MINI Cooper - Replace Brakes Front & Rear - Gen 1 R50 R52 R53

Mechanics-eye-view - replace front & rear brake pads & rotors (disks) on a first generationMINI Cooper. Save money and have fun by working on your own MINI Cooper!
This video applies to ALL MINI Coopers including Countryman but the bolt sizes and wear sensor wiring harness locations may vary. Procedure is exactly as shown in this video for all 2002-2006 Coopers and Cooper S hardtops and 2004-2008 Cabriolets.
Buy the rear caliper tool:
amzn.to/2SvHOUp
If you don't have air tools, get one of these, a "poor man's impact tool"
amzn.to/1UHsqLS
Buy CRC disk brake quiet:
amzn.to/1nhIlCM
Buy brake parts lubricant:
amzn.to/ZV6Mfc
Buy OEM equivalent front pads, rotors & sensor wire:
amzn.to/1wkdyol
Buy OEM equivalent rear pads, rotors & sensor wire:
amzn.to/1vhV2A7
Buy brake fluid:
amzn.to/ZzM0AN
"DIY MINI Cooper repair videos provided for reference/entertainment purposes only. Only work on your car if you have the right tools and are comfortable doing so. If in doubt, consult a professional. Mod MINI is not responsible for any 'mistakes' or 'incidents' arising out of your working on your own vehicle. Have fun and stay safe!" Follow #ModMINI on Twitter to get notified of new video uploads! / modminiyoutube Thanks for watching!
Want to show your support for MOD Mini? Check out my virtual tip jar at www.fundly.com/... and shop for parts or tools using the Amazon links! Click here for Mod MINI Amazon Registry!
amzn.com/w/2PKR... #modmini #modminiKZbin

[@marginalsam]

Man I wish this guy was my friend. He knows how to fix every single problem my R53 has ever had and will ever have.

[@ModMINI]

My friends will gladly unfriend me... I'm sure they are sick of me talking about MINIs all the time. Oh wait, they are all MINI people. Never mind

[@vandalest]

I was looking for the rear caliper tool and tried to zoom in on images at e-commerce shops to make sure the kit has Z tool. Being hard to find it, I finally figured out that the the tool also goes by the letter N 🤣 Great videos thanks for making them now almost 10 years ago! 😁

[@davidhadden7677]

Thanks so very much! I replaced all 4 rotors and pads by myself solely based on your video. I really appreciate guys like you. You're saving us a lot of money! Thanks again!

[@wuzaracer]

Thank you very much. 5 years ago you made this video and in 2019 it is helping people. I hit the subscribe button. You are my go to channel for my "new to me" R53.

[@dirkklapzeiker4891]

Yes same! This guy is amazing

[@haifajo]

Hey man, what's the best brand to buy when it comes to air tool to remove stubborn nuts? i have dewalt 18v rechargeable but wouldnt budge.

[@sherryminicoopersr5341]

update... once again I'm proof that your videos can help anyone. I was able to change my rear brakes myself by watching your videos! Keep the videos coming....

[@thorn67]

i have to say mad mini is on top when it comes to these helpful vids.my wife just got a mini R53 s 05 recentley,and needs a brake job.i do all work on our cars,but a mini is new to me.your detail to what to do and tools to use are a1.i want to give u thumps up on making these vids.not only awesome but supper helpful..many vids out there but yours surpasses them all..thank u so much,you go as far as where to buy the tools..your my online mechanic.thx again..thumbs up

[@ModMINI]

THORN Thanks for the vote of confidence.

[@cruizn420]

great video.. my warning light for the brake pads came on today.. and I knew if I typed "how to change brakes on an 06 mini cooper s" that your videos would mostly likely be one of the first to pop up. good stuff.

[@organizedchaos8143]

This is the best video demonstrating the use of the rear brake compression tool. Direct and straight to the point. Good job! Thanks a lot.

[@PeterMillikin]

This has made me decide I don't have to correct tools and wish you could do it for me. I bet even a garage don't carry out all the steps you did. I bet you never have any come backs to your work and it is rare to see someone work with such good standards. Thanks for making the video it has at least saved me damaging my car by leaving to an expert!

