I am 76 years old. I can’t remember the year but everything used to be on 16” centers. Now almost everything is 24”. We usually don’t use OSB inside but I see it is a good idea. Walls get really weak when you drill them full of holes. I was building three story apartments in Colorado. I had just ran 3” pipe in on the first floor for electric in all the apartments. They delivered drywall. No one was there the weekend the floor fell in from all the holes I had drilled. I had questioned it before doing the work. That was what was called for in the plans. Another point most contractors use heavier drywall in the ceiling just for the added fire rating. Enjoyed your video and plan on watching more of them. I had never thought about doing the top plate any different. I like the way you do it and see the advantages. Later
@jelsner50778 ай бұрын
American here. Your hammerband technique makes so much more sense than a double top plate, especially when factoring in no need for window headers. The A-frame roof joists make more sense, too. In the US, roof trusses are commonly used, making the attic space unusable. I also think using OSB on the walls makes a lot of sense along with the "double wall" so wiring and plumbing can be run without drilling holes in the studs. In the US, there is a newer OSB designed for subfloors that is waterproof. So we've got you there! I would be interested in how a full two story house is framed in Sweden. Do you do hammerbands around each floor? Also, do you use wooden I-beams for floor joists there? Thanks for the fascinating videos.
@hugoakerlund51146 ай бұрын
We typically use lumber for floor joists. 45mm x 195mm or bigger are common. There are other enginered joists made with osb, plywood and masonite but those are more often used in commercial buildings.
@herbrotter Жыл бұрын
Here are my comments from a North American: 1. You have hit the nail on the head again. 2. Excellent update on the differences of building styles. 3. Excellent on point loading from top of roof to the foundation. In particular, the direct connection between structural members and not having a subfloor on top of the frame. 4. Great clarification on the roof trusses. Cannot beat the strength of an A-Frame type roof truss construction. 5. Moreover, the detailed explanation of the Hammerband and how you use it conjunction with a header for a door or window. That combination would be a hybrid box beam. Which you can not beat the load capacity of it as the load is spread to multiply framing studs. You a truly an excellent craftsman and I cannot wait for wait next instore to view.
@mindsparx1 Жыл бұрын
Thank you, I'm learning and hopefully i can expand on the differences in my next part.
@nordiskvilla104 Жыл бұрын
Hello Mindsparx! I'm new to your channel, very nice content. I live in Järna with my family currently building my house there. As I understand you are in the southern stockholm area as well. It would be great to meet up maybe for a koffe if you open to it and "exchange minds"😊 Mvh Gergely Doman
@HerrBrutal-bl2fk7 ай бұрын
I'm a cook with 14 years of experience, hoping to one day call myself a chef. Watching this video and reading the comments fills me with admiration and also a sense of belonging, because everyone who has adopted a truly professional attitude to his or her life's calling is family to me.
@samTollefson Жыл бұрын
As a retired builder/contractor in the US, it always amused me when the young guys would stubbornly stand on their way of doing things as the only "right" way to do it. As a person gains experience and the knowledge that comes with it, it becomes obvious that there are many different ways to do something and accomplish the same goals. The circumstances, type of materials and tools available, experience of the carpenter, codes, and lots of other circumstances, can all lead to using different methods of putting something together. The goal is to accomplish the task in the most efficient and economical manner and make the homeowner happy.
@hugoakerlund51146 ай бұрын
Keep safety in mind. I've been watching american house framing on youtube and a lot of the things they do in those videos would never fly in scandinavia. Like walking on top plates and working on scaffolds without railings. Not only is it illegal here in Sweden but most guys in Sweden would also refuse to work under the conditions that seems common in America.
@samTollefson6 ай бұрын
@@hugoakerlund5114 I agree; many young construction workers are fast and loose with safety concerns. Much of that is for speed (making more money) and showing how macho they are. When I visited distant relatives in Norway years ago, I asked an older uncle what the people here think about Americans; he thought about it for a while and said that they think of Americans and America as one would think of an adolescent child. The more I thought about that, the more I had to agree! Stay safe, my friend!
@baverfjant2 ай бұрын
@@samTollefson We do have issues with companies not providing their employees with sufficient safety measures when they are shoveling snow off of roofs during the winters in Sweden. I have friends and an older brother who have worked with it a few winters. So nobody is perfect in the end. My brother worked for a company that didn't mess around and did everything right, providing rigid harnesses, helmets, and snow boots with cleats. But he often told me about running into other crews who either lacked one or the other of those things. One time they only had the helmets, boots they had to get on their own and there were no harness. Two of my friends quit on their first day when the boss couldn't be arsed to clear snow from the anchor points or come up with a solution, so the workers could fasten their harnesses, telling them to just work their way there and do it themselves. And it was pretty damn far up, on a very slippery roof. People die from falling off roofs pretty much every year because of that. It's seasonal work and not as regulated I think. Sometimes it's companies doing ordinary roofing and such as well, like my brothers employer, and they do it right. Sometimes it's less serious companies that were possibly started the same year, and they'll shut down when the winter season is over only to return the next one.
@gustasvindziulis Жыл бұрын
I have discovered this channel a few weeks ago. I have watched all your videos more than once. I will be building a house this summer, but all the framing videos are how Americans do it, very little information is about how the Europeans do it, so this channel really helped me figure all the things out
@thisMF Жыл бұрын
Me too! Same situation!
@fred1418 Жыл бұрын
The reason you have some many videos on American is because to the most part it is a NATIONAL building code with bulletins added if a State wants more. The minimum you are allowed are those regulations. In Europe all the risk is carried by your contractor and it is also why in Europe to build it is more expensive. All lumber sold in North America already must be Grade stamped by the sawmill, so when you buy the lumber, you already know what you have, not so in Europe. I have built in Europe and I find that they all seem to want to keep it secret to protect their industry.
@brickan2 Жыл бұрын
@@fred1418 Hello, could you give me an example or two? Your comment is very interesting. It sounds to me contractors are competing with know-how in EU and in the US everything is more transparant?
@robertboyer5498 Жыл бұрын
@@brickan2 maybe they only share with apprentices in Europe? In the US, the apprenticeship program is in shambles. Most people learn at trade schools or on the job. I don’t think there is any hidden knowledge.
@Coole-ee1vg28 күн бұрын
@@fred1418 All construction timber are graded and stamped in a correct way in the Nordic countrys . In Sweden there is a building built in tree with eleven floors. It's built in Hyllie, Malmö . Google and check it out...
@Zorthaify9 ай бұрын
Fantastic video, fantastic series. Loved watching you build your house and learn how other countries do things! A standard practice now in north America is extensive waterproofing. We use "flashing tape" and other self adhering waterproof barriers extensively to prevent water infiltration. For example, for windows, flashing tape would be applied directly to the frame, and then new windows have a nailing flange attached to the OSB siding, and flashing tape would be applied over that, along with metal flashing on the top and bottom to divert water. Or for the roof deck, we would apply a similar tape flashing material to cover the roof deck, and then apply metal drip edge flashing over the fascia, and then apply flashing over the fascia and the entire roof deck. Fascia would also have separate flashing. This combination of flashing tape and flashing metal generally covers all seams on the exterior of a house, under the siding material. I notice that your windows didnt have any nailing flanges, they are what we call retro fit windows (they fit into a wood frame instead of the flange being attached to the house). How do you water proof your windows and seams?
