I Finally Bought A New Lathe - Hafco Al 250G

[@j.dietrich]

A tip for anyone who needs to move pallets over grass: if you lay a ladder on the ground and grease up the stiles, you can easily slide a several hundred kilo pallet across it by hand. With two ladders, you can build a kind of crude railway, sliding the pallet from one to the other in a leapfrog fashion.

[@sophakpeth4346]

Thanks for sharing that

[@gutsngorrrr]

Yep, that certainly works and works well.

[@Tympan]

Awesome tip! Thanks a lot.

[@dieSpinnt]

Great Tip! As grease you can use soft soap [1] ... if you want to reuse your ladder or wooden beams:) [1] potassium soaps, "green soap", in German "Schmierseife", I am not sure if "soft soap" is the correct term, as it seems it is also used for hand-washing soaps and the like. I mean the soap with a very viscous consistency, often used to grease rubber when mounting car-windows f.e.

[@osgeld]

@@dieSpinnt yea, I have used "dish soap for cleaning eating and cookware" before, not on a ladder but just some boards acting as runners, most of it is harmless to yards and washes off easily enough with a hose. Fun side note for lawncare, there was a fad of "liquid aeration" a few years ago... it was a very mild dish soap in a hose end spray bottle

[@fakerfake1]

It’s so awesome getting to watch you grow in your machining capabilities! I remember starting out I had a little grizzly lathe and an angle grinder in my parents garage, and now I’ve got 4 full size manual lathes, 2 CNC lathes, 3 manual mills, 4 CNC mills (one of which is horizontal), several surface grinders, heat treat equipment, and much more. It’s just so cool watching others get to expand their machines and abilities as well.

[@onsecondthought4174]

Yeah sure you do. And I have a bridge for sale, 2 high rises, and a donut stand. Maybe some people will believe your BS but I can spot BS a mile away.

[@sasukecruz2000]

dude that’s awesome! how did you expand your machine collection?

[@fakerfake1]

@@sasukecruz2000 Hey, thanks man! And thanks for asking! I started machining in high-school with my little grizzly lathe, then joined the military. When I got out, there was a few months where I just didn’t know what the next step was, so I just started messing around with making guns on my mini lathe. A neighbor saw me and offered me a position as an aerospace machinist for the company he was working at, so I did that for about 2 years and learned a ton. The company got bought out, and they decided to outsource machining and sell a bunch of equipment for relatively cheap. So I scrambled on the opportunity, got a loan, bought the equipment and made a bid to be their outsource company. Did that for about 4 years, and made enough to purchase a shop (instead of renting) and buy several more pieces of equipment. Then the company I was doing the work for went under, so I switched to gunsmithing, and I’ve done that for over a decade. I’m very lucky with how it all happened, I was at the right place at the right time and was also willing to take on a huge risk. I know most people aren’t going to expand as rapidly as I did, but I still get excited when other people get to purchase equipment that expands their capabilities.

[@arthurmoore9488]

@@fakerfake1 That's an awesome story. It sounds like a big risk, but at the same time you had a major opportunity you were able to take advantage of. I'm glad it worked out for you. Not surprised the company went under, given they decided to outsource their machining to the person they just fired. Not that using you was bad, in fact it was probably the best deal they could have gotten. Rather their costs went up, and control went down. If you hadn't stepped in, then they'd be working with a brand new manufacturer who didn't have that personal relationship and knowledge.

[@gvet47]

It did seem to be a lot noisier than what I would have expected. Yes it needs a quick change tool oost and DRO. I'd love to have an upgraded size.

[@randyshoquist7726]

Turning between centers can be a very useful method. You don't need to switch the chuck out for the faceplate and M4 center. Just put a piece of round stock in the chuck and turn a 60° point, and drive the dog with a chuck jaw. I keep such a shop made center and give it a skim cut to true it up every time I use it, so it's always perfect. I made a parallel clamp style dog that fits anything from tiny to about 70mm so I don't need a whole set of dogs.

[@gangleweed]

Yeah, I do the same, been doing that since my apprenticeship days in the 50's.

[@merlinpearson4360]

that intro had such This Old Tony energy, I love it

[@hillonwheels8838]

The paint on the gear was probably used to check gear mesh. I used paint to check the mesh on the ring and pinion on my truck when I rebuilt it. I want this lathe and will be getting one once I get my shop set up. Looks to be easier to set up and get going then the mini lathe which works for me. Looking forward to seeing you useing this to make some cool stuff.

