Milwaukee M12 Soldering Iron Heating Element Replace / Repair

[@dmc1v3r]

Same thing just happened to mine. Now I know how to fix it. Nice one, thanks for posting.

[@thebrandon907]

I have had to replace 3 of these elements on my own, as warranty took 4 months to return and was told it's longer now. So started doing it myself last year. I have 4 of these and have various issues with all of them. If they weren't so great while they work it wouldn't be so frustrating lol I believe I used a different element though. I will have to look. At the time, in late 2020 there was no info online and has to just compare wattage across the market for replacement. Great video, I'm sure it will help loads of people!

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

Thanks for the comment 👍 So far I’ve done 10 of these 🤯

[@shauntullar8528]

Thank you very much for providing this video. I personally have gone through 4 of these. I was hoping you could do a video on installing an electronic temp controller. Any thoughts?

[@TheMationo]

I have order A1321 element, received 24v50w one. Is it correct?

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

@@TheMationo can you see the four metal tabs on the sides that the legs are attached to?

[@TheMationo]

@@DavesDiscoveriesChannel yes. It looks like one on video.

[@Legendz167]

How do you know if a heating element is no good? I have a milwaukee iron as well but the fuse is bad for sure; my issue is that when i connect the wires directly without the thermal fuse the heating element gets hot BUT glows orange which i think is strange but then again i never saw the heating element itself nor did i ever see it itself w|o a thermal fuse attached either. My concern is that if i replace the fuse and that element gets to glowing again then i’m just going to blow another fuse. OR is it the thermal fuse that regulates the heat therefore not causing the element to glow orange. OR lol, the heating element is just bad

[@zIBaXiiIz]

I used a soldering iron to add another thermal fuse, I just got it really hot and loaded a wide tip with solder and dabbed it on quickly, had no issues since doing it

[@konstantinhristow2964]

Hey how much temp it’s a Fuse?

[@tyj6297]

Where’d did you get the replacement part for it

[@LeonCamero]

Does yours remain blinking green? Mine heats up, but it turns itself off after a continuous blinking. It stays solid for a few seconds and then turns off...

[@tatanoski666]

i bought a used iron and when i install the battery nothing happen so i search for possible issues and the number one was the fuse so i took it out and bypass it and it worked like a charm, hopefully it does not burnt up but i tend to turn off all heating devices before i set them a side

[@BuyitFixit]

Hi mate, well done on fixing it. H = Heater, N = NTC (thermocouple). I've done a few of these, and quite a few other Milwaukee tools too! I can certainly give you a shout out on my channel if you like. Best wishes. Mick.

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

@@BuyitFixit thanks mick 🙏

[@smint555]

Where can I get this part?

[@biohaz360]

Has anyone tried a higher watt element in these? Milwaukee claims it's 90 watt, but everyone says to use a 50 watt? Is this why they fail so much?

[@arturtuta1149]

I have noticed that the sensor resistance on the genuine heating element is about 1 ohm but on the replacement one is about 4 ohm. when I replaced it is taking ages to warm up. Is that right?

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

Mines been perfect since I changed it 🤔

[@arturtuta1149]

@@DavesDiscoveriesChannel Would you be able to send the link please? Mightbe wrong heating element then? Or would you measure the two pins for the heat sensor? Thanks.

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

@@arturtuta1149 sure: a.aliexpress.com/_mrKBuSQ

[@anhtapchet]

I had chan hako a1321, 24v/50w , and my machine didn't work

[@jmo2321]

Same issue sadly with mine…it warmed up but never fully reached temp. I wonder if there is variations in the heaters/models on these irons. I also verified continuity on all my solders across the traces and the element. Fuse was still good as well. Unfortunately couldn’t check resistance on the original heater as it was damaged too far.

[@suzesiviter6083]

Great video, on mine it was the152deg 15a fuse blown.

[@jamieclyne8570]

Hi mine has done the same. How did you fine the correct replacement fuse?

[@gabrielmassa]

awesome. I was looking for this a while ago and could not find. thank you so much.

[@suzesiviter6083]

@@jamieclyne8570 The thermal fuse is located in the tip end, connected in series with the tip power, you will need to pull back the fibre sleave to see it, use a blade to prize open the clamps holding the wire. Remember to test it first, it should be less than an Ohm, or open if broke. Do not solder it unless you use some sort of heat shunt or you will blow the new one. I found it by reading the markings on the fuse and typing them into ebay.

