UPDATED VERSION! Scandinavian VS American, CA, NZ, RU, AU building methods, let's compare...

[@jelsner5077]

American here. Your hammerband technique makes so much more sense than a double top plate, especially when factoring in no need for window headers. The A-frame roof joists make more sense, too. In the US, roof trusses are commonly used, making the attic space unusable. I also think using OSB on the walls makes a lot of sense along with the "double wall" so wiring and plumbing can be run without drilling holes in the studs. In the US, there is a newer OSB designed for subfloors that is waterproof. So we've got you there! I would be interested in how a full two story house is framed in Sweden. Do you do hammerbands around each floor? Also, do you use wooden I-beams for floor joists there? Thanks for the fascinating videos.

[@hugoakerlund5114]

We typically use lumber for floor joists. 45mm x 195mm or bigger are common. There are other enginered joists made with osb, plywood and masonite but those are more often used in commercial buildings.

[@richardsargent113]

I like the idea of the hammer band. I think I'll use that when I build my two story shop next spring with the usual twp board top late and 3 fireworks on my 1st story 12 foot walls. So I can support the wood shop on the second floor and the 5 foot cantilever balcony.

[@aBoogivogi]

For smaller scales like this wooden I beams are usually only used in Norway if you are chasing really high R values since the cold bridge between the hot and cold surface is reduced. I have also heard of cases where using them between floors was cheaper overall than using conventional timber as they have a higher strength to weight ratio and thus allow you to use less material in the lower parts of the building offsetting the added cost per meter of the beams themselves to a point were you save money.

[@cccpkingu]

One would think MDF has less formaldehyde and fire-resistance?

[@cccpkingu]

How long do you plan to have the water there for? Still leaks into other things if the sheets don't crumble, but over time they still die if nothing dries?

[@genegreear4183]

I am 76 years old. I can’t remember the year but everything used to be on 16” centers. Now almost everything is 24”. We usually don’t use OSB inside but I see it is a good idea. Walls get really weak when you drill them full of holes. I was building three story apartments in Colorado. I had just ran 3” pipe in on the first floor for electric in all the apartments. They delivered drywall. No one was there the weekend the floor fell in from all the holes I had drilled. I had questioned it before doing the work. That was what was called for in the plans. Another point most contractors use heavier drywall in the ceiling just for the added fire rating. Enjoyed your video and plan on watching more of them. I had never thought about doing the top plate any different. I like the way you do it and see the advantages. Later

[@herbrotter]

Here are my comments from a North American: 1. You have hit the nail on the head again. 2. Excellent update on the differences of building styles. 3. Excellent on point loading from top of roof to the foundation. In particular, the direct connection between structural members and not having a subfloor on top of the frame. 4. Great clarification on the roof trusses. Cannot beat the strength of an A-Frame type roof truss construction. 5. Moreover, the detailed explanation of the Hammerband and how you use it conjunction with a header for a door or window. That combination would be a hybrid box beam. Which you can not beat the load capacity of it as the load is spread to multiply framing studs. You a truly an excellent craftsman and I cannot wait for wait next instore to view.

[@mindsparx1]

Thank you, I'm learning and hopefully i can expand on the differences in my next part.

[@nordiskvilla104]

Hello Mindsparx! I'm new to your channel, very nice content. I live in Järna with my family currently building my house there. As I understand you are in the southern stockholm area as well. It would be great to meet up maybe for a koffe if you open to it and "exchange minds"😊 Mvh Gergely Doman

[@stevenfrazier8939]

I have looked all over the internet and you are the only one with a video showing the hammar band house construction method. if you are able to, please do a video only on that subject.

[@prone_wolf8871]

I can definitely see the benefit of the hammer band....I've never seen that but would incorporate it into my projects

[@dare2beam]

I work in construction and live in Denmark. I am from Bulgaria (south of Europe). Got my education (In construction) here in DK and I can say from my experience that the biggest difference I see in methods is the Earthquake resistance and stability of the building. Scandinavia is in the middle of the European Techtronic plate and when we had to calculate seismic actions - its virtually 0. On the other hand Bulgaria has a code where all buildings must comply to regulations that make sure the buildings withstands 9 on the Richter scale. The amount of reinforced concrete used there is un imaginable to my Danish collogues. That changes how the different construction elements look like and where people spend most money on their house/building. Furthermore, soils in Northern Europe have been compressed by the glaciers that came from the north pole during the ice ages. That has compacted some layers of the soil to a very high degree. Making it very easy to build on - especially small buildings like single family homes. It seems to me that this makes it possible that people in northern Europe to spend less on the structural elements of the building.

[@mindsparx1]

Thank you, very interesting.

[@konnagalaxy]

finnish carpenter here, and damn, I might actually stumbled on my favorite channel.

[@jylpah]

Fantastic video! I am not a builder myself, but few comments from what I have learned from my Dad (construction engineer, HVAC): - Finnish building style has evolved over the years. E.g. up to late -90, no gap was left between the humidity-stop and the drywall. This forced power outlets to cut through the humidity-stop (plastic) and leaking outdoor air to inside (ventilation causes under pressure inside). Nowadays there an additional batten (narrow wood, “rima”) is put on top of the plastic so electricity wiring or outlets don’t have to cut through the plastic. But I think the batten should be vertical to ensure ventilation? Not sure does it matter. - the Swedish way of building the roof is better quality. Here it’s common to just have a special “cardboard” layer below the tiles, not bitum.

[@Zorthaify]

Fantastic video, fantastic series. Loved watching you build your house and learn how other countries do things! A standard practice now in north America is extensive waterproofing. We use "flashing tape" and other self adhering waterproof barriers extensively to prevent water infiltration. For example, for windows, flashing tape would be applied directly to the frame, and then new windows have a nailing flange attached to the OSB siding, and flashing tape would be applied over that, along with metal flashing on the top and bottom to divert water. Or for the roof deck, we would apply a similar tape flashing material to cover the roof deck, and then apply metal drip edge flashing over the fascia, and then apply flashing over the fascia and the entire roof deck. Fascia would also have separate flashing. This combination of flashing tape and flashing metal generally covers all seams on the exterior of a house, under the siding material. I notice that your windows didnt have any nailing flanges, they are what we call retro fit windows (they fit into a wood frame instead of the flange being attached to the house). How do you water proof your windows and seams?

[@CrapE_DM]

When I saw you do the hammer band, I (as an American) said, "that's a GREAT idea!"