@dare2beam Жыл бұрын
I work in construction and live in Denmark. I am from Bulgaria (south of Europe). Got my education (In construction) here in DK and I can say from my experience that the biggest difference I see in methods is the Earthquake resistance and stability of the building. Scandinavia is in the middle of the European Techtronic plate and when we had to calculate seismic actions - its virtually 0. On the other hand Bulgaria has a code where all buildings must comply to regulations that make sure the buildings withstands 9 on the Richter scale. The amount of reinforced concrete used there is un imaginable to my Danish collogues. That changes how the different construction elements look like and where people spend most money on their house/building. Furthermore, soils in Northern Europe have been compressed by the glaciers that came from the north pole during the ice ages. That has compacted some layers of the soil to a very high degree. Making it very easy to build on - especially small buildings like single family homes. It seems to me that this makes it possible that people in northern Europe to spend less on the structural elements of the building.
@mindsparx1 Жыл бұрын
Thank you, very interesting.
@bakaariiim Жыл бұрын
Worst building in America Has this caused human death? More than 50,000 people died in the earthquake in TURKEY (06.02.2023 earthquakes) and millions of people became homeless. Hundreds of thousands were injured. What has been done is purely for profit.
@fateish69 Жыл бұрын
i built my house almost exactly the way you did (i am from austria), instead of foil my vapor barrier is OSB3 with sealed joints (standard here). only the foundation is a baseplate with strip footing, insulated on top with extruded styrofoam. for the rest of the house we used hemp which is more expensive but has outstanding insualtion properties. the walls have been planked with boards made of plaster fiber (heavier and more durable than normal drywall). i love your videos and cannot wait to see how the house will look when finished :)
@prone_wolf8871 Жыл бұрын
I can definitely see the benefit of the hammer band....I've never seen that but would incorporate it into my projects
@natewarner Жыл бұрын
Nicely done; thank you! American building styles have changed over the years, even when focused on a single climate. (I bought a 125 year old house and had to research as I was doing a basically complete gut of the inside. 125 years of small improvements, mostly removed and replaced with modern: 5 generations of knob and tube wiring + at least 5 of romex replaced by modern romex; galvanized pipes by PEX; cast iron waste pipes by PVC; plaster/lath by drywall; no inslulation by... insulation...) My 125 YO house uses a form of balloon framing, though modern by the era: there's a subfloor covered platform built over the basement (was dirt, concreted over later) and the ~16"OC 2x4 walls are built all the way to the top of the second floor and double capped. This got a platform built on top to put the roof over, so 2nd floor was not built like most modern homes around here with a platform at each level. The house also has a form of hammer band, but I suspect it was mostly put there for the building process: it's only on the walls that support the 2nd floor joists. Joists are flat nailed to the bottom-of-first-floor to roofline 2x4 studs. Modern construction would *never* allow this technique and I've heard so many comments about adding fire blocks it's amazing (that wasn't feasible, though). I really appreciate these videos; seeing how it's done in different places around the world is great fun! Thank you!
@CrapE_DM Жыл бұрын
When I saw you do the hammer band, I (as an American) said, "that's a GREAT idea!"
@metalrooves3651 Жыл бұрын
You are very honest and ,unlike so many, NOT JUDGEMENTAL of us Americans,just telling the differences and not verbally abusing us! thankyou
@kilipaki87oritahiti2 ай бұрын
A snowflake🤣🤣🤣
@Heimbasteln Жыл бұрын
As a german electrician I can tell you that we definetly do not use braided wire in house walls very often (if at all), I have also never seen a house with conduits, though I dont work on residential houses, so my sample size is small, only friends and families houses. But I will definetly install conduits when I redo my walls and electrical. But you can definetly pull solid wire through conduit, as long as its not something very thick like the cable that supplies the house. We pull 50*1,5mm² cables through conduits in the earth at work, so a 5*2,5mm², which is usually the biggest cable that you need shouldnt be a problem at all (and its probably not a workout like the big cables at work).
@GerardL Жыл бұрын
In The Netherlands solid core 2.5mm2 installation wires through conduits stiff or flexible is standard. You can buy pre-wired flexible conduits in our local builders market. re-wiring is not hard, you pull the wire through in stead of pushing which works fine as long as the flexible conduits is attached at regular intervals.
@Torchedini Жыл бұрын
@@GerardL Yep, the expense of braided is not worth it. 2,5mm2 is flexible enough to pull through almost anything. But you take care of that by not angling the conduit too much. Since most elecchickens also place the conduit at some point you make your own job harder. Or yell at the guys before you. Lot of normal housing does not need 4mm2 or bigger.
@TheRealWurstCase Жыл бұрын
Thats intersting. I'm from austria and we have conduits in pretty much every house built since the 90s or so. Didn't know there was this much difference between germany and austria. The thing we have in common is that we also don't use braided wires very often. Mostly because of the simple reason that installation is stationary and doens't have to move. Also if you use braided wire you have to crimp the ends before you put them in the terminals - thats just a lot more work
@stevenpopelka8494 Жыл бұрын
Loving the video - commenting as I watch it. - noticing the larger spans with the roof trusses and seeing you use dimensional lumber instead of sheeting for the decking - we do something similar in the U.S.A. when we build post frame buildings. We put trusses 4 foot, 6 foot or 8 foot on center and span them with "purlins" - 2x4 or 2x6 lumber on edge- we do this mostly with steel roof buildings, sometimes we will sheet it with osb, but mostly we go steel roofing right to the purlins-
@rhysfirth3506 Жыл бұрын
As a kiwi, I found your foundations mentioned pretty interesting. What has gained popularity in modern houses post the 2011 Christchurch quakes is what is called "rib raft" foundations. It's a combination of the floating slab found on sesimicly stable areas with the trench and concrete style. The idea is the reinforced concrete in the trenches act like ribbing on a casting, tired into the reinforced concrete of the slab, tying it all together to the entire foundation stays together and rides the quake like a raft. Unsupported slabs would break into several pieces, but being all tired together the whole thing just holds together.
@Kallenator1988 Жыл бұрын
We absolutely do installation walls in Norway too brorsan! It's very useful =)
@fredrikantfolk991 Жыл бұрын
and here in finland it's the same .
@jeroenred Жыл бұрын
The wires in conduit in The Netherlands, Belgium and Germany are solid, never braided (about AWG13). Pulling them through conduit is not easy but doable (5 wires in 5/8" conduit). Concrete and brick houses here are built with just conduit. The wires are installed later.
@LordFlash1244 ай бұрын
Totally brilliant and intensely informative series of videos. I am in the UK and will utilise a major amount of the skills and information that you provided here and in your other videos in my self build timber construction. Many thanks.
@chham57 Жыл бұрын
Great video. I have really enjoyed comparing and contrasting your building methods with what we use here in the U.S.. I was blown away when you stated that your osb, chip board size was regulated by what was deemed safe to carry. Wish we had that here. 48”x96” 3/4 ply isn’t fun.
@bfelb Жыл бұрын
That's roughly the dimensions we use in Germany as a 'one man board'.
@margaretbear Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. Your videos are very well done, and you have an immense amount of knowledge. It's nice to see how much interest you take in building customs around the world. I live in the USA, but have lived many different places. The place I lived that is most comparable to where you are is North Dakota. I live in Florida now and there are a lot of differences in how things are built because of the climate. Here we have to worry about hurricanes, very high ground water levels, and sandy soil. Basements are almost unheard of as a result. The debate about vapor barriers rages on here since most of the year the 'cold' side of the wall is on the inside of the house. Your building methods and execution are so well thought out, and have such attention to detail. It is a joy to watch your them.
@kwileyk Жыл бұрын
This is fascinating and very educational. Thank you for assembling this updated version. I've been following your progress on this channel for a while, and I really appreciate your insight.
@lilcheeps6147 Жыл бұрын
Love seeing the difference from USA to you guys but it gives me a great idea to help on cost of self building a home.
