MINI: Erratic Idle Issue, SOLVED

[@PogonaCraze]

I've taken my car to the mechanics three times in my life time. One at a local shop, one at a european car specialist, and the last at a mini cooper dealership. The first time, they failed to fix the issue and I was able to fix it myself with a new intake solenoid. The second time was at the specialist and my car was misfiring so a fuel injector and the thermostat were "replaced" (which I found out a year later, they didn't cause I tried plugging in the old thermostat and it was completely different). Still wasn't fixed, so the last stop was at a dealership in which they replaced all the things I had already replaced including spark plugs, coils, new injectors, etc. Needless to say, they couldn't fix it and told me I needed a new engine. At 75k miles, I didn't think it was worth getting a new engine, so I took it home and looked up videos. I was able to fix all the misfiring by simply replacing the dirty fuel filter in the fuel pump. They didn't even look at it! Now I'm not saying it was the sole reason my car was not working properly, but I got cheated twice and paid a lot of money just to be told I needed a new engine when they completely overlooked a simple replacement. Thanks to these kinds of videos, I was able to save myself from spending another couple grand. Please keep posting videos, no matter how simple of a fix it is. You could save someone a lot of money. Now my code reader is reading cylinder 4 is misfiring. I'll be strolling through your videos! Thanks 👍

[@TonyTony-je8tc]

Thank you 🙏

[@chakusdvds]

I'm getting a 1497 code-- could it be the dirty fuel filter? Thanks, Mike

[@precisiont5188]

The Ford dealerships I have gone to are also very incompetent and deceitful.

[@joeyjamesrisamasu9599]

Hello there, did you find out what the cause of cylinder 4 misfiring is? I have a 2002 R50 and have the same problem P0304 cyl 4 misfiring, I did a compression test and it is indeed below 150 psi. It could be the intake/exhaust valve I'm assuming but I'm not sure :"(

[@nicholask.3073]

I changed EVERYTHING and still runs rough. :( Fuel filter, plugs, coils, Vanos, timing chain, throttle body, pcv... time to trash it.

[@rogerrodriguez2227]

I want to thank you so much Mike, that this situation happened to you and for you posting this because this is exactly what happened to me after repairing a warp head from overheating, sending the head to the machine shop, and after the first... it started to do that engine idle, with misfires in all cylinders codes. and after finding and watching your video, I got to work, removed the Solenoid, cleaned it, removed the screen added power to the switch, sprayed it with contact cleaner, replace the screen then reinstalled it, started my mini and the idle was perfect!!! I hope my comments help anyone else that had the same situation happen to them... I tried cleaning first before buying a replacement solenoid... wow they are expensive!

[@DanEvans-yb6wk]

How expensive and from where, please? Mine is doing the same thing. Thank you for the excellent presentation! I subscribed.

[@adamhughes4442]

Same. Mine is misfiring. Worse when cold. The mini is so problematic!!!

[@andyproctor5513]

Was chasing the same fault. After changing both O2 sensors, saw this - Solenoid replaced and sorted withn minutes - thanks for sharing this, saved a lot of time and money

[@MikeMDs]

Nice! Glad that solved your issue. It was a strange one.

[@brothermalcolm]

O2 sensors was mentioned by my mechanic too but at a huge cost!

[@moleson02]

Wow!!!! Just spent 6 weeks replacing part after part seeing error code after error code and this was the problem. This post just saved me from dumping a car I just bought 2 months ago.

[@MikeMDs]

Heck yeah! Glad that helped

[@milank2964]

I'm on the same verge

[@wenghingtang2361]

@@milank2964jc kkjyvvvkvv bY bb p l?bvvbvbbbbbbvvv vb hbo vb n/ ? Nu

[@tammyr8587]

What a GREAT video! We rebuilt our N14 and are just dealing with all the lights on and an intermittent rough idle. Makes sense to check this one as the head made 2 trips to the machine shop! Thanks bunches for your videos! God Bless you.

[@MikeMDs]

Thanks for the info and the sub!

[@tm5346]

Great video has always!

[@romanpokidyuk2905]

Hey Mike! Thanks a lot for your video! Ive got same issue with my Peugeot 308 '13 with mostly the same EP6 engine. After a cold start, when engine starts to drop for a normal idle like 740-760RPM - this problem occured. Also - car starts shakin very violently when you first put it in a gear, no difference whether it be D or R. And once again - no failures or check-engine, no fault codes on both ELM or Lexia (basically - special diagbox for Peugeot\Citroen). I've tried everything from new coils & spark plugs, i've changed petrol station twice, even opened the valve lid and checked the timing chain - everything seems fine! And then I've found your video with the exact same problem, so i've chandeg the solenoid valve and voila! Everything finally works perfectly! Thank you man! Big respect from Russia!

[@theglaucusblue]

Of all the videos to help me diagnose my rough idle on my N14 r56, this was the answer. I had many but not all the symptoms of every other video, and I was really hoping to try anything, but replacing or servicing the timing chain (as this had been done only 20k miles earlier). This same solenoid was my issue and was SUCH an easy and cheap fix. We're back running smooth. Thank you very much.

[@MikeMDs]

I am very happy this helped in your case. Thank you for sharing.

[@parkersloan1973]

My car has had this problem for years. I’m gonna go get this fixed, thank you!

[@MikeMDs]

Did it work?

[@robinhosleftfoot]

Had same issue on my 2007 Cooper S recently. Changed plugs/leads and still had cold start issue. High Pressure Fuel Pump changed too. Sorted now, drives better than ever. MINI's are renowned for Fuel Pump issues as second time replaced now.