[@emilw9690]

The amount of positivity and sense of people being happy about new ways of doing things on a video that pinpoints differences between european and american ways of doing things is just amazing to me. I saw the name of the vid and opened the comment section expecting to find a shit show of cat fights with either side name calling the other. What did I find? A hundred variations of "Oh, that way of doing things actually makes sense, but I was wondering why you don't do this other thing this way". Respectful, polite and positive conversation. I'm amazed. I have no idea how you do it, but please keep doing it, you're making the world a better place. Thank you for that. :)

[@gustasvindziulis]

I have discovered this channel a few weeks ago. I have watched all your videos more than once. I will be building a house this summer, but all the framing videos are how Americans do it, very little information is about how the Europeans do it, so this channel really helped me figure all the things out

[@thisMF]

Me too! Same situation!

[@fred1418]

The reason you have some many videos on American is because to the most part it is a NATIONAL building code with bulletins added if a State wants more. The minimum you are allowed are those regulations. In Europe all the risk is carried by your contractor and it is also why in Europe to build it is more expensive. All lumber sold in North America already must be Grade stamped by the sawmill, so when you buy the lumber, you already know what you have, not so in Europe. I have built in Europe and I find that they all seem to want to keep it secret to protect their industry.

[@brickan2]

@@fred1418 Hello, could you give me an example or two? Your comment is very interesting. It sounds to me contractors are competing with know-how in EU and in the US everything is more transparant?

[@robertboyer5498]

@@brickan2 maybe they only share with apprentices in Europe? In the US, the apprenticeship program is in shambles. Most people learn at trade schools or on the job. I don’t think there is any hidden knowledge.

[@Coole-ee1vg]

@@fred1418 All construction timber are graded and stamped in a correct way in the Nordic countrys . In Sweden there is a building built in tree with eleven floors. It's built in Hyllie, Malmö . Google and check it out...

[@HerrBrutal-bl2fk]

I'm a cook with 14 years of experience, hoping to one day call myself a chef. Watching this video and reading the comments fills me with admiration and also a sense of belonging, because everyone who has adopted a truly professional attitude to his or her life's calling is family to me.

[@fateish69]

i built my house almost exactly the way you did (i am from austria), instead of foil my vapor barrier is OSB3 with sealed joints (standard here). only the foundation is a baseplate with strip footing, insulated on top with extruded styrofoam. for the rest of the house we used hemp which is more expensive but has outstanding insualtion properties. the walls have been planked with boards made of plaster fiber (heavier and more durable than normal drywall). i love your videos and cannot wait to see how the house will look when finished :)

[@stevenpopelka8494]

Loving the video - commenting as I watch it. - noticing the larger spans with the roof trusses and seeing you use dimensional lumber instead of sheeting for the decking - we do something similar in the U.S.A. when we build post frame buildings. We put trusses 4 foot, 6 foot or 8 foot on center and span them with "purlins" - 2x4 or 2x6 lumber on edge- we do this mostly with steel roof buildings, sometimes we will sheet it with osb, but mostly we go steel roofing right to the purlins-

[@natewarner]

Nicely done; thank you! American building styles have changed over the years, even when focused on a single climate. (I bought a 125 year old house and had to research as I was doing a basically complete gut of the inside. 125 years of small improvements, mostly removed and replaced with modern: 5 generations of knob and tube wiring + at least 5 of romex replaced by modern romex; galvanized pipes by PEX; cast iron waste pipes by PVC; plaster/lath by drywall; no inslulation by... insulation...) My 125 YO house uses a form of balloon framing, though modern by the era: there's a subfloor covered platform built over the basement (was dirt, concreted over later) and the ~16"OC 2x4 walls are built all the way to the top of the second floor and double capped. This got a platform built on top to put the roof over, so 2nd floor was not built like most modern homes around here with a platform at each level. The house also has a form of hammer band, but I suspect it was mostly put there for the building process: it's only on the walls that support the 2nd floor joists. Joists are flat nailed to the bottom-of-first-floor to roofline 2x4 studs. Modern construction would *never* allow this technique and I've heard so many comments about adding fire blocks it's amazing (that wasn't feasible, though). I really appreciate these videos; seeing how it's done in different places around the world is great fun! Thank you!

[@aBoogivogi]

Installation walls are common in Norway in both commercial and DIY projects where timber framing is used. Except in cases where you are renovating older houses as they are not always a practical addition to what's already there.

[@samTollefson]

As a retired builder/contractor in the US, it always amused me when the young guys would stubbornly stand on their way of doing things as the only "right" way to do it. As a person gains experience and the knowledge that comes with it, it becomes obvious that there are many different ways to do something and accomplish the same goals. The circumstances, type of materials and tools available, experience of the carpenter, codes, and lots of other circumstances, can all lead to using different methods of putting something together. The goal is to accomplish the task in the most efficient and economical manner and make the homeowner happy.

[@hugoakerlund5114]

Keep safety in mind. I've been watching american house framing on youtube and a lot of the things they do in those videos would never fly in scandinavia. Like walking on top plates and working on scaffolds without railings. Not only is it illegal here in Sweden but most guys in Sweden would also refuse to work under the conditions that seems common in America.

[@samTollefson]

@@hugoakerlund5114 I agree; many young construction workers are fast and loose with safety concerns. Much of that is for speed (making more money) and showing how macho they are. When I visited distant relatives in Norway years ago, I asked an older uncle what the people here think about Americans; he thought about it for a while and said that they think of Americans and America as one would think of an adolescent child. The more I thought about that, the more I had to agree! Stay safe, my friend!

[@baverfjant]

@@samTollefson We do have issues with companies not providing their employees with sufficient safety measures when they are shoveling snow off of roofs during the winters in Sweden. I have friends and an older brother who have worked with it a few winters. So nobody is perfect in the end. My brother worked for a company that didn't mess around and did everything right, providing rigid harnesses, helmets, and snow boots with cleats. But he often told me about running into other crews who either lacked one or the other of those things. One time they only had the helmets, boots they had to get on their own and there were no harness. Two of my friends quit on their first day when the boss couldn't be arsed to clear snow from the anchor points or come up with a solution, so the workers could fasten their harnesses, telling them to just work their way there and do it themselves. And it was pretty damn far up, on a very slippery roof. People die from falling off roofs pretty much every year because of that. It's seasonal work and not as regulated I think. Sometimes it's companies doing ordinary roofing and such as well, like my brothers employer, and they do it right. Sometimes it's less serious companies that were possibly started the same year, and they'll shut down when the winter season is over only to return the next one.