@deycas Жыл бұрын
Great video again! here in the Patagonian region we have a collection of styles to build in wood, mostly USAish. This videos teach a lot! building like your videos is about 20 years old here. And the typical log-cabin style about 50 years. Our traditionall style and cheaper here, is massonry with mortar, concrete and bricks (+100 years) but the benefits and building with wood has me whatching your videos for hours! thanks!
@stevenfrazier8939 Жыл бұрын
I have looked all over the internet and you are the only one with a video showing the hammar band house construction method. if you are able to, please do a video only on that subject.
@ricknplano1401 Жыл бұрын
Thank you. Very informative. Love the Hammer band.
@Concreteshoplife Жыл бұрын
I love your approach and how you answer comments. People make everything too complicated and yes... building is a big business and God forbid( especially in US where I live) you build a house on your own and take away profit from so many leeches... ;)
@kiwigrunt330 Жыл бұрын
Particle board (chipboard) (colloquially referred to as Weetbix) flooring is still very common in NZ because it is cheap. But we lay it straight away, so it is almost certainly going to get wet. Then it grows. Sometimes a lot! Advantage of laying it is of course that it provides a work platform. Health and Safety inspectors would not be happy otherwise (nor would I). Having the sheets continue under the walls also gives a stronger diaphragm. Hammer boards are interesting. We use 90mm framing so we’d lose too much strength if we cut half of that away. Our double top plates are strong enough to support most trusses at any point. We also have a love affair with large windows requiring bigger lintels/headers, so a single hammer board would often not suffice. OSB or other sheet product is slowly becoming more common on the outside. We never used to do that. Just tar paper or ‘wrap’ stapled to the framing. We never use it under our plaster board. We use our plaster board as bracing for lateral support, with set screw patterns. This means it must be directly fixed to the main frame. That would complicate the use of an inner frame fixed horizontally to the studs. Fixing OSB or ply under all plaster board would cost a lot more than $1000 here. It would be a very expensive way to fix a few pictures… Also, the horizontal 50x50 framing does not provide any lateral strength. Only angle braces or sheet products will do that. We use nogs/dwangs (fire blocks) commonly but that is largely a hangover from days gone by. We used to have them at 600 c/c to keep studs from twisting (we used to use wet frame before kiln drying came in some 30 years ago). Also, because sarking used to be common (with scrim and wallpaper) before plaster board was invented, it was thought that blocks were a necessary compromise for the loss of that sarking. We now typically use two rows of blocks at 800 c/c even though we know that one row is (more than) sufficient. Habits die hard. We get plaster board up to 6000 long. We now fix it horizontally to studs to avoid butt joints. This means running the sheets across the studs. We also do this for ceilings. We now avoid having joins over support as this is more likely to create cracks. We avoid having a block/nog/dwang directly under the horizontal join in a wall. Seems very counterintuitive at first. I like the pipe in pipe idea. Never heard of it. Is the actual inner pipe flexible enough to replace later? I learned my trade in Dutchland in the eighties. Timber fame building was just being introduced there at the time and we looked closely at how it was done in Scandinavia and North America. It was then deemed correct to have a vapour barrier under the plaster board, as it was in Scandinavia and North America. They have since learned, in warmer places like Florida, where air conditioning is now also more common, that this is a bad idea. The greatest challenge now IMO would be to get it right in areas where the climate is not clearly one or the other… In NZ vapour barriers are still very rare. We just don’t do it. It may become more important as we keep increasing our insulation thickness. We are a bit behind the rest of the world with that.
@mindsparx1 Жыл бұрын
Thanks, great information. Yes, you can replace the tube quite easily. It's fun how different we build.
@tealkerberus7487 ай бұрын
I dispute that you'd lose strength in the top of the stud by notching it out for the hammerband. A 35mm band still leaves you 55mm of timber, and then it's all nailed or screwed together anyway. The weight of your roof is transferred directly down through the hammerband into the cut end of the stud, and the hammerband stiffens the whole wall so it's more resistant to horizontal loads. If you're really worried that the top of the stud might split out, you could plan your tiedown to hold it together. It's pretty hard for a bit of pine to get away once you've got a length of galvanised strap wrapped around it and nailed in place.
@Staroy Жыл бұрын
Super interesting and really well put together video (your new house too!)
@PrivateUsername Жыл бұрын
From Colorado in the US; I'd much rather have a house built in the style you are doing, vs a traditional US house. It makes perfect sense given the climate we have here is close to what you have.
@AK_Ray Жыл бұрын
Lol, the Colorado climate even on the mountain peaks is nothing like Northern Europe, Asia and north America.
@aaronlandry3947 Жыл бұрын
I used to be an electrician, now in IT. Very familiar with pulling cable. That Installation wall. I fricken love that. As a future homeowner, I love that. I have always disliked US building practices in this regard and this is a great solution.
@TheNinja691 Жыл бұрын
Love your channel. Been a carpenter for 25 years and have learned a lot watching your videos. I’ve been binge watching them 😁🙌
@mindsparx1 Жыл бұрын
Thanks so much! a good carpenter dares to admit that he is still learning things after 25 years. I'm the same, I'm learning new things all the time
@TheNinja69111 ай бұрын
@@david-ow3nv lol, I’m not a very good one anymore 😢😂
@metricstormtrooper Жыл бұрын
What you call Fire Stops, are called noggins in Australia and are not use to stop Fire, but to shorten the effective lengths of the studs to reduce deflection and strengthen them. Normal studs in Australia are 90 x 35mm as we generally do not need as much insulation space as you would need in Sweden or America. Here typical wall insulation is R3.8 .
@baumdesign8237 Жыл бұрын
In some parts of EU we're obligated to implement a cavity wall externally, read you've the bearing construction wall and outside the building we put on top of this construction an cavity wall. Often with aswel like in the construction walls an extra isolation with an outer protecting shell(cement board etc)! If we use cob, hemp or straw walls or only as an insulation we doesn't need a plastic breathing -condensation sheet!Never ever use glasswool as an insulation! And if we build in CLT/glulam/massive wood it chance realy everything lol. Thanks for your contributions, my intentions is kindness!
@czechbaron111 Жыл бұрын
That’s how I’m plannig our future house. Vapor open construction, I-joist framing, OSB from inside, 320mm hemp fiber insulation, 60mm wooden fiber cover panels from outside , breathing facade with 50mm air gap and cement wooden wool panels. I just need someone qualified to help me to tweak details. I’m about to use some methods I came up with by myself so it’s probably impossible to let someone else to do it.
@GreyDeathVaccine Жыл бұрын
Hempcrete is my material of choice for my future build. Close to nature 🙂
@baumdesign8237 Жыл бұрын
@@czechbaron111 Please film this and post it for everyone can you sir :-) Good job!
@baumdesign8237 Жыл бұрын
@@GreyDeathVaccine We should all doing this actually even in an existing concrete building we can build a box hemp in a box concrete. But Grow your own Hemp on your lot/area that you bought upfront you gonna start to built your house. I will revive your soil and creates building material for your hempcrete! good luck both
@thebundok Жыл бұрын
Excellent video. American living in Norway and it's been interesting (and in some cases frustrating) making a note of the differences.
@cabanu Жыл бұрын
Nice video! I am in the process of drawing plans for my own house and am being inspired by the techniques shown in the videos. In Belgium, we are able to handle all aspects of the building process, including electrical work, as long as it is inspected prior to use. We als use installation walls.