[@puppacito]

Do you run it low on gas often?

[@robinhosleftfoot]

@@puppacito fill full tank, then fill up when 3 bars left (10 bars on guage). Does this affect it?

[@bransonrhoads3063]

This is actually super helpful, my gf’s car got a cam sensor code and a maf code, replaced them both and it hasn’t done anything, so I’m gonna replace that solenoid now and hopefully it works!

[@cindybelisle9439]

What was the outcome?

[@christophersiwale7218]

Did it work?

[@oliverdahl8328]

Thank you so much! I had same problem with my new rebuild N14 and now it’s good with new solenoid!

[@patrickwarden2933]

Great video I'm trying an aftermarket solenoid just for the test if nothing else. It's a used car I did timing chain, head gasket, shaved head by hand, replaced oil pan gasket cleaning out that film in pan, replaced water pump, installed new plugs w aftermarket coils, new f bumper support, sanded and wired brushed front frame/suspension, new backing plates (factory only) and wheel sensors. All aftermarket except front backing plates and all work well so far. Injectors need to be sanded like a piece of tubing to fit back in if you have high miles or they wont pop back in. I had to clean mine twice pretty well at 207K.

[@MikeMDs]

Wow. Its a project of love )

[@joelparas2508]

I actually own a Peugeot 207 GT which has the Prince engine almost the same as this one. Thanks for letting us know what fixes you tried that didn't work. That's not embarrassing at all.

[@panaderialynn8490]

A good rule of thumb with these engines is to be careful about running fuel injector cleaners through your fuel tank... it can cause funk to foul up your oil and cause the VANOS solenoids to become clogged(ask how I found this out 😂) if you do run cleaners through I recommend changing the oil after the tank of fuel is almost out. You can spray the VANOS screens with brake cleaner(try not to get it on the plug) or let it soak in the acetone.

[@BobmaxXD]

I’m now reading this after putting liqui moly injector cleaner in my 08 mcs

[@osh241]

100% the issue on ours, took it out and cleaned it with carb cleaner and no issues since. Thanks!

[@MikeMDs]

Glad it helped!

[@ashishm8850]

My Mini is showing similar symptoms. Now I know what to look for. Thanks for the very informative video.

[@Judo_Jones]

Wow I literally JUST had the same symptoms on my, 2011 R56 N18, and I turned out to be the, Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, which is located on the fuel rail. Runs fine again. I'm going to go back in to Change both VVT Valves, tomorrow. Thanks guys

[@MikeMDs]

Very interesting. Glad you figured your issue out. Best!

[@garyleegomez8670]

THANK YOU!!! Been having same issues with my daughter's '08 Mini Hatchback. Neither her nor I could figure what the hell was wrong. Your vid showed us the only thing we didn't check. Replaced the VVT and we both look at each and did a victory dance. Thanks again!

[@MikeMDs]

Great to hear!

[@keyvanram2195]

Ive done everything that you’ve done but I still have had the same problem, thanks to you I’m gonna try to see if this is the issue! Thanks man

[@MikeMDs]

I hope it works for you!

[@GeoffsPhilsInfo]

Well done for finding the guilty part, sometimes I think back to the old 1959 Morris Minor, just a handful of parts to go wrong, and a huge space to work on your engine, that said I collect a 2007 used 1.6 petrol mini cooper tonight 😊

[@grantr0n]

God bless man. I have had so many issues with my same spec 09 and frankly having to go through every single possible fix before getting here wouldn’t have made sense relative to the value of the car. I’m going to try this. I appreciate the video.

[@KirkReed]

Hi Mike, I am currently experiencing something similar on my 2012 R56 non turbo. I rebuilt it after purchasing it for $500 with head gasket blown. I have P00BD codes show up about 400 seconds after starting. Slightly erratic idle at startup, then smooths out nicely. It does have very occasional surging, or possibly no fuel briefly at about 3000 rpm, which can set the P00BD code (MAF too high air flow). Replaced the MAF, O2 before cat, and spark plugs. It has 0.5mm bigger pistons (non turbo pistons), and head was decked and serviced. Block was decked also. I have ordered a new PCV valve, so that may be it. It's been running now 30 days since finishing the rebuild. Smoked the intake and found tiny leak at intake cam sensor. Cleaned O ring, now no leak. My son is a ASE mechanic, and so far he's stumped. I am new to Minis. It's fun to drive, but can't pass inspection. I did see a lean code recently also... but not normally. I clear codes, my son clears codes at shop, and keeps coming back. Could it be one or both of my Vanos solenoid's? Intake/Exhaust solenoids were removed before head went to shop, so they were protected, and I installed them myself. Sorry to bother you, but after hours of searching, your video checked most of my boxes for my problem. I tried to replace almost everything I could with new parts that I thought should be replaced. Also, what is the valve located in the valve cover in the center next to the air filter bolt? Not the PCV valve, the smaller one? I took it apart to clean it while rebuilding motor. Did I damage something?

[@MikeMDs]

Mass air meter faults are almost always due to a faulty throttle body. The throttle body is plastic and starts binding also the plastic gears inside start wearing out. Every MINI eventually needs a throttle body once in its lifetime. Thanks for watching my chanel and subscribing Kirk.

