[@Russianbro777]

Spyderco para3 LW BD1N is my favorite Spyderco, Interesting testing.

[@Posey74]

I’ve done this. Treat like drilling a hole in concrete with hammer drill. Get started, then when the teeth stop showing-ish, drill a SECOND hole on the actual circle being cut. It creates a vent for debris so you don’t have to keep pulling out after teeth get gunked up.

[@Melike1hit]

You did your best, thanks for trying it the "right way"

[@aspenelectrico6730]

Thanks for your test

[@ronniebowen4793]

Your on point with right tool

[@matthewshannon6946]

Thanks for listening to us, Vince! That steel looks like a job for a "real" hole saw and a 1/2" Milwaukee corded drill!😜

[@charlesbeasley9317]

Thanks for the follow up video and attempt. I looked up the HD listing for the saws. It does say in the description online, "up to 1/8" thick metal". It really should show that info on the package.

[@banga8080]

Great vid bro I watched the other vid as well👍🏽

[@JoeJ523]

@VCG Construction. Iv learned a trick on drilling heavy steal like that. Get some modeling clay and make a circle with it around the spot your gonna be drilling and fill it up with some drilling oil then drill your hole not sure if I explained it right but it’s a good trick to make drill bits last.

[@VCGConstruction]

Good tip! Thanks

[@kayom1127]

you can do this trick with more dan only heavy steal

[@veelink6345]

Chalking gun and some silicone works too just wipe it up away from the hole you make

[@itsnatashaa4080]

Thats a good way to waste time buds

[@garychandler4296]

That's genius: have to put some by my drill press!

[@agustinalejandroluciozalas8458]

Saludos muy buen video desde san luis potosi mexico🇲🇽

[@El16100]

Saludos bro

[@mjc8761]

Thx for testing them again 😊

[@TheFlatlander440]

Good vid there Vince. As you mentioned, I think these bits work fine for PVC and thinner steel and sheet metal. The steel you are trying to drill through is 1/2 inch hardened steel and using an impact driver instead of a regular drill driver is asking too much. I've never had to drill through 1/2" hardened steel only 1/4" angle iron and I've always used HSS Cobalt bits and not hole saws. But I give you credit for giving it the good ole college try,. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience using these bits and cheers to VCG and the gang!!

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks William we appreciate it!

[@texasboy2005]

I saw you wrote that you believe the angle iron was in the hardened condition. What lead you to think that?

[@nicksantos9234]

@@texasboy2005 its 1/2 A36 hot rolled.. not heat treated but it's got a decent hardness to it (Rockwell B76 ish) Aluminum, the gold standard for cutting metal is like Rockwell B40ish ... Rockwell B70 range is pretty hard stuff

[@texasboy2005]

@@nicksantos9234 The A36 alloy is a common, cheap, and mild steel. However, it's chemical make up does not bode well for chip breaking. Machinist would prefer to cut/machine through common 1018 steel plate over this anyday.

[@CigarMan4Life1]

How U Doin! I too use the pilot hole 1st method. I use my Milwaukee hardened cobalt metal bits 1st though with actual cutting oil, slow speed with moderate pressure. Love your vids, U saved me $$$$

[@locc132]

The look on your face when putting your knife away. Same look on my face when my knife doesn't clip in the first time 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@henryjk9419]

i run the hole dozers in steel from .120 up to 1/2" they work awesome and last a good long time, even in a tubing notcher and .120 wall dom steel tubing!!

[@kingofthecrease30]

CONGRATS TO VCG ON 104,000 SUBSCRIBERS !!! 👍👍

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks king!

[@Samwilliamsfoundingfather]

as someone who drills thru metal daily and stayed at holiday in express last night go slow let the bit do the work and i put a magnet right next to hole I'm drilling to pull all the shavings away as i drill

[@saulnvega]

Amazing Video! Keep it up!

[@streetracr204]

Holy thick ass steel!!! Like you shouldn't be surprised if it doesn't make it through

[@davidk5677]

Nice video good info at least I no now not to buy them for thicker metal. Thanks for doing These kind of videos very useful

[@babysasquatch]

I use them almost every day as an electrician. I never use my impact, unless I need a quick hole and my drill/driver isn’t handy. For drilling in pull cans, I get the pilot through and just let gravity do the rest. It helps with the longevity of the saw.