@henryostman5740 Жыл бұрын
As a 'reformed' city planner (got out of that business) I realized that a lot of what we did had the principle effect of making homes more expensive and not better as a result. The biggest knock-off is 'impact fees', most of these start out small, to cover the cost of the building (inspection) dept. but how they've grown! I've heard of towns that get $75k for a single family house. I owned an apartment house that didn't cost that much per unit to build and it was a pretty good unit. Nails vs screws, american framers can drive a 16d nail in one blow, faster than the fastest screwgun, and nailguns are faster still. Speed isn't everything but I have never heard of a house failing due to weak nails. As for nail pullout, that isn't easy either. You can go to ringshank or cement coated nails, there are even 'screw' nails that can be later screwed out and screwed back in but are still driven with a nailgun. The common nail got its start back in the early days of the 19th century with the development of nail making machines that replaced the blacksmith at this trade, this one item revolutionized building construction. I own a bunch of screwguns so I'm not against screws, but they are slower and more expensive and in most situations don't add structural value to the equation. There are applications where they should be used but generally if a wood wall or structure fails, it's not the nails that caused it. Your roof truss spacing is more than is common in US but we use purlins across the roof to support plywood decking. The code should spec out the purlin spacing based on the roof loading. American homes built in the late '40s/50s housing boom are getting on 75 years old and are still standing and mostly as proud as they day they were built. Wood houses need care and upkeep but are cost efficient and were able to meet our needs rapidly with lower skilled workers needed for assembly. Remember too that those palaces of Europe have mostly wood interion construction and wood structures to hold up the roofs. What does strike me is our use of platform construction. It i, building the floor deck as a flat surface then using that deck as a platform on which to build the wall frames that in turn are swung up as a complete unit. It is not unusual for the walls to be completed within a day by a three or four man crew, generally a lead carpenter (skilled), one or two assistants, and the saw guy feeding them cut lumber. It's an ''on the ground' (but off the dirt) job so you are not likely to fall, you can see everything and have a flat (hopefully) surface to work on.
@totallynottrademarked5279 Жыл бұрын
The worst is when they added almost $100k to our homes here just due to putting in a sprinkler requirement. I am all for regulations to ensure a minium standard of building but damn them when they add a un-neccasry item just to line some fields pockets.
@peteverhelst2088 Жыл бұрын
As far as I know here in Canada all plumbing and electrical is done before insulation and vapor barrier is done. This method eliminates the need for an installation wall. Granted an installation wall allows for more insulation but it also adds cost and makes the living space smaller .
@craigtate5930 Жыл бұрын
Love the way you raise your rafters by yourself...I always work alone as well, just not on projects this big
@DVKajak7 ай бұрын
Very interesting comparison! For two years now, we are living in a Scandinavian style house in Germany. The brand formerly worked together with a Swedish company but because of struggles from Swedish crown to Euro, they changed to a Danish company (Danish crown is fixed to the Euro). Building methodology kept the same as far as I know, supporting the comment you mentioned, that Danish house builders follow the same approach as the Swedes do. Our house does not have OSB on the inside of the walls, but plaster is the robust Fermacell. So mounting anything on these walls is not an issue, just like you described with the OSB backing. But I guess, OSB would have helped in noise insulation, as our walls sadly don't absorb a lot of the noises from the outside. Definitely a downside of a wooden house compared the the brick houses here in Germany - at least as long as you are living with close neighbors all around. I found the chapter about cables and pipes quite interesting. There, we seem to have the German way, as we don't have routing pipes for the cables and not the double pipes for water, either. I totally agree on you, that the marginally higher costs would really pay out later. But in Germany, costs are always very high priority, nowadays... What I like most on our house, are the windows! The Scandinavian style (we have Nordan from Norway) are so much better than the German style, I think. Normal windows over here are opening towards the inside, whereas in Scandinavia opening towards the outside is the standard. Contrary to your windows, we have the top swinging ones. Thanks for all your effort going into these videos!
@TheDaniel9 Жыл бұрын
When I was building houses in Sonoma County California we would do something interesting with the floor. We'd build the whole thing and put the OSB subfloor on and then cover it with exterior latex paint to act as a water barrier during build. Most paint stores will sell returned paint for a couple of bucks a gallon so it was pretty cheap. Mix up a bunch of random paint and you get a pretty cheap barrier that's durable enough to last until the roof is on. I have no idea if it would work where you are since we don't get nearly as much rain here, but it seemed to work out really well for the houses we built.
@JohnDoe-fu6zt Жыл бұрын
I also noticed your comment on the small size of OSB sheets being dictated by regulation or law. When I was framing houses in Texas in the 1980s, there was an unspoken expectation that you would never carry less than two sheets of 1/2" plywood (4x8 sheets) or 10 studs at 116 5/8" each (for ten foot walls). You could carry a single sheet of 3/4" plywood, but many guys would carry two sheets, to show off I suppose. Many times I would need only a few studs to finish a wall, but I would bring over ten studs and leave the extras for someone else to use. Likewise, if I only needed one sheet of plywood. I would carry two. This was an unspoken thing. We were young men. "A young man's glory is in his strength." I understand your method of setting trusses by hand. We would do the same thing even with a subfloor in place. You just have to swing one end of the truss further down the wall, so it's at a sufficient angle. Often we would haul all the trusses up onto the second deck and stack them there before raising the last wall. Of course the stack of trusses would be sharply angled and held to one side of the deck to make room for that last exterior wall which hadn't been raised yet. I notice you had rigged a rope from the truss peak, across to the gable, down, and back to where you could you could use it to set trusses alone. That looks very clever, and I'd love to see a video of you setting trusses alone. We always had several people: at least one on the deck and one on the front wall and one on the back wall, nailing and bracing. In later years, we set everything by crane. In the 1990s I was framing huge houses in the Washington D.C. area, with complex truss designs employing huge trusses. Many of these could only be built about twelve feet tall, so they were flat on top. A second "piggyback" truss is added to the top, to create the peak. We would set all the lower trusses, then rush to brace everything, installing 2 x 4 "catwalk" bracing every two feet, then the crane would set the piggyback trusses on top of that. Often, to save rental time on the crane, we would just stock bundles of piggybacks up there by crane, then set them by hand. Many of these ridiculous houses had extremely complicated truss plans, with girders and monos and piggybacks to create huge complex hip roofs with multiple ridge heights, valley and hips. I remember counting all the different types of trusses in one house I framed in Potomac, Maryland in about '98 or '99. There were 104 different TYPES of truss in that roof. Some would have 15 or twenty of one type, maybe six of another type. Perhaps three trusses were nailed and bolted together to form a girder truss, to which 8 or 10 mono trusses of another type were attached. So there were many hundreds of individual trusses divided among 104 unique types. I had an individual plan sheet from the engineers for every one of those 104 types ("Truss H 57-b Quantity 8 - elevation drawing - loading calculations - bracing requirements etc".) I had stacks of trusses all over the job site in preparation. I had the entire sequence of erection planned out and drew a diagram mapping the locations of all those stacks of trusses. "What's next? The G-19s? Where are they? Over there by the road!" That was a busy day. We had a huge crane, which first set up in the front of the house, which was well over 100 feet long, setting everything that could be reached from there. Then the crane had to move around to the back of the house and set up a second time to continue. That one was bigger than most, but there were many, many houses that had 40 or 50 types of trusses. Back when we were stick building complicated roofs in Texas, I would not have thought it possible to build a complex hip roof with trusses, but I learned that it is possible, and I erected many of them. Still, I prefer to stick build. There is a real pride and pleasure in calculating, cutting, and erecting a roof, especially a bastard hip roof, with individual rafters.
@JungleJargon Жыл бұрын
Very interesting! In America, we put plumbing electrical and ductwork through the walls, then insulate. I like the strong construction although I don’t know how it compares to houses built in tornado country. Not a lot you can do about it I suppose other than eliminating the eave overhangs.
@Erik_MN Жыл бұрын
Great video. I'm doing a post frame style house in MN (USA). This is a 3rd option not covered in this video. It will have a double wall for the reasons you described regarding not breaking the vapor barrier. The foundation is concrete piers.
