Mix Ratio For Good Concrete

A common mix ratio for good concrete is 1-2-4. So what exactly is a 1-2-4 concrete mix? It's quite simple - one part portland cement, two parts sand, and four parts gravel, along with just enough water to make a damp mixture and the minimum amount to reach a good viscosity for placement. If too much water is added to the mix, the finished strength of the concrete will be compromised and weakened.
It does not matter what kind of measuring device you use for each "part" of the mix - whether you use a spoon, shovel, bucket or wheelbarrow - as long as you use the same thing to measure each portion, you will be able to make good concrete for your projects.
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[@a0flj0]

It isn't that simple. It depends on the size of the gravel. Sometimes you use multiple sorts of gravel, of different sizes. Essentially, you need to use a mix where the amount of slury resulting from mizing water and cement is enough to coat all sand and gravel particles completely (but not more than that). Computing the ratios is complex, and by necessity imprecise, because gravel and sand grains are naturally not uniform in shape, which is why some experimentation is also needed. Therefore, different countries have developed different recipes for concrete, prescribing the quantities of cement, sand, different grades of gravel and water that go into mixes destined for different kinds of works - it makes no sense to use the same grade of concrete in a walkway and in a high-rise building's basement. Those recipes differ slightly, from one place to another, because the kind of aggregate (sand and gravel) that's available also differs, and the recipes take those differences into account. What's damaging for concrete is to make it too wet. Once it sets, the water that isn't needed to react chemically with the cement to bind sand and pebbles together evaporates and leaves microscopic empty spaces behind. Those empty spaces weaken concrete. What also makes concrete weak is too much cement. Concrete's strength doesn't în fact come from cement. Cement is just a rather soft binder between much harder particles. The hardness and strength of concrete comes from the stones and sand particles that lock the stones in place. You can easily test this by creating a small block made solely of cement and water - it will turn out brittle and weak. One more important thing for concrete is the kind of sand that you use. Desert sand, or sand that was used for years in a sandbox or on some walkway, or beach sand, is not good for concrete. That sand was rolled around by wind and other forces for a very long time, and its particles have lost any sharp edges. Sharp edges on the grains of sand and gravel used in concrete are very important for concrete's strength. Without those sharp edges , there's no interlocking. Without interlocking, concrete's strength relies mainly on the binding properties of cement, which, as discussed above, is a rather weak material on its own.

[@JoshBeards]

3:2:1 3 parts coarse aggregate 2 parts fine aggregate 1 part Portland cement Water to cement ratio of ~0.4 is optimal. Measured by weight, not by volume. Measuring by volume creates "bulking." Concrete is still made that way with that very ancient ratio. The modern ratio may vary slightly as 3.1:1.9:1, but it's still the same general ratio. It only varies slightly today because we've developed concretes more suited for their intended purpose. A foundation concrete can have more coarse aggregate. An exposed decorative surface may have less coarse aggregate and more fine aggregate to help with finishing the surface.

[@melvinmantis]

I’m so glad that you are taking the time to create these videos. I’ve spent almost 3 years researching, learning, creating, failing, experimenting etc in an attempt to take my creative ability and a bag of concrete or what have you and successfully make a small business that can pay the bills, and perhaps more. An actual chance to live a lifestyle that is better suited for me. I’m still working on this idea and I’m now six months, unemployed, and continue to put forth a full time effort towards this possibility. At first glance these videos told me plenty of the things that I feel I’d already managed to learn over the last couple of years, but as I continue to watch and learn from you a lot of the knowledge you possess is remarkable and humbling. I feel that all of these fundamentals and “instructions” are so beneficial. You truly touch base with so many of the areas in which I’ve had to self teach and learn from others, undoubtably, providing me with a combination of good and bad advice and so forth. So I am really & truly grateful for this information and look forward to viewing all of the videos that you are making. My only regret is that I couldn’t or didn’t find a substantial amount of resources of this caliber three years ago. Your videos are direct, full of proper information in detail and put together wonderfully. I commend you and hope others take notice and benefit from your channel and your knowledge of these topics in a way that I was not able. My apologies for the novel. I am going to get back to watching your videos and re/strengthening my personal knowledge. To better improve my small business plan and my concrete products. Cheers and thanks. 😊

[@creatingconcrete]

Thank you and good luck with your concrete projects!

[@melvinmantis]

I hope that my edit gives you a better idea of my initial intention from this comment and comes off less condescending/arrogant.