[@melissaburke8338]

Not to be all mushy, but my best friend and Dad died. Im still pissed about that. Your videos are the first Ive seen that I enjoy. Thank you for being a virtual buddy in mechanics, I can now confidently carry on.(rewind isnt exactly the same as calling my dad with greasy fingers to say what did you say? Or this isnt working!, but its really good) Thanks for taking the time to make the videos.

[@MrJeanchy]

Great video. Complete information including mentioning the springs on the inner rear pads which fix the pads to the piston. On my Mini the garage mechanic didn't do this, and the right inner pad moved outwards about 5mm what caused the brake heating up and a squeaking noise. When I made a complaint they just changed the bushing bolts which was no improvement. I discovered the mess when i had a look at the brakes after watching your video. Thanks for this useful manual.

[@ModMINI]

Ugh. I hope they replaced the parts and did the work over properly.

[@aggyman]

I did this job over the weekend after using your video for reference! No experience whatsoever and the job has turned out great! Many thanks for your content!

[@kenwright1632]

I don't know why you take the time to make all these videos but Man am I GLAD YOU DO. your passion for R53 is uncanny THANKS SO MUCH . 1ST CLASS

[@jnbearden]

One of the better videos I've seen, both information and production value. Thanks! Especially appreciated seeing the challenge of removing the rotor retention screw, which was my biggest frustration. To address one question, yes, a screwdriver-type impact driver will work although an air impact tool is better. The one thing not addressed was resetting the warning indicator on the dash if the wear sensor has triggered. But that's covered in other online postings.

[@ModMINI]

Chip Bearden Glad the video was helpful. The wear sensor indicator will reset itself after a couple of key cycles (turning the car off and on a few times)

[@dannykarnage]

Love your videos. I have a 2003 MINI Cooper (non-S) that I bought last summer. It has, unfortunately, been a series of almost constant problems, but I've been able to do most of the repairs myself, largely because I've found How-To's of yours. I just did the brakes, front and back, this weekend and followed this video almost to the T. Worked great. I had seized set screws on all four rotors. I've never had nuts/bolts that I haven't been able to unseize using heat and an emergency candle, but didn't work on these, so I did finally have to break down and buy a pneumatic impact. But with that they all four popped right off. Only other "problem" I had was that the pads I got for the rear didn't have the notch in them for the pad wear sensor, so I had to take them back and get a different set from another supplier. But otherwise it was smooth sailing. Thanks a ton for your videos!

[@ModMINI]

dannykarnage Thanks for watching and good to hear. Impact tools really solve a lot of problems. They are an excellent investment. You don't need anything fancy.

[@Keyguitar47]

Thanks for the great video. I had to replace 2 wheel hub bearings, left front and left rear ( wife hit a pot hole), so I did the brakes while the Mini was off the ground. Your tips sped the process up. I used the recommended rotors, they work great. I finally broke down down and bought the rear caliper tool.........

[@stevenkingston953]

My bad please accept my apologies for the typo. That's exactly what it is 02 Mini Cooper S. Thanks Mod mini and I think all of your videos are fantastic and of great use. I can see me watching many more and many times :-)

[@maurizio-tech]

Mate, your videos are great! I've just purchased a used Mini Cooper S 2002 and doing some minor work on it. Using your videos as step by step guides. Well done and thanks! Ciao Maurizio

[@phillyhouse]

This video is awesome. Beware - we ordered the parts for the front and rear brakes per the links above. The rear set is fine, but the front set came with the wrong rotors - there were the correct size and width, but the fifth hole for the retainer nut is on the opposite side of the bolt hop from where it should be. The rotors therefore cannot be secured to the hub. This is NOT the fault of ModMINI, but the Amazon supplier. Trying to decide if I want to get correct rotors or just use a threaded rod to hand the rotor on until I get the wheel lugs started... Thanks ModMINI for a great video!

[@ModMINI]

+phillyhouse You don't really need the bolt to hold the rotor to the hub. The lug bolts and wheel will hold it just fine. (My track brakes have no hole at all and I drive them around at 130mph with no issues)

[@edpochinski3767]

+Mod MINI - I just got my brakes and never saw this but one was actually label drivers side front, other passenger side maybe this was for the bolt hole lining up correctly.....just a thought..AWESOME videos I just bought a MINI S 2003 John Cooper works limited edition and love it so far...