[@jamesmclawhorn8259]

Babyface!!! Good video, keep em coming brother.

[@VCGConstruction]

😂😂

[@michaeljohnston243]

I love Milwaukee tools, but when it come to drill bits, hole saws and saw blades diablo is my weapon of choice. Great video though

[@jazzfreek54]

Great stuff! Thought it was funny that you're trying to keep it from impacting when the hole! point is that these are designed for impacts. I'll prolly not buy these. I'd just as soon pull out my drill. Thanks for the good stuff!

[@janelgaard7302]

Use a bimetal Milwaukee hole saw for comparison and use a cup to dip the bit in fluid.

[@tannerwharton4670]

@vcgconstruction will definitly buy these hole saws when there isnt just a half assed, no storage container bs kit that is missing like every size.

[@kevin4968]

No problem with the procedure. I work with a lot of steel. There are different grades where some steel is easier to drill, put self tappers in. Other steel you struggle with it. I believe your testing material would be an extreme material for my work but yet a good test. Perhaps the teeth on the hole saw needs better material - similar to what is done with some circular saw blades. Then the safety aspect comes up with the steel bits flying around to possible teeth bits coming loose. Perhaps with half inch steel a person should use a torch if allowed. I don’t like packaging to imply it will do a job yet fail. The self eject design is very cool. Thanks - Vince for the extra effort.

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks Kevin we appreciate the feedback!

[@velez910]

Your absolutely right my man if the pack says it's ok that means do it. You work with metal man look into surface feet and you will understand what people are talking about cutting to fast to slow. It changes with the cutting material and the .lateral being cut. High speed steel tool want slower speed then say carbide. Hole saws take those standard numbers and generally reduce them by 50% or so you dont have to be accurate just close enough to not burn the tool up

[@ColinAverill]

Thank you for using proper PPE. ;-)

[@TeefMah]

This is Vince's application to become an iron worker.

[@mikeymartin4751]

I think you did a pretty fair attempt. You actually went a lot further than I would have went. Will you now do a video of a hole saw that will go through that I beam.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great video vince

[@LtDan-nm1ss]

Designed with a robust ¼” quick change hex shank, Milwaukee® Shockwave Impact Duty™ Thin Wall Hole Saws give professionals a hole making solution to use with impact drivers. Utilizing a thin wall, 8 TPI design, Thin Wall Hole Saws deliver a burr-free cut up to 40% faster than standard bi-metal hole saws. The included ejection spring removes the frustration of manually removing slugs by automatically ejecting the material. A stop shoulder design prevents over-drilling into material and potentially damaging inner components of electrical and junction boxes. Choose Thin Wall Hole Saws for use in plastics and thin gauge metals up to 1/8” thick.

[@VCGConstruction]

Website? That's not on the package!

[@operator8014]

You can't trust those marketing guys, they'll say anything. They say ⅛”? Don't believe 'em.

[@frankporter8256]

Holy shit who is the new guy talkin. I think it might work with a regular drill instead of a impact

[@joshuabaker1604]

It's made for the impact driver that's why he's using it with 1

[@darrenwilson3625]

This had me pulling my hair out!

[@RockingJOffroad]

3 in 1 oil is a lubricating oil, not a cutting oil. Use a true cutting oil for best results. I think you are bottoming out on the ejector spring, with the spring fully compressed. As you said they aren’t designed for thicker steel!

[@makermentality1031]

If you don’t want it to impact why not use a drill and for drill bits it’s all about pressure you really need like 300+ pounds which is why drilling trough metal is so tough with anything but a brand new bit same goes with hole saws through metal and I’ll say that their hole dozers go through steel like butter I’ve drilled plenty through 1/2in steel with them. Great vid gang 👍🏻👍🏻

[@makermentality1031]

And the hole got full of metal dust/oil pancake batter just needed to blow it out with an air compressor

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks ADD!!

[@DanielDraper-ki4hr]

Shout out to BladeHQ! I'm a knife guy and have a blurple Para 3! lol!