[@campbellmorrison8540]

I too used to have a mini lathe and it drove me crazy due to almost everything I wanted to do would fit and required so much mucking around to complete anything. I then purchased an old Emco V10p which is a similar size to yours and my life has changed. I was so impressed I then went out and bought a separate mill and that was pure luxury. I'll bet you wont regret your new lathe

[@davidbillington9654]

Nice purchase and hardened ways this time. There was a multi part article by a guy that had bought a Chinese gear head lathe much like this new one in Model Engineer or similar and he detailed the stripping fettling and re-assembly. He was impressed by the quality and accuracy of the machining but not the assembly, likening the assemblers to monkeys IIRC. One main thing he brought up and I've seen it elsewhere as well, there was still casting sand in the headstock which he thoroughly removed and repainted with oil resistant paint inside. No magnets are going to do anything about loose sand in the headstock if any were to break free.

[@sharkienado]

these beds while induction hardened are actually still just soft enough to scrape, the standard Sandvik scraper inserts hold up better than my Biax blades but you simply need to lap your blades more frequently. the fitting work on these al-250's specifically is hit and miss, one of my students who did a fantastic job scraping in his lathe found the leadscrew support bracket was so severely undersize that engaging the half nuts would cause the motor to fail. hafco replaced the motor under warranty at least twice from memory but when shown the root issue they simply swapped brackets with those on the showroom floor/their stock until they found a slightly thicker bracket. upon measuring it back at the shop it still needed a fairly thick brass shim to get it perfect.

[@MichaelKJohnson]

Consider some neodymium magnets in the gear sump to catch chips. It doesn't take much to take out the spindle bearings. If you have a oil drip channel going to the bearings put a few very small magnets in it.

[@jtbrower]

Unfortunately magnetism is a property that requires it be applied to a primarily (roughly 50% or greater) ferrous metal such as steel or cast iron. It will do nothing for Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Copper, Brass, Titanium or Plastics and it goes without saying Wood. There are plenty of industrial environments where steel may be the only metal turned, but the chips flying off those machines would bury a magnet in a heart beat. That leaves hobby machinist and general purpose machinist who will find theirselves turning any or all Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Copper, Brass, Titanium and Plastics on a regular basis. I could be wrong, but I envision magnets being buried in fragments of the aforementioned materials further reducing their capacity to attract chips from turning ferrous metals. If the magnets actually do pickup the primary ferrous chips, it may not be worth its presence. There is another interesting physical property of steel one might consider. If excessive heat is generated during turning operations (common of us hobby machinist when long spiral pieces of steel grow from having less than ideal cutting tools, tool selection, turning speed, or tool to workpiece alignment, as the temperature continues to rise closer to its critical point it will lose its magnetic attractability until the spirals coil down and have landed. Then again, I doubt this is such a concern, if these chips are lucky enough to land on top of the magnet, they will hold once you come to clean it off. More of an issue is having a magnet with a large enough surface area to attract chips from the all of the places turning typically slings them. I like to use a magnetic roller to clean my garage floor, but also dont enjoy trying to fight the magnet which wont let go of its catch when I want it on the trash. If you agree the above to be true in your universe of turning, you are going to have to employ methods typically used by a professional machinist; brushes, compressed air and etc. I have an industrial vacuum mounted to my wall that makes cleaning everything in my garage effortless. Well, only if I didn’t get carried away with using coolant or oil. That said, you’re thinking outside the box. We just need a new type of magnet!

[@MichaelKJohnson]

@@jtbrower what do you imagine the gears in there are made of? This is to catch bits of the lathe, typically tiny flakes from the gears. If swarf gets in there you have much larger problems.

[@ImolaS3]

15 years after selling my old Colchester Student, i went a similar route, small lathe very much like your old one, kept working on it to overcome limitations and finally realised a new, larger lathe was called for. Much the same as yours but with DRO and variable drive (actually the same lathe as Blonihacks uses). never regretted it!! I have a Sanou 160mm 6 jaw chuck with around 10-micron runout on a gauge pin - i tapped it in with DTI and soft blow mallet with the huk mount nuts just tight. Be interested to see the runout on yours after tapping in and the cleaning

[@Bloodray19]

I love how you over time, slowly shifted your style of content to be similar to This Old Tony, but you manage to deliver those dry, dad jokes the same amazing way, as Tony does. And in the mean time you retain your own charisma, that makes me love your videos

[@doingstufforatleasttrying4843]

Great video, I cried when you cut those wires to the safety switch. I would have loosened both terminals and moved the one wire to the other and tightened the screws again and put it back in. BASICALLY BOTH WIRES ON 1 TERMINAL.This way if you needed to return it back it would only take a few seconds and nothing gets cut. I’m sorry, it’s my OCD KICKING IN. GREAT VIDEO.ENJOY THE NEW TOY.