[@xstorm_8_shadowx]

Started my brakes (rotors, pads and braided lines) tonight, thanks for all the videos you do for everyone it’s greatly appreciated ....

[@sosiccbmw]

excellent video, thanks Mod, hey wanted to let everyone know, I had alot of trouble getting the caliper tool to "start" turning the caliper, so much so that I was about to give up, then realized the adapter that fits the minis caliper can be used on a socket adapter then placed in my impact drill(20v DeWalt) that actually worked much better and faster than the caliper tool, just wanted to throw that out there for anyone else having trouble.

[@ModMINI]

+Chris Walters Wow, good tip. My tool doesn't fit a socket. Another tip for anyone who is stuck - make sure parking brake is not engaged!

[@IrishKiltie19]

Thanks so much for posting this video. Really helpful for those of us willing to try these projects but are not expert mechanics. Seeing someone do the work is much better than reading any manual. I especially liked when you mentioned the fastener sizes, torque specs, etc. Saved me a lot of time during the repair process.

[@RobertWilliams-sq6xw]

I'm in the process of doing my brakes now! Your videos are GREAT!!! Thanks for the guidance!

[@C3Stingray]

Very detailed and straight to the point. I have done this before but once I do something I just forget about it. This was a nice refresher course, good job.

[@bernardbarbour]

Your video's are the best. You're putting the dealer out of service, lol. Great for the DIY guy like me. Keep up the good work.

[@jaimimcentire99]

Excellent video - showed me everything I needed to do the brakes, saved me a ton of money. We have a 2006 mini cooper convertible (not an S), and the only thing that was different was the dust boots on the calipers - we didn't need to remove those - they are open on the end. Thanks for making the video!

[@bb4l881]

Great video. Thanks for the upload. I'm just about to change all 4 discs and all the pads on my partner's mini, and you've covered this so comprehensively, I think I could almost do the job with my eyes closed 😆 Thanks again, you've just found a new subscriber to your channel 👍

[@adamross4984]

What a pro! I searched for 2 mini videos and this guy has done both. Thanks!

[@stubby1122]

Remember to replace the Brake fluid reservoir cap prior to pumping the breaks.

[@dnl247365]

who down voted this?! 2 thumbs up Mod Mini, your videos invigorate the do-it-yourselfers of the Mini community. Keep it up!

[@teeess9551]

For full info on the rear brakes, start watching at 8:30 (instead of 10:30 as titled). Great video! Cheers from Oz :)

[@KUTZFRECH]

Thank you and also your videos have given me a lot of confidence to work on my mini myself.. I've done a ton of stuff thanks to your videos! Much appreciated thank you!

[@R1CH130]

Great video. I’m doing the rear disks and pads on my Girlfriends Mini this afternoon. Thankfully, I’ve managed to borrow a piston wind back took off a mate of mine. I have done this job in the past, without the proper tool and it’s possible, but much easier with a proper tool!

[@toddgardner3793]

My man! Great video. Super helpful when replacing my mom's front brakes. Loved the details of size call outs etc.. saved me a trip to the auto parts store for that Torx 50 🤘

[@cwork7716]

Recently purchased an 06 S. Found a receipt for a brake job performed in 2010 at a retail chain brake shop. Rotors, pads ,sensors and labor totaled over $850. US.

[@ModMINI]

Ouch. That would pay for a lot of sweet tools.

[@daviddouglas7950]

Absolute best video for mini brakes. Thanks for the links. Thanks a million for the clear instruction! Dave in the Adirondacks

[@StebrasNotHorses]

Hi Mod, I'd like to add that the rear pistons can be screwed in using some penetrating oil, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and a bit of grunting. Like you said, the first few turns are the hardest.

[@tboy2466]

Might be worth noting the set screw that holds the rotor on slightly protrudes out the back and can be scrubbed with a small wire brush and sprayed with a penetrating lubricant

[@marcusbryant3514]

T H A N K Y O U

[@paulcleven1715]

Enjoy your videos! I found that you don't need the whole contraption to compress the rear calipers. My 2 pin adaptor fits a 3/8 extension. After I remove the rotor, temporarily Remount the caliper. Adaptor extension and wratchet. Easy peasy.

