Mini Lathe 3HP Motor Upgrade..... (Yep 3HP)

[@artisanmakes]

Tune in next week for the dramatic conclusion. Already up to 3mm DOC in steel and I can definitely push it further. EDIT: Alright the internet convicted me to change the wiring, no need to comment further. Also the wring is already delta, you can probably see the connection terminal in the top right corner at the 16:36 mark. See you this Saturday

[@vaulthecreator]

Why did I suddenly have an image of a mini lathe whizzing round it's spindle? Lol

[@krashanb5767]

Nuts 😂

[@THEOGGUNSHOW]

Thanks for posting this, I was pondering this idea 💡 myself. I'll definitely keep an 👁 out for the conclusion video 📹 🙂 👌

[@DJDiarrhea]

How long until the bed is bent?

[@peterspencer6442]

I think that, as of now, the limit is where you say it is!

[@davidbastow5629]

At 3:31 I totally expected you to say "I also can't stress enough how much it feels like a blue monster staring back at me". Those cable glands look like eyes!

[@BaldyTron]

Yes cookie monster

[@Protocol-X]

Hah yes, I was thinking the same, and wondering why I had not yet seen a cookie monster comment.

[@OWSNubbles]

​@@BaldyTron the monster craves chips. Fat, juicy, deep depth of cut chips

[@Convolutedtubules]

Swarf Monster!

[@SimJackson]

Glad it wasn't just me 😂

[@forest3159]

We should all pitch in and get this gentleman a band saw, I've seen him use a hacksaw in his videos more than I've used one my entire life. Great content 👍

[@markrainford1219]

But it's good for him. It makes his arm tired.

[@simpleman283]

He's just doing that for exercise.

[@robertwalker7457]

I agree, or have a raffle.

[@liferlanceadventures1465]

I'd Chip in some greenbacks

[@squidysquid7586]

I just want him to address why he hasn't got a band saw yet

[@Sanny987]

This has to be the most up-graded mini lathe to ever exist.

[@joell439]

It's pretty modded..... But RotarySMP's version is also really well done - kzbin.info/aero/PLHRtJd1bD3IQU-A-CPBwys-tTM3wKMOGW

[@woozhi9218]

Nah not enough it needs a hydrostatic way or somesort wear is our worst enemy.

[@AceCreationsAz]

@@woozhi9218 yeah but he could probably buy a new bed so cheap for the mini lathes

[@shirothehero0609]

Nah. You should have seen some of them on the old newsgroups boards. People have done some NUTTY stuff.

[@shirothehero0609]

​@@woozhi9218 imo, stiffness. Stiffness is the biggest issue with these tiny lathes. When you get a motor with real power it twists these lathes like a noodle.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Great work. Got to say it's equal parts fun and scary to watch 😁 One of the more practical reasons to use an over-size motor, is that you can still get ample power out of the motor, even when it's running below rated frequency. This makes the single belt/pulley position a lot more usable than it otherwise would be. Good stuff.

[@Steve-lh8by]

Nice! I run a 2HP 3 phase on my mini lathe as that's what I had spare. You need to operate the VFD via remote, you can probably use the controls already on your lathe for the variable speed and forward/reverse, it saves having the VFD near the lathe and getting it oily with your fingers. Steve Jordan did a great video on doing it.

[@Baldorcete]

You only need an on/off switch, a direction switch, (You can combine both and use only two wires, and a potentiometer to control many VFDs. Add some safeties like the emergency stop and you are done. Keep the control box small voltage and current, and any actual power switch in a dedicate box with the VFD. Add RJ45 connectors at both ends, and you can place the control box whenewer you want. If you need more wires, use DB15 or DB25 connectors. Remember to keep the start/stop intelocked swhitch in the main power. You dont want the power going out and the lathe to start itself when it returns.

[@gofastwclass]

Wow, what an upgrade! That is like a V8 weed wacker! I have a 15" swing gear head lathe that weighs 2300 LBS (1043 Kilos) and it uses a two speed, three phase, 3 HP motor. With that much power, depth of cut no longer becomes an issue for the hobbyist. Your new problem will be rigidity and damage if / when you make a mistake. I love the creative solutions to your problems, thank you for sharing.