[@Kineth1]

My thoughts exactly. I always prefer to make any modifications reversible.

[@ddexter8723]

Yeah I had the same reaction plus you can return it to factory if needed

[@melgross]

Me too. It’s a problem with a deliberate disregard for safety.

[@simonharris8817]

​@@melgrossA deliberate disregard for safety? No offense meant but hes an adult he can make his own arrangments around safety.

[@melgross]

@@simonharris8817 well, good luck to you. The reason why we have safety rules is because people are bad at “making their own arrangements around safety.”

[@MrBricks148]

So glad you bought this, I've been mulling over this purchase for weeks and you've really helped. Thanks!

[@mv2442]

I love the way this channel is moving forward, have been watching (on and off to be honest) since you bought that little bugger lathe, then came the mill, and soo on. Over those years I have bought different equipment for my shop, I am in Europe soo most off it was big used old stuff, but I still found these videos helpful. Keep up the good work!

[@aceroadholder2185]

As Mike suggested, run the lathe in as directed in the manual. Then change the headstock oil and drop in a magnet or two to collect swarf. Make sure the headstock lubrication system is working as it is supposed to. The main reason small lathes have variable spindle speeds is because they are cheaper to build. Look in an old text like "Advanced Machine Work" (which is available on-line) and it gives formulas for generating the intermediate spindle speeds given the lowest and highest speeds desired. It is a logarithmic progression. The only people who have a need to have the "absolute best" speeds and feeds are tooling and production engineers who are making a quarter-million part run where every second counts and tooling costs must be minimized. In the home shop you have the time to make several lighter cuts and save your tooling and wear on your lathe. Oil is the elixir of life to your lathe. Clean and wet the bed ways with way oil (or chain saw bar oil which is also sticky and won't run off ways and gears) every day you use the lathe. If the ways look dry... they are. Stop and reach over for the oil can. Often omitted from the lube charts is the worm gear for the carriage power feed. Disconnect the power from the lathe and feel under the bottom backside of the carriage for the worm. Make sure it is clean and then smear it liberally with grease. If the lathe power feed is used daily, lube the worm monthly. Normal hobby use, lube once every six months.

[@arthurmoore9488]

Hey, thanks for the information. I recently purchased my first lathe and am dealing with rust and other fun things from the previous owner. So, knowing how to keep from having to do this much work again is really helpful. Though re-building the thing is teaching me quite a bit...

[@n.b.p.davenport7066]

Does that thing sound exceptionally loud?

[@Ozsmallbore]

@@n.b.p.davenport7066 No

[@TheRecreationalMachinist]

As a mini lathe user myself, I'll watch your progress with the new machine with interest. Looks to be much more substantial, yet still small enough for the small workshop 👍 🇬🇧

[@nbrworks]

Great to see the new lathe. Regarding the leadscrew: the keyway is for power feeding in both axis and the threads are used only for threading. (If you want to have a look, I have a video showing the internals of a similar gearbox).

[@artisanmakes]

Then I’d have to wonder what the worm of for, because I can feel it engaging

[@nbrworks]

The worm rides on the leadscrew (constantly). What you feel engaging should be a gear in the apron. Have a look at my gearbox 😊

[@artisanmakes]

Just watched and it’s a great break down. I’ll have so open mine up and see if it’s similar. Still doesn’t explain the third worm wheel. I know for sure that’s not driven by the keyway

[@nbrworks]

@@artisanmakes humm, maybe have a look in the manual, the response might be there!

[@artisanmakes]

The manual is a bit vague. Ill have to find out once I find the time to get the apron pulled apart

[@SlotspeedDigital]

Mate, compared to most of the machining videos on youtube, yours are really good and no BS. Coming from a qualified machinist.

[@trevorpom]

The blue paint on the back of the scroll is to check backlash. It doesn't hurt the gearing in any way. It's common to see this in differential gears in cars too for the same reason..

[@RobertLBarnard]

Excellent points about an old-school geared head vs new-fangled variable DC motor. Regarding the head "loosening up a little bit", the manufacturer recommended running under no load for 20 minutes. I did that in both directions; 20 minutes each way. But mine's a new-fangled variable DC.

[@jjcc8379]

I didn't expect it so soon either :o . Or the last video. Kudos and cheers on the future projects you'll be able to do !

[@6NBERLS]

Hopefully, you will be able to get a four jaw chuck and maybe a collet chuck.