[@ModMINI]

Yes that works but you have to push really hard while turning.

[@paulcleven1715]

I didn't

[@sherryminicoopersr5341]

Good morning. I'm going to change my brakes and calipers this weekend. I will let you know how it goes. Your instructions are pretty straight forward. I figured if I can change my valve cover gasket I can do my brakes.

[@vitaminhead1465]

Thanks for the video, I love working on cars, this helps me keep my mini in good shape:)

[@remickmerry3836]

Excellent video - glad I found it. Will be replacing my rear rotors and pads this week on my 2005 MCS. Picked up an ABN brake caliber tool very similar to yours. Glad I did after seeing the video.

[@FactsMattersUSA]

Great how to video, in addition. Whenever brake pads are changed do not forget to reset the indicator inside the vehicle.

[@ModMINI]

The 2002-2006 will reset itself after 1-2 drive cycles. The 2007 and later MINIs require a reset of the countdown service interval.

[@krishanpatel41]

Mod MINI Hi there! Let me start by saying what a fantastic, educational video this is!.. I am attempting my first rear disc change on my Mini Cooper R50! I've been reading a lot into the procedure and intend to follow your every step, I just have 2 questions! Is there only one rear break pad sensor for the back wheels? Also when the brake pads and discs are changed on the rear, will the handbrake need to be adjusted or left the same? Also does the handbrake cable get touched whilst changing the pads and disc? Your response is highly appreciated! Best Wishes. K

[@ModMINI]

Sensor on one side. Handbrake only needs adjusting if cable stretches. Caliper windback tool deals with handbrake stuff.

[@krishanpatel41]

Mod MINI Thanks for the reply! Hope it goes smoothly! Just one more question that's come to mind, I noticed whilst using the calliper tool, its turned clockwise to rotate the piston back in, is this the same on both sides of the car! Thank you again!

[@ModMINI]

I think I cover that in the video.

[@unorthodoxweldingtrades2336]

Good Christ! I didn’t know you needed a specialty tool to compress it, was cranking on it like crazy with big C clamp and wrapped the handle around the threaded rod. Rented the kit, but None of the pieces would seat. I enlarged the holes on the cylinder with a drill so it would fit the closest one .

[@GarthGoldberg]

Nice video. I would mention that there is a tiny metal spring clip that retains the brake pad sensor. It will inevitably fall on the ground when you remove it from the old pad. You can re-use the sensor if you find and replace that clip.

[@realMaverickBuckley]

Just did this. Thank you so much. A WORD OF ADVICE(that most of you will have done anyway) especially if you live so where where fuel is $9 a gallon like me. Definitely just replace the sensors. They're usually $15-25 the pair. My local motorfactors said I shouldnt replace them yet, many replace them and dont need to. That's fair but my light was only on fir 20 miles before I did the brakes and the light stayed on. So I had to go back and get them then jack the car up, get dirty, and do it again. For the sake of $20 -25 it's not worth it, just do it.

[@ModMINI]

If light does not immediately go off, it's the sensor. A visual inspection will show if it needs replacement or not.

[@Dilltron-vn1pi]

Just in case you run into this same issue. My local auto shops caliper kit wasn’t small enough. I took some needle nose pliers and was able to rotate the caliper. I then, very gently, put a c clamp on the bare caliper and was able to spin it in with just the clamp. I tried it with the pad on and I got bound up every time but the clamp itself worked great. Next time I won’t even bother renting the caliper kit.

[@lksa983a]

I was able to do this job but only after very much of trouble compressing the piston with the caliber tool. Piston was so stuck that first the tool handle bent to a pretzel and then finally the shaft snapped. Luckily the kit had that one adapter which takes 1/4 drive so I was able to use my air impact wrench to get the piston moving. After the few first rotations, just like you said, it got much easier to rotate. So the caliber tool quality was bit of a disappointment but luckily it lasted long enough to get the job done.

[@LoveraLobo]

Seriously thank you for these videos, excellent step by step and insightful. Just got a Brembo rotor/pad kit for my 06 and I'm stoked to throw them on!