@patricelebrasseur5649 Жыл бұрын
I'm in canada, next building I do I'll try to not sheet the floor and to put an hammerband, Also in Canada we sheet our wall before rising them Another thing, in eastern Canada we do fitting strips , commonly called strapping between the studs and the sheetrock, however we don't feed cable and pipes in that space because of the risk there is for them.to be damaged by sheetrock screws
@tealkerberus7487 ай бұрын
My next house will have the installation walls, but with battens placed vertically on the studs so the cables and pipes can run up the wall half way between two battens. In Australia everyone expects these services to run vertically, and the safest option is to put them where people expect them to be. Then it shouldn't be a problem to screw the plasterboard to the battens.
@stevenpopelka8494 Жыл бұрын
From Wisconsin (U.S.A.) - interesting seeing the use of the "hammer band" vs the dubble top plate- where I live in Wisconsin we have a 40lbs per square foot snow load. We typically frame 2x6 walls 16" o/c with a dubble top plate- out trusses or rafters don't have to line up with the up with the studs, but it is generally considered the best practice -
@honumoorea873 Жыл бұрын
I'm in France and did something pretty similar but used compressed (by hand) straw + clay as insulation, it replace osb sheets as it hardened when drying. I used vapor barrier on the inside and rain sheet on the outside.
@deepsudeep Жыл бұрын
What's a rain sheet?
@pkuula Жыл бұрын
This was nice video. Installation walls is common practice in Finland too.
@brandons9398 Жыл бұрын
Very interesting video. I like how you build. Stronger than here in the US.
@evanking632910 ай бұрын
Really am enjoying your serie on how you build your houses… 👍
@joakimdahlstrom2532 Жыл бұрын
It sertainly look that we tend to be specifically keen on the isolation part in scandinavia. comming is to have 45+220, the norther you get the 45+220+45:ier you go :)
@joakimdahlstrom2532 Жыл бұрын
A huge plus side is, 45+220 windows looks so great! No extra "fönsterbläck" (google translate it from swedish) needed. :) Blinders do actually do their work and wases fits without interfearing with the inner space.
@gordonclark7632 Жыл бұрын
This is very interesting and as I watched your earlier one I am amazed at how many people imputed their methods relating to their countries or areas requirements. In Australia although noy a builder, I know that we don't put OSB o the wall and then plaster board over it. The plaster is fixed straight to the studs. Most common roofing material is concrete tiles (cheaper) and they are placed on purlins nailed to the trusses. Nails are the usual fixings for the timber framing.
@ampex189 Жыл бұрын
Cool, thanks for sharing! It's really interesting to see how we all do things a bit different.
@sdfjsdjfghssfgdsgvfs Жыл бұрын
Croatia experience From the initial idea to getting a building permit it takes a minimum of 3 months and while you can make your own building plans to apply for a building permit you need to have an architect, a civil engineer, electrical engineer and a mechanical engineer, all of who have to be government certified to make building plans for your house. Even if it's a small residential house. There are some exceptions but that's mostly for tiny stuff like a woodshed etc. Pretty much every house here has concrete foundation in one of two ways: a concrete slab about 30cm (12 inches) or thicker depending if there is a 2nd story or not. The other way is to have a concrete slab 12 to 15cm thick on strip footings 40 to 50cm wide and 50 to 80cm tall. The 2nd one is used when the ground isn't level but the slab is preferred since it's simpler to make. I draw plans for wooden prefabricated houses, the company standards are 62,5cm C/C on the walls. This is because plasterboard is 125cm wide. For floors we do 35cm C/C because that fits well into 251cm wide floor elements which is how long an OSB board is. Btw, our floors are 6/22cm on 35cm C/C which is quite a bit denser than what you appear to do.
@TheJonasLinde Жыл бұрын
Really interesting follow up of the last video! I like the concept and look forward to future comparisons. It’s very interesting that the installation wall seems to be fairly unique to Sweden. Matt Risinger should introduce it on his channel 😊
@kgsalvage6306 Жыл бұрын
I live in a small town in Pa. in the US. Then was building for 30 years+. I built a commercial building in our small town and I actually did the drawings and the architect would come and look at the building progress and make the final drawings as I built it. Looking back, I don't know how we got away with that. I'm retired now. I was a general contractor and did the building, electrical, and plumbing. I only would sub out the HVAC.
@peteasmr2952 Жыл бұрын
I always liked the idea of building my own house. I now know what kind of house I want to build. And what I need to do to make that happen.
@hakkis1098 Жыл бұрын
The function of the vapor barrier is also to make the house airtight. An airtight house leaks less heat and has a lower risk of moisture damage. Ps we make the outerwalls the same way in Finland. (except we put two boards across to ensure ventilation of the facadeboards)
@riotgear6891 Жыл бұрын
Please show more electrical comparison, or more on Scandinavian electrical installation.
@hanseich Жыл бұрын
Your way of building the house is far superior than almost everything on the North America. Especially that you use vapour open material on the outside of your frame, and vapour closed (with OSB or vapour barrier) on the inside should be done in at least 50% of the North American continent. Somehow it went off all in the wrong direction with all these vapour right materials on the market here. (I’m speaking for heating dominated climate.) Thnkas for this great video. Very interesting.
@efeber2006 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this beautiful video. I lived in Sweden for one year so I had a chance to observe the wood houses and really appreciate the carpentry skills of them. As I am a carpenter and structural engineer in Turkey; I can mention we don't have that wood house culture anymore so I am trying to bring the wood house culture and building codes to my country. Also, I am working as a freelance structural engineer who focuses on wood structures, I have had a chance to work with many clients from different countries, therefore, your video makes me understand all the building wood houses differences easily. I am looking forward to watching your new videos
@bakaariiim Жыл бұрын
Adam Tek başına nasıl daha mükemmel yaparım diye çalışıyor, paylaşıyor. Canım Ülkemde YÜZ BİNLER ölürken milyonlar mağdur oluyor. Coğrafya kader değil, akıllı olmak şart. S.A. (Sağlık Aşk)
@64maxpower Жыл бұрын
I don't care what procedures and methods you use. Anyone that sets trusses solo get my respect
@tealkerberus7487 ай бұрын
I definitely prefer my good galvanised iron roof! My current house had the double top plate as per the truss manufacturer's specifications. It does the job, but next time I'm copying your hammerband. A basic understanding of timber framing says that's going to have greater structural strength than the same piece of timber on its flat. I hear your point about the ply flooring out in the rain. It's not really a concern in most parts of Australia where dry weather will generally be back soon enough after every rain, but you're in a very different climate. I like how the ply gives us a safer work surface, and it's easier to make sure the undersides of the wall frames are properly air-sealed to the ply to stop draughts and insects. You do need longer screws to go through the ply and still penetrate the same distance into the framing timber underneath, but it's worth it. We're working to not use vapour barriers in our walls here in southern Australia. In summer, the air outside is hotter than the air inside, and in winter, the air inside is warmer than the air outside. There is no place in a wall cavity that you can put a vapour barrier that won't create condensation and mould problems at some time of year! So we're working to block actual air movement as per the blower door test, but keep everything vapour permeable so moisture can escape wherever it wants to and hopefully not damage anything on its way. It's still a new science, so it will be interesting to watch how different countries resolve these challenges in years to come. I wouldn't want to hang bookshelves or cupboards on a wall with the screws only going into particlemuck or plywood. When there's no wood product behind the plasterboard, it's a lot easier to find the studs, and secure these sorts of heavy objects properly with screws into the middles of the studs. Anywhere I've added things like that to my house, if you take a shelf down you'll find a little row of patched-up pinholes in the plaster where I've tapped a very small nail through to locate the edges of the studs to make sure I'm driving screws into the middle of the timber. It's extremely accurate, doesn't take long, and the holes are covered by whatever I'm attaching to the wall anyway.