[@sparkiekosten5902]

With the chuck using three bolts try moving the chuck into 3 different positions rotating the chuck. Also when you find the best setting try backing of the nuts a little and tapping the chuck in as good as you can. If you are happy with the chuck and it is running as true as you can get don't forget to centre punch the chuck to the back plate so you will always know the best position when removing and reconnecting the chuck! You probably know this already but it saves a lot of headaches. numbering the jaws to their slots on the chuck will help with removing and reinserting them as well! Enjoy the clean lathe because it will be the last time it is that clean!

[@ThantiK]

Honestly I'd check out one of the electronic lead screw packages from some of the other youtubers. Being able to set things like stops, metric/imperial threading through a couple of button presses, is extremely powerful.

[@artisanmakes]

If I didn't have the gearbox I would

[@paulypaulypauly8011]

@@artisanmakes You still can - I did on my al250 and it’s great! It was a lot of work of course but the end result has been one hell of an upgrade! Thanks.

[@artisanmakes]

Sure but is it really necessary?

[@RedDogForge]

@@artisanmakes hes not wrong and its one of those type of improvements thatll have you woondering how the heck you ever lived without it.

[@artisanmakes]

Yeah but I already have the gearbox to the lead screw. I don’t see why you’d need to add the ELS

[@warbirdwf]

Wow, congratulations on your new lathe! What a step up in capabilities vs. the mini-lathe. You have to still have respect for the little lathe too. It really treated you well even with it's limitations. I'm looking forward to what you make on this new lathe in your upcoming videos!

[@Chromevulcan]

I love seeing people increase the size of their machinery. I learned my lesson with aquariums, the bigger, the better. So my first lathe, and likely the last, is a Pratt & Whitney 16x30 with a 7.5 Hp motor!

[@julias-shed]

DRO was the best upgrade I did for my lathe after a QCTP speeds up lot. 😀 nice to have a brand new lathe.

[@AERuffy]

You didnt need to cut and solder the wires for that switch, just move one over and it would have completed the circuit, or put both terminals on one screw.

[@artisanmakes]

Yeah. I dunno when your in the moment and the camera is rolling sometimes you gloss over the small stuff.

[@DodgyBrothersEngineering]

I was thinking the exact same thing, but then being in front of the camera I can also understand artisanmakes blonde moment too.

[@graealex]

​​@@artisanmakesnot only was it unnecessary because you could have just moved one terminal, but soldering and then tape is by far the crappiest (and least reliable) method. Solder is generally a bad idea anywhere near vibrations. Another option are screw terminals, but then you need wire ferrules. Which brings us to simply using WAGOs.

[@artisanmakes]

yeah I know

[@graealex]

@@artisanmakes You'll remember me in five years when the solder joint breaks and the glue on the tape will have turned back into dinosaur juice

[@martinchabot_FR]

I got for years a BV20 lathe (8x15), with a gear head. I changed all the spindle and gearbox bearings and it changed it completely. Runout down to 0.002 from 0.01 (SKF standard taper roller), and originally the lathe was with angular bearing. It was meant to be mounted with either angular or taper, went for taper instead. You can probably cut imperial thread by modifying the gear box input with a 127 gear somewhere, same for changing the thread list. Since the rebuild, I got myself a 1 ton lathe, 360x610 from 1950/60. definitely another level.

[@artisanmakes]

Yeah for sure, I’m sure there is a ratio that I could find using a 57 or 127 tooth gear. Fingers crossed I can avoid having to :)

[@Horus9339]

I cannot think of anyone that is more deserving, well done Sir and I look forwards to the upgrades and the new parts/tools you will be fabricating.

[@Rockport1911]

Its like in cars, you repair, tune optimize your old junker to its full potential, but just a week later you trade it in for the new ride you should have gotten in the first place. The old lathe did great, I really enjoyed watching you do all the improvements on it :)

[@DavidHerscher]

A gear head in that size!? That’s freaking awesome! Congrats, you are gonna love that gear head.