[@BERNHARDHT]

this is a comment full of wisdom

[@Kallenator1988]

We absolutely do installation walls in Norway too brorsan! It's very useful =)

[@fredrikantfolk991]

and here in finland it's the same .

[@kritan84]

I'm a developer/white collar office worker (IT boring stuff) and previously worked as an interpreter... I got no business being here, but got drawn in by the gentle, professional style of your VA and the awesome discourse in the comments! Reminds me of my childhood years picking up nails and screws for my father after he built our house, I got 5 öre for each one. He regretted that one 🤣 What my line of work gives me is an insatiable appetite for learning, and this will not help me at all, but I am happy to have seen it! Tack! Mvh från Malmö

[@jeroenred]

The wires in conduit in The Netherlands, Belgium and Germany are solid, never braided (about AWG13). Pulling them through conduit is not easy but doable (5 wires in 5/8" conduit). Concrete and brick houses here are built with just conduit. The wires are installed later.

[@Staroy]

Super interesting and really well put together video (your new house too!)

[@kwileyk]

This is fascinating and very educational. Thank you for assembling this updated version. I've been following your progress on this channel for a while, and I really appreciate your insight.

[@deycas]

Great video again! here in the Patagonian region we have a collection of styles to build in wood, mostly USAish. This videos teach a lot! building like your videos is about 20 years old here. And the typical log-cabin style about 50 years. Our traditionall style and cheaper here, is massonry with mortar, concrete and bricks (+100 years) but the benefits and building with wood has me whatching your videos for hours! thanks!

[@LordFlash124]

Totally brilliant and intensely informative series of videos. I am in the UK and will utilise a major amount of the skills and information that you provided here and in your other videos in my self build timber construction. Many thanks.

[@margaretbear]

Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. Your videos are very well done, and you have an immense amount of knowledge. It's nice to see how much interest you take in building customs around the world. I live in the USA, but have lived many different places. The place I lived that is most comparable to where you are is North Dakota. I live in Florida now and there are a lot of differences in how things are built because of the climate. Here we have to worry about hurricanes, very high ground water levels, and sandy soil. Basements are almost unheard of as a result. The debate about vapor barriers rages on here since most of the year the 'cold' side of the wall is on the inside of the house. Your building methods and execution are so well thought out, and have such attention to detail. It is a joy to watch your them.

[@chham57]

Great video. I have really enjoyed comparing and contrasting your building methods with what we use here in the U.S.. I was blown away when you stated that your osb, chip board size was regulated by what was deemed safe to carry. Wish we had that here. 48”x96” 3/4 ply isn’t fun.

[@bfelb]

That's roughly the dimensions we use in Germany as a 'one man board'.

[@ricknplano1401]

Thank you. Very informative. Love the Hammer band.

[@cabanu]

Nice video! I am in the process of drawing plans for my own house and am being inspired by the techniques shown in the videos. In Belgium, we are able to handle all aspects of the building process, including electrical work, as long as it is inspected prior to use. We als use installation walls.

[@Erik_MN]

Great video. I'm doing a post frame style house in MN (USA). This is a 3rd option not covered in this video. It will have a double wall for the reasons you described regarding not breaking the vapor barrier. The foundation is concrete piers.

[@Concreteshoplife]

I love your approach and how you answer comments. People make everything too complicated and yes... building is a big business and God forbid( especially in US where I live) you build a house on your own and take away profit from so many leeches... ;)

[@rhysfirth3506]

As a kiwi, I found your foundations mentioned pretty interesting. What has gained popularity in modern houses post the 2011 Christchurch quakes is what is called "rib raft" foundations. It's a combination of the floating slab found on sesimicly stable areas with the trench and concrete style. The idea is the reinforced concrete in the trenches act like ribbing on a casting, tired into the reinforced concrete of the slab, tying it all together to the entire foundation stays together and rides the quake like a raft. Unsupported slabs would break into several pieces, but being all tired together the whole thing just holds together.

[@metricstormtrooper]

What you call Fire Stops, are called noggins in Australia and are not use to stop Fire, but to shorten the effective lengths of the studs to reduce deflection and strengthen them. Normal studs in Australia are 90 x 35mm as we generally do not need as much insulation space as you would need in Sweden or America. Here typical wall insulation is R3.8 .

[@Heimbasteln]

As a german electrician I can tell you that we definetly do not use braided wire in house walls very often (if at all), I have also never seen a house with conduits, though I dont work on residential houses, so my sample size is small, only friends and families houses. But I will definetly install conduits when I redo my walls and electrical. But you can definetly pull solid wire through conduit, as long as its not something very thick like the cable that supplies the house. We pull 50*1,5mm² cables through conduits in the earth at work, so a 5*2,5mm², which is usually the biggest cable that you need shouldnt be a problem at all (and its probably not a workout like the big cables at work).

[@GerardL]

In The Netherlands solid core 2.5mm2 installation wires through conduits stiff or flexible is standard. You can buy pre-wired flexible conduits in our local builders market. re-wiring is not hard, you pull the wire through in stead of pushing which works fine as long as the flexible conduits is attached at regular intervals.

[@Torchedini]

@@GerardL Yep, the expense of braided is not worth it. 2,5mm2 is flexible enough to pull through almost anything. But you take care of that by not angling the conduit too much. Since most elecchickens also place the conduit at some point you make your own job harder. Or yell at the guys before you. Lot of normal housing does not need 4mm2 or bigger.

[@TheRealWurstCase]

Thats intersting. I'm from austria and we have conduits in pretty much every house built since the 90s or so. Didn't know there was this much difference between germany and austria. The thing we have in common is that we also don't use braided wires very often. Mostly because of the simple reason that installation is stationary and doens't have to move. Also if you use braided wire you have to crimp the ends before you put them in the terminals - thats just a lot more work

[@KrisseC]

Finland here, I don't think it's even lawful here to use braided cables in new fixed undercover installations. Old renovations in small scale are not required to abide to the newest standards but if it's large scale, whole house etc, it's mandatory to update to the newest standards. We mostly use rigid conduits with large turn radiuses for easier installation and swapping. Our electricians bible is the SFS 6000 which is derived from the European HD 60364.

[@riotgear6891]

Please show more electrical comparison, or more on Scandinavian electrical installation.

