Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero/Shogun/Triton Injector Pump Timing

[@androidemulator6952]

Thanks mate, very much appreciated for your video!!

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

No worries! Happy to help!

[@bigred6419]

Great video. Thank you. But i still don't quite understand. Still learning these injector pumps and have an issue with mine. My injector pump has a T timing mark on the cover to line it up. And a tooth marked on the sprocket of the 4m40t. The flange of the injector pump has a horizontal mark which i aligned with pump body. So why do we measure the 1 mm lift and rotate the pump if the marks are aligned? Shouldn't it all be the same if the timing marks are good? You really got me thinking hard about this. I also didn't quite get rotating pump with dial gauge 4 times. Do you mean rotate the crankshaft twice to return to tdc? Apologies if my questions sound funny. Trying to understand it better. Plus my self rebuilt injector pump just not working. Delivers fuel and engine runs but won't rev properly and dies on rev. i haven't put a dial gauge on it but this might reveal something?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Sounds like it hasn't been timed or rebuilt correctly. You need specific knowledge and calibration equipment to rebuild those pumps. The line on the pump body is just to get it in the ball park. The only time i would ever put a pump back on without timing it is if i literally was removing it to replace a seal or something, but then i would make my own mark there and set it to that.

[@Getriebeschrauber]

hello, thank you for your video! the 1mm movement that the plung should make with a rotation to 12 degrees, does this value apply to a turbo engine or to a non-turbo engine? Greetings from Germany

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Guten tag!! What part of Germany are you from?The vehicle in this video is a turbo model.

[@Getriebeschrauber]

@ ​​⁠ i am from Bavaria. I wanted to adjust my injection pump on my Pajero at the weekend, but when I turn the crankshaft to 12 degrees I can only get 0.8mm stroke of the plung. Even if I turn the injection pump a little further to get more stroke, I only ever get a maximum stroke of 0.8mm…..

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

@@Getriebeschrauber Awesome stuff! I visited Bavaria back in 2010, stayed with some friends in Kempten, what part of Bavaria are you in? As for the timing issue, it sounds like you might be a tooth out on you timing gears.

[@Getriebeschrauber]

@@wilddonkeyadventures I come from northern Bavaria, Franconia, near Nuremberg. Where do you actually come from, Australia? I just bought the Pajero, but it didn't run properly because the injection pump was apparently adjusted. The previous owner had the injection pump sealed in a workshop and it seemed to have been installed incorrectly.... In the meantime I have reinstalled the pump and started the engine, but now it is even worse than before, the engine no longer runs at all, almost no longer starts and there is a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust...

[@Getriebeschrauber]

I have now bought a new dial gauge, the old one I had was too inaccurate and always had a different zero point... I will now adjust the tappet stroke again to 1mm at an angle of 12 degrees on the crankshaft. I hope it works this time

[@nothinglike1586]

Great videos! Got myself a '95 Pajero with the 4m40 and love it thus far, but once overnight temps started dropping rough starts and stalling in the first few minutes of operation started happening. Can the front shaft seal be replaced without taking the whole pump out, i.e. without the need to time the pump after?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

I would say most likely it's your glow plugs that are playing up. 4M40's eat glow plugs for breakfast! But there is a way you can tell if your front pump seal is leaking, and that's just by checking the oil level. If it's increasing, then the pump is leaking. Unfortunately for this particular pump you will need to remove it, as the drive gear is in the way of the seal.

[@nothinglike1586]

@@wilddonkeyadventures Bought it last summer (July) and when overnight temps dropped below 10C symptoms started and are worse with lower temps: starts immediately, but 'coughing', blowing white smoke and difficulty keeping idle, sometimes stalling at idle a

[@procrastinator1727]

@@nothinglike1586 Hey just came across this I know it's a year ago but thought worth mentioning in case others with similar symptoms see this -- those symptoms could very well just be leaky injectors -- which is a much easier/quicker fix as opposed to front shaft seal or pump rebuild. My brothers Delica had almost identical symptoms... on inspection I immediately noticed one of the injectors was clearly leaking out top of the port as there was wet gunk all over. Removed all the injectors, cleaned them up, cleaned port holes, put new copper washer seals in -- and after reconnecting everything and properly torqueing -- it started up first time without any smoke and ran so much better. That's without overhauling the injector nozzles or anything.

[@nothinglike1586]

@@procrastinator1727 hey, thanks for the tip! Luckily I am a procrastinator and am only now getting ready to tackle the issue (once I find a used steering column 😬). Will make sure about the injectors first!

[@procrastinator1727]

@@nothinglike1586 Awesome -- I have pretty high hopes it'll be your injectors too. It is probably well worth putting in a new set or getting yours rebuilt/overhauled with new nozzles, cleaned, and properly re-calibrated. I'm in the process of ordering everything needed to do the overhaul myself... but from what I hear a new or overhauled set of injectors can be light/day difference in the engine's performance. Better power, fuel economy, far less vibration, etc. Something that really does need to be done more frequently than most people realize -- which is why I'm getting a cheap nozzle tester and ultrasonic cleaner to be able to service injectors myself.