@HandymanBe Жыл бұрын
It's interesting. A good way to explain all this. Regulations all over the world are difrent. Sheet materials also. In europe diferent countries have diferent regulation about the wood structure. In Romania we make it with 15/ 5 cm wood structure... i'm watching this build and it-s interesant for me. Educational. Good work!
@davetooes6179 Жыл бұрын
I built my first house on the Central Coast of NSW, Australia. Halfway between Sydney and Newcastle. It was built in the early 70's My block was situated over a long wall coal mine extraction site It mine was at a depth of over 300 metres. It requires that any foundation or slab meet the requirements of the Mine Subsidence Board to stay together if the ground subsides. If you don't meet their requirements then any structural damage done due to subsidence will not have its rectification paid for by the Mine Subsidence Board t. In reality that meant thicker concrete and thicker rebars. It was calculated it cost nearly double what a normal slab would have been on my type of soil. This extra cost was paid by the builder/owner NOT the coal mine. The rest of the cottage was a standard frame house. With lightweight outer walls and gyprock inner. With a tin roof.
@Subgunman Жыл бұрын
As an architect I personally hate the use of OSB especially in the sub layer sheathing of roofing materials. Over time it will dip between trusses and is really visible as the home ages. I prefer CD grade 5/8 inch plywood. Followed by 40 pound asphalt paper under the final roofing material. I am curious as why you used concrete block for the foundation walls instead of using ICF concrete forms and steel reinforced concrete. The forms are made of rigid foam which will add a vapor and insulating barrier to the foundation. The use of osb is interesting when used behind the drywall. It’s great when it comes time to hang shelving and artwork on the walls. I am and have always been in favor of a vapor barrier inside the wall over insulation. A layer of Tyvek vapor barrier over the exterior sheathing helps vent out moisture vapor while preventing the ingress of actual water from any flaw or defect in the final exterior covering of the home. Running electrics in conduit is also a good idea. I run separate conduits for electrical and low voltage controls / cat6 cabling and satellite. Most every room in my home has runs in two different locations for TV / satellite and telephone / internet wiring. As internet wiring becomes more sophisticated I can pull out the copper cat 6 and replace with fiber optic multi mode cables. The bad part of the conduit used in this south eastern country in Europe is that it is a plastic flex. If there should be a catastrophic event inside the conduit it will be next to impossible to pull out the wires due to insulation melting to the plastic conduit. As for pre wiring before installing drywall inside, the electric boxes here are designed to be installed after the fact. In the USA our boxes are made with a nailing tab or with nail holders and nails on the top and bottom sides of the boxes. This allows one to pre position and wire all electrical rough in’s for the first electrical inspection. Now here in the part of the EU, try feeding the conduit in and out of the electrical box with wires in it with a box that is designed to be fitted after drywall is installed. It DOES NOT WORK! Can you possibly give me more information how electrical rough in’s are done in your region or a reference to a video? I think you for the valuable information you have provided!
@mindsparx1 Жыл бұрын
Hi and thank you for all the information. I have a video with some of the wiring but not a detailed one. Here is a video of the boxes i use. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHvYaIZpbqZmq6s
@OvertravelX Жыл бұрын
I really enjoyed this! The world should talk and share more.
@JCBerner Жыл бұрын
You are doing a great job - both building, as well as producing these great videos 👋👋👋
@shgrs366410 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video. In Russia, there are no inspections of private homes like in Scandinavia or the USA, and this is very bad. People carry out inspections of their homes themselves. Therefore, such videos are very useful. I want to express my idea about floor insulation. When warming the floor, you can insert a piece of insulation vertically under the wall, then you will not have gaps between the floor insulation and the bottom of the wall. Even a small gap of 5 mm will steal your heat and then the floor along the wall will be cool.
@zachwak Жыл бұрын
Not sure if your plastic vapor barrier is different but in the US we use a 6mm or 12mm plastic vapor barrier in the crawlspace and it does not prevent radon gas. We sometimes install radon mitigation systems that are underneath the vapor barrier, it is usually 2in perforated PVC pipe (spaced anywhere from 16 to 60 inches apart) in the gravel that vents to the outside. It is not super common, but there is growing awareness about radon, especially in the sandy soils of the southern US.
@archbaas Жыл бұрын
mil, not mm
@gregben Жыл бұрын
@@archbaas Yes, 1 mil = 0.001" (one thousandth of an inch), and 1 mm is approximately 40 mils.
@steveporritt1550Ай бұрын
We Brits usually build our houses of brick or concrete block (for fire protection) but timber framing off site in a factory is becoming more common. Even with a main downstairs internal wall of concrete block, the upper internal walls are usually plaster board, double faced with a hollow lattice in between, which you can run cables through. I'm not an electrician but I believe all cables to sockets or switches, must run vertically, you can't take shortcuts across the wall. This to reduce the likely hood of someone putting a nail through the wiring, also you have to be a qualified electrician to sign off on the wiring, so most wiring is contracted out. Similarly only registered technicians can do any work on gas fittings or pipes. Plumbing is currently a DIY option but few people will attempt it. Thanks for the great series, I have always wanted to build my own house but I will have to be content to one day to have one built one to my specifications (currency permitting), my back or knees couldn't take the strain anymore.
@jimpie231 Жыл бұрын
The ranch home I’m living in (suburb of Chicago, Illinois, USA) was built 20 years ago. I’m the original owner in a tract subdivision. It has a full basement and a double brick fire place, one in the basement and one in the family room on the first floor. The home is 53’ x 38’, 2240sqft., not counting the attached 3 car garage (700sqft). It has three steel I beams and 6 metal posts in the basement supporting the main floor. The floor was built first, with tongue and grooved plywood then the factory built walls were erected in one day and various factory built trusses were also erected the next day. Then the 5/8” plywood covered the roof then shingles. The foundation was started at the end of March in 2003 and we got the keys and were able to move in at the end of May in 2003. The middle of the home has a 14’ vaulted ceiling and the whole home has 9’ ceilings thru-out! It has 2 full baths on the main level and one in the basement. There is no plumbing in an outside wall. The home has many built-in closets. It was built with metal conduit for the solid electric lines. I have had no problems with the home since it was built. This is not a custom home, but a tract home.
@positivelyacademical1519 Жыл бұрын
The only potential disadvantage I can think of with using installation walls is if it’s used alongside flammable insulation. Would be easy for fire to spread within the gap behind the OSB/plasterboard.
@tishomingo4524 Жыл бұрын
I agree with you but the idea has advantages with an insulator like rock-wool. Live in the mountains of US where foam is pushed.
@makatanau2878 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for this comparison and knowledge!
@kwissiekwissie29 күн бұрын
At 22:55 The comment is not correct (at least for the Netherlands) It is correct that 230v means less current... But we have solid wires and it is still manditory to lead them thru plastic pipes. So, like you pointed out, the wires can be replaced if nesessery... (And it is possible to pull 5 solid wires thru a pipe...)
@hyvemynd6052 ай бұрын
woah the hammer band is brilliant holy shit. Also connecting walls directly to joists rather than a subfloor...you are clinically insane if you think thats worse than subfloor lol. Thanks for doing this man. Sorry about your house burning.
@tomnietz4158 Жыл бұрын
Love your content. Wish you could take apart a California home built after 1950. Eight foot ceilings, one level and all the construction lumber could come from one or two Douglas Fir trees. Today we have earthquake standards so figure 2 to 3 times the lumber, plus earthquake strong ties and nailing clips. I did a recent California remodel and the rough metal Simpson fasteners were 1/3 the cost of rough lumber.