[@classicbandgeek]

I like that your videos are crossing into This Old Tony territory

[@G58]

I find the best cheapest way to degrease and clean parts like that chuck, is to strip it completely, warm all the parts up in the oven, then drown them in a strong mix of boiling water and washing up liquid, and scrub with a cheap paint brush. Rinse in more boiling water, then dry in a warm place (oven again if necessary). Next you can use a degreaser such as brake cleaner etc. This method works on everything from engines to guns. The gearbox may need doing too. Good luck with your new lathe. Now I’m a bit jealous. Oh, as others have said, magnets, deeper splash tray, refit the rear splash guard with an opalescent Perspex light panel (with variable LEDs behind) to illuminate your chuck/work area. Peace

[@rowandunn2403]

I just picked up a Lodge and Shipley AVS 2013 lathe a week or two ago and I just got it into my shop today. I have a Monarch 10ee and a Clausing 4913. I love my Monarch and Clausing but I get needing something bigger, that's why my new L&S is a 20-1/2" swing with 54" between centers 😁. My machine shop has ceased to be a hobby and is now my near full time employment. Keep up the great work I love the videos seeing you squeeze every last bit of efficiency of those small lathes and making super professional parts is always cool.

[@steveflorey8663]

Thankyou Artisan. I have a Seig Micro lathe and needed to upgrade to something bigger. I got it cheap at the time and wanted something to hold clock barrel's because I only had a watch making lathe. I've not been too crazy about some of the Chinese lathes due to the low quality and therefore accuracy that you get. I have been considering getting a Myford lathe as they come up on Gumtree from time to time. Seeing your new lathe now has me rethinking which way to go, as I like doing things for motorbikes as well. Really enjoy watching your channel and look forward to the next episode.😁

[@marthinwurer]

I'm kinda sad that you're giving up the old lathe. It was a joy watching you come up with new ingenious ways to eke out more performance from it and get it to do things it was never meant to do. I hope we get to see you make more improvements to this new lathe too!

[@arthurmoore9488]

Same. I now that's what brought me to the channel, and helped convince me to get my lathe.

[@akaHarvesteR]

If he continues upgrading this one to the extent he did the other, pretty soon he'll be turning train wheels.

[@miningsimple1924]

Congratulations!! On the new lathe

[@allanb1778]

congrats on the new lathe. I took the plunge 2 yrs ago and got a new AL336D. great unit

[@BSMikkel]

Congratulations on the new lathe. Looking forward to follow this step up (I'm coming from a Vevor MX210V wich has been a dissap...a challenge so far). However I had semi-good experience with their costumer service, which was a surprise.

[@Bob_Adkins]

Congratulations on your purchase! Looks like a *solid* little lathe!

[@MultigrainKevinOs]

Congrats buddy! Those darn mini lathes are a gateway drug. Looking forward to your projects with this extra pep to really flex your skills.

[@freenautilus1]

Haha, you made my day (2:19) I wish you a long time happiness with the new lathe!

[@Zt3v3]

Looks like a sweet upgrade. The QC gearbox makes getting a nice finish so much easier.

[@gerardbouter3486]

When you see a thumbnail end get happy you know it's a good channel... great you have a new lathe dude! Greetings from the Netherlands.

[@subuser9627]

Finally a bigger lathe, but please change the oil. You already saw the condition of the chuck. Also give all oil points a good service.

[@Oldtanktapper]

Recently got myself a Hafco AL51g lathe, the model down from this one. Not a bad little unit, but I took a bit of advice and stripped down the carriage. There was an astonishing amount of crap and grinding residue still inside, and I also stripped down the 3 jaw chuck and got a fair bit of swarf out of that. Sure they’re not all that bad, but worth checking out for future longevity.

[@bruceyork5260]

I’m looking at buying the AL51G Lathe, have you had your for awhile and are you happy with it?

[@Oldtanktapper]

@@bruceyork5260 had mine for a couple of months now, it’s my first lathe that I’m learning machining on. Pretty happy with it but like a lot of these smaller units rigidity is an issue. I’ve upgraded the compound mount / clamp down to one with 4 bolts not 2, seems to help a bit. Some people upgrade the headstock bearings too, I might have a go at that sometime. Overall I’d say it’s a capable machine but you’ve got to be working within its limitations.

[@SimjetAU]

Great to see the upgrade. Love watching your grass roots approach and the amount of work you do by hand. I have had my HF AL-330 for 25 years and I recently fitted a DRO to it...I should have done that 20 years ago. Best thing I have ever done to it. I too recently upgraded my motor to a 3 phase but used a inverter so I have speed control plus the gearbox this has also made a great difference. The next upgrade is I have here the Clough 42 electronic leadscrew here which I will fit. The only thing I hate about the lathe is the threading side of the gearing and steps. Love your channel and look forward to many more great videos

[@graemetho9805]

Is that the Mark Kyle, just up the road from me (several streets and a creek), that used to live across from the Wooloowin state school?