[@johnsheppard1476]

Damn,I really ran the same thing with a 0,3 hp motor from ASEA motors(came with an old twin spindle attachment that was sexy enough at the time for me but while the whole contraption came as a "vintage" ARO drill mod 76** C,just for $460 while the brand new attachment from Rand Ingersoll costs about 4500$ alone so I took the deal of course!)-so it is obviously enough for an amateur machinist..Meanwhile I never understood why ever since 1980-s those "pneumatic auto feeders" are almost as expensive as they were yet barely anyone still uses them and their attachments are still produced by different companies and yet I see some of them on eBay for quarter of the price of the new..So anyway I just bought a real monster of a drill as an investment/for the ridiculously powerful 25hp motor that it has..And the only time I used it even to a fraction of it's power(BTW it has a 4" stroke,it's vertical and has a twin spindle attachment with 2×13mm chucks size)-it drove two carbide bits through a 5cm thick titanium piece without even slowing down,or any effort-and the whole thing is just over 120 lbs with motor and manual control unit,pneumatic self feeding system,cooling system and the rest..Just 10 seconds,one stroke,3900 rpm,air cooling selected-just a nice fire show of turnings and the drill just retracts up in less than a second..Isn't that insane?Nearly overloaded the grid of an entire house and according to the manual it can draw up to 1040 amps at 24vdc so quite serious even for a machine shop..Probably would easily power an entire array of similar drills along with a number of other automation systems,pistons and other stuff..

[@1crazypj]

Love the logic 'three is bigger than two' Glad you explained why your using carbide tooling, makes perfect sense when you have enough power and can't get low rpm. I have wondered what would happen with a two hp motor as I just happen to have one, going to three is total overkill but great fun. For brazed carbide, use a Dremel and a cheap Chinese diamond bit to re-shape top cutting edge for aluminium

[@haroldpearson6025]

But you do not have the rigidity in the machine itself.

[@fredflintstone8048]

Love it! I own a chinese mini lathe and one of my biggest complaints is the very low torque at slow speeds. I replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker and will overload and trip it when I'm trying to torque up on something at a low RPM. One must keep a meathook on the speed control to pull this off. It's one of several reasons that I'm on the hunt for a used 'big boy' lathe. Not only can I handler larger parts which has been another problem, I can get higher torque at lower rpm. Of course a motor swap out like this is another solution but I'm going right to a more complete solution to the shortcomings of the mini lathe. Don't misunderstand me. I've made a lot of great small precision parts with mine but if I had it to do all over again I would have bypassed the purchase and saved my money for a better lathe. I've also spent a fair bit of time making improvements to the mini lath. Hindsight of course always being 20-20.

[@philipgeorge5708]

Have you checked the alignment of the bed after bolting it down to a piece of 20 mm hot rolled. Just a thought?

[@artisanmakes]

Not yet, Its always been a little out of whack, so correcting it will just be moving the shims around

[@tims6870]

I must admit I missed seeing the hacksaw in action when cutting down your 20mm flatbar to length.. I doubled the HP to 1hp on my small scope multi function machine and it made a big difference, 3hp is going to be interesting!

[@l0ht]

Man, you outgrown your lathe many projects ago. Awesome work.

[@johnathancorgan3994]

When you did not use a hacksaw to cut the steel plate, I felt a great disturbance in the force.

[@jaivenmayvis5811]

I'd Artisan Makes had a Patron with Blueprints to his Designs/Upgrades, I'd 110% be a happy and loyal customer ! I love everything he does.

[@retsetman9698]

4:49 For a moment I expected you to cut it with a hacksaw as usual lol

[@peterspencer6442]

he had us worried for a moment :o

[@mkosmo]

Just a thought - The three screws may have been intentional to avoid warping, since 3 points define a plane and the 4th may be over-constraining. Not sure if that applies here given all of the mating surface, though.

[@partyalldaypartyallnight1057]

Possibly. However similar type lathes have 4. Mine does. Seig type. Vevor model. Sometimes they are lazy at the factory. You'll have bosses that aren't drilled and tapped yet should be. Missing screws, metal shavings in the headstock, Sand in the headstock....etc..... Good ol Chi-nuh.

[@exelenc94]

10:17 first thing I saw was the cookie monster HAHA

[@mangamaniaciam]

Two things I learned from welding classes: #1- When welding two pieces of steel like you did, grind a groove into both sides before welding to make a more solid weld. #2- Flux spray EVERYTHING to be welded for the most reliable and strongest weld possible!😊

[@owenclark7210]

my god. that thing is a real beast now. I have one of these 7x12 mini lathes, but I have never considered going to this level of extreme. I don't think the 42" toolbox that I have my lathe bolted to would be able to handle that level of upgrade.

[@hepburn118]

You're a better machinist than a lot of fitter turners I've met over the years.

[@richardrockliff801]

LOL I thought putting 2HP on my Seig C6 was going to be overkill, however Im thinking of getting a 3HP one now to replace it and using the 2HP for my belt sander im building, thanks for all your videos I never miss one, as your are running pretty much the same kit I am.