[@TheNinja691]

Love your channel. Been a carpenter for 25 years and have learned a lot watching your videos. I’ve been binge watching them 😁🙌

[@mindsparx1]

Thanks so much! a good carpenter dares to admit that he is still learning things after 25 years. I'm the same, I'm learning new things all the time

[@TheNinja691]

@@david-ow3nv lol, I’m not a very good one anymore 😢😂

[@stevenpopelka8494]

From Wisconsin (U.S.A.) - interesting seeing the use of the "hammer band" vs the dubble top plate- where I live in Wisconsin we have a 40lbs per square foot snow load. We typically frame 2x6 walls 16" o/c with a dubble top plate- out trusses or rafters don't have to line up with the up with the studs, but it is generally considered the best practice -

[@peteverhelst2088]

As far as I know here in Canada all plumbing and electrical is done before insulation and vapor barrier is done. This method eliminates the need for an installation wall. Granted an installation wall allows for more insulation but it also adds cost and makes the living space smaller .

[@hakkis1098]

The function of the vapor barrier is also to make the house airtight. An airtight house leaks less heat and has a lower risk of moisture damage. Ps we make the outerwalls the same way in Finland. (except we put two boards across to ensure ventilation of the facadeboards)

[@lilcheeps6147]

Love seeing the difference from USA to you guys but it gives me a great idea to help on cost of self building a home.

[@kiwigrunt330]

Particle board (chipboard) (colloquially referred to as Weetbix) flooring is still very common in NZ because it is cheap. But we lay it straight away, so it is almost certainly going to get wet. Then it grows. Sometimes a lot! Advantage of laying it is of course that it provides a work platform. Health and Safety inspectors would not be happy otherwise (nor would I). Having the sheets continue under the walls also gives a stronger diaphragm. Hammer boards are interesting. We use 90mm framing so we’d lose too much strength if we cut half of that away. Our double top plates are strong enough to support most trusses at any point. We also have a love affair with large windows requiring bigger lintels/headers, so a single hammer board would often not suffice. OSB or other sheet product is slowly becoming more common on the outside. We never used to do that. Just tar paper or ‘wrap’ stapled to the framing. We never use it under our plaster board. We use our plaster board as bracing for lateral support, with set screw patterns. This means it must be directly fixed to the main frame. That would complicate the use of an inner frame fixed horizontally to the studs. Fixing OSB or ply under all plaster board would cost a lot more than $1000 here. It would be a very expensive way to fix a few pictures… Also, the horizontal 50x50 framing does not provide any lateral strength. Only angle braces or sheet products will do that. We use nogs/dwangs (fire blocks) commonly but that is largely a hangover from days gone by. We used to have them at 600 c/c to keep studs from twisting (we used to use wet frame before kiln drying came in some 30 years ago). Also, because sarking used to be common (with scrim and wallpaper) before plaster board was invented, it was thought that blocks were a necessary compromise for the loss of that sarking. We now typically use two rows of blocks at 800 c/c even though we know that one row is (more than) sufficient. Habits die hard. We get plaster board up to 6000 long. We now fix it horizontally to studs to avoid butt joints. This means running the sheets across the studs. We also do this for ceilings. We now avoid having joins over support as this is more likely to create cracks. We avoid having a block/nog/dwang directly under the horizontal join in a wall. Seems very counterintuitive at first. I like the pipe in pipe idea. Never heard of it. Is the actual inner pipe flexible enough to replace later? I learned my trade in Dutchland in the eighties. Timber fame building was just being introduced there at the time and we looked closely at how it was done in Scandinavia and North America. It was then deemed correct to have a vapour barrier under the plaster board, as it was in Scandinavia and North America. They have since learned, in warmer places like Florida, where air conditioning is now also more common, that this is a bad idea. The greatest challenge now IMO would be to get it right in areas where the climate is not clearly one or the other… In NZ vapour barriers are still very rare. We just don’t do it. It may become more important as we keep increasing our insulation thickness. We are a bit behind the rest of the world with that.

[@mindsparx1]

Thanks, great information. Yes, you can replace the tube quite easily. It's fun how different we build.

[@tealkerberus748]

I dispute that you'd lose strength in the top of the stud by notching it out for the hammerband. A 35mm band still leaves you 55mm of timber, and then it's all nailed or screwed together anyway. The weight of your roof is transferred directly down through the hammerband into the cut end of the stud, and the hammerband stiffens the whole wall so it's more resistant to horizontal loads. If you're really worried that the top of the stud might split out, you could plan your tiedown to hold it together. It's pretty hard for a bit of pine to get away once you've got a length of galvanised strap wrapped around it and nailed in place.

[@TheDaniel9]

When I was building houses in Sonoma County California we would do something interesting with the floor. We'd build the whole thing and put the OSB subfloor on and then cover it with exterior latex paint to act as a water barrier during build. Most paint stores will sell returned paint for a couple of bucks a gallon so it was pretty cheap. Mix up a bunch of random paint and you get a pretty cheap barrier that's durable enough to last until the roof is on. I have no idea if it would work where you are since we don't get nearly as much rain here, but it seemed to work out really well for the houses we built.

[@casondave]

THIS !! Great video and thanks tons for covering the differences, I framed houses for a while 40 years ago and enjoy watching them, The first video showing the foundation was crazy, out west we have no bedrock so seeing big stones in the crawl space was strange. Your hammer-band was also crazy but now that you've explained it so that , plus the and that installation wall is pure genius !! It's no wonder you guys build such great homes !! It IS crazy to me still seeing no real support in the from of OSB or plywood on the exterior wall, just that board but you make up for it on the inside where ALL the walls can carry loads ! We do it the way we do it in W. Canada I think first and foremost for one thing - profits and just how cheap can we go !! Nice to see your govt is just as nosy and useless as ours - thank god they care so much about us, huh?! (grin)

[@pkuula]

This was nice video. Installation walls is common practice in Finland too.

[@aaronlandry3947]

I used to be an electrician, now in IT. Very familiar with pulling cable. That Installation wall. I fricken love that. As a future homeowner, I love that. I have always disliked US building practices in this regard and this is a great solution.

[@JungleJargon]

Very interesting! In America, we put plumbing electrical and ductwork through the walls, then insulate. I like the strong construction although I don’t know how it compares to houses built in tornado country. Not a lot you can do about it I suppose other than eliminating the eave overhangs.

[@hyvemynd605]

woah the hammer band is brilliant holy shit. Also connecting walls directly to joists rather than a subfloor...you are clinically insane if you think thats worse than subfloor lol. Thanks for doing this man. Sorry about your house burning.

[@thebundok]

Excellent video. American living in Norway and it's been interesting (and in some cases frustrating) making a note of the differences.

[@ampex189]

Cool, thanks for sharing! It's really interesting to see how we all do things a bit different.