@465maltbie Жыл бұрын
Using the board at the top instead of a header is a better idea for insulating. Headers on exterior walls often have no insulation. Charles
@hguldmann Жыл бұрын
no matter what, I would prefer to have a Scandinavian-built house..
@My_HandleIs_ Жыл бұрын
The modern Scandinavian houses are extremely efficient and uses heat pump to extract energy from the ventilated air. In Northern parts, a house only uses 6-8 MWh/year for heating! Not sure if the design works well in very hot climates, with AC running many months per year. Walls are built to be warmer on the inside…
@robertr999 Жыл бұрын
Interesting that you say 6-8MWh that sounds a lot to me. Do you mean electricity that is used by the Heatpump or what the Heatpump produces ? We live in a concrete/brick house and we use for heating, hot water and cooling in the summer about 2,4MWh/y of electricity with the Heatpump. Approximately 10,7W/m2 per year. This is with a separate balanced ventilation system with heat recovery. Heatpump is air to water. We live in the Netherlands
@jubmelahtes Жыл бұрын
@@robertr999 remember that it get colder and way darker the further north you go. Also wooden houses are usually better insulated than bricks in our climate
@robertr999 Жыл бұрын
@@jubmelahtes thnx for your reply. Yes further up north it’s coulder then here. But can you tell me if your 6-8MWh is pure electric of is it the thermal output of the heatpump? Is there a ..kWh/year per m2? for your area? Thank you in advance.
@MrBlacksight Жыл бұрын
Swedish houses doesn't blow away during hurricane season which is 👍
@kingpinapproves7921 Жыл бұрын
In Brazil we have many construction methods, but the most common is with ceramic brick in the north of the country, center and south. Remember, in Brazil the north is very hot with temperatures around 28 to 42°C all year round, in the south we have strange temperatures in summer an average of 30 to 38°C and in winter an average of 14°C, but in winter peak negative temperatures around -5 no house here is prepared for that. In the south, wooden houses are more common, in the north they do not exist, wood in the south is cheaper and most of the wood that other countries use are from Brazil pine or spruce grow ridiculously fast here. I never seen bricks like ours in construction videos. The way the window and door reinforcements are made with a line of brick without core making it possible to place iron bars and cement, it has concrete pillars and stringers too, the brick Ceramic only serves as a closure but also as a structure I don't know how to explain it. We also use structural cement blocks to build houses, in some places it's cheaper, and in addition to the pillars and stringers, hollow blocks are also used to reinforce the gaps. Foundation is one thing hard to explain, Brazil is a very big country, here you have all types of soil, we just don't have frozen soil. The method used to build wooden houses here I find it very strange, it doesn't seem to have any structure but there is a lot of old houses, 60 to 120 years old built like this. They exist mostly in the south of the country, it is very rare to see a wooden house in the north, there is a lot of German and Polish influence in the south of the country, but the way houses are made nowadays I never seen it in another country. We also use conduits here it's mandatory and from the last regulatory standard we only use flexible cables, our electrical standards are very complex aiming at maximum safety, but nobody follows that's why there are so many electrical accidents here. A curiosity here we only use an electric shower due to safety and low maintenance, it is safer than a gas shower. The only reported accidents are in very old houses or buildings with metallic pipes, with precarious electrical installation and metallic showers. The plumbing here is pvc now, I believe it is mandatory because I have never seen new metallic installation in houses, only in specific industries for high pressure. The showers also have a plastic core to avoid accidents when a resistance bursts, the first ones didn't have it, that's why the accidents. The water conducts electricity very poorly, accidents only happened because the resistance of the shower opened against the metallic body of the shower, the shower energized the copper pipes, which energized the water valve, the water cooled down, you turn off the shower and a disaster it happens.
@colinstace1758 Жыл бұрын
In Australia, most houses have cavity walls with timber frames on the inside with brick exterior walls. No vapor barrier and no shingle rooves.
@rawwu Жыл бұрын
Walls ate pretty much the same in Finland, but usually only plasterb inside side without osb or similar. Floor is insulated usually with white eps, glasswool goes on the walls. Most of the roofs are metal. Wood under metal sheets is not fully, like every 35cm there is a example 32x100mm size wood on top of trusses.
@marybee1594 Жыл бұрын
If You have money only Ytong, We use hollow blocks on Balcan, but Ytong is better, and Ytong white seilings, over that We add at least 8cm stiropore insulation, Ytong doesen't require insulation, it's fireproof, earthquake proof, soundproof, and breaths so excess humidity and wapor don't make problem.
@davidsmith6001 Жыл бұрын
I like the hammarband you are using. I can see it working very nicely with what we build. In the usa state by state use a code of the minimum you have to use when you build. There is nothing stopping one over building it unless you have a a*hole inspector. I like many others believe over built is well built. Meaning make it the best it can be. Also with the plywood sheeting on the floor. We are suppose to make sure the screws go into the framing and not just the plywood as it holds nothing. Your trusses look plenty strong enough to me and that is speaking from dealing with some snow loads. OSB is something so many people use because its cheaper but I will refuse to use it until the day I die. There is nothing wrong with it if others want to use it but its just not for me. The plastic you use under the floor on the ground was the first I had heard of plastic that is made to last. Everyone I saw over these years uses just white or black 6 mill plastic. I don't know if there is a difference but its something I will learn more about. I like how you did the insulation personally. I would go that route on my next build.... I remember the old timers use to use togue and grove board on the root building and always though it was very smart choice. I do love good construction screws that are made to bend like nails. I would rather use screws over nails 10 to 1. The vapor barrier is a must period. I remember when the old timers also use wood or togue and groove on a 45 degree angle on all sides made so as the wind blew and the house racked it would pull in on itself and add strength. Here you can get wire inside of fileable conduit already to install. It costs a little more but not enough to not use it. Your pipe in pipe I thought about a long time ago as a smart choice and glad to see it being used for the same reasons I was thinking. I just love everything your doing. Keep it up.
@pd1jdw630 Жыл бұрын
Uhm 🤔 here in the Netherlands we have brick ore nowadays mostly concrete houses. However in the conduit for electrical wires we use plastic piping. To wich solid copper wires are pulled through. We have 240V here and it all gets calculated to 16amps. I’m not an electrician however. But most houses I’ve seen this Yellow plastic piping with solid copper wire are from at least 20 years and older. So I’m unsure about new construction. Anyway. Thanks for the video. It clears up so many questions I had. 👌🏻
@artofwebdesign8 ай бұрын
Ik kom ook uit Nederland en ik ga een grote recreatiewoning bouwen. Ik ben wel geïnspireerd op houtskelet, begrijp niet waarom we dat weinig doen in Nederland. De levensduur schijnt hetzelfde te zijn, mits goed gebouwd.
@casondave Жыл бұрын
THIS !! Great video and thanks tons for covering the differences, I framed houses for a while 40 years ago and enjoy watching them, The first video showing the foundation was crazy, out west we have no bedrock so seeing big stones in the crawl space was strange. Your hammer-band was also crazy but now that you've explained it so that , plus the and that installation wall is pure genius !! It's no wonder you guys build such great homes !! It IS crazy to me still seeing no real support in the from of OSB or plywood on the exterior wall, just that board but you make up for it on the inside where ALL the walls can carry loads ! We do it the way we do it in W. Canada I think first and foremost for one thing - profits and just how cheap can we go !! Nice to see your govt is just as nosy and useless as ours - thank god they care so much about us, huh?! (grin)
@haphazard1342 Жыл бұрын
Regarding framing the roof before siding: the "triangles on top of the squares" are still subject to shear in the square. The roof does not provide shear strength to the walls. But this is fine. There are two reasons: first, for the same reason you have less need for shear protection in your walls to begin with. You do not have earthquake or tornado or hurricane winds. Second, you have adequate temporary shear strength from the wall-braces. Putting the roof on first makes sense as a priority for rain protection, and doesn't seem like a problem to me. The building is not occupied so the risk to life is very small if there is a high wind event. In the US West Coast with risk of earthquake, this is probably not a risk I would take. We have a longer, less wet summer and can afford to take the time to put sheathing on the walls before lifting the roof trusses. It is not a long delay, and the risk of injury or damage to surrounding buildings (as well as the cost/delay of rebuilding) is higher. Catastrophic earthquake is rare, but danger is not hard to mitigate in this scenario.