[@caps741]

Great video. I think Milwaukee needs to specify metal thickness or give direction on product usage for what they consider to be heavy metal. Still a pretty cool product though. Also get that spyder co sharpened, it seems to struggle a little on that plastic.

[@thagigolo]

Cool

[@ednelson4793]

I looked these bits up after seeing the video, and maybe I'm mistaken, but I saw it mentioned they are for lighter metals UP TO 1/4 INCH... My guess is its supposed to be ok if you hit metal studs or if you need to drill into an electrical box as you did in your video

[@lilbigdaddy3042]

Personally I would use a drill but you do what you like 😂👍

[@mattallen1660]

DeWalt makes an electro magnetic drill press we have used when installing floating hand rails at malls makes quick easy work of large holes into thick steel.

[@dantheman9395]

Congratulations on 104 k

[@VCGConstruction]

Thanks Dan!

[@davidkellers8152]

Oil is wrong, wrong, wrong. Why reduce friction when you're trying to cut? The reason some people have had some success with oil is just the cooling factor. If you don't have cutting paste, use water. A spray bottle of water will keep the bit and steel cool and not reduce the friction like oil.

[@xenonram]

You want to reduce friction when you're trying to CUT because it is a CUTTING tool, meant to make a chip, not ABRADE it's way through. It is not an ABRASIVE tool. Have you ever sharpened a knife or chisel to a mirror polish (30k grit or finer)? Notice how it glides through the wood? Same principal. You want to minimize the friction. There are other reasons why some people advocate against using oil for steel, but not reducing friction is not one of them.

[@davidkellers8152]

@@xenonram I drill and cut hardened steel and stainless all the time.

[@davidkellers8152]

@@xenonram I us M35 or M42 would have gone through it like butter. If I remember cutting paste, even better. But on jobsites where we have none I have beaten everyone trying to use oil with water three to one. Three times as fast, and they use three bits to my one.

[@boosted2.4_sky]

One thing about the oil fwiw. ..oil is for cooling and cutting....some oils provide too much lubricity and others help the teeth grab the steel ...just the lubricity is different and some oils will cause the teeth to slip right over the cutting surface while others promote cutting.... and oil specifically formulated for cutting I think would give a better outcome.... although the 3 and 1 would work eventually

[@jeremykoepplin1587]

They are made for drilling into a electrical panel. Or electrical boxes like you demonstrated. The sizes of 7/8”, 1 1/8” and 1 3/8” are made for 1/2”, 3/4” and 1” conduit connectors.

[@stephenleepmg113]

Hay Vince,. Fein makes very nice bits for metal work. If you can please look in to them. Fein also makes a nice compact core driller for that sort of work. The Milwaukee bits are okay, just out of there league for that type of metal work. Also Metabo makes great metal bits and tools.

[@ranat5526]

You look very funny without the moush!

[@thomashernandez4027]

I have been buying those for a while. There good but don’t seem to last. I’m an electrician so there for light duty holes in boxes. I have a hydraulic punch for the heavy duty stuff. But price comparison to the Klein hole saws is vast. One Klein hole saw for a 3/4 ko is 60-70 bucks but last way longer.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Always drill steel at a very slow speed to fast will dual the bit then it will get stuck and snap

[@liamgeary4341]

Dont give those to the new guy he'll take 8 hours to drill a hole 🤦🏼‍♂️

[@VCGConstruction]

😂😂

[@tannerwharton4670]

More like he would give you back dull impact rated cookie cutters

[@mikenormandy9250]

Na, he wil come back with three burnt out hole saws and a broken pilot bit lol

[@Russianbro777]

Or 10-12hours, I wouldn't trust the new guy with those period.

[@thrice1888]

Some people suggested to cut a pilot hole to help the pilot bit. My as well plasma cut a hole first too!

[@Timothy-NH]

I know someone else mentioned it, too, but the reason that you can't get through that steel is because the auto-eject device is bottoming out, and the steel is more than twice the thickness of the maximum depth of the bit. I have one of these that I bought for mounting some specific stuff, and it worked great! Then, one day, I needed a hole through a piece of Plexiglas. Plexiglas melts when it gets hot. I have not been able to get the slug out of the big, though I have not tried all that hard, I'm sure I can get it out.