[@craigtate5930]

Love the way you raise your rafters by yourself...I always work alone as well, just not on projects this big

[@gordonclark7632]

This is very interesting and as I watched your earlier one I am amazed at how many people imputed their methods relating to their countries or areas requirements. In Australia although noy a builder, I know that we don't put OSB o the wall and then plaster board over it. The plaster is fixed straight to the studs. Most common roofing material is concrete tiles (cheaper) and they are placed on purlins nailed to the trusses. Nails are the usual fixings for the timber framing.

[@positivelyacademical1519]

The only potential disadvantage I can think of with using installation walls is if it’s used alongside flammable insulation. Would be easy for fire to spread within the gap behind the OSB/plasterboard.

[@tishomingo4524]

I agree with you but the idea has advantages with an insulator like rock-wool. Live in the mountains of US where foam is pushed.

[@brandons9398]

Very interesting video. I like how you build. Stronger than here in the US.

[@baumdesign8237]

In some parts of EU we're obligated to implement a cavity wall externally, read you've the bearing construction wall and outside the building we put on top of this construction an cavity wall. Often with aswel like in the construction walls an extra isolation with an outer protecting shell(cement board etc)! If we use cob, hemp or straw walls or only as an insulation we doesn't need a plastic breathing -condensation sheet!Never ever use glasswool as an insulation! And if we build in CLT/glulam/massive wood it chance realy everything lol. Thanks for your contributions, my intentions is kindness!

[@czechbaron111]

That’s how I’m plannig our future house. Vapor open construction, I-joist framing, OSB from inside, 320mm hemp fiber insulation, 60mm wooden fiber cover panels from outside , breathing facade with 50mm air gap and cement wooden wool panels. I just need someone qualified to help me to tweak details. I’m about to use some methods I came up with by myself so it’s probably impossible to let someone else to do it.

[@GreyDeathVaccine]

Hempcrete is my material of choice for my future build. Close to nature 🙂

[@baumdesign8237]

@@czechbaron111 Please film this and post it for everyone can you sir :-) Good job!

[@baumdesign8237]

@@GreyDeathVaccine We should all doing this actually even in an existing concrete building we can build a box hemp in a box concrete. But Grow your own Hemp on your lot/area that you bought upfront you gonna start to built your house. I will revive your soil and creates building material for your hempcrete! good luck both

[@evanking6329]

Really am enjoying your serie on how you build your houses… 👍

[@tomnietz4158]

Love your content. Wish you could take apart a California home built after 1950. Eight foot ceilings, one level and all the construction lumber could come from one or two Douglas Fir trees. Today we have earthquake standards so figure 2 to 3 times the lumber, plus earthquake strong ties and nailing clips. I did a recent California remodel and the rough metal Simpson fasteners were 1/3 the cost of rough lumber.

[@JohnDoe-fu6zt]

I also noticed your comment on the small size of OSB sheets being dictated by regulation or law. When I was framing houses in Texas in the 1980s, there was an unspoken expectation that you would never carry less than two sheets of 1/2" plywood (4x8 sheets) or 10 studs at 116 5/8" each (for ten foot walls). You could carry a single sheet of 3/4" plywood, but many guys would carry two sheets, to show off I suppose. Many times I would need only a few studs to finish a wall, but I would bring over ten studs and leave the extras for someone else to use. Likewise, if I only needed one sheet of plywood. I would carry two. This was an unspoken thing. We were young men. "A young man's glory is in his strength." I understand your method of setting trusses by hand. We would do the same thing even with a subfloor in place. You just have to swing one end of the truss further down the wall, so it's at a sufficient angle. Often we would haul all the trusses up onto the second deck and stack them there before raising the last wall. Of course the stack of trusses would be sharply angled and held to one side of the deck to make room for that last exterior wall which hadn't been raised yet. I notice you had rigged a rope from the truss peak, across to the gable, down, and back to where you could you could use it to set trusses alone. That looks very clever, and I'd love to see a video of you setting trusses alone. We always had several people: at least one on the deck and one on the front wall and one on the back wall, nailing and bracing. In later years, we set everything by crane. In the 1990s I was framing huge houses in the Washington D.C. area, with complex truss designs employing huge trusses. Many of these could only be built about twelve feet tall, so they were flat on top. A second "piggyback" truss is added to the top, to create the peak. We would set all the lower trusses, then rush to brace everything, installing 2 x 4 "catwalk" bracing every two feet, then the crane would set the piggyback trusses on top of that. Often, to save rental time on the crane, we would just stock bundles of piggybacks up there by crane, then set them by hand. Many of these ridiculous houses had extremely complicated truss plans, with girders and monos and piggybacks to create huge complex hip roofs with multiple ridge heights, valley and hips. I remember counting all the different types of trusses in one house I framed in Potomac, Maryland in about '98 or '99. There were 104 different TYPES of truss in that roof. Some would have 15 or twenty of one type, maybe six of another type. Perhaps three trusses were nailed and bolted together to form a girder truss, to which 8 or 10 mono trusses of another type were attached. So there were many hundreds of individual trusses divided among 104 unique types. I had an individual plan sheet from the engineers for every one of those 104 types ("Truss H 57-b Quantity 8 - elevation drawing - loading calculations - bracing requirements etc".) I had stacks of trusses all over the job site in preparation. I had the entire sequence of erection planned out and drew a diagram mapping the locations of all those stacks of trusses. "What's next? The G-19s? Where are they? Over there by the road!" That was a busy day. We had a huge crane, which first set up in the front of the house, which was well over 100 feet long, setting everything that could be reached from there. Then the crane had to move around to the back of the house and set up a second time to continue. That one was bigger than most, but there were many, many houses that had 40 or 50 types of trusses. Back when we were stick building complicated roofs in Texas, I would not have thought it possible to build a complex hip roof with trusses, but I learned that it is possible, and I erected many of them. Still, I prefer to stick build. There is a real pride and pleasure in calculating, cutting, and erecting a roof, especially a bastard hip roof, with individual rafters.

[@patricelebrasseur5649]

I'm in canada, next building I do I'll try to not sheet the floor and to put an hammerband, Also in Canada we sheet our wall before rising them Another thing, in eastern Canada we do fitting strips , commonly called strapping between the studs and the sheetrock, however we don't feed cable and pipes in that space because of the risk there is for them.to be damaged by sheetrock screws

[@tealkerberus748]

My next house will have the installation walls, but with battens placed vertically on the studs so the cables and pipes can run up the wall half way between two battens. In Australia everyone expects these services to run vertically, and the safest option is to put them where people expect them to be. Then it shouldn't be a problem to screw the plasterboard to the battens.