[@creatingconcrete]

I appreciate the effort made with your comment and do not find any part condescending or arrogant. Good luck with your business ideas!

[@enirigby6254]

OMG Finally someone made this cement ratio easy! Thank you so much!

[@odiesclips7621]

Are you saying: 1 part Portland 2 parts sand 4 parts gravel?? If so, the visual container sizes are confusing? Thanks.

[@robertbiswanger3841]

I was always told 1-2-3 as well. As to water, you hear the term pour/poured concrete all tbe time. Concentrate is placed not "poured", if you can pour concrete its crap. Wet enough to form a tight ball when squeezed and hold shape. Any wetter and you lose strength.

[@jamiebishop9512]

Since when did Seth Rogen become so helpful?!

[@creatingconcrete]

of all the people I have heard me compared to I am quite certain nobody has ever made this comparison before!

[@joshlarson281]

On a bag of Portland cement it says the mix should be 1:2:3 not 1:2:4. Why is there an extra scoop of gravel in your mix?

[@The.Destroyer.Of.The.Worlds]

Thank you for these videos. Very well explained

[@asadsaeed4223]

Thanks for the wonderful video n very clear explanation, emphasizing on the important points, please would you like to say something about the size of gravel as it comes in various sizes for different application. Anything regarding the strength and economy factor, as you are an experienced and knowledgeable man. Regards

[@relardztv605]

Waoowh super amazing good job because of your vlog tutorial I got some knowledge from you about concrete mixer

[@arendvanderbliek6359]

A better mix ratio for concrete is: 1:2:3 according to the best bridge builders in the world, The Dutch Construction way and recomendations

[@JoshBeards]

We typically say 3:2:1 not 1:2:3.

[@malburian]

If you pour a 15-20 cm thick slab, do you recommend the same ratio?

[@malburian]

If you pour a 15-20 cm thick slab, do you recommend the same ratio?

[@johnterpack3940]

Couple questions: I just watched a video on a plasticizer. Now I'm curious as to the effect those have on strength. Because the change in viscosity from adding the plasticizer was insane. Do you know if that impacts the final strength? Also, does the sand component make a difference? I'd like to use pumice and/or pearlite for different cosmetic effects in countertops. But would that hurt the strength of the concrete relative to ordinary sand? Assuming, of course, a standard 1-2-4 mix with minimal water. My understanding is that the sand is basically just a lattice for the cement and so shouldn't matter much.

[@creatingconcrete]

The plasticizer should not affect the finished strength even though it makes very watery concrete. The type of sand matters. Shape and strength most importantly, but yes you can definitely explore alternative sand options with some measure of success. I feel like some experiments would be good before pouring a full countertop though.

[@GerardDonnelly-yx1bh]

Thank you so much for this info. Great presentation, intelligent and informative. Many thanks. Regards Gerry.

[@darylaguirre781]

i taught the more cement the better, Im glad that I saw this..

[@creatingconcrete]

Except for cost. the more cement, the more expensive the mix design

[@jakefriesenjake]

Ok, what happens with 2 cement, 2 sand, and 4 gravel? ​@@creatingconcrete

[@sharonglazier2552]

I have 2 questions: For the ratio 1-2-4 what would be an approximate water amount? Second question Will you show us how to make air crete?

[@creatingconcrete]

Yes I have filmed some aircrete videos already so you should see them coming out on this channel soon. The amount of water you need depends on how damp the sand is. And then from batch to batch the water changes as well. The best thing you can do is experiment and make the first batch slowly.

[@telestruct]

Thanks for your informative video. Obviously you are using weight -based proportion of 1:2:4, my question is what is the same volume-based proportion would be to get same strength. Thank you

[@creatingconcrete]

This is volume based

[@JoshBeards]

​@@creatingconcrete Never mix volume based. It creates bulking. Mix concrete by weight.

[@thangmeu]

1:2:4 Sir. Thank you!

[@ChaosForLunch]

thanks ... what are the ratios for concrete for board formed concrete ... where you want the texture of the grain to cast in concrete ?

[@bambom135]

I LOVE YOU SO MUCH YOU HELPED ME SO MUCH ❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@kuri5771]

The way you've demonstrated with them containers looks like 2 cement 1 sand and 2 aggregate?

[@-maccabee]

how do you make that buttery looking concrete in your intro?