[@haraldd.4910]

Funny, I did a similar modification to my minilathe a few years ago. I'm curios to learn how you will solve the upcomming problems.

[@nutwiss]

That's ominous! Tell us more!

[@mitchelllaughton9891]

I've got an old hafco al51 and the first thing I did was exactly this, a 3hp 3phase with a vfd, and I used two peices of 6mm flatbar under the lathe which made it easy to get the bed leveled. A lot more rigid than my old mini lathe and capable of far greater doc than would ever be done in practice. Had it taking 6mm doc in 6061! The ability to run more speed is nice which is great for the carbide I use, unfortunately not so great for vibrations due to my mounting

[@toddhazell925]

I've got the same lathe, would like to see that motor setup.

[@LitchKB]

Fair bit to discuss here. Firstly, I have a minilathe as well - maybe slightly bigger than yours (what would be considered a 7" lathe, but has more mass) - I run a 1.5kW 3ph motor - but I wire it in 415v mode ("Star " aka "Wye" configuration) on a single phase 240v VFD - I can tell it's the same as how I saw how you have wired yours, where the resulting power maybe ends up around half that, and this is more than enough to perform huge depth of cuts, but you're still in the "grey area" of snapping cast iron in half if you crash it. DO NOT WIRE IT IN DELTA CONFIGURATION - that would remove all doubt to causing permanent damage. Next, with VFDs, the lower the frequency, the higher the current draw - now you've wired it in star config - which is a good start as the coil resistance is increased, but you should be cautious of running the motor under 20Hz - there is a small risk of blowing up the VFD (recently happened in a FB group I'm a member of), but that risk is lowered due to the star config and 240v input. If you read the VFD manual - it should have a "Max current" setting - good to set to the max rated current on the motor's spec plate + 10%, and "Minimum RPM" (Set to 15-20Hz). Max RPM is typically 80Hz before 3ph motors begin being inefficient, but if you're finding yourself at 80Hz and wanting more - you should probably redesign primary the pulley ratio, or add pulley ratio options so it requires a belt change, 95% of your work should be within the 25-75Hz range without any belt change. Some other VFDs can also display "Alternative RPM" (by using a multiplier against the frequency) - so depending on your pulley setup, you can have it read out true spindle RPM instead of just the 3ph frequency. I never got around to doing this on mine and have come to know it intuitively, but might be beneficial to you if you get this set up before you end up getting used to it, like I have. With bigger depth of cuts, more RPM, more power - come more heat. It's time to invest in a "mist cooling system". They're $30 on eBay and need a 30psi air feed and (ideally) a source of semi-synthetic coolant mix (or plain water at minimum). It's either that, or you'll continue to burn out your carbide. I'm very much like you in that respect - just preferring to use carbide, never had HSS - but you'll find that has it's limits as well, so do yourself a favour and get a coolant setup going. Next, consider a diamond wheel setup where you can touch up your tools - a couple of 6" diamond wheels is $150 on eBay (600 grit, 120 grit), and makes for another decent project + learning curve to build the sharpening station and technique to use it, to optimise your lathe work. A properly freshened-up, mirror-finished brazed lathe tool is really something to behold. Love your work - as I continue my own journey somewhat in parallel to yours.

[@artisanmakes]

Cheers mate. For what its worth, the manual for the VFD states to use triangle/delta for the wiring and not to use wye. Doesn't look like I'll be going below 20hz for this motor, unless in reaming or threading. Already looking into a spray coolant, the work is really heating up with these cuts.

[@aaronfritz7234]

-All 3 phase motors are wired Delta even when you supply them with y like 120/208y. Delta is a phase to phase reference and y is a phase to ground reference. -amps will go up with load not frequency or cycles.

[@LitchKB]

Why is there always some nuffy contrarian who insists on posting unhelpful drivel.

[@patrickd9551]

@@LitchKB Because this HELPFUL drivel is actually correct.The voltage specified is 240/415, which means a single winding should not exceed 215V. Using delta on a star motor will result in too high currents and thus irrevocable damage. There is only ONE exception and nobody ever tried to explain it properly. Which is the case of single phase to three phase converters. The voltage between phases will become 230V instead of the normal 400V you would normally get from real three phase power.

[@LitchKB]

@@patrickd9551 out of context morons arguing points that were never made is unhelpful drivel. The spec plate will show the voltages and wiring configurations. Simple. That, in addition to using VFD current and power limits is how it's done. No on is telling anyone to wire the motor in delta with star voltages, so again you're just another nuffy arging with a point that was never made.

[@raelyndelmonte608]

The inhale i made when you pulled out that plate o' steel thinking you were about to hacksaw it.