[@makatanau2878]

Thank you for this comparison and knowledge!

[@peteasmr2952]

I always liked the idea of building my own house. I now know what kind of house I want to build. And what I need to do to make that happen.

[@hanseich]

Your way of building the house is far superior than almost everything on the North America. Especially that you use vapour open material on the outside of your frame, and vapour closed (with OSB or vapour barrier) on the inside should be done in at least 50% of the North American continent. Somehow it went off all in the wrong direction with all these vapour right materials on the market here. (I’m speaking for heating dominated climate.) Thnkas for this great video. Very interesting.

[@TheJonasLinde]

Really interesting follow up of the last video! I like the concept and look forward to future comparisons. It’s very interesting that the installation wall seems to be fairly unique to Sweden. Matt Risinger should introduce it on his channel 😊

[@shgrs3664]

Thanks for the video. In Russia, there are no inspections of private homes like in Scandinavia or the USA, and this is very bad. People carry out inspections of their homes themselves. Therefore, such videos are very useful. I want to express my idea about floor insulation. When warming the floor, you can insert a piece of insulation vertically under the wall, then you will not have gaps between the floor insulation and the bottom of the wall. Even a small gap of 5 mm will steal your heat and then the floor along the wall will be cool.

[@HandymanBe]

It's interesting. A good way to explain all this. Regulations all over the world are difrent. Sheet materials also. In europe diferent countries have diferent regulation about the wood structure. In Romania we make it with 15/ 5 cm wood structure... i'm watching this build and it-s interesant for me. Educational. Good work!

[@PrivateUsername]

From Colorado in the US; I'd much rather have a house built in the style you are doing, vs a traditional US house. It makes perfect sense given the climate we have here is close to what you have.

[@AK_Ray]

Lol, the Colorado climate even on the mountain peaks is nothing like Northern Europe, Asia and north America.

[@metalrooves3651]

You are very honest and ,unlike so many, NOT JUDGEMENTAL of us Americans,just telling the differences and not verbally abusing us! thankyou

[@kilipaki87oritahiti]

A snowflake🤣🤣🤣

[@DVKajak]

Very interesting comparison! For two years now, we are living in a Scandinavian style house in Germany. The brand formerly worked together with a Swedish company but because of struggles from Swedish crown to Euro, they changed to a Danish company (Danish crown is fixed to the Euro). Building methodology kept the same as far as I know, supporting the comment you mentioned, that Danish house builders follow the same approach as the Swedes do. Our house does not have OSB on the inside of the walls, but plaster is the robust Fermacell. So mounting anything on these walls is not an issue, just like you described with the OSB backing. But I guess, OSB would have helped in noise insulation, as our walls sadly don't absorb a lot of the noises from the outside. Definitely a downside of a wooden house compared the the brick houses here in Germany - at least as long as you are living with close neighbors all around. I found the chapter about cables and pipes quite interesting. There, we seem to have the German way, as we don't have routing pipes for the cables and not the double pipes for water, either. I totally agree on you, that the marginally higher costs would really pay out later. But in Germany, costs are always very high priority, nowadays... What I like most on our house, are the windows! The Scandinavian style (we have Nordan from Norway) are so much better than the German style, I think. Normal windows over here are opening towards the inside, whereas in Scandinavia opening towards the outside is the standard. Contrary to your windows, we have the top swinging ones. Thanks for all your effort going into these videos!

[@465maltbie]

Using the board at the top instead of a header is a better idea for insulating. Headers on exterior walls often have no insulation. Charles

[@kennethhudson5513]

in south Texas (Houston) we dont have basements or crawlspaces.. Flat slab with approx. 12inch footer around perimeter with a central beam if needed 4 inch slab is fairly standard

[@marioschlebe9913]

Sehr interessant und inspirierend. Es sind einige Details anders als ich es in Deutschland gelernt habe und die ich auch besser finde, aber es gibt auch einige Details bei dir, die ich besser finde und sicher bei meinen zukünftigen Projekt, ein Bungalow und eine größere Werkstatt, übernehmen werde.

[@pd1jdw630]

Uhm 🤔 here in the Netherlands we have brick ore nowadays mostly concrete houses. However in the conduit for electrical wires we use plastic piping. To wich solid copper wires are pulled through. We have 240V here and it all gets calculated to 16amps. I’m not an electrician however. But most houses I’ve seen this Yellow plastic piping with solid copper wire are from at least 20 years and older. So I’m unsure about new construction. Anyway. Thanks for the video. It clears up so many questions I had. 👌🏻

[@artofwebdesign]

Ik kom ook uit Nederland en ik ga een grote recreatiewoning bouwen. Ik ben wel geïnspireerd op houtskelet, begrijp niet waarom we dat weinig doen in Nederland. De levensduur schijnt hetzelfde te zijn, mits goed gebouwd.

[@zachwak]

Not sure if your plastic vapor barrier is different but in the US we use a 6mm or 12mm plastic vapor barrier in the crawlspace and it does not prevent radon gas. We sometimes install radon mitigation systems that are underneath the vapor barrier, it is usually 2in perforated PVC pipe (spaced anywhere from 16 to 60 inches apart) in the gravel that vents to the outside. It is not super common, but there is growing awareness about radon, especially in the sandy soils of the southern US.

[@archbaas]

mil, not mm

[@gregben]

@@archbaas Yes, 1 mil = 0.001" (one thousandth of an inch), and 1 mm is approximately 40 mils.

[@efeber2006]

Thanks for this beautiful video. I lived in Sweden for one year so I had a chance to observe the wood houses and really appreciate the carpentry skills of them. As I am a carpenter and structural engineer in Turkey; I can mention we don't have that wood house culture anymore so I am trying to bring the wood house culture and building codes to my country. Also, I am working as a freelance structural engineer who focuses on wood structures, I have had a chance to work with many clients from different countries, therefore, your video makes me understand all the building wood houses differences easily. I am looking forward to watching your new videos

[@kgsalvage6306]

I live in a small town in Pa. in the US. Then was building for 30 years+. I built a commercial building in our small town and I actually did the drawings and the architect would come and look at the building progress and make the final drawings as I built it. Looking back, I don't know how we got away with that. I'm retired now. I was a general contractor and did the building, electrical, and plumbing. I only would sub out the HVAC.