[@Husker68135]

Thanks for the great video. Just did the brakes on my daughters mini with no guesswork at all. :)

[@ModMINI]

Husker68135 Guessing when working on brakes is not a good idea, so glad the video helped to eliminate that.

[@everettkirk8368]

Very good thanks.one thing I did with help the rear brake cylinder piston move was,push it in as you turn,goes easier straight away,great vid thanks again..

[@ModMINI]

Yes. The tool I present does the pushing for you.

[@321357w]

As always, concise and informative !

[@JussiKoukku]

Great video, I'm doing this later today on my 2006 R53. I'll let you know how my 18V Makita copes with the retention screw... I've watched tons of you videos and they've helped a lot on my diy adventures, thanks!

[@texan3frisco812]

Great job keep posting you’ve saved me a small fortune👍

[@marshallgoldberg8376]

I’ve used that piston compression tool on other cars, and it’s MUCH easier if you open the bleed valve on the brake caliper. Attach a bleed bottle if you have one.

[@tunaball]

Thanks for the great video. Got into the project today only to find the the two auto parts stores in town (O'Reilly & Nappa) don't have a caliper wind back tool that will fit the MINI, ordered the only you link to from Amazon and it should be here in 2 days.

[@louisjones4841]

Your videos has saved me! Thank you so much!

[@nigelsevier2603]

Excellently presented. Clear & precise. Very informative. I am about to do a complete all-round replacement and you've given me confidence to go ahead. Is it necessary to replace the sensors with new ones?

[@ModMINI]

Hello - no need to replace the sensors if the brake light is not illuminated, but be careful removing the old one - the plastic is brittle.

[@nigelsevier2603]

***** Many thanks.

[@gregorysorce1898]

At about the 15 minute mark you go inside the car and pump the brakes. Do you put the reservoir cap on first? It looked like the hood was closed when you did this so I'm not sure. Nevermimd, another commenter answered my question - he answered yes. Thanks for the great video. Much appreciated.

[@ModMINI]

It doesn't really matter if the cap is on or off if it's not overfilled

[@krpe9611]

All of your videos pertaining to the R53 have been a tremendous help and cost saving. I would personally like to thank you for taking the time to post all of these videos. Second... I recently just replaced the back brakes and rotors on my R53 and I noticed in your video that you didn't have any brake fluid coming out of the bleeder valve when you were compressing the piston back into the rear caliper. Would that be because you did not loosen the bleeder valve? The reason I ask is I opened the bleeder valve to compress the piston and when I put everything back together I pumped my brakes before driving and it seemed fine. I took it out for a test drive and when I come to a stop I had to pump the brakes at least two or three times to get full pressure. Could that be due to air in my line? Since I didn't use the tool to compress the piston I didn't have 100% pressure on the piston at all times. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to spin it and a bicep to push. Could the bleeder valve have sucked in air when I went to reposition for the next twist and push? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for all your videos.

[@ModMINI]

I didn't loosen. Sounds like you have air in the line. If you open that valve while compressing, you need to bleed the system or be very careful to not lift off the pressure and to only close the valve when you see fluid coming out. Otherwise air could get sucked in.

[@nathanguymon1858]

I notice alot of Texas plates in your videos. You in Texas? Would love to meet you. - that guy who completely rebuilt a R53 JCW while working sobriety

[@ModMINI]

You must be thinking of someone else's videos. Seattle area most cars have WA, OR, BC, CA plates.

[@nathanguymon1858]

@@ModMINI man. I wish you had a Facebook profile I could friend. I love your videos😂 you inspired a complete rebuild on an abandoned R53 JCW

[@Wings-if2cp]

Can't thank you enough for your mini cooper videos! Great work and narration for explanations.

[@xzqzq]

Excellent video !! Thanks. Bought the compression tool from Amazon...

[@Youtubedotcomma]

Great vid, tackling this job at the weekend!

[@Michael-nm8me]

Just did my brakes thank you so much! Great video.

[@svdesertdepartedjoe9621]

Great job man I love this guy

[@HaydenLarsJ]

So how would you remove the rear calliper ear? The guide snapped when I removed them. Do you have a video you can recommend ?

