Mitsubishi Triton 4D56 CRD Turbo Replacement MiracleMAX

[@markgrocott5064]

Hi Max great video but you skipped the most important part,the actual removal of the old turbo??

[@MiracleMAX]

I did show what needed to be done at this point in the video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZqmqGiDbLSXqKc

[@eng-izzabualrob3576]

what is the good boost reading at 2500 rpm 3000 rpm in mitsubishi Triton 2008

[@MiracleMAX]

It would be best to check manufacturers' specifications for that model.

[@luckyja1]

Hi max did you take off the whole manifold to put the new turbo on, or, how did you get those rusty tight 6x14 mil nuts and bolts off, without taking it off, there so tight, how did you do that, brought force, special tool? thanks

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey luckyja1, Lubrication and patience. Have you tried to tighten the bolts slightly first? They should just move a fraction and then you can undo them. I did it without removing the manifold. You can also add a pipe onto the end of the spanner to get greater leverage. Last resort, you can use heat to loosen them. Hope you get the job done ok. 😉

[@bearnecessiteespolio5359]

at 13:55 you mention another video about cleaning the intake, and I have searched for it but cant find it. Can you possibly link me up please?

[@MiracleMAX]

In this video, I just did a intake spray clean. That being said, I recommend that a full intake clean be done by using ultrasonic cleaning or walnut blasting that can be done without removing the intake manifold. I suggest that the spray should be just used for maintenance, not to try and repair an issue. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJ2oo3qInbd5g6M

[@lisawilliams8312]

Max can you plz tell me how the turbo is going on this vehicle and was it worth buying? Also can u plz tell me how much the turbo set you back at the time?

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Lisa, The vehicle was sold some time later (420,000 Km) with no turbo problems. Keep in mind that a lot of turbo faults are as a result of poor lubrication. The link is listed in the description above. I can't remember the cost at the time, but I'm sure the costing of the turbos is listed on the site. I was happy with the price and service provided by this site and would use them again. Just make sure you follow the instructions provided during installation - super important! If you are interested in a great training course on turbos, have a look at the Garrett training site. www.garrettmotion.com/turbo-replacement/installer-connect/ I hope that helps MiracleMAX

[@DeltaBravo1234]

bloody legend thanks mate top vid cheers

[@MiracleMAX]

You are welcome. I have quite a few Triton videos on the channel that might interest you. 😉

[@olamabambi4193]

Very interesting. Thanks Max another great video.

[@MiracleMAX]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@rahrah8076]

I like that g-scan scan tool..the g-scan 2 looks awesome as well..has a lab scope on it..g-scan 3 is very expensive

[@MiracleMAX]

Unfortunately, the GScan 1 is no longer supported. You can get scopes as options on all the GScans. I love 'em! I must admit that you can't beat a stand alone scope. I'm saving up for a Pico at the moment. Thanks for your comments MiracleMAX

[@rahrah8076]

MiracleMAX no you can’t beat a stand alone scope but having bidirectional scan tool/multimeter/labscope all in one scan tool is the way every scan tool should be made..just like the snap on verus d12 pro is..I’ve only seen snap on and g-scan with that capability..wish autel would make one..pico is damn expensive but a very good scope..I just subscribed to you and watching all you’re videos..You have great content

[@MiracleMAX]

@@rahrah8076 You are right RAHRAH807 , there are very few good all round scopes that provide bidirectional options as well as scope features. I only suggest the Pico because a scan tool just can't give the sample rate needed to see some 'glitches' when you are diagnosing intermittent faults. That being said, if you can get something like that with all the goodies attached, you are well on the way to having an excellent diagnostic gizmo for your toolkit.

[@niclucas4505]

Hi Max, I am in the same boat here, just bought a ML with leaking turbo and purchased a similar TC as what you have. This is my first time doing a job like this ( im not a mechanic but have a fair comprehension ) Is there anything that would be difficult to do for this in terms of a 'novice' working on it... I have the truck semi pulled apart at the moment giving everything a good go over and need to do this myself due to covid lock downs..

[@MiracleMAX]

Honestly Nic, the process of fitting a turbo is not that hard - it's the preparation before you start the engine for the first time that is the crucial part. I can't stress enough the importance of doing what a reputable turbo supplier has as an installation checklist. It's not a bad idea to replace the oil feed line as well as the return to sump line. These are vital for not only lubrication of the turbo, but also keeping the pressures equal in the lubrication system. this is necessary for the bearings as well as the thrust washer to operate correctly. This keeps the oil where it belongs and not in the intake or exhaust. Check that you have oil up to the feed line. PRIME THE TURBO! Run oil through the oil feed section of the turbo. This must be done if you want your turbo to last more than one day. If yours is also cooled using coolant, make sure that you have clean coolant and coolant running though the system before you start the engine. What you do before you start the engine will in a large way dictate how much life you get out of your new turbo. Make sure you have repaired the cause of the turbo failure. Here is a suggested link: www.garrettmotion.com/news/newsroom/article/garrett-turbocharger-installation-guide-steps-to-proper-turbo-installation/ MiracleMAX

[@niclucas4505]

@@MiracleMAX Thanks Max, Had a go at it yesterday, Yes agree with you that its not too difficult, just a tight working space and reluctant bolts wanting to come off! I should have it off today, i cant access the rear coolant nut with what tools I have and am getting a 21mm spanner today off a mate.. Interesting that the current turbo has no play in the front fan. At this stage the amount of oil in the pipe down to the intercooler was pretty significant and there has been a lot of build up of oil sludge on the intercooler and body area around it suggesting that the pipe may not have been on tight?? I have cleaned down the whole area and inspected the pipe for any signs of damage and cannot find any.. Obviously when the new turbo goes on and all the bits are re-fitted I'll make sure all the pipes are on securely to prevent air leaks / pressure loss thru the system but should I be checking anything else out? appreciate your help, this is all very new to me!

[@MiracleMAX]

@@niclucas4505 If there is oil build up around the intercooler, make sure you check for leaks. These do split & fail

[@niclucas4505]

@@MiracleMAX What would you suggest the best way? Fill with water?

[@MiracleMAX]

@@niclucas4505 Pressurise with regulated air, maybe 20 psi, then use soapy water in a spray bottle. Better still, a smoke machine if you have one.

[@paulschiavone4740]

👍

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Paul, I hope the video helped 😉