[@sdfjsdjfghssfgdsgvfs]

Croatia experience From the initial idea to getting a building permit it takes a minimum of 3 months and while you can make your own building plans to apply for a building permit you need to have an architect, a civil engineer, electrical engineer and a mechanical engineer, all of who have to be government certified to make building plans for your house. Even if it's a small residential house. There are some exceptions but that's mostly for tiny stuff like a woodshed etc. Pretty much every house here has concrete foundation in one of two ways: a concrete slab about 30cm (12 inches) or thicker depending if there is a 2nd story or not. The other way is to have a concrete slab 12 to 15cm thick on strip footings 40 to 50cm wide and 50 to 80cm tall. The 2nd one is used when the ground isn't level but the slab is preferred since it's simpler to make. I draw plans for wooden prefabricated houses, the company standards are 62,5cm C/C on the walls. This is because plasterboard is 125cm wide. For floors we do 35cm C/C because that fits well into 251cm wide floor elements which is how long an OSB board is. Btw, our floors are 6/22cm on 35cm C/C which is quite a bit denser than what you appear to do.

[@rawwu]

Walls ate pretty much the same in Finland, but usually only plasterb inside side without osb or similar. Floor is insulated usually with white eps, glasswool goes on the walls. Most of the roofs are metal. Wood under metal sheets is not fully, like every 35cm there is a example 32x100mm size wood on top of trusses.

[@64maxpower]

I don't care what procedures and methods you use. Anyone that sets trusses solo get my respect

[@tanellaan]

No diagonal supports in the bearing walls? Minute 11:20 shows just vertical studs and horizontal hammerband. What keeps walls from changing their shape from square to rhombus ( studs tiliting right or left).

[@Subgunman]

As an architect I personally hate the use of OSB especially in the sub layer sheathing of roofing materials. Over time it will dip between trusses and is really visible as the home ages. I prefer CD grade 5/8 inch plywood. Followed by 40 pound asphalt paper under the final roofing material. I am curious as why you used concrete block for the foundation walls instead of using ICF concrete forms and steel reinforced concrete. The forms are made of rigid foam which will add a vapor and insulating barrier to the foundation. The use of osb is interesting when used behind the drywall. It’s great when it comes time to hang shelving and artwork on the walls. I am and have always been in favor of a vapor barrier inside the wall over insulation. A layer of Tyvek vapor barrier over the exterior sheathing helps vent out moisture vapor while preventing the ingress of actual water from any flaw or defect in the final exterior covering of the home. Running electrics in conduit is also a good idea. I run separate conduits for electrical and low voltage controls / cat6 cabling and satellite. Most every room in my home has runs in two different locations for TV / satellite and telephone / internet wiring. As internet wiring becomes more sophisticated I can pull out the copper cat 6 and replace with fiber optic multi mode cables. The bad part of the conduit used in this south eastern country in Europe is that it is a plastic flex. If there should be a catastrophic event inside the conduit it will be next to impossible to pull out the wires due to insulation melting to the plastic conduit. As for pre wiring before installing drywall inside, the electric boxes here are designed to be installed after the fact. In the USA our boxes are made with a nailing tab or with nail holders and nails on the top and bottom sides of the boxes. This allows one to pre position and wire all electrical rough in’s for the first electrical inspection. Now here in the part of the EU, try feeding the conduit in and out of the electrical box with wires in it with a box that is designed to be fitted after drywall is installed. It DOES NOT WORK! Can you possibly give me more information how electrical rough in’s are done in your region or a reference to a video? I think you for the valuable information you have provided!

[@mindsparx1]

Hi and thank you for all the information. I have a video with some of the wiring but not a detailed one. Here is a video of the boxes i use. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHvYaIZpbqZmq6s

[@norwegiannationalist7678]

We use installation walls here in Norway too, that we use flexible conduit for electricty and then we use 5cm insulation i belive

[@eddygoodwin7089]

Awesome video! Like the comparisons. Have you guys ever used reflectix over there? It’s like a bubble foil

[@hguldmann]

no matter what, I would prefer to have a Scandinavian-built house..

[@My_HandleIs_]

The modern Scandinavian houses are extremely efficient and uses heat pump to extract energy from the ventilated air. In Northern parts, a house only uses 6-8 MWh/year for heating! Not sure if the design works well in very hot climates, with AC running many months per year. Walls are built to be warmer on the inside…

[@robertr999]

Interesting that you say 6-8MWh that sounds a lot to me. Do you mean electricity that is used by the Heatpump or what the Heatpump produces ? We live in a concrete/brick house and we use for heating, hot water and cooling in the summer about 2,4MWh/y of electricity with the Heatpump. Approximately 10,7W/m2 per year. This is with a separate balanced ventilation system with heat recovery. Heatpump is air to water. We live in the Netherlands

[@jubmelahtes]

@@robertr999 remember that it get colder and way darker the further north you go. Also wooden houses are usually better insulated than bricks in our climate

[@robertr999]

@@jubmelahtes thnx for your reply. Yes further up north it’s coulder then here. But can you tell me if your 6-8MWh is pure electric of is it the thermal output of the heatpump? Is there a ..kWh/year per m2? for your area? Thank you in advance.

[@MrBlacksight]

Swedish houses doesn't blow away during hurricane season which is 👍

[@tealkerberus748]

I definitely prefer my good galvanised iron roof! My current house had the double top plate as per the truss manufacturer's specifications. It does the job, but next time I'm copying your hammerband. A basic understanding of timber framing says that's going to have greater structural strength than the same piece of timber on its flat. I hear your point about the ply flooring out in the rain. It's not really a concern in most parts of Australia where dry weather will generally be back soon enough after every rain, but you're in a very different climate. I like how the ply gives us a safer work surface, and it's easier to make sure the undersides of the wall frames are properly air-sealed to the ply to stop draughts and insects. You do need longer screws to go through the ply and still penetrate the same distance into the framing timber underneath, but it's worth it. We're working to not use vapour barriers in our walls here in southern Australia. In summer, the air outside is hotter than the air inside, and in winter, the air inside is warmer than the air outside. There is no place in a wall cavity that you can put a vapour barrier that won't create condensation and mould problems at some time of year! So we're working to block actual air movement as per the blower door test, but keep everything vapour permeable so moisture can escape wherever it wants to and hopefully not damage anything on its way. It's still a new science, so it will be interesting to watch how different countries resolve these challenges in years to come. I wouldn't want to hang bookshelves or cupboards on a wall with the screws only going into particlemuck or plywood. When there's no wood product behind the plasterboard, it's a lot easier to find the studs, and secure these sorts of heavy objects properly with screws into the middles of the studs. Anywhere I've added things like that to my house, if you take a shelf down you'll find a little row of patched-up pinholes in the plaster where I've tapped a very small nail through to locate the edges of the studs to make sure I'm driving screws into the middle of the timber. It's extremely accurate, doesn't take long, and the holes are covered by whatever I'm attaching to the wall anyway.