[@FirstNameLastName-okayyoutube]

So what's the ratio of water. It is okay to use decimal points

[@coleshutika9521]

Do you ever use smoother river stone as opposed to gravel for aggregate ?

[@GrumpyAndCricket]

Great info! Love the intro!

[@creatingconcrete]

Thanks so much!

[@agomodern]

Another channel that does concrete statuary says one portland, one gravel, and 2 sand. That's a huge difference. I'm doing brutalist concrete sculptures and I'm finding that small details easily break off wherever there is gravel, so I'm trying to find a way to have strong concrete without gravel. What are some alternatives?

[@jakefriesenjake]

QUIKRETE sand topping Mix. Same 4000 psi like regular cheap concrete, with the heavy gravel

[@dylanholmes1985]

Thank you!

[@sybo10]

whats the best mix for outside driveway resurfacing in brownsville Texas, no freezing, super hot, so would you go Portland only or 1 part Portland 1 part sand, or what?

[@kk2ak14]

What happened with old 1-2-3 ?

[@joaquinperezperez2037]

For me...the best! With 42.5 cement very strong concrete. From Spain.

[@siriosstar4789]

Is "scratch " available at building supply stores ?

[@Enzo-eq5lr]

What kind of sand and gravel are best for mixing with concrete

[@creatingconcrete]

Commonly clear gravel and masonry sand or general construction sand.

[@garylcamp]

Excellent video. My question may be too basic but I don't want to guess. What is the ratio of Quickcrete to water via volume? Do I need to measure the weight of water from 6.5 quarts of water to 60lbs of Quickcreet as the instructions are in weight to quarts for the whole bag? I can't find any simple ratio like you give.

[@creatingconcrete]

You generally will not find water content ratio for any mixes other than super specialized mixes which require exact amount of water. For the average person it will be more of the question, how wet do you need the concrete? And the answer to that will determine how much water to add. Less is better than more, so you add water until you achieve the placement viscosity you need, and not a drop more. Measure how much you use the fist mix, and now you have some measure to get you close for your next mix

[@itsJoshW]

Straight to the point video, like it. This poses a question that I think you may be able to aid with as I cannot find much research on this (Or it's a bit outdated and based in older-internet forums, which I prefer to go to people I can verify actually know what they're discussing, verses anonymous person online, or classic mentality). I'm looking at making DIY pavers, specifically out of plastic forms from Amazon; These would be more akin to a small side-walk like pavers in a backyard you would find at Home Depot, except DIY. My question: Would it preferably be better to simply purchase the premix of of Type N or Type S Mortar Mix, or would I obtain better visual results from a custom mixture of Portand Cement / Sand / Gravel mixture? For basic background: The forms are 15"x15"x3", to simplify, it's also not a singular "slab" of this size, as each is broken up. And I have experience already with concrete work, however it's not particularly a job, it's more of a hobby and DIY improvements on my house. Thank you!

[@creatingconcrete]

type N and S are both masonry cement and not the right product for this application. You need portland cement, which is stronger. Masonry cement is for brick laying mortars. Portland cement is for structural mortars. 3 parts sand to 1 part portland cement would be a good mix. Of you can pay more and get pre bagged mixes but something like sand topping mix or mortar mix would be fine. These are both made with portland cement and not masonry cement.

[@itsJoshW]

@@creatingconcrete Awesome, thank you for this information and feedback. I appreciate that a lot!

[@pablolynch1152]

I'll try it

[@kenmwanzia5331]

Kindly tell me the best ratio for concrete posts for fencing. Thank you

[@nabiln656]

How much a volume of 1 liter of cured concrete does weigh?

[@brandonmonroe7050]

I mentioned it on another of your videos but this one is more appropriate really. I make decorative pavers with portland and sand 1:3 ratio and im wondering if I need a fortifying agent with that much sand.

[@creatingconcrete]

you definitely dont need any admixtures, but acrylic replacing 10% of the liquid content of the mix would probably enhance it.

[@alexanderchenf1]

My soil is clay. My regional temperature can get as hot as 100 degree in the summer and as cold as 14 degree in the winter. But these temperatures are rare. It mostly hover around 30 degree to 80 degree year round. With these conditions, I propose my house-front sidewalk to be 4,000 PSI concrete, 6 inch thick, reinforced by 3/8 inch fiberglass rebar. I have not even thought about water-cement-ratio, sand, stone or whatnot. Too much for my brain tonight. Maybe I should leave those to the contractor

[@creatingconcrete]

6" thick sidewalk with rebar in it is pretty seriously overkill for a sidewalk. But if you want to do it only one time, ever, that should do it. Plus you can park your car on it and it will not break then either.