[@KirkReed]

@@MikeMDs Hi Mike, UPDATE: I took it to Mini. No help. They actually put a new throttle Body in, and a new Mass Air Flow sensor. Kept throwing a P00BD code. They also did a TSB for another code (new DME software...). When I picked it up, they had it idling for more than 30 minutes (maybe 40...) and when I drove out I saw the check engine light go OFF! I drove straight to DMV and it 'PASSED' emissions. That means no check engine light, although the P00BD code was in the Verified (?) section, not in the Pending nor was it in Permanent section on my Blue Driver OBD2. After driving a couple more drive cycles, Check engine light came back! Now I have two years to learn about my car. My guess is, this P00BD code is a cummulative number based on time of Mass Air Flow over time. Since my pistons are 0.5mm larger overbore, I believe it's measuring correctly. I think there is a limit in the ECU that if it goes over that limit, it sets the Permenant and Pending P00BD codes, so the light comes on. I now know if I let it idle for say up to 45 minutes, turn it off, then it probably will turn off the light for a drive cycle or two. The Mini dealership did nothing other than teach me that idling will help turn it off. Nothing is wrong with the car. I just need to find out if the ECU can have that Mass Air Flow limit number be increased... Any ideas?? I don't want to 'Tune' it, but is that what I need to find? Someone to tune it? I want the ability to remap the ECU back if done wrong. I don't want extra performance, just not have the light off. I do have bigger pistons. That's why I suck more air over time. Thanks for listening. I cannot find anyone else with this problem. Maybe that no one else bothers to rebuild a std non turbo Mini?

[@KirkReed]

I also swapped the Intake and Exhaust solenoids because you had that trouble. I also replaced the PCV valve. None of that helped. I am of the opinion it's running fine, just bigger pistons draw in more air past the Mass Air Flow Sensor...

[@abdullahsoso118118]

​@@KirkReedhey, i know it's long ago, but did you fix it back then because i have the exact problem and i did the exact steps you did and still didn't fix it, hope you remember 😬😅

[@CessMC]

My N14 has erratic idle as well. Going to be giving this a shot, thank you Mike!

[@albatross9127]

Wanted to post my Thanks for this video. I was having the same sort of weird problems after an engine rebuild. Errors were bouncing around from O2 sensors to MAF and none of that fixed the problem. Since I worried that some debris from the rebuild had plugged up the existing VANOS solenoid, I added a (messy!) step. I pulled the fuel pump fuse, let it run until it stalled. Then I put a big tray under the car, pulled the old vanos solenoid and then cranked the engine a bit to let it pump some oil and any debris from the oil galleys out the vanos solenoid hole... Cleaned up that mess, put a new vanos solenoid in, and it worked... I had one hint it was vanos related as my code reader showed that the vanos angles weren't changing, but that somehow didn't throw a code...

[@MikeMDs]

I'm glad your diligence paid off . Great job.

[@jb678901]

With a rough idle I would've also checked the PCV connection & its plastic hose too. The plastic hose connection between the dirty side of the valve cover and the intake manifold is notorious for cracking. Just take the OEM plastic hose (with its integrated fittings on each end ) out of the engine...pinch fittings at each end. Carefully cut out the fittings from the plastic hose. These fittings are simple BARBED FITTINGS at each end. Therefore, just go out and buy some 3/4 inch I.D. RUBBER hose of same length as the plastic hose. Slide on two hose clamps for the 3/4 inch hose, push those barbed fittings at each end and hose clamp them. This will solve the inevitable splitting of the cheap, thin walled, brittle plastic hose that is supplied with the car.

[@randfcs]

Question, have you seen any videos on how and where to remove the hose from? In the meantime, I just keep repairing it. I'm afraid to open a can of worms. Thanks in advance. ~Veronica

[@strongme80]

I had experienced erratic idle as well even changing out the VANOS solenoid. Of course the same route we all go through, changing plugs, coils, blah blah blah. So for the heck of it I checked compression. During a compression check, one of my cylinder (#3) was low at 120PSI but only when cold. I repeat, only when cold, at first start. When the motor warms up, the compression check registers normal across the board. So I shut down, then restart the idle is fine. So I found the fault to be the teflon injector seal. But unfortunately, if you were to pull the injectors, you need to change out all four since they're all attached to the rail by a tight viton seal. I recommend when you change the seal, no special tools needed for this, I have a trick, I just use a "Paper Mate Ballpoint Stick Pens 2006827", google it, it's the blue one that we all have used in our lives. I slide the teflon to the major diameter since it's the same diameter of the injector to expand the teflon. Once expanded, slide it off and put it on the injector. Cut off the pen cap leg, then use the pen cap to compress the teflon, give it a couple of minutes. When you remove the pen cap take no time and insert the injector before the teflon expands. Insert the injector one at a time so you'll feel it bottom out. Wear gloves and clean the injector seats extremely well, no oil must contaminate the teflon seal. Then when you have all four installed, push the fuel rail into position and tighten the four torx bolt. Bosch part # 2707010018. Easy peezee!

[@sawdoctor0]

Had all those problems. Poor idle, high oil consumption, erratic auto box, fumy exhaust. Took out the PCV which was OK but the whole thing was SO coked up. Cleaned it thoroughly and it runs like new. Thanks.

[@MikeMDs]

Nice work!

[@justinplet]

unfortunately we replaced this on our 2015 copper s and it didnt work. Had to send it to the stealer and they diagnosed it with a bad High Pressure Fuel Pump. $4200 CAD quote. I found a Bosch HPFP on Rockauto and had the local BMW specialist shop do it for $600. Still didnt fix the issue. Now the diagnosis is that the timing chain needs to be replaced because the HPFP broke it (they are connected) 30 hour job apparently. This car is a LEMON!!! This is our 2nd and last Mini. Our R56 Cooper S had major engine issues and now this has a major fuel issue. And we put premium, ethanol-free fuel in and only the best oils.