[@peterspencer6442]

I still have mixed feelings :D

[@pauldevey8628]

Great vid. The most important part of this motor is the colour. The blue looks great!

[@aleccoldman5041]

I have just installed a 2hp 3 phase motor with a VFD on my Clarke CL430 lathe replacing the 3/4 hp single phase motor . I only used 2Hp because a used one came up on eBay with a quality KBAC inverter. It was a bit of a challange to get the motor to fit the existing adjuster plate and get it all lined up. It is now so much better to use with 170 to 1700rpm without swapping belts.

[@inthefreytoo]

Holy mackerel! This amazing upgrade is like putting a V-6 into your electric toothbrush! Daa-um! Great video!💪💪💪

[@freddyrosenberg9288]

Why is the pulley on the lathe shaft wobbling? That could damage bearings or give you uneven finish on the parts. Also, I noticed to provision for belt adjustment.

[@yankeedoodle7693]

nice work. I quit fighting my mini lathe and just went with a 10x22. the biggest headache ive had is putting it on a wooden workbench. everything else has been gravy.

[@SergeyKarpushev]

Have you changed the motor connection from star to delta ? You won't get full power with vfd without it. You need to turn 3 bars in the motor terminal block

[@artisanmakes]

Yes I did, almost forgot to but it is laid out in the vfd manual to use delta/triangle only

[@mrcpu9999]

@16:45 what is all the wobble coming from? Is there a bearing or something missing because you were just testing it?

[@artisanmakes]

Probably a bit of taper in the last cut, so it wasn’t sitting straight in the chuck. Nothing much to worry about

[@davidcureton9258]

Just saw your video.. I installed a 3hp (2.2kw) motor on my 10"x 20" lathe and I was wondering if I should use a smaller unit to save some space... then I see you have installed on a mini lathe. Anyway you can limit the power in the VFD and the bigger motor will have better low end torque so you will get the full power up to the limit in the VFD right down at low RPM.

[@nbprotocol5406]

To get slower speeds from a drill press you need to use the spindle of the drill press as a countershaft. I'm doing that, i got a central machinery 5 speed drill press and it has a 2/5 HP motor, better than 1/3 and not as good as 1/2. If you use the spindle as a countershaft then you can gear it down more and get more torque and slower speeds. The slow speed on the drill press is 760 but using the spindle as CS I get half that on the lathe. I had to take the spindle out and turn down the part where the chuck goes to 12 mm then I got a 17 tooth timing pulley with a 12mm bore, that is the same number of teeth as the lathe motor came with. The nice thing about that is that you can use the whole drill press head casting so it's all lined up. Then you just need to come up with a slide for the whole assembly for belt tension.

[@jjcc8379]

Be careful with the motor cooling while using VFD's . If you plan it to run a lot of time under ¿40 % - 30%? frequency the motor will burn after long sessions of use. The reason being the stock fan (mounted on the motor axis) is designed to keep it cool it at 100% frequency . Half the speed you around half the cooling (but not the heat ! it's more inefficient running it with an VFD!). For short sessions it should be okay. Or look for Forced Ventilation fan kits . Those have the fan with their own independent motor .

[@artisanmakes]

Its a 900 rpm motor, so its generally being run close to its normal speed. And for what it's worth, its not drawing a huge current, definitely no where close to 2kw. I had it running in today and for an hour or so in some 4140 and whist there is some heat being produced, its not close to being something i'd be concerned about.

[@-Gunnarsson-]

You can bolt a plate to the headstock. And connect it with a thick metal piece down to the table. It would be more sturdy and have less flex when turning harder steels.

[@artisanmakes]

I think the headstock was way too small to be bolting that much to it. In any event I don't think there was much left to come out of it, regardless of where the motor was bolted

[@spammusmaximus]

Captain! Hull integrity at 24%!

[@Lucas_sGarage]

Yes finally, i was asking for a 3phase motor for so long. Pd: i was expecting the hacksaw to cut that big bar

[@vaulthecreator]

I was expecting the same. Mildly disappointed actually.

[@ferrumignis]

@@vaulthecreator I'm very angry he didn't use the hacksaw, thinking about unsubscribing 🤣🤣

[@vaulthecreator]

@@ferrumignis 😆

[@bneben]

You need to change the motor wiring to delta. Check inside of the cover plate / manual. Star is for 415v 3ph. Your vfd only outputs 240v 3ph, which means you need the motor in the delta configuration. I'm currently doing the same upgrade, 2hp version of that motor.