[@vincentobrien1628]

Hi Wild Donkey, Towards the end where the dial has gone past 0 to the 1.3 mark , what are turning to get it set back onto 0. And the pump doesn’t need to be removed to make sure it’s set on T (Turbo) using this method. Hope that all makes sense. Thanks Vin

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Hey mate. You need to turn the actual pump itself. There's 2 nuts on the pump flange and one bolt at the rear of the pump on a bracket. They need to be loosened. You don't need to undo them too much or you could throw out the dial gauge reading. And don't loosen them unless you're set at TDC.

[@seancoyne2590]

If you turn engine rong way will it damage tensener always

[@stageworker23]

Hi I had my M4 M40 Delica fuel pump replaced ever since it's been rattly and a bit blow backie it's starts straight away but it sound awful 😖 could this but the issue because it never sounded like this before and all what was done was the ejector pump replaced ?

[@stageworker23]

It's just so rattly but got lots of power still 🤔

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Could be, but the Delicas can be a bit tricky with their tuning. Especially if it has an electronic injector pump. One of my mates had one and we couldn't get rid of the smoke. Tried everything. In the end he just lived with it. LoL

[@stageworker23]

@@wilddonkeyadventures thanks for getting back 🙏 it's a 94 model a bit of a dinosaur not much electronics in at all I'll give this ago try it by ear as I've not got the right tool😆

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

@@stageworker23 Just be careful you don't go too far. What i suggest also, is to scratch a mark on the pump flange and on the motor just in case you need to reset it at any point. Also, the timing marks on the harmonic balancer can sometimes move giving an incorrect reading.

[@stageworker23]

@@wilddonkeyadventures cheers dude 👍

[@AndrewLander-p5u]

Great informative video, many thanks. Having recently replaced my rebuilt diesel pump my L400 is running but quite noisy - I think the timing is slightly too advanced. So I need to adjust the timing again. Two questions... Did you find access to the left hand pump adjustment nut difficult..? Can't even see it let alone try and get a socket on it, and the crankshaft harmonic balancer pulley tdc mark - where is it!? (The pulley is only a few months old) Thanks in advance for your help - great video!

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Re you talking about the nut on the engine side? It's a tricky one to get to, i usually use a couple of extensions to get to it and then leave the socket on the nut while i'm adjusting it so you don't have to find it again. As for the mark on the pulley, it should be on there, and the corresponding engine marks are on the drivers side of the engine on the timing cover.

[@AndrewLander-p5u]

@@wilddonkeyadventures Thanks for your reply mate - will let you know how I get on! Thanks again for a great informative video.

[@ismailalmagrhi5834]

Hi.. I am facing a problem with my Pajero 2.8 and I hope you can help me.. After I removed the diesel pump to replace a rubber ring in the upper part of the pump after the diesel was coming out from there.. But after installing the engine it makes a sound like a buzzing, a knocking sound only when accelerating.. But when idling everything is fine.. I hope you can help me solve this problem and thank you.... (I can send an audio clip if you like)

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Quite possible that your injector pump is not timed correctly.

[@ismailalmagrhi5834]

@@wilddonkeyadventures It seems that it is indeed so... Thank you very much for the reply.

[@brucebennett-w3j]

hi, great info. do you know where I can get a timing tool like the one you used in this video?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

I bought mine from a place called Diesel Distributors. You can also buy them online. Just make sure you get a decent quality one...

[@frederickarp7911]

Where do you buy the dial tool and clamp?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

The dial gauge is available at pretty much any decent tool shop or online. The timing tool can be purchased either from a diesel parts supplier, i used Diesel Distributors in Australia, or again you can find them online. You would be searching for a VE Injector pump timing tool. Don't skimp on these as they are a precision instrument, so it's better to spend a bit more and get a good quality one. Cheaper ones will move around altering the reading.

[@frederickarp7911]

Enjoyed the video. Thank you.

[@markobrien868]

Is it possible to install a fuel pump say one tooth out either side and still have 4m40 still start and run.

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Yes but it won't run well..

[@kellynkarr6270]

Have you seen a 4m40 damaged from turning it backwards slowly? I am curious how it damages the tension. Thanks!

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

I haven't personally seen it. But every repair manual says not to do it or it can destroy the tensioner. I'm not sure whether that happens straight away, or whether it happens over a short period of time, maybe it overloads the tensioner and it breaks when the engine starts. Either way, it's one of those components i don't want to take any chances with. LoL

[@kellynkarr6270]

@@wilddonkeyadventures i hear you, haha. Thanks for the response.

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

@@kellynkarr6270 No worries!

[@kellynkarr6270]

@@wilddonkeyadventures Did you observe any lift at 0 degrees tdc? If not, approximately when did you start to see lift on the dial? Cheers and thanks!

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

@@kellynkarr6270 Can't remember that one unfortunately. Sorry mate.