[@michaelbarefoot6334]

The N12 has two solenoids, one for each cam. My 08 Clubman (non-turbo) had a similar issue, but it was actually the broken plastic timing chain guild.

[@MikeMDs]

Thank you Michael you are correct, thanks for calling me out. I will make a note in the description. And thanks for watching.

[@autobotavengerfireballxl5339]

Every car has them it should kick a code my wifes ecotec 2.2 liter had the same issue

[@shesfromcryptonforthetech3198]

I had to like, comment and subscribe. Thanks to this video, I found and fixed my cars issue very quickly! Thanks!!!❤

[@MikeMDs]

I'm happy it helped. And thanks for the sub!

[@egghole3]

Cheers, man. This issue just began soon after I finished replacing a coolant hose and replacing all the valve cover gaskets. Perhaps a pieces of old gasket rubber or shred of paper towel found its way in that solenoid.

[@HMC_LTD]

thank you for the video as it stopped my head-scratching on a friends car first tomorrow morning we will be removing and inspecting for debris thank you for taking the time for doing the video

[@MikeMDs]

Good luck!

[@senorclap7874]

I know this is an old video, but figured I would still throw this in here. I had a similar rough idling issue about 200miles after I had to get a cylinder machined. Thought it was the fuel tank vent valve but after seeing this video I replaced the solenoid and it seems to have fixed it fingers crossed. I did lose the bolt for the solenoid so if anyone needs the bolt size it is a 10mm 6x16 bolt. There is another video of a guy actually doing the swap that is very helpful, recommend checking that out as well if anyone decides to do this yourself. Hopefully any of that was helpful!!!

[@MikeMDs]

Thanks for your input.

[@andreasf5882]

hi! Did you have poor throttle sometimes underneeth and of course poor idle only when engine runs like 30minutes

[@jesusdvr1983]

Thanks I really appreciate what your doing I changed the ignition coils and spark plugs and was the same, I just change the selenoide and work's great. Thanks again Cheers from Tijuana México

[@precool]

I miss Mexico. I grew up in San Diego and we had a lot of fun at Laser Club Oh back in the day. Good people in that city. Not many party types take the time to respect the locals etc.

[@mvivanc]

Hermano pero el cooper tiene 2 solenoides uno de admision y otro de salida. El mini que tengo es 2013 cual cambiaste?

[@Tadei7]

Thank you very much! this video saved me! i changed everything and the Idle was still abnormal! just unplugging the sensor made a huge difference. The motor is 8FP (BMW motor) that is in MINIS and also C3 (2011 - 1.4. VTI 95). My motor has 2 of those sensors, still not sure if both are a problem or only one.

[@swidahopapatnaghodach4776]

Thanks for sharing, another item to check on my rough idle no code venture.

[@_alexandriaaa.]

Haha I literally just got this issue fixed on my 2013 Mini Countryman. It drove me crazy. Had to have my oil pan gasket replaced along w my oil pan adapter due to a crazy leak and horrible burning smell. Got it back and it was still rumbling like crazy, turned out to be something w the intake valve not fully being on and air getting inside 🤦🏽‍♀️ now I’m getting check engine light but it’s for the thermostat 🙄..

[@MikeMDs]

I know. It's a love hate relationship sometimes. More love than hate tho.

[@anthonygreen502]

I had the same problem which put the engine check light on,cleaning the throttle body cured the problem and reset the engine check light by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes Job done

[@Yugsie]

Mechanical fail vs an electronic fail, probably why no codes. good catch!

[@MikeMDs]

Thank you!

[@georgereeves3921]

Hi Mike I own a R60 Countryman Diesel 2013 . The problem is that I have is erratic idle on tick over I also tried holding the speed at 2000rpm, this was also erratic, once the car has been driven for awhile, take your foot off the throttle and then put your foot back on the throttle to pull away, I have a loss of power and the engine goes into limp mode, let the car stand for 3 or 4 minutes, it will come out of limp mode but still has erratic revs. The car has been in the mini main dealers for 5 weeks. So far, the parts that have been changed by the main dealer is the AGR Ventil, Glow Plugs, EGR Valves, and EGR Cooler, Pre heating Control Unit, Remove and install Intake Manifold, EGR Control, DP Filter cleaned on vehicle, EGR Cooler and Air Mass Sensor and DDE Control Unit Replaced, Walnut Blast and DPF Regeneration carried out. Then they removed DPF for thorough cleaning and replaced. After all this we still have the same problem. After watching your video which was very interesting, do you think the problem could be with the VVT Solenoid causing this? The car has only done 67,000 miles. Thanking you in advance for your help and reply.

[@precisiont5188]

Those are the same symptoms in my 2014 Ford Mustang V6 3.7. I did so much work on it and its almost gone but the car still doesn't have as much horsepower as before and it still has a rough idle. I also changed the throttle body and it didn't seem to help. I also replaced the mass airflow sensor, spark plugs, used sludge cleaners in the oil, cleaners in the gas, etc.

[@denisdimitrov5051]

Changed exactly this part with new original one. I have less ratle than this, but is the same. Car drives well, gives me good mileage. I think it's timing chain guides. Time to go to the service shop.

[@justinflick6802]

Thanks this fixed my issue on my Mini!