[@ricperez1533]

great diy video! very easy to understand and follow. thank you!

[@gregarifian2242]

great video. if the wear sensors have not been tripped, do you still need to replace the wires?

[@lupoed]

A lot of r53 got a problem with corroded steel brakelines from front to back. Did you make a video on replacing them?

[@johnpohlman1430]

Very informative and well presented video. Do I follow the same procedure (inc the use of the special tool) to replace a rear wheel bearing & hub on my R50 cabrio? Cheers John

[@ModMINI]

Yes, it's pretty much the same thing. Good luck.

[@johnpohlman1430]

Thanks

[@VANS139]

awesome video man you saved me a ton of money

[@DavidHolguin562]

Great step by step, thank you!!

[@wettosixecho]

Any update on DVT or excessive wear on these CRK kits?

[@c10seth]

I really like your videos. Thank you for sharing. Why not crack the bleeder valve when pushing the caliper back? Thank you again!

[@ModMINI]

Good idea, just need to be careful to not let pressure off until valve is closed again. I do that sometimes, didn't want to make the video too complicated for first timers.

[@c10seth]

That's totally fair. I've always drained the fluid from the calipers because I believe the fluid closest to the calipers get heat cycled the most and needs to be replaced more often. Otherwise, it brakes down and doesn't do it jerb to help stop the car.

[@malcolmpotts9096]

Replaced front brake pads and discs. After market parts according to VIN number ID. Had odd experience! Lubed everything as directed. The outer pad on both sides is loose in the caliper housing....and they rattle! They work fine but clatter about and vibrate. Thought outer pads might come with shims, but no. I'm replacing them with top line products. Any thoughts from you? Cheers

[@daviddalrymple9080]

Very informative video,a big help.

[@jpbutler1983]

Do these need to be bled at all? Also, do you have a video covering the EML light for code P1498? Thanks. It has kind of a rough idle. It's my daughter's car. A 2006 Mini Cooper S convertible. Thanks!

[@raymondrizzuto7997]

I love your videos! I just replaced the rear brakes and rotors, pLus 1 caliper that was freezed. Because of the stuck caliper, the parking brake didn't work at all. Now it does, but it takes 3 clicks to engage it. I read elsewhere that means it needs to be adjusted. Do you have a video for how to do that?

[@ModMINI]

3 clicks seems pretty normal.

[@ModMINI]

It's fine as long as wheel turns no or very little resistance when disengaged.

[@Deeepain]

***** You mentioned their being bolts that had to be at a specific torque when reattached to the front brakes. Are their any like that on the rear brakes? Thanks in advance

[@toyotoe3732]

Thank you for this video. You had to use the air tool to remove the stubborn rotor screw. I do not have an electric impact gun or air tools. Do you think pounding an impact screwdriver with a hammer would have worked to remove the rotor screw?

[@VoltMX57]

You can just use a 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet with a T50 bit. Give the ratchet a good tap with your hammer. It normally works just fine. One good hard tap, and the screw comes right out :-)

[@ModMINI]

sloergod Yes, it might also be easier of you can stop the brake rotor from turning when doing this. If you don't have a helper, you can put a block of wood between the brake pedal and the driver seat. Push the seat forward to engage the brakes. The bolt on the front rotor was very tight but probably would have come out by tapping with a sufficiently heavy hammer.

[@paulsaxby7368]

Yes, a manual impact driver is preferable to power tools for this job, much more control on the progress. Do not put it back in tight and pre grease it, if it'd loose the rotor/disc is not going anywhere, the wheel bolts hold it on!

[@Danielcantieri]

I would like to put 225 50 R17 on the rear of my 2004 R53 S. They barely contact the inside. It’s definitely what I want to fill the hole . Do you suggest spacers and if so what kind and thickness. I put 215 50 R17 in the front, good fit. Thanks

[@vigoss10]

My dear friend, awesome videos all of them. I have a 06 S with John Cooper works. A check engine light comes on and goes away when I read open the gas cap...base on Ur expertise what's Ur advice?

[@ModMINI]

You need to read the code with an OBD scanner to know what it would be.