[@SimjetAU]

@@graemetho9805 yes it is

[@graemetho9805]

@@SimjetAU It's a small world, do you watch Mark Presling if so, the Ronald D Sivyer that he named his bridge after was my next-door neighbour back at Gordon Park

[@russellwall1964]

I am certain you will LOVE all the features! I also just upgraded from my SIEG C3 to one from Little Machine Shop (7550 Deluxe) and it is a whole different world.

[@vincei4252]

Congrats on the new machine!

[@neffk]

Nice. The 10x20 size lathe feels like the transition between hobby and a "real" machine. My lathe is similar but older vintage. I recently scraped the cross slide and tightly fitted gib. When you get tired of making things, you can level up by "taking your lathe to bits" and investing 80 hours in scraping and making gages, and re-fitting the cross slide. But hopefully you'll finish lots of projects before you embark on this side quest.

[@andrewdoherty8847]

I had one of this sort of lathe decades ago. I put a 1/2" (12mm) piece of metal under the left end so that coolant will flow away to the right for recycling. I also made a chuck cradle out of scrap timber to aid on/off. On another matter, I put a dab of grease on the tailstock centre to reduce heat stretch problems.

[@tonywilson4713]

*You should reference Stefan Gotteswinters vids on stripping down brand new low cost chucks and how to improve them.* He gets amazing performance out of them.

[@jameshisself9324]

So cool that you got a bigger lathe! You've done amazing things with that little one, beyond what most could have. I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do with this one! A tip- I recently picked up a 9x32 to extend my turning capabilities much like you have, and after reviewing a lot of video advice and tearing into mine I can say this- the best advice I found was to do a full teardown and clean and set it up before even first cuts. There is so much grinding dust and casting sand left in these that the spindle bearings and other components (just as you found in your chuck) will wear prematurely. Mine is resting gently on it's new bench until I complete the rebuild. 😆

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

Excellent video. I have an AL350B, B for belt drive, and it’s served me well. It had wear and play in it when I purchased it from a mechanical workshop years ago but I’ve learnt to account for that. It was made in 1989 so it doesn’t have all the safety features but honestly they’re a bit of a pain in the arse. Like you, I would remove the chuck guard. The first thing we were taught back in high school, 1976, was to always remove the chuck key and that rule has served me well, touch wood. Nothing like a high velocity chuck key hitting you in the face to remind you. A couple of years ago the motor on my lathe let the smoke out, literally. After chasing around for a replacement (eBay) I couldn’t find another one that would fit so I rang Hare & Forbes / Machinery Warehouse. They explained that the motor has a non standard mount and the output shaft was longer. They also said they had a replacement for mine but it was slightly different, my motor was 1hp but the replacement was 2hp otherwise it was identical. I think it was around $450 delivered and I couldn’t get my credit card out quick enough. I figured that if I get another 30 years out of the new motor then I’m getting excellent value for money and it will see me out. I also felt the backup service from Hare & Forbes was pretty amazing too. Cheers, Stuart. Canberra.

[@thefahj-122]

I would pull the compound, cross slide and carriage/saddle apart and clean/deburr everything. I'd run the machine through the whole gear range running 10-15 minutes at each setting. Then drain and flush the gearbox and replace with fresh gear oil. The same grit you found in the chuck; you will find in the gearbox. Good luck with the new lathe!

[@andrew051968]

Very happy to see those carbide tools working as hard as they're supposed to.

[@laplantamichay]

i love the TOT energy this video has

[@antonius7851]

Got a lotta "This Old Tony" vibes from this video. Love it

[@p1kto]

thanks, its hard to find competent reviews on this lathe, very useful info

[@graemetho9805]

About time, all you need now is a bandsaw. I upgraded my mini lathe to an AL250g about 4 years ago. Changing chucks between 3 and 4 Jaw, is downright painful, Someone suggested drilling the bolt holes all the way through to the front and then counter bore the front holes, of course, you need to tap threads into the headstock faceplate, I added an additional face plate in between (4 jaw came with a suitable faceplate) to avoid playing with the one on the lathe, this new faceplate bolts on from the rear, but I have never had to remove it. If you get a 4 jaw, then I would highly recommend this mod, takes only a couple of minutes to change the chucks over instead of half an hour. I had to bore the centre of the new faceplate out to fit the MT4 taper, you can also use the threads to hold a bolt to power a dog to turn between centres,

[@PhotogNT]

I agree regarding bolt on chucks, when I brought my lathe a deal breaker for me the lathe had to have a quick change D1-4.

[@frodobaggins169]

You can't buy a lathe that nice in the US. My congratulations on your new lathe! You chose wisely. Good luck!