[@bondoman2k]

It looks like this might be my prob. 2009 Clubman, N12. Had a very bad oil leak on it, ended up replacing the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, and oil pressure switch. Here's the chronological order of repairs since January...put a new foot module (basically the fuse box), new water pump, thermostat housing, and the plastic pipe connecting them, then all the before mentioned gaskets, then the plugs and coils, then the upstream O2 sensor, and just last week the alternator and battery. Oh, in that time too I also replaced the throttle body valve as well (used one). That looked like it might have gotten soaked with all the oil it was losing, since it was all on the passenger side of the car. Car was running great, except for a very small idle issue, and hesitating a little on acceleration. Ran great last night, went down the street to the gas station. Came out today, it started fine but then the yellow engine light with the little 'half slash' thing came on after I went about 50 feet. Turned it around and parked. Then I checked codes with my little Autel reader, got the P1057, and the P1062 limp home code, and the P115D refer to service manual. Is it possible that this valve might have gotten soaked with the oil it was leaking (it was BAD, I was losing 3 to 4 qts EVERY time I drove it) since the leak was actually pouring out the same side all these issues I was having before are on? I'm sure it might also just be age, it has 138,000 on it but I bought it wrecked 3 years ago at 125,000 and the guy that owned it before really didn't take care of it very well. I know if I keep having probs, this thing is gonna put me in bankruptcy! :/ I had around 6 grand in it before all this this year, and I'm pushing 10 grand now!

[@MikeMDs]

Sounds like you are bringing this thing back from the dead. I hope it returns the favor and treats you well once everything is sorted out.

[@Timber81]

What's that song Kenny Rogers sings about a Gambler? With minis, you got to know when to fold, hold and Run Away!

[@cosinus_square]

N12 engines (non turbo) are dual Vanos, they have intake and exhaust cam solenoids.

[@MikeMDs]

I appreciate that. Thank you.

[@mafiadebo]

I’m having the same problem with no check engine light. Thanks I will change out the solenoid hopefully it work

[@MikeMDs]

I hope it works out

[@lynxstarautomotive208]

The Ole MINI Blooper cold start tractor idle 😂. These cars are terrible, but am I grateful for them! Bought a house thanks to them.

[@precisiont5188]

My car requires the valve covers to come off to replace the VVTs. Thank you for the insight. This might be it.

[@Yugsie]

Happy motoring...love that phrase, I've sai it since I was a little boy...from the commercials 😅

[@MikeMDs]

Classic

[@willemstreutgers1154]

I recall those engines are made by Peugeot(PSA) One should maintain these engines with the right prescribed oil and shorten the intervals.

[@MikeMDs]

You are correct!

[@cashster0011]

Agree

[@precool]

Solid man. How about a super knock combined with a cylinder misfire? I changed the trouble (3) coil but it’s still not strong but less choppy. Spark plug? I’m driving a 2007 Mini Cooper S. Thanks man.

[@AR-xt8kn]

Thank you for hanging our flag the correct way round.

[@taipan8021]

These cars can beat the Best, with High Tec tools. It's always 1 Car that will Try to drive you Crazy. Just got a Mini come in to Service ,And From Problem to Problem.Coils Bad. Converter Clogged. And Valves 2 and 3 possibly damaged. Life

[@aaf8030]

N12 cooper having similar issues. On cold starts its pullsates a lot until warm then after that struggles to idle and will cut out all together. Also feeling a slight chugging when driving under 2krpm as well as an odd noise when above 2k rpm. Ive recently had the sparks replaced new valve cover gasket thermostat and battery.

[@MikeMDs]

Its a tough one without checking things in person. If it has mass air meeter faults then it may be a faulty throttle body.

[@erikdominguezristol2104]

So helpfull. thank you. I’m gonna replace it but I have bought a valve of aftermarket from Gates, in the video you say that buy an original one but I would like if mine is not that bad to return it or not, I don’t know…You left a doubt on me about it hahhaha

[@MikeMDs]

Thanks! You already have the part. I'd use it. Its not a bad brand.

[@timwright848]

My 2008 mini threw up a P0015 code, checked it out …..VVT Solon oil fault, replaced both runs great 😊

[@dolcecompas2178]

Hola ! Hacía la falla en frío y caliente ? Si desconectabas algún sensor de árbol de elevas no mejoraba ? Saludos

[@ryancallaghan3084]

Hey I live way too far away from a dealership or anyone who can even work on my mini. My mini says it has a misfire on cylinder 1 I did new spark plugs, new wires, and replaced the ingnition coils. When she is above 2000 rpm she is fine but at idle it misfires and runs hard, but when you turn off and start back up again she runs fine as long as I don't go into idle.

[@Bigbopperairguns]

If you dont put The highest grade premium gas. You will have nothing but issues after. I realized that the car actually has been running. Great, until I just noticed that it's not shifting, right? Because there's possibly a coolant leak the engine get too hot The metal will expand causing it not to go into gear? Based off this video I've seen right off. The bat, it looks like a coil issue.

[@Djangostang]

mine is an oddball too apparently. Thanks for the insight.

[@MikeMDs]

Good luck

[@ladywizard4299]

Good day @Mike MDs I have a 2009 mini cooper r56/n12 I have been getting code 002B68 Mass air flow plausibility. 002b15 Differential pressure, intake manifold plausibility I have changed the VVt, The intake manifold map sensor and the Pcv==vc Membrane, spark plugs, and coils. still no change. I even double checked my timing as I also changed my Valve seals. Any suggestions

[@MikeMDs]

Hi, It sounds like a bad throttle body to me. Check out my other video on the top 9 reasons your mini runs rough.

[@andreasf5882]

Hello :) did you got your MIni runs fine ? please help, thanks

[@trevorlonewolf6406]

Nice But where did you take it our from

[@KenyonPayne]

My friend has a 2010 cooper s turbo with a weird issue. Engine runs fine for the most part but throws a bank 1 rich at idle code. Checked fuel trims and when the engine is idling after start it has a ton of negative fuel trim value. Seems like the engine sorts itself out after driving for a while, but still idles rich. Supposed fix is new valve cover, that did not fix the problem. What other things could cause this?