[@alexanderchenf1]

@@creatingconcrete but for driveway, 6’’ thick with rebar is no longer overkill, right?

[@blueocean9305]

Steve, Austin TX is going through a nightmare of cracking concrete in pools. It's believed that it is due to the lack of, or the wrong class of flyash in the mix resulting in a condition called ASR. Please address this and how to avoid this mix problem. I expect to build a pool within the next couple of months.

[@sharonglazier2552]

Thanks a lot very helpful, waiting patiently for the air crete videos.

[@creatingconcrete]

Is there something in particular you are looking for about aircrete? I have made a few different videos (not released yet) but I am learning with it. Aircrete is not something I have worked with professionally. If I know more about what you are looking for I can try to release a video on that ahead of schedule. Cheers.

[@sharonglazier2552]

@@creatingconcrete I wanted to know if it has any insulation qualities, and if it would be any good in the -30*C where I live ? It is not -30 all the time but in the winter it can get that cold. Thanks

[@johnsullivan7628]

What did the Romans use??

[@johnanthony7635]

Hi, I am making a thin concrete cross in a mold and because it is very thin I would like to make a mixture for maximum strength. Would you recommend using straight Portland Cement with no sand and no gravel? Thank you.

[@creatingconcrete]

I would use 2 sharp sand to 1 portland cement with an acrylic latex additive replacing 25% of your water content. This will give you a good shot at being thin but still strong. If you need finer detail in the mix, drop to 1:1

[@riadhallani5886]

Thank you for your videos, i have a question, i am making a glass terrazzo table and i am going to use steel for reinforcement my question is should i add gravel with the glass in the mix or not?

[@creatingconcrete]

It is not needed. Gravel is to bulk up the yield for a given quantity of portland cement.

[@johnwebber8392]

hey brother great video i have a question i want to incorporate crushed glass .would that be in place of the sand component?

[@creatingconcrete]

Yes

[@paulkazjack]

How many parts of ballast to one cement?

[@RegalReflectionsYT]

❤Thank You ❤

[@NSDaishi]

I am trying to skip this step, which brand premix do you think comes closest to what you are aiming for?

[@creatingconcrete]

sand topping mix or mortar mix

[@creatingconcrete]

Unless you want concrete (with rocks) in which case any bag of pre mixed concrete will do.

[@shamrackle3712]

I'm making tealight holders (7 in one piece, 5 in another). I'm using white sand and white portland cement with 1/4" fiberglass bits (no rock). I have my ratio flipped to 2:1, portland to sand. I am already at the mixing point. My memory backfired. (I am not a tradesman, but a weekend dreamer.) Does the fiberglass act as a fudge-factor or should I expect this project to bomb?

[@creatingconcrete]

When you design a mix, the "1" component is always cement. Everything is measured by ratio to "1" cement. So in your case you have too much cement. It will still work, but it will be expensive as your cement ratio is too high. 1:1 should be plenty enough cement for something like this.

[@UsDiYoNa]

This may be a dumb question, but is quikrete usable for casting applications? Jw bc its already pre-mixed with the gravel and all

[@creatingconcrete]

Concrete is not ideal for casting. I like mortar mixes better .

[@kenmwanzia5331]

For every 50kgs of cement use 20 l of water

[@Enzo-eq5lr]

What if you were to just do an even ratio with sand, concrete, and gravel because gravel is more expensive

[@creatingconcrete]

it would work with slightly less overall yield, and possibly a slight loss of finished strength versus a more conventional mix design ratio

[@rm4305]

Are you using styrofoam and lath and tacs for your sculptures ?

[@creatingconcrete]

For the larger ones, yes.

[@cmichael2967]

But isn't the ratio depend on the psi (pressure) you want to achieve?

[@creatingconcrete]

Certainly! Concrete strength and mix design certainly is a science. Many people new to working with concrete just need a place to start and benefit from knowing what a basic, or good, concrete mix is. This is a very common general use mix design and a good starting point.

[@thangmeu]

How about mixing concrete to lay brick or block joints? Is it 1 portland cement to 3 sand?