[@colinstace1758]

In Australia, most houses have cavity walls with timber frames on the inside with brick exterior walls. No vapor barrier and no shingle rooves.

[@JCBerner]

You are doing a great job - both building, as well as producing these great videos 👋👋👋

[@aaronvanhoucke2065]

very interisting. i'm from Belgium and we also use a vapor barier on the inside of new or renovated houses. But i am not a fan of using them. We somtimes use reed mats and a clay or lime plaster insted. this is a way more breathable wall and this way might not need a ventalation system in your house. Also, i personly like to use woodfiber insulation or other natrural insulation. this has more thermal mass to keep the house cool in summer and is way nicer to work with compared to rock or glass wool.

[@artofwebdesign]

Hello, I come from the Netherlands. The use of plastic in the wall for damp is also a pain in the ass for me. I want to use 'houtwolcement platen afgewerkt met leem' [wood fibre cement panels with loam/clay] but I don't know if that is a good option concerning the damp.

[@joakimpettersson7646]

Great video! I been wathing american builders for over a year now, like the absolutley awesome Perkins builders brothers :D, anywhya, I've been wondering sooo long about theese things since Iäm not a carpenter myself. Thx!

[@mindsparx1]

Perkins builders are awesome, i watch them too

[@16jan1986]

In Denmark we used ply for the floor before the price rose.... Also we use soft sub roofs of oneway permeable material with long life(mine is guaranteed to 25 yeaes

[@davetooes6179]

I built my first house on the Central Coast of NSW, Australia. Halfway between Sydney and Newcastle. It was built in the early 70's My block was situated over a long wall coal mine extraction site It mine was at a depth of over 300 metres. It requires that any foundation or slab meet the requirements of the Mine Subsidence Board to stay together if the ground subsides. If you don't meet their requirements then any structural damage done due to subsidence will not have its rectification paid for by the Mine Subsidence Board t. In reality that meant thicker concrete and thicker rebars. It was calculated it cost nearly double what a normal slab would have been on my type of soil. This extra cost was paid by the builder/owner NOT the coal mine. The rest of the cottage was a standard frame house. With lightweight outer walls and gyprock inner. With a tin roof.

[@FredrikKZ]

The crawling space is somewhat common in older houses in Norway, but is no longer recommended. This is both radon and moisture related. Nowadays most homes are built on a concrete slab, insulated both under and on the sides. In my experience most homes are also, as in Sweden, build with 48mm additions on the outer walls for electrical and plumbing. On the other hand, we use cc 600mm on the trusses.

[@704queencitygoon6]

Sorry to hear that you lost your previous home due to a fire! I have a lot of respect for you building a house by yourself

[@joakimdahlstrom2532]

It sertainly look that we tend to be specifically keen on the isolation part in scandinavia. comming is to have 45+220, the norther you get the 45+220+45:ier you go :)

[@joakimdahlstrom2532]

A huge plus side is, 45+220 windows looks so great! No extra "fönsterbläck" (google translate it from swedish) needed. :) Blinders do actually do their work and wases fits without interfearing with the inner space.

[@olegk11]

22:52 conduit use 8n USA is dependent on local codes. Major northern cities and surrounding suburbs use conduit, Chicago, New York.. the rest is Romex.

[@dapsychopomp244]

In AU - hammerband would provide more rigidity and help stop racking forces and buckling end condition.. also act as a top batten to attach coverings. Double Top plate are a lazy way of doing this with some ply sheets on the walls in the corners (shear panel) of diagonal straps. Its common to use 70x35mm or 90x45mm timber for walls with Noggins for similar reasons. Nails are ductile and can accommodate a lot of movement before snapping (shearing & other long term cyclic forces like wind load, thermal expansion etc) whereas a screw is stronger in longitudinal tension as its design to provide clamping forces but snaps easier (brittle) when bent (lateral force) - its deliberate and material specific.

[@claytonpabst]

At first glance I considered the shear movement when installing the trusses with no wall sheets but I think that hammer-band acts as a shear brace

[@claytonpabst]

I certainly loved all of these videos; I've watched the timelaps 3-4 times and the full series once through. Thank you for putting them together

[@OvertravelX]

I really enjoyed this! The world should talk and share more.

[@mattluongo7763]

I could be wrong because I'm not from there but I believe in The city of Chicago all electrical wires of any kind are run in conduits. And that might have something to do with the great fire? Everywhere else in America they go by the NEC

[@NSall-ku8nk]

Kanonbra video! Riktigt kul bygge att följa! 👍

[@jimpie231]

The ranch home I’m living in (suburb of Chicago, Illinois, USA) was built 20 years ago. I’m the original owner in a tract subdivision. It has a full basement and a double brick fire place, one in the basement and one in the family room on the first floor. The home is 53’ x 38’, 2240sqft., not counting the attached 3 car garage (700sqft). It has three steel I beams and 6 metal posts in the basement supporting the main floor. The floor was built first, with tongue and grooved plywood then the factory built walls were erected in one day and various factory built trusses were also erected the next day. Then the 5/8” plywood covered the roof then shingles. The foundation was started at the end of March in 2003 and we got the keys and were able to move in at the end of May in 2003. The middle of the home has a 14’ vaulted ceiling and the whole home has 9’ ceilings thru-out! It has 2 full baths on the main level and one in the basement. There is no plumbing in an outside wall. The home has many built-in closets. It was built with metal conduit for the solid electric lines. I have had no problems with the home since it was built. This is not a custom home, but a tract home.

[@robertr999]

Great videos you make!! You place the Vapor barrier halfway your insulation, why there? Is de asfalt board moisture open? Or is it more logical to have the Vapor barrier on the outside? I’m a bit confused on this topic. 😅 In another video you showed a magnetic tool for drilling holes for electric boxes. Can you describe of have a Swedish link for that tool? I cannot find it in the Netherlands . Thank you in advance for your reply.

[@mindsparx1]

We place the vapor barrier before the installation wall so that we don't have to cut in to it when installing stuff. The magnet thing is actually a Swedish invention, you can read about it here. jij-plast.se/hole-in-one-originalet/

[@robertr999]

@@mindsparx1 Thank you for your fast reply. The next time I go to Sweden I go to a hardware store for this. 👍