[@illegit8627]

torch it out

[@michallonczak1003]

Hey Vince it's definitely wrong holesaw for drilling in heavy thick steel and yes I like to think I am expert. I use these holesaws on daily basis at work and they are actually designed for drilling in metal sheet up to 2-3mm of thickness- always work perfect with little bit of cutting paste(grease)or cutting compound. Paste or grease or similar work much beeter than oil. If you drill in thick metal you should try TCT holesaws (Tungsten Carbide Tipped )- they "eat" metal away so easily. Love your Channel , Keep up good work👍

[@garychandler4296]

I wonder if I should try regular grease next time (I don't have cutting type)?

[@gregbanach4957]

With over 100,000 subscribers Milwaukee has an obligation to send a tech rep to resolve the application, technique, or the misleading packaging graphics for the VCG, along with replacing the broken holes saws from the preceding video. Vince I have two questions: What is the Milwaukee Guarantee on this product and on the former beard blade or electric? BTW great video👍

[@e2m514]

I’ve bought these before, they are okay for rough walling, on thin metal studs to run mc and conduit. But they don’t last long though, usually the spring is the first thing to come off, then the little screw that holds the bit, you’re gonna need an Allen wrench to tighten it again but the damned thing strips so easily. I just don’t let other people use them anymore, because they don’t know how to properly use them to make them last longer, they usually last me 2-3 months if I’m doing a lot of wall rough, before they start to have problems, but they do make rough walling easier

[@andrewoffermann1905]

I will stick with my carbide bits for pilot hole and use my step bits love step bits drill throufh 1/2 steel and red steel so easy and fast

[@bushwhackfpv6610]

ao another quality vid!!!

[@garageworksongsawesomeness7002]

What bits and hole saw bits would you recommend for that type of steel?

[@edwingarcia6732]

I will try with A regular drill every time I use a bit for a impact driver takes longer and the RPM is different for drilling. Just like a metal cutting saw and a regular cutting saw with a metal cutting blade

[@802Garage]

What an adventure this one was. Agreed, it is not the right tool for the job. I don't think most hole saws are meant for over 1/8" steel. The I beam picture is just the unfortunate visual symbol chosen to say a tool is rated for metal on general. Didn't actually indicate thick metal capabilities. It's silly. A lot of drill bits do list the actual max recommended thickness though.

[@VCGConstruction]

I agree cuz, we appreciate the feedback!!

[@amoscardoza5253]

Yo fella, happy Saturday!!!

[@VCGConstruction]

Happy Saturday famous amos!

[@honda9731]

Yo Famous Amos happy Saturday too bro

[@amoscardoza5253]

@@honda9731 thanks man, hope your having a great day!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Used motor oil is the best lubricant for cutting steel in my opinion

[@robertkovacic4623]

Told you already 3-4 times-an impact driver is not a Drill!!!! As a metal worker - what do you want when you drill a hole into solid metal - a long spring-like metal shavings. A hole saw bit is similar and you will need a hole saw with larger teeth to get rid of the chips.Maybe if you make another hole on the cutting edge,so the shevings can fall through..... I got an idea-try to cut a hole thru ceramics with a ceramics hole saw attached to an impact driver...that would bee Fun ;)

[@dandexinventor]

I erect steel buildings and run electrical, plumbing, and control lines using these same hole saws, but the thickest I use them on is 11GA (about 1/8")...common sense kicked in and anything thicker I use heavier-duty methods like plasma cutter, uni-bits, etc. I've had these bits for about two years now and bored maybe 75 holes in varying metals with the 7/8" as it is the most common for what I do and it's probably time to replace it. I go slower and keep them oiled. I can say this, they are awesome for plastic electrical/control boxes and I really like that they eject the plug reliably. I would not ruin them on thick metal when there are much more efficient (especially time-wise) methods to bore holes in these sizes. And the first one breaking...is what I have learned is the pilot-bit heating up and expanding, catching on the hole walls and locking-up. It never had a chance I'm thinking.

[@ronniebowen4793]

Brother, I have to drill SS regularly. You need to put "Lenox" drilling oil. SS work hardens slow and low temp smoke oil will save bits and hole saws