[@artisanmakes]

Kinda difficult to see but I did change it to delta, around the 16:24 mark. cheers

[@garyconway439]

I’ll bet someone already suggested this, but would the reason for (3) mounting bolts/screws for the lathe head is for leveling purposes? Another observation- in industrial plants it is standard that motors on VFDs are specifically designed for VFDuse. One reason is there are currents that flow through the motor and bearings that cause the bearings to fail prematurely. But I imagine this is not be an issue for a home shop?

[@grippgoat]

Regarding only 3 screws in the head stock, could it be to avoid potentially warping it if the 4th point isn't perfectly planar?

[@artisanmakes]

Maybe but most non sieg brand mini lathes use 4 bolts in the same pattern I used

[@theflyingfish66]

Cracking me up that the motor is bigger than the headstock 😂

[@karansingh1154]

3:51 what benefits would a geared lathe provide?

[@MaggieKeizai]

That motor is Cookie Monster. I'm sitting here thinking how much it looks like Cookie Monster, and then here comes an Oscar the grouch mug on the screen suddenly, and it's like I'm on the set of Sesame Street.

[@sinisatrlin840]

16:10 Motor is factory wired for 400V in "star" configuration, you should rewire it to "triangle" for 240V operation. This way you will get 1/3 of power and torque increase. When AC motor is wired for 400V and it is getting only 240V it would overheat and burn out if loaded to max.

[@artisanmakes]

You can see in some later shots its wired for delta

[@tomthumb3085]

The reason only three attachments are supplied is to aid setting up the head alignment on a less than perfect bed casting. Four attachments will create stresses in the head casting and along the bed.

[@artisanmakes]

Could be but for what it’s with every non sieg mini lathe uses 4 screws and some of the replacement sieg headstocks come with 4 too

[@BIBTAP]

That new motor looked just like the Cookie Monster when he took it out of the box 🤣🤣

[@TheWeekendWoodshop]

Great upgrade! Can't wait to see the fancy new stuff you make in the future 😁

[@amjadmohmood6391]

This is like shoving a twin turbo v12 in a citroen 2cv. Amazing.

[@jfa3019]

Didn't read all the comments, so I'm not sure if someone already said this, but when running a VFD from single phase, you need to de-rate the VFD by 50%, so you need at least a 6hp VFD to run a 3 hp motor at full load on single phase

[@MrPatrik246]

For a 3 phase electric motor to run on 230v you need to connect it to Delta configuration, I guess you changed it up after all.

[@artisanmakes]

Yes I did, almost forgot to change it to but it is laid clearly out in the vfd manual

[@goboyz8016]

Great upgraded. Are you a concerned about the threads on the spindle side pully stripping off? I am thinking a counter bore insetting that retaining screw on the spindle to get more purchase on the threads on the back side spindle clamp would make sure it doesn't spin off in reverse or spin the threads when pushing it.

[@jonathan_mtb5837]

You have to check the temperature on low speeds because the motors cooling fan runs also low speed which often causes overheating

[@artisanmakes]

It’s not pulling a huge current, even at low speeds so it’s not producing a huge amount of heat. A few people had this concern but it isn’t an issue with this set up

[@chriselop9121]

Cables should be double insulated, either use 3 core flex (extension cord) or corrugated conduit. Also cable looks to be 1.5mm, would not have thought less than 2.5mm would do.

[@artisanmakes]

My bad on the first part but the cables are good for the current load

[@johncoops6897]

1.5mm is more than sufficient for 15A per phase.

[@RB-yq7qv]

Wow Bold move with the 3Hp. It's nice to have variable speed capability but safety must come first as this motor will put so much torque that the spindle and chuck may suffer. We would all like a lathe to cut deeper and faster but there are limits to all tooling and a 2mm cut for this type of lathe is very good. As machinist quality of manufacture should be our objective at the lost cost possible. Looking forward to your up coming builds,

[@rasmus1600]

16:30, i'd take a look at the wobble on the pulleys. That could end up bad if you're pushing the lathe and the motor puts too much torque on the spindle. Also those welds for the baseplate for the motor looks like an extra safety feature for over torque :D Also also, watch the temperature of the motor when using it at low speeds and pushing the motor. The VFD only changes the frequency, not the amps, so the motor will still use a lot of amps and with the low speed, the fan would have less effect because it's directly connected the the rotor. But great video and hope to see more niece upgrades for the mini lathe and mill.

[@artisanmakes]

The threads themselves are a little eccentric. There’s not much that I’ve ever been able to do about that. The heat ain’t much of an issue. We aren’t really using that much current to take the cuts, at least nowhere near the motors rating

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

The current drawn depends mainly on the mechanical load applied. The no-load current is very low, only overcoming friction in bearings and belt, plus any fan loading and windage. Available torque drops significantly at low speed, mainly because the frequency slippage (ratio of applied to actual) is limited- this reduces the current taken.