[@lorenjennings1127]

Since you specialize in Mini's, I have a couple of questions. I am researching the Mini before I purchsase one. These cars tend to run hot. Can a cooler thermstat be installed? I live in Arizona. Oil consumption and oil funes seem to be another problem. A better synthetic oil with a hight oxidation temperature would be better than a regular oil . Is that something that is encouraged? How are the automatic transmissions in these cars? Thanks for your input....

[@garydsouza2335]

have you ever removed the temp senor on this type of engine, its not the standard green one... mine has a built on loom with 2 plugs on it.

[@sange6305]

I have a 2002 supercharged S R53 Mini Cooper, after I changed the intercooler it ran lean and it was hunting idle. It had a lot of the issues you found with yours as well. The exhaust was incredibly hot, so much so that it was bright red and looked like it was going to melt. I was surprised it didn’t! Do you have any idea what the issue would be with mine? I’m going to change the pulley just waiting on tools to arrive In mail

[@MikeMDs]

If the exhaust is glowing red then it is because there is an air leak causing the cat to glow. Like fanning a fire. Check the gasket seals for the intercooler. It can get pinched and caused an unmeetered air leak causing this issue. I've seen it before. Thank you for subscribing : )

[@keeping-up-with-pg]

My mini dies while driving. Do you think this is the same issue.makes same noise before shutting off.

[@caitlinwilkinson7467]

Did I find the cause of problem mine does the same

[@keeping-up-with-pg]

@@caitlinwilkinson7467 yes real simple fix. Junked it for cash 😁😂😂

[@vktechtv4244]

Mine does this (not as bad though) only on cold and only in the first 5-6 minutes of running. Once warm, idle is as smooth as can be. Also no warning light. When cold, choke at 1100-1200 rpm, no idle issue, then it drops after 30secs-1min to 600 rpm, and idles with dips it recovers from, down to maybe 350-400rpm. The only thing that bothers me about it, is if its damaging the chain and cassette. It's an N18 Cooper S with just 30,000 miles and regular oil checks, like every 4000-6000 miles or annually.

[@kingroguetv2039]

2010 cooper replace ignition coils still has the erratic idling I’m a try replacing the the valve u show in this video

[@RaWoodgett]

Same thing happened to my clubman. Took me a minute to figure it out. Resorted to parts swapping. $$$

[@annwilson3941]

Did it have the original gas cap??? I know my 2015 was needing a new cap

[@900whp]

Hi Mike I have a 2016 mini Cooper S all4 1.6L turbo ,auto..Car is fairly new but miles are about 150K.. i’m having similar issues with my car like you ..when cold and I try to put it in gear Either Reverse or drive ..It wants to hesitate and sometimes it does stall out.. i’m not sure if my issue is the Vanos… I’m pretty sure you replace the intake Vanos but I read on your video correction that the non-turbo engines also have one by the dipstick I’m guessing that’s the exhaust vanos but my car also has a Vanos there and it’s turbo .. So I have two Vanos us one on the intake side and one on the exhaust side by the dipstick.. now I’m not sure if I should replace just the intake or replace both… i’m not getting no codes for Vanos issue..I already replaced the low pressure fuel sending unit Under the rear passenger seat also replaced the 02 sensor bank 1 closest to Turbo.. The fuel sending unit was a oem brand Pierburg and the O2 sensor was a Bosch.. still runs the same check engine light is still on no difference.. codes im getting are P0171 System too lean bank one, ,P0300 Random misfire detected,P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected and again P0171 System too lean bank 1 all codes Are permanent ..I don’t know if I should bite the bullet and replace both of Vanos with OEM ones which are about $200 a piece but not sure if that’s going to fix my problem but I am getting the same symptoms you are I think you said in the beginning of the video you were getting a lean code .. this is my daily driver and I am in New York, when a car has a check engine light it will not pass inspection.. previous owner spent about 2000 on new parts including new valve cover new map sensor new mass sensor .. i’m totally lost here or if I knew one or both Vanos were bad I would replace in a heartbeat.. Your video was very helpful.. Before replacing your Vanos was it throwing any type of codes if so you remember what they were.. Any help from you or anyone would be appreciated.. I am a mechanic myself and mostly work on Mitsubishi Evo‘s .. never thought how temperamental these minis are which are BMWs.. Great video content I know it helped a lot of people who knows maybe it would help me but I don’t wanna spend $400 and I Still have a check engine light.. After about 15 seconds on cold start the car runs and drives perfect I was also thinking may be the high-pressure fuel pump was The issue So I was going to replace that or injectors could be full of carbon I only run 93 octane gas but I know that doesn’t make a difference when it comes to carbon buildup with Direct port injection my last option was thinking maybe Throttlebody like you mentioned in your video. Last case scenario was thinking the computer may be faulty.. sorry for the long post but I’m throwing parts at it and getting nowhere and my inspection is due next month 😭.. Again great content

[@MikeMDs]

Hi, I'd focus on the lean mixture faults. A faulty valve cover ( with built in crankcase diaphragm) can cause a lean mixture. You may need to smoke the induction system. It could be fuel related too. Hard to say without seeing it in person.