[@AngusMaclean-k1o]

Great video mate. My question is this.. Do you need to time the fuel pump if you are removing it and refitting it even when you have everything on the marks ? I have an oil leak thats somewhere in the area between the pump and the engine block . I'm hoping its one of the seals on the pump and not leaking from the timing gear to block area. Very difficult to tell at this stage . Thanks , Angus

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Thanks mate! As long as you line up the mark on the gear (crucial) you can scratch a mark where the pump body lines up with the flange. Then it will be where it was when you removed it. This is another video i did about the pump removal which shows what i mean. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpfMi5Wqj7CbY80 The leak might be coming from the big O ring between the pump and the mounting flange. It also could have happened if the mounting nuts came loose (which is what happened to me LoL)

[@AngusMaclean-k1o]

@@wilddonkeyadventures Thanks for getting back to me. I have watched the other video as well, it explains everything very well. Im going to start on dismantling everything to find this bloody leak. Have you every seen an oil leak from the timing chain gear housing?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

@@AngusMaclean-k1o Yes i definitely have. That's actually why i removed my pump, lost the retaining nuts and the pump was pretty much held in place by the fuel lines and the rear bracket. Oil was pouring out!

[@AngusMaclean-k1o]

@@wilddonkeyadventures I have now removed the pump . I lined up the marks on the crank at 0 degrees. I removed everything else in my way and then the fuel pump. I was expecting to see the tooth with the mark to be up at the "T" mark on the pump flange but it was about 90 degrees away, is this right? When refitting, will I bring it around to the mark and refits you have in the video ? Thanks

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

@@AngusMaclean-k1o Yeah the timing could still be out. Sometimes the outer part of the crank pulley can move. Best way to check is to look at the marks on the gears, or remove the valve cover and have a look at the cam timing from there.

[@Zzzz-nl3hx]

Can you please explain bit more about this turning engine on 4 steps ? Is it not enough to put engine on tdc and start to adjust pump ?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

No, that's not how it works unfortunately. It has to be set at the proper timing mark. If you set it at top dead centre, fuel will be injected too early and you will get diesel knock. As for the 4 steps, you need to zero the gauge when the needle stops moving. This happens 4 times in one revolution (6 times for a 6 cylinder etc). So once the needle stops moving the fourth time, it means the engine is in position to set the pump timing, so now you zero the gauge.

[@Zzzz-nl3hx]

@@wilddonkeyadventures Thanks for quick response. My English is not that good but hope that I understand correctly , so we begin with inserted tool and engine at tdc than if I understand correctly we turn clockwise over first compression, second, third and after engine pass fourth compression than engine is ready for correct timing and than we put gauge on zero , am I correct?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

@@Zzzz-nl3hx Yes, but watch the gauge and turn the motor slowly. You count the amount of times the needle stops moving, then zero it the fourth time it stops moving as shown in the video.

[@Zzzz-nl3hx]

@@wilddonkeyadventures Thanks a lot. Right now I’m waiting for tool/gauge I’ve ordered it from eBay. I have old pajero 1998 2.5 tdi ( timing belt engine , not chain) and I recently replaced fuel pump due to leaking on previous one, I installed used one , car runs but no power and will not idle , I have to hold continuously on gas pedal to keep car running . So when I receive that tool will try to adjust , hopefully I will do it correctly if not than I will have to send you few more questions 😀, hope you will help me. Thanks anyway. P.S. the pump I installed is 100% ok because it has been taken from totally running engine.

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

@@Zzzz-nl3hx That's not a common rail pump is it?

[@rca9297]

Hey man, do you have an idea where is p0182 located in pajero sport? Hihly appreciated man.

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Hey mate, no sorry i haven't worked on Pajero Sport. According to Google P0182 is an error code relating to the fuel temperature sensor, as to where it's located on your car, i wouldn't know.

[@markhogan3417]

Where can/do you get the timing tool from?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

Hi there, i got it from a place called Diesel Distributors. It's called a VE pump timing tool. You can buy them online as well.

[@machielnel934]

Hi. I have the later 4M41 3.2 DID engine. Is the principle the same on that engine?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

No you need to set it a different way, it's a different type of pump unfortunately.

[@raymondnuma9732]

Hey mate, first of all thank you so much for that. That was very informative and clear. I've been always looking for a detailed explanation of injector pump settings and came across this. However I just have two questions. I have a second hand pajero with an engine from another pajero of which I'm not sure of. 1. Will that affect my crankshaft reading for TDC? Because it seems like when the Camshaft is on timing, the crankshaft is about 10° BTDC. 2. How do I find my TDC without having to rely on the crankshaft mark 0?

[@wilddonkeyadventures]

As far as the engine from the other Pajero it should be ok, as for finding TDC without the crank pulley, that's a bit more tricky. You'll have to take the valve cover off and check that way. Then put a mark on the crank pulley.

[@tegowicz]

You have any photos how is the timming set under the valve cover on the hexagonal shaft?

[@paulyeomans-eo7zk]

The best video I have ever seen on the timing you explained the degrees after tdc which is what I was struggling with the best paul

[@Nibiruranch]

If I could put this on my n22a2 I'd be happy