[@artisanmakes]

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Along the lines of this, I measured the current draw from the wall and it is rarely going over 1000w. All in all the heat is not so bad and very manageable

[@therealsourc3]

Next step - put stepper motors on the lead screws and turn it into a CNC lathe. There are some low cost GRBL control boards that you can run it with. If you don't wanna wire up the VFD you can have a servo motor controlling the knob directly xD

[@juanignaciocaino]

limiting factor on this mini lathes are the headstock bearing, spindle and casting size/thickness/intended duty and the bed/crosslide widths. Interesting experiment nontheless.

[@davers1610]

The three cap heads may have been for three points contact to account for any rock in the head machining. May be worth checking if you twist the headstock when tightening the 4th. Only a theory.

[@artisanmakes]

Maybe but for what it’s worth the non sieg brand mini lathes use 4 screws

[@davers1610]

@@artisanmakes fair enough. Only a thought. Love the videos by the way. Though your new motor makes my 13" swings 1200w feel really inadequate... 🤣

[@techshedlington3106]

Your mind is out of control.... BUT I LOVE IT 🤣👏🏻💪

[@patrickdarcy3863]

Hi, did you find that the belt connection direct to the spindle pulled the spindle? Thanks Patrick

[@Flying0Dismount]

Looks like you should rebuild that drill press with the old motor instead of trying to drill thick steel plate with a hand drill...

[@artisanmakes]

It’s in the works but I just haven’t had the time to get around to do that. Plus the old big v belt got burnt up last year so I’ll have to order a new one

[@tomk3732]

Large motor is nice for torque at low speeds when mated to VFD but I hope no one will try to take heavy cut to max out the motor at higher speed - there is a good chance to break something & lathe will flex a lot.

[@RANDOMNATION907]

That's pretty neat. It will be interesting to see if you can resist the urge to push the lathe til something fails. Hopefully not. I almost bought a used chY-knees mini-lathe that had a motor upgrade done to it. The seller was selling it without the motor for only $100 usd. Everything else seemed to all be there. I inspected it carefully and noticed that the bed had a slight twist in it. I assume it had a sudden stop/bind that did it in. Just be aware. Good luck.

[@incubatork]

I have made keyways using a drill bit or milling cutter first to take out the majority of the metal then you just have the corners to take out by hand file or by using the mill quil that for me is much sturdier than the lathe carriage if you can lock the spindle.

[@DavidRavenMoon]

How do you adjust belt tension? Also please peel that clear film off the lathe name plate!

[@kylelaw7210]

What are your thoughts on using a treadmill motor? It should already have speed control built in.

[@artisanmakes]

Many people have used treadmill motors. They seem to work

[@stephenfrench4417]

do you think the headstock bearings might need upgrading I often find the standard ones cause some issues when taking deeper cuts on larger diameter material mostly chatter in the cutting tool and in bad cases even tool deflection I've ben seeking a way to upgrade motors for these lathes a long time

[@artisanmakes]

The bearings are already tapered rollers so I don’t think there is much else to upgrade

[@xyzero1682]

Soon you can fabricate a better bigger lathe then what you bought! Great stuff.

[@kepamurray1845]

When I seen that bit of plate I thought holy crap! And then you said that you were going to cut it down to size. 🤣 Then I thought, how on earth is he going to cut THAT? That's a gutsy effort cutting a bit of 20mm plate with an Ozito 4" angle grinder. Then you backed it up and did it again. GO YOU LITTLE AUSSIE CHAMPION! Have you thought about putting a recess in the spindle pulley so the nut gets a little more purchase on the threads? I know you are probably going to anyway. You really should have double insulated wiring for the motor. Because safety. And some proper start stop switches with a magneticly latched E-stop. That thing has decent power now. Will be good to see what can be done with that machine. Nice one.

[@Smallathe]

Very cool upgrade. I have the same issue with my lathe. I plan on using a sewing maching adjustable speed motor - and yes, motors prices have gone through the roof!

[@charlesfields7908]

Man that there is awesome. Over here in the u.s we use commercial sewing machine motors. Most of them come with a variable speed controller and produce a insane amount of torque and be 3× smaller than the 3hp motor you used. The range on most of the sewing machine motor is 100 rpm up to 4000 rpm. Even though small chucks aren't rated for more than 2500 rpm max 😂. Glad to see the upgrade though man. You may or may not be familiar with the guy, but his name is ade. His channel is Ades workshop. That guy is super smart with mini lathes as well. Might be worth your time looking into his channel and gain more knowledge or ideas for your shop.