[@JaenEngineering]

Rather than cutting off the terminals for the chuck guard, you should have just swapped the terminals. Definitely looked like a SPDT switch so would have had NC (normally closed) contacts. Using those contacts would effectively short the terminals unless the switch was pressed.

[@artisanmakes]

Oh well, you miss these things when you’re in the moment

[@toddhazell925]

I would have just connected to 2 terminals together under the 1 screw and fitted the switch back in, so that if the lathe was sold at a leter date, you could switch it back to a stock setup and if the new owner wanted o change things, that they had no comeback if something happened because they modified it and not sold in that condition.

[@Silvergum]

I appreciate the subtle tribute to This Old Tony

[@zebby264]

I am a complete newbie to machining, having bought my first ever lathe about a month ago.... and it is a used Hafco AL-250G! I will definitely be taking a keen interest in your exploits with your new AL-260G from here on in. 👍

[@artisanmakes]

That is awesome. Pretty good lathe eh :)

[@kb135]

A Video with a HINT of This Old Tony :) *love it*

[@shadowcard6923]

There’s a few advantages to not having ground in surfaces on all non essentials, such as knowing non essential/ low tolerance for upgrades. Second the blue is to check engagement as those chucks have the engagement stack tolerance and if you’re getting good ridged contact, the drop of paint will swish and cover the teeth. Hope that helps

[@richharr]

Congrats! Definitely do a dro, I thought for years that it was not needed on a lathe until I got one. Makes everything so much easier. Also drop a magnet on a stick into the gear box, theres usually a ton of metal down there from the factory

[@clydebalcom3679]

Congratulations on your new acquisition.

[@williamsartain6757]

Congrats on the new lathe, I have the same model so I cannot wait to see how you upgrade yours

[@Festivejelly]

I invested in a Engine hoist for getting my equipment in my garage. Such a handy tool to have. I also made a DIY pallet mover out of some boards and trolley wheels.

[@jack5864]

I love how in the intro you didn't leave the chuck key in the chuck, nice touch.

[@jeffreyhallam5517]

Woooo! Nice upgrade. That’s a dapper lathe. I’m a tad jealous. I doubt you’ll regret the lack of continuous variability. Between the gear head on my mill and the variac electronic control on my lathe I much prefer the gear up or down option. Less fuss in the torque range. I’m super excited to see what you do with this machine.

[@sleepib]

You actually might want to change the oil somewhat soon, get rid of the debris from the initial wear-in. There might be a recommendation on that in the manual.

[@MiniLuv-1984]

There is one thing missing at my place to let me get a lathe - even a mini lathe. Space. Happy you got this, at least I can watch and dream.

[@TheUncleRuckus]

Ha I knew it, after the last video I knew you were getting a new lathe lol. Congrats! With a few upgrades like a DRO & quick change tool post along with a few others you're going to have a capable little lathe on your hands. 👍👍 Btw the blue paint was for checking the mesh of the gear, looks like they left it on so the owner could see that it was meshed properly from the factory. Those chucks need a lot of deburring and edge easing to make them touch safe, you could see most of the edges were sharp. I cringed in horror when you ran your finger along the Chuck jaw a lot of times that edge is sharp AF. Looking forward to see what you have planned. 👍

[@johnt372]

I was going to comment about you needing to step up and get a new lathe after watching you endlessly mod that mini lathe. Looks like a lot better machine.

[@bhein67]

Congrats on the new lathe. It looks like a pretty decent machine. Looking forward to seeing you making some chips with it! Cheers from Canada

[@garysgarage101]

Wow, very exciting! I was expecting you’d replace your hacksaw with a band saw by now lol. I really enjoy your channel. Keep it up.

[@Peter-sd4ht]

I bout one strait off the bat, so happy with mine, as will you with yours, keep your crosslide angle at 30 deg I've found it to be the most rigid, it prevented me from breaking parting Inserts lol, went through about $150 worth of inserts lol. Have fun and enjoy, hope to see more videos on the new machine.

[@NomadMakes]

Congrats on the new lathe mate! Looking forward to all the videos of you upgrading it :D Cheers.

[@kenman6721]

i can’t wait to see the upgrades. love the channel. great info and awesome explanations. can’t wait till you get a four jaw independent chuck. your run out will be nil. awesome new lathe.

[@andrew1977au]

Awesome bud, nice to see you progressing. Keep up the good work and great videos.