[@braedendosco9950]

Quick question still new to mini coopers but if that sensor is still intact is it okay to use again? Thanks for the info and great videos

[@ModMINI]

Yes, perfectly fine to reuse if you can get it out without damaging it. (it is a very brittle Bakelite type material) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bakelite

[@drewstevenson5478]

All sorted it's self out now. Bro i think you should make a one ball mod video

[@ModMINI]

I can't make an airtight weld so that's best left to the muffler shops.

[@craigbahr1343]

Your link for the tool now takes a customer to a tool package where the application guide doesn't list Minis. Since they can't list all cars, do you know if it fits 2005 Mini Cooper R50?

[@believe777one]

For a Countryman/R60 use a 6mm hex and a breaker bar, plus some penetrating oil,to get the set screw out.

[@leviatha0n0]

Your videos are awesome!

[@ModMINI]

Thanks for watching and for the encouraging feedback!

[@itzcomplicated5]

I need more guidance, I started but the rear caliper WILL NOT compress, I literally keep bending the handle for the tool with how much force I’m applying. Do I need to loosen the bleeder screw? I don’t know what to do..

[@SpikeBachman]

Again, thank you so much! Tremendously helpful!

[@harveys.2821]

awesome video, just had my brake pads and rotors done. now I have spongy brakes any suggestions? thanks in advance

[@ModMINI]

Need to bleed the brakes.

[@harveys.2821]

any special tool for bleeding a one man job

[@ModMINI]

amzn.to/2qBmSLl

[@sul8087]

Great helpful video! Has anyone ever told you you sound like Jordan Peterson lol

[@ModMINI]

I don't know who that is, so I guess 'no'

[@notezgaming2659]

So I've been looking for a few days and everyone I've watched has been super unhelpful. I am trying to fix my break booster the line snapped off the plastic piece that chills next to the brake fluid reservoir. IDK how to explain it very well but the hard plastic tube broke off the end of the grey piece that's inside the brake booster. Any advice on how to remove said line

[@Guarachero93]

Mod Mini., My Brake Pads light came on. So i am preparing to change my brake pads tomorrow. If i am not changing the rotors all i need to do is get the calibers off and insert the brake pads like any other car right? Keep in mind i had a miata for 4 years so when you mentioned the caliber tool, it threw me off a little. How exactly does that work? Thanks.

[@ModMINI]

Esteban Lozada The caliper tool winds back the rear caliper. It is threaded and rotates out to ensure correct parking brake adjustment. You won't be able to retract it unless you are twisting clockwise while pressing hard.

[@Guarachero93]

Got it! Thank you sir!

[@drewstevenson5478]

hi Bro thanks for all ya help with videos but can I ask after installing new discs&pads how do you reset check brakes light on the main dial????

[@ModMINI]

If you replaced any worn wear sensors, it should go off by itself after 1-2 drive cycles.

[@victorcharlie9548]

Can you do a video on how to upgrade the brakes to larger size. Great vids. 👍

[@TheGilbeau]

Great video again, thank you

[@rinjimegamistonermtlprince2217]

You mentioned not to mix old brake fluid with new. Do you have an video on hoe to drain and bleed the brake system? Does it require draining the fluid from all four tires?

[@ModMINI]

Just add brake fluid to the reservoir and keep bleeding farthest wheel until all the old fluid is gone from the reservoir. Top off fluid and bleed all four corners until fluid is clear at all for calipers.

[@leoklaes1573]

Great video. I found it very helpful. However, my Mini has JCW brakes, so the procedure for the front brakes is quite different.

[@timstephenson6291]

Great videos My Cooper s brakes seem a little soft to me is this normal

[@n.r.c.w]

I had the same and I decided to replace all rotors and pads. Now all I need to do is flush the fluid and all is new. If fading occurs with spirited driving, stainless steel brake lines are worth mentioning as an upgrade as well, because the stock brakes are actually not that great on the first gen MCS. You could also get a set of JCW or R56 calipers if you really want to improve stopping power because those came with a bigger piston and bigger rotors. I decided to start with decent rotors and some EBC Yellowstuff pads. I put them on my previous vehicle and all fading was gone - they even handled my track abuse. So in short: for normal road usage I'd go for new decent rotors & pads, fresh brake fluid, and if you feel like it some new brake lines.