[@keithammleter3824]

I would not have thought a sewing machine motor was suitable. They are series-connected universal motors, which means their RPM is inversely proportional to torque. This means the chuck rpm will vary a lot depending on depth of cut, turning radius, etc. Also, they are not designed to work full load for any length of time - that's why they can be so small. A lathe will make the motor work CONSIDERABLY harder than a sewing machine will.

[@charlesfields7908]

@@keithammleter3824 have you looked at the power of a commercial sewing machine motor? The materials those thing have to push a needle through, there's no stopping that thing nor slowing it down. For a mini lathe, there almost perfect match.

[@artisanmakes]

Ive seen a few people attach them. From memory servo motors no? I looked into it a while a back but went with the 3 phase.

[@charlesfields7908]

@@artisanmakes yes that's what they call them servo motors. That's cool part about mini lathes you can use just about any motor to run them as long as it makes decent torque.

[@TinkerLynx]

Also called consew motors, I have a 1hp one on my lathe with a small 4 rib belt, has a serous crash a few months ago, and it smoked the belt instead of stalling the motor.

[@adam03957]

I’m curious, maybe I missed it but did you make a spacer to stop the pulley rubbing straight on the motor housing or was there a step on the shaft?

[@artisanmakes]

No there is a step on the shaft

[@paulwestaway357]

Cool and everything but no hack saw for 20 mm plate?

[@boltonky]

I was always told to go about 10% over on VFD's and more on chinese ones but i take it you have a good supply to your house/garage so its probably not a big deal (Also worth checking how balanced the lines are into the motor underload cause they can burn out quicker similar to running them off rotary phase converters)... Only real word of advise i can give for having that much power is having a safety guard and the use of steady rests etc because if a piece slips out it will do real damage ( I have a hercus 9" i had this upgrade on but went back to smaller motor when i brought a big 7hp turret lathe..both will kill without a 2nd thought) Awesome work and keep it up :)

[@artisanmakes]

That’s very interesting. Never head that, I might have to look into that. Cheers

[@misterdeedeedee]

is there any sort of analog input for the vfd to control the speed? it would be super cool to use a dro scale and arduino to be able to set the vfd to run the motor at a constant surface speed when taking face cuts based on the position of the scale, kinda like how the giant industrial cncs work.

[@brandontscheschlog]

Very cool! I’ve been waiting for someone to do this!

[@kingofcastlechaos]

Have you tried segmented belts on your machines? They make a WORLD of difference, and as a bonus, you can make any size you need.

[@МарияОлехнович-м2д]

Does your Vevor VFD give 3ph 380V or 220V? If 220V (as I s'pose), it's better to re-wire the motor to the triangle to have all three HP you've bought.

[@artisanmakes]

you're correct, 220 3 phase output. Kinda difficult to see but I did change it to delta, around the 16:24 mark. cheers

[@МарияОлехнович-м2д]

@@artisanmakes Thanks to point me out! Now I see. Cheers!

[@chrislatrkin]

you can run a vfd on single phase as well

[@BEDavisBrown]

I've only watched videos of mini lathes being used so what part of the lathe would be the next weakest point of failure the cross slide or some other point and is the 2mm cut the deepest you can make?

[@artisanmakes]

Probably the overall mass of the carriage. It’s quite light and not exactly rigid. Although it’s unlikely that I’ll replace it. And I’ve gotten 4mm doc in steel

[@backwardsmachining7526]

Drill and threading is where you will notice most of the difference in power. My logan was upgraded to a 3hp and it's still under powered. The variable tyranny takes a lot of power. I tried threading a 2 inch od part and it was bogging right down.

[@mrechbreger]

which belt do you use for the new motor? I still need to upgrade the belt of my lathe because it's slipping too much. I have a 1.5hp motor attached but it's worthless due to the bad belt.

[@elvinhaak]

Nice! Where did you get it and about how much does it cost? I have my lathe stop soo many times and still on the second motor but how long it will take to fail motor or board on slower speeds. Does you VFD also provide running the lathe in reverse?

[@artisanmakes]

All sourced through eBay, except the belt which I bought from the auto parts store. And the plate which I bought from my metal store, edcon steel. In total it was about $500. And yes the vfd is capable of reversing the motor

[@elvinhaak]

@@artisanmakes Nice! Still a high price compared to the original price of the lathe but with all the changes combined this machine is a beast for the size! Looking forward to the next video!

[@artisanmakes]

Yeah for sure. This isn't really an upgrade that i'd recommend, I just wanted to see what would happen if I shoved the most powerful motor that I could find on that lathe.