[@paulypaulypauly8011]

I have the exact same lathe. Since installing Clough42’s electronic lead screw, a VFD, 2.5hp motor, DRO, and quick change tool post, it’s a dream. Congratulations on the new unit. I’ll subscribe and look forward to seeing what you do to it over time. 😊

[@artisanmakes]

Fantastic. Just wondering why did you put on the electronic lead screw when it already had a gearbox. Cheers

[@artisanmakes]

Also great to know that it can easily handle a 2.5hp motor

[@paulypaulypauly8011]

@@artisanmakes hi. I wanted the convenience of easy selection of metric or imperial, and easy selection of variable feed rates. Also, as I had to do a fair bit of work to install the new motor and vfd, I wanted to integrate the ELS electronics at the same time. It was an incredible upgrade and the end result is tidy, and will be reliable. Having continuously variable speed is a godsend! I’d be happy to share details and pics if you like

[@paulypaulypauly8011]

@@artisanmakes yes … it actually might be 2 (it was a while ago when I ordered all the parts). The chuck can now spin at 2800 rpm which is better for carbide tooling. The original motor was pretty bad as far as quality goes, and lost some of its magic smoke a few times before I replaced it. As ,entioned elsewhere the motor mounts are not standard so some mods had to be made. The ELS & VFD project kept me busy while we were locked down here in Australia, and saved me from going mental I think :-) Also, I tried to make the job appear as ‘factory’ as I could and am very pleased with the results.

[@zvonibab]

Wishing you many safe and happy hours on your new lathe!

[@damngooddann]

Love to see it! Something about smol industrial equipment (or, almost-industrial) is just so fun and interesting. I work on Haas CNC Mills but a lathe like this is somehow more alluring to my crafty tendancies. Cheers!

[@uther10]

Congrats on the New Tool Day!

[@CraigsWorkshop]

You have no idea how happy the title of this video makes me. 😁

[@eideticgoone7035]

Maybe this is lathe heresy but could you use the MT4 dead center to aid in mounting the 3 jaw chuck. put the dead center in and slide the chuck over it. With the jaws slightly loose, rotate the bolts until they pass through the face-plate then get the nuts on. Tighten the jaws around the side of the dead center to center the chuck for the most part. Get the nuts tight enough then using a dead blow hammer as others have suggested, adjust the chuck on the bolts for best run-out. I suppose it requires the dead center to be long enough to be grabbed by the jaws, but it seems like a plausible way to mount the chuck without having to hold it in one hand and thread nuts with the other.

[@JETHO321]

I couldnt tell you the last time i hand fed a carriage that had power feed, except to sneak up to my zero. Thats pretty much obsolete.

[@esfsolomon]

Really enjoy your vids. I visited Sydney recently and saw a couple of Hafco lathes. Forgot to check if they had spindle indexers and carriage locks. I'm sure these will be upgrades you will be aiming for on your AL250.

[@nathanroberts3384]

I have an AL250. Highly recommend an oil change and cleanout of the gearbox first up. Mine had a lot of casting sand, grinding dust and burrs in it. It will extend the life of your lathe to do it fist up. Same for the carriage, it had no lubricant and was full of sand. Still a great machine for a hobby shop. I really enjoy you videos and look forward to many more on this new lathe. 🎉

[@artisanmakes]

Thanks for the tip. Couldn't find a huge amount of into on this lathe online before buying it. So ill probably line that up in the next week or two

[@Handleyman]

Excellent. You’ve just purchased the same lathe as me! Looks like you won’t be losing this subscriber any time soon!

[@rosewhite---]

looks like a proper lathe!

[@arminrichard1836]

as one of your german viewers i feel kind of obligated to ask if you thought of getting a PeWeTools-style quick change multifix toolpost? Both Abom76 and Clough42 have these running and i find it amazing that this just this one german guy making these.

[@artisanmakes]

I’d love to but I can’t pass up the opportunity to try and make some type of dovetail QCTP. Myself

[@colemine7008]

Congrats on the new toy!!

[@merkyworks]

Congratulations on the new lathe

[@Josh.Straughn]

I nearly spit my coffee laughing when you first revealed the contents of the crate. Very funny move mate. :) I believe the blue paint is gear marking dye it's used in automotives to check the mesh between gears, you mark part of the gear with the dye then spin the gears and see how much rubs off on the other gear to see if the contact between the teeth is within spec.

[@artisanmakes]

Of course. I should have realised that :) cheers

[@allthegearnoidea6752]

Good luck with the new lathe I’m sure you will enjoy it. I haven’t seen this model available here in the U.K. as yet

[@magicoddeffect]

This Old Tony would be proud of you for this one.

[@andrewguy9]

Love to see an imitation of This old Tony