[@900whp]

Thank you very much Mike for getting back to me.. The car has a brand new valve cover was pretty expensive I think $500..I know the PCV System is located in the valve cover that’s why it was replaced but didn’t make any difference there is still a check engine light.. I did a boost leak test .. I put 20 psi of compressed air into the intake manifold and they were zero leaks… i’m not sure if a smoke test would be any different because at idle the motor is creating vacuum and when it hits boost it creates pressure.. so a boost leak check I preformed I would hear a leak if there was a break in a line ,intercooler pipes etc.. I’m not getting not even one code for Vanos or cam so I don’t know if I should change the Vanos because if I do I’m gonna put OEM in my car has 2. 1 on the intake side one on the exhaust side so replacing both of those would be close to $300 which again would be a gamble replacing those because I’m getting new codes for anything cam related.. i’m getting misfired codes from cylinder three and cylinder four.. Also six other codes one of them being lean code bank 1 ,P0171.. also where are you located I know if you got your hands on this car you would be able to fix it but not sure where you’re from I’m in New York by NYC

[@MikeMDs]

Okay sounds like you have done the correct things. Having a misfire only on two cylinders ( assuming you've already checked plugs and coils ) makes me think you have a burnt valve. It will cause misfire and can cause lean mixture as unmetered air will enter the combustion chamber. See if you are able to do a compression test on those cylinders. Also fuel injectors can cause that as well. But i'd make sure compression is good.

[@MikeMDs]

Or if you have a borescope with a horizontal camera , you can inspect the valves through the spark plug hole. It's usually an exhaust valve.

[@naqaychaayal302]

4:11 you’re welcome. Smh

[@malkavianloner8808]

Mvp

[@JodBronson]

For a 7:02 minutes video? He's explaining the symptoms and the possible causes. LISTEN so you can learn and apply that to your case. It's not like HE'S talking about his arse or his neck or how big his d!ck is! SERIOUSLY, MAN.... I can see some of you WILL NEVER AMOUNT TO ANYTHING !!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@Juan_Hernandez_Jr.]

Hahaha.....

[@RevolwerDj]

Hello mate, thanks for the video. I changed this valve today, because I have the same issue with the N14 engine, but after the new Solenoid Valve, this issue is not solved in my Mini Cooper S 07. What can I do next?

[@MikeMDs]

I have another video on top 9 reasons your mini is running rough. See if anything pertains to your issue. Best of luck!

[@windsoradams1700]

I had exactly the same issues with my mini, last month had the walnut blast, new coils, spark plugs and more. Just took it in Monday for the same as this video and they replaced the solenoid. I just picked it up drove it home and limp mode light just went on 😢.

[@Sulimankhayyat]

I took out mine it was clean and I tested it. It was working fine.I doubt this is my issue. I have rough idle code "unmetered air at intake manifold" I took out the manifold took it apart nothing is wrong or lose or leaking.

[@ericmothman7107]

MR MD ? I got a very peculiar odor coming out of the exhaust pipe with possibly bluish white smoke. I’m running synthetic oil it’s a brand new oil change and it starts smoking after it’s been idling for a while not un cold start ups but when idling my first idea is that it’s a valve seal guides that are bad and it does that because of the way the heads are manufactured, but is it something else other than that that I can check before I go into Val seal guides? 2008R 56 non-turbo mini Cooper. 135,000 miles.

[@MikeMDs]

Hi, If you let the car idle for a few minutes at operating temperature. Then hit the gas petal hard to rev it up. If you see smoke then it goes away . it is worn out valve guide seals for sure.

[@RaymondHerbert-j3o]

Very good. Info and video👍👍 i have exactly that. Problem

[@MikeMDs]

Hopefully you can figure it out. Best of luck to you!

[@NateSchroeder]

I’m 99% my N14 needs this done but the shop I’m at wants to take the valve cover off and check the timing chain, which I replaced in 2017. I would ignore their recommendation and have VANOS done if it weren’t for all cylinders misfiring and producing error codes. Do I replace the VANOS anyway or go with recommended service? Spark plugs replaced, coils are fine, replaced pcv and no longer running lean or vacuum leak. I replaced intake hose and air box a month ago, first thing I had shop do was hot engine flush. Also, Thank you for this video!

[@MikeMDs]

It's possible needs the vanos solenoid. If there are timing faults then they may want to make sure the upper timing chain guide is not broken. It is a good idea to check first to rule that out.

[@NateSchroeder]

Mike MDs thanks for the reply. No timing faults just all 4 cylinder misfires. I think I’ll replace the VANOS myself to save on labor and if issue still persists have the shop check the CAM shaft alignment per their recommendation.

[@martinvaldepena48]

Hi Mike I have 2008 Mini Cooper we had engine rebuild about three years ago it ran nice now for few months. Mini bin parked .when driving about 30 mph it gives a hard jerk when it’s cold it does a lot sooner ive check for codes none. I have no clue on what can be giving me this problem I don’t want to guess at new parts I’ve looked on web sites videos but no one seems to have this problem I would love to take it to a shop but last time this shop charged me $600 dollars and didn’t fix the problem this was when we first purchased the mini turn out it needed a rebuilt engine. oil in pistons miss firing all cylinders . Thanks for the help are you located in CA am in AZ.

[@MikeMDs]

Does it feel transmission related?

[@martinvaldepena48]

@@MikeMDsam gonna say yes but it's doing exactly same think just be fore we rebuild the engine I did pull up this engine code 5e31.

[@armirhoti3813]

Thanks for the vidio again mate you are a star,, just have exactly the same issue going mad replacing everything and no difference at all, just watched your vidio and i replace that selenoid and i need to mentioned i did check the old one and it clicked but something it wasn’t right inside anyway i put new one after that car driving like brand new! Thanks a lot

[@MikeMDs]

Glad it helped

[@paulenriquez1]

Could this also be the problem on a 2016 clubman?