@notmyrealname8064 Жыл бұрын
I think you are missing the shear strength of the hammerband. With the top plate and the hammerband together, you make it very difficult to shear anything near the roofline. With a double topplate design only the nails (or screws) holding the top plate and bottom plate tight to eachother provide any shear strength at all, while the hammerband provides substantial shear prevention before anything else is attached. Remember . that most earthquakes can be handled easily by flexible construction, as well as by very solid construction - so the studs would likely absorb most of the vibration with little issue. I suspect the more interesting discussion would be in multi-story construction, because that extra 10 feet off grade makes a big difference.
@oditeomnes Жыл бұрын
Companies in Norway make walls and framing in a factory/workshop, so the prosess is something like this: 1. A few weeks of terraforming and laying foundation. 2. One sunny day to erect all walls and roof. 3. Connect electricity and plumbing, time used varies. There is a company here that installs wiring into the walls at the factory, you just need to connect the wall module wires into the fuse box. We take our shitty weather very seriously.
@marioschlebe9913 Жыл бұрын
Sehr interessant und inspirierend. Es sind einige Details anders als ich es in Deutschland gelernt habe und die ich auch besser finde, aber es gibt auch einige Details bei dir, die ich besser finde und sicher bei meinen zukünftigen Projekt, ein Bungalow und eine größere Werkstatt, übernehmen werde.
@IvanJakesevic Жыл бұрын
Så imponerad av dig och ditt bygge!
@NSall-ku8nk Жыл бұрын
Kanonbra video! Riktigt kul bygge att följa! 👍
@johnnyb8629 Жыл бұрын
IN the US, its a combination of both depending on where exactly you live. I grew up and lived my whole life in Chicago and Chicago has some of the most building codes in the country. In the 6 counties that make up Chicago land you cannot use Romex or jacketed cable in the walls it must be in EMT or IMT. Once you drive outside of the 6 county region you can wire the house with Romex. Personally I would never wire my house in Romex for the exact reason you mentioned, very unrepairable. You can pull solid wire in EMT as well and that's very common to pull 12 gauge solid circuits in residential construction. I think British wiring is crazy, cementing cable in the walls just under the surface? When it comes to plumbing we use PVC for drain and in the 6 country region of Chicago it must be copper pipe, only recently have we started to adopt PEX or plastic pipe for water supply, its not allowed everywhere just yet. We are just now getting to use pro press fittings on copper pipe as well, not widely adopted just yet so we still must sweat the pipe together. My question to you is, how does the Trades work in your building process? Can you do everything or must certain things be done by the respective Tradesperson? I personally would do everything myself if given the chance but pulling permits makes that impossible or very difficult. I would have to find a licensed plumber and electrician to pull my permits and then pay them to come back and inspect my work before the city inspector came. Its a bit of a scam here giving the trades a monopoly as well as the city inspectors getting in bed with the unions and playing dirty.
@gonesideways6621 Жыл бұрын
My house was built with tongue and groove on floor and roof 46 years strong and no problems.
@dapsychopomp244 Жыл бұрын
In AU - hammerband would provide more rigidity and help stop racking forces and buckling end condition.. also act as a top batten to attach coverings. Double Top plate are a lazy way of doing this with some ply sheets on the walls in the corners (shear panel) of diagonal straps. Its common to use 70x35mm or 90x45mm timber for walls with Noggins for similar reasons. Nails are ductile and can accommodate a lot of movement before snapping (shearing & other long term cyclic forces like wind load, thermal expansion etc) whereas a screw is stronger in longitudinal tension as its design to provide clamping forces but snaps easier (brittle) when bent (lateral force) - its deliberate and material specific.
@kennethhudson5513 Жыл бұрын
in south Texas (Houston) we dont have basements or crawlspaces.. Flat slab with approx. 12inch footer around perimeter with a central beam if needed 4 inch slab is fairly standard
@aaronvanhoucke2065 Жыл бұрын
very interisting. i'm from Belgium and we also use a vapor barier on the inside of new or renovated houses. But i am not a fan of using them. We somtimes use reed mats and a clay or lime plaster insted. this is a way more breathable wall and this way might not need a ventalation system in your house. Also, i personly like to use woodfiber insulation or other natrural insulation. this has more thermal mass to keep the house cool in summer and is way nicer to work with compared to rock or glass wool.
@artofwebdesign8 ай бұрын
Hello, I come from the Netherlands. The use of plastic in the wall for damp is also a pain in the ass for me. I want to use 'houtwolcement platen afgewerkt met leem' [wood fibre cement panels with loam/clay] but I don't know if that is a good option concerning the damp.
@eddieolsson5449 Жыл бұрын
Regarding vapour barrier. If the house is in a climate like the Scandinavian and may be left unheated for longer periods and you have a vapor barrier on the inside, there's a risk of water damage as condensation ends up on the wrong side of the barrier during spring, when it's warmer outside than inside.
@mattluongo7763 Жыл бұрын
I could be wrong because I'm not from there but I believe in The city of Chicago all electrical wires of any kind are run in conduits. And that might have something to do with the great fire? Everywhere else in America they go by the NEC
@troyhickey4300 Жыл бұрын
Screws are common in the US but framing nail guns are more time effective on none structural walls.
@eliinthewolverinestate6729 Жыл бұрын
You were right. It just every state has different codes. I do a trench for a small foundation, but do it like yours too. It depends on the soil and how far north I am. We have shear walls instead of hammer band. Which gets a strap sometimes and sometimes a beam. Same idea. Commercial buildings or multi family buildings get fire blocks. I like mineral wool insulation. I have seen builders add furring strips to the roof like you do walls. On my build it will be D.C. electric in conduit. Which was recent code change. Mainly allowing smoke detectors from motorhomes and boats to be used with D.C. D.C. electric because of earthship type greenhouse and off grid. Do you use rebar in your concrete block walls or have to grout them every 4 feet solid where rebar is? Is fiberglass or basalt rebar allowed there? Your windows are more energy efficient than ours here too. Or at least Sweden's are. We also now put thermal breaks in around windows now. What about septic too? I ask because your on solid rock. We usually bury septic tanks with leech field here.
@mindsparx1 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for all the info, I have a 3 cubic septic tank buried 2 meter down in a place where I could do that. Yes i use rebar every row of blocks on the sides where i have pressure from the ground. fiberglass or basalt rebar is new to me, im not sure about that.
@wyohman00 Жыл бұрын
There's also a difference between Europe and the US that you haven't mentioned, the costs of labor v. the cost of materials. Overall, the US has gotten the cost of most materials down to the commodity level. This is not doable for labor. Many times we may pay a bit more for material due to the massive labor savings. Running conduits in walls would increase the labor cost dramatically. It also sounds to be like you change things in your house more often. We rarely change wiring or pipes.
@mindsparx1 Жыл бұрын
Yes, i will cover that in the next part, i have asked for prices in the comment section and I'm starting to get a grip of prices around the world.