[@grahammctygue724]

Have you seen variable switch for router tool your discount store has them for up to 15amp happy for you Ppeace

[@canoaslan1011]

Dunno if you realized by now, but your chuck is allover the joint, if I can see it thru a camera, if you were to mesure the runout. and the part you made to keep motors wheel in place, and the pulley that the belt goes on to on your lathe, they are turning all over the place like your chuck

[@artisanmakes]

That is not the chick, that's the spindle's outer surface and the factory never bothered to grind it concentric with the spindle nose. Run out of the actual spindle nose is less than 0.01mm

[@matthewkenchapman]

I might be a bit late to the party, but where did you get the motor from? I have a spare vfd laying around and want to do this to my drill press, all the motors I can find seem to be $600aud+ at which point I might as well get a servo motor and driver (which is what powers my lathe)

[@artisanmakes]

EBay is my go to and it is where I bought the motor

[@caswal]

The ways in my mini lathe are awfully unparallel top to bottom surfaces. About 0.2mm change in thickness across the length of the bed. Just wondering what yours it like? Or whether you have had to address it?

[@artisanmakes]

There is some wear on my ways, mostly nearer to the chuck but not as much as 0.2mm

[@JustinTopp]

That’s the same size motor as my 13”x28” southbend! And the same exact vfd. Benefit of the bigger lathe and gearing is rigidity and depth of cut. Biggest cut I’ve taken is .300” /7.6mm. Only because I ran out of cutting edge on my tool

[@christiantrab6160]

I love the idea, and I always see your videoes, keep up the good work! When it comes to motors, you should look more at torque than HP, but it is very common also amongst car and motorcycle enthutiast, that the relation between torque and hp is misunderstodd or forgotten. Torque can be stationary, torque does not say anything about movement. HP is both torque and movement in the same designation. That means that hp is both torque and rpm in the same designation, where torque is only a force. To compare motors, you need to know both the hp, torque and the rpm, because on the lathe you will gear it to suit the rpm with pulleys. You have chosen a 900 rpm 3 hp motor, that motor have 22,5 Nm of torque and comes in a 112 frame - no wonder you think it is big, it has the same torque and frame size as a 9 hp motor that runs 2800 rpm. That is a lot of motor for that lathe 🙂 All that said, I have 4kw 27 NM 1400 rpm motor waiting for my 13" lathe, just like you, I don´t want to fiddle with belt and pulley change. I don´t know if I can post links, but here is an easy chart, where you can compare motors. www.seipee.it/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Motori-Standard_JM_GDM.pdf

[@timgrenville-cleave2848]

G'day! I'm thinking about a similar upgrade but to a larger wood lathe. I realise that I'm asking a very open question, however, could you give me an idea of the Min and Max speed. Just a ballpark figure if possible. As standard my machine can run 50 - 3700 rpm over 3 ranges.Thanks in advance.

[@belatoth3763]

This motor looks like the Cookie Monster himself!

[@adsa3381]

I'd like to know how much $ and time you have spent on the mini lathe with all the upgrades

[@kevinlopez5707]

what ratio did you use for your pully set up? looks pretty close to a 2:1? trying to do the same thing just trying to figure what ratio i should go with

[@artisanmakes]

This one here is 1:1 roughly. It is a 1200rpm motor so that makes sense for what I need from it. If it was 1800 or 2400 I might have given it a reduction.

[@iancraig1951]

I liked that 3 phase vevor converter

[@davidtaylor6870]

Great job that upgrade. Did you use 415v 3phase motor, with a 240v VFD? Thanks

[@artisanmakes]

This model can be used with either 220 or 415v. But I’m running it on 220 v

[@josephweaver7140]

That motor has wires coming out of it's eyes!!!

[@teropiispala2576]

You seem to be doing exactly same steps I did with my lathe. It's bigger and came with 1.1kw motor. Next phase would be to make variable transmission which uses scooter belt. It's quite simple since ratio is manually adjustable. It provides much better stability and torque on low rpm's. It have clear influence on surface quality. By the way, in your setup, you must add separate cooler for your motor. Otherwise you burn it with low rpm.

[@paulhelman2376]

how are you going to use back gears or power the lead screw?

[@Rob_65]

Yes, a bigger motor is definitely an improvement but I see this more as a way to get a more stable speed than doing heavy cuts. With a big motor, you risk damaging your spindle bearings, shearing off the compound slide (that you luckily already removed) or even twisting the bed. My Wabeco D4000 mini lathe has a 1.4 kW motor which is what it comes with from the factory and I think this is still on the small side since the spindle speed varies quite a bit - especially on the start of a cut.