[@suzesiviter6083]

@@gabrielmassa No problem, I know they are on ebay. Mine still working fine, so they must just get old and break.

[@Tight4Skin]

Mine too. New model. Great crap for 300 bucks.

[@kamrannasri7495]

Thank you for the efforts you put to produce this video. I searched the aftermarket for 12V element but they all seem to be 24V. Is it OK to use the 24V element instead of 24v? Also, can these element be cut to make the right lenght?

[@martinluthierking]

I think the 24V is fine to use here

[@abdu3d]

Thank you very much

[@Esayward20]

My iron just flashes green doesn't heat up, would this normally fix that issue changing the heating element?

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

Yes that would indicate that the element has failed

[@jlaneaux1]

I’m having the same issue. Green light just keeps flashing

[@andreapasseri7636]

if the element is not broken it could just be the thermal fuse.

[@anhtapchet]

Can you give me link to buy this

[@andreapasseri7636]

this video is great and kudos to the creator, though as it is for most people, the replacement element for hakko has a tech spec of 50-60watts vs the original milwaukee which is at 90watt, and for me in the automotive industry leaves my soldering iron suffering to maintain temp against fairly thin/standard 12v automotive wiring. whereas for thinner wiring its perfectly fine. im desperatley looking for a 90watt replacement/ original milwakee one. if any one can link one itll be most highly appreciated. (p.s the ebay one from australia sells for 18 euro and a shipping of 40euro's so thats definatley out of consideration)

[@johannkrings7517]

Hey Andrea, did you found a solution? I'm running into the same problem

[@drowildcat2960]

?

[@andreapasseri7636]

hello @@johannkrings7517 , i actuallly got the australian 1 from ebay, and they are original milwaukee ones i can assure you that, i.e 90watt. i also do repairing for clients so it was worth me getting the 5 pack.

[@andreapasseri7636]

@@johannkrings7517 I know the hakko ones are 50-60watts, and what that means is the element will reach temperature but cool fast against thicker cables, but i saw a new video on here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5XJZWNubtmfa8U&ab_channel=WutUpClegg where you can see how to arrange the temperature of the tip, try to see if maybe a higher temperature of the tip helps. and please post the results. maybe it helps some one else.

[@Fringeless]

What is the resistance of the heating element?

[@jferreira5096]

152 degree 15a

[@andreapasseri7636]

@@jferreira5096 thats the thermal fuse, that burns out if tit reaches 152 degrees to save the rest of the iron

[@andreapasseri7636]

should be around 1 ohm

[@stephenroberson7908]

So I have the element but I need the crimps and a crimp tool . Can anyone help?

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

You can use a fine screwdriver and pliers to “unwrap” the existing ones. I used the end of a spade/bullet terminal as a crimp

[@stephenroberson7908]

Thanks I ordered some crimps but tool must be correct and crimps maybe to big . I did take you advice and use a 1/4 of a butt connector.

[@stephenroberson7908]

So how important do think it is to put the insulation back on the element. Where the nut an Tippett is?

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

@@stephenroberson7908 it’s not essential but it’ll help dissipate the heat

[@stephenroberson7908]

@@DavesDiscoveriesChannel have you been able to find it for sale anywhere (the larger insulation ) I have not found it any where.

[@stephenroberson7908]

So a update I did finally just reuse a crimp on my M12 soldering Iron it lasted a little while longer butthe high temp JB weld just won't hold . When I go to wipe the tip of after soldering. The JB weld high temp just comes loose from the black nut. Yes it is 700° temp JB weld . At the end of the just get the new M12 soldering iron.

[@Djankhra]

How did you take it apart???

[@seansysig]

The Hakko #A1321 is the wrong element it won’t reach 750°F as the element is a 100 watt element for a 24 volt iron that measures 3.5 ohms, the OEM Milwaukee element is for a M12(12 volt) and it measures 1.6 ohms.

[@seansysig]

The new element is incorrect! It can never reach temp as it is a higher wattage element. To reach optimum temp it needs at least 20 volts. Ohms Law states W=VxA

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

I’ve repaired 5 of these and they all work fine?

[@Djankhra]

The video is good but!!!!!! You should show how to take it apart!!!!!!

[@DavesDiscoveriesChannel]

@@Djankhra hi, you literally just undo the torx screws and wind off the tip shroud 👍