[@creatingconcrete]

No you need a masonry cement to make mortar for block work. The reason is the portland cement is too strong and can damage the bricks during expansion and contraction. The masonry cement is less strong and made for brick and block applications.

[@ahmedkara8447]

Would the strength of my concrete be sufficient if I made it of a ratio 1:2:1

[@creatingconcrete]

I guess it would depend on your application. But it would likely be strong yes, but not much bulk to the yield with such a low gravel content.

[@carriemartin9400]

🚩why would Portland Cement just totally break into pieces the next day❓

[@creatingconcrete]

Not enough set up time most likely. Especially if it was not warm....after only one day the cement is going to be very weak still.

[@alkatebjas2088]

May I ask a favor? I have a big metal tank as furnace, and I use 600c degrees with, but I want to to coat it with liner of refractory cement (mortar or castable) with wire metal (mesh). so, what is a good kind of refractory cement ? and what’s a good ratio?

[@jimthomas1989]

I made a Forge , I used Cement, Sand , Clay cat litter , ceramic toilet , and actual fire brick , I took a hammer and busted the toilet and Fire brick , then mixed it all together , can withstand 5000° degrees Fahrenheit . So you do the math from 600 Celsius to 5000 Fahrenheit 😂

[@jimthomas1989]

600 degrees Celsius is only 1112 degrees Fahrenheit So I think 5000 ° degrees Fahrenheit would work . This must be cured ! Start a small fire and heat to 200° degrees Celsius for 3 hours Then increase the heat to 300° degrees Celsius for 3 hours Then 400° degrees Celsius Then 500 ° degrees Celsius Then 600° degrees Celsius Then as hot as you can stand it for 3 hours , Then let it cool slowly. Then check for cracks and damages

[@alkatebjas2088]

@@jimthomas1989 I got it, Thank you, sir

[@user-pv9in5tw8s]

Ok 1 2 4 but if water is so important then how much water?

[@jakefriesenjake]

Just enough to get it to flow how to want it. If it's a very intricate mold, and you can't get a shovel or something to push the concrete where you want, then you can add a plasticizer or flow control. This makes the mix thinner and then can easily fill your mold. If you add much water to your mix to get it to flow, once the water evaporates, it leaves little holes in your concrete. It's not as strong. Add only as much water as you need to get it wet and mixed. That is strong

[@JDeWittDIY]

Can you make a video about dry pour concrete?

[@creatingconcrete]

No need - I would never endorse dry pouring concrete. It is lazy workmanship with substandard results.

[@JDeWittDIY]

@@creatingconcrete In that case, I for one would welcome a video explaining why it's a bad idea and why the results are inferior. Thanks for all you hard work!

[@henryhull4456]

Few questions. I've made a mold out of urethane rubber and am planning on pouring concrete into it, but after reading the comment section it seems like you would recommend using mortar over concrete for casting? (my objects are the legs of a bed frame, so aiming for maximum strength here) Also would that be a 1:2 ration of cement and sand for mortar? Thank you for videos!!!

[@creatingconcrete]

Rarely is concrete used for casting just because of the rocks causing deficiencies with the finish. Mortar is definitely what I would recommend. 2: or 3:1 sand to cement. The addition of rocks (to make concrete) does not make the mix design stronger. It makes it more economy of yield. So its a little more money for the mortar mix but should give you better results. If strength is important you should be adding steel to the interior of the mold, ideally.

[@henryhull4456]

@@creatingconcrete Thank you so much, thats super helpful!

[@user-ss4kh6bz7g]

Pls is the ratio volume or weight based?

[@aminech6342]

Volume mate

[@aminech6342]

Doesn't matter if it's a table spoon or a shovel

[@sarahraja4069]

Haa

[@L3GHO5T]

5:1 A gravel to Portland is 👌

[@MarkATrombley]

I like your channel but hate wasting 20 seconds on the intro. If I just watched one of your videos it might be fine but I watch them all, which means I have seen that same intro dozens of times. Can you please just talk about the subject?

[@creatingconcrete]

thank you for your feedback

[@Sublimeshredder]

Tip: Hit the right arrow twice and it will Fast forward through the intro. All professional videos/channels have an introduction.

[@MarkATrombley]

@@Sublimeshredder Hardly. This Old Tony, Big Clive, most others don't. The intro is just used to fill out the watch time, it does nothing for the viewer.

[@chesshooligan1282]

@@Sublimeshredder And all intros in professional and non-professional channels are skipped, haha.