[@themilktrayman7369]

Excellent job bro you may just have stopped a suicide 😂

[@bigworm1363]

2015 R60. Code P13C0. Thoughts??

[@billypemberton2478]

Did the car run fine when you had it out on the road,or did it run rough then as well?My sons car is running rough as a Cobb when idling but runs fine out on the road.

[@MikeMDs]

It would run fine when off idle and driving around. When coming to a stop is when it would act up.

[@michaelsmith3456]

FANTASTIC information thank you.

[@pumpkinspice6118]

Hi, did you find the issue? I have the same thing the engine just cuts out.. I’ve changed the brake vacuum pressure sensor following a different video but this still happens. I also have an engine light and a stop/start warning light on. Thanks

[@philhill7973]

Is that the same motor that Citroen us in the ds3 ?

[@westtexas501]

by any chance, do you know what the up stream o2 sensor is reading when running good ? voltage wise

[@24seven72]

Mine started and all like that not quite as bad in drive but it just literally blew up and caught fire yesterday

[@luisquilesrivera6874]

I'm having headaches wit this r55 mini cooper I change the gas pedal OEM and the throttle body OEM. But I'm still getting the same code. E/D incorrectly and E voltage circuit low. I also send the mini to do a remap for the throttle and didn't work. I use multimeter and snap on scan tool and I can't get it fix. I'm a tech from Quiles Auto Repair. But is the first time that I can't find the problem I also send the car to the BMW local and their can't find the problem. I re ordered another throttle to see if it was defective but the other wierd thing is. When I press the brake pedal the limp mode appear only by pressing the brake pedal

[@MikeMDs]

Wow thats a good one. Sounds like an engine control unit issue. But that's easy for me to say when it's not my but on the line. Let me know if you figure it our.

[@nikusha29n]

Heloo mike. I just change my spark plugs and coils on my 2008 copper s . Only thing is number 3 coil it steel won’t work, I take out the wire and looks like no power going from wire to coil. I should change wire or it could be something different? Thanks

[@happylife2419]

MY COUNTRYMAN IS IDLING HIGH OUT IF NOWHERE BUT MY DOOR GOT SLMED HARD AND THE DOOR LOCKER EOD IS OUT OF DOOR CAUSING THE LIGHTS TO KERP O AND OFF WEARING BATTERY. NOW THE IDLING STARTED. FROM WHST YOU SAID BECAUSE OF THE ALTERNAYOR I HAVE BEE JUMPING THE CAR FOR OVER 1 month.

[@neilwilson9221]

Ive got a dip in my idling which makes the mini shudder slightly and have replaced coils , sparkplugs , oil and a walnut blast and its made no difference and there are no faults listed. Before I blow more cash , do you think it could be the Vanos solenoid ? Any help would be much appreciated

[@MikeMDs]

I say just keep driving it until a fault code appears. Otherwise you are just guessing. For me I eventually received a mass air meter plausibility fault.

[@cesarnuno309]

I have the same engine noise in my mini cooper countryman 2012 and I have replaced my spark plugs and ignition coils. I just read out the code and its a p119D and am wondering what I should do?

[@WillMahler]

Great tip! Will definitely keep an eye out for that as our MINIs, age.

[@TurningBacktheClock]

Did this cause the engine to stall once up to temperature?

[@MikeMDs]

In this case no

[@Ty_Thailand]

Could this be causing puffs of smoke to come out of the exhaust on acceleration as well?

[@MikeMDs]

If is a puff of smoke after idling at a stop for a while, it is likely worn valve guide seals.

[@Ty_Thailand]

@@MikeMDs damn i hope not

[@flycatchful]

A code is one thing but understanding what led up to code being displayed is another. I own both a Mercedes 2002 SLK 320 and a 2013 Mini Cooper S hatchback. The Mercedes has thrown only one code for an inoperative taillight assembly. This is a common fault for this car and I traced it down to the left assembly. I reviewed all the fixes on UTUBE and never got the problem fixed. The fix was to replaced the entire assembly with a unit manufactured prior to the year 1999. It appears Mercedes used a subcontractor to manufacture this part and they screwed up in their manufacturing process. Mike, did his trouble shooting and used the codes to steer him in the right direction. Being a parts chaser is both time consuming and a waste of money.

[@MikeMDs]

Interesting. Thanks for your thoughts.

[@TunerGuy_90]

09 Mini Cooper Base. The car spit/sputtered on my way home. Check engine light came on. Rough ible cranking up. Put on a new MAF sensor, still didn't fix it. Drove it down the road, and 3-5 miles in, started sputtered again. Threw code "2B4F, Mass Sensor Signal. Any thoughts? It has new fuel filter, plugs, coils, air filter, oil/oil filter. Checked the seal around gas cap. I got told it could be a vacuum leak around the valve cover gasket. (Little oil around it when I checked)

[@MikeMDs]

Hi, I have another video of the top reasons your mini runs rough. From the sound of it, it could be a bad throttle body. Refer to the video. I think it will help.

[@elichildofGOD]

Hi Mike, i do have a huge problem with a Mini Cooper 2007 Petrol 1.6 Automatic. The engine sounds like a diesel and it has a bad rattle. If you have time, can you have a look at the video on my profile, please? Someone suggested full timing chain replacement. What’s your opinion on that? Thank you!

[@MikeMDs]

Hi, these engines are known for being noisy like that. Just make sure oil level is good. The noise sounds like ( from what I can tell ) it is coming from the vacuum pump. They can get noisy if the engine was run low on oil in the past. I'd replace it if it is the noise. They can bind and cause the camshaft to break. It's good insurance regardless. Let me know if that fixes it.